Garments Inspection system

Introduction: Inspection can be defined as the visual examination in

relation to some standards. Quality inspection is an important issue
in garments manufacturing sector. Quality inspector ensures the right quality
of a garment export order, whether this order is ready for shipping or not.
During inspection, quality inspector obeys a process flow chart of quality
inspection system which has discussed in this article.

Flow Chart of Quality Inspection System in Apparel Sector:

Quality inspection of garments or fabrics can be done by maintaining four

systems. Those are in the below:

1. 4 point system
2. 10 point system
3. Granville “78″ system.
4. Dallas system.
But 4 system is most used in today’s ready- made garments sector.

Confirmation of garments quantity

↓
Confirmation of trimmings and accessories
↓
Measurement inspection
↓
Garment’s in-side inspection
↓
Garment’s out-side inspection
↓
Final inspection
↓
Packing
All the above processes have discussed in the below
table:

SL
No. Process Procedure
At the very first step of quality inspection,
Confirmation a qualityinspector should confirm the total
of garments quantity of garments according to buyer’s
01 quantity requirement.
Here, quality inspector should check
Confirmation of various trimmings and accessories needed
trimmings and in the garments according to buyer’s
02 accessories instruction.
In this stage, quality inspector should
compare thegarment measurements against
Measurement the customer’s measurement charts such as
03 inspection sleeve length, garment length etc.
Here, quality inspector should check
the garment’s inside part to find out various
Garment’s in-side problems such as unbalanced sleeve edge,
04 inspection incorrect side shape etc.
Quality inspector should check here
the garment’s outside part to find out
Garment’s out-side different problems such as open seam,
05 inspection needle holes & marks etc.
In final inspection, quality inspector should
check different issues about the garments
such as shade variation from one part
06 Final inspection of garment to another, correct labeling etc.
Here, quality inspector should check various
problems of packing according to buyers
instruction such as dirt’s & stains, correct
size of poly bag, garment’s quantity per
07 Packing carton etc.
 10 Points System
For production of high quality garments, need high quality piece
goods. It is an universal truth. When a sewing factory receives
fabric from the mill, it is difficult to conduct a full
100% inspection of the fabric. So then minimum 10% inspection
of all piece goods prior to spreading the fabric. There are several
methods of fabric inspection in garments industry. Ten Points
system is one of them.
The 10 points method is a point per fault system, which gives a
measurable guide to quality grading per roll. In 1955s “Ten
Points” piece goods evaluation was adapted by the Textile
Distributors and National Federation of Textiles. The system
assigns penalty points to each defect as per following guideline.

Warp Defects
 Up to 1 inch →→→→→→→→→→→→→1 Point
 1 to 5 inches →→→→→→→→→→→→→3 Points
 5 to 10 inches →→→→→→→→→→→→5 Points
 10 to 36 inches →→→→→→→→→→→10 Points

Filling/Weft Defects

Size of defects →→→→→→→→→→→→→→Penalty

 Up to 1 inch →→→→→→→→→→→→→1 Point
 1 to 5 inches →→→→→→→→→→→→→3 Points
 5 to 10 inches →→→→→→→→→→→→5 Points
 10 to 36 inches →→→→→→→→→→→10 Points
Filling/Weft Defects
Size of defects →→→→→→→→→→→→→Penalty
 Up to 1 inch →→→→→→→→→→→→ 1 Point
 1 to 5 inches →→→→→→→→→→→→3 Points
 5 inches to half the width →→→→→→5 Points
 Half to Full width →→→→→→→→→→10 Points
A maximum 10 Points is charged for one linear yard of fabric.
 Working Procedure

 Under the 10 Points system, a piece is graded as “First”, if the

total penalty points do not exceed the total yardage of the piece.
 In case of a fabric wider than 50 inches; “First” quality is
considered if the total defect points do not exceed the total
yardage of the fabric.
 A piece is graded as “Second” if the total penalty points exceed
the total yardage of the piece.
Finished Garments-Quality Inspection:
Inspection in reference to the apparel industry can be defined as
the visual examination or review of raw materials (like fabric,
sewing threads, buttons, trims, etc). It is an important aspect
followed prior to garment manufacturing to avoid rejects due to
fabric quality and facing with unexpected loss in manufacturing.
The quality of a final garment depends on the quality of a fabric
when it is received as a roll. Even the most outstanding
manufacturing methods cannot compensate for defective
materials. Normally, we inspect 10% of the rolls we receive and
evaluate them based on a four-point system. This way, we can
avoid fabric related quality problems before it is put into
production.

