Sei sulla pagina 1di 67

ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 1

An evaluation of the effectiveness of branding strategies used within the UK fashion

industry- Zara

(Name)

(Institution)
ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 2

TABLE OF NTENTS

1.Introduction/Research Problem...................................................................................................4

1.1 Zara’s Branding Strategy................................................................................................. 5

1.2 Evaluating global retail leaders competitive strategies.........................................7

1.2.1 Zara versus H&M........................................................................................................... 7

1.2.2 Zara versus Gap Inc................................................................................................... 8

1.3 Future Overview................................................................................................................. 8

1.4 Aims and Objectives.......................................................................................................... 8

2.0 Literature Review............................................................................................................................10

2.1 Branding Theory....................................................................................................... 11

2.2 Strategy.............................................................................................................................. 15

2.3 Branding............................................................................................................................ 16

2.3.1 Brand Awareness........................................................................................................ 17

2.3.2 Brand Attitude............................................................................................................... 17

2.3.4 Brand Identity........................................................................................................................... 18

2.3.5 Brand Evolution............................................................................................................ 19

2.4Brand Definitions............................................................................................................. 20

2.5 Brand Affinity................................................................................................................... 23

2.6 Brand Personality........................................................................................................... 26

2.6.1 Aaker’s Brand Personality Construct.......................................................27

3.0 Methodology........................................................................................................................................28

3.1 Research Design...................................................................................................... 29

3.1.1 Research Philosophy............................................................................................... 29

3.1.2 Research Approach................................................................................................... 30

3.1.3 Research Strategy..................................................................................................... 32

3.1.4 Research Ethics........................................................................................................... 33

3.1.5 Methodology limitations....................................................................................... 34


ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 3

4.0 Findings..................................................................................................................................................34

4.1 Fast Fashion................................................................................................................ 35

4.2 The Textile Industry............................................................................................... 36

4.3 The “Zara Way”.......................................................................................................... 37

4.3.1 Production & Design................................................................................................ 38

4.3.2 Retailing & Store Operations...........................................................................39

4.3.3 Marketing............................................................................................................................ 40

4.4 Pros and Cons of Zara’s (Inditex’s) multi-brand store strategy 42

4.4.1 Advantages of multi-brand strategy..........................................................42

4.4.2 Disadvantages of multi-brand strategy..................................................43

4.5 Zara’s approach to minimize risk of “Cannibalization”..................43

5.0 Conclusion............................................................................................................................................45

6.0 Recommendation............................................................................................................................47

6.1 Overall Recommendation................................................................................... 48

Bibliography.................................................................................................................................................50
ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 4

1.INTRODUCTION/RESEARCH PROBLEM

In the twenty first century where technological advancements are

rampant, globalization has become an apparent phenomenon in the world

of business. International competition has intensified and therefore every

firm has had to feel the immense pressure from international competitors

in their domestic markets. International marketing refers to business

operations that enable a firm to operate effectively in more than one

country (Ghauri & Cateora, 2014). Zara is a Spanish fashion retail company

that has had immense global success as evidenced by their 2000 stores in

the world’s leading countries in over 80 countries. This success makes

Zara’s global branding strategy a befitting case study to be used by a

variety of global retailers and management experts as well as students.

The growth of social networking among consumers as has been

enabled by technological advancements accrues a wide array of benefits to

retailers and enables them to develop closer relationships with their

customers. Hanlein and Kaplan (2010) posit that social media gives firms

the leverage to engage in direct and timely contact with consumers at a

low cost but achieving higher efficiency levels that could be achieved with

traditional tools of communication. Conventionally consumers have used

social media as a means to interact with other individuals as opposed to

with businesses; however, the average consumer is currently linked to 29

consumer brands on Facebook. The exponential penetration and use of

smartphones and mobile devices as opposed to computers "has placed


ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 5

retailers, symbolically perhaps, in the palms of consumers’ hands, removing

many former borders and expanding the contexts and times that

engagement can happen". Retailers have leveraged the power of social

media and have developed large followings on sites such as Facebook that

enables them to consistently interact with consumers and deliver brand

specific content to their brand’s central supporters. 86% of the top hundred

online retailers in Europe, as per ComScore’s rating, have developed

outstanding Facebook profiles. This paper will delve into brand identity as a

core concept in the modern business world and establish orchestration and

interaction patterns and evaluate to what extent they need to be

implemented for brands to use social media to gain a competitive

advantage. The questions to be asked are: “What are the processes, skills

and mind-sets of retail brand owners when enacting their brands within

social media?” We shall begin by discussing the tensions between market

and brand orientation and to what extent these tensions are magnified

during the management of online brand identity. How data on Zara was

gathered will be described in the methodology. Data analysis on the

gathered information will identify the points to be considered when making

decisions, highlight the apparent hindrances to brand orientation and

identify the marketing team’s learning processes. The discussion part of

the paper will evaluate the differences between how organizations control

brand content and what the consumers expect of the brand

1.1 ZARA’S BRANDING STRATEGY

Inditex SA controls Zara, a multinational company that is owned by

Amancio Ortega Goana. Inditex is the global leader of clothing retailers

with their market capitalization being approximately €65 billion and Zara
ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 6

being responsible for around 80% of their revenue (Groucutt & Hopkins,

2015). The unique selling point (USP) for Zara is that they are able to offer

consumers relevant and trendy clothing at an inexpensive price. The

branding strategy that Inditex depends on is largely hinged on Zara, as they

were the first to establish themselves in new foreign markets thereby

enabling other brands to do the same.

Branding is perceived as a complex set of activities and processes.

It is possible to evaluate Zara’s branding process by evaluating three

conceptual theories of branding: entry options, market selection and

motivation. Summers and Frazier (2011) state that the push and pull theory

can be used to explain the motivation factor. Push factors lead a firm

towards looking for opportunities for branding. The push factors for Zara in

particular were the slow nature of growth in consumption, changing

purchase behaviour in Spanish consumers and the maturity of their

domestic market (Matic & Vabale, 2015). Pull factors refer to those

persuasive business conditions in the market; pull factors for Zara were the

rapid development of IT, opening up of countries to investment from foreign

countries, removal of hindrances to exportation, advent of regional blocs

and consequently markets such as the ASEAN FTA and the EU,

homogenization of patterns of consumption in different markets,

globalization and the entry of Spain into the EU (Bharadwaj, et al., 2011).

Zara’s branding process as pertains to selection of markets shows a

consistent pattern that can be expounded via the Uppaala model theory

that is used to explain how brands take steps towards increasing their

activities in other countries (Ghauri & Cateora, 2014). Zara’s first foreign

store was opened in Portugal in in 1988. This initial phase can be referred
ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 7

to as the “reluctance and trial stage” in which Zara’s orientation can be

referred to as ethnocentric. The consequent phase can be referred to as

“cautious expansion” and this is where Zara further took up globalization

into markets that were close to Spain and whose culture was similar to

Spanish culture. The years between 1989 and 1996 saw Zara opening a

store in Paris, which is considered as the global capital for fashion, and

more stores in Cyprus, Greece, Mexico, Malta, Sweden and Belgium (Lopez,

2009). After achieving considerable success in the markets, Zara took up

the “aggressive expansion strategy” which saw them open up stores in

other countries such as Japan, Argentina, Britain, Brazil, Canada,

Indonesia, and Costa Rica etc. In the new century, Zara expanded into

other international markets such as India, China and Australia (Matic &

Vabale, 2015). In consequent years Zara took to a geocentric market

orientation by using solutions that are specific to the individual market

other than just making replicas of the domestic market in other countries.

The strategy that Zara uses for market entry is hinged on

intermediate and hierarchical modes (Lopez & Fan, 2009). The hierarchical

mode is also known as direct investment and is the riskiest as well as most

costly mode of market entry; several South American and European

markets are characterized by significantly minimal business risk, minimal

socio-cultural distance from Spain and an immense potential for growth.

Zara used intermediate modes and participated in partnerships in India and

Germany as well as franchising in countries such as Andorra, Kuwait and

Puerto Rica etc. in countries that showed high risk and which were

significantly culturally different from Spain and whose markets had lower

potential for growth and whose barriers were considered to be higher. Once
ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 8

a strategy for entry into the market was determined, Zara adopted the “oil

stain” strategy for expansion where the firm established flagship retail

stores in strategic places within the new market then expanded in the

market.

1.2 EVALUATING GLOBAL RETAIL LEADERS COMPETITIVE STRATEGIES

There are several competitors in the fashion industry who pose a

threat to Zara in regards to business scope, tradition and size with Gap and

H&M being their most formidable rivals. The competitive strategy employed

by Zara is hinged on a number of elemental aspects. Zara has control over

most of the phases of the branding and is a vertically integrated retailer. It

is centered on “fast fashion” and has built its brand around this concept.

Fast fashion as a concept is built around affordability, trendy designs and

minimal time of production as well as distribution. By having highly

fashionable designs Zara is able to be at the forefront of the trend curve

and design, manufacture and supply their clothing lines within a minimal

time period therefore enabling managers to restock efficiently and

effectively.

1.2.1 ZARA VERSUS H&M

Hennes and Mauritz (H&M), a retail fashion company based in

Sweden, is Europe’s biggest and highest valued fashion brand with their

valuation being approximatedly €13 billion (Matic & Vabale, 2015). They are

located in 61 countries and have over 3900 retail stores. Their core concept

is “fashion and quality at the best price in a sustainable way” (H & M, 2016).

Both brands are very similar when evaluating how they operate within the

fast fashion market. However, Zara is vertically integrated while H&M takes
ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 9

a different approach by outsourcing production from 700 cloth suppliers.

Zara creates designs by imitating what is trendy within the market and

therefore enables it to maintain a competitive edge within the market by

being aware of the trends currently in circulation and distributing them

quickly to customers. Contrastingly, H&M have two main seasonal

collections: fall and spring, and have other collections seasonally which

they make possible by working with famous designers such as Stella

McCartney and Karl Lagerfeld to catch the eye of the market (Cavusgil, et

al., 2014). Zara’s focus is mainly on fashion show inspired products present

on catwalks around the world while H&M focuses on daily clothes and

street-fashion. Also, H&M uses celebrities for their advertisements whereas

Zara’s advertisement strategy focuses on basic shopping and being able to

meet the needs within the market.

