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06-12-2005,
#1
04:25 AM
Hotrodguru Wheel Bearing Replacement - Guru's guide w/pics

Scoo by Guru
Member#:
37210
Join Date: May
2003
Chapter/Region:
Inte rnational
Location: in a
Shotgun House
FTW !
Vehicle:
2002 Tarmac
Bugeye
2007 Muddy FJ
Cruiser
So what was supposed to be a nice beautiful Saturday to go driving turned into a get under the Subbie and bust out
the tools to wrench day. For the last month what I thought was maybe tire wear causing some road noise turned out
to be a bearing going bad. It was confirmed yesterday when I took a slow turn and heard a knocking, popping,
something’s just not right type sound. Not bad for 90k miles on the car with LOTS of track days. So after much
research and reading I decided to tackle the job. Before you start these are a few things you MUST HAVE or at least
forums.nasioc.com/…/showthread.php?… 1/30
have access to (to get an idea or picture hit up http://www.snapon.com/):
1. Ball joint / tie rod separator.

2. A nice press.
3. Bearing separator.
4. Bearing & seal drivers (really large sockets will work as well)
Alot of good info was found here on NABISCO but none of the threads had pictures nor pointed out some of the
troublesome things I ran into. The Subbie manual (The PDF version I have) makes things kinda complex. After starting
on the left side of the vehicle the following illustrations and photos show the order of sequence I did the right side with
which seemed to go really smooth after having first done the left. Please use this thread to assist you and not
nec essarily as a guideline. The threads I searched and found assisted me quite a bit and hope this adds to them. If
you've done this and maybe did it in a different order or with some easier steps please feel free to provide some
feedback.
Just wanna see the pics, click the link (Some pics are NOT IN ORDER) -
http://www.revo1.com/subbiebearing/index.htm
Guru
Disassembly
1. Well once you figure out you're going to need to replace the bearings it's best to do them as a set. Actually
it should be the only way. You'll need to get the bearings, outer seal, inner seals, snap rings and metal bands
for CV Boots.
2. To start like stated in the pic, you'll have to get the 1 1/4 axle nut loose. Easiest to break it loose with tires
on the ground, if you can't have someone hold the brakes.
3. Remove all the standard brake items, caliper, pads, and caliper bracket. You'll need a 12mm, 14mm and a
17mm.
Wheel Bearings www.PartsHighway.com
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Front Axle Nut Yahoo.com

Everything to do with Front Axle Nut items.
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06-12-2005,
#2
04:25 AM
Hotrodguru
Scoo by Guru
Member#: 4. Now that you've removed the brake caliper and other items, place them aside and secure the brake caliper
37210 on top (zip tie to the spring) to get it out of the way. Remove or loosen the following items (this is the order I
Join Date: May did it in).
2003
Chapter/Region:
Inte rnational 1. ABS sensor - 12mm.
Location: in a 2. Upper AND lower ball joints (picture only shows upper) - 19mm.
Shotgun House
FTW ! 3. Strut bolts (leave these in loose till you remove the CV boot bands) - 19mm.
Vehicle:
2002 Tarmac
Bugeye This im age ha s be e n re size d. C lick this bar to vie w the full im age . The original im age is size d 800x 1066.
2007 Muddy FJ
2007 Muddy FJ
Cruiser
After a good recommendation by Gary S, I decided to update this pic. You have an option here, I do think it's a
tad bit easier to loosen the 14mm and drop the A-arm.
5. Now it's time to remove the ball joints, CV boot bands and then removing the strut tower bolts.
EDIT - The following step (the next 2 pictures) IS NOT NECESARY to change
out the wheel bearings. I removed the bands and CV boots solely to replace
the grease while I was at it.
Loosen and remove the 19mm bolts that hold the strut tower to the hub.
6. Now everything’s off and you're ready to remove the hub and take it to a shop, the garage or wherever you
have a press and bearing tools.
Last edited by Hotrodguru; 06-25-2005 at 01:21 PM.
06-12-2005,
#3
04:26 AM
Hotrodguru
Scoo by Guru
Member#: 6. Now its time to disassembly the hub. I think it’s easiest to explain simply by referring to the pics. The hub
37210 assembly does have to be disassembled in this order.
Join Date: May
2003
Chapter/Region: 1. Press the hub out (inside out).
Inte rnational 2. Press the bearing out (outside in).
Location: in a 3. If needed use the bearing separator to remove the outer bearing that tends to stay on.
Shotgun House
FTW !
10/1/2010
FTW !
Wheel Bearing Replacement - Guru's gu…
Vehicle:
2002 Tarmac
Bugeye
2007 Muddy FJ
Cruiser
NICE!
Last edited by Hotrodguru; 08-17-2005 at 09:17 AM.
06-12-2005,
#4
04:26 AM
Hotrodguru
Scoo by Guru
Member#: Assembly of Hub

