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R E S E A R C H A N D A N A LY S I S

Urban Food Consumption in Metro Manila


Interdisciplinary Approaches Towards Apprehending Practices,
Patterns, and Impacts
Laura Burger Chakraborty, Marlyne Sahakian, Uma Rani, Megha Shenoy* ,
and Suren Erkman

Keywords:
Summary
consumption
environmental impacts Food consumption is a local activity related to environmental impacts at different scales. Yet,
food the link between eating food as a social and cultural practice and the global implications of
food waste food consumption has not been sufficiently explored. We adopt a multidisciplinary approach
industrial ecology to relate social practices with the biophysical flows of food products at the household level.
Manila
Focusing on middle-class households in Metro Manila, the Philippines, we conduct qualitative
interviews to highlight preferences, habits, and perceptions about food consumption. In
parallel, we collect quantitative information on food purchased. We relate our results to
national trends by analyzing the recent evolution of national food expenditures. Finally, we
review environmental impacts related to main food categories. Our research points to
the significance of socioeconomic factors on food consumption, notably the presence of
domestic help or the professional situation of household members. One main finding is the
identification of eating out as an important and growing trend in Asian cities, which causes
a shift of resource consumption and related environmental impacts from the household to
the service sector.

Introduction Food consumption trends worldwide have significantly


changed in the last decades. The consumption of animal prod-
What we eat is part of complex systems, involving food
ucts has tripled in developing countries since 1963 (Kearney
production, processing, transport and storage, as well as prepa-
2010), and the rise in consumption of processed and ultrapro-
ration, consumption, and food waste disposal. Eating food is a
cessed products has been noted in several countries, not least
local activity, but relates to both local and global food chains,
in relation to health concerns (Kearney 2010; Monteiro et al.
involving resource inputs at different stages and outputs with
2010a; FAO 2004). These trends are all the more relevant in
impacts at different scales, from local pollutants to greenhouse
the context of developing countries where shifts in diet among
gases (GHGs) (EEA 2012). In Europe, food is one of the most
the middle classes entail massive changes in land and energy
relevant areas in household consumption, contributing to 20%
requirements for food provisioning, with related environmental
to 30% of different environmental impact categories (Tukker
impacts (Duchin 2005; Myers and Kent 2004). Understanding
et al. 2006). Households can play a role in rendering food
the consumption patterns of middle-class consumption today
consumption more efficient, yet limited research exists relat-
could be a powerful predictor of future trends. Middle classes
ing everyday consumption practices, to biophysical patterns of
in emerging economies are generally perceived as “resource
consumption and related impacts.

∗ Editor’s note: Megha Shenoy is currently employed as a contract editor with the Journal of Industrial Ecology. The review of this article was carried out
by people who had no association with her in her role at the JIE.
Address correspondence to: Marlyne Sahakian, University of Lausanne, Faculty of Geosciences and Environment, 1015 Lausanne, Switzerland. Email: marlyne.
sahakian@unil.ch