1.2.2 ZARA VERSUS GAP INC.

Gap is a fashion retailer based in San Francisco. The brand was

established in 1969 and is among the world’s leading retail fashion brands

being based in 5 countries (Canada, USA, UK, Japan and France) with 3053

stores (Gap Inc., 2016). They outsource production from 1100 suppliers in

both the United States and abroad unlike Zara (Bharadwaj, et al., 2011).

Unlike Zara, Gap has not adopted an aggressive branding process and has

instead mainly focused on its large revenue source markets. This has seen

them spend a substantial amount of their cost expenditure on

advertisement; unlike Gap, Zara has decided to use their revenue to

establish new stores. Gap has however been going through tumultuous

times owing to the intense nature of competition within the market.


ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 10

1.3 FUTURE OVERVIEW

Zara’s business model is evidently more tuned for growth and

development into the future as evidenced by the analysis above. Annually

Zara is able to produce 12 to 16 collections (11000 items) in comparison to

their competitors who only produce two collections annually (200-4000

items) (Temporal, 2011). Customers of Zara therefore visit the stores more

frequently in order to be aware of new items. Zara also has significantly

more control of the functions of their branding and this enhances their

stock turnaround. They also have a more dominant international presence

as compared to their rivals. Their employee and manager empowerment

strategy and that of consistent management of their IT infrastructure also

gives them a competitive edge over their rivals. However, they should be

aware of the detrimental effects of heaving immense pressure on their

branding in order to cater for the needs of their expanding international

market.

1 .4 AIMS AND OBJECTIVES

Statistics from eshopwolrd.com (2018) show that there are about 46

million ecommerce users in the UK. The economic output of the retail

sector was estimated at £92.3billion in 2017 accounting for 5 per cent of

UK’s GDP. There has been rapid advancement in the fashion industry in

prior years and firms within the industry are altering their processes and

systems of business. Companies are becoming more focused on the

consumer and their present needs. The concept of fast fashion is being

integrated into more business operations within the industry as consumers

are evidently aware of and demanding the latest trends. Consumers are

constantly in search of new products that are different and unique and
ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 11

firms that are able to give this to consumers are bound to have more

success.

Other than looking for a wider variety of products, consumers are

also using several new channels to enable them to shop. Online shopping is

becoming more prevalent in this market space as it lures consumers due to

its convenience. The use of these different channels however differ by

generation and firms should therefore be aware of the target market’s

purchase behaviour in order to know how to reach them and meet their

needs. Fashion firms are therefore able to adapt their operations and

integrate technology into their processes to make the consumer

experience more pleasurable.

The core objectives of this study are as follows:

 To conduct literature review on Branding theory:


 Analyse the current branding position of Zara and their marketing

and communication channels, branding and strategies employed in

the e-commerce business model as compared to their on-ground

retail stores.
 Evaluation of how effective Zara’s current strategy is
 Recommendations on how to improve on their current branding

strategies
ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 12

2.0 LITERATURE REVIEW

Retail can be defined as the activity of selling products to the final

customer. The initial phase of the process is identification of the demand

within the market then the demand is met through branding. There have

been changes in formidable retailer groups in prior years as they

increasingly use their bargaining and purchase power to demand for more

flexible networks of production and lower costs.

Huys and Sels (1999) posit that: “Instead of clothing manufacturers

pushing fairly standardized products through the chain, a greater variety of

products are now pulled through the chain by retailers. Smaller quantities

of more varied goods and more sophisticated products replenishments

schedules enabled retailers to respond more accurately to consumer

purchasing behaviour.”

Standardised production for a general market was a core attribute of the

fashion industry in the past with suppliers pushing products to retailers for

2 to 4 seasons. Many retailers sought for methods by which they could

reduce their operations. They were able to lower their inventories through

reducing the period between the sale and the order by having an increased

number of seasons with low goods for sale. Success in this market space is

hinged on the retailer’s ability to identify modern trends and adapting

hastily to these market dynamics. Technology has been used as a means by

which retailers are able to be constantly aware of upcoming market trends

with their stores giving them market data on sales and therefore enabling

them to order lower quantities of products with frequency consequently


ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 13

lowering costs incurred due to inventory and pushing the product prices

lower.

Sandberg (2011) identifies a number of market trends evidenced in

the retail fashion markets of Western Europe:

• Expansion to new geographical markets: there is less intense competition

in markets in Eastern Europe that have higher growth in GDP.

• Private Labeling: stores have ensured customer loyalty by using private

labels.

• Vertical integration and consolidation: this is helpful when a firm is

seeking to reduce operational costs as well as enhance efficiency, lower

costs of transportation and turnaround periods. DeWulf and Bushman

(2005) hold the position that “Private labels are brands owned by the

retailers and sold exclusively in their stores, being part of retailers’

business”. Private labels give firms differentiation from their rivals and this

in turn proves to be a competitive advantage. They are enabling firms to

gain more profits, capture more of the market as well as offering the

consumers more expensive products but at cheaper prices.

Introducing private labels can accrue several benefits to retailers and

become core determinants of their success; these include:

• Improving consumer loyalty, brand image as well as strategic

differentiation

• Increasing in the revenues;

• The bargaining power over manufacturers increase


ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 14

2.1 BRANDING THEORY

Brand equity and its intangible advantage to a firm has become an

immensely researched on topic in recent years. Brand equity has been

attributed as having an effect towards firm performance and therefore

should be expounded on in terms of effects of the marketing process that

are specially characterized to a brand. The definition of brand equity is

therefore in that the success of marketing a product is hinged on the

consumer’s perception of the brand; if perceived positively then the

product is likely to have more success than if it was not taken as being part

of that brand.

Recognizing some benefits of the marketplace that are got from

possessing a strong brand can see the brand value for an organization

appreciate. Hoeffler and Keller’s (2003) research evidenced a wide array of

benefits:

. Better performance of products in the market;

. Increased consumer loyalty;

. Lower vulnerability to the actions of rivals and crises in marketing;

. More profits;

. Greater consumer elasticity when prices are decreased and lower

elasticity when prices are increased;

. Better intermediary support and co-operation;

. More effective communication marketing;

. More opportunities for licensing and extending the brand.


ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 15

The ability of firms to leverage these advantages will invariably vary

depending on the individual firm’s resources and marketing expertise as

well as the specific situational circumstances within the market and

contextual base of operation. Some brands face intense rivalry that

decreases their ability to take advantage of the benefits accrued by

branding. Consumers who are tough minded or fickle in nature may also be

a detriment towards firm’s ability to enjoy these benefits. Despite these

circumstances, brand establishment and management is a consideration to

consumers and companies in search for the best product among a variety

of offerings within a market.

Building a formidable brand enables a form to increase the

effectiveness of marketing communication. The willingness of consumers

to acquire additional information from a brand increases as per the

strength of the brand and its equity. They are also more willing to process

the information more positively and their consequent recall ability is

impacted more favorably. Brand equity is therefore core to ensuring that

advertising works effectively whether as an individual goal or in the

process of enabling other goals.

These benefits are however only achievable if a brand has a strong

image in the market. Establishing a strong brand is thus a central objective

of management (Aaker 1991, 1996; Kapferer 2005). Core to establishing

formidable brands is the presence of the proper structures of knowledge in

the minds of the consumers that will enable them to react favorably to

marketing campaigns. One important way by which this knowledge can be

shaped is through marketing communications. This is in reference to the

means that firms persuade, inform and remind consumers on the brands
ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 16

and products that they sell. In essence, marketing communications is

representative of the overall ‘voice’ of a company possesses, therefore the

brand are a way of establishing a dialogue and building relationships with

consumers. This is clearly demonstrated in Aeker’s Brand Equity Model

shown in the illustration below:

Brand Equity

Brand Perceived Brand


Brand Loyalty Other
Awareness Quality Association
Proprietary
Assets

Brand Loyalty shows the extent that people become loyal to a

particular brand that is revealed through a reduction in marketing cost

since relying on loyal customers is way cheaper than charming new

customers. Loyal customers are a representation of a stable revenue

source. Loyalty attracts new customers who are also slow to switch brands

thus giving the brand an avenue to respond to competitive threats.

Brand awareness shows the extent a brand well known in the public

domain that are measured with the following metrics:

 An anchor where some association is attached that is

dependent on the strength of a certain brand name


ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 17

 Liking and familiarity such that consumers with a positive

brand attitude often talk more about a brand hence spreading

its awareness.
 Commitment towards a brand
 Brand to be considered in the purchasing process and to what

particular extent the emotion evoked by a brand.

Perceived quality is the extent that a brand is considered to offer quality

products and is measured with the following metrics:

 Differentiation level in comparison to competing brands


 Price of product
 Quality offered by a product
 The availability of several channels of sale for a particular

brand
 The increased number of extension of the brand.

Brand Association is any association that could be triggered by mere

association of brand. These include the extent that a brand retrieves

association from the consumer brain like information gathered from

television advertisement. The extent of differentiation contributing to brand

differentiation in comparison to its competitors and also the extent of

brand association in the buying process. The greater the extent, the higher

the brand equity. The extent of association of a brand leads to positive

attitude hence and extension of the brand.

Marketing communications gives several functionality benefits to the

consumers. It shows consumers the right way to use products and the

reasons why it should be used, shows the type of consumer to use the

product and at what time and place it should be used. Consumers are also

given information on who makes the product and what their brand

represents and also inform them of rewards or incentives for day-to-day


ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 18

usage or for trial periods. It allows firms to create linkages between their

brands and consumers, places, feelings, events, experiences and other

things. Marketing communications can build online and offline communities

as well as create experiences. It contributes to brand equity through brand

establishment in the consumers’ memory as well as creating an image of

the brand and consequently impacts sales revenue as well as shareholder

value (Luo and Donthu 2006).

