Design economies of garments

& textiles printing

DR. TAREK ZAGHLOUL
 Contents
• Chapter one: Cost analysis in textiles industry
• Chapter two: Fabrics
• Chapter three: Marker making
• Chapter four: Materials of textiles printing
 Chapter one:
Cost analysis in textiles industry

• The textiles costing is the cost of every item related to the production of a
particular textiles.
• The sum of these cost plus the profit margin is the selling price which the
company will give to customers.
While each company has its own method of preparing costing, generally the
components of a costing are grouped under four headings:
• direct materials,
• direct labor,
• factory overhead.
 1. Direct Materials

• Direct materials are all the materials and trimmings which go into the
construction and finish of the product.
• In garments, these materials would include fabrics, interfacing, zippers,
buttons, tapes, labels, tickets, hangers and packaging materials.
• In textiles printing, these materials would include fabrics, dyes, pigments,
thickeners, printing pastes.
 2. Direct Labor
• This cover the cost of all the labor directly involved in producing the
product and could include cutting, sewing machines, printing machines,
pressing, finishing, inspection and packing.
 3. Factory Overhead
There are different methods of calculating the factory overhead, but most of
them use a combination of the following three elements:
• Indirect labor
• Expenses
• Indirect materials
• Indirect labor:
This covers every person in the factory who does not directly perform a
production operation such as managers, supervisors, store personnel,
maintenance staff, canteen staff, security and cleaners etc.
• Expenses:
Included in this element is every fixed and variable expenses incurred in
operating the factory, such as rent, insurance, maintenance, elecracity, air
conditioning and the various types of energy generation required by a textiles
factory.
• Indirect materials:
This element contains all the materials not directly connected to the makeup of
a product. Some of the typical items involved are office materials, spare parts,
paper, and maintenance materials.
 Stages in Costing
1- Design department:
• The design department documents contain information such as the price of
buttons and material, and estimates the average quantity of fabric required
per garment.
• The designer controls the cost through the selection of fabric, trims and
design details within the product.
• 2- Sample department:
• Once the prototype has been made, the sample department list every process
involved.
• 3- Work study department (engineering department):
• A work study engineer who estimates how long a product will take , on
average to complete in bulk production. Because every worker works at
varying speeds, the time can only ever be estimated, based on numerous time
studies. The average time which an engineer is expected to take to sew a
garment is estimated in what are known as standard ‗minutes‘.
• 4- Costing department:
• The estimated standard minutes are then communicated to the costing
department, where they are combined with the information from designer,
and a computer program is used to calculate a suggested price.
• 5- Sales department:
• The sales department analyses the costing sheet and presents an initial price
to the buyer. This price is based on the estimated production and material
costs but is also influenced by how much the customer is expected to pay.
• The sales department negotiates with the buyer until a price is finalized
which is agreeable to both parties.
 Methods of Costing
• The cost is the deciding factor for acceptance of orders either for domestic or for
export market.
• The production cost of textiles must be determined in order to set the whole sale
price, the price that retailers pay for goods that they purchase from manufacturers.
• The costing is generally done in two stages as follows:
• Pre costing
• Final costing
• Pre costing:
• The pre cost is an estimate made before textiles are manufactured. The
designer must keep fabric, trim and labor cost for each product. The
designers usually keep the record of all the material cost on a designer
worksheet.
• Final costing:
• This is an exact calculation by the costing or importing department, using
actual numbers for materials and labor. The costing department uses the
designer‘s work sheet, and a prototype to analyze materials and construction
step by step.
• The designer may be consulted for information or to recommend more
practical or cheaper ways to make the product.
• Labor cost may be calculated by time studies. In this case, engineers estimate
each operation, how long it takes to make a prototype may be sent to a
contractor for costing.
• A detailed cost analysis is made for each product, including expenses for
fabric, trims, cutting, labor, overhead, sales commission, and manufacturer‘s
profit. The final cost is written on a cost sheet.
 Chapter Two
Fabrics
• Selecting the right fabric is essential for the success of garments and textiles
so a designer must understand the properties and qualities of different
fabrics. The design process includes researching the fabric; the way it looks,
and feels can inspire a design.
• It is important to choose the right fabric for the design – many beginners
choose a fabric for its color instead of its qualities, but the wrong fabric
means the garment or textile will not work. For example, wool crepe or silk
jersey are perfect for a draped silhouette because they drape naturally around
the body.
