Int. J. Adv. Sci. Eng.

Vol. 1 No. 3 56-63 (2015) 56 ISSN 2349 5359

UV Protection Finishes on Textile Fabrics

Usha Sayed*, Rina Tiwari, Prince Dabhi

Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology,
Institute of Chemical Technology, Nathalal Parekh Marg, Matunga, Mumbai-400019, India

ABSTRACT: Ultraviolet rays constitute a very low fraction in the solar spectrum but influence all living
organisms and their metabolisms and these radiations can cause a range of effects from simple tanning to highly
malignant skin cancers, if unprotected. This paper summarizes the interaction between ultraviolet radiation and
textile surfaces and reviews the recent researches focused on the subject. The relation between ultraviolet light
and structural and physical properties of textile materials have also been highlighted.

KEY WORDS: Ultraviolet rays, skin-cancer, UV-absorbers, UV-Protective Textiles

© 2014 mahendrapublications.com, All rights reserved

INTRODUCTION emissions are characterized by their wavelength, expressed

Exposure to minimal doses of sunlight is beneficial for
organisms, since it contributes to the development of the
bones and the assimilation of vitamins. However,
overexposure to the sun increases the risk of permanent
damage to the skin [1, 2]. UV radiation can lead to acute
and chronic reactions resulting in damage to skin such as
sunburn, acceleration of ageing including roughening,
blotches, sagging, wrinkles, squamous cells, basal cell cancer
and DNA damage. The risks posed by ultraviolet radiation
have become more dangerous in recent years [3-7]. Ozone
depletion in earth’s atmosphere occurs due to the release of
man-made fluorocarbons, in particular chlorofluorocarbons
(CFCs), has minimized the protection against the incoming
solar Ultraviolet Radiation (UVR). A decrease of one percent
in the thickness of the ozone layer would lead to 2-3 %
increase in skin cancer [8-9]. Among other protection
measures recommended by dermatologists such as avoiding
prolonged exposure on skin, wearing sunglasses, using
cosmetics equipped with sunscreen formulations, the use of
textile garments is one of the most important [9]. Clothing
has the ability to protect the skin from incident solar
radiations because the fabric from which it is made can
reflect, absorb and scatter solar wavelengths [10-11].
Protection properties of such textiles can be successfully
improved by the use of special auxiliaries which absorb light
in the UV-B and UV-A regions (290–400 nm). The UV-
blocking property of a fabric is enhanced when a dye,
pigment, delustrants, or ultraviolet absorber finish is
present that absorbs ultraviolet radiation and blocks its
transmission through a fabric to the skin [12].
UV RADIATION
The sun emits a range of energy known as the
electromagnetic spectrum. The various forms of energy, or
radiation, are classified according to wavelength. These
*Corresponding author
Email: Received: 10.12.2014
ushatxt@gmail.com Accepted: 20.02.2015
in nanometers (1 nm = 10-9 m). The radiations with shorter
wavelength are more energetic. Sunlight that reaches the
earth is composed of 66% of infrared light, 32% visible light
and 2% ultraviolet light [11, 13]. Ultraviolet light is defined
as electromagnetic radiation in the spectral region between
180 and 400 nm. The three categories of UV radiations are
UV-A, UV-B and UV-C [4, 11, 16-17].
Figure 1: The electromagnetic spectrum and wavelength band
[16-17]
• UV-A rays (320-400 nm) are the least powerful of the
UV rays, but they are present all year and can penetrate
windows and clouds. They penetrate more deeply into
the skin and contribute to premature aging of the skin
and skin cancers.
• UV-B rays (280-320 nm) are the most powerful and
potentially harmful form of radiation. It is the most
common cause of sunburn, aging, wrinkling and skin
cancer. UVB is particularly strong at the equator, at high
elevations or during the summer.
• UV-C rays (200-280 nm) are the shortest and the most
powerful of the UV rays. UV-C is the most likely to cause
cancer if it reaches skin. Most of the UV-C radiation is
absorbed by the ozone layer in our atmosphere.
The order of potency is UVC > UVB > UVA [15].
Relation between different UV radiations and response of
human skin towards those radiations is shown in table
below
UV PROTECTION OF TEXTILES FABRICS -
MECHANISM
Clothing has ability to protect the skin from incident solar
radiation because the fabric from which it is made can
reflect, absorb, transmit and scatter solar wavelengths.

