BASIC

WASHING
TERMS
tutorial

Joet Pantoja @2015

=Some important steps process of Denim Washing=

1.Pre treatment ( Desizing, Rinsing, Scouring etc)

2.Enzyme or Stone wash

3.Clean up to adjust the desire effect

4.Bleaching

5.Tinting / Dyeing

6.Softening & Much more…..

Joet Pantoja @2015
=PRE-TREATMENT (DESIZING)=
This is very first & basic step but most important step of washing.
This process removes impurities, starch & stains during handling of fabric.

This step is also called desizing ( Removal of Size applied during denim fabric making in weft
yarn ). All the woven fabric contains size on them due to reasons to strengthen the yarn for
weaving. Joet Pantoja @2015
=RINSE WASH=
It is most basic wash for denim garment.
During the construction of denim fabric, starch is applied to strengthen the Warp. This
makes the fabric pretty stiff and harsh to skin. In rinse wash the garment is Desized and
some softening agent is applied to improve the hand feel of garment. Joet Pantoja @2015
=ENZYME WASH=
Enzyme is a Proteins that gives the stoning effect.
Enzyme washing react with the cotton cellulose to give a similar appearance to a normal
stonewash, saving money and environmental impact for companies.
The enzymes will not compromise the strength of the fabric, but they will make the jeans
softer, more supple, and more neutral in odor. Joet Pantoja @2015
=ENZYME WASH + something=

Joet Pantoja @2015

 =STONEWASH=
Stonewash - treated to produce a faded, worn appearance.
This is usually accomplished either by washing the jeans with pumice in a rotating drum, or
also by using chemicals to create the appearance without the use of a rotating drum.
Joet Pantoja @2015
=BLEACH WASH=
(Normally Sodium Hypochlorite/ Calcium Hypochloride/ Potassium Permanganate ) Used to fade the indigo dye during
washing.
Joet Pantoja @2015
=BLEACH WASH + something=

Joet Pantoja @2015

=TINTING=
Tinting is a process where very less amount of tint is involved & mainly direct dye is being
used to do this process. This is being done to change hue/cast/tone of indigo.
As soon as quantity of tint color increases & it cover up indigo, reaches the level of dyeing.
Joet Pantoja @2015
=TINTING + something=

Joet Pantoja @2015

=ACID WASH / SNOW WASH=
A mottled stone wash effect developed in the mid 1990s.
Stones were soaked in bleach (normally potassium permanganate) and then added to the
washer without any water. Joet Pantoja @2015
=ACID WASH / SNOW WASH=

Joet Pantoja @2015

dry processing
=PP EFFECT (Potassium Permanganate)=
In some cases Potassium Permanganate is applied on blasted area with spray gun of paint
brush. This is commonly used where the fading effect is desired to high intensity.
Joet Pantoja @2015
dry processing
=HANDSAND / SANDBLASTING=
Sandblast is a laundry process where jeans before washing are literally shot with guns of
sand to make the worn look. While originally done only by hand, this processing has
recently become automated.
Joet Pantoja @2015
dry processing
=WHISKERS =
Whiskers are pre-fabricated creases that create a broken-in and worn look in the denim at
the crotch level. Since attention goes to contrast, these so-called whiskers on jeans draw the
eye’s attention to the crotch area. Joet Pantoja @2015
dry processing
=3D WHISKERS / CRINKLES=
To get the creasing whiskers to be permanent to form as like crinkle effect, either to apply
with Resin and go for oven cure or some designer just crease a natural look without apply
anything. Joet Pantoja @2015
=GARMENT SPRAY COATING=
Garment Spray Coating it give some shiny or Matte leather like look.
Coating should be applied on a well finished and dried garment, spray liquid chemical
(binder) evenly on the garment with spray gun.
Usually dark pigment color added to this chemical (binder) to give more color effect.
And in case of shiny jeans, one may add silver or golden pigment colors even glittering
powder for different looks. Joet Pantoja @2015
=GARMENT OVERDYED/ GARMENT DYED=
Occasionally manufacturers dye the finished garment after production instead of using
colored fabric. Joet Pantoja @2015
=TIE DYED=
A bleaching or dyeing technique in which the fabric or garment is tightly folded and tied at
intervals with rubber bands. When submerged in bleach or dye, only exposed sections are
affected, creating a distinctive pattern Joet Pantoja @2015
 DIRECT DYE (Substantive dyeing)
Joet Pantoja @2015

Direct or called Substantive dyeing is normally carried out in a neutral or

slightly alkaline dyebath, at or near boiling point, with the addition of
either sodium chloride or sodium sulfate or sodium carbonate.
Joet Pantoja @2015

REACTIVE DYEING
Reactive dyes have good fastness properties owing to the bonding that occurs
during dyeing.

Reactive dyes have a low utilization degree compared to other types of

dyestuff, since the functional group also bonds to water, creating hydrolysis.
 Sulfur dyes are usually pale.

SULFUR DYEING
The black, blue, brown, and
green dyes have the greatest
importance; the yellow and
orange dyes have only limited
use.

While the black dyes are fast,

the other sulfur dyes impart
colors of lesser permanence.

Sulfur dyes are inexpensive

and convenient. They are
widely used for dyeing cotton
fabric; in the textile industry,
however, they have been
Joet Pantoja @2015

partially replaced by vat dyes

and reaction dyes, which offer
brighter and more permanent
colors.
 PIGMENT DYEING
Joet Pantoja @2015

Pigment dyeing is not actually dyeing at all, since it only coats the
surface of the material, rather than fully penetrating it like a dye would.
There are both advantages and disadvantages to this method, as is the
case with any type of coloring technique.

One of the primary advantages is its ability to adhere to a wide range of

textiles, not just natural fabrics. This is especially important with
synthetics or blends, which often cannot be dyed with conventional dyes.
 COLD PIGMENT DYEING
Joet Pantoja @2015

It's processing with a room temperatures arround 20-30degree.

Since Pigment dye molecules are relatively large and easily filtered at water
treatment plants and are therefore considered to be eco friendly. They are also
processed at generally lower temperatures than reactive dyes and the process
time is shorter.
These factors further contribute to their eco friendly status.
 WAVE DYEING
Joet Pantoja @2015

Wave dyeing obtained by the usage of RESIN along with Pigment Colorand special catalyst.
The mixed solution applied on garment with quick rotation. The Resin and Pigment stained just
on the garment surface whch looks like the spray applied effect.
 LAVA® DYEING
Joet Pantoja @2015

Lava® Dyes from Chemical Supplier -Dystar which can achieve

bright shades and dark colors on denim. They also offer great
possibilities in creating wash effects due to their excellent
decolorization with permanganate and accelerator. Coloration can be
done at a low temperature and great light and wash fastness can be
achieved without pre-cationaization or binders.
 ASUDEL DYEING
Joet Pantoja @2015

ASUDEL dye from Asutex is a new type dying method

which is an alternative method of PIGMENT dyeing.

The Advantages that ASUDEL dyeing have strong

vintage style as pigment acting,but deeper color.
And Good color fastness as reactive dyes.
Low dosage, can make the same color depth with high
absorption.

Eco-friendly that Simple process, shorter time.