Size of defect Penalty

3 inches or less 1 points
Over 3 but not over 6 2 points
Over 6 but nor over 9 3 points
Over 9 inches 4 points

Total defect points per 100 square yards of fabric are calculated
and the acceptance criteria is generally not more than 40 penalty
points. Fabric rolls containing more than 40 points are considered
"seconds".
 The formula to calculate penalty points per 100 square
yards is given by:

= (Total points scored in the roll * 3600) / Fabric width in inches

* Total yards inspected

The following are noteworthy points for this system:

 No more than 4 penalty points can be assigned for any single
defect.
 The fabric is graded regardless of the end-product.
 This system makes no provision for the probability of minor
defects.
 4 points system is most widely used system in apparel industry
as it is easy to teach and learn.

Sewing Thread Inspection in Garments Industry:

Sewing threads are bought by checking for having the following properties:
(a). Thread construction or ticket number,
(b). Sew-ability of sewing thread.
Both the key inspection matters have explained in the below:
(a). Thread construction or ticket number:
In apparel manufacturing industry, ticket number is a commercial
numbering system. Normally, ticket number is the manufacturer’s reference
numbers for the size of a given thread. In fact, the size or count
of sewing thread is called ticket number. The following are the tests done to
identify thread construction or ticket number.
1. Thread count,
2. Thread elongation,
3. Thread balance,
4. Number of twist,
5. Thread tenacity,
 6. Thread ply.
(b). Sew-ability of sewing thread:
The ability of sewing of a thread is called sew-ability. To identify the sew-
ability, 3 thread packages are collected from a lot and sewn 100 yards
length and here also noted the running performance of sewing machine. It
is done to determine the ability of sewing thread compared with the fault free
thread. Also the following properties are inspected to determine the sew-
ability of thread:
1. Imperfections of thread,
2. Finishing of thread,
3. Thread Package density,
4. Color of thread.,
5. Yardage of thread,
6. Winding of thread.

Trimmings and Accessories Inspection:

Trimmings and accessories inspection is a critical matter in apparel

manufacturing industry. To achieve desired quality apparel or clothing,
proper trimmings and accessories inspection process have to follow. It
should be noted here that, the total process of trims and accessories
inspection should be done by experienced quality inspector. This article
has presented the proper method of trims and accessories inspection with
the inspection defect check list for clothing accessories and trimmings.
How to Check Trims and Accessories in Clothing or Apparel Industry?

All the trimmings and accessories inspection should be done on arrival into
the apparel manufacturing factory by lot or shipment. Some buyer use
an acceptable quality level (AQL) of 2.5 to inspect a lot or shipment, but
we follow the best method is for to check each lot or shipment a minimum of
10%. That means, if 10 cartons arrive, then 10% will be checked from each
of the 10 carton e.g. if only 1 size article is found in a carton then 10% of
each of the 10 cartons will be inspected. If more than 1 size is found in each
carton then 10% of each size of article found in each of the 10 carton will be
checked. Just checking 1 carton (100%) out of the 10 carton (10%) doesn’t
mean that the balance quantity of pieces in the other 9 cartons is correct.
Some special cases QI will be checked 100%. In this way, trimmings and
accessories inspection should be done in readymade garment or apparel
sector.
List of Critical Defects in Apparel with Zero Tolerance:

The following defects or faults are top most critical defects with “ZERO
TOLERANCE” which must be followed in trimmings and accessories inspection
process.

