Diy Home Repair

copyright © 2008 President/CEO.
Ken Fund
Creative Publishing international, Inc. VP for Sales & Marketing: Kevin Hamric
400 First Avenue North, Suite 300
Minneapolis, Minnesota 55401 Home Improvement Group
1-800-328-0590
wwwcreativepub.com Publisher- Bryan Trandem
All rights reserved Managing Editor- Tracy Stanley
Senior Editor: Mark Johanson
Printed in Singapore Editor: Jennifer Gehlhar
10987654321 Creative Director- Michele Lanci-Altomare

Senior Design Managers. Jon Simpson, Brad Springer
Library of congress Cataloging-in-publication Data Design Manager: James Kegley
The complete photo guide to home repa ir: with 350 projects and Lead Photographer: Steve Galvin
over 2000 photos. Photo Coordinator- Joanne Wawra
p.cm. Shop Manager: Bryan McLain
Includes index. Shop Assistant: Cesar Fernandez Rodriguez
Summary: "Features more than 200 essential home repa ir
projects, including common wiring, plumbing, interior and exterior Production Managers: Linda Halls, Laura Hokkanen
repairs" --Provided by publ isher.
ISBN-13: 978-1-58923-417-8 (soft cover) Page Layout Artist: Danielle Smith
ISBN-10: 1-58923-417-0 (soft cover)
1. Dwellings--Maintenance and repa ir--Amateurs' manuals. I. Title.
TH4817 .3.C6552oo8
643'.7 --dc22
2008016520
The Complete Photo Guide to Home Repair

Created by The Editors of Creative Publishing international, Inc, in cooperation with Black & Decker.
Black & Decke r" is a trademark ofThe Black & Decker corporation and is used under license.
NOTICE TO READERS
For safety, use caution, care, and good judgment when following the procedures described in this book. The publisher
and Black & Decker cannot assume responsibility for any damage to property or injury to persons as a result of misuse
of the information provided.
The techniques shown in this book are general techniques for various applications. In some instances, additional
techniques not shown in this book may be required. Always follow manufacturers' instructions included with products,
since deviating from the directions may void warranties. The projects in this book vary widely as to skill levels required:
some may not be appropriate for all do-it-yourselfers, and some may require professional help.
Consult your local build ing depa rtment for information on building permits, codes, and other laws as they apply to
your project.
I Contributing Editors, Art Directors,
Set Builders, and Photographers
Phil Aarrestad, Glenn Austin, Randy Austin, Kim Bailey, Mark Biscan, Bill Lindner, Earl Lindquist, Daniel London, Barbara Lund, Curtis Lund,
Stewart Block, Rose Brandt, Gary Branson, Greg Breining, Mark Macemon, Bernice Maehren, Dave Mahoney, Paul Markert,
Dave Brus, Keith Bruzelius, Ron Bygness, Jennifer Caliandro, Brett Martin, Jamey Mauk, Bryan McLain, John Nadeau, Paul Najlis,
Rudy Calin, Tom carpenter, Dan cary, Julie Caruso, Janice cauley, Bill Nelson, Charles Nields, Mette Nielsen, Kristen Olson,
Tate Carlson, Marcia Chambers, Scott Christiansen, Tom Cooper, Carol Osterhus, Brad Parker, Mike Parker, Christian Paschke,
Paul Currie, cy DeCosse, Jim Destiche, Doug Deutsche, Mike Peterson, Greg Pluth, Anne Price-Gordon, John Riha,
Diane Dreon, Arthur Durkee, Barbara Falk, Jerri Farris, Cesar Rodriguez, Tom Rosch, Susan Roth, Andrea Rugg, Karen Ruth,
Mary Firestone, Steve Galvin, Jennifer Gehlhar, Abby Gnagey, Gary Sandin, Dave Schelitzche, Joel Schmarje, Philip Schmidt,
Patricia Goar, Paul Gorton, Lynne Hanauer, Barbara Harold, Joel Schnell, Mark Scholtes, Ned Scubic, Gina Seeling,
Carol Harvatin, Rebecca Hawthorne, Tom Heck, Jon Hegge, Cathleen Shannon, Mike Shaw, Hugh Sherwood, Jon Simpson,
Mike Hehner, Tami Helmer, Paul Herda, John Hermansen, Michel le Skudlarek, Steve Smith, Angela Spann, Brad Springer,
Jonathan Hinz, Sara Holle, Lori Holmberg, Jim Huntley, Rex Irmen, Dick Sternberg, Lori Swanson, Andrew Sweet, Dianne Talmage,
Mark Johanson, Troy Johnson, Kari Johnston, Rob Johnstone, Glenn Terry, Keith Thompson, Vryan Trandem, Gregory Wallace,
William B. Jones, Phi l Juntti, Andrew Karre, Patrick Kartes, Kevin Walton, Joanne Wawra, Robert Weaver, John Webb,
James Kegley, Geoffrey Kinsey, Tony Kubat, Michele Lanci·Altomare, Brad Webste r, wayne Wendland, John Whitman, Dan Widerski,
Marcus Landram, Karl Larson, John Lauenstein, Thomas Lemmer, Christopher Wilson, Mike Woodside
Interior Repairs • 3
Contents
The Complete Photo Guide
to Home Repair
Introduction . ............. 7 ceiling & Wall Techniques ..... 92 Replacing Wall Sheathing .......... 188
Painting Cabinets .... · ... 94 Repairing Siding .. ............. 190

Interior . ................. 9 Eliminating Stair squeaks .. · ... 96 Repairing Trim .................. 194
Repairing Floors .................. 10 Replacing a Broken Stair Tread .. . ... 98 Identifying Exterior Paint Problems ... 196
Repairing Joists . . ..... . ..... ... .. 12 Preparing to Paint ............... 198
Eliminating Floor squeaks ... . . 14 Maintaining Windows Applying Primer & Paint . ...... 202
Replacing Trim Moldings ... 16 & DOOrS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101
USing paint·spraying Equipment .... 208
Repairing Hardwood .... . . 18 Solving Common Door Problems .... 102
Staining siding .................. 212
Replacing a Damaged Floorboard .... 20 Weatherizing Basics .. · .. 108
Repairing Stucco . ..... 214
Replacing Sections of wood Floors ... 26 Replacing Thresholds. · .. 118
Maintaining & Repairing Concrete ... 216
Replacing Laminate Flooring ........ 28 Improving Window operation ...... 122
Identifying Problems
Repairing vinyl. . . .... 34 Repairing & Maintaining with Concrete ..... . ...... 218
Storm Windows & Doors. . . ..... 128
Repairing Ceramic Tile Floors ..... 38 patching Holes .................. 220
Installing New Window Sashes ..... 132
Repairing Carpet . ........... 40 Caulking Gaps around Masonry ..... 222
Securing Windows & Doors .. · .. 136
sealing Interior Concrete Floors ..... 44 Filling Cracks . ............ 224
Tuning Up Garage Doors .......... 142
Repairing Wallboard. . .. 50 Repairing Steps . .. 227
Removing Windows & Doors. · .. 148
Repairing Plaster ...... . ....... 55 Miscellaneous Concrete Repairs . . .. 230
Installing Prehung Interior Doors .... 150
Replacing Sheet Paneling ...... . . 58 Resurfacing a Concrete walkway ... 232
Installing Storm Doors .... · .. 154
Maintaining Wall Tile ... 60 Rebuilding Concrete Steps. . ..... 234
Hanging a New Door
Repairing Wallcovering ........ . . 64 Resurfacing a Patio Slab .......... 240
in an Old Jamb. . ... . ...... .. 156
Repairing Ceilings ...... . . .... 66 sealing Concrete Floors. ..244
Installing Entry Doors. .... 160
Repairing Water Damaged Walls painting Concrete Floors .......... 249
Installing Bifold Doors · .. 164
& Ceilings ....................... 68 Identifying Brick & Block Problems ... 252
Removing Wall & Ceiling Surfaces .... 70 Exterior Repairs . ..... . . . 167 Repairing Brick & Block Walls ...... 254
Final Inspection & Fixing Problems. 74 Inspecting & Repairing a Roof ...... 168 Cleaning & Painting Brick & Block ... 260
Ladders & Scaffolds. 76 Repairing wood Fascia & Soffits . ... 176 Repairing a Firebox . . . ..... 262
Paint Safety . . . ... . ... 78 Repairing Gutters ...... . · .. 178 Repairing Stonework ............. 264
Preparation Tools & Materials ....... 80 Repairing & Replacing Replacing Flagstone . . . .. 268
Room Preparation .. ..... 82 Chimney Caps ...... 182
Pressure washing Masonry
Primers & Sealers ....... . ....... 84 Evaluating Siding & Trim. . . . .. 184 & Stonework ............. 270
Trim Techniques. ... . 88 Removing Exterior siding . · .. 186 Repairing an Asphalt Driveway ..... 272
Maintaining a Deck ... 276 Fixing a Leaking Toilet ... 360 Wall Switch Basics ... · ..... 462
Repairing a Deck ........ .. .. .... 278 Fixing a Pressure-assisted Toilet .... 362 Testing Switches for Continuity ..... 470
Installing a Toilet. .... . .. 364 Fixing & Replacing Wall Switches ... 474
Plumbing & Wiring . ..... . 283
Clearing Clogs & Fixing Drains ...... 368 Installing Dimmer Switches ........ 478
The Home Plumbing system . . ..284
Clearing Clogged Sinks · .. 369 Repairing & Replacing
Working with Plastic Pipes ..... . ... 286 Incandescent Light Fixtures .. . .. 480
Fixing Leaky Sink Strainers .. · .. 371
Cutting & Fitting Repairing & Replacing
Clearing clogged Toilets ....... . ... 374
Rigid Plastic Pipe. . ..... ... . 288 Recessed Light Fixtures. . . . .. 485
Clearing Clogged
Working with Copper Pipe ......... 292 Repairing Chandeliers ...... . .. ... 488
Shower Drains · .. 375
Cutting & Soldering Copper. ..294 Repairing Track Lights ............ 490
Fixing Tub Drains .... · .. 376
Using Compression Fittings. . . .. .. 300 Repairing ceiling Fans · ..... 492
Clearing Clogged Drum Traps. · .. 378
using Flare Fittings . . . . . . . . . .. .. 302 Repairing & Replacing
Clearing Clogged Floor Drains ...... 379
Fluorescent Lights .. . . .... 494
working with Galvanized Iron . ..304
Clearing Clogs in Branch
Replacing a Plug ........... . ..... 500
Working with Cast Iron ............ 308 and Main Drain Lines .. . .. 380
Replacing a Lamp Socket. . .. 502
Repairing Valves & Hose Bibs ....... 312 Advanced Clog Clearing ... · .. 382
Installing an Electrical Box ......... 504
Installing & Repairing Sillcocks ..... 314 Fixing a Water Heater. · .. 386
Fixing & Replacing Doorbells ....... 506
Installing Pedestal Sinks. · ... 316 Fixing a Gas Water Heater. · .. 388
Installing Hardwired Smoke, Carbon
Installing Integral vanity TOps ...... 318 Fixing an Electric Water Heater ..... 390
Monoxide (CO) and Heat Alarms .... 510
Installing a Drop-in Kitchen Sink 320 Replacing a Water Heater ... · .. 392
Repairing & Replacing Phone Jacks .. 512
Fixing Leaky Faucets. . ...... 322 Maintaining a Water Softener ...... 400
Fixing Ball-type Faucets ....... . ... 324 Maintaining Septic systems .. · .. 402
Heating, Ventilation
Fixing Cartridge Faucets · ... 326 Fixing Burst or Frozen Pipes ....... 404 & Air Conditioning . ..... . 517
Fixing Compresssion Faucets ...... 328 Quieting Noisy Pipes . . .... 406 Maintaining Gas
Fixing Disc Faucets ..... . ... . 332 Installing a Food Disposer. 408 Forced-air Systems . . . . .. . .. ... 518
Replacing a Sink Faucet .. . .. 334 Maintaining a Dishwasher. · .. 414 Maintaining Hot Water
& Steam systems .......... . ..... 528
Installing Shutoff Valves Your Electrical System ....... . .... 416
& supply Tubes .................. 338 Identifying & Repairing
Understanding Circuits ... · .. 420 Exhaust Leaks .................. 533
Fixing Sprayers & Aerators .. . .. 340
Electricity & Safety. . . . ..... 422 Repairing Electric
Tub & Shower Plumbing .. 342 Baseboard Heaters ... . . . ...... 534
Fuses & Circuit Breakers. . . .. 424
Fixing Three-handle Tub Repairing Wall-mounted
Evaluating Old wiring ............. 426
& Shower Faucets .. . ..... ... . 344 Electric Heaters .. · ..... 536
Inspector's Notebook. . ......... 430
Fixing Two-handle Tub Servicing Thermostats ............ 538
& Shower Faucets. . .. . ......... 346 Common Receptacle Problems ..... 444
Installing a Ridge Vent ...... . .. .. . 546
Fixing Single-handle Tub Receptacle wiring .. . · .. 446
& Shower Faucets ..... . · ... 348 Installing New Vents .. · ..... 548
Testing Receptacles for Power,
Fixing & Replacing Showerheads .... 350 Grounding & Polarity ............. 452
Common Toilet Problems .......... 352 Repairing & Replacing Receptacles .. 454 Reference Charts . ...... . 550
Making Minor Adjustments ........ 354 Installing GFCI Receptacles ........ 456
Fixing a Running Toilet. ....... . ... 355 Common Wall-switch Problems ..... 460 Index ................. 552
•
-
I
Introduction
s millions of homeowners have discovered over the years, there's a good reason for the enduring popularity of
A Ｗｾ･＠ Complete Photo Guide to Home Repair: it's got everything. Every major system and surface in and around
the house is covered with in-depth how-to text and detailed photos. No filler, nothing you don 't need- it's full of
hundreds of projects and thousands of photos to help you keep your hom e in top shape. It's no wonder this is the
bestselling home repair book on the market.
This third edition includes all the best of previous editions, as well as new repair projects for evelY area of the
house. All projects include:
• Step-by-step instructions full of pro tips and techniques. Our home improvement experts give you clear,
concise directions to help you from start to finish.
• Color photos of every stage of a project. Clear, realistic photos illustrate every step of the project so you'll
know exactly hat to expect.
• Detailed anatomy photos and illustrations. We go to great lengths to show all the aspects of tool, system, or
project, so you won 't be left in the dark.
Every area of the house is covered. In the interiors section , you'll find comprehensive repairs for basements,
walls, floors, and ceilings. There's detailed information on minor and major repairs to flooring materials from
carpet to contemporary laminate materials. You'll learn everything from how to make your existing windows more
energy efficient to replacing old windows with the latest high-efficiency windows.
\l\Then it comes to exterior repairs, we've got you covered for all essential maintenance and repairs to your
home's exterior, including tips for winterizing and improving energy efficiency. \l\Te'li show you how to patch
a leaky roof and repair and restore a worn patio, deck, or sidewalk. Repairs to every major siding material are
a Iso covered.
Repairs to wiring, plumbing, and heating-ventilation-and-air-conditioning systems can be the most
intimidating for homeowners, and they're almost always the most expensive to hire out. Armed with this book,
you'll have all the information and direction you need to tackle common wiring and plumbing projects with
confidence. \l\Thether you've got a running toilet or a problem with old wiring, odds are you'll find a clear,
effective solution in this book- without a cal l to an electrician or a p lum ber.
As a homeowner, you know your home is your biggest investment. The Complete Photo Guide to Home Repair
is your indispensable resource for maximizing your return on that investment.
• 7
IL....--_ _ _ _______
Interior
In this chapter:
• Repairing Floors
• Repairing Joists
• Eliminating Floor Squeaks
• Replacing Trim Moldings
• Repairing Hardwood
• Replacing a Damaged Floorboard
• Replacing Sections of Wood Floors
• Replacing Laminate Flooring
• Repairing Vinyl
• Repairing Ceramic Tile
• Repairing Carpet
• Sealing Interior Concrete Floors
• Repairing Wallboard
• Repairing Plaster
• Replacing Sheet Paneling
• Maintaining Wall Tile
• Repairing Wallcovering
• Repairing Ceilings
• Repairing Water Damaged Walls & Ceilings
• Removing Wall & Ceiling Surfaces
• Final Inspection & Fixing Problems
• Ladders & Scaffolds
• Paint Safety
• Preparation Tools & Materials
• Room Preparation
• Primers & Sealers
• Trim Techniques
• Ceiling & Wall Techniques
• Painting Cabinets
• Eliminating Stair Squeaks
• Replacing a Broken Stair Tread
• 9
I Repairing Floors
F loor coverings wea r out faster than other
inte rior surfaces beca use th ey get more wea r
and tear. Surface damage ca n affect more than just
on to the sub floor. Bathroom fl oo rs suffe r the most
from moisture problems. S ubfloorin g can pull
loose from joi sts, ca us in g floor s to beco me un even
a ppeara nce. Scratches in resilient flooring and cracks and spri ngy.
in grouted tile joints can let moi stu re into the floor's You can fix these problems yourse lf, suc h as
underpinnings. Hardwood floors lose th e ir finish and sg ueaks, a broken sta ir tread , damaged baseboard
beco me discolored. Loose boards sg ueak. and trim , an d minor damage to floor coverings,
Underneath the finished floorin g, moisture with the tools and technigues s how n on the
ruins wood underlayment and the damage is passed fo ll ow ing pages .
--. ::;--- ｾ＠
-- --=- '-
-- --
- _
...:.
- , Floor cover'ng
A typical wood,frame floor consists of layers that work together to provide the required structural support and desired
appearance: 1. At the bottom of the floor are the joists, the 2 x 10 or larger framing members that support the weight of the floor.
Joists are typically spaced 16" apart on center. 2. The subfloor is nailed to the joists Most subfloors installed in the 1970s or later are
made of J;4' tongue-and-groove plywood; in older houses, the subfloor often consists of 1"-thick wood planks nailed diagonally across
the floor joists 3. On top of the subfloor, most builders place a '12" plywood underlayment. Some flooring materials, especially ceramic
tile, require cementboard for stability. 4. For many types of floor coverings, adhesive or mortar is spread on the underlayment before
the floor covering is installed. carpet rolls generally require tackless strips and cushioned padding. 5. other materials, such as snap-fit
laminate planks or carpet squares, can be installed directly on the underlayment with little or no adhesive.
10 • THE CO I\ IPLETE PHOTO GU ID E TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

I Tips for Evaluating Floors
When installing new flooring High thresholds often indicate that Buckling in solid hardwood floors
over old, measure vertical spaces to several layers of flooring have already indicates that the boards have loosened
make sure enclosed or under-counter been installed on top of one another. from the subfloor. Do not remove
appliances will fit once the new If you have several layers, it's best to hardwood floors. Instead, refasten
underlayment and flooring are installed. remove them before installing the new loose boards by drilling pilot holes
Use samples of the new underlayment floor covering and inserting flooring nails or screws.
and floor covering as spacers New carpet can be installed right over
when measuring. a well-fastened hardwood floor. New
ceramic tile or resilient flooring should
be installed over underlayment placed
on the hardwood flooring.
Loose tiles may indicate widespread Air bubbles trapped under resilient Cracks in grout joints around ceramic
failure of the adhesive. Use a wallboard sheet flooring indicate that the adhesive tile are a sign that movement of the
knife to test tiles. If tiles can be pried has failed. The old flooring must be floor covering has caused, or has been
up easily in many different areas of the removed before the new covering can caused by, deterioration of the adhesive
room, plan to remove all of the flooring. be installed. layer. If more than 10% of the tiles are
loose, remove the old flooring. Evaluate
the condition of the underlayment (see
opposite page) to determine if it also
must be removed.
I Repairing Joists
seve re ly arched , bulged , c rac ked, or sagging floor
A joist can only get worse over tim e, eve ntu all y
deformin g the floor above it. Correcting a proble m
Tools & Materials ｾ＠
joist is a n easy repair and makes a bi g difference in 4-ft. leve l 3" lag sc rews
yo ur finished floor. It's best to id e ntiry prob lem joi sts Rec iprocating saw with wash ers
a nd fix the m before installing yo ur unde rlayme nt and Ha mm e r Framing lumber
new floor coverin g. C hi sel 16d co mmon nail s
One way to fix joist probl e ms is to faste n a few Adjustable wre nch Hardwood shim s
new joi sts next to a dam age d floor joi st in a process Tape meas ure Meta l jack posts
ca ll ed sistering. When in stallin g a new joi st , yo u Ratc het wre nc h
may need to notc h th e bottom edge so it can fit over
the foundation or bea m. If th a t's th e case with yo ur
joists, cut th e notch es in th e e nd s no deepe r th a n '/s"
of the actual depth of the joist.
I How to Repair a Bulging Joist
Find the high point of the bulge in Use the measurement and reference When the joist has settled, reinforce
the floor using a level. Mark the high point from the last step to mark the it by centering a board of the same
point and measure the distance to a high point on the joist from below the height and at least 6 ft. long next to it.
reference point that extends through floor. From the bottom edge of the Fasten the board to the joist by driving
the floor, such as an exterior wall or joist, make a straight cut into the joist 12d common nails in staggered pairs
heating duct. just below the high point mark using a about 12" apart. Drive a row of three
reciprocating saw. Make the cut 'I, of the nails on either side of the cut in the joist.
depth of the joist. Allow several weeks
for the joist to straighten.

I How to Repair a Cracked or Sagging Joist
I r
I I 1
J I
I r r
I j 1I
f J
Identify the cracked or sagging joist Place a level on the bottom edge of Nail two 6-ft. 2 x 4s together to make
before it causes additional problems. the joist to determine the amount of a cross beam, then place the beam
Remove any blocking or bridging above sagging that has occurred . Cut a sister perpendicular to the joists near one end
the sill or beam where the sister jOist joist the same length as the damaged of the joists. Position a jack post under
will go. joist. Place it next to the damaged joist the beam and use a level to make sure
with the crown side up. If needed, notch it's plumb before raising it.
the bottom edge of the sister joint so it
fits over the foundation or beam .
Raise the jack post by turning the threaded shaft until the Drill pairs of pilot holes in the sister joist every 12", then
cross beam is snug against the joists. Position a second jack insert 3" lag screws with washers in each hole. Cut the
post and cross beam at the other end of the joists. Raise the blocking or bridging to fit and install it between the joists in its
posts until the sister joist is flush with the subfloor. Insert original position.
tapered hardwood shims at the ends of the sister joist where it
sits on the sill or beam. Tap the shims in place with a hammer
and scrap piece of wood until they're snug.
I Eliminating Floor Squeaks
F loors squeak w hen floorboard s rub against eac h
other or aga in st the nails sec urin g th em to th e
subfloor. Hardwood floors sq ueak if th ey have n't been
nail ed properly. Normal c hanges in wood make so me
squeaking in evitabl e, although noi sy floors so met im es
indi cate seri ous structural problems. If an area of a
flo or is so ft or excessively sq ueaky, in spec t the fram ing
and the fo undation supportin g the floor.
\ ,vhenever possible, fix sq uea ks from underneath
the floor. Joi sts longer than 8 feet should have X-bridging
or solid blocking between each pair to help di stribute
the weight. If these supports aren't present, in stall th em
evety 6 feet to stiffen and help silence a noisy floor.
Drill Wood putty

Hammer Graphite powde r
Na il set Dance-floor wax
Putty knife Pipe straps
\,vood screws Hardwood shim s
F looring nails Wood glue
I How to Eliminate Floor Squeaks

2
If you can access floor joists from underneath, drive wood When you can't reach the floor from underneath,
screws up through the subfloor to draw hardwood flooring surface-nail the floor boards to the subfloor with ring-shank
and the subfloor together. Drill pilot holes and make certain flooring nails. Drill pilot holes close to the tongue-side edge of
the screws aren't long enough to break through the top of the the board and drive the nails at a slight angle to increase their
floorboards. Determine the combined thickness of the floor holding power. Whenever possible, nail into studs. Countersink
and subfloor by measuring at cutouts for pipes. the nails with a nail set and fill the holes with tinted wood putty.

Eliminate squeaks in a carpeted floor by using a special floor Eliminate squeaks in hardwood floors with graphite powder,
fasten ing device, called a squeeeeek No More, to drive screws talcum powder, powdered soap, mineral oil, or liquid wax.
through the subfloor into the joists. The device guides the Remove dirt and deposits from joints, using a putty knife. Apply
screw and controls the depth. The screw has a scored shank, graphite powder, talcum powder, powdered soap, or mineral oil
so once it's set, you can break the end off just below the between squeaky boards. Bounce on the boards to work the
surface of the subfloor. lubricant into the joints Clean up excess powder with a damp
cloth. Liquid wax is another option, although some floor finishes,
such as urethane and varnish, are not compatible with wax, so
check with the flooring manufacturer. Use a clean cloth to spread
wax over the noisy joints, forcing the wax deep into the joints.
In an unfinished basement or crawl space, copper water The boards or sheeting of a subfloor can separate from
pipes are usually hung from floor joists. Listen for pipes rubbing the joists, creating gaps. Where gaps are severe or appear
against joists. Loosen or replace wire pipe hangers to silence above several neighboring joists, the framing may need
the noise. Pull the pointed ends of the hanger from the wood, reinforcement, but isolated gapping can usually be remedied
using a hammer or pry bar. Lower the hanger just enough so with hardwood shims. Apply a small amount of wood glue to
the pipe isn't touching the joist, making sure the pipe is held the shim and squirt some glue into the gap. using a hammer,
firmly so it won't vibrate. Renail the hanger, driving the pointed tap the shim into place until it's snug Shimming too much
end straight into the wood. will widen the gap, so be careful. Allow the glue to dry before
walking on the floor.
I Replacing Trim Moldings
T here's no reason to let damaged trim moldings
detract from the appearance of a we ll-m a intained
room. With the right tools and a littl e attention
to detail, you can replace or repair them quickly
and eas il y.
Home centers and lumber yards sell many styles
of moldings, but they may not stock moldings found
in older homes. If you have trouble finding duplicates,
check sa lvage yards in your area. They sometimes
carry styles no lon ger manufactured. You can also try
combin ing several different moldings to duplicate a
more elaborate version.
Flat pry bars (2) Wood scraps

Coping saw Replacement moldings
Miter saw 2d, 4d, and 6d
Drill finish nails
Hammer Wood putty
Nai l set
I How to Remove Damaged Trim
Even the lightest pressure from a pry bar can damage To remove baseboards without damaging the wall, use
wallboard or plaster, so use a large, flat scrap of wood to leverage rather than force. pry off the base shoe first, using a
protect the wall. Insert one bar beneath the trim and work the flat pry bar. When you feel a few nails pop, move farther along
other bar between the baseboard and the wall. Force the pry the molding and pry again
bars in opposite directions to remove the baseboard.
16 • THE CO I\IPLETE PHOTO GU ID E TO HOI\IE HEPAIH

I How to Install Baseboards
2
Start at an inside corner by butting one piece of baseboard Cut along the outline on the workpiece with a coping saw,
securely into the corner. Drill pilot holes, then fasten the keeping the saw perpendicular to the baseboard face. Test -fit
baseboard with two 6d finish nails, aligned vertically, at each the coped end. Recut it, if necessary.
wall stud. Cut a scrap of baseboard so the ends are perfectly
square. Cut the end of the workpiece square. Position the
scrap on the back of the workpiece so its back face is flush
with the end of the workpiece. Trace the outline of the scrap
onto the back of the workpiece.
TO cut the baseboard to fit at outside corners, mark the Install base shoe molding along the bottom of the
end where it meets the outside wall corner. Cut the end at a baseboards. Make miter joints at inside and outside corners,
45° angle, using a power miter saw Lock-nail all miter joints and fasten base shoe with 2d finish nails. Whenever possible,
by drilling a pilot hole and driving 4d finish nails through complete a run of molding using one piece. For long spans, join
each corner. molding pieces by mitering the ends at parallel 45° angles. Set
nail heads below the surface using a nail set, and then fill the
holes with wood putty.
I Repairing Hardwood
darkened, dingy hardwood floor may only need
A a thorough cleaning to reveal an attractive,
healthy finish. If you have a fairly new or prefinished
hardwood floor, check with the manufacturer or
flooring installer before app lying any c leaning products
or wax. Most prefinished hardwood, for examp le,
should not be waxed.
\ l\Tater and other liquids can penetrate deep into
the grain of hardwood floors, leaving dark stains that
are sometim es impossible to remove by sand ing.
Instead, tty bleaching the wood with oxali c ac id ,
ava il able in crysta l form at home centers or paint Identify surface finishes using solvents. In an inconspicuous
area, rub in different solvents to see if the finish dissolves,
stores. \l\Then gouges, scratches, and dents aren't bad
softens, or is removed. Denatured alcohol removes shellac,
enough to warrant replacing a floorboard , repair the while lacquer thinner removes lacquer. If neither of those work,
damaged a t"ea with a latex wood patch that matches try nail polish remover containing acetone, which removes
the co lo r of your floot". varnish but not polyurethane.
Vacuum Hardwood c leaning kit Latex wood patch Hammer

Buffing machine Paste wax Sandpaper Caulk gun
Hammer Rubber gloves Drill Sp in e-s hank
Nai l set Oxalic acid Spade bit floori ng nai Is
Putty knife Vinegar C ircul ar saw Nai l set
C loths \l\Tood restorer Ch isel Wood putty
I How to Clean & Renew Hardwood
Vacuum the entire floor. Mix hot If the water and detergent When the floor is clean and dry, apply
water and dishwashing detergent don't remove the old wax, use a a high-quality floor wax. Paste wax is
that doesn't contain lye, trisodium hardwood floor cleaning kit Use more difficult to apply than liquid floor
phosphate, or ammonia. Working on only solvent-type cleaners, as some wax, but it lasts much longer. Apply the
3-ft-square sections, scrub the floor water-based products can blacken wax by hand, then polish the floor with
with a brush or nylon scrubbing pad. wood. Apply the cleaner following the a rented buffing machine fitted with
Wipe up the water and wax with a towel manufacturer's instructions. synthetic buffing pads.
before moving to the next section.

I How to Remove Stains
Remove the finish by sanding Let the liquid stand for one hour. Apply several coats of wood restorer
the stained area with sandpaper. Repeat the application, if necessary. until the bleached area matches the
In a disposable cup, dissolve the Wash with 2 tablespoons borax finish of the surrounding floor.
recommended amount of oxalic acid dissolved in one pint water to neutralize
crystals in water. wearing rubber gloves, the acid. Rinse with water, and let the
pour the mixture over the stained wood dry. Sand the area smooth.
area, taking care to cover only the
darkened wood.
I How to Patch Scratches & Small Holes

3
Before filling nail holes, make sure Scrape excess compound from Apply wood restorer to the sanded
the nails are securely set in the wood. the edges, and allow the patch to dry area until it blends with the rest of
Use a hammer and nail set to drive completely. Sand the patch flush with the floor.
loose nails below the surface. Apply the surrounding surface. using fine-grit
wood patch to the damaged area, using sandpaper, sand in the direction of the
a putty knife. Force the compound into wood grain.
the hole by pressing the knife blade
downward until it lies flat on the floor.
I Replacing a Damaged Floorboard
W hen so lid hardwood floorboards are beyond
repair, they need to be carefully cut out and
replaced with boards of the same width and thickness.
Replace whole boards whenever possible. If a board
is long, or if pat"t of its length is inaccessible, draw
a cutting lin e across the face of the board, and tape
behind the line to protect the section that wi ll remain.
DriJJ Replacement boards

Spade bit Masking tape
C ircu lar saw Construction
Chisel adhes ive
Hammer Spiral-shank
Caulk gun flooring nails
Na il set Wood putty
I How to Replace Damaged Floorboards

2
Draw a rectangle around the damaged area" Determine Determine the depth of the boards to be cut. With a drill
the minimal number of boards to be removed. To avoid nails, and %"-wide spade bit, slowly drill through a damaged board.
be sure to draw the line %" inside the outermost edge of Drill until you see the top of the subfloor. Measure the depth. A
any joints. common depth is %" or %". Set your circular saw to this depth.

4
To prevent boards from chipping, place masking tape or Align the circular saw with the wood cutting guide. Turn on
painter's tape along the outside of the pencil lines. To create the saw. Lower the blade into the cutline. Do not cut the last W'
a wood cutting guide, tack a straight wood strip inside the of the corners. Remove cutting guide. Repeat with other sides.
damaged area (for easy removal, allow nails to slightly stick
up). Set back the guide the distance between the saw blade
and the guide edge of the circular saw.
Complete the cuts. Use a hammer and sharp chisel to Remove split boards. Use a scrap 2 x 4 block for leverage
completely loosen the boards from the subfloor. Make sure and to protect the floor. With a hammer, tap a pry bar into and
the chisel's beveled side is facing the damaged area for a under the split board . Most boards pop out easily, but some
clean edge. may require a little pressure. Remove exposed nails with the
hammer claw.
(continued)
Use a chisel to remove the 2 remaining strips. Again, make Cut new boards. Measure the length and width ofthe area
sure the bevel side of the chisel is facing the interior of the to be replaced. Place the new board on a sawhorse, with the
damaged area. Set any exposed nails with your nail set. section to be used hanging off the edge. Draw a pencil cutline.
With saw blade on waste side of mark, firmly press the saw
guide against the edge of a framing square. Measure each
board separately.
To install the last board, chisel off the lower lip of the Pick a drill bit with a slightly smaller diameter than an
groove. Remove the tongue on the end of the board, if 8-penny finish nail, and drill holes at a 45' angle through
necessary. Apply adhesive to the board, and set it in place, the corner of the replacement piece's tongue every 3" to 4"
tongue first. along the new board. Hammer a 1W'-Iong, 8-penny finish nail
through the hole into the subfloor. Use a nail set to countersink
nails. Repeat until the last board.

11
lay the last board face down onto a protective 2 x 4 and To install the last board, hook the tongue into the groove of
use a sharp chisel to split off the lower lip This allows it to fit the old floor and then use a soft mallet to tap the groove side
into place. down into the previous board installed.
Drill pilot holes angled outward: two side-by-side holes Once the putty is dry, sand the patch smooth with fine-grit
about '/2' from the edges of each board, and one hole every sandpaper. Feather-sand neighboring boards. Vacuum and
12" along the groove side of each board. Drive W," -Iong, wipe the area with a clean cloth. Apply matching wood stain
8-penny finish nails through the holes. Set nails with a nail set. or restorer, then apply 2 coats of matching finish.
Fill holes with wood putty.
I How to Repair Splinters
1
If you still have the splintered piece of wood, but it has If the splinter is large, apply wood glue to the hole and
been entirely dislodged from the floor, it's a good bet that the splinter. Use a Q-Tip or toothpick to apply small amounts of
hollowed space left by the splinter has collected a lot of dirt wood glue under smaller splinters Soak the Q-Tip in glue;
and grime. Combine a 1:3 mixture of distilled white vinegar and you don't want Q-Tip fuzz sticking out of your floor once the
water in a bucket. Dip an old toothbrush into the solution and glue dries.
use it to clean out the hole left in the floor. While you're at it,
wipe down the splinter with the solution, too. Allow the floor
and splinter to thoroughly dry.
Press the splinter back into place. To clean up the excess Allow the adhesive to dry. Cover the patch with wax paper
glue, use a slightly damp, lint-free cloth . Do not oversoak the and a couple of books. Let the adhesive dry overnight.
cloth with water.
24 • THE CO I\ IPLETE PHOTO GU IDE TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

I How to Patch Small Holes in Wood Floors
Repair small holes with wood putty Use putty that matches Sand the area with fine (100- to 120-grit) sandpaper. Sand
the floor color. Force the compound into the hole with a putty with the wood grain so the splintered area is flush with the
knife. Continue to press the putty in this fashion until the surrounding surface. To better hide the repair, feather sand the
depression in the floor is filled . Scrape excess compound from area. Wipe up dust with a slightly damp cloth .
the area. Use a damp, lint-free cloth while the putty is still wet
to smooth the top level with the surrounding floor. Allow to dry.
With a clean, lint-free cloth, apply a

matching stain (wood sealer or "restorer")
to the sanded area. Read the label on the
product to make sure it is appropriate
for sealing wood floors. Work in the stain
until the patched area blends with the
rest of the floor. Allow area to completely
dry. Apply two coats of finish. Be sure the
finish is the same as that which was used
on the surrounding floor.
I Replacing Sections of Wood Floors
W he n a n inte rior wa lloI' sec tion of wa ll ha s
bee n re moved during re modeling, yo u'll need
to patch ga ps in the Roorin g where the wa ll was
located. Th ere a re several options for patc hin g Roars,
de pe nding on yo ur budget and the leve l of yo ur
do-it-yo urself skills.
If the existing Roorin g sh ows signs of wea r,
consider re plac ing th e e ntire Roorin g surface.
Although it ca n be expe ns ive, a n e ntire ly new Roor
covering w ill co mpl e tely hid e any gap s in the Roor
a nd provide an elega nt fini shing touch for yo ur
re mod eling proj ec t.
If yo u choose to patch th e ex isting Rooring,
be aware that it's difficult to hide patched
a reas co mplete ly, especia ll y if the Roorin g uses
uniqu e patterns or fini shes. A c reat ive so lution
is to inte ntion all y patch the Roor with mate ria l
that co ntrasts with th e surrounding Rooring
A quick, inexpensive solution is to install T-molding to
(opposite page). bridge a gap in a wood strip floor. T-moldings are especially
useful when the surrounding boards run parallel to the gap.
T-moldings are available in several widths and can be stained
to match the flooring.
When patching a wood-strip floor, one option is to remove all of the floor boards that butt against the flooring gap using a pry
bar and replace them with boards cut to fit. This may require you to trim the tongues from some tongue-and-groove floorboards.
Sand and refinish the entire floor so the new boards match the old .

I How to Use Contrasting Flooring Material
1 2
Fill gaps in floors with materials that have a contrasting color and pattern. For wood floors, parquet tiles are an easy and
inexpensive choice (above, left). You may need to widen the gap with a circular saw set to the depth of the wood covering to make
room for the contrasting tiles. To enhance the effect, cut away a border strip around the room and fill these areas with the same
contrasting flooring material (above, right).
Tips for Patching Floors ｾ＠
Build up the subfloor in the patch Make a vinyl or carpet patch by Install a carpet patch using
area, using layers of thin plywood and laying the patch material over the heatactivated carpet tape and a
building paper, so the new surface will old flooring, then cutting through rented seam iron. Original carpet
be flush with the surrounding flooring. both layers. When the cut strip of old remnants are ideal for patching. New
You may need to experiment with flooring is removed, the new patch carpet, even of the same brand, style
different combinations of plywood and will fit tightly in its place. If flooring and color, will seldom match the
paper to find the right thickness. material is patterned, make sure the original carpet exactly.
patterns are aligned before you cut.
I Replacing Laminate Flooring
I n the eve nt th at yo u need to re pl ace a Laminate
pla nk, you mu st first determine how to re move th e
damaged plank. If you have a glueless "floatin g" floor
it is best to unsnap a nd remove eac h plank starting at
the wa ll and moving in until you reac h th e da maged
pla nk. However, if the damaged pl ank is far from th e
wall it is more time -efficient to cut out th e damaged
pl a nk. Full y-bo nded laminate planks have adhesive
all along the bottom of the plank and a re sec ured
direc tly to th e und erlayme nt. \Nhe n yo u re move
th e damaged plank yo u run th e ri sk of go uging th e
subfloor, so we reco mm e nd calling in a profess ional
if you find that yo ur laminate planks are completely
glued to the subfloor.
Circular saw C hise l

Underlayme nt Rubbe r mall et
Yo" spacers Drawbar
Tapping block Fini sh nails
Scrap foam Nail set As indestructible as laminate floors may seem, minor
Speed sq ua re Strap c la mps scratches caused by normal day-to-day wear and tear are
Manufacturer's glue Threshold unavoidable. Whether the damaged plank is close to a wall
Painter's tape and sc rews or in the middle of the floor, this project will show you how to
replace it.
From bottom to top, laminate planks

are engineered to resist moisture,
scratches, and dents. A melamine base
layer protects the inner core layer,
which is most often HDF (high-density
fiberboard). This is occasionally followed
by kraft paper saturated in resins for
added protection and durabi lity. The
print film is a photographic layer that
replicates the look of wood or ceramic.
The surface is a highly protective wear
layer. The tongue-and-groove planks fit
together tightly and may be (according
to manufacturer's instructions) glued
Print film togethe r for added stability.
Kraft paper
Tongue Core
,,,,,,re--- Melamine
backing
Groove

I How to Replace Laminate Planks
Draw a rectangle in the middle of the damaged board with a To protect the floor from chipping, place painter's tape
1'/2' border between the rectangle and factory edges. At each along the cutlines. Now, set the circular saw depth to the
rectangle corner and inside each corner of the plank, use a thickness of the replacement plank. (If you don't have a
hammer and nail set to make indentations. At each of these replacement plank, see page 20, Step 2 to determine the plank
indentations, drill 3/ 16 " holes into the plank. Only drill the depth thickness) To plunge cut the damaged plank, turn on the saw
of the plank. and slowly lower the blade into the cutline until the cut guide
rests flat on the floor. Push the saw from the center of the line
out to each end. Stop v," in from each corner. Use a hammer
to tap a pry bar or chisel into the cutlines. Lift and remove
the middle section. Place a sharp chisel between the two drill
holes in each corner and strike with a hammer to complete
each corner cut. Vacuum.
To remove the remaining outer edges of the damaged Place a scrap of cardboard in the opening to protect the
plank, place a scrap 2 x 4 wood block along the outside of underlayment foam while you remove all of the old glue from
one long cut and use it for leverage to push a pry bar under the factory edges with a chisel. Vacuum up the wood and
the flooring. Insert a second pry bar beneath the existing glue flakes.
floor (directly under the joint of the adjacent plank) and use a
pliers to grab the 1'/2' border strip in front of the pry bar. Press
downward until a gap appears at the joint. Remove the border
piece. Remove the opposite strip and then the two short end
pieces in the same manner.
(continued)
To remove the tongues on one long and one short end, Dry-fit the grooves on the replacement board into the
lay the replacement plank face down onto a protective scrap tongues of the surrounding boards and press into place. If
of plywood (or 2 x 4). Clamp a straight cutting guide to the the board fits snugly in between the surrounding boards, pry
replacement plank so the distance from the guide causes the the plank up with a manufacturer suction cup. If the plank
bit to align with the tongue and trim it off. Pressing the router does not sit flush with the rest of the floor, check to make
against the cutting guide, slowly move along the entire edge of sure you route red the edges off evenly. Sand any rough edges
the replacement plank to remove the tongue. Clean the edges that should have been completely removed and try to fit the
with sandpaper. plank again.
Set the replacement plank by applying laminate glue to the Clean up glue with a damp towel. Place a strip of wax
removed edges of the replacement plank and into the grooves paper over the new plank and evenly distribute some books on
of the existing planks Firmly press the plank into place. the wax paper. Allow the adhesive to dry for 12 to 24 hours.