© 2016 by Yale University


DOI: 10.1111/jiec.12402 Editor managing review: Shigemi Kagawa

Volume 20, Number 3

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predators,” with empirical evidence lacking to substantiate this question of consumption in recent years (Hertwich 2005;
claim (Lange and Meier 2009). Tukker et al. 2010). The activities of households can be assessed
Although there is no single definition for what constitutes though material flow analysis and input-output accounting,
the middle class, Asia is seen as the epicentre for the “new con- for example, with the impacts of products and services assessed
sumer” phenomenon (Myers and Kent 2004). For this article, we with life cycle assessment (LCA) methodology (Jungbluth et al.
consider food consumption as a social practice that is embedded 2011; Jungbluth 2000; Jungbluth et al. 2000; Moll et al. 2005;
in culturally grounded social systems. To understand how and in Mogensen et al. 2009). However, how much materials and
what way people consume, we consider food as part of everyday energy a household consumes in preparing and eating a meal
life and related activities, drawing from social practice theo- reveals little about why and in what way those consumption
ries. To understand how much of what people consume, we draw patterns persist or change. For this, interdisciplinary research
from industrial ecology (IE) approaches that consider food con- is necessary that combines a biophysical understanding of
sumption as a biophysical activity with related environmental consumption, with the view of consumption as tied up with
impacts. Combining these two approaches can be problematic, everyday social life in specific contexts.
as we will discuss in this article, yet represents a relevant and Wilk (2002) proposes three main research strands for under-
novel interdisciplinary approach to consumption studies. standing consumption as part of everyday life: consumption as
National consumer expenditure surveys and income and social, cultural, or driven by individual choice approaches. By
expenditure surveys provide some insights into patterns of far, the most dominant approach in research and policy mak-
consumption, yet such data often fail to reflect income group ing has been the view of consumption as being motivated by
diversity at the city level. Micro-level research at the level of individual decision-making processes. Recently, there has been
households can provide a finer reading of consumption, yet a shift of attention from social psychology and behavioral psy-
gathering such data can be resource intensive and may not chology approaches (Stern et al. 1997; Stern 1992) to a social
result in representative findings. Our approach in this article practice theory approach to consumption, which takes the ana-
is to consider three scales of analysis in relation to the food lytical focus away from atomized individuals and technologies,
consumption patterns and practices of the middle class in Metro to a vision of consumption as part of everyday collective routines
Manila, the Philippines, a growing megacity in Southeast and habits. The contours of this theoretical framework are var-
Asia. At the household level, we used memory recall methods ied, with researchers proposing differing perspectives on what
and in-depth qualitative interviews among 30 households, constitutes a practice (Reckwitz 2002; Røpke 2009; Shove 2003;
in order to understand how food consumption practices and Spaargaren 2011; Warde 2005). In one definition, practices are
patterns inter-relate. We then consider national statistics for seen as being made up of competences, images, and equipment
the Philippines, to further explore trends in food consumption (Shove and Pantzar 2005). Food consumption as a practice has
patterns. Finally, we discuss our findings with respect to life been the object of much research (e.g., Warde 2013, 2014;
cycle environmental impacts (LCEIs) that are relevant at the Sahakian and Wilhite 2014; Plessz et al. 2014; Bourdieu 1979).
global scale. Our goal is to bring together these different levels Combining social theories with IE approaches is relatively
of analysis and introduce an interdisciplinary approach to recent in the literature, with some work drawing from social
understanding urban food consumption practices, patterns, and practice theory to further understand energy consumption
impacts, from the household to the national and global level. patterns (Sahakian 2014; Gram-Hanssen 2009). On food
consumption specifically, Sonesson and colleagues (2005)
reveal the complex interactions between mobility practices,
Conceptual framework shopping frequency, and food wastage; and Green and Foster
(2005) investigate the effect of social structures in influ-
Two complementary frameworks for studying consumption
encing innovations in the UK frozen pea sector. In terms
are brought together: consumption patterns as a biophysical
of arguments for more links between social theories and
activity and consumption as part of daily life and associated
IE, several researchers (Schiller 2009; Lifset 2008; Hoffman
practices. As a biophysical activity, consumption involves ma-
2003) call for considering different disciplinary approaches in
terial and energetic provisioning from resources that draw from,
assessing biophysical processes, including the policy dimension,
and depend on, ecosystem services and natural processes—thus
social systems analysis, and ecological economics. Combining
submitting this form of economic activity to the constraints
social practices theory with approaches from IE is one of the
of the biosphere (Georgescu-Roegen 1966, 1971, 2006). For
innovative aspects of this article.
Ayres and Simonis (1994), assessing the industrial metabolism
of a biophysical activity means evaluating the quality and
quantity of energy and matter stocks and flows in a given Methodology and Research Site
system, and understanding how that system could be designed
to perform with less environmental impacts throughout the Methodology
entire process—from the extraction of natural resources, Households (HHs) are typically defined as groups of people
through production, consumption, and final disposal. living together and taking food from a common kitchen (NSSO
Although more attention had been placed on production 2013). The system’s boundaries for the quantitative assessment
systems in the past, the IE community has taken up the are set as the physical space delimited by the outer walls of