• When selecting fabric consider texture, drapability, structure, quality, color,
stretch direction, nap, transparency and price.
• If you have not worked with a material before; start by sampling the fabric
and researching into finishing ideas before using it in your final garment.
• Sampling with unfamiliar materials will expand your knowledge of fabrics
and may inspire new ideas.
 Fibers to yarn
• Fibers are spun, twisted, cured, or
bulked to create a continuous length
of interlocked fibers known as yarn or
thread. The direction the yarn is spun
is called the twist and can be a ‗Z‘
(right-hand) twist, or an ‗S‘ (left-hand)
twist. Two or more yarns can be
twisted together with different degrees
of tightness to the twist. Yarns are
woven or knitted together to create
fabric.
• Types of fibers:
• Fibers are split into two main groups:
1. Natural fibers come from two main sources: cellulose from plants, such as
cotton or flax, and protein from animals such as the silkworm or sheep.
2. Synthetic fibers are produced using technology, with the raw material –
which can be a natural or synthetic – in liquid form being spun or extruded
to form a long-chain polymer.
 Smart fabrics
• Smart fabrics, also known as modern materials or e-textiles, are wearable
technology. These materials contain digital components or electronics.
Elements such as sensors, microcontrollers and power distributors.
• For example, warmX® fabric conducts heat and, when used with a power
pack, will heat the body. NuMetrex® is a company that weaves heart-rate
monitors into fitness clothing using smart-fabric technology.
• Smart fabrics can also sense and react to environmental conditions such as
changes of temperature.
• Smart technologies can be applied to woven, knitted and non woven fabric as
print or digital embroidery. The garments can be sewn traditionally or made
with ultrasonic welding, where ultrasonic sound waves pass through the
layers of fabric and fuse the fibers.
 Fabric construction
• Fabric structure falls into two categories: woven and knitted.
• 1- Woven fabric is created by a vertical yarn, the ‗warp‘, interlacing with a
horizontal yarn, the ‗weft‘, at right angles to each other. The edges of the
fabric, the selvedge, are woven more tightly and run along the length of the
fabric in the direction of the warp, which is the lengthwise grain.
• The warp yarn is held in tension on
a loom and the weft yarn creates
the crosswise grain, weaving over
and under the warp yarn; the warp
is, therefore, the stronger of the
two. There are three main weave
structures: plain weave, twill weave;
and satin weave.
• A - Plain weave is the most basic
weave; the weft thread is taken over
and under alternating warp threads at
right angles to each other. Plain weave
fabrics are by no means plain – a vast
variety of styles can be achieved. Plain
weave fabric is firm, wears well and is a
good base for printing or embroidery.
It wrinkles more than other weaves but
frays less and is easy to cut and sew.
• B - Twill weave is one of the most
durable weaves, creating hardwearing
fabrics such as denim or gabardine,
which are used for workwear,
outerwear and suiting. The fabric is
quite heavy; it wears well and recovers
well from wrinkling. However, the
diagonal lines of twill weave give it a
direction, so care must be taken when
cutting.
• C- Satin weave is an unstable twill
weave that can be costly in
production, and snags and unravels
easily. However, it has a high-luster
surface and produces some of the
most luxurious fabrics, such as silk
satin. Satin weave is favored for
linings because of its smoothness
and drapability.
• 2- Knitted fabric is constructed
from a series of interlinking loops
or stitches. Knitted fabric can be
produced by hand knitting or
machine knitting. Machine knitting
creates two types of knit, warp or
weft.
• Fabric made by machine knitting can be warp knitted or weft knitted.
• Weft knitting uses one continuous yarn looping stitches in the crosswise
grain, producing two main knitting types, single knit and double knit.
• Warp knitting is formed by looping stitches in the lengthwise grain, utilizing
many yarns and producing a tricot knit.
• The main difference between a woven and a knitted fabric is that in general
knitted fabric has greater stretch in both directions than woven fabric.
 Stretch fabrics:
• Woven or knitted fabrics can include spandex yarns such as Lycra to increase
the stretch and recovery of the fabric. Garments made out of stretch fabrics
provide maximum elasticity, ease of movement and comfort. Knitted fabrics,
such as nylon with Lycra, are a perfect choice for tight-fitting garments, while
adding elastane to woven wool can provide a modern twist to a traditional
fabric. The invention of elastane has enabled designers to experiment with
new shapes without sacrificing comfort.