37210
Join Date: May Press the following items in this order.
2003
Chapter/Region:
Inte rnational 1. Bearing (inside out)
Location: in a 2. Seal (outer seal, before inserting hub)
Shotgun House
FTW ! 3. Hub (outside in)
Vehicle: 4. Seal (inner), the seal with the lip is the inner seal, lip goes pointing towards the axle and acts as a dust
2002 Tarmac shield
Bugeye
2007 Muddy FJ
10/1/2010
2007 Muddy FJ
Wheel Bearing Replacement - Guru's gu…
Cruiser
06-12-2005,
#5
04:26 AM
Hotrodguru
Scoo by Guru
Member#: Assembly of hub back on car.

37210
Join Date: May This is simple and you’re home free now. Make sure to take the opportunity at this time to clean out all the old
2003
Chapter/Region: grease from the CV Joint and replacing it with some nice new stuff. I like the Lucas Red “N” Tacky #2 which is
Inte rnational good up to 540F. Once you freshly grease it, all you have to do is assemble it in the reverse order of which
Location: in a you disassembled. Make sure to torque all the bolts back to factory specs. Last thing to do is to tighten the
Shotgun House
FTW ! axle nut and bending it down to lock on the axle. I had someone hold the brakes when I tightened it up and
Vehicle: that was it.
2002 Tarmac
Bugeye
Bugeye
2007 Muddy FJ
Cruiser
Breakdown on front axle assembly
This im age ha s be e n re size d. C lick this bar to vie w the full im age . The original im age is size d 821x 409.
This im age ha s be e n re size d. C lick this bar to vie w the full im age . The original im age is size d 820x 433.
06-12-2005, 12:52 PM #6
BIGSKYWRX
Scoo by Guru
Member#: 7958 Thank you kind Sir! We (me ) have been wanting to see a nicely
Join Date: Jul 2001 outlined tutorial for a long time.
Location: Plains of Ea ste rn
Montana
Vehicle: Couple of questions if I may- the sockets used to press out/in are
09 GH B+ common sizes- you don't recall how big the biggest one was by
chance?
What's the purpose of the bearing seperator? Does the used bearing
need to be seperated?
good tip on the CV grease- are the bands diffic ult to reinstall - how is it
done?
Did you repack the oem bearings w/ any "spec ial grease? Would this be
diffic ult to do if one wanted to (I've seen a couple of high temp greases
mentioned in previous wheel bearing threads)?
Thanks again!
Mike
06-12-2005, 03:14 PM #7
Patrick Olsen
NA SIOC Supporter
Member#: 120 I'm with Mike, this is something I've wanted to see a good tutorial on
Join Date: Jul 1999 for a while. I think I might have a left front wheel bearing going, but I
Chapter/Region: AKIC wasn't sure it was something I could do myself.
Location: W he re the Navy
se nds m e ...
Vehicle: The only question I have is why did you remove the band from the CV
1997 Legacy 2.5GT boot? Based on personal experience (I've replaced both my front axles
QuickSilver Metallic
in the past couple years) you should be able to just pull the outer
splined portion right out of the hub without touching the CV boot itself,
espec ially since the steering knuc kle is unbolted from the strut. There
should be plenty of play there. That would save you from some messy
work. Or is there something else I'm missing?
And I guess I have the same question as Mike about repacking the
wheel bearing with "better" grease. I seem to recall that Gary Sheehan
had wheel bearing problems on his USTCC car due to the extreme heat
he was putting into the brakes, and I vaguely recall him saying they
disassembled the OEM bearings to repack them with higher temp
grease.
Pat Olsen
'97 Legacy 2.5GT sedan
06-12-2005, 03:17 PM #8
root
Scoo by Spe cialist
Member#: 55854 Yippy! I've been hoping someone would write this up with photos.
Join Date: Fe b 2004
Location: C e ntral FL
Vehicle:
2004 STi
Blue/silver
06-12-2005, 03:37 PM #9
Arnie
Scoo by Guru
Member#: 1725 Yeah, SubySpecialties out here in SoCal does the same with their
Join Date: Jun 2000 bearing installs. They completely clean out the stock grease and
Chapter/Region: Inte rnational replace it with high quality high temp race grease.
Location: Ham burg,
De utschland
Vehicle:
02 dentedrustedbug
www.RaceDotCom.com
06-12-2005, 03:58 PM #10
fragment
Scoo by Spe cialist
Member#: 8050 Nice!