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the household. Between July and November 2013, in-depth volumes are converted assuming an average density of 1 kg per
interviews were conducted among 30 households in Metro liter [L]), brought to weekly values and expressed relative to the
Manila. Our aim was not to gain a homogenous sample within number of household members. When respondents were unsure
the middle class, but rather select households representing about size and weight, the research team compared estimates to
the diversity and heterogeneity of a wide income group, using a chart designed to list the features of common food products
theoretical sampling techniques (Strauss and Corbin 1998) available in Metro Manila. As is always the case with memory
and considering income range, housing composition, and recall methods, questions on the validity of responses remain
educational levels, among other factors. Whereas the small and will be addressed in our conclusion. We assumed that all
sample size is not intended to be representative, many of our respondents understood the questions similarly. Household
research results match national trends, such as the increase in waste quantities and types are not considered in this article
expenditures for eating out among the middle class. Our sample and are the subject of further research (Leray et al. 2015).
did allow us to compare and contrast different household In order to relate our micro-level household data to national
consumption patterns, which enabled us to fully exploit the trends, we consider food consumption expenditures among the
dialectic between qualitative and quantitative approaches. middle classes by drawing from the Family Income and Ex-
In this process, our interest was in uncovering the outliers, penditure Survey (FIES), which collects detailed income and
in terms of consumption patterns, in order to demonstrate expenditure data every 3 years in the Philippines based on mem-
that unusual quantitative research findings could be explained ory recall methods. We use food expenditure data pertaining to
through complementary, qualitative research. the years 2003 and 2009, which are adjusted for inflation for this
Within our sample, the household size varies from one analysis. Conducted biannually, the survey includes a first inter-
to nine members, with households belonging to the lower view in July to gather data for the first half of the year, followed
(43%), average (23%), and upper (30%) middle-class income by a second interview in January, to account for the last half of
brackets.1 Exposure to foreign countries is high among our the year. The concept of “average week” consumption is used for
sample: 57% of the households report that at least one member all food items. Though the FIES sample is designed to be repre-
lived abroad in the past. This is not surprising, given that the sentative of diverse consumption patterns and economic classes,
Philippine government actively encourages circular migration the limits of this survey relate to memory recall methods and
as part of their Overseas Filipino Worker (OFW) program, with timing, given that the survey is not spread across the year, but
OFW remittances contributing close to 10% of gross domestic executed at two periods. Despite these limitations, the data do
product (GDP) in 2013 (World Bank 2014). There is a predom- allow us to show some broad, national consumption trends. In
inance of the 20- to 40-year age category among the respondents order to assess the environmental significance of certain micro
(77%), whereas 15% of the respondents are 50+ years old. In and macro trends in food consumption, we draw from a literature
terms of gender, 60% of the respondents are women. review of LCA studies worldwide. We stop short of undertaking
During the household visits, in-depth semistructured a complete LCA for food products in Metro Manila because of
interviews engaged household members in a discussion around the lack of available background life cycle inventory data.
household food consumption practices and how they may have
changed over time. Respondents also answered survey questions
Research Site: Metro Manila
designed to capture food consumption patterns, using as a proxy
the food purchased that entered the household, described in An archipelago in Southeast Asia, the Philippines has a
terms of quantity and frequency. We do not consider what is population of 97.71 million and land area of 300,000 square
ingested by household members, given away, or used for another kilometers. The middle class comprised around 20.1% of the
purpose, once it enters the household. Food consumption overall population in 2003 and have marginally increased to
outside of the home is also not included in the quantitative 21% in 2009. Average middle-class annual earnings reached
assessment, rather discussed in qualitative interviews. For US$8,350 in 2003 and increased to US$9,400 in 2009 in real
gathering quantitative information, we used memory recall, terms. However, the average expenditure on food as a propor-
a methodology that is common in expenditure surveys (NSS tion to total income has remained more or less constant at 27%
2012; Smith and Subandoro 2007). Unlike food diaries, which over the past decade in real terms. Labor force participation rates
capture food intake amounts, this method captures food and (LFPRs) for females are around 49.8% and for males 79.8%. The
beverage mass as they are purchased, including the nonedible high female LFPRs in Philippines is exceptional in the context
fractions (peels, bones, and so on) and components that may of a developing country, with rates comparable to those of more
eventually be wasted. The general format for questions related advanced economies. Working abroad is a common livelihood
to food consumption patterns is: “How many [units, e.g. kg] strategy, with an estimated 2.22 million overseas Filipino
of [product, e.g. rice] is purchased in a week?” We distinguish workers in 2013, of which 48.3% were females (PSA 2013).
between processed and nonprocessed foods. Products cate- The Philippines is one of the world’s largest livestock
gorized as processed correspond to the category ultraprocessed producers (World Bank 2012). Local production is dominated
food defined by Monteiro and colleagues (2010b), including in volume by pork and chicken; in 2013, approximately 20% of
ready-made breads, biscuits, sweets, cheese, and canned prod- both beef and water-buffalo meat was imported, up from 8.5%
ucts. Quantities are computed in kilograms (kg; for beverages, and zero, respectively, in 1990 (CountryStat Philippines 2015).

