Bikes are easy to shift, and all modern shifters
work well. Here are the ones we like:
Bar-end shifters: Always
a good option. They’re
convenient, and easier than
thumb shifters if you have tiny
hands or weak fingers, but don’t
require either.
There are several models
available, with indexing, friction,
or both. It’s easy to mount
them as thumb-shifters, too.
Bar‑enders are always a good
pick. Bar-enders are never dumb.
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Brifters: If you feel too trad
using bar-end shifters on your
road bike, go for these. There’s
no friction option, but they
remove all skill from shifting, and
sometimes that’s just the ticket.
About half the Roadini builds
get brifters, and Mark here has
them on a bike or two, so we
respectfully refuse to dismiss
them like we did a few years ago.
Down-tubers: The ancient
tradition for road bikes, but on
our bikes, the higher handlebars
make you reach way down.
They’ll work, but it’s like
intentional inconvenience or
self-imposed abstinence. On the
other hand, down-tube shifters
are a good way to remove
shifting temptation.
Thumbies: Always good,
unless you have small hands or
weak fingers. Several models
available, all easy to use, and
you’ll take to them right away.
They’re great mounted near
the stem on drop bars, too. We
don’t assemble many bikes that
way, because people don’t like
to be pioneers.
Triggers: Like brifters, when
adjusted they guarantee perfect
shifts every time, and the levers
return to the same place after
every shift. If bar-end shifters
seem too weird to you and you
and/or your thumbs are too
small for thumbies, get these. A
trigger on the right, bar-end on
the left makes sense, too.
Drop Bars (two models)
Most riders like drops best when the top of the bar is
three to five inches higher than the saddle (if you need
them higher, you need a different bar). On our bikes
that height is no problem. We carry two models—the
Nitto “Noodle bar,” also known as the Mod. 177; and
the Nitto 151, also known as the Mod. 151. The photo
above is an amalgam. 5 1/2-inch drop.
Shifters: Bar-ends, brifters, downtubers, thumbies
up top. Brake levers: Road-style.
Choco Bar
Like the Albatross bar, but with a better next-to-the-
stem grip—like the flat part of a drop bar—and a
better forward grip, because the curvy part is flatter,
too. It comes back more, but doesn’t rise as much.
1-inch rise (or drop if you flip it).
Shifters: Inboard thumbies, bar-ends, triggers.
Brake levers: Mountain-style.
Albastache
An alternative to a drop bar, with much less drop
and a closer grip that doesn’t fold you over as much.
Road levers mount horizontally, so the full height of
the lever body rests comfortably under your hands.
If you find drop bars a little challenging but still want
the ergonomics and road bike brake levers, the
Albastache bar is the way to go. 1-inch drop.
Shifters: Bar-ends are perfect.
Brake levers: Road-style, but not “brifters.”
Bosco Bar
Has the most hand positions of any bar we offer,
most height, most comfort. It sweeps back a
lot, so it needs a longish top tube. Lifesaver,
backsaver, wunderbar! The best bar in the world
for making a too-small and too-long mountain
bike feel like heaven. Whopping 4-inch rise.
Shifters. Inboard thumbies, bar-ends, triggers.
Brake levers: Mountain-style.
(800) 345-3918 rivbike.com
Billie Bar
Like the nearly legendary Albatross bar, but with a full
second hand position, less rise and drop, a hair more
flare, and 3cm wider. Whether you’re starting fresh
or ditching your drops, this is the bar we recommend
first. Terrific handlebar! Billie was Will’s grandmother.
1-inch rise (or drop if you flip it).
Shifters: Inboard thumbies, bar-ends, triggers.
Brake levers: Mountain-style.
Wavie Bar
Good for off-road riding, especially if you’ve been riding
a straight bar and want something familiar but better.
The Wavie Bar feels better because it sweeps back
more. There’s a 40 percent chance that later in the year
we’ll get one with a 31.8mm bar clamp area, to fit lots
of modern macho mountain bike stems. All flat.
Shifters: Thumbies, triggers.
Brake levers: Mountain‑style.
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