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 Int. J. Adv. Sci. Eng.
Vol. 1 No. 3 56-63 (2015)
Figure 2: Radiation in contact with a textile surface [16]
Table 1: Response of human skin to UV Radiation [11]
Protective clothing should have as high UV ray reflecting
and/or absorbing properties as possible so that it prevents
UV rays from reaching the skin and threatening the human
body. The key property for determining the quality of
clothing protection is its transmittance. The transmittance of
UV rays through textile material is defined as the ratio of the
total amount of incidental UV rays in a defined wavelength
range to the amount of transmitted UV rays reaching the
skin [18].
Several different effects occur when UV radiation hits a
textile surface, causing the UV radiation to be broken down
into several components. Part of the radiation is reflected at
the boundaries of the textile surface; another part is
absorbed when it penetrates the sample, that is, it is
converted to a different energy form. Yet another part of the
radiation travels through the fabric and reaches the skin;
this part is referred to as the “transmission” [18-19].
The relative amounts of radiation reflected, absorbed or
transmitted depend on many factors, including the fibre
type, the fibre surface smoothness, the fabric cover factor
(the fraction of the surface area of the fabric covered by
yarns) and the presence or absence of fibre delustrants, dyes
and UV stabilizers such as UV absorbers, quenchers and
HALs [11].
The most likely candidates for UV protective finishes are
lightweight woven and knitted fabrics intended for
producing shirts, blouses, T-shirts, swimwear, beachwear,
sportswear, and the like. Industrial fabrics designed for
awnings, canopies, tents and blinds may also benefit from a
UV-protective treatment [11, 19].
CLASSIFICATION OF UV STABILISERS
UV STABILISERS
UV Stabilizers are chemical compounds that are able to
interfere with the physical and chemical processes of light
induced degradation or degradation due to UVR. The
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function of UV stabilizers could be described by simply
absorbing the UV radiation and re-emitting it as heat
without deterioration. It helps to absorb UV radiation and
does not allow fibre to degrade or radiations to penetrate
human body. They are typically referred to as UV absorbers,
HALs and Quenchers [11].
Figure 3: Classification of UV stabiliser
UV ABSORBERS
UV absorbers are inorganic or organic substances capable of
selectively absorbing short wave solar radiation in the
spectral region 280- 400 nm and of restoring the absorbed
energy intact to the environment. They are often used as UV
screening agents [4, 11, 19-20].
Chemical compounds suitable for UV absorbers must meet
the following criteria:
• It should absorb effectively throughout the UV region,
but especially in 350-400 nm region.
• It must be UV stable itself.
• There should be quick transformation of the high UV
energy into the vibration energy in the absorber
molecules and then into heat energy in the
surroundings without photo degradation or colour
change in the medium it protects [21-26].
Figure 4: Working of UV absorbers [27]
Organic UV absorbers are derivatives of o-hydroxyl
benzophenones, o-hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole, o-
hydroxyphenyltriazines, and o-hydroxy phenyl hydrazines.
The orthohydroxyl group is considered essential for
absorption and to make the compound soluble in alkaline
solution. Some of the substituted benzophenones penetrate
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into synthetic fibres much like disperse dyes. [4, 11, 13, 15,
19-20, 22-26]
Benzophenone derivatives have low energy levels, easy
diffusibility and a low sublimation fastness. Orthohydroxy
phenyl and diphenyltriazine derivatives have an excellent
sublimation fastness and self-dispersing formulation can be
used in high temperature dyeing in pad-baths and also in
print pastes. [28-31]
The presence of inorganic pigments in the fibres results in
more diffuse reflection of light from the substrate and
provides better protection. Inorganic UV blockers are
usually certain semiconductor oxides such as TiO2, ZnO,
SiO2 and Al2O3 etc. compared with these existing organic
UV absorbers, the inorganic UV agents are more preferred
because of their unique features including, among others,
non-toxicity and chemical stability under both high
temperature and UV-ray exposure. Titanium dioxide and
ceramic materials have an absorption capacity in the
ultraviolet region between280 nm-400 nm and reflects
visible and IR rays and these absorbers are also added as Figure 6: Bonding of UV absorber with cellulose fibre [30]
dope additives [4, 11, 13, 15, 19-20].
QUENCHERS
The excited chromophores (C*) responsible for photo
oxidation can transfer their energy to an adequate or
quencher (Q), before chemical bonds are broken and radical
initiated reaction proceed. For effective stabilization, it is
important that further deactivation of the excited quencher
to the ground state molecule occur without the production of
any reactive species. The commonly used light stabilizers of
this kind are organic complexes of transition metals like Ni,
Fe, Cr etc. the inherent colour of these metal complexes is a
distinct problem, which limits their use as stabilizers for
white and clear polymer materials [4, 11, 32-34].