 Cotton
• The most popular of all fabrics, cotton is a natural fiber that comes from the cotton
plant.
• It is thought that cotton fibers have been in use since ancient times.
• Today, the world‘s biggest producers of cotton include the United States, India, and
countries in the Middle East.
• Cotton clothing is widely worn in warmer climates as the fabric will keep you cool.
•
 Properties of cotton
• 1. Absorbs moisture well and carries heat away from the body
• 2. Stronger wet than dry
• 3. Does not build up static electricity
• 4. Dyes well
• 5. Prone to shrinkage unless it has been treated
• 6. Creases easily
• 7. Soils easily, but launders well
 Cotton fabrics
• 1- Denim:
• A hard-wearing twill-weave fabric has a
colored warp and white weft, usually
made into jeans. Available in various
weights and often mixed with an elastic
thread for stretch.
• Denim is usually blue, but is also
available in a variety of other colors.
• Use for: jeans trousers, jackets, skirts,
children‘s wear.
• 2- Velvet:
• With a short dense pile and smooth
feel, Velvet is wonderfully with
other fabrics in dressmaking.
• 3- Jersey:
• A jersey is knitted fabric to give
stretch, making the fabric very
comfortable to wear. Jersey will also
drape well.
• Use for: underwear, draping
dresses.
• 4- Floral Print Cotton:
• In a light- to medium-weight
quality. Cotton fabrics offer a good
surface for printing. This type of
fabric can be used for summer
dresses, shirts or children's wear.
• 5- 100% Cotton Shirting:
• It gives the surface its distinctive
chequerboard appearance. This
light- to mediumweight durable
fabric comes mostly in pastel colors
for shirting.
• 6- Fine Cotton Shirting:
• This 100% cotton fabric has a silky
feel and a satin sheen and is mainly
used for men‘s special occasion
shirts.
 Wool
• A natural fiber, wool comes
primarily from sheep; Australian
merino sheep‘s wool is considered
to be the best.
• However, we also get wool fibers
from goats (mohair and cashmere),
rabbits (angora), and camels (camel
hair).
• A wool fiber is either short or
fluffy, when it is known as a woolen
yarn, or it is long, strong, and
smooth, when it is called worsted.
• Wool may be reprocessed or reused
and is then often mixed with other
fibers.
 Properties of wool
• 1. It is available in many weights and weaves.
• 2. Warm in the winter .
• 3. Absorbs moisture better than other natural fibers—will absorb up to 30 percent of its
weight before it feels wet.
• 4. Flame-resistant.
• 5. Crease-resistant.
• 6. Often blended with other fibers to reduce the cost of fabric.
• 7. Felts if exposed to excessive heat, moisture, and pressure.
• 8. Will be bleached by sunlight with prolonged exposure.
• 9. Can be damaged by moths.
 Wool fabrics
• 1. Cashmere:
• Wool from the Cashmere goat is
one of the most luxurious of all
the wools.
• A soft and hard-wearing fabric is
available in different weights.
• Use for: jackets, coats, men‘s wear;
knitted cashmere yarn for sweaters.
• 2. Mohair:
• Mohair is a fabric from the wool of
the Angora goat.
• It has long, straight, and very strong
fiber that produces a hairy cloth.
• Use for: jackets, coats, men‘s wear, and
knitted mohair yarns for sweaters.
• 3- TWEED:
• A rough fabric with a distinctive warp
and weft, usually in different colors,
and often forming a small check
pattern.
• Traditional tweed is associated with the
English countryside.
• Use for: jackets, coats, skirts, men‘s
wear.
• 4-Wool Gabardine:
• It is a closely woven twill with
prominent diagonal on the right
side but not on the wrong side.
Gabardine is water-repellent and
hardwearing, which makes it a good
choice for trousers, jackets and
outerwear.
• 5- Melton:
• It is a firm fabric, traditionally
made of wool, which does not fray
and has a non-directional nap. The
fabric is given a special finish to
create a felted surface that looks
matt and dense. It is used mainly
for jackets and coats.
• 6- Tartan:
• It is woolen fabric in twill weave.
• It is particularly associated with
Scotland, where it has a long
history. It is a beautiful fabric to use
for kilts, skirts, dresses, coats and
suits.
 Silk
• Silk is the queen of all fibers, silk is made
from the fibers of the silkworm.