Variation: Floating Floors ｾ＠
If your damaged plank is close to the wall and the laminate floor is glue less, follow these steps:
To remove shoe molding, wedge a chisel between To remove the first plank closest to the wall, use
the shoe molding and baseboards to create a gap a pry bar to lift it just enough to get your hands under it
and maintain that gap with wood shims. Continue this and then slowly lift up and away from the adjacent plank.
process every 6" along the wall. Locate the nails that are Continue to remove the planks that are between the shoe
holding the shoe to the baseboard and use a pry bar at molding and the damaged plank with your hands. Finally,
those locations to gently pull the shoe away from the remove the damaged plank.
baseboard (inset).
3 4
snap in a new replacement plank and then continue Lay the shoe molding back in place along the wall.
to replace the rest of the boards until you reach the wall Using a nail set and hammer, countersink finish nails into
in the same manner. the top of the shoe molding every 6 to 12" along the wall.
Fill the holes with wood putty.
I How to Replace a Parquet Tile
For the initial plunge cut, set the depth of a circular saw Use a hammer and a sharp, 1"-wide chisel to chip out the
to the thickness of the parquet tile. (If you don't know the cut pieces in the center of the damaged tile. When you're
thickness, see Here's How, this page.) Hold the saw so that only removing the pieces around the edge of the cutout, make
the top of the guide plate touches the surface of the wood; the sure the beveled side of the chisel is facing the damaged area
blade, when lowered, will cut into the damaged wood block. so that a clean flat edge is left along the adjacent tiles. If you
Turn on the saw. Slowly lower the blade into the cutting line need some elbow grease to remove the center pieces, use a
until the saw's cut guide rests flat on the floor. Make a series hammer to tap a pry bar under the damaged cutout and then
of four plunge cuts into the damaged tile- 1" inside each lean it over a scrap of 2 x 4 for leverage.
edge-to make a square cutout.
Here's How ｾ＠
If you don't have a replacement tile, and

therefore don't know how thick the tiles are, you can
determine the thickness by slowly drilling through
the damaged tile with a ,/, hole saw or ';'''-wide
spade drill bit. Very slowly drill through the damaged
tile. Drill only a bit at a time until you bore all the
way through the flooring and can see the top of the
subfloor, then you can measure the depth of the
Use a putty knife to scrape away the remaining adhesive on board with a measuring tape. The depth will range
the underlayment so that the new tile will sit flush with the from 7'1 6' to ,/, thick.
surrounding floor.

Remove lower lip of groove in replacement tile. If the Apply adhesive. Use a V8' notched trowel to spread a thin
replacement wood block has a tongue-and-groove structure, layer of floor adhesive onto the back of the replacement
remove the lower lip of the groove so that you can press it into tile and the floor. The ridges should be about V8' high on the
place. Lay the replacement block face down onto a protective replacement tile. The adhesive on the floor is only to make
scrap of wood and use a sharp chisel to split off the lower lip. sure the tiles are completely covered on all edges. You want
Lightly sand the edges. a secure bond, but you do not want adhesive to squeeze up
between the tiles.
Warning ｾ＠
Whenever cutting or drilling wood, be sure to wear

protective eyewear. Eyeglasses made of safety glass
will suffice as protective eyewear.
Install replacement block. Hook the tongue of the

replacement block into the groove of an adjacent block and
then use a soft mallet to gently tap the groove side of the new
block down into place. If adhesive happens to squeeze up onto
any of the block, clean it immediately with the cleaning solvent
recommended by the adhesive manufacturer. You're done l
I Repairing Vinyl
epa ir Ｌｾ･ｴｨｯ､ｳ＠ fo,- vin yl fl oorin g depe nd on the
R type of fl oor as we ll as the type of da mage. With
sh ee t vinyl, you ca n fu se th e surface or patch in
t hat th e back ing of o ld e r vinyl til es made of as ph a lt
may co nta in asbes tos fib ers. Co nsult a p rofess io nal for
the ir re mova l.
new mate ri al. V/ ith vin yl til e, it's best to re pl ace th e
da maged ti les .
S mall cuts a nd sc ratches ca n be fu sed
pe rm ane ntl y and nea rly invisibl y with liquid sea m Tools & Materials ｾ＠
seale r, a c lear co mpound th at's ava ilable w he reve r
vin yl fl oo ring is so ld. For tea rs or burns, th e da maged Carpenter's sq uare Masking ta pe
area ca n be patched. If necessary, re move vin yl from a Utili ty knife Sc rap of
hidd en a rea, suc h a n the inside of a closet or under an Putty knife matching fl oo ring
appliance, to use as patch materi al. Heat gun M ine ral spirits
Wh en vinyl fl ooring is badl y wo rn or th e damage is J-roll e r Floor cove rin g adh esive
wides prea d , th e only a nswe r is comple te re pl ace me nt. Notc hed trowe l \"'ax pape r
Although it's poss ibl e to add laye rs of fl oo ring in so me Ma rke r Liqui d sea m sea le r
situ ati o ns, eva lu ate t he opt ions ca refull y. Be awa re
34 • THE CO ,\ IPLETE PHOTO GU ID E TO HO,\ IE HEPAIH

I How to Patch Sheet vinyl
2
Measure the width and length of the damaged area. Place Lay the patch over the damaged area, matching pattern
the new flooring remnant on a surface you don't mind making lines. Secure the patch with duct tape. Using a carpenter's
some cuts on-like a scrap of plywood. Use a carpenter's square as a cutting guide, cut through the new vinyl (on top)
square for cutting guidance. Make sure your cutting size is a bit and the old vinyl (on bottom). Press firmly with the knife to cut
larger than the damaged area. both layers.
3 4
•• •I F
Use tape to mark one edge of the new patch with the Soften the underlying adhesive with an electric heat gun
correspond ing edge of the old flooring as placement marks. and remove the damaged section of floor. Work from edges in.
Remove the tape around the perimeter of the patch and lift up. When the tile is loosened, insert a putty knife and pry up the
damaged area.
(continued)
6
•
Scrape off the remaining adhesive with a putty knife or Apply adhesive to the patch, using a notched trowel (with
chisel. Work from the edges to the center. Dab mineral spirits 'Is" v-shaped notches) held at a 45° angle to the back of the
(or Goo Gone) or spritz warm water on the floor to dissolve new vinyl patch .
leftover goop, taking care not to use too much; you don't want
to loosen the surrounding flooring. Use a razor-edged scraper
(flooring scraper) to scrape to the bare wood underlayment.
7 8
••
Set one edge of the patch in place. Lower the patch onto Let the adhesive dry overnight. Use a soft cloth dipped
the underlayment. Press into place. Apply pressure with a in lacquer thinner to clean the area. Mix the seam sealer
Holler or rolling pin to create a solid bond . Start at the center according to the manufacturer's directions. Use an applicator
and work toward the edges, working out air bubbles. Wipe up bottle to apply a thin bead of sealer onto the cutlines.
adhesive that oozes out the sides with a clean, damp cloth
or sponge.

I How to Replace Resilient Tile
Use an electric heat gun to warm the Scrape away remaining adhesive with a putty knife or, for stubborn spots, a floor
damaged tile and soften the underlying scraper. Work from the edges to the center so that you don't accidentally scrape up
adhesive. Keep the heat source moving the adjacent tiles. Use mineral spirits to dissolve leftover goop. Take care not to allow
so you don't melt the tile. When an edge the mineral spirits to soak into the floor under adjacent tiles. Vacuum up dust, dirt,
of the tile begins to curl, insert a putty and adhesive. Wipe clean.
knife to pry up the loose edge until you
can remove the tile. Note: If you can
clearly see the seam between tiles, first
score around the tile with a utility knife.
This prevents other tiles from lifting.
When the floor is dry, use a notched trowel-with '!8' Set one edge of the tile in place. Lower the tile onto the
V-shaped notches-held at a 45° angle to apply a thin, even underlayment and then press it into place. Apply pressure
layer of vinyl tile adhesive onto the underlayment. Note: Only with a J-roller to create a solid bond, starting at the center and
follow this step if you have dry-back tiles. working toward the edge to work out air bubbles. If adhesive
oozes out the sides, wipe it up with a damp cloth or sponge.
Cover the tile with wax paper and some books, and let the
adhesive dry for 24 hours.
I Repairing Ceramic Tile Floors
lth ough ce ra mi c til e is on e of th e ha rd est fl oo r
A coverings, probl e ms ca n occ ur. T il es some times
beco me damaged a nd need to be re pl aced. U suall y,
thi s is s impl y a matte r of re moving and re pl ac in g Ha mm e r T hin- se t morta r

indi vidu a l til es . Howeve r, major c rac ks in grout join ts C old chi sel Repl ace me nt til e
indi cate th at fl oor move ment has ca used th e adh es ive Eye protection T il e space rs
layer be neath th e til e to de te riorate . In this case, th e Pu tty kni fe Grout
adh es ive laye r must be re pl aced in orde r to c reate a Sq uare- notc hed Buc ket
pe rm ane nt repa il". trowe l Gro ut pi gment
Any time yo u remove til e, check th e underlayme nt. Rubbe r ma ll et G rout sealer
If it's no longer smooth , solid, and level, repa ir or Leve l G rout sponge
replace it before replac ing the til e . Whe n re moving Needl e nose pli e rs Floor-leveling
grout or damaged til es, be careful not to damage Sc rewdri ve r co mpound
surroundin g tiles . Always wea r eye protec ti on whe n G rout fl oa t mix
wo rking with a ha mme r and c hi sel. Any tim e you are
doing a major tile in sta ll ation , make sure to save extra
til es. T hi s way, you will have mate ri als on h and wh e n
re pa irs becom e necessary.
I How to Replace Ceramic Tiles

1 2
With a carbide-tipped grout saw, If the tile is not already cracked, Insert a chisel into one of the cracks
apply firm but gentle pressu re across use a hammer to puncture the tile by and gently tap the ti le. Start at the
the grout until you expose the tapping a nail set or cente r punch into cente r and ch ip outward so you don't
unglazed edges of the tile. Do not it. Alternative ly, if the ti le is sign ificantly damage the adjacent tiles. Be aware
scratch the glazed ti le surface. If the cracked, use a ch isel to pry up the tile. that cement board looks a lot like
grout is stubborn, use a hammer and mortar when yo u're chi seling. Remove
screwd river to first tap the ti le (Step 2) and discard the broken pieces
38 • T HE CO I\ IPLETE PH OTO GU ID E TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

Use a putty kn ife to scrape away old thinset adhesive; use Use a %" notched trowel to apply thinset adhesive to the
a chisel for poured mortar installation. If the underlayment back of the replacement tile. Set the tile down into the space,
is covered with metal lath, you won't be able to get the area and use plastic spacers around the tile to make sure it is
smooth; just clean it out the best you can. Once the adhesive centered within the opening.
is scraped from the underlayment, smooth the rough areas
with sandpaper. If there are gouges in the underlaymen\, fill
them with epoxy-based thinset mortar (for cementboard) or
a floor-leveling compound (for plywood). Allow the area to
dry completely.
Set the tile in position and press down Remove the spacers with needlenose Use a putty knife to apply grout to the
until it is even with the adjacent tiles. pliers. Get the mortar or thinset joints. Fill in low spots by applying and
Twist it a bit to get it to sit down in the adhesive out of the grout joints with a smoothing extra grout with you r finge r.
mortar. Use a mallet or hammer and small screwdriver and a cloth . Also, wipe Use the round edge of a toothbrush
a block of wood covered with cloth away any adhesive from the surface of handle to create a concave grout line, if
or a carpet scrap (a "beater block") to the tiles, using a wet sponge. Let the desired . You must now grout the joint.
lightly tap on the tile, setting it into the area dry for 24 hours (or according to
adhesive. Use a level or other straight the manufacturer's recommendations).
surface to make sure the tile is level
with the surrounding tiles. if necessary,
continue to tap the tile until it's flush
with the rest of the surrounding tiles.
I Repairing Carpet
B urn s a nd stains a re the most common ca rpeting
proble ms. You can clip away th e burned fibe rs of
superficial burns usin g small sc isso rs. Dee per burn s
a nd in delible stains require patching by cuttin g away
a nd rep lac ing the da maged a rea .
Another common problem, addressed on th e
opposite page, is carpet sea ms or edges that ha ve
come loose. You can rent th e too ls necessa lY for fi xi ng
thi s prob le m.
Cook ie-c utte r too l Doubl e-face

Knee kicker carpet tape
4" wa llboard knife Seam adh es ive
Utility knife Heat-ac tivated
Seam iron sea m tape
Rep lace me nt Boards
ca rpe tin g We ights
I How to Repair Spot Damage

2 3
Remove extensive damage or stains using the cookie-cutter tool again, Press the patch into place. Make
with a "cookie-cutter" too l, available at cut a replacement patch from scrap sure the direction of the nap or pattern
carpeting stores. Press the cutter down carpeting. Insert double-face carpet matches the existing carpet. To seal
over the damaged area and twist it to tape under the cutout, positioning the the seam and prevent unraveling, apply
cut away the carpet. tape so it overlaps the patch seams. seam adhesive to the edges of the patch

I How to Restretch Loose Carpet
2
Adjust the knob on the head of the knee kicker so the Thrust your knee into the cushion of the knee kicker to
prongs grab the carpet backing without penetrating through force the carpet toward the wall. Tuck the carpet edge into the
the padding. Starting from a corner or near a point where the space between the wood strip and the baseboard using a 4"
carpet is firmly attached, press the knee kicker head into the wallboard knife. If the carpet is still loose, trim the edge with a
carpet, about 2" from the wall. utility knife and stretch it again
I How to Glue Loose Seams
Remove the old tape from under the carpet seam. Cut a Pull up both edges of the carpet and set the hot iron
strip of new seam tape and place it under the carpet so it's squarely onto the tape. Wait about 30 seconds for the glue to
centered along the seam with the adhesive facing up. Plug in melt. Move the iron about 12" farther along the seam. Quickly
the seam iron and let it heat up. press the edges of the carpet together into the melted glue
behind the iron. Separate the pile to make sure no fibers are
stuck in the glue and the seam is tight. Place weighted boards
over the seam to keep it flat while the glue sets. Remember,
you have only 30 seconds to repeat the process.
I How to Patch Major Carpet Damage
Use a utility knife to cut four strips from a carpet remnant, Use a marker to draw arrows on tape. Fan the carpet
each a little wider and longer than the cuts you plan to make with your hand to see which direction the fibers are woven,
around the damaged part of your carpet. Most wall-to-wall and then use the pieces of tape to mark that direction on both
carpet is installed under tension; so to relieve that tension, the carpet surrounding the damaged area and the remnant
set the knee kicker 6" to 1 ft. from the area to be cut out and you intend to use as a patch Place a carpet remnant on
nudge it forward (toward the patch area). If you create a hump plywood and cut out a carpet patch slightly larger than the
in the carpet, you've pushed too hard and need to back off. damaged section, using a utility knife. As you cut, use a Phillips
Now place one of the strips upside down in front of the knee screwdriver to push carpet tufts or loops away from the
kicker and tack it to the floor at 2" to 4" intervals. Repeat the cutting line. Trim loose pile, and then place the patch right side
same process on the other three sides. up over the damaged area.
Tool Tip ｾ＠
Knee kickers have teeth that grab the

carpet backing. These teeth should be
set to grab the backing without grabbing
the padding. There is an adjustable knob
to do this. You can tell if the knee kicker
is grabbing the padding by the increased
pressure needed to move it forward.
To release the tension just before a
damaged area of carpet you intend to
patch, place the feet on the floor and
use your knee to press it toward the
damaged area .

Tack one edge of the patch through the damaged carpet Cut four lengths of carpet seam tape, each about 1"
and into the floor, making sure the patch covers the entire longer than an edge of the cut out area, using a utility knife
damaged area. Use a utility knife to cut out the damaged or scissors. Cover half of each strip with a thin layer of seam
carpet, following the border of the new patch as a template. adhesive and then slip the coated edge of each strip, sticky
If you cut into the carpet padding, use duct tape to mend it. side up, along the underside edges of the original carpet. Apply
Remove the patch and the damaged carpet square. more adhesive to the exposed half of tape, and use enough
adhesive to fill in the tape weave.
What If ... ｾ＠
If you have cushion-backed, fully-bonded carpet, you

can follow the instructions above to make a large
patch, except:
1. You won't need a knee kicker.

2. You don't need to nail outline strips around the
patch area.
3. Use a putty knife to scrape away any dried
cement from the hole you make. Some glues
may require heat or chemical solvents to
effectively remove them.
4. Apply multi-purpose flooring adhesive to the
floor with a 3;" " trowel.
5. Instead of seam tape, just use a thin bead
line up your arrows and press the patch into place. Take of cushion-back seam adhesive along the
care not to press too much, because glue that squeezes up perimeter of the hole.
onto the newly laid carpet creates a mess. Use an awl to free
tufts or loops of pile crushed in the seam . Lightly brush the
pile of the patch to make it blend with the surrounding carpet.
Leave the patch undisturbed for 24 hours. Check the drying
time on the adhesive used and wait at least this long before
removing the carpet tacks.
I Sealing Interior Concrete Floors
C oncre te is a versati le building material. Most
people are accustomed to thinking of concrete
primaril y as a utilitarian substance, but it can also
mimic a variety of floori ng types and be a colorfu l and
beautiful addition to any morn.
Wheth er your concrete floor is a practical surface
for the garage or an artistic statement of personal
style in your dining morn, it should be sealed.
Concrete is a hard and durable building mate rial , but
it is also pomus. Consequently, concrete floors are
suscept ibl e to sta inin g. Many stains can be re moved
with the pmpe r cleaner, but sealing and painting
prevents oi l, grease, and other sta in s from penetrating
the surface in the first place; thus , cleanup is
co nsiderably easier.
Prepare the concrete for sea le r app li cation by ac id
etch ing. Etching opens the pores in concrete surfaces,
allowing sea lers to bond with it. All smooth or dense
concrete surfaces, such as garage floors , should be
etc hed before app lying stain. The surface shou ld
feel gritty, like 120-grit sandpaper, and all ow water
to penetrate it. If you're not sure whether your fl oor
needs to be etched or not, it's better to etch. If yo u
don 't etch whe n it is needed , you will have to remove
th e sea le r residue before tryin g aga in.
Garden hose 4 -in. -wide synthetic Long pants and Alkalin e-base
or pressure washer bristle paint brush long-sleeve shirt neutral izer
(fo r outdoors Paint tray Rub ber boots (a mmonia,
and garages on ly) Soft-woven m ller cover Rubber gloves gardener's lim e,
Stiff bristle bmom with y," nap Safety gogg les baking soda,
Ac id -tolerant bucket Long-handle Ch lorin e res pirator or Simple Green
Sprinkl ing can pa int m ller Ac id etch er cleaning soluti on)
or acid-to lerant \ l\Tet/dry shop vacuum Concrete sealer
pump spray

I Tips for Acid Etching Concrete Floors
A variety of acid etching products is available: Citric acid is a biodegradable acid that does not produce chlorine fumes. It
is the safest etcher and the easiest to use, but it may not be strong enough for some very smooth concretes. Sulfamic acid is less
aggressive than phosphoric acid or muriatic acid, and it is perhaps the best compromise between strength of solution and safety.
Phosphoric acid is a stronger and more noxious acid than the previous two, but it is considerably less dangerous than muriatic
acid. It is currently the most popular etching choice. Muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) is an extremely dangerous acid that quickly
reacts and creates very strong fumes. This is an etching solution of last resort. It should only be used by professionals or by the
most serious DIYers. Never add water to acid- only add acid to water.
Acids of any kind are dangerous. Use caution when working Even after degreasing a concrete floor, residual grease
with acid etches; it is critical that there be adequate ventilation or oils can create serious adhesion problems for coatings
and that you wear protective clothing, including: safety goggles, of sealant or paint. To check whether your floor has been
rubber gloves, rubber boots, long pants and a long-sleeve shirt. adequately cleaned, pour a glass of water on to the floor. If it
In addition, wear a chlorine respirator-the reaction of any base is ready for sealing, the water will soak into the surface quickly
and acid can release chlorine or hydrogen gas and evenly. If the water beads, clean the floor again.
I How to Acid Etch a Concrete Floor
2 •
Clean and prepare the surface by first sweeping up all Saturate the surface with clean water. The surface
debris. Next, remove all surface muck: mud, wax, and grease. needs to be wet before acid etching. Use this opportunity to
Finally, remove existing paints or coatings. check for any areas where water beads up. If water beads on
the surface, contam inants still need to be cleaned off with a
suitable cleaner or chemical stripper.
Test your acid-tolerant pump sprayer with water to Add the acid etching contents to the water in the
make sure it releases a wide, even mist. Once you have acid-tolerant pump sprayer (or sprinkling can). Follow
the spray nozzle set, check the manufacturer's instructions the directions (and mixing proportions) specified by the
for the etching solution and fill the pump sprayer with the manufacturer. Use caution.
recommended amount of water.
46 • THE CO I\ IPLET E PHOTO GU ID E TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

Apply the acid solution. Using the sprinkling can or Use a stiff bristle broom or scrubber to work the acid
acid-tolerant pump spray unit, evenly apply the diluted acid solution into the concrete. Let the acid sit for 5-10 minutes,
solution over the concrete floor. Do not allow acid solution to or as indicated by the manufacturer's directions. A mild
dry at any time during the etching and cleaning process. Etch foaming action indicates that the product is working. If no
small areas at a time, 10 x 10 ft. or smaller. If there is a slope, bubbling or fizzing occurs, stop the process and re-clean the
begin on the low side of the slope and work upward. surface thoroughly.
When the fizzing stops, the acid has finished reacting with Use a stiff bristle broom to distribute the neutralizing
the alkaline concrete surface. Neutralize any remaining acid by solution over the entire floor area. Sweep the water around
adding a gallon of water to a 5-gallon bucket and then stirring until the fizzing stops and then spray the surface with a hose
in an alkaline-base neutralizer (options include 1 cup ammonia, to rinse it.
4 cups gardener's lime, a full box of baking soda, or 4 oz. of
"Simple Green" cleaning solution).
(continued)
Use a wet-dry shop vacuum to clean up the rinse water. When the floor dries, check for residue by rubbing a dark
Although the acid is neutralized, it's a good idea to check your cloth over a small area of concrete. If any white residue
local regulations regarding proper disposal of the neutralized appears, continue the rinsing process. Check for residue again.
spent acid. An inadequate acid rinse is even worse than not acid etching
at all when it's time to add the sealant.
If you have any leftover acid you can make it safe for Let the concrete dry for at least 24 hours and sweep it
your disposal system by mixing more alkaline solution in the thoroughly. The concrete should now have the texture of
5-gallon bucket and carefully pouring the acid from the spray 120-grit sandpaper and be able to accept concrete sealant.
unit into the bucket until all of the fizzing stops. Mask any exposed sill plates or base trim before sealing.

I How to Seal a Concrete Floor
3
Etch, clean, and dry concrete. Use wide painter's tape to protect Use a long-handled paint roller with
Mix the sealer in a bucket with a stir walls and then, using a good quality a '/2' nap to apply an even coat to the
stick. Lay painter's tape down for a 4"-wide synthetic bristle paintbrush, rest of the surface. Do small sections
testing patch. Apply sealer to this area coat the perimeter with sealer. at a time (about 2 x 3 feet). Work in one
and allow to dry to ensure desired orientation. Avoid lap marks by always
appearance. Note: Because concrete maintaining a wet edge. Do not work
sealers tend to make the surface slick the area once the coating has partially
when wet, add an anti-skid additive to dried; this could cause it to lift from the
aid with traction, especially on stairs. surface. Allow surface to dry according
to the manufacturer's instructions,
usually 8 to 12 hours.
After the first coat has dried, apply the second coat at an Clean tools according to manufacturer's directions.
orientation 90' from the first coat
I Repairing Wallboard
P atc hing hol es and concealing popped nails are
co mmon wa llboard repairs. Small hol es can be
fill ed directly, but large r patches must be supported
with some kind of backing, suc h as plywood. To repair
hol es left by nails or sc rews, dimple the hole slightly
with the handle of a utility knife or wallboard knife
and fill it with spackle or joint compound.
Use joint tape anywhere the wa llboa rd's face
paper or joint tape has torn or peeled away. Always cut
away any loose wa llboard material, face paper, or joint
tape from the damaged area, trimming back to so lid
wallboard material.
All wa llboard repairs requ ire three coats of joint
Most wallboard problems can be remedied with basic
compound , just like in new in stall ations. Lightly sa nd wallboard materials and specialty materials: (A) wallboard
your repaij-s before painting, or addin g texture. screws; (B) paper joint tape; (e) self-adhesive fiberglass mesh
tape; (D) corner bead; (E) paintable latex or silicone cau lk;
(F) all-purpose joint compound; (G) lightweight spackling
compound; (H) wallboard repair patches; (I) scraps of
wallboard; (J) and wallboard repair clips.
Drill or screwgun Wallboard saw All-purpose Paper joint tape

Hammer Hasp joint compo und Self-ad hesive fiberglass
Utility knife Hacksaw Lightweight spackle mesh joint tape
Wallboard knives F in e metal file ISO-grit sandpaper Wallboard repair patch
Fram ing square I y." wa llboard screws \I\food sc ra ps Wallboard repair c lips
2"
To repair a popped nail, drive a wallboard screw 2" above or If wallboard is dented, without cracks or tears in the face
below the nail, so it pulls the panel tight to the framing. Scrape paper, just fill the hole with lightweight spackling or all-purpose
away loose paint or compound, then drive the popped nail joint compound, let it dry, and sand it smooth.
V16" below the surface. Apply three coats of joint compound to
cover the holes.

I How to Repair Cracks & Gashes
1 2
• •
•
Use a utility kn ife to cut away loose wallboard or face paper Push along the sides of the crack with your hand. If the
and widen the crack into a "V"; the notch will help hold the wallboard moves, secure the panel with 1%" wallboard screws
joint compound. driven into the nearest framing members. Cover the crack and
screws with self-adhesive mesh tape.
Cover the tape with compound, lightly forcing it into the mesh, then smooth it off, leaving just enough to conceal the tape. Add
two more coats, in successively broader and thinner coats to blend the patch into the surrounding area.
For cracks at corners or ceilings, cut through the existing Variation: For small cracks at corners, apply a thin bead of
seam and cut away any loose wallboard material or tape, then paintable latex or silicone caulk over the crack, then use your
apply a new length of tape or inside-corner bead and two finger to smooth the cau lk into the corner.
coats of joint compound.
I How to Patch Small Holes in Wallboard
2 3
Trim away any broken wallboard, Cover the tape with all-purpose joint Add two more coats of compound
face paper, or joint tape around the compound, lightly forcing it into the in successively broader and thinner
hole, using a utility knife. Cover the hole mesh, then smooth it off, leaving just coats to blend the patch into the
with crossed strips of self-adhesive enough to conceal the tape. surrounding area. Use a wallboard wet
mesh tape. sander to smooth the repair area.
I Other Options for patching Small Holes in Wallboard
Wallboard repair patches: Cover the Beveled wallboard patch : Bevel Wallboard paper-flange patch: Cut
damaged area with the self-adhesive the edges of the hole with a wallboard a wallboard patch a couple inches
patch; the thin metal plate provides saw, then cut a wallboard patch to fit. larger than the hole. Mark the hole on
support and the fiberglass mesh helps Trim the beveled patch until it fits tight the backside of the patch, then score
hold the joint compound. and flush with the panel surface. Apply and snap along the lines. Remove the
plenty of compound to the beveled waste material, keeping the face paper
edges, then push the patch into the "flange" intact. Apply compound around
hole. Finish with paper tape and three the hole, insert the patch, and embed
coats of compound the flange into the compound. Finish
with two additional coats.

I How to Patch Large Holes in Wallboard
2
Outline the damaged area, using Cut plywood or lumber backer strips Cut a drywall patch Ya" smaller than
a framing square. (Cutting four right a few inches longer than the height the cutout dimensions, and fasten
angles makes it easier to measure and of the cutout. Fasten the strips to the it to the backer strips with screws.
cut the patch.) Use a drywall saw to cut back side of the drywall, using 1%" Apply mesh joint tape over the seams.
along the outline. drywall screws. Finish the seams with three coats
of compound.
I How to Patch Large Holes with Repair Clips

1 2
•
Cut out the damaged area, using a wallboard saw. Center Cut a new wallboard patch to fit in the hole. Fasten the
one repair clip on each edge of the hole. using the provided patch to the clips, placing wallboard screws adjacent to the
wallboard screws, drive one screw through the wall and into previous screw locations and ,/, from the edge. Remove the
the clips; position the screws from the edge and centered tabs from the clips, then finish the joints with tape and three
between the clip's tabs. coats of compound
I How to Patch Over a Removed Door or Window
1 2 ＧｲＮＭｾＧＭＢｉ＠
Frame the opening with studs spaced 16" O.c. and partially using wallboard the same th ickness as the existing
beneath the existing ｷ｡ｬ｢ｯｲ､ｾｴｨ･＠ new joints should break panel, cut the patch piece about 'j,," shorter than the opening.
at the center of framing. Secure the existing wallboard to the Position the patch against the framing so there is a Va" joint
framing with screws driven every 12" around the perimeter. If around the perimeter, and fasten in place with wallboard
the wall is insulated, fill the stud cavity with insulation. screws every 12". Finish the butt joints with paper tape and
three coats of compound.
I How to Repair Metal Corner Bead

1 2 3
Secure the bead above and below Cut a new corner bead to fit the File the seams with a fine metal file
the damaged area with 1'j,," wal lboard opening exactly, then align the spine to ensure a smooth transition between
screws. To remove the damaged perfectly with the existing piece and pieces. If you can't easily smooth the
section, cut through the spine and secure with wal lboard screws driven seams, cut a new replacement piece
then the flanges, using a hacksaw 'j,," from the flange edge; alternate and start over. Hide the repair with three
held parallel to the floor. Remove the sides with each screw to keep the coats of wallboard compound.
damaged section, and scrape away any piece straight.
loose wallboard and compound.

I Repairing Plaster
P las te r wa ll s a re c rea ted by buil d in g up layers
of plaster to form a hard , durable wall surface.
Behind th e plaste r itself is a gridlike layer of wood ,
metal , or roc k lath th at holds th e pl as te r in place. Keys,
form ed whe n the base pl as te r is squ eezed through the
lath , h old th e dried plas te r to th e ce ilin g or wall s.
Before you begin a ny plaste r re pa ir, ma ke sure
the surrounding a rea is in good sha pe. If th e lath is
dete riorated or th e pl as te r in the da maged area is soft ,
call a profess ional.
Use a latex bonding liquid to ensure a good bond and
a tight, crack-free patch. Bonding liquid also eliminates
th e need to wet the plaster and lath to prevent premature
drying and shrinkage, which could ruin the repair.
Wa llboa rd kni ves Patc hin g pl as te r

Pa intbru sh Fiberglass mes h tape
Utility knife Latex bonding liquid
Spackle is used to conceal cracks, gashes, and small holes
Lightwe ight spac kle ISO-grit sandpa pe r in plaster Some new spackl ing compounds start out pink and
All -purpose Paint dry white so yo u can see when they're ready to be sanded
jo in t compound and painted. Use lightweight spackle for low-shrinkage and
one-application fi lls.
I How to Fill Dents & Small Holes in Plaster

1 2 3
scrape or sand away any loose Fill the hole with lightweight spackle. Sand the patch lightly with 150-grit
plaster or peeling paint to establish a App ly the spackle with the smal lest production sandpaper. Wipe the dust
solid base for the new plaster. knife that wi ll span the damaged area. away with a clean cloth, then prime and
Let the spackle dry, following the paint the area, feathe ring the pa int to
manufacturer's instructions. blend the edges.
I How to Patch Large Holes in Plaster
Sand or scrape any texture or loose Apply latex bonding liquid liberally Mix patching plaster as directed by
paint from the area around the hole around the edges of the hole and over the manufacturer, and use a wallboard
to create a smooth, firm edge. Use the base lath to ensure a crack-free knife or trowel to apply it to the hole.
a wal lboard knife to test the plaster bond between the old and new plaster. Fill shallow holes with a single coat
around the edges of the damaged area. of plaster.
Scrape away all loose or soft plaster.
For deeper holes, apply a shallow first Use texture paint or wallboard Variation: Holes in plaster can also
coat, then scratch a crosshatch pattern compound to recreate any surface be patched with wallboard. Score the
in the wet plaster. Let it dry, then apply texture. Practice on heavy cardboard damaged surface with a utility knife and
second coat of plaster. Let the plaster until you can duplicate the wall's chisel out the plaster back to the center
dry, and sand it lightly. surface. Prime and paint the area to of the closest framing members. Cut
finish the repair. a wallboard patch to size, then secure
in place with wallboard screws driven
every 4" into the framing. Finish joints
as you would standard wallboard joints.

I How to Patch Holes Cut in Plaster
,
2
Cut a piece of wire mesh larger than the hole, using Apply a coat of patching plaster, forcing it into the mesh
aviation snips. Tie a length of twine at the center of the mesh and covering the edges of the hole. Scratch a cross-hatch
and insert the mesh into the wall cavity. Twist the wire around pattern in the wet plaster, then allow it to dry. Remove the
a dowel that is longer than the width of the hole, until the dowel and trim the wire holding the mesh. Apply a second coat,
mesh pulls tight against the opening. Apply latex bonding liquid filling the hole completely. Add texture. Let dry, then scrape
to the mesh and the edges of the hole. away any excess plaster. sand, prime, and paint the area.
I How to Repair Cracks in Plaster

1- 3
Scrape away any texture or loose plaster around the

crack. using a utility knife, cut back the edges of the crack to
create a keyway (inset). The keyway will help lock the patch in
place and prevent recracking.
Work joint compound into the keyway using a 6" knife, Add two more coat of compound, in successively broader
then embed mesh tape into the compound, lightly forcing the and thinner coats, to blend the patch into the surrounding
compound through the mesh . Smooth the compound, leaving area. Lightly sand, then retexture the repair area to match the
just enough to conceal the tape. wall . Prime and paint it to fin ish the repair
I Replacing Sheet Paneling
espite its durability, prefinished sheet ｰ｡ｾ･ｬｩｮｧ＠
D occasionally requires repairs. Many scuff marks
can be removed with a light coat of paste wax, and most
Fin a ll y, turn off the e lectric ity to the a rea and
remove all receptacle covers and switch plates on the
sheets of paneling that need to be replaced.
small scratches can be disguised with a touchup stick.
Paneling manufacturers do not recommend trying
to spot-sand or refinish prefinished paneling.
The most common forms of significant damage to
paneling are water damage and punctures. If paneling
has suffered major damage, the only way to repair it is
to replace the affected sheets.
If the paneling is more than a few years old, it may
be difficult to locate matching pieces. If you can't find
any at lumber yards or building centers, try salvage
yards. Buy the panels in advance so that you can
condition them to the room before installing them. To
condition the paneling, place it in the room , standing
on its lon g edge. Place spacers between the sheets so
air can circulate around each one. Let the paneling
stand for 24 hours if it wil l be installed above grade,
and 48 hours if it wi ll be insta ll ed below grade.
Before you go any further, find out what's behind
the paneling. Building Codes often require that
paneling be backed with wal lboard. This is a good idea,
even if Code doesn't require it. T he support provided
by the wallboard keeps the paneling from warp ing and Most scuffs in paneling can be polished out using paste
provides an extra layer of sound protection. However, wax. To use, make sure the panel surface is clean and dust
if there is wa llboard behind the paneling, it may need free, then apply a thin even coat of paste wax using a clean
repairs as well , particularly if yo u're dealing with water soft cloth . Work in small areas using a circular motion. Allow
to dry until a paste becomes hazy (5 to 10 minutes), then buff
damage. And removing damaged paneling may be
with a new cloth. Apply a second coat if necessary.
more difficult if it's glu ed to wallboard or a masonry
wall. In any case, it's best to have a clear picture of the
situat ion before you start cutting into a wal l.
Wallboard knife Replacement panels

Putty knife Spray paint
Flat pry bar Panel adhes ive
Fram ing square Color-matc hed
Linoleum knife paneling nails
Hammer Shims
Chisel Fin ish nails Touch-up and fill sticks can help hide most scratches in
prefinished paneling. Wax touch-up sticks are like crayons-
Caulk gun Putty sticks
simply trace over the scratch with the stick. To use a fill stick,
Rubber mallet Wood filler apply a small amount of the material into the surface and
Na il set smooth it over the scratch using a flexible putty knife. Wipe
away excess fill with a clean, soft cloth.