(b) Figure 7: Basic principle of Quencher [32]

Hindered Amine Light Stabilisers

(a)
Figure 5: Structure of UV absorber for (a) synthetic fibres and
(b) natural fibres [18]

Figure 8: Derivatives of 2, 2, 6, 6- tetramethylpiperidine

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 Int. J. Adv. Sci. Eng.
Vol. 1 No. 3 56-63 (2015) 59
Hindered amines light stabilizers type UV stabilizers are
produced by trapping of the intermediately developed
radicals. HALs protects polymer chemically not physically
and their effectiveness depends on the optimum dispersal in
the binding agents [4, 35]. Triazine class-hindered amine
light stabilisers are used in polypropylene fibre to improve
the ultraviolet stability. The addition of HALS (0.15%) is
sufficient to improve the stability substantially. HALs is
extremely efficient at preventing light induced degradation
of most polymers. They do not absorb UV radiation, but
instead act to inhibit degradation of the polymer [4, 11, 31-
32, 36].
The basic principle followed here is
Figure 9: Scheme of HALs action [34]
• They form nitroxyl radicals in the reaction with
hydroperoxides.
• These nitroxyl radicals react with free radicals in the
polymer backbone to form amine ethers.
• The amine ethers terminate peroxy radicals react to
cause reversion to nitroxyl radicals [11].
Figure 10: Basic Principle of HALs [27]
HALs regenerate themselves during the neutralization
process, so go on providing protection throughout the
lifetime of the coating [27]
PARAMETERS FOR UV PROTECTIVE TEXTILE
FABRICS
Table 2: Factors affecting UPF of textiles [37]
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FABRIC CONSTRUCTION FACTOR
Fabric construction factors are the most important
determinant of UV-Radiation. It includes weave, weave
density, cover factor, porosity, weight and thickness. All the
factors are interrelated and influence each other [4, 13-14].
WEAVE AND WEAVE DENSITY
Closer the fabric’s weave, the higher the UV radiation
protection because the fibres of tightly woven fabrics are
closer together, less UV radiation is able to pass through to
the skin. For the woven fabrics of same weight, the plain
weave designs give the highest protection. Knitted or woven
fabrics alter protection due to interlacing – the open spaces
where yarns cross. Stretched areas in a garment pull at the
interlacing, permitting UV to penetrate. Woven fabrics are
more UV protective than knitted fabrics [4, 13-14, 37-39].
COVER FACTOR/ POROSITY
Cover factor is defined as the percentage area occupied by
warp and weft yarns in a given fabric area. Cover factor is
related to UPF as follows:
% UVR TRANSMISSION = 100- COVER FACTOR
UPF value of 50 can be achieved with the percentage cover
factor of 98 composed of fibres that absorb all of the non-
reflected UV radiation will provide its wearer with excellent
protection against solar UV radiation. Woven fabrics usually
have a higher cover factor than knits due to the type of
construction [13-23].
Table 3: Porosity and maximum theoretical UPF [23].
Porosity i.e. the number of pores per unit of fabric surface
has an inverse relation with cover factor. Therefore, with a
decrease in porosity the UPF increases. The relative order of
importance for the UV protection is given by:
% cover factor >fibre type > fabric thickness [11]
Therefore fabric with the maximum number of yarns in
warp and weft will give high UPF value.
CHEMICAL PROCESSING- DYEING
Table 4: Effect of different dyes and different substrates on UPF
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ULTRAVIOLET PROTECTION FACTOR (UPF)