Marketing communications, despite its effectiveness and benefits,

must remain effective in an intensifying communication and competitive

environment. Media has undergone drastic changes in previous years as

traditional marketing media has become less effective. Technological

advancements have drastically changed the marketing landscape by

influencing how, where and when consumers access information and

whether or not to process the information. The penetration of the Internet,

smartphones, digital video recorders, portable music players have called

for marketers to go back to the drawing board when it comes to marketing

activities (Kaplan Thaler and Koval 2003; Kiley 2005).

2.2 STRATEGY

Michael Porter (1996), posited that strategy can be defined on the basis of

three elemental aspects: creation of strategic positions, creation of a fit in

the firm’s systems and making trade-offs. Competitive strategy considers

how a firm is able to make themselves unique in the market space and this

therefore requires them to choose a set of systems and processes that are

different from their rivals and consequently provide a special experience to

the consumer. Strategy is hinged on a firm’s ability to create a position that


ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 19

is valuable to them and making decisions to perform activities that are

different from their competitors. Therefore, strategic position can be

acquired through different methods:

 Access based positioning: where the consumer needs are same but

how the firm can meet these needs is different.


 Needs based positioning: this is where there exists same customers

but with different needs in unique occasions.


 Variety based positioning: a firm engages in the production of

products through different activities


(Porter, 1996)

It is very simple for competitors to imitate a corm’s defined strategic

positioning and therefore it is crucial that a firm understands the impact of

trade-offs to their performance.

Porter (1996) states “Trade-offs are essential to strategy. They

create the need for choice and purposefully limit what a company offers.”

Trade-offs are evident in 3 different ways. Inconsistency between the value

of the service delivered and their reputation is one of the ways through

which trade-offs appear. The second is from inflexible resources and

expertise required during situations. The third way through which trade-offs

appear is internal management limitations. Trade-offs enable a company to

make decisions on what activities to undertake and what activities to not

undertake. Lastly, strategy as defined by Porter is the ability of firms to

create a fit between their activities. Fit enables firms to improve the

effectiveness of their operations and this is immensely difficult for rivals to

imitate. When an individual activity has a deficiency then the whole

system’s effectiveness is reduced and in the same way, if an individual

process is improved then the entire system improves.


ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 20

2.3 BRANDING

The firm uses branding as their central strategy towards building a

competitive edge that is sustainable and that differentiates them from their

rivals. Proper branding is advantageous to a firm and contrastingly, poor

branding will have detrimental effects on the firm’s performance. O’Malley

(1994) posited that a brand is defined as a design, name or symbol or a

combination of the three that enables consumers to identify a firm’s

products and gives them a considerable differentiated edge over

competitors. Brand personality enables firms to establish an emotional

relationship between the brand and the consumers and is effective in

ensuring consumer loyalty. There are seven approaches towards branding

as expounded on by Scott MacStravic (1999) and each has its own set of

advantages and demerits:

1. Smoke-and-mirrors branding is focused on advertisement and is

applicable with products whose advantage is inherent in the

consumers’ perception of them.


2. Features-based branding focuses on the specific features that the

producer wants to highlight. However, different consumers may

perceive these things differently.


3. Event-based branding focuses on occurrences that take place. Just

like feature based branding, different consumers may perceive these

events differently.
4. Attribute-based branding uses positive qualities in branding;
5. Results-based branding focuses only on results that arise or that are

achievable in future. Promising these results can however be risky to

the consumer.
ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 21

6. Value-delivered branding is focused on the costs and benefits

deliverable.
7. Value-gained branding is focused on the product’s impact on the

consumers’ life.

2.3.1 BRAND AWARENESS

Rossiter (1992) define brand awareness as “a buyer’s ability to

identify a brand within a category in sufficient detail to make a purchase”.

The customers’ ability to recognize the brand during the moment of

purchase is an important point during marketing communication.

Companies should however be aware of the difference between recall and

recognition. Recognition of a brand is characterized by when brand

awareness comes prior to purchase; the consumer recognizes the brand

that makes them aware of the product that will satisfy their needs. Brand

recall on the other hand is antonymic to brand recognition; the consumer is

aware of their needs and therefore they remember a number of brands so

as to make a purchase decision.

2.3.2 BRAND ATTITUDE

Rossiter and Percy (1992) define brand attitude as “a buyer’s overall

evaluation of a brand with respect to its perceived ability to meet a

currently relevant motivation”.

Their position is that a consumer’s evaluation of a brand is linked to their

present motivation. They expound on this by providing 4 characteristics

that enable us to understand this concept better: brand attitude depends


ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 22

on the purchaser’s current motivation, involves both affective and cognitive

components of which the latter may contain beliefs of benefits from

associating with the brand and the notion that brand attitude is largely

relative (Percy and Rossiter, 1992).

Shorthand Relationship Risk Reducer

Evolving Entity Identity System Personality

2.3.4 BRAND IDENTITY

Brand positioning is identified from several perspectives and definitions of

a brand.

Figure on Brand Identity

Logo Image
Adding Value

Company Value System Legal Instrument


ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 23

Identity positioning as defined by Kelly and Lewis (2008, p.38-41)

enables us to give understanding on what values the brand represents and

how it fits within the market and between rivals. Identity positioning gives

brand managers the ability to match elemental aspects of brands and

metaphors in order to aid in the creation of advertisement campaigns and

inform consumers of the advantages of a certain brand’s products while

alleviating concerns on their demerits.

Strategic management of brands is a new concept in the business

landscape with the available literature providing case studies of brands

that involve informing consumers of advantages and quality assurance; the

examples are dated back to 2250 BC.

2.3.5 BRAND EVOLUTION

The concept of brands has existed for a long time. “Prototype-

brands” refer to items that have been dated to the early Bronze Age

(2250BC) (Moore and Reid, 2008). These brands have prototypical attributes

when compared to modern world brands.

A conventional prototype brand had certain information that was

attached to the product or how it was packaged that intended to satisfy

three core requirements. The first was providing information on the source

of the product often in form of signature, symbols or properties of the

materials used to manufacture it. It also facilitated marketing such as

transportation, sorting and storing. The third purpose was to provide

information on quality, which consequently reduces consumer risk during


ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 24

occasions when products are recalled. A product’s source for example, may

improve how the consumer perceived is quality.

Brick producers made markings on their products to facilitate easy

identification as a result of different areas making bricks of different

quality. This is identifiable from artifacts and records that date back to

Egyptian times. Medieval European trade groups also fitted their products

with “trademarks” that were marked upon products to ensure that the

consumers were aware of the quality of the product and offer a form of

legal ownership of brands (Farquhar, 1989).

Branding as a term was obtained from the word brand; initially it

referred to the activity of marking harlots and wrongdoers for identification

(Henning, 2000) or on livestock with hot irons and embers so as to identify

them easily (Arnold and Hale, 1940).

The concept of brands was further developed in the 18th century as

“brand names” and animal images; origins and famous individuals in the

society replaced the conventional process of only showing the name of the

producer. Producers became aware of the benefits of associating their

brands with products thereby ensuring that consumers would more easily

recall and identify the differences between their products and those of

rivals. In the 19th century for example, whiskey of high quality was

commonly associated with smugglers and how they were able to specially

distil alcohol. This led to the establishment of the “Old Smuggler” brand in

1935 thereby leveraging this perception in consumer minds.

Marketing experts had already taken up brands and began using

them in marketing by the 1920s (Stern, 2016), but only until the 1950s did it
ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 25

become a subject of focus in research and studies increasingly made

considerations on how consumers perceive brands (Gardner, 2015) which

caused symbolic associations and meanings of brands to become crucial to

organizations. This concept has developed from its definition as a method

of identification to being an overarching system by which organizations and

products are identified and which represent the function, direction and

meaning of organizations (Kapferer, 1994).

2.4BRAND DEFINITIONS

As brands develop they have become more instrumental in ensuring

maximum performance and have become an important intangible asset

thereby calling for strategic management (Keller, 2008). Establishing and

developing formidable brands can offer organizations a significant

competitive edge but establishing brands may also have its own set of

challenges.

Brands have undergone a number of definitions by different scholars.

Brand as defined by De Chernatony (2008) expound on the concept as

having 12 elemental capacities; they include “legal instrument, logo,

company, shorthand device, risk reducer, identity system, image, values

system, and personality, relationship, adding value and evolving entity”.

A brand as a “legal instrument” refers to the mark that enables a

firm to state that they have legal ownership of it. Historical origins of this

capacity of brands are believed to have originated from branding of animals

and its development into a trademark that protects a firm’s investment in a

brand (Broadbent and Cooper, 1987).


ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 26

The American Marketing Association defines brands as “logos” as

being a “name, term, sign, symbol, or design, or a combination of them,

intended to identify the goods and services of one seller or group of sellers

and to differentiate them from those of competition”. This capacity of

brands enables consumers to differentiate brands using visual

identification and its name. The importance of brands as logos is evident in

the consideration of brand awareness and especially recognition of brands.

Psychological literature on the topic of marketing shows that constant

exposure to information in the form of logos improves the chances for a

consumer to judge a product favorably and increase its acceptability in the

specific market’s situations (Janiszewski, 2001).

The capacity of a brand as a “company” utilizes the fathered equity

by the company’s name that applies to their products and therefore is an

extension of the firm (Cretu, 2007). The advancement of own-labels in the

business world is making this conceptualization of brands as companies

more dominant. In the supermarket retail sector, for example, companies

such as Tesco have leveraged this to produce company branded products

such as Tesco Petrol, finest goods and insurance among several other own-

label brands. Contrastingly, firms such as Nestle have over six thousand

products brands that range from pet care to cereals (Aaker, 2004).

The perception of brands as “shorthand” looks at brands as

facilitating the increase in speed and briefness as well as enabling the

representation of psychological and utilitarian individualities (Cohen, 2009).