I How to Replace a Strip of Paneling
Carefully remove the baseboard and top moldings. Use Draw a line on the panel from top to bottom, 3-in. to 4-in.
a wallboard or putty knife to create a gap, then insert a pry bar from each edge of the panel. Hold a framing square along
and pull the trim away from the wall. Remove all the nails. the line and cut with a linoleum knife. Using a fair amount of
pressure, you should cut through the panel within two passes.
If you have trouble, use a hammer and chisel to break the
panel along the scored lines.
Insert a pry bar under the panel at the bottom, and pull On the back of the panel, apply zigzag beads of panel
up and away from the wall, removing nails as you go. Once adhesive from top to bottom every 16", about 2" in from each
the center portion of the panel is removed, scrape away any edge, and around cutouts. Tack the panel into position at the
old adhesive, using a putty knife. Repair the vapor barrier if top, using color-matched paneling nails. When the adhesive
damaged; below-grade applications may require a layer of 4mil has set up, press the panel to the wall and tap along stud
polyethylene between outside walls and paneling. Measure lines with a rubber mallet. creating a tight bond between the
and cut the new panel, including any necessary cutouts, and adhesive and wall. Drive finish nails at the base of the panel to
test-fit the panel. hold it while the adhesive dries. Replace all trim pieces and fill
nail holes with wood filler.
I Maintaining Wall Tile
s we've sa id throughout this book, ce ram ic tile accessories to wa ll studs or blocking. [f no studs or
A is durable and nearly maintenance-free, but
like every oth er material in your house, it can fail or
blocking are avai lable, use special fasteners , suc h as
toggle bolts or molly bolts, to anchor the accessories
develop problems. The most com mon problem with directly to the surface of the underlying wall. To hold
ceram ic tile in vo lves damaged grout. Fai led grout is screws firmly in place in ceramic tile wa ll s, drill pilot
un attractive, but the real danger is that it offers a holes and insert plastic sleeves, which expand when
point of ently for water. Given a chance to work its screws are driven into them.
way beneath grout, water can destroy a tile base and
eventua ll y wreck an ent ire in sta ll at ion. It's important
to regro ut ceramic tile as soon as yo u see signs
of damage. Tools & Materials ｾ＠
Another potential problem for tile installations is
damaged cau lk. In tub and shower stall s and around Awl Tile adhes ive
sinks and backsplashes, the joints between the tile and Uti lity knife Masking tape
the fixtures are sealed with cau lk. The cau lk eventua ll y Trowel Grout
deteriorates , leaving an e ntry point for wate r. Un less Grout fl oat C loth or rag
the joints are recaulked , seeping water will destroy the Hammer R ubbi ng alcohol
tile base and the wall. Chise l Mi ld ew remover
In bathrooms, towel rods, soap d ishes, and other Small pry bar Sili cone or latex caulk
accessories can work loose from wa ll s, especia ll y if Eye protection Sealer
they weren't installed correctly or aren't supported Replacement tile Sponge
properly. For maximum holding power, anch or new
I How to Regrout Wall Tile
Use an awl or utility knife to scrape Clean and rinse the grout joints, then Wipe away excess grout with a
out the old grout completely, leaving a spread grout over the entire tile surface, damp sponge. When the grout is dry,
clean bed for the new grout. using a rubber grout float or sponge. wipe away the residue and polish the
Work the grout well into the joints and tiles with a dry cloth.
let it set slightly.
60 • THE CO I\IPLETE PHOTO GU ID E TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

I How to Recaulk a Joint
2
Start with a completely dry surface. scrape out the old Cut the tip off caulk cartridges at a 45° angle and then
cau lk and clean the joint with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol. make a flat cut at the top with a utility knife. This will allow you
If this is a bathtub or sink, fill it with water to weight it down. to deliver a smooth bead that is not too thin or too heavy.
Clean the joint with a product that kills mildew spores; let it Wet your fingertip with cold water, then use your finger to
dry. Fill the joint with silicone or latex cau lk. smooth the caulk into a cove shape. After the caulk hardens,
use a utility knife to trim away any excess.
I How to Replace Built-in Wall Accessories
2
Carefully remove the damaged accessory. Scrape away Use masking tape to hold the accessory in place while the
any remaining adhesive or grout. Apply dry-set tile adhesive adhesive dries. Let the mortar dry completely (12 to 24 hours),
to the back side of the new accessory, then press it firmly then grout and seal the area.
in place.
I How to Replace Surface-mounted Accessories
Lift the accessory up and off the mounting plate. If the Put a dab of silicone caulk over the pilot holes and the tips of
mounting plate screws are driven into studs or blocking, simply the screws before inserting them. Let the caulk dry, then install
hang the new accessory. If not, add hardware such as molly the new fixture on the mounting plate.
bolts, toggle bolts, or plastic anchor sleeves.

I How to Remove & Replace Broken Wall Tiles
1
Carefully scrape away the grout from the surrounding If the tile to be replaced is a cut tile, cut a new one to match.
joints, using a utility knife or an awl. Break the damaged tile Test-fit the new tile and make sure it sits flush with the field.
into small pieces, using a hammer and chisel. Remove the Spread adhesive on the back of the replacement tile and place
broken pieces, then scrape away debris or old adhesive from it in the hole, twisting it slightly. Use masking tape to hold the
the open area. tile in place for 24 hours so the adhesive can dry.
Remove the tape, then apply premixed grout using a Let the grout dry for an hour, then polish the tile with a
sponge or grout float. Let the grout set slightly, then tool it with clean, dry cloth.
a rounded object such as a toothbrush handle. Wipe away
excess grout with a damp cloth.
I Repairing Wallcovering
L oosened sea ms and bubbles are common wa ll covering
proble ms, but both are easy to re medy using a little
adhes ive and a sponge. For pa pers that are compatible
a sectio n o f wa ll cove rin g fro m a n in co nspi c uo us
spot , s uch as in s id e a c loset o r be hind a doo r.
Yo u ca n ca moufl age th e spot b y pa intin g th e h ole
with water, use a c lea n, da mp sponge. For othe r types of with a co lor th at bl e nd s into th e bac kgroun d of
pape rs (grasscl oth or flocked wa ll coverings, for exa mp le), t he wa ll cove rin g.
cl ea n fingers are probably the best choice.
Sc ratc hes, tea rs or obvious stains ca n be patch ed
so successfull y that the patc h is di ffi c ul t to s pot.
\l\1he neve r yo u ha ng wa llcove rings, save re mna nts Tools & Materials ｾ＠
for future repa irs. It's also a good idea to reco rd the
name of the manufac turer as well as th e style and run Edge ro ll er Adh es ive
numbe rs of th e wallc ove rings . W rite thi s informati on Syrin ge-type Re mova bl e tape
on a piece of maskin g tape and put it on the back of a adh es ive applica tor Wallc ove ring
switch pl ate in th e room. Sponge re mn a nts
If you need to patc h a n a rea of wa llcove rin g U tili ty knife
bu t do n't have re mn a nts ava il a bl e , you ca n re move
I How to Fix a Bubble
Cut a slit through the bubble, using Insert the tip of a glue applicator Press the wallcovering gently to
a sharp razor knife. If there is a pattern through the slit and apply adhesive rebond it Use a clean, damp sponge
in the wallcovering, cut along a line in sparingly to the wall under to press the flap down and wipe away
the pattern to hide the slit the wallcovering. excess glue.
64 • T HE CO I\ IPLETE PHOTO GU ID E TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

I How to Patch wallcovering
2
Fasten a scrap of matching wallcovering over the damaged Holding a razor knife blade at a 90° angle to the wall, cut
portion with drafting tape, so that the patterns match. through both layers of wallcovering. If the wallcovering has
strong pattern lines, cut along the lines to hide the seams. With
less definite patterns, cut irregular lines.
Remove the scrap and patch, then peel away the darn aged Variation: Lift the edge of the wallcovering seam and insert
wallcovering. Apply adhesive to the back of the patch and the tip of a glue applicator under it. Squirt adhesive onto the
position it in the hole so that the pattern matches. Rinse the wall and gently press the seam flat. Let the repair stand for
patch area with a damp sponge. y, hour, then smooth the seam lightly with a seam roller. Wipe
the seam lightly with a damp sponge.
I Repairing Ceilings
M ost cei ling repairs are relatively simp le: the
techniques used to repair wallboard walls apply
to ce ilings as well , whi le sagging panels can be
refastened or replaced easi ly; the tongue-and-groove
edges of acoustica l tiles make it easy to remove and
replace a single tile; and textures such as acoustical
"popcorn" can be matched with a littl e practice on a
scrap of cardboard or simply removed a ltogether.
However, plaster, by contrast, is difficult to
work with , and replastering is not an option for most
homeowners. While minor repairs are manageable,
widesp read failure of the bond between the plaster Aerosol touch-up products are available for small repairs
to ceilings with popcorn and orange peel textures. Use a
coat ing and the lath foundation can be dangerous. If
wallboard knife to scrap away the existing texture at the
you fi nd large spongy areas or extensive sags in your damaged area and slightly around it. Make any necessary
plaster cei lin g, consult a professional. repairs, then spray on the aerosol texture carefully to blend the
new texture with the existing ceiling.
I How to Remove Popcorn Ceiling Texture

2 3
To protect floors and ease cleanup Using a pressure sprayer, dampen Scrape texture from the ceiling
later, line floors with 6-mil plastic, then the ceiling with a mixture of a teaspoon using a 6-in. wallboard knife. Be careful
cover with corrugated cardboard to of liquid detergent per gallon of water. not to cut into the wallboard surface.
provide a non-slip surface. Caution: Allow 20 minutes for the mixture to After all texture is removed, sand rough
Popcorn ceilings in houses built prior soak in, rewetting as necessary. spots, then carefully roll up and dispose
to 1980 may contain asbestos. Contact of the plastic and debris. Patch any
your local building department for damaged areas with joint compound,
regulations governing asbestos removal. then prime and paint.

I How to Replace Acoustical Ceiling Tile
2
Cut out the center section of Trim the upper lip of the grooved At the ceiling, apply construction
the damaged tile with a utility knife. edges of the new tile, using a adhesive to the furring strips. Install the
Slide the edges away from the straightedge. If necessary, also remove new tile, tongue first, and press it into
surrounding tiles. one of the tongues. the adhesive. Tip: To hold large tiles
in place while the glue dries, lay a flat
board across the tile, then prop a 2 x 4
post between the board and the floor
I How to Raise a Sagging Wallboard Ceiling

,
1 2 3
Position a T-brace under the lowest Remove loose tape and compound When the area is securely fastened,
point of the sagging area with the at joints between loose panels. Starting remove the T-brace. Scrape off any
bottom end on a piece of plywood or at one end, drive wallboard screws with loose chips of paint or wallboard
hardboard on the floor. Nudge it forward broad, thin washers every 4" through around joints and screws, then fill with
until the sagging panels are tight to the center of the joint and into the joists compound. Cover large cracks or gaps
the joists. If fasteners pop through the In the field of panel, drive screws 2" with fiberglass tape before applying
surface, drive them back in. from existing fasteners. the compound.
I Repairing Water Damaged Walls & Ceilings
sure sign of a wate r problem is di sco lorat ion a nd If dalllaged wa llboard reg uires exte nsive re pair,
A bubbling on the ceiling surface. Water from a
leaky roof or pipe above will guickly find a low spot or
resurfacing walls and ceiling w ith a laye r of new
wa llboardlllay be the best option. Resurfacing is
a joint between wallboard pan els , soaking through to a esse ntially the same in stallation as hanging multiple
vis ibl e surface in a matter of minutes . Water in joints layers of wa llboard, and res ults in a smooth, nat
is especially damaging because it ruin s th e edges of surface . However, the added wall thickness can affect
two panels at once. If you have a water problem , be the appearance of window and door trim , which
sure to fix the leak a nd allow the damaged wallboard Illay need to be exte nded . Use %" wallboard for
to dry thoroughly before making any repa irs. resu rfacing- w hil e Vi ' wa llboard is thinner, it's fragile
Whenever wa ter or moisture infiltrates a hou se, and can be diffi c ult to wo rk w ith.
th e re is always a concern rega rding mold. Mold
grows whe re wate r a nd nutri e nts are present- damp
wallboard paper ca n provide such an e nvironm e nt. You
can use a damp rag and baking soda or a small alllount Tools & Materials ｾ＠
of detergent to c lea n up small areas of mold (less than
one sguare ya rd ), though yo u should wea r goggles, Utility saw Wallboard (fo r patching
rubbe r gloves, a nd a dust Illask to preve nt co ntac t with Utility knife or res urfac ing)
Illold spores. If Illold occupies Illore area than this, Drill or screwgun Construction adhesive
you may have a more serious problem. Contact a mold Wallboard knives Stain-blocking primer!
a bate lll e nt specialist for assess llle nt a nd re lllediation. ISO-grit sandpaper sealer
To he lp preve nt mold growth , use exhau st fans and Paint roller and tray Paper tape
dehulllidifiers to rid your hOllle of excess Illoi sture and vVallboard sc rews JOint cOIllPound
repa ir plumbing leaks as soo n as they are found .
I How to Repair water Damaged Wallboard

1 2
_J
After the source for the water leak has been fixed, cut Remove loose tape and compound using a utility knife.
4-in. holes at each end of joist and stud bays to help ventilation. Cut back areas of soft wallboard to solid material. To prevent
Where possible, remove wet or damp insulation to dry out Use sagging, prop waterlogged ceiling panels against joists
fans and dehumidifiers to help speed up the drying process with T-braces.

3 Tip ｾ＠
- -
If wallboard contains small areas (less than one

square yard) of mold on the panel surface, clean
with a damp rag and baking soda or detergent. Allow
to dry, then continue the repair. Wear protective
eyewear, rubber gloves, and a disposable dust
Once wallboard is dry, refasten ceiling panels to framing or mask when cleaning mold. Caution: Larger areas
remove panels that are excessively bowed . Reinforce damaged containi ng mold must be evaluated and treated by a
wall panels with wallboard screws driven 2-in. from the mold abatement specialist.
existing fasteners.
4 5
Patch all vent holes and damaged After the primer/sealer has dried, Variation: Where damage is severe,
areas with wallboard and replace finish all joints and repairs with paper resurface with a new layer of W'
insulation. Apply a quality stain-blocking tape and three coats of compound. If or 'Is" wallboard. Hang new panels
primer/sealer to the affected area . water stains bleed through, reseal prior perpendicular to existing wallboard,
Use an oil-based sealer; latex-based to final priming and painting. and use panel adhesive to strengthen
sealers may allow water stains to bleed the bond.
through .
I Removing Wall & Ceiling Surfaces
I f a wa lloI' ce ilin g s urface is da maged or dete ri orated
beyo nd repa ir or if yo ur re modelin g proj ec t requires
fra min g alte rati ons or additi onal utility lin es, yo u may
need to re move th e wall a nd ceilin g surfaces. Utili ty knife Rec ip rocating saw
Re movin g a ny wa ll surface is a messy jo b, but PlY bar with bim eta l blade
it's not a diffi c ult one . But before yo u tea r into a wall C irc ul a r saw w ith H eavy tarp
with a ha mm er or powe r saw, yo u need to kn ow what de moli tion bl ade H a mm e r
li es i nside. Sta rt by c hecking fo r hi dde n mec ha ni ca ls Straightedge Protective eyewea r
in th e p roject area. \,virin g t hat's in the way ca n be Ma ul D ust mask
moved fa irly eas ily, as ca n wa ter suppl y pipes a nd Masonry chi sel
dra in ve nts . If it's gas piping, dra in pipe, or du ctin g,
h oweve r, yo u'll p robabl y h ave to ca ll a profess io nal
before yo u ca n move to the next step.
It's also a good idea to loca te all of th e fra min g
me mbe rs in t he project a rea. Ma rkin g all of the studs,
p lates, a nd bl ocking will he lp guide yo ur c uts a nd
preve nt unpl easa nt surpri ses.
\,vh en you're rea dy to begin de molition, prepare
the work area to help co ntain du st and minimi ze
da mage to floo rin g and othe r surfaces- tea ring out
wallboa rd a nd pl aster crea tes a velY fin e du st that
eas il y find s its way into ne ighboring rooms . Cove r Locate framing members using a stud finder or by knocking
doorways (eve n c losed ones) a nd ope nings w ith plastic on the wall and feeling for solid points. Verify the findings by
sheet ing. Tape p lastic ove r H VAC reg isters to preve nt driving finish nails through the wall surface. After finding the
center of one stud, measure over 16" to locate neighboring studs.
du st from c irc ul atin g th ro ugh th e syste m . Protec t
fl oors with cardboard or hardboa rd and plas tic or
drop cloth s. Also, ca refull y re move a ny trim fro m the Cutaway view
project area, c uttin g pain ted jo in ts with a ut ili ty kni fe
to red uce the da mage to the fi ni sh . Second
As a n added preca uti on , turn off the power to all story
circuits in th e work area, a nd shut off the main water
suppl y if yo u'll be maki ng c uts nea r water pipes.
Lead Paint ｾ＠
Before removing any surface in a home built before
1980, test for lead, a hazardous substance. (Lead
paint additives were banned in 1978, but supplies
on hand we re sold and used beyond that time.) You
can find inexpensive test kits at hardware stores and
home centers. If tests indicate lead, get expert advice.
Most paint stores and the paint department in larger Check for hidden plumbing lines, ductwork, wiring,
and gas pipes before cutting into a wall. To locate the lines,
home centers carry free brochures on what's known
examine the areas directly below and above the project wall.
as "lead abatement procedures." You can also find In most cases, pipes, utility lines, and ductwork run through
information at wwwepa.gov. the wall vertically between floors. Original blueprints for your
house should show the location of many of the utility lines.

I How to Remove wallcovering
Find a loose edge and try to strip off Pierce the wallcovering surface Peel away loosened wallcovering
the wallcovering. Vinyls often peel away with a wallpaper scorer (inset) to with a 6-in. wallboard knife. Be careful
easily. If the wallcovering does not strip allow remover solution to enter and not to damage the plaster or wallboard.
by hand, cover the floor with layers of soften the adhesive. Use a pressure Remove all backing paper. Rinse
newspaper. Add wallcovering remover sprayer, paint roller, or sponge to adhesive residue from the wa ll with
fluid to a bucket of water, as directed by apply the remover solution. Let it soak remover solution. Rinse with clear water
the manufacturer. into the covering, according to the and let the walls dry completely.
manufacturer's directions.
I How to Remove Ceramic Wall Tile
Be sure the floor is covered with a Begin cutting out small sections Cut the entire wall surface into small
heavy tarp, and the electricity and water of the wall by inserting a reciprocating sections, removing each section as it is
are shut off. Knock a small starter hole saw with a bimetal blade into the hole, cut Be careful not to cut through studs.
into the bottom of the wall, using a maul and cutting along grout lines. Be careful
and masonry chisel. when sawing near pipes and wiring.
I How to Remove Wallboard
1 2
Remove baseboard and other trim, and prepare the work Insert the end of a pry bar into the cut, near a corner of
area. Set a circular saw to the thickness of the wallboard, then the opening. Pull the pry bar until the wallboard breaks, then
cut from floor to ceiling. Use a utility knife to finish the cuts at tear away the broken pieces. Take care to avoid damaging the
the top and bottom and to cut through the taped horizontal wallboard outside the planned rough opening.
seam where the wall meets the ceiling surface.
3 4
Strike the wallboard with the side of a hammer, then Remove nails, screws, and any remaining wallboard
pull it away from the wall with the pry bar or your hands. from the framing members, using a pry bar or drill (or
screwgun). Check the vapor barrier and insulation for damage
and replace if necessary.

I How to Remove Plaster
2
Remove baseboards and other trim and prepare the Break the plaster along the edges by holding a scrap piece
work area. Score the cutting line several times with a utility of 2 x 4 on edge just inside the scored lines, and rapping it with
knife, using a straightedge as a guide. The line should be at a hammer. Use a pry bar to remove the remaining plaster.
least 'Is" deep.
Cut through the lath along the edges of the plaster, Variation: If the wall has metal lath laid over the wood lath,
using a reciprocating saw or jigsaw. Remove the lath from the use aviation snips to clip the edges of the metal lath. Press the
studs using a pry bar. pry away any remaining nails. Check jagged edges of the lath flat against the stud. The cut edges of
the vapor barrier and insulation for damage and replace metal lath are very sharp; be sure to wear heavy work gloves.
if necessary.
I Final Inspection & Fixing Problems
fter the final coat of joint compound has dried but
A before you begin sanding, inspect the entire finish
job for flaws. If you discover scrapes, pitting, or other
imperfections, add another coat of joint compound.
Repair any damaged or overlooked at-eas such as
cracked seams and over-cut holes for e lectrical boxes
prior to sanding.
During your in spection, make sure to check
that a ll seams are acceptably feathered out. To
check seams, hold a level or 12-in. taping knife
perpendicularly across the seam; fill concave areas
with extra layers of compound and correct any convex
seams that crown more than ';]," .
6" and 12" Sel f-adhes ive

taping knives fiberglass
Sanding block or mesh tape
pole sander 220-grit sanding
All-purpose screen or ISO-grit
joint compound sandpaper
I How to Fix Common Taping Problems
Pitting occurs when compound is overmixed or applied Mis-cut holes for electrical boxes can be flat-taped. Cover
with too little pressure to force out trapped air bubbles. Pitting the gap with self-adhesive mesh tape and cover with three
can be corrected easily with a thin coat of compound. If coats of all-purpose compound. Pre-cut repair patches are
trapped air bubbles are present, sand lightly before covering also available.
with compound

Concave seams can be filled with an extra layer or two of all- For seams crowned more than ';\6", carefully sand along
purpose compound. Let dry and sand lightly between coats. the center, but do not expose the tape. Check the seam with a
level. If it's still crowned, add a layer of compound with a 12"
knife, removing all of it along the seam's center and feathering
it out toward the outside edges. After it dries, apply a final coat,
if necessary.
Bubbled or loose tape occurs when the bed layer is too Cracked seams are often the result of compound that
thin, which causes a faulty bond between the tape and has dried too quickly or shrunk. Retape the seam if the
compound. Cut out small, soft areas with a utility knife and existing tape and compound is intact; otherwise, cut out
retape. Large runs of loose tape will have to be fully removed any loose material. In either case, make sure to fill the crack
before retaping. with compound.
I Ladders & Scaffolds
T wo quality stepladders and an extension plank are
all you need to paint most interior surfaces. For
painting high areas, build a simple scaffold by running
the plank through the steps of two step ladders. It
can be easy to lose your balance or step off the plank,
so choose tall ladders for safety; the upper part of
the ladders can help you balance and wi ll keep you
from steppi ng off the ends of the plank. Buy a strong,
straight 2" x l 0" board no more than 12 feet long, or
ren t a plank from a material dealer or rental outlet.
A manufacturer's sticker provides weight ratings and

instructions for the correct use of the ladder. Read it carefully
when shopping for a ladder. Choose a ladder that will easily
accommodate your weight plus the additional weight of any
tools or materials you plan to carry up the ladder.

Rent extension planks from a paint dealer or from a Keep steps tight by periodically checking them and
rental center. tightening the braces when they need it.
Keep the ladder in front of you when working. Lean your An adjustable ladder adapts to many different work needs.
body against the ladder for balance. It can be used as a straight ladder, a stepladder, or a base for
scaffold planks
I Paint Safety
lways read and follow the la be l information on
A paint and solve nt containers. Chemicals th at pose
a fire hazard are listed (in order of flammability) as:
combustible, flamm ab le, or extre mely flamm abl e . Use
caution whe n us ing these products a nd re mem be r that
th e fum es are also fl a mm able .
The wa rnin g "use with adeguate ventilation"
mean s that there should be no more vapo r buildup
than there wou ld be if you were us ing the material
outside. Open doors and windows, use exhaust fa ns,
a nd wea r a n approved resp irator if yo u can't provide
adegu ate ve ntilation.
Save a small a mount of pa int for tou chups and
repairs, and then sa fely di spose of th e re mainder.
Di spose of a lkyd (o il -based ) paint according to loca l
regu latio ns rega rding haza rdou s mate rial s; if possible,
recyc le latex pa int at your loca l haza rdou s was te
di sposal fa c ility or allow it to dry out co mpl etely and
set it out with yo ur regulat" trash.
Paint che mica ls do not sto l"e we ll. Buy only as Read label information. Chemicals that are poisonous or
mu c h as is needed for th e proj ec t a nd keep th e m away flammable are labeled with warnings and instructions for
from children and pets. safe handling.
KEEP FIRE
Wear safety goggles when using chemical stripper or Do not use chemicals that are listed as combustible or
cleaning products. Use goggles when painting overhead. flammable, such as paint strippers, near an open flame. Store
paint chemicals out of the reach of children and away from
appliances with pilot lights, such as a furnace or gas oven.

open windows and doors and use a fan for ventilation Wear a respirator to filter vapors if you cannot ventilate a
when painting indoors. If a product label has the warning work area adequately. If you can smell vapors, the ventilation is
"harmful or fatal if swallowed," assume that the vapors are not adequate.
dangerous to breathe.
Pour paint thinner into a clear jar after use. When the Dispose of leftover latex primers and paint safely. Let
solid material settles out, pour off the clear thinner and save it the container stand uncovered until the paint dries completely.
to reuse later. Dispose of the sediment as hazardous waste. In most communities, dried latex paint can be put into the
regular trash . (Alkyd primers and paint must be disposed of as
hazardous waste.)
I Preparation Tools & Materials
I t's as simple as it is unavoidable: Good preparation
produces a professional-looking job. In the old days,
preparation could be difficult and time consuming,
take a stro ll down the ais les at a loca l home center or
hardware store. Cons ider the project ahead of you and
evaluate which products will make the job simpler and
but with the help of the new tools and materials on more enjoyable.
the market today, it's easier than ever.
New cleaners and removal agents help prepare
surfaces for paint ancl wallcovering; new patching
proclucts help you create virtually invisible wall
repairs; inge nious new masking and draping materials
take the tedium out of keeping the paint where it
belongs; primers and sea lers provide good coverage
and help paint bond properly. While you're in the
planning stages of a painting or decorating project,
Detail
sanding
pads
Smooth. even surfaces are easy to achieve with tools Tools for preparation include some ordinary home
such as these: sanding sponges (A), sandpaper (B). sanding workshop tools and some specialty items. All are available at
block (C). a drywall-corner sanding sponge (D), microfiber tack home improvement centers. as well as at better decorating
cloth (E). and synthetic steel wool (F) supply stores.

--
-
.-=- -- - -
;;::---_ -s
Wall repair materials include: self-adhesive seam tape Walls must be clean, smooth, and free of grease before
(A), hole-patching kits (B), crack-repair compound (C), joint a painting project. If wallpaper is to be removed, a wallpaper
compound (D), stainblocking primer/sealer (E), and sink and removal agent is extremely helpful. Clockwise from top left
tub caulk (F). Some new spackling compounds (G) start out are: cleanup solution to remove old drips and splatters,
pink and dry white so you can see when they're ready to be wallcovering remover to strip old wallcoverings, trisodium
sanded and painted Sponges (H) are useful for smoothing phosphate (TSP) for washing the walls, and rubber gloves,
damp joint compound to reduce the amount of sanding that's which should be worn when using chemicals such as these.
necessary later.
preparation liquids include latex bonding agent for plaster Primers provide maximum adhesion for paint on any
repairs; paint remover; and liquid deglosser, for dulling glossy surface. There are many specialty primers available, including
surfaces prior to painting. mold-resistant primers that are especially useful in areas that
tend to be damp, such as bathrooms (A), primers made for
plaster and new drywall (B), stainblocking primers (C), and
tinted primers that reduce the need for multiple coats of paint
(particularly for deep colors) (D)
I Room Preparation
I How to Prepare a Room

B efore painting, your first step is to protec t
evelything that cou ld be covered by du st or
splattered by paint. Remove a ll window and door
hard wa re, light fixtures, and cove rpl ates on outlets and
wall switches. Drape furniture and cover th e floors.
Remove hea ting and air condition ing duct covers.
Mask off wood moldin gs with se lf-adhes ive paper or
masking tape. Painting t im e ca n be a good opportunity
to upgrad e with new hardware, like window pull s and
cab in et knob s.
Tip ｾ＠
When removing hardware, mark the pieces with
masking tape for identification so that they can easily
be replaced.
Remove ali hardware, such as window handles and cabinet

catches, from surfaces to be painted. If you will be installing
new hardware, buy it now and drill new screw holes if needed.
82 • THE CO I\ IPL ETE PHOTO GU IDE TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

3
Remove all nails, screws, and picture hangers from Remove covers from heating and air-conditioning ducts
surfaces to be painted. To prevent damage to the plaster or to protect them from splatters. Remove thermostats, or use
wallboard, use a block of wood under the head of the hammer. masking tape to protect them against paint drips.
Move furniture to the center of the room and cover it Turn off the electricity. Remove the coverplates from
with plastic sheets. In large rooms, leave an alley through the outlets and switches, then replace the cover screws. Lower
center for access if you are painting the ceiling Cover floors light fixtures away from electrical boxes, or remove the
with 9-ounce canvas drop cloths. Canvas absorbs paint spills fixtures. Cover hanging fixtures with plastic bags.
I Primers & Sealers
sea le r s hould be applied to wood surfac es befo re
A th ey are va rni sh ed. Wood often has both h ard a nd
soft grain s, as well as a highl y absorbe nt e nd grain.
Applying a sealer he lps close the surface of the wood
so the va rni sh is a bso rbed eve nl y in diffe re nt types of
wood gra in. If th e wood is not sealed, th e va rni sh may
dry to a mottl ed fini sh.
Prim ers are used to sea l s urfaces that will be
painted. \;\Ia llboa rd sea ms an d patched a reas a bso rb
pa int at a differe nt rate th a n surroundin g areas.
Joint s a nd patch a reas ofte n show or "s hadow"
through th e finished paint if th e walls are not
adeq uately primed.
C hoose a primer des igned for the project:
mildew-res ista nt primers are exce ll e nt for bathrooms
a nd lau ndry room s, sta in-bloc king primers cove r
Tinted primers provide an excellent base for finish coats,
smoke and other hard -to-cover stains, and tinted especially for deep colors that might otherwise require several
prime rs provide good bases for deep colors, such as coats to cover adequately. Color base is available to tint white
red or purple. primers if necessary.

Tips for Priming & Sealing ｾ＠
Seal raw wood by applying a primer before painting Roughen gloss surfaces with fine sandpaper, then
or a clear sealer before varnishing. Unsealed wood can prime them to provide good bonding between the new
produce a spotty finish. and the old paint. Primers provide "tooth" for the new
coat of paint.
t, PVIPr
Orywall
___
Seal textured surfaces with a PVA or alkyd primer, Prime repair areas on plaster with high-quality primer.
then apply a finish coat with a long-nap roller. Textured
walls and ceilings soak up a lot of paint and make it
difficult to apply paint evenly.
Interior Repa irs • 85

I How to Use a Paint Roller
1 2
3 1 2
Wet the roller cover with water (for latex paint) or mineral Draw the roller straight down (2) from the top of the
spirits (for alkyd enamel), to remove lint and prime the cover. diagonal sweep made in step 1. Lift and move the roller to the
squeeze out excess liquid. Dip the roller fully into the paint pan beginning of the diagonal sweep and roll up (3) to complete
reservoir and roll it over the textured ramp to distribute the the unloading of the roller.
paint evenly. The roller should be full, but not dripping. Make an
upward diagonal sweep about 4 ft. long on the surface, using a
slow stroke to avoid splattering.
3 4
Distribute the paint over the rest of the section with Smooth the area by lightly drawing the roller vertically from
horizontal back-and-forth strokes. the top to the bottom of the painted area. Lift the roller and
return it to the top of the area after each stroke.

I How to Use a Paintbrush
1 2
Dip the brush into the paint, loading one-third of its bristle Paint along the edges (called "cutting in") using the narrow
length. Tap the bristles against the side of the can to remove edge of the brush, pressing just enough to flex the bristles.
excess paint, but do not drag the bristles against the lip of Keep an eye on the paint edge, and paint with long, slow
the can. strokes. Always paint from a dry area back into wet paint to
avoid lap marks.
3 5
Brush wall corners using the wide To paint large areas with a brush, Smooth the surface by drawing
edge of the brush. Paint open areas with apply the paint with 2 or 3 diagonal the brush vertically from the top to
a brush or roller before the brushed strokes. Hold the brush at a 45" angle to the bottom of the painted area. Use
paint dries. the work surface, pressing just enough light strokes and lift the brush from
to flex the bristles. Distribute the paint the surface at the end of each stroke.
evenly with horizontal strokes. This method is best for slow-drying
alkyd enamels.
I Trim Techniques
W he n pa intin g a n e ntire room , pa int th e wood
trim first , th e n pa int the wa ll s. Sta rt by pa inting
th e in side portion s of th e trim , and work out toward
th e wall s . On windows, for in sta nce, first paint the
edges c lose to t he glass, th e n pa int th e s urrounding
face trim.
D oors should be pa inted qui c kly beca use of th e
la rge surface. To avoid lap marks, always paint from
dry s urfaces bac k into wet pa int. On baseboards, c ut
in th e top edge and work down to the floorin g. Pl as tic
flo or guard s or a wid e broadknife ca n help shield
ca rpet a nd wood floorin g from pa int drip s.
Alkyds a nd latex e namels may require two coa ts .
Always sand li ghtly betwee n coats a nd wipe with a
tac k c loth so that the second coat bonds prope rl y.
I How to Paint a Window

1
TO paint double-hung windows, remove them from their Drill holes and in sert two 2" nails into the legs of a wooden
frames if possible. Newer, spring-mounted windows are step ladder Mount the window easel-style for easy painting.
released by pushing against the frame (see arrow). Or, lay the window flat on a bench or sawhorses. Do not paint
the sides or bottom of the window sashes.

3 4
using a tapered sash brush, begin by painting the wood Remove excess paint from the glass with a putty knife
next to the glass. Use the narrow edge of the brush, and wrapped in a clean cloth. Rewrap the knife often so that you
overlap the paint onto the glass to create a weatherseal. always wipe with clean fabric. Overlap paint from the sash
onto the glass by '1,6' .
5
Case
molding
Sash
Sill
Apron
Paint all flat portions of the sashes, then the case If you must paint windows in place, move the painted
moldings, sill, and apron. Use slow brush strokes, and avoid windows up and down several times during the drying period
getting paint between the sash and the frame. to keep them from sticking. Use a putty knife to avoid touching
the painted surfaces.
I How to Paint Doors
Remove the door by driving out the lower hinge pin with a Place the door flat on sawhorses for painting. On paneled
screwdriver and hammer. Have a helper hold the door in place. doors, paint in the following order, using a brush rather
Then, drive out the middle and upper hinge pins. than a roller: 1) recessed panels, 2) horizontal rails, and 3)
vertical stiles.
Let the painted door dry. If a second coat of paint is Seal the unpainted edges of the door with a clear wood
needed, sand the first coat lightly and wipe the door with tack sealer to prevent moisture from entering the wood. Water can
cloth before repainting. cause wood to warp and swell.

Tips for Painting Trim ｾ＠
Protect wall and floor surfaces with a wide wallboard Wipe all of the paint off of the wallboard knife or
knife or a plastic shielding tool. shielding tool each time it is moved.
Paint both sides of cabinet doors. This provides an Paint deep patterned surfaces with a stiff-bristled
even moisture seal and prevents warping. brush, like this stenciling brush. Use small circular strokes
to penetrate recesses.
Interior Repa irs • 91

I Ceiling & Wall Techniques
F or a s mooth fini sh on la rge wa ll a nd ce ilin g a reas ,
pa int in small sec ti o ns. It's best to pa int b oth the
edges a nd expa nses of each wall , one a t a tim e , ra th e r
t ha n edge th e e ntire room be fo re rollin g. F irst use a
pain t bru sh to c ut in t he ed ges, t he n imm edi a te ly ro ll
th e sec ti on whil e it is still we t be fore moving o n. If
brushed edge s d ry befo re th e a rea is roll ed , la p marks
will be visible o n t he fini shed wa ll. Workin g in natural
li ght ma kes it eas ie r to spot mi ssed a reas .
C hoose high -qu ality pa int a nd too ls a nd work with
a full bru sh o r roll e r to avo id la p ma rks a nd to e nsure
full cove rage . Roll slowly to minimi ze spla tte rin g.
Tips for Painting Ceilings & Walls ｾ＠
Paint to a wet edge. Cut in the edges on small sections Minimize brush marks. Slide the roller cover slightly
with a paintbrush, then immediately roll the section . off of the roller cage when rolling near wall corners or a
(Using a corner roller makes it unnecessary to cut in ceiling line. Brushed areas dry to a different finish than
inside corners.) With two painters, have one cut in with a rolled paint.
brush while the other rolls the large areas.
92 • T HE COI\ IPL ETE PHOTO GU ID E TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

I How to Paint Ceilings
3 x 3'
2 3
Paint ceilings with a roller handle extension . Use eye protection wh ile painting overhead. Start at the corner farthest from
the entry door. Paint the ceil ing along the narrow end in 3 x 3' sections, cutting in the edges with a brush before rolling. Apply
the paint with a diagonal stroke. Distribute the paint evenly with back-and-forth strokes. For the final smoothing strokes, roll each
section toward the wall containing the entry door, lifting the roller at the end of each sweep.
I How to Paint Walls
2 x 4'
1
\
3
Paint walls in 2 x 4' sections. Start in an upper corner. cutting in the ceiling and wall corners with a brush, then rolling the section.
Make the initial diagonal roller stroke from the bottom of the section upward, to avoid dripping paint. Distribute the paint evenly with
horizontal strokes, then finish with downward sweeps of the roller. Next, cut in and roll the section directly underneath . Continue
with adjacent areas, cutting in and rolling the top sections before the bottom sections. Roll all finish strokes toward the floor.
I Painting Cabinets
f your kitc he n cabinets are in good shape stru ctul-a lly
I and you are happy with the ir configuration but not th eir
appearance, a coat of paint may be all it takes to update
Ca bin e ts with matte s urfaces in good condition
nee d onl y be wash ed with tri sodium ph osph ate
(T SP ) or an oth e r appropria te de te rge nt for
your kitc he n in a dram atic way. You ca n brighte n da rk pre pa ration. But if the surface is smoot h or glossy,
wood , fres he n up previ ously pain ted cabinet surfaces, or as whe n va rni shed or pa inte d with a glo ss e na me l,
create a new look with faux fini sh techniques. Any wood, you'll need to sa nd and/or che mically degloss be fore
metal or previously painted cabinets ca n be painted. you a ppl y pa int. An unde rcoat of prime r improves
As with a ny pa in t ing project, your final res ults adh es ion and re du ces sta in -through. If th e previous
depe nd on ca re ful a nd thorough p reparation a nd use pa in t was da rk or a hi ghl y sa turated co lor, or ba re
of hi gh -qual ity produ cts. Re move doors, drawers and wood h as bee n exposed , a n unde rcoat is a lso
a ll h ard wa re so yo u ca n pa int th e surfaces in a fl a t necessary. Do not spot-prim e bec au se th e top coat
position , elimin ating ma ny drips a nd sags _ will not cove r eve nly in tho se areas . Avoid appl ying
C hoose a high-qu ali ty e namel pa int in e ith er two laye rs of top coat, but if you do , make s ure to
satin, low-luster or se mi -gloss finish. A high gloss sa nd or degloss th e fir st coat to ge t good adh es ion o f
fini sh will hi ghlight surface de fec ts and create glare . th e second coat.
Latex pa int is s uitabl e for thi s project. Us in g a n alkyd If you a re al so c ha nging ha rd wa re, de te rmin e
(oil-based) pa int may res ult in a smooth e r fini sh with whe the r yo u will be using th e sa me screw hol es .
fewer brush marks, but the clea nup is more invol ved If not, fill the existing hol es with wood putty
a nd th e fum es may require that you wea r a res pirator. be fore sandi ng.
Painted cabinets are re-emerging as a

popular design element in kitchens. Bright
paint adds liveliness and fun, while more
neutral tones are soothi ng and let other
kitchen elements have the spotlight

I How to Paint Cabinets
Sc rewdr iver Sandpaper

Ha nd sander Mask ing tape
Brus hes Pr imer
TSP or othe r degreaser Enamel pain t
Shopping Tips ｾ＠
o Always buy the highest quality brush.
o Use synthetic-bristle brushes for latex paint.
Look for soft, flagged tips.
o Natural-bristle brushes should only be used for
oil-based paints.
Remove doors and drawers. Wash all surfaces to be
o Use a nylon brush for fine work.
painted with TSP or other degreaser. Scrape off any loose paint.
o An angled sash brush gives you more control for Sand or chemically degloss all surfaces. Wipe away sanding
painting face frames. dust and prime varnished surfaces, dark colors or bare wood
with primer.
Remove shelves, when possible, to create access for Paint both sides of doors beginning with the interior
painting cabinet interiors. Paint the cabinet backs first followed surfaces. With raised panel doors, paint the panel inserts first
by the tops, sides and then the bottoms. Paint the face frames then the horizontal rails. Paint the vertical stiles last.
last (so you won't need to reach over them when painting
the interior).
I Eliminating Stair Squeaks
T his staircase has center stringers to help support
the treads. The 2 x 4s nalled between the outs ide
stringers and the wall studs serve as spacers that allow
room for the installation of skirt boards and wall finishes. Drill Cau lk gun
Like floors, stairs squeak when the lumber Screwdriver Hardwood sh im s
becomes warped or loose boards rub together. The Hammer Wood plugs
cont inual pounding of foot traffic takes its toll on even Uti lity knife Wood glu e
the best built staircases. An unstable sta ircase is as Nail set Quarter-round molding
unsafe as it is unattractive. Prob lems related to the Wood screws Fin ish nails
structure of a staircase, such as severe sagginob' twistinob' Wood putty Construction adhesive
or slanting, shou ld be left to a professional. However,
you can eas ily comp lete many common repairs.
Squeaks are usually caused by movement between
the treads and risers, wh ich can be alleviated from
above or below the sta ircase.