Join Date: Jul 2001
Chapter/Region: W . C anada I just printed it to a PDF in case your pics go away at some time in the
Location: Buge ye EJ207 -
T3T04S future.
Vehicle:
2007 Wagon VF36 I always wanted to buy a press, now I have an excuse.
06-12-2005, 08:08 PM #11
GarySheehan
Scoo by Spe cialist
Member#: 2450 Good write-up.

Join Date: Se p 2000
Chapter/Region: BAIC I would recommend unbolting the lower balljoint from the upright rather
Location: SF Bay Are a
Vehicle: than pulling the balljoint out of the control arm. Much less work and risk
1996 GST Motorsports of damage by unbolting from upright. Unless, of course, the balljoint is
Time Attack "L" - White damaged and needs to be replac ed anyway.
Gary
Sheehan Motor Rac ing
www.teamSMR.com
06-12-2005, 08:14 PM #12
BLACK02WAGON
Scoo by Spe cialist
Member#: 32574 Absolutely exceptional write up.

Join Date: Fe b 2003
Chapter/Region: South East Nice work
Location: North C arolina
Vehicle:
2004 STi
WRB 402whp/400wtq
06-12-2005, 08:27 PM #13
Hotrodguru
Scoo by Guru
Q uote :
Member#: 37210
Join Date: May 2003 Originally Posted by BIGSKYWRX
Chapter/Region: Inte rnational
Location: in a Shotgun House the sockets used to press out/in are common sizes- you don't
FTW ! recall how big the biggest one was by chance?
Vehicle:
2002 Tarmac Bugeye
2007 Muddy FJ Cruiser What's the purpose of the bearing seperator? Does the used
bearing need to be seperated?
are the bands difficult to reinstall - how is it done?
The sockets you can use will be pretty huge, I believe about 2 inches
or larger. Luckily at my friends shop they work on 18 wheelers so they
had an assortment of big sockets.
As for the bearing separator, well when we pushed the hub off the
bearing the lower bearing on both assemblies stayed on. You use the
bearing separator to clamp around the bearing allowing you to push the
axle out while holding the bearing.
Q uote :
Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen

why did you remove the band from the CV boot?
And I guess I have the same question as Mike about repacking

the wheel bearing with "better" grease.
Well I just removed the band bec ause my car had 90k miles on it. Lots
of track days and lots of standing water in Houston. Just wanted to
clean it out and replace with some new grease.
As for replacing the bearing with higher temp grease. I don't know if it's
really necessary but lots of people have said so. I think I was lucky to
get sooo many miles on my bearings. Luckily I did have availability to a
bearing grease pac ker (MUST HAVE TOOL if you want to do this) and
went ahead and replaced the OEM grease.
Q uote :
Originally Posted by GarySheehan

I would recommend unbolting the lower balljoint from the
upright rather than pulling the balljoint out of the control arm.
Much less work and risk of damage by unbolting from upright.
Ahhh nice...I thought about it but wasn't sure. Now I get a c onfirmation
, thanks for the tip.
Guru
06-12-2005, 09:27 PM #14
BIGSKYWRX
Scoo by Guru
Member#: 7958 OK- thanks that makes sense on the seperator.

Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Plains of Ea ste rn Yeah there is just a small bolt that is removed on the knuckle and you
Montana
Vehicle: can tap down on the control arm and the ball joint will fall out ( if
09 GH B+ doesn't you can use a beefy screw driver or small pry bar to gently
open the gap so that it does).
Just googled the bearing grease packer- looks like a very handy tool
(don't even have to get your hands dirty )
One other question- according to the FSM the press needed doesn't
look like it has to be very powerful (calls for a low torque)- did you find
this to be true?
06-12-2005, 10:17 PM #15
forced4
Scoo by Guru
Member#: 13304 Thanks for the writeup Jay...I think I have some front bearings going
Join Date: De c 2001 bad as well.
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: O n Da Xtre m e Driftz
C ircuit
Vehicle:
2002 WRX WRB
De Re Metallica
06-12-2005, 10:40 PM #16
Hotrodguru
Scoo by Guru
Member#: 37210 Well the only one we had access to was a 20 ton press down one. One
Join Date: May 2003 thing I've always done is place a little grease on the mating surfaces
Chapter/Region: Inte rnational such as say the bearing outer and hub inner to prevent so much
Location: in a Shotgun House
FTW ! pressure and friction when pressing items. Even with a little grease
Vehicle: you'll hear some popping as the hub gets passed the inner and outer
2002 Tarmac Bugeye races of the bearing.
2007 Muddy FJ Cruiser
Q uote :
Originally Posted by BIGSKYWRX

One other question- according to the FSM the press needed
doesn't look like it has to be very powerful (calls for a low
torque)- did you find this to be true?
Edited the part of the write-up with big red letters where I removed the
CV bands and boots. This step is not necessary and was done only
because I need to change out the grease . D_REX (TXIC)
recommened the edit to prevent a first timer from thinking this was a
necessary step.
Guru
06-13-2005, 08:45 AM #17
dwx
Scoo by Guru
Member#: 8343 I've done the bearings on all 4 corners, just as preventative
Join Date: Jul 2001 maintenance. I would recommend replacing the factory grease.
Chapter/Region: MW SO C
Location: Atlanta, GA
Vehicle: I would also recommend not re-using the axle nuts, buy new ones.
2005 Forester XT Don't torque the axle nut down with the car on the ground, and make
2000 PS F250 sure you have a torque wrench that goes pretty high.
These days Subaru changes them with the upright on the car, using a
couple specialty tools and just removing the axle/brake assembly .
06-13-2005, 11:02 PM #18
Lucky Loser
Scoo by Guru
Member#: 70055 THis should be a sticky...

Join Date: Se p 2004
Location: The Last of
Vehicle:
The Famous
International Playboys iln
06-14-2005, 09:24 AM #19
LyveWRX
Scoo by Spe cialist
Member#: 19057 Do you suppose you could caliper a few of the critical dimensions you
Join Date: May 2002 used on the sockets to press the bearings in and out. I would love to
Chapter/Region: MW SO C draw a universal set of rings/pushers in SolidWorks and have a set
Location: Mid-Town, De troit, MI
Vehicle: made.
2002 WRX
& Red Ford 1-ton Van Our local dealer hasnt responded ot my request to come and borrow his
for a day to CMM and rev-eng them.
06-14-2005, 09:34 AM #20
BIGSKYWRX
Scoo by Guru
Q uote :
Member#: 7958
Join Date: Jul 2001 Originally Posted by LyveWRX
Location: Plains of Ea ste rn
Montana
Do you suppose you could caliper a few of the critical
Vehicle: dimensions you used on the sockets to press the bearings in
09 GH B+ and out. I would love to draw a universal set of rings/pushers in
SolidWorks and have a set made.
Our local dealer hasnt responded ot my request to come and

borrow his for a day to CMM and rev-eng them.
2nd that
06-14-2005, 10:21 AM #21
Hotrodguru
Scoo by Guru
Q uote :
Member#: 37210
Join Date: May 2003 Originally Posted by LyveWRX
Location: in a Shotgun House Do you suppose you could caliper a few of the critical
FTW ! dimensions you used on the sockets to press the bearings in
Vehicle: and out. I would love to draw a universal set of rings/pushers in
2002 Tarmac Bugeye
2007 Muddy FJ Cruiser SolidWorks and have a set made.
Our local dealer hasnt responded ot my request to come and