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The country has converted 40.6% of its land area into agri- Eating Out and Ordering In
cultural land (World Bank 2011a), contributing to significant Several respondents eat at least one meal outside of the home
environmental impacts related to the use of chemical fertilizers on a daily basis, primarily in the context of office work. Meals
and GHG emissions. Rice is a major cereal crop produced in the are eaten mostly in workplace canteens, with respondents citing
Philippines, with 4.7 million hectares (ha) of its land being used convenience and cost as the main motivator behind this prac-
for its cultivation; cereals, oil crops, coconuts, maize, sugar cane, tice. Families tend to eat more meals at home, as opposed to
fruits such as pineapples, bananas, and mangoes, and aquacul- single-member households who tend to eat out—as in the exam-
ture make up the remaining main cultivation (FAO 2013a). ple of HH02 (Box 2). In some cases, meals are prepared at home,
The Philippines was the world’s largest importer of rice in 2010 then carried to the workplace in what is known as baon, in Taga-
(Reuters 2011) whereas its own production accounts for 2.3% log, or a packed lunch. One family describes eating breakfast in
of global rice production (FAO 2013b). In comparison, China their workplace canteen in the mornings before bringing their
and India are the biggest rice producers, achieving around 28% young son to preschool; they will pack a baon directly from the
and 21%, respectively, of global rice production (FAO 2013b). canteen, for their son, including rice and a banana, for example.
The focus of this article is on the middle classes in Metro Several respondents also describe eating outside in restaurants
Manila, the national capital region of the Philippines. With an on weekends, enjoying a variety of different types of foods avail-
estimated population of 11.7 million, Metro Manila is a site of able in Metro Manila, such as Italian, Japanese, Chinese, or
“new consumer” consumption, with shopping centers becoming Thai food. Only one respondent among the 30 interviewed re-
important leisure destinations for food purchasing and for eating ported eating outside less than once per week: She often eats at
out. What and how people eat in Metro Manila is constantly her mother’s home, but does not associate this with “eating out.”
evolving, not least in relation to historical trajectories involv-
ing colonial and postcolonial influences, but also in relation to BOX 2: Household Number 2 and Household Number 9
the ongoing effects of globalization and neoliberalism. Household Number 2
This 22-year-old working woman lives with flatmates. She
eats most of her meals at the office during the week and
Empirical Analysis: Food Consumption
explained: “I usually skip my lunch, so I’ll eat breakfast
Patterns and Practices
and heavy snacks,” such as sandwiches and fruits. On the
Results of the Micro-Level Analysis: Studying weekends, the flatmates enjoy eating out and consuming
Household Food Consumption snacks at home, when watching TV series. These snacks
include chips and dips, fried seaweed, or ice cream. At home
There is no standard food consumption pattern among the
for dinner, the young woman might sometimes cook rice and
middle-class households that participated in our research: how
meat (primarily chicken and pork, and sometimes fish), but
much of what food people purchase and why depends on a num-
mostly eats out. Processed meats, such as hot dogs, are also
ber of factors, not least related to household composition, the
cooked at home, using a variety of sauces, such as tomato
presence of domestic help, and working patterns. The weekly,
sauce, chilli sauce, oyster sauce, or gravy mix. When asked
per capita household purchase of food in weight is presented in
what has changed the most since her childhood, she says she
figure 1. An outlier stands out (HH30) and is described in Box 1.
is eating more meals outside of the home. Their flat is located
next to several fast food restaurants, which results in her also
BOX 1: Household Number 30
eating more fast food since moving to this area.
This young man lives with his working mother and attends Household Number 9
a local university. Both eat their breakfast at home and This 50-year-old unmarried woman lives in a boarding house
usually eat out for lunch during the week, with the son near the university campus, where she works. On weekdays,
mostly frequenting fast food shops, for the price, taste, and she eats most of her meals at the school cafeterias. Over her
convenience. On weekends, his mother purchases and cooks lifetime, she has lived between Metro Manila and her birth-
“huge amounts of food,” as he puts it. She tends to buy place of Davao, including a few months in Sydney, for her
produce in bulk, then prepare food for the extended family studies then again to apply for permanent residency, as well as
that visits their home, but also for other families living in their a few months in Chicago, where she has family. In the morn-
compound. She likes to prepare sufficient food so as to have ing and on weekdays, she will have orange juice and yogurt at
leftovers available throughout the week. Though there are home, which is not a common breakfast in the Philippines.
only two members in their household, cooking for neighbors She learned this when living in Australia and feels that it con-
and extended family may explain the high amount of food tributes to a healthy diet. Every 2 weeks, she goes to Cavite
purchased per week, 20 kg per person. Whether she gives (southwest of Manila) to visit family and brings food back,
food away for charity or monetary return remains unclear. including different prepared dishes. When she visits Davao,
She also claims to buy meat in bulk, when on sale in the she will also bring back bisayang manok, a type of chicken that
supermarkets, to then store in the freezer—which could also is not available in northern Philippines. When asked what
explain the high amount of meat purchased in a given week. she has at home, she replies “all we have there are biscuits.”