Brands as “risk reducers” accrues specific advantages to firms as a result

of the risks that customers think of before making purchase decisions and

when in the activity of doing so (Kapferer, 2008). By doing this brands are
ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 27

allowed to present their goods and services in a way that improves

confidence and reduces the risks that consumers perceive to be

associated with the brand. As a brand develops it becomes more important

for them to ensure consistence in the product’s quality and services

offered so as to enjoy the benefits of brands as a reducer of perceived

risks.

Brands also operate as an “Identity system” which can be defined as

“the brand not being a product, but the product's essence, its meaning, and

its direction; it defines its identity in time and space”. The position of

Kapferer takes a deconstructionist approach to the conceptualization of

the brand as a logo and as a legal instrument. A brand’s true meaning

should be understood and an alignment made between the consumer and

the employee and consistency ensured throughout all the organization’s

facets (Jones, 2001). Any gaps between the consumer and the employees

should consequently be reduced and eventually eliminated (Davies and

Chun, 2002).

The brand can also be perceived as an “Image” in the minds of

consumers and therefore emphasizing the crucial role that image plays in

business; consumers react to perceived notions of realism as opposed to

its actuality (Kapferer, 2008). Brands work towards communicating certain

imageries and symbolisms to the consumers thereby impacting their

perceptions of the brand and differentiating the brand and its products from

rivals (Mody-Kamdar and Srivastava, 2009).

The conceptualization of brand being a “Values System” posits that

consumer decisions are made on the basis of both individual and cultural
ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 28

belief systems. For a consumer to consider a brand as being valuable there

has to be a congruency between their personal and cultural values as well

as those that are represented by the brand.

The perception of a brand being a “Personality” is considered as an

anthropomorphisation, which is obtained from the Latin word “anthr opos”.

This involves brands having human attributes as a means of sustaining

individuality by creating emphasis on psychological values that exist

outside of the brand’s spectrum or utility. The brand as a personality gives

them humanistic characteristics that enable consumers to relate to them

as if they were people (Grohmann, 2009).

The conceptualization of a brand as a “relationship” necessitates the

aforementioned aspect of brands as a personality to be established so as

to create a link between brands and consumers. Brands as a relationship

enables consumers to not only be aware of and recognize the brand but

also interact with it and establish relationships that impact consumer

loyalty (Aaker et al., 2004).

Perception of brands being a means of “Adding value” refers to the

creation of differentiation advantages by creating perceived benefits to the

consumer (Schau et al., 2009), and therefore giving these brands a

competitive edge. This enables firms to use premium-pricing strategies, for

example to offer better “quality” service.

Perception of brands as an “Evolving entity” refers to brands going

through different phases of advancement. Each phase shifts the focus of

the brand from the organization and product to the consumer. For example,

an entity that is unbranded becomes a logo, and then it acquires a


ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 29

personality, develops a relationship with consumers, and eventually has

values added to its original existence.

The conceptualization of brands as a “logo” will be the most used in

this literature (Aaker, 1996), it is however evident from the aforementioned

literature that this is not an overarching definition of brands. De Chernatony

(1998) and Crainer (1995) hold a criticism on the definition as relying too

much on the visual attributes of the brand as opposed to the intangible

merits accrued from its existence. Chaffey (2009, p.159) builds upon this

criticism and gives his own definition of a brand as; “an identifiable product

or service augmented in such a way that the buyer or user perceives

relevant unique added values which match their needs most. Furthermore,

its success results from being able to sustain these added values in the

face of competition”. Added values are therefore considerably more

intangible but at the same time of similar imperativeness.

2.5 BRAND AFFINITY

Lassar et al., (2005) state that brand image represent a number of

their associations; they are defined as “consumer perceptions of and

preferences for a brand, as reflected by the various types of brand

associations held in consumers’ memories” (Keller, 2009). An emphasis is

therefore created on the commerciality of image and an argument made

that individuals react to their perceptions of reality (Godin, 2005), as

opposed to the actuality of reality (Kapferer, 2008). Included in these

associations are brand performance, beliefs, personality and meaning.

“Associations as brand beliefs” refer to the views that individuals have

developed as regards to products that are associated with a specific brand.


ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 30

Measurement of beliefs is carried out via qualitative research by enquiring

from stakeholders about their perceptions of certain brands.

Keller (2008) defines “Associations as brand performance” by stating that

they are “the way in which the product or service attempts to meet

customers more functional needs”. This is built upon by expounding on 5

elemental attribute types that are:

 Supplementary features: consumers could hold beliefs on a product’s

operating level or features of its design that are specific to it and

thereby make it unique.


 Serviceability, reliability and durability: factors considered include

the actual performance consistency and comparisons with its

expectations over its lifetime, service provision and speediness and

quality of service provision.


 Quality of service puts into emphasis the effectiveness of the

service and therefore includes aspects such as customer

satisfaction, speed, efficiency, and responsiveness of the service to

the consumer’s needs.


 Design and style include associations that do not hold any functional

significance which includes aesthetics such as shape, size, material,

smell and color


 Price structure: price is crucial as it establishes a perception of the

quality of a product in the minds of consumers therefore causing

them to relate a price to a tier within the market category.

Stakeholders often regard higher priced items as offering higher

quality.

“Associations as brand through meaning” highlight the extrinsic

attributes of the product therefore seeking to satisfy the consumer’s


ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 31

psychosocial and psychological needs. This overreaches the basic

functional merits, for example:

 User profiles highlight the individual stereotypes of people whom the

product is intended for and therefore meant to appeal to the target

customer’s aspirations. Hauge and Power (2008) identify an

unintended consequence of user profiles that “emerged when a

subculture became devoted followers of the famous Burberry

pattern. Burberry check, in particular checked baseball caps,

became a symbol of so called chavs, a derogatory term for

uneducated, uncultured British working class youths associated with

antisocial behaviour”.
 Situations of purchase and usage are typical situation associations

where the brand is meant to be bought and utilized, for example,

being bought from a specific outlet type or how easy it is for the

product to be purchased. Firms could also relate associations to the

instances that they should be utilized, for example, during specific

time periods within the day or the month, where they should be used,

or even the activity which the product should be used for. The brand

“Coco Pops” recently tried to improve associated utilization of their

product in after school as well as before school means (Sims, 2010).


 Chamorro-Koc et al., (2009) hold the position that experience and

heritage associations enable a brand to relate to certain events in

history as well as episodic information in regard to individual

emotional events or ones that involve the family or friends of the

consumer. A brand may for instance, be associated with a film or a

song that has significant emotional effect on the consumer.


ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 32

“Associations as brand experiences” can be explained as “encompassing

the feelings, sensations, behavioral response and cognitions which are

induced by stimuli related to the brand” Brakus et al., (2009) is of the idea

that associations as brand experiences are a representation of several

communications which encompass the surrounding environment of a brand

and package it to order to enable for the creation of a perception and

experience to the consumer. Firms could use technology to increase these

experiences and make these brands core elements of the consumer’s day

to day experiences; for example, “on the move” computer and mobile device

applications have been used to improve the interactivity of brands and

consumers and to create attachment as suggested by Broady et al., (2007).

Scales of brand attachment have been developed with a view to measuring

the intensity of connection between brands and their consumers (Whan

Park et al., 2010) as well as to what extent the brand interacts with

consumers and the degree to which they would utilize, buy, look for

information, talk about and go to brand events.

“Associations as brand personality” refer to the brand as having

humanistic attributes. Research shows that McDonald’s is perceived as

having more competencies and being more exciting in comparison to

Burger King (Keller, 2004). Respondents in this area of research are often

asked to rate brands based on Aaker’s (1997) 42 traits framework that will

be discussed in detail in coming sections

2.6 BRAND PERSONALITY


ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 33

“Brand personality” as a phenomena in brands has oftentimes been

perceived as being of “intuitive appeal”, especially when considering the

link between consumers and a brand.

Humanistic Personality

Brand Personality

Unique Selling Point

Aaker’s Brand Personality

Geuen’s Brand Personality

The brand personality framework established by Aaker (1997) and

developed by Geuns et al. (2009) is one of the most iconic within this field

of research:

The framework developed by Aaker (1997) was based on the “Big Five’ of

brand personality was developed based on the “Big Five” humanistic

personality dimensions that were employed in the analysis of brands by

filtering and using other relevant scales of marketing. Aaker’s scale is

specifically developed for use in the context of Western brands and is

widely accepted and used in the subsequent literature. Widespread use of

Aaker’s scale has led to researchers being aware of its limitations through

thorough validation and testing (Azoulay and Kapferer, 2003). Several other
ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 34

researchers have also used it in contrasting cultural contexts (Smith et al.,

2002).

The framework developed by Geuens (2009) is a 5 factors, 12 item

measuring technique of brand personality and its original form was only

meant to include personal items. Therefore, this is evidence of its affinity

to “Big Five” model. The study was based on the opinions of 12,789 Belgian

respondents and included one hundred and ninety three brands. The

respondents were required to rate 12 items within the confines of 5 factors:

activity, emotionality, aggressiveness, simplicity and responsibility. The

strength of this model is that it is valid across different cultures without

the need for adoption of culture specific scales.

2.6.1 AAKER’S BRAND PERSONALITY CONSTRUCT

We will review Aaker’s model of brand personality and assess its

definition and development using several trait sources that have been

drawn from marketing as well as human scales that were thoroughly

refined and filtered.

The framework of brand personality developed by Aaker (1997) gives

researchers the ability to explain and measure 5 distinct aspects of the

conceptualization of brands as a personality. It can be defined as “the set

of human characteristics associated with a brand”. Direct as well as

indirect brand routes may lead to the formation of these associations; as

Aaker (2000) makes clear with fundamental using the Virgin personality

example that “flaunts the rules, has a sense of humour (maybe even

outrageous), is the underdog (willing to attack the establishment) and is

competent (always doing a good job with high standards)”.


ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 35

It is possible to typify several brands by the dimensions shown:

Brand Personality

Sincerity Excitement Competence Ruggedness Sophistication

Honesty Daring Reliable


Upper-class
Whole Spirited Intelligent Tough
Charming
Cheerful Creative Successful

3.0 METHODOLOGY

It is important to highlight the methodology used in this study so as

to enhance understanding of the findings.