borrow his for a day to CMM and rev-eng them.
Sure...if you can get me a set made at a good price . Just let me
know which exact measurements you're looking for so I don't miss any.
I'm assuming you'll need the dimensions for the hub as well seeing it's
pressed into the bearing and you have to push it out.
Guru
06-14-2005, 11:27 AM #22
LyveWRX
Scoo by Spe cialist
Member#: 19057 Well we'll have to see, I can at least draw up some B/P.
Join Date: May 2002
Chapter/Region: MW SO C Hmmm... I dont really know how the bearing is pushed. I'll need at least
Location: Mid-Town, De troit, MI
Vehicle: ID/OD and other diameters that dont ruin the bearing when pushing on
2002 WRX it. Since I've not done this you may need to give me lots of details.
& Red Ford 1-ton Van
Also minimum length could be usefull also.
Last edited by LyveWRX; 06-14-2005 at 02:40 PM.
06-14-2005, 03:47 PM #23
ammelk
Scoo by Ne wbie
Member#: 85460 this is super. thanks for the great write up..i want to redo mine, and I
Join Date: Apr 2005 was worried. Its not harding then the 4x4's I've owned and done this
Chapter/Region: NW IC to.. heck its even easier
Location: R oche ste r
Vehicle: thanks again for the super write up..
07 RallyX NITRO now.. lets sticky this bad boy..
White
06-14-2005, 04:39 PM #24
eltrouble
Scoo by Spe cialist
Member#: 79493 Great write-up, this definitely deserves a sticky.
Join Date: Jan 2005
Chapter/Region: SC IC
Location: C e rritos, C A
Vehicle:
2003 WRB WRX Wagon
5 doors > 4 doors
06-15-2005, 03:43 PM #25
Hotrodguru
Scoo by Guru
Q uote :
Member#: 37210
Join Date: May 2003 Originally Posted by LyveWRX
Location: in a Shotgun House Well we'll have to see, I can at least draw up some B/P.
FTW !
Vehicle: Hmmm... I dont really know how the bearing is pushed. I'll need
2002 Tarmac Bugeye
2007 Muddy FJ Cruiser at least ID/OD and other diameters that dont ruin the bearing
when pushing on it. Since I've not done this you may need to
give me lots of details.
Also minimum length could be usefull also.
I'll get you all the dimensions this weekend if I get a chance. Work has
me slaving currently, haha. I'm going to see if I can go up to the dealer,
have them pull a new bearing, hub and I'll measure and photograph the
dimensions.
Guru
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Home Forums WikiNA SIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage

Losing traction? Need new tires?

Brak e s & Suspe nsion Forum sponsore d by The Tire R ack

Welcome to the NASIOC.com

Thread Tools Display Modes

Hotrodguru Wheel Bearing Replacement - Guru's guide w/pics

1. Ball joint / tie rod separator.

Wheel Bearings www.PartsHighway.com

Discount Axle Hub Assemblies Foreign and

Front Axle Nut Yahoo.com

Composite Bearings PolygonComposites.com/Bearings

* R e giste re d use rs of the site do not se e the se ads.

Last edited by Hotrodguru; 06-25-2005 at 01:21 PM.

Last edited by Hotrodguru; 08-17-2005 at 09:17 AM.

Member#: Assembly of Hub

Last edited by Hotrodguru; 01-07-2008 at 12:51 AM.

Member#: Assembly of hub back on car.

Breakdown on front axle assembly

Last edited by Hotrodguru; 09-01-2005 at 12:39 AM.

06-12-2005, 03:58 PM #10

Member#: 8050 Nice!

06-12-2005, 08:08 PM #11

Member#: 2450 Good write-up.

06-12-2005, 08:14 PM #12

Member#: 32574 Absolutely exceptional write up.

06-12-2005, 08:27 PM #13

are the bands difficult to reinstall - how is it done?

Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen

And I guess I have the same question as Mike about repacking

Originally Posted by GarySheehan

06-12-2005, 09:27 PM #14

Member#: 7958 OK- thanks that makes sense on the seperator.

06-12-2005, 10:17 PM #15

06-12-2005, 10:40 PM #16

Originally Posted by BIGSKYWRX

06-13-2005, 08:45 AM #17

06-13-2005, 11:02 PM #18

Member#: 70055 THis should be a sticky...

06-14-2005, 09:24 AM #19

06-14-2005, 09:34 AM #20

Our local dealer hasnt responded ot my request to come and

06-14-2005, 10:21 AM #21

Our local dealer hasnt responded ot my request to come and

06-14-2005, 11:27 AM #22

06-14-2005, 03:47 PM #23

06-14-2005, 04:39 PM #24

Member#: 79493 Great write-up, this definitely deserves a sticky.

06-15-2005, 03:43 PM #25

Also minimum length could be usefull also.

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