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Figure 1 Household food purchases, among the Metro Manila sample. Other processed products include biscuits, sauces, and so on, and
excludes processed food included in other categories. These figures exclude the ready-made food ordered at home and food consumed
outside the household. As an indication, the reported frequency of food order in the household is also shown.

Ordering prepared food at home was a common practice she would like to cook more fish, she finds that cooking ground
in our sample, though because of practical constraints, the pork is easier than preparing fish, particularly because she
quantity of food ordered or received at home could not be has a young child who likes pork dishes. When she eats out,
assessed. Approximately 40% of the households report ordering however, she tends to order fish dishes. Religion is not an
food from outside. Most of them order relatively rarely (once a explanation for some households not consuming pork, given
week or less). However, a respondent in a household composed that most of the households are Christian. These preferences
of three flatmates below 35 years old reports ordering food for different meats seem to relate to personal taste, developed
once a day on the weekdays, and two to three times during the over the course of a lifetime. Only HH18 reports purchasing
weekend, mostly at fast food restaurants. Several households mutton/lamb, because this type of meat is typically imported
reported ordering food eight times per week. For two students into the Philippines and can be costly, compared to pork.
in their twenties who live together in a shared flat, ordering In HH09, the respondent indicated that though she eats
is a matter of convenience, but also more cost-effective. They meat, none is purchased at home. If we were to consider only
often order in quantities that allow them to have leftovers for the survey on food purchases, we would mistakenly conclude
the next day. Though they recognize that cooking at home that this person has a vegetarian diet. In fact, most of her meals
might be better for their health, they turn to prepared food for occur outside the home, as described in Box 2. For her, living
convenience because they both work and have no domestic abroad has changed her consumption patterns, showing the
help. Household members tend to eat outside or order food less influence of mobility on local consumption. Travel within the
frequently when domestic helpers are present. For instance, Philippines is also a way to bring foods from other localities
one respondent mentioned that she stopped ordering food from back to her home in Metro Manila.
outside once she employed a domestic helper. Sixty percent of the households purchase canned meat and
processed meat. For instance, in HH12, 70% of meat purchases
Meat and Dairy Products consist of canned meat. The respondent works at a bank and
No household reports a vegetarian diet. Some households lives alone, and finds that storing canned goods is a convenient
consume a wide range of meat categories, especially chicken, way to prepare quick meals at home. As a former U.S. colony,
pork, and beef/buffalo. Others display clear preferences for the Philippines have made canned goods available since the
certain types of meat (figure 2). For instance, several households late nineteenth century. Over several generations, canned
do not consume pork; in contrast, pork makes up for around meats have become staples in Filipino pantries, including the
70% of the meat consumption in HH17. One reason for this is ever-popular Spam. Convenience in preparing is one reason
that the woman cooking for this household tends to shop at a for purchasing such goods, but also convenience in storage,
supermarket, which is conveniently located on her way home because these items can have longer shelf lives than fresh
from work and where ground pork is readily available. Though produce: Before the mass production of refrigeration, canned

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Figure 2 Household meat purchases, among the Metro Manila sample. Excluding ready-made food ordered at home and food consumed
outside the household.