I How to Eliminate Squeaks from Below the Stairs
Glue wood blocks to the joints between the treads and Fill the gaps between stair parts with tapered hardwood
risers with construction adhesive. Once the blocks are in place, shims. Coat the shims with wood glue and tap them into the
drill pilot holes and fasten them to the treads and risers with joints between treads and risers until they're snug. Shimming
wood screws. If the risers overlap the back edges of the treads, too much will widen the gap. Allow the glue to dry before
drive screws through the risers and into the treads to bind walking on the stairs.
them together.
I How to Eliminate Squeaks from Above the Stairs
When the underside of a staircase Support the joints between treads Tap glued wood shims under loose
is inaccessible, silence noisy stairs from and risers by attaching quarter-round treads to keep them from flexing. Use
above. Drill pilot holes and drive screws molding. Drill pilot holes and use finish a block to prevent splitting, and drive
down through stair treads into the nails to fasten the molding. Set the nails the shim just until it's snug. When the
risers. Countersink the screws and fill with a nail set. glue dries, cut the shims flush, using a
the holes with putty or wood plugs. utility knife.
I Replacing a Broken Stair Tread
broke n sta ir tread is haza rdo us beca use we often
A don't look at steps as we climb the m. Repl ace
a b roke n ste p right away. The diffi cul ty of thi s job
de pends on the co nstruction of your staircase and the
access ibili ty of the unders ide . It's bette r to replace a
damaged tread tha n to repa ir it . A pa tch could create an
irregul ar ste p that surpri ses so meo ne unfamili ar with it. post
Flat pry ba r Stair tread

Ha mme r Co nstruct io n
Co mbin ati on square adh es ive
C irc ul a r saw Sc rews
D rill Wood putty
Na il set Fini sh nails
Caulk gun Na il set nosing Stringer
I How to Replace a Broken Stair Tread
Carefully remove any decorative elements attached If possible, hammer upward from underneath the stairs to
to the tread. Pull up carpeting and roll it aside. Remove trim separate the tread from the risers and stringers. Otherwise, use
pieces on or around the edges of the tread. Remove the a hammer and pry bar to work the tread loose, pulling nails as
balusters by detaching the top ends from the railing and you go. Once the tread is removed, scrape the exposed edges
separating the joints in the tread. Some staircases have a of the stringers to remove old glue and wood fragments.
decorative hardwood cap inlaid into each tread. Remove these
with a flat pry bar, taking care to pry from underneath the cap
to avoid marring the exposed edges.

Measure the length for the new tread and mark it with a Apply a bead of construction adhesive to the exposed
combination square so the cut end will be square and straight. tops of the stringers. The adhesive will strengthen the bond
If the tread has a milled end for an inlay, cut from the plain between the tread and stringer and will cushion the joint,
end. Cut the new tread to size, using a circular saw, and test-fit preventing the parts from squeaking
it carefully
Set the tread in place. If you have access to the step from Reinstall any decorative elements, using finish nails. Set
underneath, secure the tread to the riser above it by driving the nails with a nail set. Reinstall the balusters, if necessary.
screws through the riser into the back edge of the tread. To
fasten it from the top side, drill and countersink pilot holes and
drive two or three screws through the tread into the top edge
of each stringer. Also drive a few screws along the front edge
of the tread into the riser below it. Fill the screw holes in the
tread with wood putty or plugs
I
Maintaining
Windows
& Doors
In this chapter:
• Solving Common Door Problems
• Weatherizing Basics
• Replacing Thresholds
• Improving Window Operation
• Repairing & Maintaining Storm Windows
& Doors
• Installing New Window Sashes
• Securing Windows & Doors
• Tuning Up Garage Doors
• Removing Windows & Doors
• Installing Prehung Interior Doors
• Installing Storm Doors
• Hanging a New Door in an Old Jamb
• Installing Entry Doors
• Installing Bifold Doors
• 101
I Solving Common Door Problems
T he most common dool' proble ms are ca used by
loose hinges . When hin ges are loose, th e door
wo n't ha ng ri ght, causing it to rub and stick and
Co mmon c loset doors, s uc h as sliding a nd bifold
types, usu ally need only so me minor adju stm e nts a nd
lubri cation to stay in workin g order.
throwing off the latc h mec hanism . The first thing to Door loc ksets a re very reliable, but they do need
do is c hec k the hinge sc rews . [f the hol es for the hinge to be c lea ne d a nd lubri ca ted occasionally. One s impl e
sc rews are worn a nd wo n't hold th e screws, try the way to keep a n e ntry door lockset wo rking smoothl y
repair on th e next page. is to spray a light lubri ca nt into the keyhole, the n
If the hinges are tight but the door still rubs the key in and out a few times. Don't use graphite
aga in st the frame , san d or plane down the door's edge, in locksets, as it ca n abrade some meta ls with
If a door does n't close eas il y, it may be warped ; use a repeated use.
long stra ightedge to ch eck for wa rpage, You may be
able to straighten a slightly wa rped door using we ights,
but seve re warpage ca n't be corrected. Instea d of
buying a new door, remove th e dOUt'stop a nd re install Tools & Materials ｾ＠
it following the c urve of the door.
Door latc h probl e ms occur for a numbe r of Sc rewdri ve rs Spray lubri cant
reaso ns: loose hinges , swollen wood , sticking Nail set Wooden go lf tees
latchbolts, and paint buildup. If yo u've addressed Hamm e r or dowe ls
those iss ues a nd the door still wo n't stay shut, it's Drill Wood glu e
probably because the door frame is out of squ a re . This U tility knife Cardboard shim s
happe ns as a house settl es with age; yo u can make Metal fil e 3" wood screws
minor adjustments by filin g the strike plate on the Straightedge Fini sh na il s
door frame. If there's so me room betwee n the frame Pry bar Pa int or stain
a nd the door, yo u can a lign the latc hbolt and strike Plane San dpape r
pl ate by shimmin g th e hin ges . Or, drive a co upl e of Paintbrush Wood seale r
extra- long sc rews to adjust th e frame slightly,
Tip ｾ＠
Latchbolts stick when they are A misaligned latch bolt and strike Sticking doors usually leave a
dirty or in need of lubrication. Clean plate will prevent the door from mark where they rub against the
and lubricate locksets, and make latching. Poor alignment may be door frame. warped doors may resist
sure the connecting screws aren't caused by loose hinges, or the door closing and feel springy when you
too ｴｩｧｨｾ｡ｮｯｴｨ･ｲ＠ cause of binding. frame may be out of square apply pressure. Check for warpage
with a straightedge.

I How to Remove a Door
Drive the lower hinge pin out using a screwdriver and Remove the door and set it aside. Clean and lubricate the
hammer. Have a helper hold the door in place, then drive out hinge pins before reinstalling the door.
the upper (and center, if applicable) hinge pins. To help get
the screwdriver tip under the pin head, use a nail set or small
punch to tap the pin up from underneath.
I How to Tighten a Loose Hinge Plate

2
Remove the door from the hinges. Coat wooden golf tees or dowels Drill pilot holes in the new wood, and
Tighten any loose screws. If the wood with wood glue, and drive them into the reinstall the hinge.
won't hold the screws tightly, remove worn screw holes. If necessary, drill out
the hinges. the holes to accept dowels. Let the glue
dry, then cut off excess wood .
Nlaintaining Windows & Doors • 103

Tips for Aligning a Latchbolt & Strike Plate ｾ＠
Check the door for a square fit. If the door is far out Install a thin cardboard shim behind the bottom
of square with the frame, remove it and shim the top or hinge to raise the position of the latch bolt. To lower the
bottom hinge (right). Or, drive long screws into one of the latch bolt. shim behind the top hinge.
hinges (below).
Remove two hinge screws from the top or bottom Fix minor alignment problems by filing the strike plate
hinge, and drive a 3" wood screw into each hole. The until the latchbolt fits.
screws will reach the framing studs in the wall and pull
the door jamb upward, changing the angle of the door.
Add long screws to the top hinge to raise the latchbolt or
to the bottom hinge to lower it.
104 • T HE CO I\ IPL ETE PHOTO GU ID E TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

I How to Straighten a warped Door
2
Check the door for warpage using a straightedge. Or, close If the warpage is slight, you can straighten the door using
the door until it hits the stop and look for a gap (see below). weights. Remove the door, and rest the ends of the door on
The amount of gap between the door and the stop reveals the sawhorses. Place heavy weights on the bowed center of the
extent of the warpage. The stop must be straight for this test, door, using cardboard to protect the finish. Leave the weights
so check it with a straightedge. on the door for several days, and check it periodically with a
straightedge.
I How to Adjust for a Severely warped Door

1 2
A severe warp cannot be corrected. Remove the doorstop using a small Close the door and latch it. Starting
Instead, you can adjust the doorstop pry bar. If it's painted, cut the paint at the top, refasten the stop, keeping
to follow the shape of the door. If you film first with a utility knife to prevent the inside edge flush against the door.
touch up the door jamb with paint or chipping. Avoid splintering by removing Drive finish nails through the old holes,
stain after you've finished, no one will nails from the stop by pulling them or drill new pilot holes through the stop.
notice the repair through the back side of the piece. Pull Set the nails with a nail set after you've
all nails from the door jamb. checked the door's operation.

I- How to Free a Sticking Door
Tighten all of the hinge screws. If the door still sticks, use During dry weather, remove the door. If you have to remove
light pencil lines to mark the areas where the door rubs against a lot of material, you can save time by planing the door (step 3).
the door jamb. Otherwise, sand the marked areas with medium-grit sandpaper.
Make sure the door closes without sticking, then smooth the
sanded areas with fine-grit sandpaper.
Toe knob
Secure the door on-edge. If the door has veneered Apply clear sealer or paint to the sanded or planed area
surfaces, cut through the veneers with a utility knife to prevent and any other exposed surfaces of the door. This will prevent
splintering. operate the plane so the wood grain runs "uphill" moisture from entering the wood and is especially important
ahead of the plane. Grip the toe knob and handle firmly, and for entry doors.
plane with long, smooth strokes. To prevent dipping, press
down on the toe at the start of the stroke, and bear down on
the heel at the end of the stroke. Check the door's fit, then
sand the planed area smooth .

I How to Maintain a Sliding Door
Clean the tracks above and below the Spray a greaseless lubricant on all Check the gap along the bottom edge
doors with a toothbrush and a damp the rollers, but do not spray the tracks. of the door to make sure it is even. To
cloth or a hand vacuum. Replace any bent or worn parts. adjust the gap, rotate the mounting
screw to raise or lower the door edge.
I How to Maintain a Bifold Door

Pins
open or remove the doors and Check closed doors for alignment Adjustable pivot blocks are also
wipe the tracks with a clean rag. Spray within the door frame. If the gap found at the bottom of some door
the tracks and rollers or pins with between the closed doors is uneven, models. Adjust the pivot blocks until the
greaseless lubricant adjust the top pivot blocks with a gap between the door and the frame
screwdriver or wrench. is even.

I Weatherizing Basics
N o matte r wheth e r you li ve in a hot or a co ld
clim ate, wea th eri zing yo ur home's wind ows a nd
doo rs can payoff ha ndso mely. Heatin g a nd coo ling
Sin ce most weat her izin g projects a re re lati ve ly
in expens ive, yo u ca n recover yo ur investm e nt qui ckly.
In fac t, in so me clim ates, you ca n pay bac k the cost of
cos ts may acco un t fo r over ha lf of th e total house hold a weatherproofi ng p roject in one seaso n.
e ne rgy bill. If you li ve in a co ld c lim ate, yo u p robabl y a lready
understa nd th e importance of wea th eri zing. Th e
value of kee ping warm a ir inside th e house during a
co ld win te r is obvious. From the sta nd poin t of e ne rgy
effic ie ncy, it's equ a ll y im po rta nt to preve nt wa rm a ir
fro m e nte ring th e house during summ e r.
Weath eri zing your home is a n idea l do- it-yo urself
projec t, beca use it ca n be do ne a little at a tim e,
acco rding to yo ur sc hedul e . [n cold clim ates, th e bes t
tim e of the yea r to weathe ri ze is the fa ll, befo re it
turn s too co ld to work outdoors.
Wh et he r yo u're co nce rn ed a bout the e nvironm ent
or wa nt to spe nd less on yo ur utility bill s, so me
s imp le adju stm e nts around yo ur home ca n help yo u
acco mpli sh yo m goal.
Most weathe ri zing projects dea l with wind ows
and doors, beca use th ese a re th e p rim ary areas of
heat loss in mos t homes. Here are a few sim ple
Before buying a basement window well cover, measure suggest ions yo u mi ght co ns ide r for the exte rior of
the widest point of the window well and note its shape. yo ur home:
Use a caulk that matches your home exterior to seal the A felt door sweep can seal out drafts, even if you have an
window and door frames. uneven floor or a low threshold.

Minimize heat loss from base me nt window wells Generally, metal a nd metal-re inforc ed weather
by cove rin g them with pl astic window well covers stripping is more durable th an products made of
(left, top). Most window we ll cove rs have an uppe r plastic, rubbe r, or foam. However, even plastic, rubber,
flange designed to slip under the siding. Slip this in and foa m weathe r stripping products have a wide
place, then fasten the cover to the foundation with ra nge of qua li ty. T he best rubber products are those
maso my anchors and weigh down the bottom fl a nge made from neopre ne rubber- use thi s whe neve r it's
with stones. For extra weatherizing, seal the edges available.
with caulk. A door sweep (prev ious page, bottom) attac hes
Adding ca ulk is a simpl e way to fill na rrow ga ps to the ins ide botto m of the doo r to sea l out drafts.
in interior or exte rior surfaces. It's also available in a A felt or bristl e sweep is bes t if yo u have an uneven
peelable form that can be eas ily removed at the e nd of floor or a low thres hold. Vinyl a nd rubber model s are
the season. also available.
\,vhe n bu ying ca ulk, es timate ha lf a ca rtrid ge pe r A threshold insert fits around the base of the door.
window or door, four for a n average-s ized found ation Most have a sweep on the interior side and a drip
sill , and at least one more to close gaps aro und vents, edge on the exterior side to direct water away from the
pipes , and other ope nings . thres hold.
Caulk around the outside of th e window and door A threshold in se rt sea ls the ga p betwee n the
fram es to seal a ny ga ps. For best res ults, use a caulk door and the threshold. These are made from vin yl
that matc hes or bl ends with the co lor of yo ur sidi ng. or rubb er a nd ca n be eas il y replaced.
T he re a re many diffe re nt types of ca ulk and Self-adhesive foam strips (below) attach to sashes
wea th er stripping materi als. All are in expe nsive and easy and frames to sea l the air gaps at windows and doors.
to use, but it's important to get the right material s for Re inforced felt strips have a metal spine that adds
the job, as most are designed for spec ifi c applications. rigidity in high-impact areas, suc h as doorstops.
B
. -- -
weatherizing products commonly found in home centers include: A clear film, heat-shrink window insulator kit (A); an
aluminum door threshold with vinyl weatherstripping insert (B); a nail-on, rubber door sweep (C); minimal expanding spray foam
(D); silicone window and door cau lk (E); open-cell foam cau lk-backer rod (F); self-adhesive, closed-cell foam weatherstripping coil
(G); flexible brass weatherstripping coil, also called V-channel, (H).

Tips for Weatherizing Doors ｾ＠
Door weather stripping is prone to failure because it undergoes constant stress. Use metal weather stripping that is
tacked to the surfaces whenever you can-especially around door jambs. It is much more durable than self-adhesive
products. If your job calls for flexible weather stripping, use products made from neoprene rubber, not foam. Replace old
door thresholds or threshold inserts as soon as they begin to show wear.
Install a storm door to decrease drafts and energy loss Adjust the door frame to eliminate large gaps between
through entry doors. Buy an insulated storm door with a the door and jamb Remove the interior case molding and
continuous hinge and seamless exterior surface. drive new shims between the jamb and framing member
on the hinge side, reducing the size of the door opening.
Close the door to test fit, and adjust as needed before
reattaching the case molding.
Patio door: Use rubber compression strips to seal the Garage door: Attach a new rubber sweep to the bottom
channels in patio door jambs, where movable panels outside edge of the garage door if the old sweep has
fit when closed. Also install a patio door insulator kit deteriorated. Also check the door jambs for drafts, and
(plastic sheeting installed similarly to plastic sheeting for add weather stripping, if needed.
windows) on the interior side of the door.
1 10 • T HE COI\ IPL ETE PHOTO GU ID E TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

I How to Weatherize an Exterior Door
1-
2
ｾ＠
Cut two pieces of metal tension strip or V-channel the Add reinforced felt strips to the edge of the doorstop on
full height of the door opening, and cut another to full width. the exterior side. The felt edge should form a close seal with
Use wire brads to tack the strips to the door jambs and door the door when closed. Tip: Drive fasteners only until they are
header on the interior side of the doorstops. Tip: Attach metal flush with the surface of the reinforcing spine-overdriving will
weather stripping from the top down to help prevent buckling cause damage and buckling
Flare out the tension strips with a putty kn ife to fill the gaps
between the jambs and the door when the door is in the
closed position (do not pry too far at a time).
Tip ｾ＠
Attach a new door sweep to the bottom of the door on Fix any cracks in wooden door panels with epoxy
the interior side (felt or bristle types are better choices if the wood filler or caulk to block air leaks. If the door has
floor is uneven). Before fastening it permanently, tack the a stain finish, use tinted wood putty, filling from the
sweep in place and test the door swing to make sure there is interior side. Sand and touch up with paint or stain.
enough clearance.

Tips for Weatherizing a Window ｾ＠
Sliding windows: Treat side-by-side slidi ng windows Casement windows: Attach self-adhesive foam or
as if they were double-hung windows turned 90°. For rubber compression strips on the outside edges of the
greater durability, use metal tension strips, rather than window stops.
self-adhesive compressible foam, in the sash track that fit
against the edge of the sash when the window is closed.
Storm windows: Create a tight seal by attaching foam compression strips to the outside of storm window stops. After
installing the storm window, fill any gaps between the exterior window trim and the storm window with caulk backer rope
(left). Check the inside surface of the storm window during cold weather for condensation or frost buildup (facing page).
If moisture is trapped between the storm window and the permanent window, drill one or two small holes through the
bottom rail (right) to allow moist air to escape. Drill at a slightly upward angle.

I How to weatherstrip a Window
1 2
'"
ｾ＠
'"
Cut metal V-channel to fit in the channels for the sliding Flare out the open ends of the V-channels with a putty
sash, extending at least 2" past the closed position for each knife so the channel is slightly wider than the gap between the
sash (do not cover sash-closing mechanisms). Attach the sash and the track it fits into. Avoid flaring out too much at one
V-channel by driving wire brads (usually provided by the time-it is difficult to press V-channel back together without
manufacturer) with a tack hammer. Drive the fasteners flush causing some buckling.
with the surface so the sliding sash will not catch on them.
3 4
Bottom sash (raised)
Top sash (lowered)
Wipe down the underside of the bottom window sash Seal the gap between the top sash and the bottom sash
with a damp rag, and let it dry; then attach self-adhesive on double-hung windows. Lift the bottom sash and lower the
compressible foam or rubber to the underside of the sash. Use top sash to improve access, and tack metal V-channel to the
high-quality hollow neoprene strips, if available. This will create bottom rail of the top sash using wire brads. Tip: The open end
an airtight seal when the window is locked in position. of the ''V'' should be pointed downward so moisture cannot
collect in the channel. Flare out the V-channel with a putty
knife to fit the gap between the sash.

I Shortening Interior Doors
T here should be a % to 0/.," gap between the bottom
of interior doors and the finished floor. This lets th e
door swing without binding on new carpet or other floor
coverings. But eventuall y, yo u may decide to recarpet or Ha mm er

add new tile or wood flooring beneath an exis ting door, Sc rewdri ver
a nd yo u'll need to shorte n the door to create the proper Utility knife
gap aga in. If yo u own a circular saw with a fine -tooth Sawhorses
blade, it's a simple project for a do-it-yourselfer. C irc ular saw with fine-tooth blade
Most newer homes have so lid-wood interior Straightedge
doors these days, but hollow-core doors are still C lamps
fairly common, and they're typical on older homes . Fil e
Shortening e ither door type is a similar task, but Sanding block
hollow-core doors will require a few more steps beca use Sc ra p plywood
the door consists of multiple pieces (see page 11 7).
Changing a floor covering is a great way to update the look of a room, but if the new floor covering is thicker than the old one,
you can impede door swing. The solution is to shorten the door.

I How to Shorten a Solid Wood Door
2
Set a strip of scrap plywood on the floor against the door, Remove the door from the jamb by tapping out the hinge
and trace along the plywood to create a reference line for pins with a hammer and flat-blade screwdriver. If the hinge
cutting. The thickness of the plywood will set the amount of pins are fixed, you'll need to unscrew the hinge leaves from
door gap, and it will help establish an even gap line. Do not the jamb instead.
press the plywood down into the carpet when drawing the line.
If the flooring is uneven, open the door to where it rubs the
most and use this spot to mark the gap.
To prevent the saw from chipping

the wood as it cuts, use a sharp utility
knife to score along the cutting line. Guide
the knife against a metal straightedge.
Score both door faces and the edges.
(continued)

Clamp a straightedge to the door so the
saw blade will cut about '1,,' on the waste
side of your score line. The straightedge
provides a guide for the edge of the saw
base. Use the saw with a fine-tooth blade
installed to check your setup.
Set the blade so the teeth project about

'/4' below the door, and guide the saw
along the straightedge to saw off the door
bottom. Use steady feed pressure, and
slow down your cutting rate at the end to
prevent splintering the door edge.
Use a file to soften the sharp edges

of the cut and to form a very slight
chamfer all around the door bottom .
Switch to a sanding block and medium-grit
sandpaper to smooth away any blade
marks and roughness.

Variation: Hollow-core Doors ｾ＠
With the door in place, measure 'fa" up from the top of Mark the cutting line. Cut through the door veneer
the floor covering and mark the door. Remove the door with a sharp utility knife to prevent it from chipping when
from the hinges by tapping out the hinge pins with a the door is sawed.
screwdriver and a hammer.
Lay the door on sawhorses and To reinstall a cutoff frame piece Apply wood glue to the cutoff
clamp a straightedge to the door as a in the bottom of the door, chisel piece. Insert the frame piece into the
cutting guide. Saw off the bottom of the veneer from both sides of the opening of the door and clamp it
the door. The hollow core of the door removed portion. Wipe away any excess glue and let
may be exposed. the door dry overnight

I Replacing Thresholds ,,
V Exterior trim
L-l-- Side jamb
W hil e const ru ctio n va ri es from hom e to hom e,

th e part of a door th at is ge nera ll y referred to
as th e "thres hold " is actually mad e up of two separate
-l--f.--- Door
Saddle
co mpon e nts: a s ill , w hi c h se rves as the bottom of Sill
the door frame a nd di ve rts wate r a nd dirt away fro m
the hom e, a nd th e threshold or sa ddle, which is
attac hed to th e s ill a nd he lp s to sea l th e air space Subfloor -
under a door. Due to co nsta nt traffic and ex pos ure Rim joist
to the e le me nts , sill s a nd sa ddl es may event ua ll y
req uire replac in g.
Modern pre hun g doors often have a cast me tal
s ill with a n integrate d saddl e and a re in stalle d
direc tl y on top of th e subfloor. Older hom es ofte n
have thick woode n s ill s th at are in stall ed lower
than meta l sills, flu sh w ith the floor framing, with
,
a separate sadd le bridging the gap betwee n the V Exterior trim
s ill a nd th e finish ed floor. Saddles are ava il abl e in ,
several styles and materi als, such as wood , me tal , ｉｾＭＭｓｩ､･＠ jamb
a nd vin yl. Because the design of e ntry thresholds l-'-_- Door
ca n va ry, it is importa nt to exam in e the co nst ru ct ion
of yo ur doo r thres hold to determin e yo ur needs. In
Saddle
thi s project, we repl aced a deter iorating woode n Sill
sill and sadd le w it h a new oak s ill and a woode n
weat hers tri pped sadd le.
Besides replacing a de ter iora tin g thresh old ,
yo u might a lso choose to rep lace a n ex istin g
thres hold for in c reased access ibility. \l\1hile sta nda rd
Rim joist
thresholds are designed to kee p mud a nd dirt out of
a hom e, they d e ny access to peop le in w hee lc ha irs
a nd can ca use people to trip if th ey are un stea dy
on th e ir fe e t. See page 12 1 for tip s on makin g
thresholds accessible.
Exterior trim
Tools & Materials ｾ＠ -,-- - Side jamb

ｉｾｾＭｄｯｲ＠
Reciprocating saw I 'Ii" galva ni zed

Pry bar sc rews or 8d
Hammer galva nized nail s Adjustable
wood saddle Built-in
Drill with Shims metal
co unters ink bit Putty threshold
Pencil Sili co ne ca ulk
3" galva n ized screws Sealer/protectant Subfloor I"'!--_ Shea thing
or IOd ga lva nized Sill support
cas ing na il s ｟ＭＮｉｾｊｖＱｾｉﾱＺ］Ｍｒｩｭ＠ joist
118 • THE COI\ IPLET E PHOTO GU ID E TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

I How to Replace an Exterior Door Threshold
Remove the old saddle. This may be as easy as unscrewing Examine the sill for damage or deterioration. If it needs
the saddle and prying it out If necessary, cut the old saddle replacing, use a reciprocating saw to cut the sill into three
in two using a reciprocating saw, then pry out the saddle. Be pieces, cutting as close to the jambs as possible. pry out the
careful not to damage the flooring or door frame. Note which center piece, then use a hammer and chisel to split out the
edge of the saddle is more steeply beveled; the new saddle pieces directly beneath the jambs. Remove any remaining nails
should be installed the same way. from beneath the jambs using a reciprocating saw with a metal
cutting blade.
Measure and cut the new sill to size. If possible, use the Test-fit the new sill, tapping it into place beneath the jambs
salvaged end pieces from the old sill as a template to mark the using a hammer and wood block to protect the sill. Remove
notches on the new sill. Cut the notches using a jigsaw. the sill and, if necessary, install long wood strips (or tapered
shims) beneath the sill so it fits snugly beneath the jambs with
a gentle slope away from the home.
(continued)

Apply several beads of caulk to the area beneath the sill. Measure the distance between the jambs and cut the new
Tap the sill back in place. Drill countersunk pilot holes every saddle to length. Test-fit the saddle. Mark the ends and cut
4 to 5" and fasten the sill with 10d galvanized casing nails or notches to fit around the door jamb stops using a jigsaw Apply
3" screws. caulk to the bottom of the saddle and position it so it covers
the gap between the sill and the finished floor. Fasten the
saddle using 1y," galvanized screws.
Variation ｾ＠ Waterproofing Tip ｾ＠
If you are installing a metal saddle, instead of A threshold insert seals the gap between the door
cutting notches in the saddle, use a hammer and and the saddle. A door sweep attaches to the door
chisel to notch the jamb stops to fit. bottom to help seal out drafts.
120 • THE CO I\ IPLETE PHOTO GU IDE TO HOI\IE HEPAIH

Variation: Making Thresholds Accessible ｾ＠
Flange
Bolt
Oak insert _______
Socket
Adjustable sills: Many prehung doors have an aluminum

sill with an adjustable wood saddle. Some versions can
be made accessible without additional modification by
lowering the saddle as far as possible. Other types can be
adapted by recessing the sill into the subfloor.
Standard Installation (Inaccessible)
Sill
Flooring
Decking Subfloor
Accessible Installation
Decking
aligns
with top
of sill '\
Sill
TIL Flooring
Subfloor
Accessible thresholds: There are many ways to modify Mini-ramps: The slide channels on most sliding glass
standard thresholds for accessibility. Often, the first step is doors present a major obstacle for wheelchair users.
to raise the exterior surface or decking to the same level as The height difference can be as much as 2" from the
the threshold. Entry thresholds should be no higher than y," bottom to the top of the track. Commercially available
for square-edged sills and y," high for beveled sills. mini-ramps can make standard sliding glass door
thresholds accessible.
Nlainta ining Windows & Doors • 121

I Improving Window Operation
M any of us have experienced difficulty with
opening windows due to swell ed wood or
painted channels. Almost as frequent, windows won't
stay open because of a broken sash cord or chain. To
avoid difficulties with windows, regular maintenance is
cruc ia l. Double-hung windows with spring- loaded sash
tracks require cleaning and an occasional adjustment
of the springs in (or behind ) the tracks. Casement
windows are ofte n faulty at the crank mechanisms. If
clean ing doesn't fix the problem, the crank mechanism
must be replaced. For storm windows, the window
track must be clean, and greaseless lubricant must be
applied each time the windows and screens are removed.
Screwdrivers Toothbrush
Paint zipper or Paint solvent
utility knife Rags
Hammer Sash cord
Vacuum Lubricant
Small pry bar \,vax cand Ie
Scissors Strin g Windows endure temperature extremes, house setting,
StifF brush All-purpose grease and all sorts of wear and tear. Sooner or later you'll need to
perform a bit of maintenance to keep them working properly.
I How to Adjust Windows

2
Spring-loaded windows have an adjustment screw on the Spring-lift windows operate with the help of a spring-loaded
track insert. Adjust both sides until the window is balanced and lift rod inside a metal tube. Adjust them by unscrewing the
opens and closes smoothly. top end of the tube from the jamb, then twisting the tube to
change the spring tension: clockwise for more lifting power;
counterclockwise for less. Maintain a tight grip on the tube at
all times to keep it from unwinding

Tips for Freeing Sticking Windows ｾ＠
Cut the paint film if the window is painted shut. Insert a Place a block of scrap wood against the window sash.
paint zipper or utility kn ife between the window stop and Tap lightly with a hammer to free the window.
the sash, and slide it down to break the seal.
..
Clean the tracks on sliding Clean weatherstrips by spraying lubricate wood window channels
windows and doors with a hand with a cleaner and wiping away by rubbing them with a white candle,
vacuum and a toothbrush. Dirt dirt. Use paint solvent to remove then open and close the window a
buildup is common on storm paint that may bind windows. Then few times. Do not use liquid lubricants
window tracks. apply a small amount of lubricant to on wood windows.
prevent sticking.
Nlainta ining W indows & Doors • 123

I How to Replace Broken Sash Cords
2 3
Sash
cord
Cut any paint seal between the Bend the stops out from the center to Slide out the lower window sash.
window frame and stops with a utility remove them from the frame. Remove Pull knotted or nailed cords from holes
knife or paint zipper. Pry the stops any weatherstripping that's in the way. in the sides of the sash (see step 9).
away from the frame, or remove the
molding screws.
5 6
Pry out or unscrew the weight pocket Tie one end of a piece of string to a Pull on the string to run the new sash
cover in the lower end of the window nail and the other end to the new sash cord over the pulley and through the
channel. Pull the weight from the cord. Run the nail over the pulley and let weight pocket. Make sure the new cord
pocket, and cut the old sash cord from it drop into the weight pocket. Retrieve runs smoothly over the pulley.
the weight. the nail and string through the pocket.
8 1iJ-""""'-ii -- - Sash
Weight
'i.-'-JI-- - Knot
Attach the end of the sash cord to Rest the bottom sash on the sill. Knot the sash cord and wedge the
the weight using a tight double knot. Hold the sash cord against the side of knot into the hole in the sash. Replace
Set the weight in the pocket. Pull on the the sash, and cut enough cord to reach the pocket cover. Slide the window
cord until the weight touches the pulley. 3" past the hole in the side of the sash. and any weatherstripping into the
frame, then attach the stops in the
original positions

I How to Clean & Lubricate a Casement Window Crank
2
Channel
knob
If a casement window is hard to Disengage the extension arm by lubricate the track and hinges
crank, clean the accessible parts. Open pulling it down and out of the track. with spray lubricant or household oil.
the window until the roller at the end Clean the track with a stiff brush, and Wipe off excess lubricant with a cloth,
of the extension arm is aligned with the wipe the pivoting arms and hinges with then reattach the extension arm. If that
access slot in the window track. a rag. doesn't solve the problem, repair or
replace the crank assembly (below).
I How to Repair a Casement Window Crank Assembly

3
Disengage the extension arm from Remove the screws securing the Apply an all-purpose grease to
the window track, then remove the crank assembly, then remove the the gears, and reinstall the assembly.
molding or cap concealing the crank assembly and clean it thoroughly. If Connect the pivot arms, and attach the
mechanism. unhinge any pivot arms the gears are badly worn, replace the extension arm to the window. Test the
connected to the window. assembly. Check a home center or call window operation before installing the
the manufacturer for new parts. Note cap and molding.
which way the window opens-to
the right or left-when ordering
replacement parts.

I How to Fix a Broken Windowpane
2
,/
/'
wearing heavy leather gloves, remove the broken pieces

of glass. Then, soften the old glazing compound using a heat
gun or a hair dryer. Don't hold the heat gun too long in one
Once a section of compound is soft, remove it using a
putty knife. Work carefully to avoid gouging the wood frame.
--
If a section is difficult to scrape clean, reheat it with the heat
place because it can be hot enough to scorch the wood or gun. Soft compound is always easy to remove.
crack adjacent panes of glass.
3 4
Once the wood opening is scraped clean, seal the wood

- Apply a thin bed of glazing compound to the wood frame
with a coat of linseed oil or primer. If the wood isn't sealed, opening and smooth it in place with your thumb.
the dry surface will draw too much moisture from the glazing
compound and reduce its effectiveness.

6
Press the new pane into the opening, making sure to Drive glazier's points into the wood frame to hold the
achieve a tight seal with the compound on all sides. wiggle pane in place. Use the tip of a putty knife to slide the point
the pane from side to side and up and down until the pane is against the surface of the glass. Install at least 2 points on each
seated. There will be some squeeze-out, but do not press all side of the pane.
the compound out.
7 8
Make a rope of compound (about '/2' dia.) by rolling it Allow the glazing compound at least one week to dry
between your hands. Then press it against the pane and the completely. Then prime and paint it to match the rest of the
wood frame. Smooth it in place by drawing a putty knife, held sash. Be sure to spread the paint over the joint between the
at a 45' angle, across its surface. Scrape off excess. compound and the glass. This will seal the joint completely
When the paint is dry, scrape off the extra with a razor blade
paint scraper.

I Repairing & Maintaining
Storm Windows & Doors
C ompa re d to re movable wood storm windows a nd

sc ree ns, re pa irin g co mbin ation sto rm windows is
a little more co mp lex. But th e re a re severa l re pail"s you
ca n make with out too mu ch diffi c ul ty, as long as yo u
find th e right parts. Take the old corn er keys, gaskets,
or othe r origin al pa rts to a hardwa re store th at re pa irs
sto rm windows so th e c le rk ca n he lp YO Li fi nd the
correc t replaceme nt parts. If yo u ca nn ot fin d th e right
parts, h ave a new sas h built.
Tape meas ure Na il set

Sc rewd ri ver Ha mme r
Sc isso rs Spline co rd
Drill Sc ree ning, glass
Remove the metal storm window sash by pressing in
Utility knife Rubber gaske t the release hardware in the lower rail then lifting the sash out.
Spline roll e r Re pl ace me nt ha rdware Sash hangers on the corne rs of the top rail should be aligned
with the notches in the side channels before removal.
I How to Replace Screening in a Metal Storm Window
pry the vinyl spline from the groove Stretch the new screen tightly Use the concave side of the spline
around the edge of the frame with a over the frame so that it overlaps the roller to press the spline into the groove
screwdriver. Retain the old spline if edges of the frame. Keeping the screen (it helps to have a partner for th is). Cut
it is still flexible, or replace it with a taut, use the convex side of a spline away excess screen using a utility knife.
new spline roller to press the screen into the
retaining grooves.

I How to Replace Glass in a Metal Storm Window
Remove the sash frame from the window, then Set the frame on a flat surface, and disconnect the top rail.
completely remove the broken glass from the sash. Remove Remove the retaining screws in the sides of the frame stiles
the rubber gasket that framed the old glass pane and remove where they join the top rail. After unscrewing the retaining
any glass remnants. Find the dimensions for the replacement screws, pull the top rail loose, pulling gently in a downward
glass by measuring between the inside edges of the frame motion to avoid damaging the L-shaped corner keys that join
opening, then adding twice the thickness of the rubber gasket the rail and the stiles. For glass replacement, you need only
to each measurement. disconnect the top rail.
Top rail
Corner
key
Stile
Fit the rubber gasket (buy a replacement if the original is Slide the glass pane into the channels in the stiles and
in poor condition) around one edge of the replacement glass bottom rail of the sash frame. Insert corner keys into the top
pane. At the corners, cut the spine of the gasket partway so rail, then slip the other ends of the keys into the frame stiles.
it will bend around the corner. Continue fitting the gasket Press down on the top rail until the mitered corners are flush
around the pane, cutting at the corners, until all four edges are with the stiles. Drive the retaining screws back through the
covered . Trim off any excess gasket material. stiles and into the top rail to join the frame together. Reinsert
the frame into the window

I How to Disassemble & Repair a Metal Sash Frame
Crimp
Broken
corner
key
Retaining Shown cut

screw away for
clarity
Metal window sash are held together at the corner joints Corner keys are secured in the rail slots with crimps that
by L-shaped pieces of hardware that fit into grooves in the are punched into the metal over the key. To remove keys, drill
sash frame pieces. To disassemble a broken joint, start by through the metal in the crimped area using a drill bit the same
disconnecting the stile and rail at the broken joint-there is diameter as the crimp. carefully knock the broken key pieces
usually a retaining screw driven through the stile that must from the frame slots with a screwdriver and hammer.
be removed.
Replacement corner
3 key assembly
Original corner
key assembly
Locate matching replacement Insert the replacement corner key Insert the glass and gasket into the
parts for the broken corner key, which assembly into the slot in the rail. Use a frame slots, then reassemble the frame
is usually an assembly of two or three nail set as a punch, and rap it into the and drive in retainer screws (for screen
pieces. There are dozens of different metal over the corner key, creating a windows, replace the screening).
types, so it is important that you save new crimp to hold the key in place.
the old parts for reference.
130 • THE CO I\ IPLET E PHOTO GU IDE TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

Tips for Maintaining Storm Windows & Doors ｾ＠
--
Replace turn buttons and window Lubricate the sliding assemblies Replace deteriorated glazing
cl ips that do not hold storm windows on metal-framed combination storm around glass panes in wood-framed
tightly in place Fill old screw holes windows or doors once a year using windows. Sound glazing makes
with wood dowels and glue before penetrating lubricant windows more energy-efficient and
driving the screws. more attractive.
Tighten storm door latches by Add a wind chain if your storm Adjust the door closer so it has the
red riving loose screws in the strike door does not have one. Wind chains right amount of tension to close the
plate. If the latch does not catch on prevent doors from blowing open door securely, without slamming. Most
the strike plate, loosen the screws too far, causing damage to the door closers have tension-adjustment screws
on the strike plate, insert thin wood hinges or closer. Set the chain so the at the end of the cylinder farthest from
shims between the plate and the door will not open more than 90°. the hinge side of the door.
jamb, and retighten the screws.
Nlainta ining W indows & Doors • 131

I Installing New Window Sash
I f you're looking to repl ace or imp rove old single- or
double-hung windows, consider using sash- replacement
kits. 111ey can give you energy-effi cient, maintenance-free
Nea rl y all major window manu fact urers offe r
sash-replacement kits designed to fit their own windows.
You can also order custom kits that are sized to your
windows without changing the outwa rd ap pea rance of specific window dime nsions. A good fi t is esse ntial to the
your home or breaking your budget. perfo rmance of your new windows. Review the tips shown
Unlike prime wi ndow replacement, which changes the on the next page for measuring your existing wi ndows, and
entire wi ndow and frame, or pocket window replacement, follow the manufacturer's in structions for the best fit.
in which a co mplete window unit is set into the existi ng
fra me, sash rep lacement uses the original wi ndow jambs,
eliminating the need to alter exterior or interior walls or Tools & Materials ｾ＠
trim. Installing a sash-replacement kit involves little more
than removi ng the old window stops and sashes and Sill -bevel ga uge I " galva ni zed
installing new vinyl jamb liners and wood or vi nyl sash. And Flat pry bar roofi ng nail s
all of the work can be done from inside your home . Sc isso rs Fibe rglass in s ul at ion
M ost sas h-re pl ace me nt ki ts offe r til t feat ures a nd Sc rewd river F ini sh nail s
oth e r conte mpora ry con veni e nces. Kits a re ava il able Na il set Wood-fi ni shing
in vinyl, a luminum, or wood co nstru cti on with va rious Sas h-replace me nt ki t mate rials
o ptions for color a nd glaz in g, e nergy e ffi Cie ncy, To rpedo Level
sec uri ty feat ures, a nd no ise redu cti on.
upgrade old, leaky windows with new, energy-efficient sash-replacement kits. Kits are available in a variety of styles to match
your existing windows or to add a new decorative accent to your home. Most kits offer natural or painted interior surfaces and a
choice of outdoor surface finishes.