The research aims at understanding brand identity management as

presented in the social media context in the present day society. The core

objectives are understanding how brand owners so as to accrue

themselves a competitive edge within the market implement patterns of

orchestration, interaction and effect. To enable this research data was

collected through carrying out qualitative interviews and from going

through secondary sources from a case study. Case studies enhance


ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 36

understanding when evaluating “the complex processes of contemporary

marketing management” which include online marketing communication

and relationship marketing (Kapoulas, 2012). The purpose is not to

generalize the research to any demographic but rather to “to a real world

that has been uncovered” (Easton, 2000). To ensure relevance we decided

to use a single applicable case study (Yin, 2003). Qualitative research

allows for the researcher to select cases on the basis of the richness of

information contained therein and the relevance to the phenomenon under

evaluation (Shaw, 1999). The case study was selected upon considering the

prominence of the brand within the United Kingdom market and its activity

levels on social media. The sample company in the case study is a

prominent fashion retailer in the UK with more than 10 years of business

operation within the market. It operates approximately 100 stores and

concessions on top of an e-commerce platform. Most of its business

products are branded fashion items for women, men and children from mid-

tier fashion market and sports brands. On top of these items, it also retails

its own products and brand. The selected brand has a formidable presence

on more than four social media sites and has an in-house social media

resource that is dedicated to performing its functions. The brand offers a

unique evaluation of the phenomena of brand identity and management in

the digital age on social media. The selected company in the case study

has received several awards in the retail industry and is therefore a

recognizable social media champion in the retail industry. The immense

potential that the selected case study holds for evaluation and analysis

into brand management on social media is enough criteria to validate its

selection in this particular study.


ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 37

This research will therefore analyse the branding concepts in use by

Zara to facilitate effective marketing of their products and focus will be

emphasized on how the consumers perceive Zara as a brand in the UK. It

will also highlight the core factors that will be instrumental in aiding Zara

to develop as a brand as perceived by consumers. To enable us to conduct

out this research the research onion was followed: the research philosophy

that guided the study is firstly explained then the approach taken, strategy

used, sampling method, research ethics, instruments used in data

collection, procedures for data analysis and consequently the limitations of

the methodology used. The reasons and merits of selecting this

methodology are explained under each of the subsequent headings.

3.1 RESEARCH DESIGN

3.1.1 RESEARCH PHILOSOPHY

Research philosophy is highlighted as the initial step in undertaking

any research study. “The research philosophy you adopt can be thought of

as your assumptions about the way in which you view world” (Saunders,

2012) There are several research philosophies; epistemology and ontology

both “highlight important differences which will influence the research

process” (Saunders, 2012) This particular research will employ

Interpretivism which emphasizes “conducting research among people

rather than other objects such as truck and computers.” (Saunders, 2012)

The research will therefore be focused on human beings; an analysis of

branding strategies employed by Zara in Dublin, Ireland to enhance

consumer loyalty to the brand among Irish consumers. The research makes

an attempt towards understanding how these branding strategies will


ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 38

enable Zara to enhance consumer loyalty and improve the brand’s growth in

the market in Ireland. Interpretivism means that the “researcher has to

adopt an empathetic issue” (Saunders, 2012) and that they have to enter a

“social world of the research subjects and understand their world from

their point of view.” (Saunders, 2012). Also, interpretivism is “highly

appropriate in the case of business and management research specifically

in the field of human resource management.” (Saunders, 2012).

Interpretivism was therefore chosen for this research due to its suitability

and appropriateness for this specific research.

3.1.2 RESEARCH APPROACH

This is the subsequent layer of the research onion model. Its

structure shows that there are two methods of approaching research:

deductive approach and inductive approach. This research study will utilize

the deductive approach or the “top down” approach. This means that we

will start with the broad theory underlying phenomena and gravitate

towards the specific hypotheses and collect observations to validate the

aforementioned hypotheses. The theory can finally be denied or confirmed

(Saunders, 2012, Trochim, 2006).

Secondary data as well as primary data was used to gather

information on the company under analysis and about their consumers.

Initially, it was crucial for the researcher to understand the internal

operations of Zara: their strategies (employees, product, management,

suppliers, internalization, and sustainability), branding, marketing and

communication channels. It was also important to understand the


ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 39

customer’s role in the company and analyse their behaviour putting into

consideration their generation.

Secondary data refers to data that has been gathered prior to the

research study and has been analyzed by other people. Secondary data was

gathered from academic papers, books, Zara and Inditex’s website and

yearly reports, magazine and newspaper articles and any online information

that was imperative to the research.

Primary data is data that was gathered by the researcher to improve the

nature of the study by having fresh information. An online survey was

conducted to measure customer behaviour (physical and online shopping)

and their perceptions of Zara as a brand.

The survey had both open ended and close-ended questions to gather data

on both the spontaneous and directed notoriety of the respondents

respectively.

This case study required both qualitative and quantitative data to be

collected to give a clearer view on what the market is really like. The

quantitative tools utilized were:

• Each brand’s contribution to the total sales revenue of Inditex.

• Each of Inditex’s brand number of stores by the end of 2015.

Using qualitative tools enables us to understand the information gathered

in a better way. They include:

• Inditex’s history in order to understand the origin of Zara as a brand.


ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 40

• A history on each brand under Inditex accompanied with its year of

establishment so as to better understand the company.

• Zara’s origin and expansion in order to understand how they managed to

become successful.

• The growth and development of individual areas of Zara to enable us to

understand their development as a whole.

• H&M’s history in order to differentiate it and its strategies from those

employed by Zara.

• Weaknesses and strengths of Zara and the challenges they face so as to

form the brand’s SWOT analysis.

• So as to understand the case tools used it is important to carry out a

literature review.

The approach used in the inductive research is antonymic to that


used in the deductive approach as “It starts by collecting data to explore a
phenomenon, then the theory is generated or build” (Saunders, 2012)

This research falls under the deductive approach as the initial phase

of research involves reviewing the theories and already published literature

under brand management and loyalty and consequently they are tested and

validated by conducting interviews on Zara’s store managers and UK

consumer base. Also, the deductive approach is said to be the most

convenient for master dissertations.

3.1.3 RESEARCH STRATEGY

“In general terms, a strategy is a plan of action to achieve a goal.”

(Saunders, 2012) Choosing the correct strategy enables a researcher to find


ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 41

solutions the research question. Choosing the right strategy also makes

the researcher “achieve a reasonable level of coherence throughout the

research design, which enables to answer particular research question and

meet the research objectives.” (Saunders, 2012). There are a couple of ways

to obtain data when conducting a marketing research:

a) Through asking the individuals


b) Through observation of the target population

(Domegan and Fleming, 2007).

Fleming and Domegan (2007) state that “Survey research is

considered to be a systematic collection of data from a sample of

respondents, usually involving the measurement of a large number of

variables such as: depth and extent of knowledge, attitudes, interests and

opinions, behavioral factors and classification variables, demographic and

socio-economic variables”. Deductive approach and survey strategy are

chosen for this particular study as the researcher states that “survey

strategy is usually associated with a deductive research approach and it is

a common strategy in business and management research.” (Saunders,

2012). Survey strategy is more advantageous when compared to other

research strategies as it “gives researcher more control over the research

process.” (Saunders, 2012) Gathering of data can also be through

interviews as this strategy is “most frequently associated with organization

and method research and interviews”. A survey questionnaire was issued to

respondents via email and also through Facebook for this particular

research.

3.1.4 RESEARCH ETHICS


ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 42

Ethics are imperative for the proper completion of a research study

and therefore should be taken into close consideration. “Ethics are critical

aspects for the success of any research project.” (Saunders, 2012). This

particular study has a high human involvement rate, “business and

management research involves human participants. Ethical concerns are

greatest where research involves human participants.” (Saunders, 2012)

3.1.4.1 TRADITIONAL TYPE ACCESS

Human participation is involved in this study as the retail managers

and customers of Zara in the UK were asked to participate in the research.

A face-to-face interaction between the researcher and the retail managers

was used while a survey was employed to gather data from the consumers

thereby constituting the traditional type access. The researcher explained

the advantages of the study to all consumer participants of the study. In

collection of data from the retail managers, the interviews were properly

organized and the language used was business oriented and professional

normality’s were adhered to. When getting access to data, “Researcher’s

should not attempt to apply any pressure on intended participants to grant

success.” (Saunders, 2012) The researcher did not heave pressure on any

individual to participate in the data gathering process. On agreement of the

retail managers to participate in the research study, an official consent

form was signed by the researcher and the participants.

3.1.4.2 ETHICAL ISSUES DURING DATA COLLECTION

As the data gathering process involves a face-to-face interview the

researcher has to follow professional protocol and normality’s and only use

business oriented English to communicate with the participants. “In face-


ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 43

face interviews the researcher should avoid over questioning and pressing

the participant for a response.” (Saunders, 2012) Putting pressure on

participants is said to “lead to stressful situation for participant.”

(Saunders, 2012), obtained from Sakaran & Bougie, (2009) The managers

will only be interviewed when it is convenient for them and the researcher

will ensure that the interview is wrapped up in the time that the managers

request (Saunders, 2012), citied the work of Sakaran & Bougie, 2009). The

researcher will put these ethical considerations in mind to ensure that the

study is completed effectively and in good time.

3.1.5 METHODOLOGY LIMITATIONS

The study is conducted on a short-term basis and therefore only

focuses on the company so as to complete the study. The study involves

gathering data from retail managers and customers of Zara from Dublin,

Ireland.

4.0 FINDINGS

Creswell states that “data analysis in qualitative research consists

of preparing and organizing the data (i.e., text data as in transcripts, or

image data as in photographs) for analysis, then reducing the data into

themes through a process of coding and condensing the codes, and finally

reporting the data in figures, tables, or a discussion.” (Creswell, 2013). A

better definition of this is given by hart (2000) when he says that it is a

systematic breakdown of data and linking the data to each other after

exploring and analyzing the information. The questionnaires issued were

checked after collection and sent through email to the respondents and
ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 44

posted on Facebook. Appropriate and fitting techniques were used to

validate and interpret the results from the analyzed data.