goods was an excellent way to store foods in a tropical climate tles for their young children for perceptions around health and
and have food ready in emergency situations, such as flooding. safety. Tap water is generally not perceived to be healthy and
Dairy products are purchased in smaller quantities than water pipes are not considered reliable. Filtered water is readily
meat products (figure 1). Consumption of powdered milk is available across town, delivered mostly by men on bicycles
frequently reported, sometimes in larger quantities than fresh working for small-to-medium enterprises. Households purchase
milk. This is the case in HH04, where the mother feels that water distributors, which range from manual machines, to
certain powdered milk brands offer vitamin supplements, electrical devices that generate hot and cold water. Once in
which she perceives as being healthier for her small children. possession of such an appliance, people tend to be locked into
purchasing large water bottles from their local distributors.
Processed Foods and Imported Products Besides drinking, some households use drinkable water for
Almost all households report consuming processed food. cooking, cleaning, and washing food, again tied to perceptions
The fraction of processed food related to the weekly food around health and safety. The weekly per capita water con-
purchases ranges from 6% to 52% (figure 3). Bread, processed sumption varies considerably between households, and in all
meat, and fish (including canned meat) and ice cream are cases the quantity of water consumed is low: 7.2 kg per week
reported most frequently. Instant noodles are also popular and per capita, on average, which hardly makes 1 L per person
can be purchased in stores across the country, related again to per day, what can be considered a small amount—although
convenience in storage and preparation. household members may be drinking more outside the home.
Whereas 77% of respondents claimed that they purchase
imported foods, it was not possible to quantify these products.
Validating Our Findings Over Time: Macro-Level
Related to this was the lack of knowledge about the origin of
Analysis on National Trends
food items: When asked where milk comes from, for example,
one respondent answered “the supermarket” and was unable The macro-level analysis based on national statistics
to suggest as to whether the milk was imported or drawn from shows that between 2003 and 2009 the consumption of
cows in the Philippines. cereals—including rice, a staple food in the Philippines—has
increased (figure 5), in terms of expenditure. This is also true
Beverages for dairy products. However, what is surprising to see is that
Beverages quantities consumed by households vary greatly consumption of fresh fruits, vegetables, meat, fish, and eggs has
(figure 4). Converted to mass, beverage purchases exceed food actually reduced, even processed meat. This could be explained
purchases in most of the households. The main part consists of by the fact that there has been an increasing tendency either
water, except HH17, where cold drinks make up for a similar to consume already prepared food at home or to eat outside,
amount as water (to avoid double counting, milk is not included as well as the already high cost of meat products in relation to
as beverage, but as dairy product). Though tap water in Metro total household expenditures.
Manila is theoretically drinkable, at least in some areas, 80% of The consumption of beverages has remained fairly constant
the households report purchasing water in large bottles (19 L), over time, but expenditure on carbonated drinks has actually
whereas 20% filter or treat tap water directly at home. Even in declined from 2,465 Philippine peso (PhP) in 2003 to PhP1,656
the latter case, two households mention purchasing water bot- in 2009 (not shown in the figure). Similarly, consumption of

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Figure 3 Processed and nonprocessed food consumption in the weekly household food purchase.

Figure 4 Beverage consumption in the households. This excludes beverages consumed outside the household.

alcoholic beverages has declined marginally at home. Because household size (figure 6) and is considered to be a significant
households consume more food outside the home, it is possible trend at the national level. Average annual food expenditure
that the consumption of carbonated drinks and alcoholic on eating food outside increased from 17% in 2003 to 20% in
beverages outside have also increased, which is captured in the 2009. Most of the expenditure is on eating meals at work, which
data but difficult to disaggregate. There are no differences in increases consistently with the size of the household, implying
consumption patterns across male- or female-headed house- that households with more working members spend more
holds, including the general trend toward eating out. This is income on food at the workplace. Similarly, there is an increase
not surprising, considering the high female labor participation in expenditure on meals at school across all household sizes.
in the Philippines. Across age groups, there was a marginal This could imply that because of the availability of cheap meals
decline in the consumption of food ordered in, among those at school and at work, households prefer to consume out. Based
younger than 30, but an overall increase in all other groups. on observations gathered during fieldwork, the cost of eating
One important trend among the urban middle class in the out varies widely: A meal of meat and rice can be purchased
Philippines is the increasing tendency of households to eat for PhP50 at a roadside carinderia or eatery; for PhP80 in a
outside. This phenomenon seems to be more prevalent among workplace cafeteria; for PhP90 at a fast food restaurant; or for
younger (25 to 40 years) and middle-age groups (41 to 55 years), PhP220 at a restaurant that caters to middle-class groups (often
yet the tendency to eat out increased for all age groups and also entailing larger food portions). Whereas 200 grams of raw

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Figure 5 Food consumption expenditures among the middle classes in Philippines, all households (real values, base year 2006).