I How to Install a New Window Sash
Measure the width of the existing window at the top, Check for a straight, level, and plumb sill , side, and head
middle, and bottom of the frame. Use the smallest measurement, jambs using a torpedo level. Measure the frame diagonally
then reduce the figure by %". Measure the height of the existing to check for square (if the diagonal measurements are equal,
window from the head jamb to the point where the outside edge the frame is square). If the frame is not square, check with the
of the bottom sash meets the sill. Reduce the figure by '18". Note: sash-kit manufacturer: Most window kits can accommodate
Manufacturers' specifications for window sizing may vary. some deviation in frame dimensions.
Carefully remove the interior stops from the side jambs, With the bottom sash down, cut the cord holding the sash,
using a putty knife or pry bar. Save the stops for reinstallation. balancing weight on each side of the sash. Let the weights and
cords fall into the weight pockets.
(continued)

Lift out the bottom sash . Remove the parting stops from Position the jamb-liner brackets, and fasten them to the
the head and side jambs (The parting stops are the strips of jambs with 1" galvanized roofing nails. Place one bracket
wood that separate the top and bottom sash) Cut the sash approximately 4" from the head jamb and one 4" from the sill.
cords for the top sash, then lift out the top sash. Remove the Leave y,,' clearance between the blind stop and the jamb-liner
sash-cord pulleys. If possible, pull the weights from the weight bracket. Install any remaining brackets, spacing them evenly
pockets at the bottom of the side jambs, then fill the weight along the jambs.
pockets with fiberglass insulation. Repair any parts of the
jambs that are rotted or damaged.
Position any gaskets or weatherstripping provided Set the sash control mechanism, using a slotted
for the jamb liners. carefully position each liner against its screwdriver. Gripping the screwdriver firmly, slide down
brackets and snap it into place. When both liners are installed, the mechanism until it is about 9" above the sill, then
set the new parting stop into the groove of the existing head turn the screwdriver to lock the mechanism and prevent
jamb, and fasten it with small finish nails. Install a vinyl sash it from springing upward. The control mechanisms are
stop in the interior track at the top of each liner to prevent the spring-loaded- do not let them go until they are locked in
bottom sash from being opened too far. place. Set the mechanism in each of the four sash channels.

Install the top sash into the jamb liners. Set the cam pivot Install the bottom sash into the jamb liners, setting it
on one side of the sash into the outside channel. Tilt the sash, into the inside sash channels. When the bottom sash is set in
and set the cam pivot on the other side of the sash. Make the vertical position, slide it down until it engages the control
sure both pivots are set above the sash control mechanisms. mechanisms. Open and close both sash to make sure they
Holding the sash level, tilt it up, depress the jamb liners on operate properly.
both sides, and set the sash in the vertical position in the jamb
liners. Once the sash is in position, slide it down until the cam
pivots contact the locking terminal assemblies.
Reinstall the stops that you removed in step 3. Fasten them Check the tilt operation of the bottom sash to make sure
with finish nails, using the old nail holes, or drill new pilot holes the stops do not interfere. Remove the labels, and clean the
for the nails. windows. Paint or varnish the new sash as desired.

I Securing Windows & Doors
S ecuring windows and doors is often simp ly a
matter of having the right hardware pieces. But
skimping on strength or quality with any of them wi ll
Garage doot's are structura ll y secure, but theit'
locking devices can make them easy targets. \Nhen
you're away from home, place a padlock in the roller
undermine the security of the whole system. track. If you have an automatic door opener, make
G lass is both the strength and weakness of sure the remote transmitter uses a rolling code system,
windows, in terms of security. An intruder can easily which prevents thieves from copying yo ur signa l. An
break the glass, but may not, since the noise it wou ld electronic keypad can make your garage door as secure
make is likely to draw attention. Aside from installing and easy to use as your front door.
metal bars, there's no way to secure the glass, so
make sure your windows can't be opened from
the outside.
Entry doors shou ld be metal or solid wood- at Tools & Materials ｾ＠
least J 3j/ thick- and each one in the horne shou ld
have a dead bolt lock, as doorknob locks provide Hammer Plywood
littl e sec urity. Lock quality varies widely; just make Drill Casinob nails
sure to choose one that has a bolt (or bolt core) Hole saw Board
of hardened steel and a minimum J" throw- Spade bit Eye bolts
the distance the bolt protrudes from the door Awl Hinge
when e ngaged. Screwdriver Screws
Door hinges a re easy to secure. Manufacturers Ch ise l Dowel
offer a variety of inexpensive devices that hold a door Uti lity knife Security devices
in place even when the hinge pins are removed.
Sliding door lock
Double-hung
window lock
Security
box strike &
faceplate
Sliding
window locks
Piston-type
window lock
Deadbolt
cylinder

I Tips for Securing Windows
Pin together sashes of single- and double-hung windows Drive screws into the top channel of sliding windows to
with % x 3" eye bolts. With the window closed, drill a 'I4'-dia. prevent intruders from lifting the window sash out of the lower
hole, at a slight downward angle, through the top rail of the channel. The screws should just clear the top of the window
bottom sash and into the bottom rail of the top sash. Avoid and not interfere with its operation. Use sturdy screws, and
hitting the glass, and stop the hole about % of the way through space them about 6" apart.
the top sash. To lock the window in open positions, drill holes
along the sash stiles (vertical pieces) instead.
Block sash channels on sliding Use auxiliary locks on sliding Replace old sash locks on
windows with a narrow board or a windows when a dowel or board won't double-hung windows with keyed
thick dowel. work. Most types can be installed on the devices. Traditional sash locks can be
upper or lower window track. highly vulnerable-especially on old
windows. Be sure to store a key nearby,
for emergency exits.
(continued)

Removing the handles from casement and awning windows Security bars or gates can be installed in ground-floor
keeps intruders from cranking the window open after breaking windows to prevent intruders from gaining entry to your home.
the glass.
I Tips for Securing Sliding Glass Doors
Make a custom lock for your door Drive screws into the upper track Attach a sliding-door lock to the
track, using a thick board and a hinge. to keep the sliding panel from being frame of the sliding panel. Drill a hole for
Cut the board to fit behind the closed pried up and out of the lower track. Use the deadbolt into the upper track. Then
door, then cut it again a few inches sturdy pan-head screws, spaced about drill an additional hole a few inches
from one end. Install a hinge so you every 8", and drive them so their heads away so you can lock the door in an
can flip up the end and keep the door just clear the top of the door. For metal open position.
secure while it's ajar. Attach knobs to door frames, use self-tapping screws
facilitate use. and a low drill speed.

I Tips for Securing Doors
Plywood
shim
Install plywood shims in the gaps between the door Replace short hinge screws with longer screws (3" or 4")
frame and wall studs, to prevent pry-bar attacks. Remove the that extend through the door jamb and into the wall studs. This
casing molding on the inside of the frame and inspect the gap; helps resist door kick-ins. Tighten the screws snug, but avoid
if it's wider than W' , install new plywood shims in the spaces overtightening them, which can pull the frame out of square.
between the original shims. Be sure to shim directly above,
below, and behind the strike plate. Drill pilot holes, and secure
the shims with 10d casing nails.
Add metal door reinforcers to strengthen the areas around Add a heavy-duty latch guard to reinforce the door jamb
locks and prevent kick-ins. Remove the lockset and slip the around the strike plate. For added protection, choose a guard
reinforcer over the door's edge. Be sure to get a reinforcer that with a flange that resists pry-bar attacks. Install the guard with
is the correct thickness for your door. long screws that reach the wall studs.
(continued)

Have lock cylinders re-keyed to ensure that lost or stolen putting a peephole into an exterior door is a quick and
keys can't be used by unwanted visitors. Remove cyl inder, easy security measure. Simply drill a hole at the appropriate
leaving bolt mechanism in door, and take it to a locksmith. height, then screw the two halves of the peephole together.
I How to Install a security Box Strike

1 2 3
Mark the horizontal center of the Drill pilot holes for the faceplate Insert the box strike into the mortise
deadbolt on the door jamb and tape the screws, and bore holes for the box and install the screws inside the box.
box strike template to the jamb, aligning mortise, using the recommended spade Angle the screws slightly toward the
the center marks. Use an awl to mark bit. To chisel the faceplate mortise, center of the wall stud, to increase their
the drilling points, then use a utility make parallel cuts 'Ia" deep, holding holding power. Position the faceplate
knife to score a '1s'-deep line around the the chisel at a 45' angle with the bevel and install the screws.
outside of the template side in. Flip the chisel over, and drive it
downward to remove the material.

I How to Install a Deadbolt Lock
Measure up from the floor or existing lockset to locate the Bore the cylinder hole with a hole saw and drill. To avoid
lock. Its center should be at least 3'12" from the lockset center. splintering the door, drill through one side until the hole saw
Tape the template (supplied with lock) to the door. Use an awl pilot (mandrel) just comes out the other side. Remove the
to mark the center- points of the cylinder and dead bolt holes hole saw, then complete the hole from the opposite side of
on the door. Close the door and use the template to mark the the door.
centerline for the dead bolt hole in the door jamb.
Use a spade bit to bore the dead bolt Insert the dead bolt into the edge Use the centerline mark on the jamb
hole from the edge of the door into hole. Fit the two halves of the lock into to locate the hole for the dead bolt. Bore
the cylinder hole. Be sure to keep the the door, aligning the cylinder tailpiece the hole, then chisel a mortise for the
drill perpendicular to the door edge and connecting screw fittings with the strike plate. Install the strike plate. Or,
while drilling. proper holes in the dead bolt. Secure for greater security, install a security
the two halves together with the box strike, instead of the standard
connecting screws. strike plate.

I Tuning Up Garage Doors
I magine this: You're driving home late at night, it's
pouring outside, and you're shivering because you've
got the Au. Then, you turn into your driveway, punch a
little button, and your garage door opens, a light comes Mineral spirits
on, you pull in, and you're HOM E. You didn't have to Graphite spray lubri cant
get drenched, or lift a door that felt like heavy metal, Garage door weather-stripping
or scream at the heavens for making you so miserable. Level
Thanks to a we ll -maintained garage door and opener, Soft-faced mallet
you escaped a ll of this, and that is a good thing. Penetrating lubri cant
Unfortunately, over time, many good things Toweling
become bad things, especia lly if they aren't Socket wrenches
we ll -ma intained. An overhead garage door is no Lightweight oil
exception. To keep everyth in g running smoothly Pliers
reguires effort on three fronts: the door, the opener, Open-end wrenches
and the opener's e lectron ic safety sensors. Here's what
you need to know to keep a ll three in tiptop shape.
A bit of routine maintenance now and again will help keep your garage door working exactly as it should, rain or shine.

I How to Tune-Up a Garage Door
Begin the tune-up by lubricating the
door tracks, pulleys, and rollers. Use a
lightweight oil, not grease, for this job. The
grease catches too much dust and dirt.
Remove clogged or damaged rollers

2 from the door by loosening the nuts that
hold the roller brackets. The roller will
come with the bracket when the bracket is
pulled free.
Mineral spirits and kerosene are

good solvents for cleaning roller bearings.
Let the bearing sit for a half-hour in
the solvent. Then brush away the
grime build-up with an old paintbrush
or toothbrush.
(continued)

If the rollers are making a lot of noise
4 as they move over the tracks, the tracks

are probably out of alignment. To fix this,
check the tracks for plumb. If they are out
of plumb, the track mounting brackets
must be adjusted.
To adjust out-of-plumb tracks, loosen

all the track mounting brackets (usually
3 or 4 per track) and push the brackets
into alignment.
It's often easier to adjust the brackets
6 by partially loosening the bolts and tapping

the track with a soft-faced mallet. Once
the track is plumb, tighten all the bolts.

7
• 8
Sometimes the door lock bar opens sluggishly because the If a latch needs lubrication, use graphite in powder or liquid
return spring has lost its tension. The only way to fix this is to form. Don't use oil because it attracts dust that will clog the
replace the spring. One end is attached to the body of the lock; lock even more.
the other end hooks onto the lock bar.
Alternative: Sometimes the lock bar

won't lock the door because it won't slide
into its opening on the door track. To fix
this, loosen the guide bracket that holds
the lock bar and move it up or down until
the bar hits the opening.
(continued)

Worn or broken weather stripping
on the bottom edge of the door can let in
a lot of cold air and stiff breezes. Check to
see if this strip is cracked, broken, or has
holes along its edges. If so, remove the old
strip and pull any nails left behind.
Measure the width of your garage door,
11 then buy a piece of weather stripping

to match. These strips are standard
lumber-yard and home center items.
Sometimes they are sold in kit form,
with fasteners included . If not, just nail
the stripping in place with galvanized
roofing nails.
If the chain on your garage door opener

is sagging more than '/2' below the
bottom rail, it can make a lot of noise and
cause drive sprocket wear. Tighten the
chain according to the directions in the
owner's manual.

On openers with a chain, lubricate the entire length of the Test the door's closing force sensitivity and make
chain with lightweight oil. Do not use grease Use the same adjustments at the opener's motor case if needed. Because
lubricant if your opener has a drive screw instead. both the sensitivity and the adjustment mechanism vary
greatly between opener models, you'll have to rely on
your owner's manual for guidance. If you don't have the
owner's manual, you can usually download one from the
manufacturer's website.
15
Check for proper alignment on the safety sensors near the Make sure that the sensors are "talking" to the opener
floor. They should be pointing directly at one another and their properly. Start to close the door, then put your hand down
lenses should be clean of any dirt and grease. between the two sensors. If the door stops immediately and
reverses direction, it's working properly. If it's not, make the
adjustment recommended in the owner's manual. If that
doesn't do the trick, call a professional door installer and don't
use the door until it passes this test.

I Removing Windows & Doors
f your remodeling project requires removing old
Iwindows an d doors, do not start this work until all
preparation work is finished and the interior wall
surfaces and trim have been removed. You wi ll need Uti lity knife
to c lose up the wa ll openings as soon as possible, so Flat pry bar
make sure you have all the necessary tools, framing Screwdriver
lumber, and new window or door units before starting Hammer
the final stages of demolition. Be prepared to finish Reciprocating saw
the work as quickly as possible. Plywood
Windows and doors are removed using the same Masking tape
basic procedures. In many cases, old units can be Screws
salvaged for resale or later use, so use care when
removing them.
Masking tape
to keep windows
Removing windows or doors is a similar process and often easier with a helper. Use care when removing large windows or
patio doors, which can be very heavy.

I How to Remove Doors
1 3
Using a pry bar and hammer, gently Cut away the old caulk between the Use a flat pry bar or a eat's paw to
remove the interior door trim . Save exterior siding and the brick molding on remove the casing nails securing the
the trim to use after the new door the door frame using a utility knife. door jambs to the framing. Cut stubborn
is installed. nails with a reciprocating saw (see
step 2, below). Remove the door from
the opening.
I How to Remove Windows
..
Nailing flange
Carefully pry off the interior trim Cut through the nails holding the Variation: For windows and doors
around the window frame. For window jambs to the framing members attached with nailing flanges, cut or
double-hung windows with sash using a reciprocating saw Place tape pry loose the siding material, then
weights, remove the weights by cutting over the windowpanes to prevent remove the nails holding the unit to the
the cords and pulling the weights from shattering, then remove the window sheathing. See pages 186 to 187 for
the weight pockets near the bottom of unit from the opening. more information on removing siding
the side jambs.

I Installing Prehung Interior Doors
Install prehung interior doors after the framing work
is comp lete and the wallboard has been install ed.
If the rough opening for the door has been framed
accurate ly, installing the door takes about an hour.
Standard prehung doors have 4 '!," -wide jambs
and are sized to fit wall s with 2 X 4 construction
and '12" wa llboard. If you have 2 x 6 construction or
thicker wa ll surface material, you can spec ial-order
a door to match, or you can add jamb extensions to a
standard-sized door (see Tip, next page).
Level Prehung interior door

Hammer Wood sh im s
Handsaw 3d cas ing nails prehung doors save you time and effort during installation
because the jamb is already installed on the door.
I How to Install a Prehung Interior Door

2
Slide the door unit into the framed opening so the edges of Insert pairs of wood shims driven from opposite directions
the jambs are flush with the wall surface and the hinge-side into the gap between the framing members and the hinge-side
jamb is plumb jamb, spaced every 12". Check the hinge-side jamb to make
sure it is still plumb and does not bow.

4
Anchor the hinge-side jamb with 8d casing nails driven Insert pairs of shims in the gap between the framing
through the jamb and shims and into the jack stud. You may members and the latch-side jamb and top jamb, spaced every
want to predrill the nail holes to prevent splitting the shims. 12" . With the door closed, adjust the shims so the gap between
the door edge and jamb is Va" wide. Drive 8d casing nails
through the jambs and shims into the framing members.
Tip ｾ＠
If your walls are built with 2 x 6 studs, you'll need

to extend the jambs by attaching 1"-thick wood strips
to the edges of the jamb after the door is installed.
Cut the shims flush with the wall surface using a handsaw. Use glue and 4d casing nails when attaching jamb
Hold the saw vertically to prevent damage to the door jamb or extensions. Make the strips from the same wood as
wall. Finish the door and install the lockset as directed by the the jamb.
manufacturer. Install trim.

I How to Install a Replacement Window with a Nailing Flange
1 2
Remove the existing window (see page 149), and set the Remove exterior siding around the window area to expose
new window into the rough opening. Center it left to right, the wall sheathing. Use a zip tool to separate vinyl siding
and shim beneath the sill to level it. On the exterior side, for removal or use a pry bar and hammer to remove wood
measure out from the window on all sides, and mark the clapboard. For more on removing exterior surfaces, see
siding for the width of the brick molding you'll install around page 187.
the new window. Extend layout lines to mark where you'll cut
the siding.
3 4
Cover the sill and rough opening framing members with Apply a bead of silicone caulk around the back face of the
self-adhesive, rolled flashing. Apply additional strips of flashing window flange, then set it into the rough opening, centering
behind the siding and up the sill flashing. Finish flashing with it side-to-side in the opening. Tack the window in place by
a strip along the header. The flashing should cover the front driving one roofing nail partway through the top flange. On the
edges and sides of the opening members. interior side, level and plumb the window, using shims to make
any necessary adjustments.

5
Tack the window to the header at one end of the nailing Install a piece of metal drip edge behind the siding and
flange, using a 1" galvanized roofing nail. Drive a roofing nail above the window. Secure it with silicone caulk only.
through the other top corner of the flange to hold the window in
place, then secure the flange all around the window with more
roofing nails. Apply strips of rolled, self-adhesive flashing to cover
the window flanges. Start with a strip that covers the bottom
flange, then cover the side flanges, overlapping the bottom
flashing and extending 8 to 10" above the window. Complete the
flashing with a strip along the top, overlapping the side flashing.
7 8
---
-
Cut and attach brick molding around the window, Use high-quality caulk to fill the gap between the brick
leaving a slight gap between the brick molding and the window molding and the siding. On the interior side, fill gaps between
frame. Use 8d galvanized casing nails driven into pilot holes the window frame and surrounding framing with foam backer
to secure the brick molding to the rough framing. Miter the rod, low-expansion foam, or fiberglass insulation. Install the
corner joints Reinstall the siding in the window installation interior casing.
area, trimming as needed .

I Installing Storm Doors
S torm doo rs are important features for e nergy
effic ie ncy as well as protect ing yo ur entry door.
In ha rsh c limates, storm doors protect the e ntIy
door from driving l"ain or snow. They c rea te a dead
a ir buffe r between th e two doors th at acts like
in sul ation. \Nhen th e screen pane ls a re in place, th e
door provides great ve ntilati on on a hot day. And , they
del ive r added sec urity, es pec ia ll y whe n o utlltted w ith
a lockset an d a dea dbolt lock.
If yo u wa nt to install a new sto rm door or re place
an old one that's seen better days , yo ur Ilrst job is to
go shopp ing. Storm doors co me in many different
sty les to suit just about anyone's design needs. And
they co me in differe nt mate ri als, in c ludin g aluminum ,
vin yl, a nd eve n Ilberglass. (\Nood sto rm doors a re st ill
ava il ab le but th ey must be tr imm ed a nd Ilt by ha nd , as
they're not so ld in pre hung kits. ) Most units feature a
prehung door in a fram e th at is mounted on the e ntry
door cas ing boards. De pen din g on th e model yo u buy,
in sta ll ation in st ru ct ions can vary. Be sure to check the
d irections th at come with yo ur door before sta rtin g
the job.
O nce purely utilitaria n, today's storm doors
can be an important design e le me nt of yo ur home.
Do yo ur resea rch carefu ll y, and c hoose a door that
co mpl e me nts both the e ntly door a nd ot he r trim on
yo u rhom e.

Drill/driver Masking tape
Ta pe measure Hacksaw
Finis h na il s Level
Screwdrive r
Paintbrush
Primer
Paint --
A quality storm door helps seal out cold drafts, keeps rain
and snow off your entry door, and lets a bug-free breeze into
your home when you want one.
154 • T HE CO l\ IPLETE PHOTO GUIDE TO HOl\ IE BEPA IB

I How to Install a Storm Door
1 2
Test-fit the door in the opening. If it is loose, add a shim Install the drip edge molding at the top of the door
to the hinge side of the door. Cut the piece with a circular opening. The directions for the door you have will explain
saw and nail it to the side of the jamb, flush with the front of exactly how to do this. Sometimes it's the first step, like we
the casing. show here; otherwise it's installed after the door is in place.
Measure the height of the opening and cut the hinge Lift the door and push it tightly into the opening. Partially
flange to match this measurement. Use a hacksaw and work drive one mounting screw near the bottom and another near
slowly so the saw won't hop out of the cut and scratch a the top. Check the door for plumb, and when satisfied, drive all
visible area of the hinge. the mounting screws tight to the flange.

I Hanging a New Door in an Old Jamb
f yo u've got a n un sight ly or da maged doo r to repl ace
I but th e jamb and trimwork are in good co nditi on,
th e re's no need to re move th e ja mb s. In stead, buy
T hi s is a project whe re pat ie nce a nd ca reful
sc rib in g will pay divid e nd s in th e e nd. Have a h elpe r
on hand to hold th e doo r in pos iti on as you scribe a nd
a slab dom a nd ha ng it in the existing jamb. It's a n fit the dom in place.
excell e nt way to preserve ex isting moldings a nd trim ,
espec ially if you live in a n old h ome, a nd yo u wo n't
h ave to color-match a new ja mb to its surroundings.
If t he hinges are a lso in good condi t io n, yo u Tools & Materials ｾ＠
ca n re use the m as we ll. T hi s may be pa rt ic ul a rl y
des irable in a hi stori c h ome with ornate hin ges . Mos t Doo r shim s Powe r pl ane or
home cen te rs stock six- pa ne l slab doo rs, or you ca n Tape meas ure ha nd pl a ne
orde r the m in a variety of styles a nd wood types . Fo r Co mpass Ha mm e r
aes th e tic a nd prac ti ca l reaso ns, ch oose a door size as Co mbin ati on square C hi sel
close to th e ori gin al door as poss ibl e. U tility knife Drill/driver
T he process fm hangi ng the doo r in vol ves C irc ul a r saw Hole saw
shimmin g the doo r in to posi ti on in th e ja mb , sc ribing C-cla mps Spade bi t
th e e nd s a nd edges, and trimming or pl aning it to fit th e Self-ce nte ring Slab door
ope ning. You'll also need to chi sel hinge mortises in the d rill bit Hin ge screws
door edge to accom modate the ja mb hin ge pos itions.
Before
--
Installing a new door in an old jamb dramatically updates the curb appeal of your home.

I How to Hang a New Door in an Old Jamb
1
Have a helper hold the new door in place against the jamb Use pieces of colored masking tape to mark the outside
from inside the room. Slide a pair of thick shims under the door of the door along the hinge edge This will help keep the door's
to raise it up slightly off the floor or threshold. Move the shims orientation clear throughout the installation process
in or out until the door's top and side rails are roughly even
with the jamb so it looks balanced in the opening, then make a
mark along the top edge of the door.
Use a pencil compass, set to an opening of 3/, , ', to scribe Lay the door on a sturdy bench or across a pair of
layout lines along both long edges of the door and across the sawhorses with the tape side facing up. Score the top and
top. These lines will create a clear space for the hinges and bottom scribe lines with a utility knife to keep the wood fibers
door swing If the bottom of the door will close over carpet, set from splintering when you cut across the ends.
the dividers for '/2' and scribe the bottom edge. Remove the
door and transfer these scribe lines to the other door face.
(continued)

Trim the door ends with a circular saw equipped with Stand the door on edge and use a power planer or hand
a fine-cutting blade. Run the saw base along a clamped plane to plane down to the edge of the scribe lines. Set the
straightedge with the blade cutting '116 " on the waste side of tool for a fine cut; use a \1,6 " cutting depth for power planing
the layout lines. Check to make sure the blade is set square to and a shallower cutting depth for a hand plane. Try to make
the saw base before cutting. Use a power planer or hand plane each planing pass in long strokes from one end of the door to
to plane the door ends to the layout lines. the other.
Shim the door back into position in the jamb with a helper Use a combination square or one of the hinge leaves to
supporting it from behind. Set the door slightly out from the draw hinge mortise layout lines on the door edge. Score the
doorstop moldings so you can mark the hinge locations on the layout lines with a utility knife.
door face.

Cut shallow hinge leaf mortises in the door edge with a Set the hinges in the door mortises, and drill pilot holes
sharp chisel and hammer. First score the mortise shape with a for the hinge screws. Attach the hinges to the door.
straightedge and utility knife or a chisel, then make a series of
shallow chisel cuts inside the hinge leaf area. Pare away this
waste so the mortise depth is slightly deeper than the hinge
leaf thickness.
12
Hang the door in the jamb by tipping it into place so the top Bore holes for the lockset and bolt using a hole saw and
hinge leaf rests in the top mortise of the jamb. Drive one screw spade bit. If you're reusing the original hardware, measure the
into this mortise. Then set the other leaves into their mortises old door hole sizes and cut matching holes in the new door,
and install the remaining hinge screws. starting with the large lockset hole. For new locksets, use the
manufacturer's template and hole sizing recommendations to
bore the holes. Install the hardware.

I Installing Entry Doors
F ew parts of a hou se have a more dramatic effect
on the way your home is pe rce ived th an th e ma in
en tly door. A lovely, well -mainta in ed en tryway that
a new doo t" heade r that's approved for the new
span di stance.
The America n Craft sman style door with
is tastefully matc hed a rc hitecturally to the hou se side li ghts in stall ed in this project has the look and
ca n utte rl y transform a home's appea ra nce. In fact, texture of a c lass ic wood door, but it is actually c reated
industry studies have sugges ted th at upgra ding a plain from fiber-glass. Today's fiberglass doors are quite
e ntly door to a higher-e nd ently door sys tem ca n co nvinc in g in the ir ability to replicate wood grain ,
pay back mul tiple times in the resale of yo ur hou se. whil e still offering t he durability a nd low- ma inte nan ce
But perhaps more importantl y, depe ndin g on you r of fiberglass.
priorities, it makes a great improvement in how yo u
feel about your hom e. Plus, it usuall y pays benefi ts in
hom e sec uri ty and e ne rgy efficiency as well. Tools & Materials ｾ＠
If yo u are replac ing a single e ntry door with a
double door or a door with a side li ght or sidelights, Tape meas ure Shim s
you will need to e nl arge the door openin g. Be sure to Level Framing na il s
file you r plans wit h your loca l building depa rtm ent Reciprocating saw Fini sh nails
a nd obtain a permit. You'll need to provide tempormy Ca ulk & ca ulk gun Na il set
support from the tim e you remove th e wall stud s in Ha mm er Finishing materials
the new opening until you've in sta ll ed and sec ured
After Before
Replacing an ordinary entry door

with a beautiful new upgrade has an
exceptionally high payback in increased
curb appeal and in perceived home
value, according to industry studies.

I How to Replace an Entry Door
- 2
Remove the old entry door by cutting through the fasteners Frame in the new rough opening for the replacement
driven into the jamb with a reciprocating saw. If the new door door. The instructions that come with the door will recommend
or door system is wider, mark the edges of the larger rough a rough opening size, which is usually sized to create a '12"
opening onto the wall surface. If possible, try to locate the new gap between the door and the studs and header. Patch the
opening so one edge will be against an existing wall stud. Be wall surfaces.
sure to include the thickness of the new framing you'll need to
add when removing the wall coverings.
3 4
Cut metal door dripcap molding to fit the width of the unpack the door unit and set it in the rough opening to
opening and tuck the back edge up behind the wallcovering make sure it fits correctly. Remove it. Make sure the subfloor is
at the top of the door opening. Attach the dripcap with cau lk clean and in good repair, and then apply heavy beads of caulk
only- do not use nails or screws. to the underside of the door sill and to the subfloor in the sill
installation area. Use plenty of caulk.
(continued)

5 6
Set the door sill in the threshold and raise the unit up so it Use a 6-ft. level to make sure the unit is plumb and then
fits cleanly in the opening, with the exterior trim flush against tack it to the rough opening stud on the hinge side, using
the wall sheathing. Press down on the sill to seat it in the caulk pairs of 10d nails driven partway through the casing on the
and wipe up any squeeze-out with a damp rag weatherstripped side of the door (or the sidelight) On single,
hinged doors, drive the nails just above the hinge locations.
Note: Many door installers prefer deck screws over nails when
attaching the jambs. Screws offer more gripping strength and
are easier to adjust, but covering the screw heads is more
difficult than filling nail holes.
Drive wood shims between the jamb and the wall studs to Drive shims between the jamb on the latch side of the unit
create an even gap. Locate the shims directly above the pairs and into the wall stud. only drive the nails part way. Test for
of nails you drove. Doublecheck the door with the level to plumb again and then add shims at nail locations (you may
make sure it is still plumb. need to double-up the shims, as this gap is often wider than
the one on the hinge side). Check to make sure the door jamb
is not bowed.

9 ----------- 10
- -
Drive fin ish nails at all remaining locations, following the Use a nail set to drive the nail heads below the wood surface.
nailing schedule in the manufacturer's installation instructions. Fill the nail holes with wood putty (you'll get the best match if
you apply putty that's tinted to match the stained wood after
the finish is applied). The presence of the wood shims at the
nail locations should prevent the jamb from bowing as you nail.
11 12
Install the lockset, strikeplates, dead bolts or multipoint Apply your door finish if it has not yet been applied. Read
locks, and any other door hardware. If the door finish has the manufacturer's suggestions for finishing very closely and
not been applied, you may want to do so first, but generally follow the suggested sequences. Some manufacturers offer
it makes more sense to install the hardware right away so finish kits that are designed to be perfectly compatible with
the door can be operated and locked. Attach the door sill their doors. Install interior case molding and caulk all the
to the threshold and adjust it as needed, normally using the exterior gaps after the finish dries.
adjustment screws (inset).

I Installing Bifold Doors
B ifo ld d oo l's p rovi de easy access to a c loset wit ho ut
requIring mu ch c lea ra nce fo r ope ning. Mos t
home ce nte rs stock kits that in clude two pairs of
pl'e hi nged doors, a head track, a nd all the necessa ry Ta pe meas ure Sc rewd river
hardwa re a nd faste ne rs. Typ ica ll y, the doo rs in these Level H acksaw
kits have predrill ed h oles for th e pi vo t and guide pos ts. C ircul a r saw Prehin ged bifold doors
Hardwa re kits are also sold se parately for c ustom Straightedge Head track
projects. Th e re are ma ny types of bi fo ld door sty les, (o ptiona l) Mo un t in g ha rd wa re
so be sure to read and fo ll ow t he ma nufacture r's Drill Pa nh ead sc rews
in stru ctions for th e p rodu ct yo u use, Pl a ne Flathead sc rews
A variety of designer bifold doors are available for installation between rooms and closets. They provide the same attractive
appearance as French doors but require much less floor space.

I How to Install Bifold Doors
1 2
Cut the head track to the width of the opening using a Measure and mark each side jamb at the floor for the
hacksaw. Insert the roller mounts into the track, then position anchor bracket so the center of the bracket aligns exactly with
the track in the opening. Fasten it to the header using the center of the head track. Fasten the brackets in place with
panhead screws. flathead screws.
Check the height of the doors in the opening, and trim Fold one pair of doors closed and lift into position, inserting
if necessary. Insert pivot posts into predrilled holes at the the pivot and guide posts into the head track. Slip the bottom
bottoms and tops of the doors. Insert guide posts at the tops of pivot post into the anchor bracket. Repeat for the other pair
the leading doors. Make sure all posts fit snugly. of doors. Close the doors and check alignment along the side
jambs and down the center. If necessary, adjust the top and
bottom pivots following the manufacturer's instructions.

'.
.•
p •
il ｾＧｴ＠ｾＮ＠
I
Exterior
Repairs
In this chapter:
• Inspecting & Repairing a Roof
• Repairing Wood Fascia & Soffits
• Repafring Gutters
• Repairing & Replacing Chimney Caps
• Evafuating Siding & Trim
• Removing Exterior Siding
• Replacing Wall Sheathing
• Repafring Siding
• Repafring Trim
• Identifying Exterior Paint Problems
• Preparing to Pafnt
• Applying Primer & Paint
• Using Paint-spraying Equipment
• Staining Siding
• Repairing Stucco
• Maintaining & Repairing Concrete
• Identifying Problems with Concrete
• Patching Holes
• Caulking Gaps around Masonry
• Filling Cracks
• Repafring Steps
• Miscellaneous Concrete Repairs
• Resurfacing a Concrete Walkway
• Rebuilding Concrete Steps
• Resurfacing a Patio Slab
• Sealing Concrete Floors
• Pafnting Concrete Floors
• Identifying Brick & Block Problems
• Repafring Brick & Block Walls
• Cleaning & Painting Brick & Block
• Repairing a Firebox
• Repairing Stonework
• Replacing Flagstone
• Pressure Washing Masonry & Stonework
• Repafring an Asphalt Driveway
• Maintafning a Deck
• Repafring a Deck
• 167
I Inspecting & Repairing a Roof
roof system is composed of several ･ｬ･ｭ･ｾｴｳ＠ that work
A together to provide three basic, essential fun ctions
for your home: shelter, drainage, and ventilation. TIle roof
covering and fl ashing are designed to shed water, directing Ta pe meas ure Repl ace me nt fl ashing
it to gutters and downspouts. Air intake and outtake Wire brush Re pl ace me nt shingles
vents keep fresh air circulating below the roof sheathing, Aviati on snips Roofin g ce me nt
preventing moisture and heat buildup. Trowel Roofing nail s
\ l\The n your roof syste m deve lops proble ms th at Flat pry bar Double- headed na il s
compromi se its ability to protect your hom e- c rac ked Ha mm e r Rubbe r-gaske t na il s
shingles, in complete ve ntil ation , or da maged Ut ility knife
fl ashing- th e da mage qui ckl y spread s to oth e r parts Ca ulk gun
of yo ur house . Routine inspec tion s a re th e best way to Plywood
make sure the roof co ntinu es to do its job effec tive ly.
Ice dams above entries pose a danger

to everyone entering and leaving
the house. To permanently solve ice
damming problems, like the one shown
here, improve roof venti lation to reduce
attic temperatu res.
Tips for Identifying Roofing Problems ｾ＠
Ice dams occur when melting snow refreezes near the Inspect both the interior and the exterior of the roof
eaves, causing ice to back up under the shingles, where it to spot problems. From inside the attic, check the rafters
melts onto the sheathing and seeps into the house. and sheathing for signs of water damage. symptoms will
appear in the form of streaking or discoloration. A moist
or wet area also signals water damage.

I Common Roofing Problems
Wind, weather, and flying debris can damage shingles Buckled and cupped shingles are usually caused by
The areas along valleys and ridges tend to take the most moisture beneath the shingles. Loosened areas create an
weather-related abuse. Torn, loose, or cracked shingles are entry point for moisture and leave shingles vulnerable to
common in these areas. wind damage.
A sagging ridge might be caused by the weight of too many Dirt and debris attract moisture and decay, which
roofing layers. It might also be the result of a more significant shorten a roof's life. To protect shingles, carefully wash the roof
problem, such as a rotting ridge board or insufficient support once a year, using a pressure washer. Pay particular attention
for the ridge board. to areas where moss and mildew may accumulate.
In damp climates, it's a good idea to nail a zinc strip along Overhanging tree limbs drop debris and provide shade that
the center ridge of a roof. under the ridge caps Minute encourages moss and mildew. To reduce chances of decay,
quantities of zinc wash down the roof each time it rains, killing trim any limbs that overhang the roof.
moss and mildew.
Exterior Repairs • 169

I How to Locate & Evaluate Leaks
If you have an unfinished attic, examine the underside of Water that flows toward a wall can be temporarily
your roof with a flashlight on a rainy day. If you find wetness, diverted to minimize damage. Nail a small block of wood in
discoloration, or other signs of moisture, trace the trail up to the path of the water, and place a bucket underneath to catch
where the water is making its entrance. the drip. On a dry day, drive a nail through the underside of the
roof decking to mark the hole.
If the leak is finding its way to a finished ceiling, take Once you mark the source of a leak from inside,
steps to minimize damage until the leak can be repaired. As measure from that spot to a point that will be visible and
soon as possible, reduce the accumulation of water behind a identifiable from outside the house, such as a chimney, vent
ceiling by poking a small hole in the wallboard or plaster and pipe, or the peak of the roof. Get up on the roof and use that
draining the water. measurement to locate the leak.

I How to Make Emergency Repairs
If your roof is severely damaged, the primary goal is to Cover the damaged area by nailing strips of lath around
prevent additional damage until permanent repairs are made. the edges of a plastic sheet or tarp. Tip: For temporary repairs,
Nail a sheet of plywood to the roof to serve as emergency use double-headed nails, which can be easily removed. Fill nail
cover to keep out the wind and water. holes with roofing cement when the repair is complete.
I How to Make Spot Repairs with Roofing Cement
To reattach a loose shingle, wipe Tack down buckled shingles by Check the joints around flashing,
down the felt paper and the underside cleaning below the buckled area. Fill which are common places for roof leaks
of the shingle. Let each dry, then apply the area with roofing cement, then to occur. Seal any gaps by cleaning out
a liberal coat of roofing cement. Press press the shingle into the cement. and replacing any failed roofing cement.
the shingle down to seat it in the bed Patch cracks and splits in shingles with Tip: Heat softens the roof's surface, and
of cement. roofing cement. cold makes it brittle. If needed, warm
shingles slightly with a hair dryer to
make them easier to work with and less
likely to crack.

I How to Replace Asphalt Shingles
Pull out damaged shingles, starting Remove old nails in and above Install the replacement shingles,
with the uppermost shingle in the the repair area, using a flat pry bar. beginning with the lowest shingle in the
damaged area . Be careful not to Patch damaged felt paper with repair area. Nail above the tab slots,
damage surrounding shingles that still roofing cement. using 7/s" or 1" roofing nails.
are in good condition.
Install all but the top shingle with nails, then apply Slip the last shingle into place, under the overlapping
roofing cement to the underside of the top shingle, above the shingle Lift the shingles immediately above the repair area,
seal line. and nail the top replacement shingle

I How to Replace Wood Shakes & Shingles
To age new shakes and shingles so they match existing split the damaged shakes or shingles, using a hammer
ones, dissolve 1 pound of baking soda in 1 gallon of water. and chisel. Remove the pieces. Slide a hacksaw blade under
Brush the solution onto the shakes or shingles, then place the overlapping shingles and cut the nail heads. pry out the
them in direct sunlight for four to five hours. Rinse them remaining pieces of the shakes or shingles.
thoroughly and let dry. Repeat this process until the color
closely matches the originals.
Gently pry up, but don't remove, the shakes or shingles Cut the shakes or shingles for the top course. Because
above the repair area. Cut new pieces for the lowest course, the top course can't be nailed, use roofing cement to fasten
leaving a 'Is" gap between pieces. Nail replacements in place the pieces in place. Apply a coat of roofing cement where
with ring-shank siding nails. Fill in all but the top course in the the shakes or shingles will sit, then slip them beneath
repair area . the overlapping pieces. Press down to seat them in the
roofing cement.