We were able to obtain a quality mix of data by having participants

across different genders, age groups, professions as well as geographical

locations. This mixture of important variables to the business can be

imperative in assisting the researcher in the analysis of the data gathered

as pertains to the broad understanding of persons and their perceptions.

The study also focuses on the different factors that are considered by

consumers when making purchase decisions as pertains to the topic of

brand identity and management.

Interviews between the researcher and the store managers were

conducted in mid-august of 2015. A total of 4 retail managers and managers

employed at different Zara stores across different locations were asked to

voluntarily take part in the study. However, only two of these managers

accepted to take part in the in-depth interviews to be conducted by the

researcher as the other two cited work and personal reasons as being the

hindrances to them participating in the research.

The interviewees were made aware of the purpose of the research

prior to its commencement and they were also made aware of the private

and confidential nature of their discussions with the researcher. They were

also told that the research interview was going to be recorded and asked if

they were okay with this. They were also told that they could leave the

interview at whatever point in time for whatever reason. The following

insights were gathered from the findings:

4.1 FAST FASHION


ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 45

Zara is a pioneer brand when it comes to the concept of fast fashion.

It is globally known for their ability to produce trendy items rapidly and

distribute them to their stores in international markets. The world had

started observing the blossoming of fashion retailers like H&M, Primark,

Zara, Topshop and Mango and there was no information on what leaps the

industry would take in the future. These firms did however have one

common elemental aspect; they all sought to bring the high culture and

trendy fashion industry to the common consumer and provide inexpensive

fashion items to the masses and make a statement that fashion should be

available for the masses and not be exclusive in nature. The market’s

demand for “adapting merchandising assortment to current and emerging

trends as quickly and effectively as possible” was therefore deemed as

being a core element in this industry category. Competition would therefore

not only be based on price but also on the timeliness of the firms to enable

them to provide to their consumers as fast as possible.

Understanding consumer tastes and their shopping and purchase

behaviour was therefore critical to facilitate the matching of consumer

demands to product supply. However, few retailers were able undertake this

activity. Zara overtook other retailers by being the best in this regard and

was able to create a fitting branding and integrated communications

between designers and its retail stores. They were able to force the hand of

the most conventional fashion houses and lead them to adapt to the new

market requirements, as they feared losing profits to “mass-

merchandisers”.
ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 46

The fast fashion industry’s top 3 firms by the end of 2012 were

Spain’s Zara, America’s Forever 21 and Sweden’s H&M. In Europe however,

Zara and H&M with Ireland’s low cost firm Primark and Spain’s Mango

increasing the competitive pressure in the market dominated the market.

4.2 THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY

Inditex had developed and parented over one hundred firms that

operated in design, manufacturing, textile and distribution. This is an

indication of Aeker’s Brand Equity model. Inditex commenced on its global

expansion strategy in the 1990s as it acquired and established new brands.

In 2001, Their IPO had accumulated a 50% stock price increase and

Amancio Ortega rose to from being an errand boy to becoming the richest

man in Spain (fourth richest globally in 2014). Inditex controlled 8 fashion

retail brands by the end of 2012 with Zara being its flagship brand and had

more than 6000 stores in 86 international markets. Their company’s worth

was estimated at around €15 billion and they had over 120,314 people

(Exhibit 2 provides key details on the group’s performance). Over half of

their employees were based outside of Spain and an estimated 80% of their

workers were women averagely aged 26.

Individual retail chains (business units) had independent

management and each had their own strategies, models of manufacturing,

brand images, stores, designs and financial performance results. The

performance of brands that had more success such as Zara offered “best

practices” that was supposed to be imitated by the rest of the brands to

ensure effectiveness and efficiency when it came to operations and

expansion. Inditex also promoted immense autonomy and employee


ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 47

responsibility despite the nature of the worker’s function and they were

supposed to provide feedback on all elements of operations in order to

enhance the overall system’s performance. This emphasized the crucial

“Inditex offers a dynamic and international environment where ideas are

valued with a strong bet on internal promotion. We believe in job stability

and continuous training.”

4.3 THE “ZARA WAY”

Zara was the most globally recognized brand of all of Inditex’s

brands as well as its oldest having officially been established in 1975 prior

to the establishment of the Inditex Group. The company’s first substantial

milestone was Ortega’s establishment of “Confecciones GOA” as a retailer

that sold intimate clothing to ladies. However, only until 1975 was the first

Zara store opened as it sought to sell “contemporary fashion of medium

quality at a good price”. The brand’s global debut came in 1988 when a

retail store was established in Oporto, Portugal and by the end of 2012 the

brand had opened more than 1900 retail stores in 86 foreign markets and

their operations accounted for 66% of the group’s revenue.

The fast fashion industry accommodates an intensely specific

business model considering the rapidly developing and immediate response

market that it operates in where brand loyalty is key. Most firms

conventionally outsourced the apparel production process to other

companies so as to lower operational costs and improve their flexibility.

However, Zara introduced a vertically integrated chain where it had full

control over garment manufacturing and outsourcing was only used for
ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 48

“basic” apparels whose ordering could be made in advance and was easily

adaptable to future styles as required.

4.3.1 PRODUCTION & DESIGN

Zara chose to go against the grain followed in the industry and retain

approximately half of its production within the confines of the group under

the operation of twenty of their production factories. Inditex bought

garments that were undyed from countries such as Turkey, Italy, China and

India through a purchasing office in Hong Kong and another in Barcelona.

Fabrics and other items that were not as elemental in the product

manufacturing process were bought as finished items in minimal quantities

which enabled Zara to respond quickly to changes in market demand by

producing products and distributing them hastily to their stores (items

could be distributed to stores in as few as three weeks after demand was

identified). Production from outsourced firms did not prove to be a

hindrance to Zara as 80% of such production was carried out in Europe

while the remaining 20% was carried out in Asia and other countries with

low wages where only basic items and less trendy apparel was

manufactured.

The fabrics would be received at Arteixo and sent to the factories

close-by for color and cut then sent to 400 traditional sewers and

assemblers in Northern Portugal and Galicia. Inditex Group did not own

these stores but had integral ties to them and their owners and assisted in

the supply of their production requirements. When sewing and assembly

was done the items would then be taken back to Arteixo for labeling,

pressing, assurance of quality and finally distribution. All of Zara’s products


ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 49

would go through Arteixo before final shipping to international markets

regardless of their origins.

Just as other fashion retailers did, Zara introduced their apparel

under two seasonal collections: fall/winter and spring/summer. This is a

demonstration of its brand awareness. However, unlike some of their rivals,

they replenished their stores with products throughout the entire year.

Their collection was divided into the women, children’s and men’s sections.

Accessories such as shoes and fragrances further complemented all these

lines. Their main fashion line that catered for women was further

segmented into Zara Basic (for more informal looks for younger

consumers), TRF (sporty apparel for young consumers) and Zara Woman

(professional and executive trendy designs).

Zara had a large team of designers (approximately 200) unlike other

retailers who mostly used small design teams that were more elite and

experienced. The brand had a flat organizational system that planned and

presented 50% of their elemental collection on “first guess basis” half a

year prior to the launch of each season. Reminders would be made through

the year using real-time data gathered from the stores by the designers.

These designers were tasked with bringing more than 11000 products to

the market annually.

The items produced by Zara were meant to be fast moving products

so as to reduce the possibility of inventory build-up and slow turnaround in

retail stores. This translates to perceived brand quality hence driving the

consumer traffic. This was also mean to enable the brand to produce items

while they were still trendy and to pilot new merchandise in certain select
ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 50

stores before global distribution. The immense nature of control and

flexibility that Zara had enabled them to have a marginal failure rate of only

1% as compared to the industry’s 10% average by conducting 35% of

design functions, 40-5-% of finished items purchases and 85% of internal

production at the beginning of the prior season thereby enabling them to

ensure that their systems were run effectively and efficiently and giving

them a large competitive advantage

4.3.2 RETAILING & STORE OPERATIONS

All of Zara’s retail stores (1900 in number) receive shipments two

times in a week with new products that have been managed in the central

distribution center (Arteixo) and whose orders have been made by store

managers globally. Zara, just like Inditex, had owned its Distribution

Centers (DC); a building spanning 40000 sq. meters in Arteixo with smaller

buildings located across Southern America. As aforementioned, all

shipments passed through Arteixo regardless of their location of origin.

Store managers had complete control and autonomy when it came to

ordering inventory and managing it in their respective stores; this included

product placement, information to regional stores and controlling supply of

employee uniforms. The retail store segment had always been the central

focus for Zara’s organizational system and had been its face and its source

of market data on what consumers demanded. The stores were designed

minimally and had huge windows and were therefore comfortable for the

consumer and “created an atmosphere of chaos and excitement”. The

stores were sized at averagely 1400 sq. meters and had lights that were

clear, white ceilings and walls in order to draw the consumer’s attention to
ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 51

the clothes. Displays on windows were changed on a monthly basis and

refurbishments done every four years.

Individual store interiors and displays were designed in Arteixo

where a 1500 sq. meter store and twenty-five spaces for windows were

available to enable them to plan for subsequent changes to stores. On

completion of the final design, the pictures would be sent to the store

managers and designers would be sent to the stores to implement the new

design concepts. Individual stores were however meant to adapt to and

complement their environment and at the same not compromise the overall

image of the brand and store.

4.3.3 MARKETING

Zara’s marketing strategy was extremely different from the rest of

their rivals in the retail segment. Most of their competitors advertised

heavily throughout the year whereas Zara invested little to none of their

revenue in advertisement. Cost expenditure for Zara accounted for

approximately 0.3% of their total revenue while the industry average was

roughly 3-4%.