• This strong and luxurious fabric dates back
thousands of years to its first development
in China.
• Silk fabrics need careful handling as some
silk fabrics can be easily damaged.
 Properties of silk
• 1. Keeps you warm in winter and
cool in summer.
• 2. Absorbs moisture and dries
quickly.
• 3. Dyes well, producing deep, rich
colors.
• 4. Static electricity can build up.
• 5. Will fade in prolonged strong sunlight.
• 6. Prone to shrinkage.
• 7. Best dry-cleaned.
• 8. Weaker when wet than dry.
 1. Chiffon
• These lightweight, transparent
fabrics are generally used for
evening wear & offer an elegant
and light finish to garments.
• Use for Special-occasion wear,
over-blouses, scarves.
 2. Crepe
• Medium weight, with an uneven
surface due to the twisted silk yarn
used and Drapes well.
• Use for Blouses, dresses, special-
occasion wear
 3. Satin
• With its lustrous and smooth
surface, Satin is the perfect choice
for evening wear and formal
occasions.
 4. Taffeta
• With a crisp & firm texture that
holds its shape better than other
fabrics, from Evening Gowns and
Wedding Dresses.
• Taffeta represents a great fabric
choice and value for money.
 5. Lace
• Lace is a lightweight openwork
fabric and is great to use in a wide
selection of garments, from casual
Tops through to Wedding Gowns.
 6. Tulle
• Tulle is a lightweight and fine
fabric. Tulle is a popular choice
when making Veils, Gowns.
 linen
• Linen is a natural fiber that is
derived from the flax plant. It is
available in a variety of qualities
and weights, from very fine linen to
heavy suiting weights. It is
sometimes blinded with other
fibers such as cotton and silk.
 PROPERTIES OF LINEN
• 1. cool and comfortable to wear
• 2. absorbs moisture well
• 3. shrinks when washed
• 4. creases easily
• 1- 100% Linen:
• This fine, lightweight fabric feels
soft and cool to the touch and can
be used for spring and summer
garments such as blouses, skirts,
shorts and dresses or casual
menswear shirts.
• 2- Suiting Linen:
in a closely set plain weave has a crisp
finish. It is very absorbent, strong and
soft and comfortable to wear. It is
used for skirts, shorts or suits.
 Manmade fabrics
• The term ―manmade‖ applies to any fabric that is not 100 percent natural.
Many of these fabrics have been developed over the last hundred years,
which means they are new compared to natural fibers.
• Some manmade fabrics are made from natural elements mixed with
chemicals while others are made entirely from non-natural substances. The
properties of manmade fabrics vary from fabric to fabric.
 1. polyester
• One of the most popular of the manmade fibers, polyester was introduced in 1951 as a
washable man‘s suit.
• Polyester fibers are made from petroleum products and can take on any form, from a very
fine sheer fabric to a thick, heavy suiting.
• Use for all purposes.
 Properties of polyester

• 1- Polyester fabrics have good elasticity and do not wrinkle. They are easy to
care and need little ironing.
• 2. polyester has poor absorbency and can be uncomfortable to wear, so it is
often blended with other natural or man-made fibers.
• 3. polyester Can build up static
 2.Viscose
• Also known as rayon and often referred to as artificial silk, this fiber was
developed in 1889.
• Rayon can be knitted or woven and made into a wide range of fabrics.
• It is often blended with other fibers.
• Use for: dresses, blouses, jackets
 Properties of viscose (rayon)

• 1. Absorbent
• 2. Not static
• 3. Dyes well
 3.NYLON
• Introduced 1938, the fabric takes its name from a collaboration between
New York (NY) and London (LON).
• Nylon is made from polymer chips that are melted and extruded into fibers.
The fabric can be knitted or woven.
• Use for: sportswear, underwear
 Properties of nylon
• 1. does not absorb moisture
• 2. washes easily
• 3.very strong
 4.ACRYLIC
• Introduced in 1950, acrylic fibers are made from ethylene and acrylonitrile.
The fabric resembles wool and makes a good substitute for machine-
washable wool. Often seen as a knitted fabric, the fibers can be mixed with
wool.
• Use for: knitted yarns for sweaters; woven for skirts, blouses, suits.
 Chapter three
Marker making
• A marker is an arrangement of all
of the pattern pieces over the area
of the fabric to be cut that
minimizes fabric waste while
maintaining the desired grain lines.