I How to Patch valley Flashing
Measure the damaged area and Scrub the damaged flashing with Rest the square end of the patch
mark an outline for the patch. Cut a a wire brush, and wipe it clean. Apply on top of the old flashing, and press it
patch wide enough to fit under shingles a heavy bead of roofing cement to firmly to seal the roofing cement joint
on both sides of the repair area, and the back of the patch. Cut a slit in Add roofing cement to the exposed
tapered to a point at one end. Using a the old flashing. Insert the tapered seams. Using a trowel, feather out the
trowel or flat pry bar, carefully break the end of the patch into the slit, and slip cement to create a smooth path for
seal between the damaged flashing and the side edges under the shingles. water flow.
surrounding shingles. Tip: Use the same material for your
patch as the original flashing. When
dissimilar materials are joined,
corrosion accelerates.
I How to Replace vent Flashing
Remove the shingles above and on the sides of the vent Cut the shingles to fit around the neck of the flash ing so they
pipe. Remove the old vent flash ing, using a flat pry bar. Apply a lie flat against the flange. Apply roofing cement to the shingle
heavy, double bead of roofing cement along the bottom edge and flashing joints, and cover any exposed nail heads.
of the flange of the new flashing. Set the new flashing in place
so it covers at least one course of shingles. Nail around the
perimeter of the flange, using rubber-gasket nails.

I How to Replace Step Flashing
Carefully bend up the counterflashing or the siding Cut the new flashing to fit, and apply roofing cement to all
covering the damaged flashing. Cut any roofing cement unexposed edges. Slip the flashing in place, making sure it's
seals, and pull back the shingles. Use a flat pry bar to remove overlapped by the flashing above and overlaps the flashing and
the damaged flashing. Tip: When replacing flashing around shingle below.
masonry such as a chimney, use copper or galvanized steel.
Lime from mortar can corrode aluminum.
Drive one roofing nail through the flashing, at the bottom Reposition the shingles and counterflashing, and seal all
corner, and into the roof deck. Do not fasten the flashing to the joints with roofing cement.
vertical roof element, such as the chimney.

I Repairing Wood Fascia & Soffits
F ascia and soffits add a finished look to your
roof and promote a healthy roof system. A
well -ve ntilated soffit system prevents moisture from
building up under the roof and in the attic.
Most fascia and soffit problems can be corrected
by cutting out sections of damaged material and
replacing them. Joints between fascia boards are
lock-nailed at rafter locations, so you should remove
who le sections of fascia to make accurate bevel
cuts for patches. Soffits can often be left in place
for repairs.
Circular saw Paint-brush

Jigsaw Replacement materials
Drill Nailing strip s
Putty knife 2" and 2 '/," gal vanized
Hammer deck screws
Flat pry bar 4d galvanized cas ing nails
Fascia and soffits close off the eaves area beneath the roof
Na il set Acrylic caulk
overhang. The fascia covers the ends of rafters and rafter
Chise l Primer lookouts, and provides a surface for attaching gutters. Soffits
Cau lk gun Paint are protective panels that span the area between the fascia
and the side of the house.
I How to Repair Wood Fascia
Remove gutters. shingle moldings. Set your circular saw for a 45" bevel, Set the patch board in place. Drill
and any other items mounted on the and cut off the damaged portion of the pilot holes through both fascia boards
fascia. Carefully pry off the damaged fascia board. Reattach the undamaged into the rafter. Drive nails in the holes to
fascia board, using a pry bar. Remove original fascia to the rafters or rafter create a lock-nail joint (inset). Replace
the entire board and all old nails. lookouts, using 2" deck screws. shingle moldings and trim pieces. using
Bevel-cut a patch board to replace the 4d casing nails. Set the nail heads. Prime
damaged section. and paint the new board.

I How to Repair Wood Panel Soffits
1 2
/
- -
In the area where soffits are damaged, remove the support Remove the damaged soffit section , using a pry bar. Cut
moldings that hold the soffits in place along the fascia and nailing strips the same length as the exposed area of the
exterior wall. Drill entry holes, then use a jigsaw to cut out the rafters, and fasten them to the rafters or rafter lookouts at the
damaged soffit area. Tip: Cut soffits as close as possible to the edges of the openings, using 2'12' deck screws.
rafters or rafter lookouts. Finish cuts with a chisel, if necessary
4 .--
Using soffit material similar to the original panel, cut a Attach the replacement panel to the nailing strips, using
replacement piece VB' smaller than the opening. If the new 2" deck screws. If you are not going to paint the entire soffit
panel will be vented, cut the vent openings. after the repair, prime and paint the replacement piece before
installing it.
5 6
./
Reattach the soffit molding, using 4d casing nails. Set the using siliconized acrylic caulk, fill all nail holes, screw
nail heads. holes, and gaps. Smooth out the caulk with a putty knife
until the caulk is even with the surface. Prime and paint the
soffit panels.

I Repairing Gutters
G utte rs pe rform th e importa nt tas k of c ha nn e ling
wa te r away fro m yo ur house . A good gutte r syste m
preve nts damage to your siding, foundati on, a nd
la ndscapin g, an d it help s preve nt water from lea kin g
into yo ur base me nt. \I\lhe n gutte rs fa il , eva lu ate the
type a nd exte nt of da mage to selec t th e best re pa ir
meth od. C lea n your gutters a nd downspouts as ofte n
as necessary to kee p t he syste m work ing effic ie ntl y.
Flat p ry bar C h alk lin e

Hac ksaw \I\lood sc ra ps
Ca ul k gun Rep lace me nt
Pop rivet gun gutte r mate ri a ls
Drill Sili co nized
Ha mme r acryli c ca ul k
Stiff-bri stl ed b rush Roo fin g ce me nt
Pu tty kni fe Meta l fl ashin g
Stee l woo l Sheet- meta l sc rews
Aviati on sni ps or pop rivets
Level G utte r h angers
Pain tbrush Pr im e r a nd pa in t
Trowel G utte r patc h in g kit
Ga rden hose G ut te r guard s Use a trowel to clean leaves, twigs, and other debris out of
the gutters before starting the repairs.
Keep gutters and downspouts clean

so rain falling on the roof is directed well
away from the foundation. Nearly all wet
basement problems are caused by water
collecti ng near the foundation, a situation
that can frequently be traced to clogged
and overflowing gutters and downspouts.

I How to Unclog Gutters
Flush clogged downspouts with Check the slope of the gutters, Place gutter guards over the gutters
water. Wrap a large rag around a garden using a level. Gutters should slope to prevent future clogs.
hose and insert it in the downspout slightly toward the downspouts. Adjust
opening. Arrange the rag so it fills the the hangers, if necessary.
opening, then turn on the water full force.
I How to Rehang Sagging Gutters & Patch Leaks
For sagging gutters, snap a chalk line Reattach hangers every 24", and Use a gutter patching kit to make
on the fascia that follows the correct within 12" of seams. Use new hangers, temporary repairs to a gutter with
slope Remove hangers in and near the if necessary Avoid using the original nail minor damage. Follow manufacturer's
sag. Lift the gutter until it's flush with holes. Fill small holes and seal minor directions. For permanent repairs, see
the chalk line. Tip: A good slope for leaks, using gutter caulk. page 181.
gutters is a ,/, " drop every 10 ft. toward
the downspouts.

I How to Repair Leaky Joints
Drill out the rivets or unfasten the metal screws to Apply caulk to the joining parts, then reassemble the joint.
disassemble the leaky joint. Scrub both parts of the joint with Secure the connection with pop rivets or sheet-metal screws.
a stiff-bristled brush. Clean the damaged area with water, and
allow to dry completely.
I How to Patch Metal Gutters
Clean the area around the damage Apply a Vs"-thick layer of roofing Cut and bend a piece of flashing to
with a stiff-bristled brush. Scrub it with cement evenly over the damage. Spread fit inside the gutter. Bed the patch in the
steel wool or an abrasive pad to loosen the roofing cement a few inches past roofing cement. Feather out the cement
residue, then rinse it with water. the damaged area on all sides. to reduce ridges so it won't cause
significant damming. Tip: To prevent
corrosion, make sure the patch is the
same type of metal as the gutter

I How to Replace a Section of Metal Gutter
Remove gutter hangers in and near Slip spacers between the gutter Cut a new gutter section at least 4"
the damaged area. Insert wood spacers and fascia, near each end of the longer than the damaged section.
in the gutter, near each hanger, before damaged area, so you won't damage
prying. Tip: If the damaged area is more the roof when cutting the gutter. Cut out
than 2 ft. long, replace the entire section the damaged section, using a hacksaw.
with new material.
Clean the cut ends of the old gutter, Secure the gutter patch with pop Reinstall gutter hangers. If
using a wire brush. Caulk the ends, then rivets or sheet-metal screws. Use at necessary, use new hangers, but don't
center the gutter patch over the cutout least three fasteners at each joint. On use old holes. Prime and paint the patch
area and press into the caulk. the inside surfaces of the gutter, caulk to match the existing gutter.
over the heads of the fasteners.

I Repairing & Replacing Chimney Caps
C himney caps unde rgo stress beca use the
te mpe ratures of the cap a nd ch imney flu e
fluctu ate dramaticall y. Use fire -rated sili cone cau lk
to patc h minor cracks. For more exte nsive re pairs,
rea ppl y fresh morta r over the cap, or rep lace the old
cap for a pe rm a nent solution.
Ha mme r Y2" and ';'." pl ywood

Ston e ch isel '!," dowel
Wire brush 1'12" wood sc rews
Dri ll Vegetab le oi l
Float or a commercial
POinting trowel release agent A chimney cap expands and shrinks as temperatures change
Tape meas ure F ire-rated inside and outside the chimney. This often results in cracking
and annual treks up to the roof for repairs. A floating chimney
Ca ulk gun s ilicone cau lk
cap (above) is cast in a form, using mortar or sand-mix
Mortar Fire-rated rope concrete, then placed on the top of the chimney (opposite
Concrete fortifi er or min eral wool page). You can repair a damaged cap by chipping off the
deteriorated sections and adding fresh mortar (below).
I How to Repair a Chimney
carefully break apart and remove the deteriorated Mix a batch of latex-fortified mortar. Trowel an even layer
sections of the chimney cap, using a stone chisel and hammer. of mortar all the way around the chimney cap, following the
Be very careful when chiseling around the flue. slope of the existing cap. Mortar should cover the chimney
from the outside edges of the chimney bricks to the flue.
Smooth out the mortar with a wood float, trying to recreate the
original slope of the chimney cap. Inspect mortar annually.

I How to Cast & Install a Replacement Chimney Cap
Measure the chimney and the chimney flue and build a prepare a stiff (dry) mixture of mortar to cast the cap-for
form from 1j," and %" plywood (form dimensions on opposite average-sized chimneys, two 60-lb. bags of dry mix should
page, top). Attach the form to a plywood base, using 11j," yield enough mortar. Fill the form with mortar. Rest a wood
wood screws to connect all form parts. Glue 'Is" dowels to the float across the edges of the form, and smooth the mortar.
base, 1" inside the form. The dowels will cast a drip edge into Keep angles sharp at the corners. Let the cap cure for at least
the cap. Coat the inside of the form with vegetable oil or a a week, then carefully disassemble the form.
commercial release agent.
Chip off the old mortar cap completely, and clean the top Shift the cap so the gap next to the flue is even on all sides,
of the chimney with a wire brush. With a helper, transport the then fill in the gap with fire-rated rope or mineral wool. Caulk
chimney cap onto the roof and set it directly onto the chimney, over the fill material with a very heavy bead of fire-rated
centered so the overhang is equal on all sides. For the new cap silicone caulk. Also caulk the joint at the underside of the cap.
to function properly, do not bond it to the chimney or the flue. Inspect caulk every other year, and refresh as needed.

I Evaluating Siding & Trim
T he first step in inspecting and eva luatin g siding and
trim is to id en tify the type of material used on the
house. Is it natural wood? Aluminum or vinyl? Once
you determine the material, take a close look at the
problem area and determine the best method to fix
it. If your siding is st ill under warranty, read through
the warranty document before starting any repairs.
Making repairs yourself co uld in va lidate the product
wa rranty. If the siding was professionally installed, you
may wan t to talk to your con tractor abo ut the repairs.
In addition to looking unsightly, small sid ing
problems can escalate into larger and more costly
problems. As soon as you spot any siding damage,
take steps to fix it immed iately, especially if there's a
possibility of water infiltrat ion . Manufacturers cha nge
siding styles frequently, so you may have trouble
buying replacement sid ing. A bit of legwork may
be necessary, or you may find it necessary to settl e
for replacement materials that are a c lose, but not
exact, match.
Check window and door trim for rot, especially on

horizontal surfaces and at joints. Try to make repairs without
removing the trim.
Tips for Inspecting Trim ｾ＠
Inspect decorative trim , like the gingerbread trim Evaluate broad trim pieces, such as the end cap
shown here. If you suspect damage, remove the trim and trim shown above, and make repairs, using the same
make repairs in a workshop. techniques as for siding.

I Common Siding Problems
separated joints can occur in any type of lap siding, but Buckling occurs most frequently in manufactured siding,
they're most common in wood lap. Gaps between VB' and y." when expansion gaps are too small at the points where
thick can be filled with caulk. Gaps 'Is" or wider could mean the siding fits into trim and channels. If possible, move the
that your house has a serious moisture or shifting problem. channels slightly to give the siding more room. If not, remove
Consult a building inspector. the siding, trim the length slightly, then reinstall.
Minor surface damage to metal siding is best left alone in Missing siding, such as cedar shakes that have been blown
most cases-unless the damage has penetrated the surface. away from the wall, should be replaced immediately. Check the
With metal products, cosmetic surface repairs often look surrounding siding to make sure it's secure.
worse than the damage.

I Removing Exterior Siding
lth ough it's som e times poss ible to in sta ll new
A siding over old if the old sidin g is solid a nd firml y
attached to th e h ouse , it's ofte n b ette r to re move th e
sidin g, especia ll y if it's da maged . Ta kin g off the old
siding allows yo u to sta rt wit h a fl at, smoot h surface.
And beca use th e overall thic kn ess of th e s idin g will
rem a in un c hanged, you won 't h ave to add exte nsions
to yo ur w indow and door ja mbs.
T he re's no "right" way to re move s id ing. Eac h
type of siding material is in stall ed differently, and
consequ ently, they have differe nt re moval tec hniques.
A couple of universal rul es do apply, h owever. Start by
re movi ng trim that's pl aced over th e siding, a nd work
from the top down. Siding is usually in stalled from the
botto m up , a nd wo rkin g in the opposite direction makes
re mova l mu ch eas ier. Dete rmin e th e best re mova l
method fo r your projec t based on your type of siding.
Strip one side of the house at a time, the n re-side
that wall before ripping the siding off a nother section.
T hi s minimizes the amoun t of time your bare wa ll s are
exposed to the elements. Take ca re not to damage the
sheathing. If you can't avoid tearing the housewrap, it
ca n easily be replaced, but the sheathing is another story.
\,vhil e th e goal is to re move the s idin g as qui c kl y
as poss ibl e, it's also important to wo rk safely. Take
ca re whe n working around w ind ows so th e siding
does n't crack or brea k th e glass . In ves t th e necessa ry
tim e to protect th e fl owe rs a nd shrubs before sta rtin g
th e tea r-off.
Re nting a dump ste r w ill expedite th e clea nup
process . It's mu ch easie r to di spose of th e siding as
soon as it's re moved rathe r t ha n stac king it up in a n
un sightl y pil e in yo ur ya rd , the n throw in g it away later.
Wh e n you're fini shed with yo ur clea nu p, use a release
magne t to coll ec t the na il s on th e ground .
Ca t's paw H amme r

Flat p ry bar Maso nry-c utting bl ade
Zip tool Maso nry bi t
Drill Aviatio n s nip s
C irc ul ar saw Roofi ng shovel The exterior wall is composed of sid ing, housewrap or felt
Maso nry c hi se l Re lease magnet paper, and sheathing. Remove the siding without disturbing or
damaging the sheathing.

Tips for Removing Siding ｾ＠
Brick molding comes preattached Lap siding is nailed at the top, Shakes and shingles are best
to most wood-frame window and then covered by the next course. pry removed with a roofing shovel. Use
door units. To remove the molding, off the trim at the top of the wall to the shovel to pry the siding away
pry along the outside of the frame to expose the nails in top row. Remove from the wall. Once the siding
avoid marring the exposed parts of the nails using a cat's paw, and work is removed, use the shovel or a
the jambs and molding. your way down the wall. hammer to pullout remaining nails.
Siding shown
cutaway for clarity
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Stucco
I
"
Board and batten siding is Vinyl siding has a locking channel Stucco siding is difficult to remove.
removed by prying off the battens that fits over the nailing strip of the It's usually much easier to apply the
from over the boards. Use a pry bar underlying piece. To remove, use new siding over the stucco than
or cat's paw to remove the nails a zip tool to separate the panels, to remove it. If you're determined
from the boards. and use a flat pry bar or hammer to to take it off, use a cold chisel and
remove the nails. hammer to break it into pieces, and
aviation snips to cut the lath.
Exterior Repa irs • 187

I Replacing Wall Sheathing
fte r re movin g t he old s idin g, inspect th e sheat hi ng
A to make sure it's still in good co ndition. If wa te r
pe netrated b ehind th e siding, th e re's a good cha nce
the sheathin g is warped, rotted , or othe rwise damaged , Ha mm er Shea thing

a nd wi ll need to be re pl aced . Yo u'll onl y need to C ircul ar saw 2x 4
re place th e section of shea thing th at's da maged. Tape meas ure 3" deck sc rews
Befo re c utting into th e wa ll, make sure th e re are no C ha lk lin e 2 '!," dec k sc rews
wires, ca bl es, or pipes un de r the sheathin g. Pry ba r Drill
O lde r homes typ ica ll y have p la nks or p lywood
shea thin g, whil e new homes may have a nonstru c tural
sh ea thing. T he repl ace me nt mater ial does n't have to
be th e sa me mate ri al as the original sh ea thin g, but it
does have to b e th e sa me thi ckness .
Although the sheathing isn 't visible, a smooth, solid sheathing installation is essential to a professional looking siding finish.
188 • THE COI\ IPLETE PHOTO GU IDE TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

I How to Replace Wall Sheathing
Snap chalk lines around the area of damaged sheathing, pry off the damaged sheathing. Remove any remaining
making sure the vertical lines are next to wall studs. Remove nails or staples in the studs. Measure the opening, subtract 1jg"
any nails or staples in your path. Set the depth of the circular from each side, then cut a piece of sheathing to size.
saw blade to cut through the sheathing, but not cut the studs.
4
,. •
Align 2 x 4 nailing strips with the edges of the wall studs. Place the new piece of sheathing in the opening,
Fasten the strips in place, using 3" deck screws. keeping a 1jg" gap on each side to allow for expansion. Attach
the sheathing to the nailing strips and studs, using 2'14' deck
screws driven every 12".

I Repairing Siding
D a mage to s iding is fa irl y co mm on, but fo rtun ate ly,
it's a lso easy to fi x. S ma ll to medium h oles,
cracks, a nd rotted areas ca n be re pa ired w ith
s iding, contact th e ma nu fact ure r O t' t he contrac tor
who in stall ed th e siding to h elp yo u locate matching
materi als a nd parts . If yo u're unabl e to find an exac t
fill e r o r by re pl acin g the damaged sections w ith matc h, re move a sec ti on of o ri gin al s id ing fro m a
matc hin g s idin g. less visibl e area of the hou se, s uc h as the bac k of t he
If yo u ca nn ot find matching s iding for repairs at ga rage, a nd use it for th e pa tc h. Cover the gap in th e
buildin g ce nte rs, check with salvage ya rds or siding less visible area with a close matching siding, where
co ntractors. \"'h e n re pa irin g a luminum or vin yl the mi smatc h will be less noticea bl e.
Av iat ion sni ps C hi se l Stud fi nder 30# fe lt pape r

Ca ulk gun Trowel Pa intbru sh Shea thing
Drill Sc rewdrive rs E poA)' wood fill e r Trim
Flat pry ba r Hacksaw E poxy glue Re pl aceme nt sid in g
Ha mme r C irc ul a r saw Ga lva ni zed ring-s ha nk E nd caps
Straightedge Jigsaw siding na il s \"'ood p reserva tive
Tape meas ure Key hole saw Sili co ni zed Prim e r
Utility kn ife Flat pry ba r ac ryli c caul k Pai nt or stai n
Zip-loc k tool Nail se t Roofin g ce me nt Metal sa nd pape r
Shown cutaway
Vinyl and metal siding panels have a locking J-channel that fits over the bottom of the nailing strip on the underlying piece.
Use a zip-lock tool (inset) to separate panels. Insert the tool at the seam nearest the repair area. Slide it over the J-channel, pulling
outward slightly, to unlock the joint from the siding below.

I How to Repair vinyl Siding
Starting at the seam nearest the damaged area, unlock Insert siding nails in the nailing strip, then position the
interlocking joints, using a ziplock tool. Insert spacers between end of a flat pry bar over each nail head. Drive the nails by
the panels, then remove the fasteners in the damaged siding, tapping on the neck of the pry bar with a hammer. Place
using a flat pry bar. Cut out the damaged area, using aviation a scrap piece of wood between the pry bar and siding to
snips. Cut a replacement piece 4" longer than the open area, avoid damaging the siding. Slip the locking channel on the
and trim 2" off the nailing strip from each end. Slide the piece overlapping piece over the nailing strip of the replacement
into position piece. Tip' If the damaged panel is near a corner, door,
or window, replace the entire panel. This eliminates an
extra seam.
I How to Patch Aluminum Siding

2
=
Cut out the damaged area, using aviation snips. Leave Nail the lower patch in place by driving siding nails through
an exposed area on top of the uppermost piece to act as the nailing flange Apply roofing cement to the back of the top
a bonding surface. Cut a patch 4" larger than the repair piece, then press it into place, slipping the locking channel over
area . Remove the nailing strip. Smooth the edges with the nailing strip of the underlying piece. Caulk the seams.
metal sandpaper
I How to Replace Aluminum End Caps

2
Remove the damaged end cap. If necessary, pry the Trim the nailing tabs off the top replacement cap. Apply
bottom loose, then cut along the top with a hacksaw blade. roofing cement to its back. Slide the cap over the locking
Starting at the bottom, attach the replacement end caps channels of the siding panels. Press the top cap securely
by driving siding nails through the nailing tabs and into the in place.
framing members.

I How to Replace Board & Batten Siding
1 3
Remove the battens over the Cut replacement boards from the Nail the new boards in place, using
damaged boards. Pry out the damaged same type of lumber, allowing a Va" ring-shank siding nails. Replace the
boards in their entirety. Inspect the gap at the side seams. Prime or seal battens and any other trim. Prime and
underlying housewrap, and patch the edges and the back side of the paint or stain the new boards to blend
if necessa ry. replacement boards. Let them dry. with the surrounding siding.
I How to Replace Wood Shakes & Shingles
Split damaged shakes or shingles with a hammer and Cut replacement shakes or shingles to fit, leaving a VB' - to
chisel, and remove them. Insert wood spacers under the 1j,"-wide gap at each side. Coat all sides and edges with wood
shakes or shingles above the repair area, then slip a hacksaw preservative. Slip the patch pieces under the siding above
blade under the top board to cut off any remaining nail heads. the repair area. Drive siding nails near the top of the exposed
area on the patches. Cover nail heads with caulk. Remove
the spacers.

I How to Replace Lap Siding
If the damage is caused by water, locate and repair the Mark the area of siding that needs to be replaced. Make the
leak or other source of the water damage. cutout lines over the center of the framing members on each
side of the repair area, staggering the cuts to offset the joints
Tip· Use an electronic studfinder to locate framing members, or
look for the nail heads.
Insert spacers beneath the board above the repair area. Measure and cut replacement boards to fit, leaving
Make entry cuts at the top of the cutting lines with a keyhole an expansion gap of '18' at each end . Use the old boards as
saw, then saw through the boards and remove them. pry out templates to trace cutouts for fixtures and openings. Use a
any nails or cut off the nail heads, using a hacksaw blade. jigsaw to make the cutouts. Apply wood sealer or primer to the
Patch or replace the sheathing and building paper, if necessary ends and backs of the boards. Let them dry.
Nail the new boards in place with siding nails, starting with Fill expansion joints with caulk (use paintable caulk
the lowest board in the repair area. At each framing member, for painted wood or tinted caulk for stained wood). Prime
drive nails through the bottom of the new board and the top of and paint or stain the replacement boards to match the
the board below. Tip· If you removed the bottom row of siding. surrounding siding.
nail a 1 x 2 starter strip along the bottom of the patch area.

I Repairing Trim
S om e exte riol' trim se rves as deco ration , like
ginge rbrea d and ornate corni ce moldin gs . Oth er
trim , such as brick molding a nd e nd ca ps, works with
sidin g to sea l yo ur hou se from the ele me nts. Dam aged
bri c k mol d in g a nd co rn e r boa rd s sho uld be patc hed
with stock mate rial simil ar to the origina l.
If yo u cannot find matching repl ace me nt parts fo r
decorati ve trim at hom e improve me nt stores, c hec k
sa lvage shops or contac t a c usto m mill worke r.
H a mme r Ca ulk
C hi se l lOd gal vani zed
C irc ular saw cas in g nail s
Na il se t Ga lva ni zed
Pu tty knife ring-sha nk
Utility kni fe siding na il s
Pa intbru sh Sa ndpaper
Flat p ry bar Paint
C aulk gun Building pape r
E poxy wood fi Il e r D rip edge Repair delicate or ornamental trim molding in your
Epo>,y glu e Repl ace me nt trim workshop, whenever possible. You' ll get better resu lts than if
you try repairing it while it's still attached .
Tips for Repairing & Replacing Trim ｾ＠
Reattach loose trim with new ring-shank siding na ils Repair decorative trim molding with epoxy glue or
driven near old nail locations. Fill old nail holes with wood filler. For major repa irs, make you r own repl acement
pa intable caulk, and touch up cau lk an d new na il heads parts, or take th e trim to a custom millwork shop.
with pa int to match the surround ing surface.
194 • T HE COI\ IPLET E PH OTO GUID E TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

I How to Replace Brick Molding
pry off old brick molding around Hold a replacement piece of brick Cut a 3"-wide piece of flashing to fit
windows and doors, using a flat pry bar. molding, slightly longer than the between the jambs, then bend it in half
Remove any old drip edge. Inspect and original piece, across the opening. Mark lengthwise to form the new drip edge
repair the building paper. cutting lines to fit the opening. Cut the (preformed drip edge is also available).
replacement molding at the marks, Slip it between the siding and building
matching any miter cuts. paper, above the door or window Do
not nail the drip edge in place.
Test-fit the replacement piece of brick molding, then Nail the brick molding to the door header, using 10d
apply exterior-grade panel adhesive to the back side. Follow galvanized casing nails. Lock-nail the miter joints, and set all
the manufacturer's directions for allowing the adhesive to set nail heads. Seal joints, and cover nail holes with caulk. Prime
and paint when the caulk dries.

I Identifying Exterior Paint Problems
T wo e ne mi es work aga inst painted surfaces-
moi sture a nd age . A s impl e lea k or a fail ed
vapor barrier inside th e hou se ca n ruin even th e
fine st pa int job. If you notice signs of paint fai lure,
such as bli ste ring or peeling, take act ion to co rrect
th e proble m right away. If the surface da mage is
di scove red in tim e, yo u may be abl e to co rrec t it with
just a litt le bit of touch-up painting.
Eva lu ating the pa inted surfaces of your hou se ca n
h e lp yo u ide ntify proble ms with s iding, trim , roofs,
a nd moisture barriers. Th e pi c tures on th ese two pages
show the most co mmon forms of pa int fa ilure, a nd
how to fix the m. Be sure to fix a ny moi sture proble ms
before re pa inting.
Evaluate exterior painted surfaces every year, starting

with areas sheltered from the sun. Paint failure will appear first
in areas that receive little or no direct sunlight and is a warning
sign that similar problems are developing in neighboring areas.
I Common Forms of Paint Failure
Blistering appears as a bubbled peeling occurs when paint falls away Alligatoring is widespread flaking and
surface. It results from poor preparation in large flakes. It's a sign of persistent cracking, typically seen on surfaces that
or hurried application of primer or paint. moisture problems, generally from have many built-up paint layers It can
The blisters indicate trapped moisture a leak or a failed vapor barrier. If the also be caused by inadequate surface
is trying to force its way through the peeling is localized, scrape and sand preparation or by allowing too little
surface. To fix isolated spots, scrape the damaged areas, then touch up with drying time between coats of primer
and touch up. For widespread damage, primer and paint. If it's widespread, and paint. Remove the old paint, then
remove paint down to bare wood, then remove the old paint down to bare prime and repaint.
apply primer and paint. wood, then apply primer and paint.

J.
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Localized blistering and peeling indicates that moisture. Clearly defined blistering and peeling occurs when a
usually from a leaky roof. gutter system, or interior pipe, is humid room has an insufficient vapor barrier. If there's a clear
trapped under the paint Find and eliminate the leak, then line where an interior wall ends, remove the siding and replace
scrape, prime, and repaint the area. the vapor barrier.
Mildew forms in cracks and in humid areas that receive Rust occurs when moisture penetrates paint on iron or steel.
little direct sunlight Wash mildewed areas with a 1:1 solution Remove the rust and loose paint with a drill and wire brush
of household chlorine bleach and water, or with trisodium attachment, then prime and repaint.
phosphate (TSP).
Bleeding spots occur when nails in siding begin to rust. Efflorescence occurs in masonry when minerals leech
Remove the nails, sand out the rust, then drive in galvanized through the surface, forming a crystalline or powdery layer.
ring-shank nails. Apply metal primer, then paint to blend in with Use a scrub brush and a muriatic acid solution to remove
the siding. efflorescence before priming and painting.

I Preparing to Paint
T he key to an even paint job is to work on a smooth,
clean, chy surface- so preparing the surface is
essential. Generally, the more preparation work you
do, the smoother the final finish will be and the longer
it wi ll last.
For the smoothest finish, sand all the way down
to the bare wood with a power sander. For a less
time-consuming (but rougher) finish, scrape off any
loose pai nt, then spot-sand rough areas. You can use
pressure wash in g to remove some of the fl aking paint,
but by itself, pressure wash ing won 't create a smooth
surface for painting.
Pressure washer \1\1i re-wheel attachment

Scraper Caulk gun
Sander Heat gun
Sanding block 80-, 120-, and ISO-grit
Putty knife sandpaper
Stiff-bristled brush Putty
Wire brush Paintable
Steel woo l sili conized cau lk
The amount of surface preparation you do will largely
Coarse abrasive pad Muriatic acid determine the final appearance of your paint job. Decide how
Drill Sealant much sanding and scraping you're willing to do to obtain a
finish you'll be happy with.
I How to Remove Paint
Use a heat gun to loosen thick layers of old paint. Aim the TO remove large areas of paint on wood lap siding, use
gun at the surface, warm the paint until it starts to bubble, then a siding sander with a disk that's as wide as the reveal on
scrape the paint as soon as it releases. your siding

I How to Prepare Surfaces for Paint
Clean the surface and remove loose paint by pressure Scrape off loose paint, using a paint scraper. Be careful not
washing the house. As you work, direct the water stream to damage the surface by scraping too hard .
downward, and don't get too close to the surface with
the sprayer head. Allow all surfaces to dry thoroughly
before continuing.
Smooth out rough paint with a finishing sander and 80-grit Use detail scrapers to remove loose paint in hard-to-reach
sandpaper. Use sanding blocks and 80- to 120-grit sandpaper areas. Some of these scrapers have interchangeable heads
to sand hard-to-reach areas of trim. Tip: You can make sanding that match common trim profiles.
blocks from dowels, wood scraps, or garden hoses.
Inspect all surfaces for cracks, rot, and other damage. Mark Use a finishing sander with 120-grit sandpaper to sand
affected areas with colored push pins or tape. Fill the holes down repaired areas, ridges, and hard edges left from the
and cracks with epoxy wood filler. scraping process, creating a smooth surface.

I How to Prepare Trim Surfaces for Paint
2
Scuff-sand glossy surfaces on doors, window casings, and Fill cracks in siding and gaps around window and door trim
all surfaces painted with enamel paint. Use a coarse abrasive with paintable siliconized acrylic caulk.
pad or 1SO-grit sandpaper.
I How to Remove Clear Finishes
Pressure-wash stained or unpainted surfaces that have Use a stiff-bristled brush to dislodge any flakes of loosened
been treated with a wood preservative or protectant before surface coating that weren't removed by pressure washing.
recoating them with fresh sealant. Don't use a wire brush on wood surfaces.

I How to Prepare Metal & Masonry for Paint
2
Remove rust and loose paint from metal hardware, Scuff-sand metal siding and trim with medium-coarse
such as railings and ornate trim, using a wire brush. Cover steel wool or a coarse abrasive pad. Wash the surface and let
the surface with metal primer immediately after brushing to dry before priming and painting.
prevent the formation of new rust.
Remove loose mortar, mineral deposits, or paint from Dissolve rust on metal hardware with diluted muriatic
mortar lines in masonry surfaces with a drill and wire-wheel acid solution. When working with muriatic acid, it's important
attachment. Clean broad, flat masonry surfaces with a wire to wear safety equipment. work in a well-ventilated area, and
brush . Correct any minor damage before repainting. follow all manufacturer's directions and precautions.

I Applying Primer & Paint
S c he dul e primin g a nd pa inting tas ks so th at you ,
ca n pa int within two wee ks of priming surfaces , If
more tha n two weeks pass , wash th e surface with soap
a nd wa te r be fore appl yin g th e next coa t.
C hec k the weathe r forecast a nd keep a n eye on
th e sky whil e you work. Damp wea the r or rain within
two h ours of applicati on will ruin a pa int job. Don't
pain t whe n the te mpe rat ure is be low 50° or above
90 °F. Avoid pa intin g on wind y days- it's da nge rous to
be on a ladd e r in high winds, and wind bl ows dirt onto
th e fres h pa int.
Plan each day's work so you ca n follow th e shade.
Prepare, prime, a nd paint one face of the house at a
tim e, and follo w a logical paintin g order. Work from the
top of th e house down to the fo undation , covering an
e ntire section before yo u move th e ladder or scaffo lding.
4" pa intbru sh Prime r

2 )1," or 3" paintbrush House pain t
Paint in a logical order, starting from the top and working
Sash brush Trim pain t your way down . Cover as much surface as you can reach
Scaffolding C lea nup mate ri a ls comfo rtably without moving your ladder or scaffolding. After
Ladd ers the paint or primer dries, touch up any unpainted areas that
were cove red by the ladder or ladder stabilizer.
Tips for Applying Primer & Paint ｾ＠
-
--
........
Use the right primer and paint Plan your painting sequence so Apply primer and paint in the
for each job. Always read the you pai nt the wa lls, doors, and tri m shade or indirect sunlight. Direct sun
manufacturer's recommendations. before painting stairs and porch can dry primers and paints too quickly
floors. This prevents the need to and trap moisture below the surface,
touc h up spills. which leads to blisteri ng and pee ling.

Tips for Selecting Brushes & Rollers ｾ＠
Wall brushes, which are thick, square brushes 3" to 5" Trim and tapered sash brushes, which are 2" to
wide, are designed to carry a lot of paint and distribute it 3" wide, are good for painting doors and trim, and for
widely. Tip: It's good to keep a variety of clean brushes on cutting-in small areas.
hand, including 2W, 3", and 4" flat brushes, 2" and 3" trim
brushes, and tapered sash brushes.
Paint rollers work best for quickly painting smooth Use a 3" roller to paint flat-surfaced trim, such as end
surfaces. Use an 8" or 9" roller sleeve for broad surfaces. caps and corner trim.
Tips for Loading & Distributing Paint ｾ＠
Load your brush with the right amount of paint Hold the brush at a 45 ' angle and apply just enough
for the area you're covering. Use a full load of paint for downward pressure to flex the bristles and squeeze the
broad areas, a moderate load for smaller areas and paint from the brush.
feathering strokes, and a light load when painting or
working around trim.

I How to Use a Paintbrush
Load the brush with a full load of At the end of the stroke, lift the Reload the brush and make a stroke
paint. Starting at one end of the surface, brush without leaving a definite ending from the opposite direction, painting
make a long, smooth stroke until the point. If the paint appears uneven or over the feathered end of the first
paint begins to feather out. Tip: Paint contains heavy brush marks, smooth it stroke to create a smooth, even surface.
color can vary from one can to the next. out without overbrushing. If the junction of the two strokes is
To avoid problems, pour all of your visible, rebrush with a light coat of paint.
paint into one large container and mix Feather out the starting point of the
it thoroughly Pour the mixed paint back second stroke.
into the individual cans and seal them
carefully Stir each can before use.
Tips for Using Paint Rollers ｾ＠
wet the roller nap, then squeeze Cone-shaped rollers work well Doughnut-shaped rollers work
out the excess water. Position a for painting the joints between well for painting the edges of lap
roller screen inside a five-gallon intersecting surfaces. siding and moldings.
bucket. Dip the roller into the paint,
then roll it back and forth across
the roller screen . The roller sleeve
should be full, but not dripping, when
lifted from the bucket.

Tips for Cleaning Painting Tools ｾ＠
Scrape paint from roller Use a spinner tool to remove Comb brushes with the spiked side
covers with the curved side of a paint and solvent from brushes and of a cleaner tool to properly align
cleaner tool. rolier covers. bristles for drying.
I How to Paint Fascia, Soffits & Trim

1
Prime all surfaces to be painted, Paint the soffit panels and trim with Paint any decorative trim near the
and allow ample drying time. Paint a 4" brush. Start by cutting in around top of the house at the same time you
the face of the fascia first, then cut in the edges of the panels, using the paint the soffits and fascia. Use a 2'12'
paint at the bottom edges of the soffit narrow edge of the brush, then feather or 3" paintbrush for broader surfaces,
panels Tip: Fascia and soffits are usually in the broad surfaces of the soffit panels and a sash brush for more intricate
painted the same c%r as the trim. with full loads of paint. Be sure to get trim areas.
good coverage in the grooves.

I How to Paint Siding
Paint the bottom edges of lap siding by holding the Paint the broad faces of the siding boards with a
paintbrush flat against the wall. Paint the bottom edges of 4" brush, using the painting technique shown on page 204.
several siding pieces before returning to paint the faces of the working down from the top of the house, paint as much
same boards. surface as you can reach without leaning beyond the sides
of the ladder.
Paint the siding all the way down to the foundation, On board and batten or vertical panel siding, paint the
working from top to bottom. Shift the ladder or scaffolding, then edges of the battens, or top boards, first. Paint the faces of the
paint the next section. Tip: Paint up to the edges of end caps battens before the sides dry, then use a roller with a %"-nap
and window or door trim that will be painted later. If you're not sleeve to paint the large, broad surfaces between the battens.
planning to paint the trim, mask it off or use a paint shield.
I How to Paint Stucco Walls
using a large paintbrush, paint the foundation with Apply concrete paint to board surfaces with a paint roller
anti-chalking masonry primer, and let it dry. using concrete and a %"-nap sleeve. Use a 3" trim roller or a 3" paintbrush
paint and a 4" brush, cut in the areas around basement for trim.
windows and doors.

I How to Paint Doors, Windows & Trim
1 D
using a sash brush, paint doors in this sequence: beveled edges of raised door For trim , use a trim brush or sash
panels (A), panel faces (8), horizontal rails (C), and vertical stiles (D) brush and a moderate load of paint
to paint the inside edges of door and
window jambs, casings, and brick
molding. Tip: Paint surfaces on the
interior side of the door-stop to match
the interior trim
Mask off the siding-if freshly Paint the faces of door jambs, Paint wood door thresholds and
painted, make sure it's completely dry casings, and brick molding, feathering porch floors with specially formulated
first. Paint the outside edges of casings fresh paint around the previously enamel floor paint.
and brick molding. Work paint all the painted edges.
way into the corners created by the
siding's profile.