Defect Classification Critical Major Minor

Incorrect Country of Origin X

Fabric Composition X

Care instruction / Symbol X

Size X

Inspection Defect Check List for Apparel Accessories and

Trimmings:
The below matters should strictly follow during trims and
accessories inspection.
Size, Care Label

Defect Classification Critical Major Minor

Measurement Error X

Care symbol missing X

Eligible lettering alphabet X

Printing blur / unclear/less distinct X

Lettering word Error X

Salves / Edge area not up to satisfactory level X

Wrong care code X

Fabric consignment wrong X

Spelling mistake X

IN DC Date wrong X

Bar Code number wrong X

Word / Space error X

Vendor code missing / Wrong input X

Excess lettering alphabet X

Main Label / Fit Label / Sub Label

Defect Classification Critical Major Minor

Color missing / Shade variation X

Missing yarn X

Woven fault X

Measurement Error X

Salves / Edge area not up to satisfactory level X

Button / Rivet

Defect Classification Critical Major Minor

Broken button X

Button style mistake X

Off position logo X

Poor Thickness X
 Color missing / Shade variation X

Missing Logo X

Eligible lettering alphabet X

Missing hole X

Measurement Error X

Sometimes cannot pass through metal detector X

Zipper

Defect Classification Critical Major Minor

Tape Shading error X

Runner doesn’t work smoothly X

Sharp teeth X

Woven fault X

Stopper missing X

Loose stopper X

Logo missing X

Style mismatch X

Measurement Error X

Sometimes cannot pass through metal detector X

Joker Tag / Hand Tag

Defect Classification Critical Major Minor

Lettering alphabet error X

Shade variation X

Size mistake X

Logo missing X

Broken Joker Tag / Hand Tag X

 Measurement Error X

Poor thickness X

Price Ticket

Defect Classification Critical Major Minor

Style number missing X

Bar Code number missing X

Price printing missing X

Color bleeding X

Bar Code blur / unclear / less distinct X

Logo missing X

Twill Tape

Defect Classification Critical Major Minor

Color missing / Shade variation X

Missing yarn X

Salves / Edge area not up to satisfactory level X

Knot X

Elastic (Hole / Plain)

Defect Classification Critical Major Minor

Color missing / Shade variation X

Missing yarn X

Poor thickness X

Poor elasticity sketchiness X

 Denier error X

Measurement Error X

Salves / Edge area not up to satisfactory level X

Velcro Tape

Defect Classification Critical Major Minor

Salves / Edge area not up to satisfactory level X

Sometimes loop parts are missing X

Sometimes hock parts are missing X

Measurement Error X

Tap thickness problem ( Soft / Hard ) X

Leather Patch / Paper Patch / Rubber Patch

Defect Classification Critical Major Minor

Measurement Error X

Color missing / Shade variation X

Letter missing X

Color bleeding X

Sometimes cannot pass through metal detector X

Conclusion:
The experiment gives us an idea about different types of
inspections. I would like to give special thanks to our teacher. I
am also grateful to our instructors. I think this experiment will be
very helpful in my future life.

Link:
1. http://www.sriyadithatextile.com/home/interviews/fabric-
inspection-methods.
2.https://www.google.com/search?biw=1366&bih=637&tbm=is
ch&sa=1&ei=p6kzWpjgH8O_0gSs1paQCg&q=10+points+garme
nts+inspection+machine&oq=10+points+garments+inspection+
machine&gs_l=psy-
ab.12...895004.899482.0.903126.10.10.0.0.0.0.306.1552.0j8j0j
1.9.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-
ab..1.0.0....0.8edn5Cn3pv4#imgrc=wAv6gB2JokmESM:
3. http://www.garmentsmerchandising.com/sewing-thread-
inspection-in-apparel-industry/
4. http://www.garmentsmerchandising.com/trimmings-
accessories-inspection-process/
5. http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/02/inspection-of-
garments-garment.html