It's sort of like a pattern of
patterns from which all pieces will
be cut. The marker is then laid on
top of the layers of fabric and cut.
How to lay the pattern pieces onto the correct
grain line
• Each pattern piece should have a grain
line, which also indicates the direction
in which the pattern needs to be laid
onto the fabric. All grain lines should
be placed parallel to the selvedge on
the fabric. To ensure that the pieces are
placed correctly onto the grain,
measure from the selvedge to the grain
line at both ends of the pattern piece.
 Cutting and layout plans
• There are different options for laying the pattern onto the material. First you need
to determine the cutting plan, which will depend on the type of fabric you are using,
the direction of the grain you wish to use for your garment, and whether you need
to cut out your pattern pieces in a single layer or can double your fabric to cut two
pieces. Once you have selected your cutting plan, decide on the best way to place
your pattern pieces on the fabric to avoid wastage. This is the layout plan. Start with
the larger pieces and lay the smaller pieces, such as pockets, in any gaps. Usually you
would place the pattern pieces onto the wrong side of the fabric; this makes it
possible to mark the pattern onto the fabric.
• One-way pattern layout:
• This method would be used for a
fabric with a nap or pile, for knitted
fabrics, or for a fabric with a design
worked in one direction only. In
this layout, all pattern pieces face in
one direction so that all fabric
shading and design features will
face the same way.
• Two-way pattern layout:
• This layout is more cost-effective as
the pattern pieces can be laid in
both directions.
• The two-way layout is used on all
plain fabrics without any shading,
and patterned fabrics where the
design has no direction.
• Double layout:
• Fold the fabric on the lengthwise grain and
align the selvedges together to achieve a
double layout. This cutting plan is used to
cut out pairs of pattern pieces with the
cutting instruction ‗cut 2 x‘ . It is also
possible to cut a piece on the fold, marked as
‗cut on fold‘. Cut on fold is used on
symmetrical pattern pieces; lay the marked
pattern edge in line with the folded fabric
edge. Always place the pattern pieces that
need to be cut on the fold first and then
place the rest of the pieces around them.
• Single layout:
• The single layout is mostly used to cut
out fine, stretchy or bias-cut pattern
pieces and for fabrics with a pattern
design or direction. This layout is ideal
to cut asymmetric pattern styles as only
one piece is cut out at a time on a
single layer of fabric. The pattern
pieces for this layout will be marked as
‗cut 1 x‘or ‗cut.
 Chapter four
Textile printing materials
• Cost of textiles Printing:
• Various factors can be considered for costing of garments print or piece
print and all the factors can be brought into two main costing area such as
chemical cost and manufacturing overhead.
• Cost of Printing = Chemical Cost+ Manufacturing Overhead
Chemical Cost:
• Total no. of color
• Printed Area
• Types of Printing
• Total Amount of Printing
• Energy Cost
• Dyes and auxiliaries used in printing
Common Flowchart for textiles Printing
 Different Types of textiles Printing
• 1. Pigment Printing:
• Pigments are mainly synthetic organic
materials. Pigment has no attraction to
fiber so extra chemicals are required to
facilitate its binding. Namely thickeners,
binders, emulsifiers, fixing agents, silicone
products, softeners and defoamers are
required to make effective print paste. We
know that pigment has no affinity to
cotton fabric for this reason binder is
required during printing.
• 2. Discharge Printing:
• Discharge means to remove specific colored area by another color or reducing it by
bleaching agent. There are two types of discharge printing, one is white discharge
and another is color discharge. In white discharge method, only dyed color of fabric
is removed whereas in color discharge, after removing the dyeing color the required
color is applied with discharging agent. Here, color is destroyed by one or multiple
color. By this process pigment in the fabrics is removed chemically and replace it by
another color. For discharge printing, fabric should be 100% cotton and the fabric
should be dyed with dischargeable reactive dye.
• 3. Plastisol Printing:
• Plastisol is commonly used as a
textile ink for screen-printing and
as a coating. Plastisol inks are
recommended for printing on
colored fabric and can retain a
bright image.
• 4. Transfer printing (Sublimation
Printing):
• It is pigment based printing. The
sublimation transfer printing process
consists of dye transfer in the vapor
form from the paper to the fabric and
this process is used on the commercial
scale for transfer printing of 100%
polyester fabric.