I Using Paint-spraying Equipment
S pray equipment can make quick work of painting,
but it sti ll requires the same carefu l preparation
work as traditional brush and roller methods. Part of
it can inject toxins into the blood stream if used
in correctly. Wear the proper safety protection , such
as safety glasses and a respirator, when spray painting
that prep work involves using plastic to comp letely the house.
cover doors , windows, and other areas that you don 't As with other paint app li cation s, pay close
want painted, rather than just taping them off. attention to the weather. Don 't spray if rain is likely,
Spray equipment can be purchased or rented at and don 't spray on windy days, since the wind can
hardware a nd horne improvement stores. There are carry the paint particles away from the siding.
several types and sizes of spray equ ipm ent, including
high-volume low-pressure (HVLP ), airless, a ir-assisted
airiess, and electrostatic enhanced. They all work the
same way- by atom izing paint and directing it to a Tools & Materials ｾ＠
worksurface in a sp ray or fan pattern. For our project,
we used an HVLP sprayer, which we recommend Utility knife Masking tape
because it produces less overspray and more efficient Spray equipment Plastic
paint application than othe r sprayers. Paint Card board
Be sure to read and follow all safety precautions Safety glasses Cheese-cloth
for the spray equipment. Since the paint is under Respirator 5-gallon bucket
a lot of pressure, it can not on Iy tear the skin , but
Paint sprayers allow you to cover large areas of siding and trim in a short amount of time. They also make it easier to paint areas
that are hard to reach with a brush or roller

I How to Paint Using a Paint Sprayer
Remove outside light fixtures, window and door screens, Cover doors, windows, and any other areas you don't
and other detachable items that you don't want painted . want painted, using plastic and masking tape.
3 4
Strain the paint through cheese cloth to remove particles Spray a test pattern of paint on a scrap piece of cardboard.
and debris. Mix the paint together in a 5-gallon bucket. Fill the Adjust the pressure until you reach an even "fan" without any
sprayer container. thick lines along the edge of the spray pattern.
(continued)

5 6
Cut-in around doors and windows with the paint. Spray If you happen to spray an excessive amount of paint in
the paint along each side of the doors and windows, applying an area and it starts to run, stop the sprayer. Use a paintbrush
the paint evenly. to spread out the paint and eliminate the runs.
Hold the spray gun perpendicular to the house, approximately 12" from the wall. Start painting near the top of the wall, close
to a corner. Move your entire arm, rather than just the wrist, in a steady, side-to-side motion . Do not wave your arm in an arc. Start
your arm movement, then start the gun.

Spray the paint in an even motion, being careful not to tilt the gun. As you sweep your arm back and forth, overlap each coat
of paint by 20 to 30 percent, working your way down the wall. When stopping, release the trigger before discontinuing your motion.
I How to Paint Doors Using a Paint Sprayer
Remove the door by taking off the hinges. Remove all Prop up the door so it stands vertically. Starting at the top
hardware from the door, such as handles and locks. If the door of the door, spray on the paint. As you make passes across the
contains glass, you can either tape it off, or allow paint to get door, slightly go past the edges before sweeping back in the
on the glass and then scrape it off with a razor after it's dry. opposite direction. Wait until the paint is completely dry, then
turn the door around and paint the other side.

I Staining Siding
S tain lends co lor to wood siding, but because it is
partially transparent, it also allows the natural beauty
of the wood grain to show through. Water-based stains
are app lied with an acryli c or synthetic brush. Oil-based
stains are usually app li ed with a natural-bristle brush.
Work in small sections at a time. Complete an
entire length of board with out stopping in the middle.
Unlike paint, sta in can darken or leave streaks if you go
back ove r an a rea after it dri es. Save the trim until the
end, then sta in it separately to get an even coverage.
Sta inin g requires the same carefu l preparation
wo rk as painting. The surface must be clean and
dry. Avo id workin g in direct sun light so the sta in
doesn 't dry too quickly. Check manufacturer's
reco mm endation s before sta ining. Some sta in s cannot
be app li ed in temperatures below SO°F.
Paintbrush Cloths
or foam brush Stain
I How to Stain Log Cabin Siding

2
Load the brush with stain. Starting at a corner, move the Wipe away excess stain with a clean cloth. Keep applying
brush across the siding with a long, smooth stroke. Cover stain until you reach the opposite corner or an edge. Once
the entire width of the log with stain, reloading the brush as the top course is stained, go back to the corner and start on
needed, applying stain in the same direction. Tip' Mix the stain the next row of siding, using the same technique. If the run of
thoroughly and often as it's being applied siding is short, such as between windows, apply stain to two
rows at a time. Stain remaining courses the same way.

I How to Stain Shingle Siding
Load the brush with stain . Starting at the top of a wall by a corner, apply stain to Once all of the shingles are stained,
the shingles, using smooth, downward strokes. Wipe off excess stain with a cloth. apply stain to the trim. Move the brush
Cover the face of the shingle and stain the bottom edge before moving on to the next in the same direction as the wood grain,
one. Apply stain to one or two courses at a time, moving across the wall as you go. then wipe away excess with a cloth.
Never stop in the middle of a shingle. When you reach the opposite corner, start over
on the next set of shingles. Stain remaining rows the same way.

I Repairing Stucco
lth ough stucco siding is ve ry dmable , it can be
A damaged, and over time it can crumble or crack.
The directions given below work we ll for patching
sma ll areas less than two sq. ft. For more extens ive
damage, the repair is done in layers, as shown on the
oppos ite page.
Caulk gun Stucco patching

Disposable pai ntbrush compound
Putty knife Bond in g adhesive
Mason's trowel Denatmed alcoho l
Square-end trowe l Metal primer
Hammer Stucco mix
Whisk broom Masonry paint
Wire brush 1'12" roofing nails
Masonry chise l 15# building paper
Aviation snips Self-fmring
H
I
Pry bar metal lath
Drill with masonry bit Masonry cau lk Fill thin cracks in stucco walls with masonry caulk.
Snatching tool Tint Overfill the crack with caulk, and feather until it's flush with the
Metal primer Meta l stop bead stucco. Allow the caulk to set, then paint it to match the stucco.
Masonry caulk stays semiflexible, preventing further cracking.
I How to Patch Small Areas
Remove loose material from the Apply premixed stucco repair Smooth the repair with a putty knife
repair area, using a wire brush. Use compound to the repair area, slightly or trowel, feathering the edges to blend
the brush to clean away rust from any overfilling the hole, using a putty knife or into the surrounding surface. Use a
exposed metal lath, then apply a coat of trowel. Read manufacturer's directions, whisk broom or trowel to duplicate
metal primer to the lath. as drying times vary. the original texture. Let the patch dry
for several days, then touch it up with
masonry paint.

I How to Repair Large Areas
Make a starter hole with a drill and masonry bit, then use To mix your own stucco, combine three parts sand, two
a masonry chisel and hammer to chip away stucco in the parts portland cement, and one part masonry cement Add just
repair area . Note: Wear safety glasses and a particle mask or enough water so the mixture holds its shape when squeezed
respirator when cutting stucco. Cut self-furring metal lath to (inset). Mix only as much as you can use in one hour. Tip:
size and attach it to the sheathing, using roofing nails. Overlap Premixed stucco works well for small jobs, but for large ones,
pieces by 2". If the patch extends to the base of the wall, it's more economical to mix your own.
attach a metal stop bead at the bottom.
Apply a 'Is"-thick layer of stucco Apply a second, smooth layer of Combine finish-coat stucco mix
directly to the metal lath. Push the stucco. Build up the stucco to within with just enough water for the mixture
stucco into the mesh until it fills the gap '/4' of the original surface. Let the patch to hold its shape. Dampen the patch
between the mesh and the sheathing. dry for two days, misting every two to area, then apply the finish coat to match
Score horizontal grooves into the wet four hours. the original surface. Dampen the patch
surface, using a scratching tool. Let the periodically for a week. Let it dry for
stucco dry for two days, misting it with several more days before painting.
water every two to four hours.

I Maintaining & Repairing Concrete
C on crete is o ne of th e most dut"a ble building
mate rials, but it still requi res occasional repair and
ma inte nance. Freezing and thawing, improper fini shing
use of th e bes t repa ir prod uc ts fo r th e job. Spec iall y
formul ated repa ir produ cts are manufactured for
just about eve lY type of co ncrete re pair. Be sure to
tec hni q ues, a poor subbase, or lac k of re inforce me nt rea d th e prod uct-use in for matio n be fore purc has in g
a ll ca n ca use proble ms with con crete . By address ing any p rodu cts; some p rodu cts need to be used in
proble ms as soon as yo u di scover th em, yo u ca n preve nt co mbin ati on with oth ers.
furth er damage that may be diffi cult or imposs ibl e to fix . A good re pa ir ca n outl ast th e rest of the stru cture
Co nc rete re pa irs fa ll in to a wide range, fro m in some cases, but if st ru ctura l dam age has occ urred,
s imple c lea ning a nd sea lin g, to re movin g a nd re pl ac ing re pa iring the co nc rete is o nl y a te mpo rary so lu t ion.
whole sec tio ns. Filling c racks and repa irin g surface By us ing th e right produ cts a nd techniqu es, however,
da mage are th e most co mm on co ncrete repairs. you ca n make cos meti c repa irs th at imp rove the
Another effective repa ir is res urfac ing- cove ring a n appea rance of th e surface a nd kee p damage from
old co ncrete surface with a layer of fresh concrete. It's becoming wo rse .
a good soluti on to spalling, crazing, or popouts- min or Probabl y the most im po rta nt point to re me mbe r
proble ms that affec t the appea rance more th an the whe n repa irin g co nc rete is th at c uring makes repa irs
stru cture. T hese p roble ms ofte n res ul t from in adequ ate las t longer. T hat mea ns coverin g re pa ire d surfaces
preparati on or in correc t fini shing techniqu es. with pl as ti c sh eeting and keeping th e m damp for
As with a ny kind of re pair, the success of the at least a week. In dry, hot wea th er, lift th e pl astic
project de pe nds large ly on good pre pa rati on a nd the occasion ally, and mi st wit h water.
Before After
Good repairs restore both the appearance and the function to fai ling concrete structures and surfaces. Carefu l wo rk can
produce a wel l-blended, successful repair like the one shown above.
216 • T HE CO I\ IPLETE PH OTO GU ID E TO HOI\ IE HE PAIH

I Concrete Repair Products
Concrete repair products include: vinyl-reinforced concrete patch (A) for filling holes, popouts, and larger cracks; hydraulic
cement (B) for repairing foundations, retaining walls, and other damp areas; quick-setting cement (C) for repairing vertical surfaces
and unusual shapes; anchoring cement (D) for setting hardware in concrete; concrete sealing products (E); masonry paint (F)
concrete recoating product (G) for creating a fresh surface on old concrete; joint-filler caulk (H); pour-in crack sealer (I); concrete
cleaner (J); concrete fortifier (K) to strengthen concrete; bonding adhesive (L) to prepare the repair area; and concrete sand mix (M)
for general repairs and resurfacing.
Tips for Disguising Repairs ｾ＠
Add concrete pigment or liquid cement colorto Use masonry paint to cover concrete repairs.
concrete patching compound to create a color that Paint can be used on vertical or horizontal surfaces, but
matches the original concrete. Experiment with different high-traffic surfaces wi ll require more frequent touch-up
mixtures until you find a matching color. Samples should or repainting.
be dry to show the actual colors.

I Identifying Problems with Concrete
T here are two general types of concrete fa ilure:
structural failure, usually resulting from outside forces
like freezing water; and surface dam age, most often
cement. Sut-face prob lems so metimes can be permanently
repaired if the correct produ cts and techniques are used.
More signifi ca nt damage can be patched for cosmetic
ca used by improper finishing techniques or co ncrete purposes and to resist further damage, but the structure
mixtures that do not have the t-ight ratio of water to will eventuall y need to be replaced.
I Common Concrete Problems
Sunken concrete is usually caused by erosion of the Frost heave is common in colder climates. Frozen ground
subbase. Some structures, like sidewalks, can be raised to forces concrete slabs upward, and sections of the slab can pop
repair the subbase, then relaid. A more common (and more up. The best solution is to break off and remove the affected
reliable) solution is to hire a mudjacking contractor to raise the section or sections, repair the subbase, and pour new sections
surface by injecting fresh concrete below the surface. that are set off by isolation joints.
Moisture buildup occurs in concrete structures, like Staining can ruin the appearance of a concrete surface or
foundations and retain ing walls, that are in constant ground structure. Stains can be removed with commercial-grade
contact. To identify the moisture source, tape a piece of foil to concrete cleaner or a variety of other chemicals. For protection
the wall. If moisture collects on the outer surface of the foil, against staining, seal masonry surfaces with clear sealant.
the source likely is condensation, which can be corrected by
installing a dehumidifier. If moisture is not visible on the foil, it is
likely seeping through the wall. Consult a professional mason.
218 • THE CO t\ IPLETE PHOTO GU IDE TO HO t\ IE HEPAIH

Widespread cracks all the way Isolated cracks occur on many popouts can be caused by freezing
through the surface, and other forms concrete building projects. Fill moisture or stress, but very often
of substantial damage, are very difficult small cracks with concrete caulk or they occur because the concrete
to repair effectively. If the damage to crack-filler, and patch large cracks with surface was improperly floated or
the concrete is extensive, remove and vinyl-reinforced patching material. cured, causing the aggregate near the
replace the structure. surface of the concrete to loosen. A
few scattered popouts do not require
attention, but if they are very large or
widespread, you can repair them as you
would repair holes.
Spalling is surface deterioration of concrete. spalling is crazing is widespread hairline cracks, usually caused
caused by overfloating, which draws too much water to the by overfloating or too much portland cement in the concrete.
surface, causing it to weaken and peel off over time. When Clean and seal the surface to help prevent further crazing. For
spalling occurs, it is usually widespread, and the structure may a long-term solution, resurface.
need resurfacing.

I Patching Holes
L arge a nd s ma ll ho les a re treated d iffe re ntl y whe n
repa mng co nc re te. Th e bes t produ ct for fillin g In
small e r h oles (less th an y," dee p) is vinyl-re inforced
co nc rete patc he r, whi c h is ofte n sold in co nve ni e nt Trowels Vegetable oil

qu a rt of ga llon con ta ine rs of dty powde r. Re inforced Drill with masonry- or co mm erc ial
re pair p rodu cts should be applied onl y in layers th at grinding di sc release age nt
are Y2" thi c k or less . C irc ula r saw H ydrauli c ce men t
Fo r dee pe r holes, use sa nd-mix co ncrete wit h a n with masonry- Latex bonding age nt
ac ryli c o r latex fo rt ifie r, whi c h ca n be appli ed in laye rs c utt in g bl ade Vinyl-re in forced
up to 2" thi ck. T hi s material is sold in 60 - or SO- pound Co ld c hi se l patc hin g
bags of dry mix. Ha nd maul co mpo und
Patches in concrete will be more effective if you Paint brush Sa nd-mix
create clea n, backward-angled cuts (page 22 1) around the Sc reed board Co ncrete fo rtifi e r
damaged area, to create a stronger bone!. For extensive Float Plastic sheet ing
cutting of damaged concrete, it's best to score the Sc rap lumber
conc rete first with a circu lar saw equipped with a masonty
blade. Use a chisel and maul to co mplete the job.
Use hydraulic cement or quick-setting cement for repairing holes and chip-outs in vertical surfaces. Because they set up in
just a few minutes, these products can be shaped to fill holes without the need for forms. If the structure is exposed constantly to
moisture, use hydraulic cement.
220 • THE CO t\ IPLETE PHOTO GU IDE TO HOt\ IE HEPAIH

I How to Patch Large Areas
Tip ｾ＠
Mark straight cutting lines around the damaged area, You can enhance the appearance of repaired
then cut with a circular saw equipped with a masonry-cutting vertical surfaces by painting with waterproof
blade. Set the foot of the saw so the cut bevels away from concrete paint once the surface has cured for at
the damage at a 15° angle. Chisel out any remaining concrete least a week. Concrete paint is formulated to resist
within the repair area. Tip: Set the foot of the saw on a thin chalking and efflorescence.
board to protect it from the concrete.
Mix sand-mix concrete with concrete acrylic fortifier, and fill Smooth and feather the repair with a float until the repa ir
the damaged area slightly above the surrounding surface. is even with the surrounding surface. Re-create any surface
finish, like brooming, used on the original surface. Cover
the repair with plastic and protect from traffic for at least
one week.
Exterior Ilel'nirs • 221

I How to Caulk Gaps around Masonry
2
Cracks between a concrete walk and foundation may Caulk around the mud sill, the horizontal wooden plate
result in seepage, leading to a wet basement. Repair cracks where the house rests on the foundation. This area should be
with caulk-type concrete patcher. recaulked periodically to prevent heat loss.
I How to Patch Small Holes
Cut out around the damaged area Apply a thin layer of latex bonding Fill the damaged area with
with a masonry-grinding disc mounted agent. The adhesive will bond with vinyl-reinforced patching compound,
on a portable drill (or use a hammer the damaged surface and create applied in V4 to y," layers. Wait about
and stone chisel). The cuts should bevel a strong bonding surface for the 30 minutes between applications.
about 15' away from the center of the patching compound. Wait until the latex Add layers of the mixture until the
damaged area. Chisel out any loose bonding agent is tacky (no more than compound is packed to just above
concrete with in the repair area. Always 30 minutes) before proceeding to the surface level. Feather the edges smooth,
wear gloves and eye protection. next step. cover the repair with plastic, and protect
from traffic for at least one week.

I How to Patch Concrete Floors
Clean the floor with a vacuum, and remove any loose After the compound has cured fully, use a floor scraper to
or flaking concrete with a masonry chisel and hammer. scrape the patched areas smooth.
Mix a batch of vinyl floor patching compound following
manufacturer's directions. Apply the compound using a
smooth trowel, slightly overfilling the cavity Smooth the patch
flush with the surface.
I How to Apply Floor Leveler

,
2 3
Remove any loose material and Following the manufacturer's Distribute the leveler evenly using a
clean the concrete thoroughly; the instructions, mix the floor leveler gage rake or spreader. Work quickly: the
surface must be free of dust, dirt, with water. The batch should be large leveler begins to harden in 15 minutes.
oils, and paint. Apply an even layer of enough to cover the entire floor area to You can use a trowel to feather the
concrete primer to the entire surface, the desired thickness (up to 1") Pour edges and create a smooth transition
using a long-nap paint roller. Let the the leveler over the floor. with an uncovered area . Let the leveler
primer dry completely. dry for 24 hours.

I Filling Cracks
T he mate rials a nd methods you shou ld use for
repairing cracks in concrete de pe nd on the location
and size of th e crack. For sma ll cracks (less than !/."
wide), yo u ca n use gray-tinted concrete cau lk fm a
qui ck fix. Fo r more pe rm a ne nt so lu tions, use pourab le
crack fill e r or fortifi ed patchin g ce me nts. The patching
cements are polymer co mpounds th at s ignificantl y
increase the bondin g prope rties of cement, and also
a ll ow so me fl ex ibility. Fo r larger cracks on hori zo nta l
surfaces, use fortifi ed sand-mix concrete; for crac ks
on vertica l surfaces, use hydraulic or quick-setting
cement. T horough preparation of th e cracked surface
is esse nti al for crea tin g a good bond ing surface.
Wire brush Latex bonding age nt

Dri ll with wire whee l Vinyl-re inforced
attachme nt patch in g
Ston e chisel compound
Hand ma ul Co ncrete ca ulk Use concrete repair caulk for quick-fix repairs to minor
Paint brush Sand-mix concrete cracks. Although convenient, repair caulk should be viewed
Trowe l Plastic sheet ing only as a short-term solution to improve appearance and help
prevent further damage from water penetration.
Tips for Preparing Cracked Concrete for Repair ｾ＠
Clean loose material from the crack using a wire Chisel out the crack to create a backward-angled cut
brush, or a portable drill with a wire wheel attachment. (wider at the base than at the surface), using a stone
Loose material or debris left in the crack will result in a chisel and hammer. The angled cutout shape prevents the
poor bond and an ineffective repair. repair material from pushing out of the crack.

I How to Repair Small Cracks
prepare the crack for the repair (opposite page), then Mix vinyl-reinforced patching compound, and trowel it
apply a thin layer of latex bonding agent to the entire repair into the crack. Feather the repair with a trowel, so it is even
area, using a paint brush. The latex bonding agent helps keep with the surrounding surface. Cover the surface with plastic
the repair material from loosening or popping out of the crack. and protect it from traffic for at least a week.
Variations for Repairing Large Cracks ｾ＠
.8)lOWD cut
Horizontal surfaces: Prepare the crack (opposite page), Vertical surfaces: Prepare the crack (opposite page).
then pour sand into the crack to within y," of the surface. Mix vinyl-reinforced concrete or hydraulic cement, then
Prepare sand-mix concrete, adding a concrete fortifier, trowel a y,"- to 1(,"-thick layer into the crack until the crack
then trowel the mixture into the crack. Feather until even is slightly overfilled. Feather the material even with the
with the surface, using a trowel. surrounding surface, then let it dry. If the crack is over
y," deep, trowel in consecutive layers. Let each layer dry
before applying another.

I How to Seal Cracks in Concrete Foundation Walls
.' ,
1" ., ;
2
.'
.. "
.,0.
1
J .. .
,
.. ' :
. . ..
. .,.
"
To determine if a foundation crack is stable, you need To repair a stable crack, use a chisel to cut a keyhole cut
to monitor it over the course of several months, particularly that's wider at the base then at the surface, and no more than
over the fall and spring seasons. Draw marks across the crack y," deep. Clean out the crack with a wire brush.
at various points, noting the length as well as its width at
the widest gaps. If the crack moves more than '/'6 ", consult a
building engineer or foundation specialist.
3 4
I '(
-'r
To help seal against moisture, fill the crack with expanding Mix hydraulic cement according to the manufacturer's
insulating foam, working from bottom to top. instructions, then trowel it into the crack, working from the
bottom to top. Apply cement in layers no more than y," thick,
until the patch is slightly higher than the surrounding area.
Feather cement with the trowel until it's even with the surface
and allow to dry thoroughly.

I Repairing Steps
S teps req uire more ma inte na nce a nd repa ir th a n
othe r conc re te stru ctures around the h ouse
beca use heavy use makes th e m more susce ptible to
da mage. Hor izo ntal surfaces on ste ps ca n be treated
us ing th e sa me produ cts a nd tec hniqu es used o n
othe r maso nry surfaces . Fo r ve rti ca l surfaces, use
qui ck-se ttin g ce me nt, a nd sh ape it to fit .
Trowel Vegeta bl e oil

Wire bru sh or comme rc ia l
Pa int brush release age nt
C irc ul ar saw with Latex bo nding age nt
maso nry-c uttin g Vinyl-rei nforce d
blade patc hin g
C hi se l co mpound
Float Qui ck-setting
Edger ceme nt Isolated damage to step surfaces, like the deep popout
Sc rap lumber Pl as tic sh eeting being repaired above, can be fixed to renew your steps. If
damage is extensive, you may need to replace the steps.
Damaged concrete steps are an unsightly and unsafe way to welcome visitors to your home. Repairing cracks as they develop
not on ly keeps the steps in a safer and better looking condition, it prolongs their life.

I How to Replace a Step Corner
Retrieve the broken corner, then clean it and the mating Spread a heavy layer of fortified patching compound
surface with a wire brush. Apply latex bonding agent to both on the surfaces to be joined, then press the broken piece into
surfaces. If you do not have the broken piece, you can rebuild position. Lean a heavy brick or block against the repair until the
the corner with patching compound (below). patching compound sets (about 30 minutes) Cover the repair
with plastic and protect it from traffic for at least one week.
I How to Patch a Step Corner
Clean chipped concrete with a wire Mix patching compound with latex Tape scrap lumber pieces around
brush. Brush the patch area with latex bonding agent, as directed by the the patch as a form. Coat the insides
bonding agent. manufacturer. Apply the mixture to the with vegetable oil or commercial release
patch area, then smooth the surfaces agent so the patch won't adhere to
and round the edges, as necessary, the wood. Remove the wood when the
using a flexible knife or trowel. patch is firm. Cover with plastic and
protect from traffic for at least one week.

I How to Patch Step Treads
Make a cut in the stair tread just outside the damaged Cut a form board the same height as the step riser. Coat
area, using a circular saw with a masonry-cutting blade. one side of the board with vegetable oil or commercial release
Make the cut so it angles toward the back of the step. Make agent to prevent it from bonding with the repair, then press it
a horizontal cut on the riser below the damaged area, then against the riser of the damaged step, and brace it in position
chisel out the area in between the two cuts. with heavy blocks. Make sure the top of the form is flush with
the top of the step tread .
Apply latex bonding agent to the repair area with a clean Smooth the concrete with a float, and let it set for a few
paint brush, wait until the bonding agent is tacky (no more minutes. Round over the front edge of the nose with an edger.
than 30 minutes), then press a stiff mixture of quick-setting Use a trowel to slice off the sides of the patch, so it is flush
cement into the damaged area with a trowel. with the side of the steps. Cover the repair with plastic and
wait a week before allowing traffic on the repaired section.

I Miscellaneous Concrete Repairs
T he re are p le nty of co ncre te prob le ms yo u may
e ncounte r around your house that are not
specifically addressed in many re pair manual s. These
miscellaneous re pairs include such tas ks as patching
contoured objects that have been damaged a nd
repa irin g maso my veneer around th e found ation of
your house. You can adapt basic techniqu es to make
just about a ny type of co ncrete repair. Re me mbe r
to da mpe n concrete s urfaces be fore patching so
th at the moi sture from co ncrete a nd other patch in g
co mpounds is not absorbed into the ex isting surface.
Be sure to follow th e manufac turer's direc tion s for th e
repair produ cts yo u use.
Putty knife Soft-bristle bru sh

Trowel Quic k-setting cement
Hand ma ul Eme ry paper
Ch ise l W ire lath
Concrete slabs that slant toward the house can lead to
W ire bru sh Masonry a nchors foundation damage and a wet basement. Even a level slab near
Aviation snips Co nc rete acryli c fortifie r the foundation can cause problems. Consider asking a concrete
Drill Sand-mix contractor to fix it by mud-jacking, forcing wet concrete
underneath the slab to lift the edge near the foundation.
I How to Repair Shaped Concrete
Scrape all loose material and debris from the damaged Use the trowel or a putty knife to mold the concrete
area, then wipe down with water. Mix quick-setting cement to follow the form of the object being repaired. Smooth the
and trowel it into the area. Work ｱｵｩ｣ｫｬｹｾｹｯｵ＠ only have a few concrete as soon as it sets up. Buff with emery paper to
minutes before concrete sets up. smooth out any ridges after the repair dries.

I How to Repair Masonry Veneer
Chip off the crumbled, loose, or deteriorated veneer Clean up any metal lath in the repair area if it is in good
from the wall, using a cold chisel and maul. Chisel away condition. If not, cut it out with aviation snips. Add new lath
damaged veneer until you have only good, solid surface where needed, using masonry anchors to hold it to the wall.
remaining. Use care to avoid damaging the wall behind the
veneer. Clean the repair area with a wire brush.
Mix fortified sand-mix concrete (or specialty concrete Recreate the surface texture to match the surrounding
blends for wall repair), and trowel it over the lath until it is even area. For our project. we used a soft-bristled brush to stipple
with the surrounding surfaces. the surface. To blend in the repair, add pigment to the sand
mixture or paint the repair area after it dries.

I Resurfacing a Concrete Walkway
C oncrete that has surface damage but is
sti ll structurall y sound can be preserved by
resurfacing- applying a thin layer of new concrete
over the old surface. If the old surface has deep cracks
or extens ive damage , resurfacing will only so lve the
problem temporarily. Because new concrete wi ll bond
better if it is packed down , use a dry, stiff concrete
mixture that can be compacted with a shove l.
Shovel Rubber mallet

Wood float Level
Broom Mortar bag
Circular saw Stakes
Maul 2 x 4 lumber
Drill Vegetable oil
Paint brush or commerc ial
Paint roller and tray release agent
Wheelbarrow 4" wall -board screws
Screed board Sand-mix concrete
Groover Bonding adhesive
Edger Plastic sheets
Resurface concrete that has surface damage, such as
Hose Brick pavers spalling or popouts. Because the new surface will be thin
Bricklayer's trowel Type N mortar (1" to 2"), use sand-mix concrete. If you are having ready-mix
Jointer concrete delivered by a concrete contractor, make sure they
do not use aggregate larger than '/2' in the mixture.
I How to Resurface Using Fresh Concrete
Clean the surface thoroughly. If the surface is flaking or Dig a 6"-wide trench around the surface on all sides to
spalled, scrape it with a spade to dislodge as much loose create room for 2 x 4 forms.
concrete as you can, then sweep the surface clean.

Stake 2 x 4 forms flush against the sides of the concrete Apply a thin layer of bonding adhesive over the entire
slabs, 1" to 2" above the surface (make sure height is even). surface. Follow the directions on the bonding adhesive product
Drive stakes every 3 ft. and at every joint in forms. Mark control carefully. Instructions for similar products may differ slightly
joint locations onto the outside of the forms directly above
existing control joints. Coat the inside edges of the forms with
vegetable oil or commercial release agent.
Mix concrete, using sand-mix concrete. Make the Float the concrete with a wood float, then tool with an
mixture slightly stiffer (drier) than normal concrete. Spread the edger, and cut control joints in the original locations. Recreate
concrete, then press down on the concrete with a shovel or any surface treatment, such as brooming, used on the original
2 x 4 to pack the mixture into the forms. Smooth the surface surface. Let the surface cure for one week, covered with
with a screed board. plastic. Seal the concrete.

I Rebuilding Concrete Steps
D esign ing steps requires some calcu lations and
some trial an d error. As long as th e design meets
safety guidelin es, you can adjust elements such as
the landing depth a nd the dimensions of the steps. Tape measure 2 x 4 lumber
Sketching your plan on paper will make the job eas ier. Sledge hammer Steel rebar grid
Before demolishing your old steps, measure them Shovel Wire
to see if they meet safety gu ide lines. If so, you can use Drill Bolsters
them as a reference for your new steps. If not, start from Reciprocating saw Construction
scratc h so you r new steps do not repeat any design errors. Leve l ad hes ive
For steps with more than two risers , you 11 need Masons string Compactible gravel
to install a handrail. Ask a building in spector about Hand tamper Fill material
other requirements. Mallet Exterior-grade
Concrete 3-,(' plywood
mixing tools 2" deck screws
Jigsaw Isolation board
！ＮＭＡＭＭ｡ｮ､ｾｉＱＮＡｌ
minimum =
ＭｾＡＮＭ
door + 12"
ｾＱ＠ Ri/ height
'/ _
C lamps #3 rebar
tｾ＠
.;:: :
6" - 8"
-
T Tread depth
i
Ruler or
fram in g square
Stakes
Latex cau lk
Float Vegetable oil
ｾ＠ i ｲＭＭＭＭＭＭｾｉ＠ Step edger or commercial
."
>' 10"-12"
01 Broom release agent
of
ｲＭＭＭＭＭＭｯ［ｾ｡ｬｩＭＭＭＭＭＭＭＭＭｾｉ＠
New concrete steps give a fresh, clean appearance to your house. And if your old steps are unstable, replacing them with
concrete steps that have a non-skid surface will create a safer living environment.

I How to Design Steps
Attach a mason's string to the house foundation, Measure down from the string to the bottom of the stake
1" below the bottom of the door threshold. Drive a stake to determine the overall height, or rise, of the steps. Divide
where you want the base of the bottom step to fall. Attach the the overall rise by the estimated number of steps. The rise of
other end of the string to the stake and use a line level to level each step should be between 6" and 8". For example, if the
it. Measure the length of the string-this distance is the overall overall rise is 21" and you plan to build three steps, the rise of
depth, or run, of the steps. each step would be 7" (21 divided by 3), which falls within the
recommended safety range for riser height.
Measure the width of your door and add at least 12"; this Sketch a detailed plan for the steps, keeping these
number is the minimum depth you should plan for the landing guidelines in mind: each step should be 10" to 12" deep, with
area of the steps. The landing depth plus the depth of each a riser height between 6" and 8", and the landing should be
step should fit within the overall run of the steps. If necessary, at least 12" deeper than the swing radius (width) of your door.
you can increase the overall run by moving the stake at Adjust the parts of the steps as needed, but stay within the
the planned base of the steps away from the house, or by given ranges. Creating a final sketch will take time, but it is
increasing the depth of the landing worth doing carefully.

I How to Build Concrete Steps
Remove or demolish existing steps; if the old steps are Dig 12"-wide trenches to the required depth for footings.
concrete, set aside the rubble to use as fill material for the Locate the trenches perpendicular to the foundation, spaced
new steps. Wear protective gear, including eye protection and so the footings will extend 3" beyond the outside edges of the
gloves, when demolishing concrete. steps. Install steel rebar grids for reinforcement. Affix isolation
boards to the foundation wall inside each trench, using a few
dabs of construction adhesive.
Mix the concrete and pour the When bleed water disappears, Let the footings cure for two days,
footings. Level and smooth the concrete insert 12" sections of rebar 6" into the then excavate the area between them
with a screed board. You do not need to concrete, spaced at 12" intervals and to 4" deep. Pour in a 5"-thick layer of
float the surface afterwards. centered side to side. Leave 1 ft. of clear compactible gravel subbase and tamp
space at each end. until it is level with the footings.

•
Transfer the measurements for the side forms from your working sketch onto %" Cut form boards for the risers to
exterior-grade plywood. Cut out the forms along the cutting lines, using a jigsaw. Save fit between the side forms. Bevel the
time by clamping two pieces of plywood together and cutting both side forms at the bottom edges of the boards when
same time. Add a %" per foot back-to-front slope to the landing part of the form. cutting to create clearance for the float
at the back edges of the steps. Attach
the riser forms to the side forms with
2" deck screws.
Cleats
Cut a 2 x 4 to make a center support for the riser forms. Cut an isolation board and glue it to the house foundation
Use 2" deck screws to attach 2 x 4 cleats to the riser forms, at the back of the project area. Set the form onto the footings,
then attach the support to the cleats. Check to make sure all flush against the isolation board. Add 2 x 4 bracing arms to the
corners are square. sides of the form, attaching them to cleats on the sides and to
stakes driven into the ground
(continued)

Fill the form with clean fill (broken concrete or rubble). Lay pieces of #3 metal rebar on top of the fill at
Stack the fill carefully, keeping it 6" away from the sides, back, 12" intervals, and attach them to bolsters with wire to keep
and top edges of the form. Shovel smaller fragments onto the them from moving when the concrete is poured. Keep rebar
pile to fill the void areas. at least 2" below the top of the forms. Mist the forms and the
rubble with water.
Coat the forms with vegetable oil or a commercial release agent, then Float the steps, working the front
mist them with water so concrete won't stick to the forms. Mix concrete and pour edge of the float underneath the
steps one at a time, beginning at the bottom. Settle and smooth the concrete with beveled edge at the bottom of each
a screed board. Press a piece of #3 rebar 1" down into the "nose" of each tread riser form.
for reinforcement.

Pour concrete into the forms for the remaining steps and Option: For railings with mounting plates that attach to sunken
the landing. Press rebar into the nose of each step. Keep an J-bolts, install the bolts before the concrete sets. Otherwise,
eye on the poured concrete as you work, and stop to float any choose railings with surface-mounted hardware (see step 16)
concrete as soon as the bleed water disappears. that can be attached after the steps are completed.
Once the concrete sets, shape Remove the forms as soon as the surface is firm to the touch, usually within
the steps and landing with a step several hours. Smooth rough edges with a float. Add concrete to fill any holes. If forms
edger. Float the su rface. Sweep are removed later, more patching may be required. Backfill the area around the base
with a stiff-bristled broom for of the steps, and seal the concrete. Install a grippable hand railing that is securely
maximum traction . anchored to the steps and the wall.

I Resurfacing a Patio Slab
P ati o til e is most frequ e ntl y applied ove r a con c rete
subbase- e ith e r a n ex istin g conc re te patio , or a
new conc rete slab. A third opti on, whi ch we show you
on th e followin g pages, is to pour a new til e subbase
ove r a n ex ist in g con c rete patio. This opt ion invo lves
far less wo rk and expe nse th an removing a n old pati o
and pouring a new slab. And it e nsures that your new
t il ed patio will not deve lop th e sa me pro bl e ms that
-- -
may be prese nt in the ex isting co nc rete surface .
See th e following ph otographs to he lp you
de te rmin e th e bes t me th od for preparing your existing
co nc re te pati o sla b. To res urface a co ncrete s id ewa lk,
see pages 232 to 233 .

New subbase
Bas ic ha nd too ls Co ncrete edge r

Sh ove l Ut ility knife
M a ul Ma rgin trowel
Straightedge 30# building pa pe r
Aviat ion sni ps Pl as ti c sheet in g Old patio
M ason ry h oe 2 x 4 and 2 x 2 lumber
M ortar box 2Y2" and 3" deck sc rews
H a nd ta mpe r 'Is" stu cco lath
Magnes ium fl oa t Roofin g ce me nt
I How to Install a Subbase for Patio Tile

2
Dig a trench at least 6" w ide, and no more than 4" deep, Adjust the form height: set stucco lath on the surface, then
around the patio to create room for 2 x 4 forms. Clean dirt and set a 2 x 2 spacer on top of the lath (their comb ined thickness
debris from the exposed sides of the patio. Cut and fit 2 x 4 equals the th ickness of the subbase). Adjust the form boards
frames around the patio, joining the ends with 3" deck screws. so the tops are level with the 2 x 2, and screw the stakes to
Cut wood stakes from 2 x 4s and drive them next to the forms, the fo rms with 2'12' deck screws.
at 2-ft. intervals.
240 • T HE COI\ IPLETE PH OTO GU ID E TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

4
Remove the 2 x 2 spacers and stucco lath, then lay Lay strips of stucco lath over the building-paper
strips of 30# building paper over the patio surface, overlapping bond-breaker, overlapping seams by 1". Keep the lath 1" away
seams by 6", to create a bond-breaker for the new surface. from forms and the wall. Use aviation snips to cut the stucco
Crease the building paper at the edges and corners, making lath (wear heavy gloves when handling metal)
sure the paper extends past the tops of the forms. Make a
small cut in the paper at each corner for easier folding.
5 r I
Build temporary 2 x 2 forms to divide the project into working sections and Mix dry floor-mix concrete with
provide rests for the screed board used to level and smooth the fresh concrete. Make water in a mortar box, blending with
the sections narrow enough that you can reach across the entire section (3-ft. to 4-ft. a masonry hoe, according to the
sections are comfortable for most people). Screw the ends of the 2 x 2s to the form manufacturer's directions, or use a
boards so the tops are level. power mixer.
(continued)

7
Note: The mixture should be very dry Fill one working section with floor-mix concrete, up to the tops of the forms.
when prepared so it can be pressed Tamp the concrete thoroughly with a lightweight tamper to help force it into the voids
down into the voids in the stucco lath in the lath and into corners. The lightweight tamper shown above is made from a
with a tamper. 12" x 12" piece of '1/ plywood, with a 2 x 4 handle attached.
Level off the surface of the concrete by dragging a Use a magnesium float to smooth the surface of the
straight 2 x 4 screed board across the top, with the ends concrete. Applying very light pressure, move the float back and
riding on the forms. Move the 2 x 4 in a sawing motion as you forth in an arching motion, tipping the lead edge up slightly to
progress, creating a level surface and filling any voids in the avoid gouging the surface.
concrete. If voids or hollows remain, add more concrete and
smooth it off

Pour and smooth out the next working section , repeating steps 7 to 9. After Let the concrete dry until pressing
floating this section, remove the 2 x 2 temporary form between the two sections. Fill the surface with your finger does not
the void left behind with fresh concrete. Float the fresh concrete with the magnesium leave a mark. Cut contours around all
float until the concrete is smooth and level and blends into the working section on edges of the subbase with a concrete
each side. Pour and finish the remaining working sections one at a time, using the edger Tip the lead edge of the edger
same techniques. up slightly to avoid gouging the surface.
Smooth out any marks left by the edger
using a float.
12 13
--
---
Cover the concrete with sheets of plastic, and cure Trim off the building paper around the sides of the patio
for at least three days (see manufacturer's directions for using a utility knife. Apply roofing cement to the exposed sides
recommended curing time). weight down the edges of the of the patio, using a trowel or putty knife to fill and seal the
sheeting. After curing is compete, remove the plastic and seam between the old and new surfaces. After the roofing
disassemble and remove the forms. cement dries, shovel dirt or ground cover back into the trench
around the patio

I Sealing Concrete Floors
M ost people are acc usto med to thinking of
co nc rete primarily as a utilitaria n substa nce, but
it ca n also mimic a va ri ety of floorin g types and be a
There are four importa nt I'easons to sea l yo ur
co ncrete flo or: to protec t th e floor from dirt, oil,
grease, chemic als, and stain s; to du st-proof the
colorful and bea utiful addition to any room. Whether surface; to protect the floor fro m abrasion a nd sunl ight
yo ur concrete floor is a practical su rface for the garage expos ure; a nd to repe l wate r a nd protect th e floor from
or a n artistic statement of personal style in your dinin g freeze-thaw dam age.
room , it should be sealed.
Co ncrete is a hard a nd durable building materi a l,
but it is also porous- so it is suscept ibl e to sta ining. Tools & Materials ｾ＠
Many sta ins ca n be removed with the proper cleaner,
but sealing a nd pa inting prevents oil , grease, and oth er Ac id -to le rant Soft-woven
stain s from pe netrating th e surface in the first pl ace; pump sp raye r roller cover
a nd cleanup is a whole lot eas ier. Alkaline-base Paint
Eve n after degreas ing a co ncrete floor, residual neutrali zer Roller tray
grease or oils ca n c reate serio us adhesion proble ms fo r Sealant Wet vac uum
coat in gs of sea lant or paint. To c hec k to see whet he r Rubber Boots High-pressure was her
yo ur floor has been adeq uate ly cleaned , pour a glass Garden hose Paintbrush
of wa ter on th e concrete floor. If it is ready for sealing, with nozzle Respirator
the water will soak into the surface quickly and eve nl y. Ac id -tol era nt bucket Stiff bri stl e broom
If the water beads, yo u may have to c lea n it again. Eye protection Extension ha ndle
Detergent used in combination with a stea m cleaner Paint roller fra me Rubber gloves
ca n remove stubborn stain s better than a clea ner alone.