4.3.3.1 POINT-OF-SALE (POS) ADVERTISING

Communication to its consumers was mainly implemented through

their PoS and product offerings. The marketing director of Zara was

therefore tasked with yearly gathering, size of runs of production as well as

individual product quantities and defining the image of their stores and

product displays.
ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 52

Their stores gave their financial teams the much needed information

on consumer demand and consequently Zara chose to invest in locating

their stores in locations that enabled them to set the right environment for

their consumers and letting their products “speak”. The rapid cycles of

production enabled their stores to give out an aura of “opportunity and

scarcity” where customers were aware of the need to buy products as soon

as they saw them as they knew the products might not be on the shelves

the next day or even during their next visit to the store.

All elements of the stores, right down to the employees, were

designed to never be a bother to the clients. Garment combinations to form

outfits would show the offer in a way that would assist the consumer in

figuring how different pieces would match together and only one size would

be available for every product to enable the stores to display more

products, the tables on which products were displayed were low and

synced well with the overall store’s image to enable consumers to view

“the whole” store once they entered and employee training taught them to

only approach customers if they were requested to.

By having a rapid cycle of product supply to the stores customers

were encouraged to visit the stores more often as they sought to get a hold

of the trendiest items at a “bargain”. This made the average store visits for

every customer average at 17 visits annually as compared to their rivals

whose customers only visited their stores around 4-5 times every year.

4.3.3.2 PUBLIC RELATIONS


ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 53

Zara had a large reliance on unpaid PR and word of mouth from their

loyal customers. Their public relations originated from pictures of

celebrities who were spotted wearing clothing from Zara (Kate Middleton

wore several apparel pieces from Zara and this built the brand’s image).

Also, research had shown that Zara was effective in relating its brand to its

corporate identity and therefore any alteration to either would lead to

detrimental effects to the brand. Consistency was therefore identified as a

core element to the business’ stellar performance.

4.3.3.3 ONLINE

Zara was conspicuously a late user of online commerce as the

company had had a site since 2010 but only started using it as a sales

channel a year later. Zara’s managers hesitance towards joining in the e-

commerce wave had been as a result of their success in the physical retail

segment but the increasing penetration of internet use and their huge

reliance on consumer’s ability to spread the word about the brand led them

to believing that establishing an e-commerce platform would enable the

consumers to interact better with the brand prior to purchase. After

evaluating the effectiveness of an online strategy in capturing the interest

of consumers prior to purchase the brand tool measures to establish its

first online commerce strategy in 2011.

4.4 PROS AND CONS OF ZARA’S (INDITEX’S) MULTI-BRAND STORE


STRATEGY

A multi-brand strategy refers to a company marketing different

products that belong to similar categories or ones that are related but

using different brand names (Shankar & Carpenter, 2012). In the modern
ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 54

landscape of retail business that is highly competitive in nature companies

can not only focus on an individual demographic of consumers but also

have to cater for the increasing range of tastes, preferences and budgets of

consumers. When compared to business-to-business model industries, it is

clear that B2C companies have to pay significantly more attention to how

they segment their markets so as to increase their influence on customers

who have a wide number of considerations to make before making

purchase decisions.

Its several brands enable it to cater for the deficiencies regarding

price and quality in their targeted markets. For instance, Zara provides a

variety of style options for several age groups, Pull and Bear on the other

hand is focused on fashion for the youths, Massimo Dutti’s designs ooze

elegance and class and is suited for more professional consumers, Bershka

is famous for their avant-garde apparel lines, Stradivarius caters for trendy

young women.

4.4.1 ADVANTAGES OF MULTI-BRAND STRATEGY

By using the multi-brand strategy Inditex has been able to penetrate

into several consumer segments (as per the behaviors, tastes and needs of

the market) in an effective way and this has consequently resulted in the

parent company having a considerably high market share (Dawson &

Mukoyama, 2013). By having different brands Inditex is able to capitalize on

consumers who interchange between brands frequently (Matic & Vabale,

2015). There is also internal competition created by the different brand

managers who are seeking to promote their individual brands and boost

their sales. Eventually, this will improve Inditex’s overall profitability. This
ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 55

also enables them to create economies of scale as the multiple-brand

strategy facilitates sharing costs such as sales, advertising, distribution,

production and merchandising. It also enables Inditex to protect itself from

bad repertoire of one brand affecting the performance of other brands and

therefore if one brand faces challenges these problems will not be

transmitted to the other brands. This strategy has also increased the

group’s visibility in international markets.

4.4.2 DISADVANTAGES OF MULTI-BRAND STRATEGY

By having several brands Inditex risks cannibalizing their own profits

through sales in other brands of theirs. Management of several brands is

also a difficult operation for Inditex. This also raises consumer

expectations of new brands as they are used to the stellar quality that they

have received from other brands and they expect this to continue and

improve. Equity dilution may also happen as there is pressure to maintain

the performance of highly valued brands and this may leave some brands

unattended to. Negative performance or feedback on one brand may also

have detrimental effects on how consumers view other brands

The multi-brand strategy can be exponentially advantageous when it comes

to ensuring the continuity of profit generation but at the same time Inditex

should protect themselves against the significant costs and positioning

their brands within the same industry.

4.5 ZARA’S APPROACH TO MINIMIZE RISK OF “CANNIBALIZATION”

Cannibalization is defined as when a company drops market share of

one brand or product as a result of introducing a competing brand or

product within the same market (Fernie, et al., 2015). Cannibalization


ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 56

occurs when a product or brand captures the interest of the existing

market as opposed to creating a new market as was envisioned for the

product or brand.

In the constantly altering conditions within the market the fear of a

company cannibalizing its own products as a result of using multi-brand

strategy is extremely high and this also affects firms that do not use

multiple brand portfolios but produce products within the same price range

(Obal, et al., 2015). The possibility of cannibalization happening

exponentially increases when the firm uses the same channels to supply

the different products as well as when prices are similar as firms are

encouraged to use different channels for different target markets to ensure

maximum optimization of processes (Boone & Kurtz, 2015). Inditex’s

cannibalization has been as a result of them having similar categories of

products, pricing methods, targeted markets, presentation of their stores

and brand images.

Inditex’s decision to increase the number of brands managed was as

a result of their intent to increase the percentage of the market which they

operated and their mindset was that by introducing these brands they

would become more competitive as opposed to the thought that they would

cannibalize their own products; they therefore decided to target different

segmentations of the market with different products (Bharadwaj, et al.,

2011). Inditex have also located their stores strategically far from each

other so as to further reduce the possibility of cannibalizing each other.

The differentiation strategy employed by Zara is facilitated by them

offering diverse styles to their consumers (informal, formal, suits, dresses


ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 57

for festive occasions) as well as producing apparel for women, children and

men; Massimo Dutti is their elegant brand whose style is chic, classic and

elegant; Pull & Bear is their urban brand whose style is for younger target

markets such as teenagers; Stradivarius is a mid-tier brand intended for the

young woman; Bershka is a brand aimed at young ladies with a tinge of

youth to their style; Oysho caters for the women’s lingerie needs by offering

clothing to wear during the night and during bath-times and this brand has

also been expanded to cater for small girls and infants; Zara Home supplies

high quality household items and has significantly benefited from the

reputation of Zara as the parent brand; Uterque caters for consumer needs

for accessories that are reminiscent of English clubs and their aim is to

become competitive in terms of price and compete with the more

established and well-known brands within the market.

Zara’s strategy has enabled them to use their existent retail brand

image and leverage the customer’s trust with already existent brands to

build their other brands and has effectively lowered the risks of

cannibalization within their multi-brand strategy. They should however

protect themselves from the risks of cannibalization apparent from its

online commerce business.

5.0 CONCLUSION

The researcher spend more than sixty days to gather information and

analyse the data collected in order to offer information on Inditex’s

strategies. The final phase of the research process is therefore

summarizing all the research study findings and putting these insights

forward to the users of the information. From the research it is evident that
ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 58

a brand represents an individual’s vision; however it is necessary for a

group of people to work together towards ensuring that this vision is

achieved and the brand becomes successful. The research shows that

interplay of a variety of factors influence consumer purchase decisions and

affect their loyalty towards certain brands. The factors studied and that

works towards the benefit of Zara are: quality, price and a wide offering of

products. However, Zara’s secret strategical strength that was not

expounded in detail in the research is their branding. Several researchers

have studied and analyzed Zara’s branding but the company does not

include it in their official organizational strategies. They have a very

flexible chain of supply that assists them in meeting the rapidly changing

market demand that is common in the fast fashion industry. It also helps

them to rapidly imitate fashion off of catwalks and runways and into their

stores. Despite the rapid advancement of technology in the market, Zara

has remained true to its traditions and has ensured that consumer

feedback on products and services gets to the company prior to the

production of new clothes. Therefore, from the research study conducted, a

brand can be defined as a strategic mix of a number of factors that enable

it to become successful and its success is hinged on its ability to retain its

traditional values and not jeopardizing its identity.

Despite Zara’s ability to inspire competition on a global scale, Oscar

Marcote retained his hesitance. There was evidence of stagnation and

slowing down of sales as the brand opened new stores and perhaps the

consumers had become tired of only being able to see what was offered in

the stores. Therefore there was a suggestion to begin personal shopping in

a number of stores and to allow this service to customers as a free service.


ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 59

The benefit was that the idea could potentially improve sales especially in

the more premium store sites but the costs to be incurred to offer such a

service to the consumers free may greatly overweigh the revenue benefits.

Research also showed that “not being bothered” was one of the most

alluring factors about Zara’s operations so the question was why did they

have to begin being bothered? Innovation remained a core business

concept for the brand and having rivals such as Primark dominating

“basics” and doing it at relatively reduced costs made Oscar look back on

his communication decisions for Zara as a brand.

The question was therefore whether Zara should overhaul its

communication strategy and make use of a new outlet such as advertising

or if the solution was to add certain components to already existent

channels such as by using personal shopping or an e-commerce presence.

Online commerce had already proven to be beneficial for H&M as they used

an online “fitting room” and this gave the firm a competitive edge therefore

the belief was that Zara could use the same concept but implement it

differently so as to gain their own edge in the market. Another suggestion

was to try and improve the efficiency of the existing communication

channels and strategies. There were several questions on how Zara would

be able to remain competitive while still remaining true to their core

business values and beliefs.