Figure 6 Food consumption expenditures outside of home, by household size among the middle class in the Philippines.

pork costs around PhP40, purchasing all ingredients to make a access to fast food between work place and home, it becomes
similar meal at home would most likely represent a higher total convenient to eat out rather than cook. The average food
cost for a single person, if we were to include rice, cooking expenditure among households has increased over time, which
oils, gas, and electricity for cooking, electricity for cooling can partly be explained by rising prices, but also by changing
spaces (fan or air-conditioning), in addition to the time needed consumption practices related to eating out. The inflation rate
to prepare the meal and increasingly small size of cooking in 2003 in Philippines was around 3.1% and increased in the
spaces—particularly in new condominiums (Saloma 2015). subsequent years before declining to 3.2% in 2009.
Eating in restaurants is more popular among households with
smaller family size (one to four members) than bigger families,
Environmental Impact of Food Consumption Patterns
which can be related to the cost of eating out. Eating in becomes
and Practices
more attractive in terms of volume of food purchased, prepared,
and consumed. In households where the family size is less than In this section, we consider the environmental impacts of
four members, around 50% have single earning members, and different food categories that we found to be significant in our
around 40% are dual earners; in the remaining households, research. Starting with meat consumption, the total LCA envi-
there are more than two earning members. The tendency to ronmental impacts of meat are higher than vegetarian food by a
eat out among these households could be owing to lack of time factor of 7 to 9 times, depending on different geographical areas,
given that both the male and female members work. With easy climate, soil characteristics, crop rotation cycles, and different

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sorts of inputs for cultivation (Jungbluth 2000; Jungbluth et al. categories potentially relevant with respect to the consumption
2000). Grazing animals have higher environmental impacts patterns observed are climate change resulting from GHGs,
compared to poultry and pork, given that the overall impact of ecosystem quality resulting from aquatic ecotoxicity, eutroph-
meat products is primarily governed by agricultural production ication, terrestrial acidification/nitrification primarily resulting
of feedstock and the efficiency of conversion of this feedstock from the high use of chemical pesticides and fertilizers to grow
to animal mass (Jungbluth 2000). Since the 1960s and 1970s, food for animals and land used for grazing and animal rearing,
the Philippines adopted measures of the Green Revolution and resource depletion resulting from nonrenewable energy use.
and increased its consumption of chemical fertilizers and
pesticides in the agricultural production of feedstock and food
(World Bank 2011b). Livestock in the Philippines is also a Conclusion
large consumer of genetically modified feedstock, including
cottonseeds products and corn (Luces 2014). The middle class in Metro Manila represents a diverse group
In 2010, the Philippines was consuming 149 kg of nitroge- of people whose consumption patterns and practices can relate
nous, potash, and phosphate fertilizers per hectare of arable to many factors. We found that eating out has become an
land, well above the world average consumption of 132.6 kg/ha important practice, a finding that was substantiated through the
(World Bank 2011b). Such heavy use of chemical fertilizers and analysis of national surveys. This trend merits further research,
pesticides over the years is related to several local and global given that it causes a shift of resource consumption, such as
adverse environmental impacts, including (1) loss of fish stocks food, electricity, and gas, from households to the service sector.
and weedy green vegetables that traditionally coexisted with Food and packaging waste (including one-time-use containers,
rice paddies, (2) reduction in the diversity of fish and frog species cutlery, and napkins) could also increase when eating out. In
found in paddy fields (Layosa 2007), and (3) increased GHG addition to entertainment and leisure, convenience and cost-
emissions resulting from consumption of chemical fertilizers and effectiveness were identified as key factors for both eating out
pesticides. Methane released from reared livestock for food pro- and ordering in, whereas the presence of domestic helpers tends
duction is also known to be a significant contributor to global to counteract this trend. Quantitative household consumption
GHG emissions (FAO 2008; Watson et al. 1992; IPCC 2007). surveys might overlook this shift and underestimate the actual
In addition, excessive use of fertilizers may contribute to the loss consumption of households. The mismeasurement of eating
of valuable nutrients such as phosphorus (Childers et al. 2011). out in consumption surveys of developing countries has been
In general, processed food has higher environmental impacts highlighted in the literature; in India, missing data on eating
compared to fresh produce (Kroyer 1995). For food that has to be out are identified as one reason for inconsistencies in calorie
industrially processed at the preretail stage, impacts can be ex- consumption analyses (Smith 2013). The increasingly global
tremely high. For example, the processing of bread contributes discourse around food waste presents households as playing
up to one third of its total impacts (Andersson and Ohlsson an important role in reducing such waste; yet food waste in
1999). In contrast, food packaging is seen to be of minor impor- the service industry could be prioritized for further research
tance in terms of LCEIs (Jungbluth et al. 2000). In Switzerland, and policy action. Resource efficiency measures to reduce food
food packaging is measured to make up only around 7% of the waste or food-related waste in urban centers, as well as to close
weight of sold food (Faist et al. 2001), although this does not ac- nutrient cycles, may be more effectively achieved within the
count for food sold in the dining sector. Whereas environmental dining industry, rather than at the level of individual homes.
impacts of food packaging are significant, its role in keeping food As we have shown, the practice of food consumption
safe and unspoilt is important: Food packaging can be important is very much a “local” affair, embedded in specific cultural
in reducing the total LCEI of a food product (Andersson et al. contexts and related to historical trajectories and institutional
1998; Williams et al. 2012), particularly in cases where the envi- settings. Yet, food consumption patterns at the local level
ronmental impact of the food is relatively higher than its pack- have implications in terms of regional and global impacts.
aging, as is the case with perishable foods such as cheese or bread. Our impact assessment review suggests that middle-class food
In cases where tap water is potable, municipal systems for consumption practices in Metro Manila probably exert a high
water distribution have much lower environmental impacts pressure on the environment, particularly in relation to meat
compared to single-use bottles (Nessi et al. 2012; Dettore and dairy products, processed and imported food, and beverages,
2009). In the United States, tap water consumes 11 to 31 times specifically bottled water. This effect might be exacerbated with
less energy than single-use bottles and outperform bottles with time. For instance, per capita meat consumption is growing at a
respect to life cycle energy, solid waste, GHG emission, and faster rate in Asia than in other regions of the world, across all
water use (Dettore 2009). Studies are lacking on the impact meat types (OECD-FAO 2013). A detailed impact assessment
of home filtered water compared to water delivered from based on local data sets is recommended to substantiate this
community filtering stations, as is the case in Metro Manila. hypothesis, in order to deliver relevant policy recommenda-
As a result of their considerable consumption of meat, dairy, tions: for example, comparing impacts of bottled water through
and packaged food, the urban middle classes in Metro Manila are city-wide or household-level filtering technologies.
predicted to have much higher LCEIs compared to other popu- We observed a recurrent presence of processed products
lations who consume less of these products. The LCA damage among the surveyed households, driven mainly by convenience