The protection extended by the textile materials are denoted
by Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF). UPF measures the
amount of UV radiation that penetrates a fabric and reaches
the skin. A fabric with UPF 15 allows only 1/15th (6.66%) of
the UV-radiation to penetrate the skin as compared to
uncovered skin. It is the factor by which the period of
exposure to sun can be extended without reddening the skin.
[8, 16, 27]
For all the dyes, the absorption band extends to UV radiation
spectrum (280-400 nm) and all the dyes, therefore, can act
as UV absorbers. The extinction coefficients of these dyes
determine their ability to increase the UPF of fabric. Studies
revealed that the sun protection properties were improved
on dyeing, irrespective of the chemical nature of the fibres.
Dark colours of the same fabric type provide better UV
protection than the light pastel colours for identical weave
due to increased UV absorption. However particular dyes
can vary considerably in the degree of UV protectiveness
Equation 1: Ultraviolet Protection Factor [13, 47]
because of individual transmission and absorption
characteristics. Some of the direct, reactive and vat dyes
substantially increase the UPF of 50+. Some of the direct
dyes substantially increase the UPF of bleached cloth, which
depends on the relative transmittance of the dyes in the UV-
B region. Dyes extracted from various natural resources also
show the UPF within the range of 15-45 depending on the Table 5: UPF Classification system [13, 38]
mordant used. Optical brightening agents or fabric
whitening agents white dyes which are used at the finishing
operations to enhance the whiteness of textiles by UV
excitation and visible blue emission. OBA can improve the
UPF of cotton and cotton blends, but not of fabrics that are
100% polyester or nylon. Limitation of OBA is that they
mostly absorb in the UVA part of the day light spectrum but
have a weak absorption in UV absorption around 308 nm
which plays an important role in skin disease [26, 40-43].

Figure 50: Relation between UPF and % reduction of UV

radiation [46]

UV INDEX
The UV index is designed to provide the public with a
numerical indication of maximum potential solar UVR level
during the day; the higher the number, the higher the solar
UVR hazard. UV index is calculated using various input
parameters such as the ozone level, potential cloud cover,
water vapors and aerosols and the elevation of cities. UV-
Index is a measure of the maximum daily level of ultraviolet
radiation (UVR) [11-12, 13, 38].
UVR index values are grouped into five exposure categories:

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 Int. J. Adv. Sci. Eng.
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Table 6: Categories of UV-Index values [11]
TECHNIQUES FOR QUANTITATIVE MEASUREMENT
OF UVR TRANSMISSION
Various techniques, both qualitative and quantitative, are
there to measure the UVR blocking capability of fabrics and
to calculate a UVR protection factor.
• In Vitro
There are two in vitro quantitative measurement techniques
to test UVR transmission through textiles or measure UPF.
One is radiometry where the total transmission of UVR
through a fabric is measured using a real or simulated
solarspectrum. The other is spectrophotometry where the
transmission of UVR through a fabric is measured as a
function of wavelength from which UPF is then calculated.
For both radiometry and spectrophotometry the primary
requirement is an ultraviolet radiation source that includes
both the UVA and UVB radiation. Filters are placed next to
the test specimen to prevent the effects of fluorescence
reaching the integrating sphere. Total diffuse radiation
transmitted through fabric is measured by both techniques
because it simulates radiation hitting the skin beneath the
textile in a real-life scenario [11, 36, 48-49].
• In Vitro
In this technique, rectangular pieces of fabric are typically
fastened to the skin and the MED of the protected and
unprotected skin is assessed to give an SPF. MED is defined
as the minimum quantity of radiant energy required to
produce first detectable reddening of the skin, 22±2 hours
after exposure. MED for unprotected skin is determined first
using incremental UVB doses. Subsequently, MED for
protected skin is determined by a series of incremental and
decremental UVB doses centered at the estimated SPF of the
given fabric as estimated from UPF values determined in
vitro. The dose that results in a minimal erythema extending
to the borders of irradiation is then used to calculate SPF as
shown in equation below. The higher the SPF value, the
better the fabric's ability to protect against sunburn [11, 36,
48-49].
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STANDARDS AND TEST METHODS FOR UV
PROTECTIVE CLOTHING
Several organizations around the world have developed or
have proposed performance standards for UV protection
fabrics. The AS/NZS 4399 sets requirements for determining
and labeling the UPF of sun protective textiles and other
items that are worn in close proximity to the skin. Apart
from Australian and New Zealand committees, United States,
British, Canadian South Africa and multinational groups (e.g.
commission on illumination, international organization for
standardization) have engaged in writing UV protective
textiles standard documents. Some are listed below [4, 11,
18].
Table 7: Standards for UV protection finished fabrics [11, 18]
Table 8: Test method for UV protection finished fabrics [4, 11,
18]
RECENT DEVELOPMENTS
1. Activated natural zeolite clinoptilolite is microporous
hydrated aluminosilicates crystals with well-defined
structure containing AlO4 and SiO4 tetrahedral linked
through the common oxygen atoms. Its application on
textiles provided excellent UV Radiation protection.
Also, natural zeolites nanoparticles are used to modify a
cotton fabric which gives protection from radioactive
contamination [50].
2. DuPont has developed UV-resistant core-sheath
elastomeric monofilament which comprises a polyether
ester, polyester urethane or polyester amide core and
polyether ester, polyester urethane or polyester amide
sheath having melting point of at least 20oC lower than
the core [13].
3. RUCO-SHIELD RAY by Rudolf Atul is based on mineral
titanium dioxide. The mode of action of RUCO-SHIELD
RAY is based on a combination of physical absorption
and reflection effects. RUCO-SHIELD RAY is suitable for
imparting UV protective finishes to textiles, e.g. for
lightweight summer clothes, children‘s wear, work
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wear, headwear, outdoor clothing, sportswear, shading
textiles (e.g. awnings, umbrellas, etc.) [51].
4. SOLUMBRA by Sun Precaution offers UPF of 102 after
500 wash cycles. SOLUMBRA’s 100+ UPF is
mechanically built instead of a coating treatment that
can wash off or wear off over time [52].
5. ENKA SUN developed by Akzo Nobel in collaboration
with Lenzing provided sun protection factor of 30+ [13].
CONCLUSION
The necessity of protecting humans from harmful UV
radiation is obvious when faced with a thinning ozone layer
and the growth in the number of cases of skin cancer.
Textiles with a suitably high UPF rating are one element of
fight against skin cancer and this necessitates the
development of stronger UV absorbers which will be
suitable for low UPF fibres. Various factors affecting the sun
protection and the effective measure to improve the
protection clearly indicate that UPF of a fabric is dependent
on many factors. The physical and chemical principles of UV
protection mechanism were discussed along with standard
testing methods.
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Usha Sayed et al
International Journal of Advanced Science and Engineering www.mahendrapublications.com