Zara’s model of operation accrues number of benefits to the brand such as

enabling them to effectively differentiate themselves from the rest of the

market. However, their business model also presents a number of demerits

that can have a detrimental impact on ensuring sustainable growth and


ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 60

development. Zara’s first store in America was opened in 1989 in New York.

The brand has largely been unable to replicate their success in the

European market in the much larger and profitable American market. This

failure may be attributed to the difference in fashion tastes and

preferences between American and European consumers. They have also

been unable to replicate the strong branding system existing in Europe in

the American market and this has led to them being unable to penetrate

into the market. In the European market Zara has a strong strategy that

includes being able to produce quickly, rapid distribution and short lead

times. However, their strategy also has some weaknesses. Many authors

regard vertical integration as a strategy that potentially increases profits

and reduces risks; however the drawbacks are still equally important to

recognize. Vertical integration often leads to the inability to acquire

economies of scale. A focus on speedy and recurrent introduction of new

products incurs increased costs as well. They have higher research and

development costs. They also have elevated costs due to the constant

changeover of production techniques to create their different clothing lines.

6.0 RECOMMENDATION

The researcher uses this particular case study as a means by which

they can interestingly give information about the business strategies

employed by Zara and the inherent challenges faced by the brand as they

seek to retain their competitive edge and improve their success in the

future. The primary objective of the research was to bring life to a narrative

that challenges readers to want to discuss the operational strategies of


ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 61

Zara and the main challenges the brand faces as well as give them a

learning experience on the operations of Zara as a brand and the Inditex

parent company group.

In conclusion, it is the author’s belief that this particular case study

is a depiction of the general operations of companies, despite the different

industries that they belong to, and how these companies oftentimes do not

conform to academically taught strategies. This case study shows that

certain strategic theories may be academically correct but may not be

applicable in real life situations as real life decisions often fall within “grey

areas” and all decisions made have costs as well as benefits

6.1 OVERALL RECOMMENDATION

Zara took action on the realization that purchase behaviors of their

consumers were changing as the market and industry advanced and such

rapid reaction to changes in the market enabled them to establish

themselves as leaders in the fast fashion market.

Zara are always in the search for upcoming trends in the city streets

as well as on fashion runways, televisions, magazines and online. They

make sure that they are aware of their customers’ current needs and due to

their fast and efficient branding they are able to produce the trendy apparel

and distribute to their stores where they sell them at inexpensive prices.

Zara pioneered a new dawn in the fashion industry by having a fast

branding that enables them to follow up on trends and this has forced the

haute couture fashion market to rethink its strategies.


ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 62

Zara is able to be aware of trendy fashion items, design them,

produce and distribute the products to all their stores within less than

three weeks. Zara retailers have new products on a weekly basis that are a

representation of the latest trends in the fashion industry.

Zara’s branding operates on a vertical integration model and this

therefore gives them full control over the most important phases of

production; this enables them to create a system that few, if any,

competitors can imitate. Production is centralized in Portugal and Spain

thereby giving them flexibility in lead times, frequency and quantities due

to the close proximity to their headquarters in Spain. In the past,

researchers have used studies on consumption behaviour to understand

consumer purchase trends. Schewe et al., (2000) posits that such studies

are designed after generational cohorts which is the best way to create

segmentation within markets as individuals in the same segment share

common factors age, consumer motivation, beliefs and values.

Williams and Page explain that “Baby Boomers” who are persons

older than 52 years “are less price sensitive if they believe they are getting

a superior product and good value”.

Market research shows that majority of individuals of this age rarely

visit Zara’s physical retail stores and those who actually do go there to

view new products as their preference is the physical retail stores. People

in this age category that purchased from the online store did so because of

the larger number of products available online or as a result of lacking the

product in the physical store.


ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 63

The second generational group is “Generation X” who is aged

between 38 and 52. William (2005) states that this age group seeks

convenience in all activities.

Several members of this age group rarely visit the online platforms

and when they do they only want to be aware of new products, as they

would rather purchase at the physical retail stores. Most who purchased

from the e-commerce site did so because of the ease and convenience or

because the product was out of stock at the physical store.

The next generational group is “Generation Y” also known as

millennials (aged 21-37). These people perceive shopping as a form of

entertainment (Parment, 2009) and are the target market for e-commerce

(Forrester, 2012).

Several members of this age group often visit Zara’s online site and

purchase from there because of the ease and convenience of online

shopping. The items they want are also mostly unavailable at the physical

retail stores and this forces them to use online shopping.

The last generational group is “Generation Z” (under 21 years) and

these individuals have been molded by technology.

Most of these individuals visit the online site just so as to view the

available new products, as they prefer to purchase at the physical retail

stores. Majority have never made any online purchase.

BIBLIOGRAPHY
ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 64

Arnold, D., D’Andrea, G. (2003). “Zara”. Harvard Business School

Baykal, J., & Delagarde, M. (2011). “Differentiation Strategies in the Fashion


Industry.”

Bhardwaj, V., & Fairhurst, A. (2010). “Fast fashion: Response to Changes in


the Fashion Industry.” The International Review of Retail, Distribution and
Consumer Research, 20(1), 165–173. Doi: 10.1080/09593960903498300

Borden, N. H. (1964). “The Concept of the Marketing Mix.”

Bruce, M., & Daly, L. (2006). “Buyer Behaviour for Fast Fashion.” Journal of
Fashion

Marketing and Management, 10(3), 329–344. Doi:


10.1108/13612020610679303

Cachon, G. P., & Swinney, R. (2011). “The Value of Fast Fashion: Quick
Response, Enhanced Design, and Strategic Consumer Behavior.”
Management Science, 57(4), 778–795.

Cheng, R., Hines, T., & Grime, I. (2008). “Desired and Perceived Identities of
Fashion Retailers.” European Journal of Marketing, 42(5/6), 682–701. Doi:
10.1108/03090560810862589

Comstock, B., Gulati, R., Liguori, S. (2010). “Unleashing the Power of


Marketing.” Harvard Business Review

Cuc, S., & Tripa, S. (2007). “Strategy and Sustainable Competitive


Advantage – The case of Zara Fashion Chain.”

Dopico, L. G. (2005). “Zara- Inditex and the Growth of Fast Fashion.” Dutta,
D. (2002). “The Speed of Fashion.”

Dutta, D. (2003). “The Speed of Fashion Part II.”

Fredriksson, C. (2011). “Retail and Fashion – A Happy Marriage? The Making


of a Fashion Industry Research Design.” Culture Unbound: Journal of
Current Cultural Research, 3, 43–54. Doi:10.3384/cu.2000.1525.11343

Gabrielli, V., Baghi, I., & Codeluppi, V. (2013). “Consumption Practices of


Fast Fashion Products: a Consumer-based Approach.” Journal of Fashion
Marketing and Management, 17(2), 206–224. Doi: 10.1108/JFMM-10-2011-
0076

Ghemawat, P., Nueno, J. (2006). “Zara: Fast Fashion”. Harvard Business


School

Bruce, M., and Daly, L. (2006), “Buyer behaviour for fast fashion”, Journal of
Fashion Marketing and Management, vol. 10 No. 3, pp. 329-344
ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 65

Brun, A., and Castelli, C. (2008), “Branding strategy in the fashion industry:
Developing a portfolio model depending on product, retail channel and
brand”, International Journal of Production Economics, vol. 116, pp. 169-
181.

Hines, Tony, and M. Bruce. 2001. Fashion marketing – Contemporary issues.


Oxford: Butterworth-Heinemann.

Hines,T. (2007) Branding Strategies, Structures and Relationships, in Hines,


T. and M.Bruce. Eds. Fashion Marketing Contemporary Issues 2nd Edn.
Oxford, Elsevier

Creswell, J. (2013). Qualitative inquiry and research design. Los Angeles:


SAGE Publications.

Creswell, J. and Plano Clark, V. (2007). Designing and conducting mixed


methods research. Thousand Oaks, Calif.: SAGE Publications.

Kotler, P., Keller, K.L., Brady, M., Goodman, M. & Hansen, T. (2012). “Chapter

18: Managing Process, People and Physical Evidence at the Consumer

Interface”. In Marketing Management, 2nd Edition, Pearson, pp. 736-769.

Levitt, T. (1980). “Marketing Success through Differentiation - of Anything.”

Harvard Business Review.

Lopez, C., & Fan, Y. (2009). “Internationalisation of the Spanish fashion

brand Zara.” Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 13(2), 279–296.

Doi: 10.1108/13612020910957770

Lovelock, C., Wirtz, J. (2011). “Part Two Applying the 4Ps of Marketing to

Services” & “Part Three: Managing the Consumer Interface”. In Services

Marketing. People, Technology, Strategy, Global Edition, Pearson, pp. 102-

330.
ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 66

Lynn, H., Bennett, S., & Joines, H. (n.d.). “H&M vs. Zara Comparing

Marketing Strategies.”

Stephen S. Porter Cindy Claycomb, (1997),"The influence of brand

recognition on retail store image", Journal of Product & Brand

Management, Vol. 6 Iss 6 pp. 373 - 387

Southampton Solent University, (n.d.). Reflective thinking and writing:

Kolb's Learning Cycle. [online] Available at:

http://mycourse.solent.ac.uk/mod/book/view.php?id=2732&chapterid=1112

Stewart, TA 2004, 'Bound to Fail, or Set Up to Succeed?', Harvard Business

Review, November, Business Source Complete, EBSCOhost, viewed 25

August 2015.

Sharp, Byron and Newstead, Kate (2010), “Loyalty is not the Holy Grail”,

Admap

Solomon, M., Bamossy, G., Askegaard, S. and Hogg, M. (2010). Consumer

behaviour. 4th ed. Harlow, England: Prentice Hall/Financial Times

Tiltman, David (2014), “Brand Strategy in the 21st century: inslghts from
Guy Murphy and Adam Morgan”, Event Reportsm APG Birth Thinking on
Strategy.
ZARA BRANDING STRATEGIES IN THE UK 67

Potrebbero piacerti anche