Burger Chakraborty et al., Urban Food Consumption in Metro Manila 567


R E S E A R C H A N D A N A LY S I S

and cost-effectiveness. Whereas most households recognize Lorraine Mangaser, Abigail Favis, and Christine Camata. The
processed foods as being unhealthy, some people associate authors also extend their thanks to all household members who
processed products, such as powdered milk and bottled water, participated in our study. Please note that the views expressed
with higher levels of hygiene and safety. The nutritional in this article are those of individuals and not those of the
quality and environmental implications of processed food, as organizations that they represent.
well as perceptions around these products, would merit further
exploration. Consumption of processed food is associated with
the “nutrition transition” of developing countries, and poten- Note
tial health-related implications are obesity, diabetes, and other 1. These income brackets, based on the 2009 National Statistics
nutrition-related chronic diseases (Monteiro et al. 2010a). Office definition of the middle class, include: lower middle-class:
The value of combining both qualitative and quantitative PhP280,000–PhP980,000; average middle class: PhP981,000–
readings of household food consumption was clearly demon- PhP1,700,000; upper middle class: PhP1,700,000–PhP2,300,000).
strated in this research, given that food quantities could not One household did not report their income category. In May 2013,
be properly understood without qualitative discussions with PHP100 equaled approximately US$2.
household members. Contextualizing quantitative findings so-
cially and culturally provided new insights on the observed
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Tukker, A., G. Huppes, J. Guinée, R. Heijungs, A. de Koning, L. About the Authors
van Oers, S. Suh, et al. 2006. Environmental impact of products Laura Burger Chakraborty is a sustainability consultant
(EIPRO): Analysis of the life cycle environmental impacts related to based in Delhi, India. Marlyne Sahakian is a research associate
the final consumption of the EU-25. Technical report EUR 22284
in the Industrial Ecology Group of the University of Lausanne,
EN. Main report. Seville, Spain: European Commission, Joint Re-
Lausanne, Switzerland. Uma Rani is a senior economist in
search Centre (DG JRC), Institute for Prospective Technological
Studies. the Research Department at the International Labour Office
Tukker, A., M. Cohen, K. Hubacek, and O. Mont. 2010. Editorial: Sus- in Geneva, Switzerland. Megha Shenoy is an independent
tainable consumption and production. Journal of Industrial Ecology industrial ecologist based in Bangalore, India. Suren Erkman
14(1): 1–3. is a professor of industrial ecology at the University of Lausanne.

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