I How to Seal Concrete Floors
2
Clean and prepare the surface by first sweeping up all Saturate the surface with clean water. The surface
debris. Next, remove all surface muck: mud, wax, and grease. needs to be wet before acid etching. Use this opportunity to
Finally, remove existing paints or coatings. See the chapter on check for any areas where water beads up If water beads on
cleaning concrete for tips on what to use to remove a variety the surface, contaminants still need to be cleaned off with a
of common stains. suitable cleaner or chemical stripper.
Test your acid-tolerant pump sprayer with water to Add the acid etching contents to the water in the
make sure it releases a wide, even mist. Once you have acid-tolerant pump sprayer (or sprinkling can) Follow
the spray nozzle set, check the manufacturer's instructions the directions (and mixing proportions) specified by the
for the etching solution and fill the pump sprayer with the manufacturer. Use caution.
recommended amount of water.
(continued)

Apply the acid solution. using the sprinkling can or Use a stiff bristle broom or scrubber to work the acid
acid-tolerant pump spray unit, evenly apply the diluted acid solution into the concrete. Let the acid sit for 5 to 10 minutes,
solution over the concrete floor. Do not allow acid solution to or as indicated by the manufacturer's directions. A mild
dry at any time during the etching and cleaning process. Etch foaming action indicates that the product is working. If no
small areas at a time, 10 x 10 ft. or smaller. If there is a slope, bubbling or fizzing occurs, it means there is still grease, oil, or
begin on the low side of the slope and work upward. a concrete treatment on the surface that is interfering. If this
occurs, follow steps 7 to 12 and then clean again.
Once the fizzing has stopped, the acid has finished Use a garden hose with a pressure nozzle or, ideally, a
reacting with the alkaline concrete surface and formed pressure washer in conjunction with a stiff bristle broom to
pH-neutral salts. Neutralize any remaining acid with an thoroughly rinse the concrete surface. Rinse the surface 2 to 3
alkaline-base solution. Put a gallon of water in as-galion times. Re-apply the acid (repeat Steps 5, 6, 7, and 8).
bucket and then stir in an alkaline-base neutralizer. Using a stiff
bristle broom, make sure the concrete surface is completely
covered with the solution. Continue to sweep until the fizzing
stops.
246 • THE COI\ IPLETE PHOTO GU ID E TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

If you have any leftover acid you can make it safe for your Use a wet vacuum to clean up the mess. Some sitting acids
septic system by mixing more alkaline solution in the 5-gallon and cleaning solutions can harm local vegetation, damage your
bucket and carefully pouring the acid from the spray unit into drainage system, and are just plain environmentally unfriendly
the bucket until all of the fizzing stops. Check your local disposal regulations for proper disposal of the
neutralized spent acid .
TO check for residue, rub a dark cloth over a small area of Let the concrete dry for at least 24 hours and sweep up
concrete. If any white residue appears, continue the rinsing dust, dirt, and particles leftover from the acid etching process.
process. Check for residue again. Your concrete should now have the consistency of 120-grit
sandpaper and be able to accept concrete sealants.
(continued)

14
I
Once etched, clean, and dry, your concrete is ready for clear Use wide painter's tape to protect walls and then, using
sealer or liquid repellent. Mix the sealer in a bucket with a stir a good quality 4"-wide synthetic bristle paintbrush, coat the
stick. Lay painter's tape down for a testing patch Apply sealer perimeter with sealer.
to this area and allow to dry to ensure desired appearance
Concrete sealers tend to make the surface slick when wet. Add
an anti-skid additive to aid with traction, especially on stairs.
15 16
Use a long-handled paint roller with at least y," nap to Allow surface to dry according to the manufacturer's
apply an even coat to the rest of the surface. Do small sections instructions, usually 8 to 12 hours minimum. Then apply a
at a time (about 2' x 3'). Work in one orientation (e.g., north second coat in the opposite direction to the first coat, so if the
to south) Avoid lap marks by always maintaining a wet edge. first coat was north to south, the second coat should be east
Do not work the area once the coating has partially dried; this to west.
could cause it to lift from the surface.

I Painting Concrete Floors
T hi s boo k in c lud es two ways o f buil d in g new
fl oo rs o n top of co nc re te . But so me tim es it
ju st isn't prac ti ca l to add a new laye r. Maybe yo ur
O nce yo u fi nd t he look yo u' re afte r, the direc ti ons here
will help you crea te it.
Base me nts seldom have adeq uate ve ntilati on for
base me nt ce ilin g is a lready low, a nd yo u need to workin g with pain t. Set up fa ns to kee p the air mov in g.
prese rve as mu c h head room as poss ib le . O r maybe If your co nc rete floo r is o n a po rc h or ga rage, ju st leave
yo u do n't use th e space oft e n e nough to ju sti fy a the doo rs ope n.
full makeove r.
To give co nc rete fl oorin g a face lift, not hing is
s imple r than pa int. Yo u ca n protect the surface from Tools & Materials ｾ＠
dirt a nd sta ins with a clea r sea ler, give it a translu cent
color wash , or cove r it with a n opaq ue fl oo r pa int. ] ust Bl eac h so lution Nylon-bristl e brush
make sure th e s urface is c lea n, dry, leve l, smoo th , a nd C lea ning s up pli es Pa int roll e r a nd tray
free of any grease or wax. Elect ri c fa n(s) Patc hing co mpo und
Befo re yo u choose a surface treatme nt for yo ur Eye p rotec tio n Ro ll er exte nsion ha ndl e
co nc rete fl oor, do so me brows in g. Try yo ur loca l Nylon paint brush Rubber gloves
lib,·a ry, th e We b, and b u ilding supp ly a nd pain t sto res.

I How to Paint Concrete Floors
2
Concrete floors can hold paint made for them, but first the Rinse the surface well with clean water and let it dry.
concrete must be clean and dry. Sweep, vacuum, and mop the
floor thoroughly. To remove any stains, scrub the floor with
solution of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water. Wear eye protection
and rubber gloves.
Following the manufacturer's directions, use a concrete Test the absorption of the concrete by sprinkling some
patching compound to repair any cracks. Make sure the floor water on the floor. If the water is absorbed quickly, paint will
surface does not flake or crumble anywhere. probably bond well. If it beads up, you should probably use the
acid etching method shown on pages 245 to 247. After etching,
let the floor dry at least overnight.
250 • THE CO I\IPLETE PHOTO GU IDE TO HOI\IE HEPAIH

If you expect to use more than one container of paint, using a nylon brush, such as a 2V2-inch sash brush, cut in
open them all and mix them together for a uniform color. You the sides and corners with primer. This creates a sharp, clean
do not need to thin a paint for use on a oor. One exception is edge. Start this way for the top coat as well.
if you use a sprayer that requires thinned paint.
using a roller pad with the nap length recommended by the With a clean roller pad, apply the rst top coat. Make the
manufacturer, apply a primer coat to the surface. Start at the top coat even but not too thick, then let it dry for 24 hours. If
corner farthest away from the door, and back up as you work. you choose to add another top coat, work the rolier in another
Allow the primer to dry for at least 8 hours. direction to cover any thin spots. Let the nal coat dry another
day before you walk on it.

I Identifying Brick & Block Problems
I nspect damaged brick and block structures c lose ly
before you begin any repair work. Acc urately
identifying the nature and cause of the damage is
an important step before choosing the best solutio n
for the problem and ptOeventing the problems from
recurring in the future.
Look for obvious clues, like overgrown tree
roots, or damaged gutters that let water drain onto
masonry surfaces. Also check the slope of the adjacent
landscape; it may need to be regraded to direct water
away from a brick or block wall. Water is the most
common ca use of problems, but major cracks that
recur can be a sign of serious structural problems that
shou ld be examined by an engineer.
Repairs fail when the original source of the problem is not
eliminated prior to making the repair. When a concrete patch
separates, for example, it means that the opposing stresses
causing the crack are still at work on the structure. Find and
correct the cause (often a failing subbase or stress from water
or freezing and thawing), then redo the repair
I Types of Brick & Block Problems
Deteriorated mortar joints are common problems in brick Major structural damage, like the damage to this brick
and block structures- mortar is softer than most bricks or porch, usually requires removal of the existing structure,
blocks and is more prone to damage. Deterioration is not improvements to the subbase, and reconstruction of the
always visible, so probe surrounding joints with a screwdriver structure. Projects of this nature should only be attempted by
to see if they are sound. professional masons.

Damage to concrete blocks often results from repeated Spalling occurs when freezing water or other forces cause
freezing and thawing of moisture trapped in the wall or in the enough directional pressure to fracture a brick. The best
blocks themselves. Instead of replacing the whole block, chip solution is to replace the entire brick (pages 256 to 257) while
out the face of the block and replacing it with a concrete paver eliminating the source of the pressure, if possible. Tip: Chip off
with the same dimensions as the face of the block (pages a piece of the damaged brick to use as a color reference when
258 to 259). looking for a replacement.
Damaged mortar caps on chimneys allow water into the Stains and discoloration can be caused by external sources
flue area, where it can damage the chimney and even the or by minerals leeching to the surface from within the brick or
roof or interior walls. Small-scale damage (top photo) can be block (called efflorescence). If the stain does not wash away
patched with fire-rated silicone caulk. If damage is extensive easily with water, use a cleaning solution.
(bottom photo), repair or replace the mortar cap.

I Repairing Brick & Block Walls
T he most common bric k and bloc k wa ll repa ir is
tuck-pointin g, th e process of replac in g fail ed
mortar joints with fresh mortar. Tuck-pointing is a
appea rance. Persistent moi sture pmblems are most often
caused by impmper grading of soil around the foundation
or a malfunctioning downspout and gutter syste m.
hi ghl y useful re pair technique for a ny homeowner. It Note: The repairs shown in this section feature brick
can be used to re pair wa ll s, c himn eys, brick ve nee r, and block walls. The same techniques may be used for
or a ny other structure whe re the bri cks or blocks are other brick and block structures.
bonded w ith morta r.
Minor cos metic repairs ca n be atte mpted on any
type of wa ll , From free-standing garden wa ll s to bloc k
found ation s. F illing minor cracks with ca ulk or repa ir Tools & Materials ｾ＠
co mpound , and patching popouts or chips are good
exa mpl es of minor repairs. Co nsult a profess ional Raking tool Drill with ma so nry
before a tte mptin g any major repairs, like repla c ing Mortar hawk disc a nd bit
bri ck or blocks, or rebuilding a struc ture- es peciall y if Tuc k-pointe r Stiff-bri stl e brush
you are dealing with a load-bearin g st ructure. Jointing tool Mortar
Basement wa ll s are a frequent trouble area for Bricklayet!s hammer G ravel
homeowners. Constant moi sture and stress created Mason's trowel Scrap of metal fla shing
by ground contact ca n ca use leaks, bowi ng, and paint Mason's or Concrete fortifi e r
failure. Small leaks and cracks ca n be patched with sto ne c hi se l Hep lacement bricks
hyd rauli c ceme nt. Masol1ly-based wate rproofing Pointing trowel or blocks
produ cts can be ap plied to give deteri orated wa ll s a fresh
Make timely repairs to brick and block structures. Tuck-pointing deteriorated mortar joints is a common repair that. like
other types of repair, improves the appearance of the structure or surface and helps prevent further damage.

I How to Tuck-point Mortar Joints
Mortar hawk
Clean out loose or deteriorated mortar to a depth of Mix the mortar, adding concrete fortifier; add tint if
W' to '14' . Use a mortar raking tool (top) first, then switch to necessary. Load mortar onto a mortar hawk, then push it
a masonry chisel and a hammer (bottom) if the mortar is into the horizontal joints with a tuck-pointer Apply mortar in
stubborn. Clear away all loose debris, and dampen the surface 1j,"-thick layers, and let each layer dry for 30 minutes before
with water before applying fresh mortar. applying another. Fill the joints until the mortar is flush with the
face of the brick or block.
Apply the first layer of mortar into the vertical joints by After the final layer of mortar is applied, smooth the
scooping mortar onto the back of a tuck-pointer, and pressing joints with a jointing tool that matches the profile of the old
it into the joint. Work from the top downward. mortar joints Tool the horizontal joints first. Let the mortar
dry until it is crumbly, then brush off the excess mortar with a
stiff-bristle brush.

I How to Replace a Damaged Brick
Score the damaged brick so it will break apart more easily Use a mason's chisel and hammer to break apart the
for removal: use a drill with a masonry-cutting disc to score damaged brick along the scored lines. Rap sharply on
lines along the surface of the brick and in the mortar joints the chisel with the hammer, being careful not to damage
surrounding the brick. surrounding bricks. Tip: Save fragments to use as a color
reference when you shop for replacement bricks.
Chisel out any remaining mortar in the cavity, then brush Mix the mortar for the repa ir, adding concrete fortifier
out debris with a stiff-bristle or wire brush to create a clean to the mixture, and tint if needed to match old mortar. Use
surface for the new mortar. Rinse the surface of the repair area a pointing trowel to apply a 1"-thick layer of mortar at the
with water. bottom and sides of the cavity.

Dampen the replacement brick slightly, then apply mortar scrape away excess mortar with a masonry trowel,
to the ends and top of the brick. Fit the brick into the cavity then smooth the joints with a jointing tool that matches the
and rap it with the handle of the trowel until the face is flush profile of the surrounding mortar joints. Let the mortar set until
with the surrounding bricks. If needed, press additional mortar crumbly, then brush the joints to remove excess mortar.
into the joints with a pointing trowel.
Tips for Removing & Replacing Several Bricks ｾ＠
For walls with extensive damage, remove bricks from For walls with internal damaged areas, remove on ly
the top down, one row at a time, until the entire damaged the damaged section, keeping the upper layers intact
area is removed. Replace bricks using the techniques if they are in good condition . Do not remove more than
shown above and in the section on building with brick fou r adjacent bricks in one area-if the damaged area is
and block. Caution: Do not dismantle load-bearing brick larger, it will requi re temporary support, wh ich is a job for
structures like foundation walls-consult a professional a professional mason.
mason for these repa irs.

I How to Reface a Damaged Concrete Block
WebS (solid)
Drill several holes into the face of the deteriorated block at using the holes as starting points, chip away the face of
the cores (hollow spots) of the block using a drill and masonry the block over the core areas, using a chisel and hammer. Be
bit. Wear protective eye covering when drilling or breaking careful not to damage surrounding blocks and try to leave the
apart concrete. block face intact in front of the solid web areas.
Use a stone chisel to carefully chip out a 2"-deep recess in Mix mortar, then apply a 1"-thick layer to the sides and
the web areas. Mark and score cutting lines 2" back from the bottom of the opening, to the webs, and to the top edge
block face, then chisel away the block in the recess area . Avoid and web locations on the paver (use an 8 x 16" paver to fit
deepening the recess more than 2" because the remaining standard blocks). Press the paver into the cavity, flush with the
web sections provide a bonding surface for the concrete paver surrounding blocks. Add mortar to the joints if needed, then
that will be installed to replace the face of the concrete block. prop a 2 x 4 against the paver until the mortar sets. Finish the
joints with a jointing tool.

I How to Reinforce a Section of Refaced Blocks
Reinforce repair areas spanning two or more adjacent block Prepare a thin mortar mix made from 1 part gravel and
faces. Start by drilling a few holes in a small area over a core in 2 parts dry mortar, then add water. The mixture should be
the block located directly above the repair area. Chip out the thin enough to pour easily, but not soupy. Note: Adding small
block face between the holes with a cold chisel. amounts of gravel increases the strength of the mortar and
increases the yield of the batch.
3 4 ,
Pour the mortar/gravel mixture into the hole above Patch the hole above the repair area by using a pointing
the repair area, using a piece of metal flashing as a funnel. trowel to fill the hole with plain mortar mix. Smooth the surface
Continue mixing and filling the hole until it will not accept any with the pointing trowel. When the mortar resists finger
more mortar. The mortar will dry to form a reinforcing column pressure, finish the joint below the patch with a jointing tool.
that is bonded to the backs of the pavers used to reface
the blocks.

I Cleaning & Painting Brick & Block
C heck brick and block surfaces annua lly and
remove stains or discoloration. Most problems are
easy to correct if they are treated in a timely fashion.
Regular maintenance will help brick and block
structures remain attract ive and durable for a long
time. Refer to the information below for cleaning tips
that address specific staining problems.
Pai nted brick a nd block structures ca n be
spruced up by app lying a fresh coat of paint. As
with any other painting job, thorough surface
preparation and a quality primer are cr iti ca l to a
successful outcome.
Many sta ins can be removed eas il y, using a
commercial brick a nd block detergent, available at
home ce nters, but remember:
• Always test cleaning solutions on a small

inconspicuous part of the surface and evalu ate
the results.
• Some chem ica ls and their fumes may be
harmful. Be sure to follow manufacturer's
safety and use recommendations. Wear
protective c lothin g.
• Soak the surface to be c leaned with water before
you apply any solutions. Th is keeps solutions
Use a pressure washer to clean large brick and block
from soaking in too quickly. Rinse the surface structures. Pressure washers can be rented from most rental
thoroughly after c leaning to wash off any centers. Be sure to obtain detailed operating and safety
remaining clean in g so lution . instructions from the rental agent.
Solvent Solutions for Common Brick & Block Blemishes ｾ＠

• Egg splatter: Dissolve oxalic acid crystals in water, following manufacturer's instructions, in a nonmetallic container.
Brush onto the surface.
• Efflorescence: Scrub surface with a stiff-bristled brush. Use a household cleaning solution for surfaces with
heavy accumulation.
• Iron stains: Spray or brush a solution of oxalic acid crystals dissolved in water, following manufacturer's instructions.
Apply directly to the stain.
• Ivy: Cut vines away from the surface (do not pull them om. Let remaining stems dry up, then scrub them off with a
stiff-bristled brush and household cleaning solution.
• Oil: Apply a paste made of mineral spirits and an inert material like sawdust.
• Paint stains: Remove new paint with a solution of trisodium phosphate (TSP) and water, following manufacturer's
mixing instructions. Old paint can usually be removed with heavy scrubbing or sandblasting.
• Plant growth: Use weed killer according to manufacturer's directions.
• Smoke stains: Scrub surface with household cleanser containing bleach, or use a mixture of ammonia and water.

Tips for Cleaning Brick & Block Surfaces ｾ＠
Mix a paste made from cleaning Use a nylon scraper or a thin block Mask off windows, siding,
solvents (chart, opposite page) and of wood to remove sp illed mortar decorative millwork, and other
talcum or flour. Apply paste directly that has hardened. Avoid using exposed non masonry surfaces
to stain, let it dry, then scrape it off metal scrapers, which can damage before cleaning brick and block.
with a vinyl or plastic scraper masonry su rfaces. Careful masking is essential if you
are using harsh cleaning chemicals,
such as muriatic acid.
Tips for Painting Masonry ｾ＠
Clean mortar joints, using a drill with a wire wheel Apply masonry primer before repainting brick or block
attachment before applying paint. Scrub off loose paint, dirt, walls. Primer helps eliminate stains and prevent problems
mildew, and mineral deposits so the paint will bond better. such as efflorescence.

I Repairing a Firebox
M asonry fireplaces are built according to strict
spec ification s designed to maximize heating
efficiency, smoke exhaustion, and above all, safety.
or c himn ey and s hou ld be reported to a professional.
But yo u can fix most minor problems yourself,
provided you use only materials rated for fireplaces.
The interna l cha mber where the fire burns, known as So me refractOlY mortars are so ld prem ixed so it is not
the firebox, is made wit h heat-res istant firebrick and necessalY to add water. \I\fhi c hever product you se lect,
a specia l mortar that can withstand extremely high make sure it is rated for use with fire brick.
temperatures. For added heat resistance , mortar joints
in firebrick construct ion are sma ll er than with other
types of brick, usually '116" to Y)' thick.
The firebox reflects the fire 's heat into the room, Tools & Materials ｾ＠
and it in su lates the surrounding structure from the
high temperatures that can cause damage. Therefore, Shop light Masonry or stone chisel
in addit ion to having your fireplace and chimney Mirror Mason's trowel
inspected and cleaned regularly, it's a good idea to Flash light Jointing tool
check the firebox for crumb lin g mortar joints and Stiff-bristle brush Fireplace cleaner
loose, cracked, or c hipped bricks. Sponge Fil'ebl'ick
Signs of severe damage or wear in the firebox may Screwdriver Refractory mortar
indicate serious problems elsewhere in the fireplace
A masonry fireplace is a treasured feature in many homes. Most fireplaces are constructed with several different materials,
including two or more types of brick and mortar, concrete, concrete block, metal, and fireclay. Routine maintenance is essential to
the efficiency and longevity of your fireplace, as well as to the safety of your home.

I How to Inspect & Repair a Firebox
Begin your inspection by cleaning the fireplace thoroughly. using a flashlight, inspect the bricks and mortar in the
If the bricks and mortar joints are not clearly visible, use a firebox. Check for loose mortar by lightly scraping the joints
fireplace cleaner and a stiff-bristle brush to remove the soot with a screwdriver. Look for cracks and feel around for any
and creosote buildup. Use a shop light and mirror to view the loose bricks.
upper areas of the firebox and the damper opening.
Remove any loose or damaged bricks, and scrape off the Apply refractory mortar to the new bricks, following the
old mortar, using a masonry or stone chisel. Clean the edges mortar manufacturer's directions. Gently slide the bricks into
of the surrounding brick with a stiff-bristle brush. If you need place until they are flush with the surrounding bricks. Scrape
replacement bricks, bring an original one to a fireplace or brick off excess mortar with a trowel. Use a jointing tool to tool the
supplier to be sure you get a perfect match. mortar joints.

I Repairing Stonework
D a mage to ston ework is typ icall y ca used by fro st
h eave, erosion or dete riora tion of mortar, or by
stones th at have worked out of place . DIy -ston e walls
a re more susce ptible to e rosion a nd poppin g, whil e
morta red wa ll s deve lop crac ks t hat admit wate r, whi c h
ca n freeze and ca use furth er dam age.
Inspect stone structures once a year for signs of
damage and deterioration. Replacing a stone or repainting
crumbling mortar now will save you work in the long run.
A lea nin g ston e column or wa ll probabl y suffers
from erosion or found ation proble ms, a nd ca n be
dangerou s if neglec ted. If you have th e tim e, yo u ca n
tea r dow n a nd reb uild dry-la id structures, but mortared
structures with excess ive lea n need profeSS ion al help.
Maul Mortar bag

C hi se l M aso nry chi sels
Ca mera Wood shim s
S hovel Ca rpet-cove red 2 x 4
H a nd tamper C halk
Leve l Compactibl e grave l
Batter ga uge Replace me nt ston es
Stiff-bristle brush Type M mortar
Trowe ls for mixin g Mortar tint Stones in a wall can become dislodged due to soil
a nd pointing settl ing, erosion, or seasonal freeze-thaw cycles. Make the
necessary repairs before the problem migrates to other areas.
Tips for Replacing Popped Stones ｾ＠
Return a popped stone to its original position . Use a 2 x 4 covered with carpet to avoid damaging
If other stones have settled in its place, drive shims the stone when hammering it into place. After hammering,
between neighboring stones to make room for the make sure a replacement stone hasn't damaged or
popped stone. Be careful not to wedge too far. dislodged the adjoining stones.
264 • T HE COI\ IPLET E PH OTO GUID E TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

I How to Rebuild a Dry-stone Wall Section
Before you start, study the wall and determine how much of capstones are often set in a mortar bed atop the last
it needs to be rebuilt. Plan to dismantle the wall in a "V" shape, course of stone. You may need to chip out the mortar with a
centered on the damaged section. Number each stone and maul and chisel to remove the capstones. Remove the marked
mark its orientation with chalk so you can rebuild it following stones, taking care to check the overall stability of the wall as
the original design. Tip: Photograph the wall, making sure the you work.
markings are visible.
Tip ｾ＠
Rebuild the wall, one course at a time, using replacement

stones only when necessary. Start each course at the ends
and work toward the center. On thick walls, set the face If you 're rebuilding because of erosion, dig a
stones first, then fill in the center with smaller stones. Check trench at least 6" deep under the damaged area, and
your work with a level, and use a batter gauge to maintain fill it with compactible gravel. Tamp the gravel with a
the batter of the wall. If your capstones were mortared, re-Iay hand tamper. This will improve drainage and prevent
them in fresh mortar. Wash off the chalk with water and a water from washing soil out from beneath the wall.
stiff-bristle brush.

Tips for Repairing Mortared Stone Walls ｾ＠
Tint mortar for repair work so it blends with the Use a mortar bag to restore weathered and damaged
existing mortar. Mix several samples of mortar, adding a mortar joints over an entire structure. Remove loose
different amount of tint to each, and allow them to dry mortar (see below) and clean all surfaces with a
thoroughly. Compare each sample to the old mortar, and stiff-bristle brush and water. Dampen the joints before
choose the closest match. tuck-pointing, and cover all of the joints, smoothing and
brushing as necessary.
I How to Repoint Mortar Joints
carefully rake out cracked and crumbling mortar, Mix type M mortar, then dampen the repair surfaces with
stopping when you reach solid mortar. Remove loose mortar clean water. working from the top down, pack mortar into the
and debris with a stiff-bristle brush. Tip: Rake the joints with a crevices, using a pointing trowel. Smooth the mortar when
chisel and maul, or make your own raking tool by placing an it has set up enough to resist light finger pressure. Remove
old screwdriver in a vice and bending the shaft about 450. excess mortar with a stiff-bristle brush.

I How to Replace a Stone in a Mortared Wall
Remove the damaged stone by chiseling out the Brush out the cavity to remove loose mortar and debris. Test
surrounding mortar, using a masonry chisel or a modified the surrounding mortar, and chisel or scrape out any mortar
screwdriver (opposite page). Drive the chisel toward the that isn't firmly bonded.
damaged stone to avoid harming neighboring stones. Once the
stone is out chisel the surfaces inside the cavity as smooth
as possible.
Dry-fit the replacement stone. The stone should be stable Mist the stone and cavity lightly, then apply type M mortar
in the cavity and blend with the rest of the wall. You can mark around the inside of the cavity, using a trowel. Butter all mating
the stone with chalk and cut it to fit but excessive cutting will sides of the replacement stone. Insert the stone and wiggle it
result in a conspicuous repair. forcefully to remove any air pockets. Use a pointing trowel to
pack the mortar solidly around the stone. Smooth the mortar
when it has set up

I Replacing Flagstone
G e ne ra l mainte nance on sto ne Aoo rs can be a little
tri c ki e r than with oth er patio surFaces. Beca use
sto ne is a natural materia l, and often porous, it can be
d iffi c ult to clean and can also reac t adve rse ly to man y Co ld c hi se ls Su pplies for
co mmon c lea ning agents. Stone c hi se l mixing mortar
Hep lac ing a damaged ston e presents th e H a mm e r Mason 's trowe l
c ha ll enges of findin g a new piece th at matc hes th e Shop vac uum Straightedge or leve l
look of the patio, as we ll as c uttin g the rep laceme nt He pl acemen t stone Grout bag
to fit. Extra ca re taken whe n worki ng wi th ston e is
always we ll rewarded by th e uncommon bea uty of
the mate rial.
\"'hen it comes to c lea ning ston e, start w ith
the ge ntl es t treatme nt-wa te r a nd a natural or
synth e ti c fib e r brush (never meta l). IF that wo n't
do th e job, co ns ult your stone s upp li e r for c lea ning
reco mm e ndat ions. All stone is difFe re nt, a nd th e
peop le who wo rk with yo ur parti c ula r variet ies shou ld
kn ow it best. Be warned that some c leane rs ca n stain
so me sto nes. Never use ac id-ba sed solu tion s on any
sto ne. After yo ur pat io has been thoroughly c lea ned,
conside r sea li ng th e su rfa ce to protect aga in st stai ns
and wate r intrusion, using a sea le r reco mm ended by
your supp li er.
Heplacing a da maged Aags to ne in a sa nd set patio
is a n easy project that just takes so me pat ie nce. If
yo u're rep lac ing a large stone that has sp lit in two,
yo u may be ab le to reuse it by shaping th e edges of
th e broke n pi eces to look like ind ividu al sto nes. To
keep a morta red stone Aoo r in top co ndition, rep lace
Replace a sandset flagstone by lifting out the damaged
any loose, c ra cked , or dete ri orated mortar joints. To stone, leveling and tamping the sand bed, and setting in a new
replace a damaged morta red sto ne, co mpl e te a ll of the stone and repacking the sand joints. Trim and dress the new
steps show n here. stone as needed.
I How to Replace a Mortared Flagstone

STEP 1: REMOVE THE MORTAR
I. Usin g a cold chisel or ston e c hi se l a nd
ha mm e r,carefully chip out th e mortar
surrounding the damaged stone. Point the
c h ise l away from neighboring stones to prevent
damagin g th e m.
Note: If you're simply removing damaged mortar,

direct the chisel into the mortar only Stop chiseling once Chisel out the mortar around the damaged stone, being
all loose mortar is removed. ca reful not to strike surrounding stones.
268 • T H E CO I\ IPLETE PHOTO GU I DE TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

STEP 2: REMOVE THE DAMAGED STONE STEP 3: FIT THE NEW STONE
1. VJorking carefully to avoid cracking ne ighboring 1. Position the replacement stone over the
stones or mortar, break up the damaged sto ne cavity, and mark any c uts needed to fit it. When
with a ha mm er a nd c hi se l. Direct the c hi se l into the new sto ne is in sta ll ed , the size of the mo rta l'
th e dam aged stone a nd away from h ealth y a reas . joints should roughly match the surroundin g joints
Strike sharply, but avoid heavy blows that shake for an in co nsp ic uous repair.
the ge nera l patio su rface. 2. Trim a nd/or dress the new sto ne as needed.
2. Once the sto ne is t'e moved, c hi se l out the 3. Test-fit the new ston e in the cav ity. Make sure
remaining mortar bed, us in g the same ca re to the cavity is deep e no ugh to accom mod ate a new
preve nt furth e r dam age . y," -thick mortar bed so the re place me nt ston e will
sit level with th e surrounding ston es .
STEP 4: SET THE NEW STONE

1. Vacuum th e cavity thoroughly with a shop vac uum
to remove all du st a nd de bri s.
2. Mix a batch of mortar, usin g the sa me type used
on the original in sta llation. Mist the cavity w ith
wa te r, th e n sprea d an eve n la yer of morta r, about
'/," thi c k, using a small mason 's trowel.
3. Se t th e replace ment ston e and press down
firml y to bed it into the mortar. C hec k w ith a
straightedge to make sme the sto ne is roughl y
level with the ne ighborin g surfaces. Make a ny
necessa lY adjustments to leve l the sto ne, Let the
morta r dry for at leas t 24 homs.
4. Mix a batch of mortar for the new mortar joints.
If desired, add tint to matc h the old mortar.
(Experime nt wit h s ma ll sa mpl e batc hes of morta r
a nd tint a nd le t the m dry to de termine th e bes t
formula. ) Mist the empty joints aro und th e
Break up and remove the damaged stone in pieces, then re place me nt sto ne , then fill a nd shape the joints.
clean out the old mortar bed.
Mark the replacement stone so it will fit into the cavity with Set a straightedge across the top of the new stone to make
the proper spacing for mortar joints. sure it is even with the neighboring stones.

I Pressure Washing Masonry & Stonework
T o clean the masonry and stonework surfaces
around the ou tsi de of your horne , there is nothing
that works faster or more effectively than a pressure
stains. But the easiest way to contro l the c leaning is to
simply adjust the distance between the nozzle and the
surface-move the nozzle back to reduce the pressure;
washer. A typical residential -grade unit can be as move the nozz le closer to intensify it.
much as 50 times more powerful than a standa rd To successfu ll y c lean any masonry or stone
garden hose, whi le using up to 80% less water. surface using a pressure washer, follow these tips:
A pressure washer comprises an engin e to
generate power, a pump to force water supp li ed from a • When clean ing a new surface, start in a n
garden hose through a high-pressure hose, and a nozzle inconspicuous area, with a wide spray pattern
to accele rate the water stream leaving the system. This and the nozzl e 4- to 5-ft. from th e surface, Move
results in a high-pressure water jet ranging from 500 to closer to the surface until the desired effect
4000 PSI (pounds per square in ch) . is ach ieved.
But PSI only does not account for a pressure • Keep the nozz le in constant motion, spray in g at
washers cleaning power. Gallons per minute (GPM ) a steady speed with long, even strokes to ensure
dictates the spray's abi li ty to rinse away loosened dirt consistent results.
and grime from th e area; a pt'essure washer with a higher • Ma intain a cons istent distance between the nozzle
GPM cleans faster than a lower-flow unit. For general and the cleaning surface.
clean ing around your outdoor home, a pressure washer • When clean ing heavily soi led or sta in ed surfaces,
around 2500 PSI and 2.5 GPM is more than sufficient. use cleaning detergents formulated for pressure
Pressure wash ing is quite simpl e: firm ly grasp washers. Always rinse the surface before
the spray wand with both hands, depress the trigger applying the detergent. On vertical surfaces,
and move the nozzle across the surface to be cleaned. apply detergent from bottom to top, and rinse
Although different surfaces require different spray from top to bottom. Always follow the detergent
patterns and pressure settings, it is not difficult manufacturer's directions.
to determine th e appropriate clean in g approach • After pressure wash ing, a lways seal the surface
for each project. The nozzle is adjustable-from a with an appropriate surface sealer (e,g., concrete
low-pressure, wide-fan spray for general cleaning sealer for cement driveways ), following the
and rinsing, to a narrow, intense stream for stubborn product manufacturer's instructions.
Pressure Washer Safety ｾ＠
• Always wear eye protection .

• Do not wear open-toed shoes.
• Make sure the unit is on a stable surface and the
cleaning area has adequate slopes and drainage
to prevent puddles
• Assume a solid stance, and firmly grasp the
spray gun with both hands to avoid injury if the
gun kicks back.
• Always keep the high-pressure hose connected
to both the pump and the spray gun while the
system is pressurized
• Never aim the nozzle at people or animals-the
high-pressure stream of water can cause
serious injury.
270 • THE CO t\ IPLETE PHOTO GU ID E TO HO t\ IE HEPAIH

Tips for Pressure Washing Masonry & Stonework ｾ＠
Always keep the nozzle in motion, spraying at a Hold the spray wand so that the nozzle distributes
steady speed and using long, even strokes. Take multiple the spray pattern across the surface evenly. Holding the
passes over heavily soiled areas. Take care not to dwell nozzle at too Iowan angle can cause an uneven spray
on one spot for too long, especially when using narrow, pattern, resulting in "zebra striping." Also, maintain a
high-pressure spray patterns. consistent distance between the nozzle and the cleaning
surface to ensure consistent results and help flush dirt
and debris from the area.
Work in identifiable sections, such as the area To prevent streaks on vertical surfaces, always begin
between the expansion joints in concrete. If there pressure washing or applying cleaning detergent at the
is a slope, work downhill to promote drainage and bottom of the surface, then work upward. When rinsing,
help flush away dirt and debris. Wet entire surface to start at the top and work downward-gravity will help the
prevent streaking. clean water flush away dirt. debris, and detergent residue.

I Repairing an Asphalt Driveway
T he two most popu lar hard surface dt-iveway
mater ials are asphalt and co ncrete . Both are
used, alm ost interch angeably, throughout the country
in cold and hot c lim ates. But there are so me bas ic
diffe re nces. C on c rete genera ll y costs more to insta ll
a nd aspha lt gene rall y cos ts more to ma inta in as the
years go by. And , concrete does n't a lways perform
well in co ld areas. It's susceptibl e to damage from
the free ze-and-thaw cyc le a nd it ca n be da maged by
expos ure to road sa lt. Asph alt, on th e other ha nd ,
does n't always perform well in hot clim ates . It absorbs
a lot of h ea t from the sun a nd te nd s to stay soft during
very hot pe riod s. And , of course, whe n th e surface is
soft , it can wear more guickly.
A typical asphalt driveway is formed by pouring and

compressing a layer of hot asphalt over a subbase of
compacted gravel
I How to Repair an Asphalt Driveway
carefully inspect the asphalt surface for any oil and Once the stains are removed, thoroughly rinse the entire
grease stains. Then remove them with driveway cleaner or driveway with a garden hose and nozzle. The goal is to wash
household detergent. Scrub the cleaner into the surface with a away any debris and to remove the dust and dirt from the
soft brush and rinse the area clean with a garden hose. Repeat surface cracks.
until the stain is gone If using driveway cleaner, wear the
recommended safety equipment.

4
Repair the small cracks first. Chip out any loose debris with Place asphalt patching compound in the holes with a
a cold chisel and hammer. Then clean out all debris with a wire small trowel. Overfill the hole so the patch material is about Yz"
brush . Remove all the dust with a shop vacuum. A crevice tool higher than the surrounding asphalt surface.
on the end of the hose will do the best job.
compact the patch material with a small piece of 2 x 4. Finish the patch by covering it with a piece of 2 x 6 and
Tamp the board up and down with your hand, or strike the striking it with a hammer or mallet. Work back and forth across
board with a hammer. Keep working until you can't compress the board to smooth out the entire patch and make it flush to
the patch any more. the surrounding surface.
(continued)

On narrower patches, the compound can be smoothed prepare larger potholes by undercutting the edges with a
with a small trowel. Just move the tool across the surrounding cold chisel and a hammer. Then, remove all the debris and fill
surface and then over the patch. This should flatten the patch. the hole with cold-patch asphalt mix. working directly from
Finish up by compressing the compound by pushing it down the bag, fill the hole about 1 in. higher than the surrounding
with the trowel. surface. Then compact it with a 2 x 4, as before.
One great way to compress cold-patch asphalt is to Once the hole patching is done, fill the routine cracks (less
cover the patch with a piece of plywood. Then, drive your car than '14' wide) with asphalt crack filler. This material comes in
onto the plywood and stop when one tire is centered on the a caulk tube, which makes it very easy to apply. Just clean the
panel. Wait a few minutes, then move the car back and forth a crack with a wire brush and a vacuum, then squeeze the filler
few times. into the crack.

After the crack filler has cured for about 10 or 15 minutes, Driveway sealer should always be mixed thoroughly
smooth it out with a putty knife as you force the fi ller down before use. Take a 2x stir stick that's about 30 in. long and stir
into the crack. If this creates small depressions, fill these with a the sealer until it has a uniform consistency. Pour out enough
second application of filler. to cover a strip across the driveway that's about 3-ft. or
4-ft. wide.
Spread the sealer with the squeegee side of the application Flip the squeegee over to the brush side and smooth out
brush . Try to keep this coat as uniform as possible Work the lap marks and other irregularities that were left from the
the sealer into the small cracks and pull it gently over the application coat. Work at right angles to the first pass.
big patches.

I Maintaining a Deck
I nspect yo ur deck o nce eac h yea r. Rep lace loose o r
ru sting ha rd wa re or fas te ners, a nd app ly fresh fini sh
to preve nt water damage.
Loo k ca refull y for a reas that show signs of
da mage. Rep lace or re in fo rce da maged wood as soo n
as poss ibl e (pages 278 to 279).
Restore a n olde r, weathe red dec k to th e
origin al wood col or wit h a dec k-b ri ghte ning
so lu t ion. Brighte ners a re ava il ab le at a ny ho me
imp rove me nt store .
Flashlight Eye protec ti on

Awl or sc rewdri ve r Press ure sprayer
Sc rewgun 2 '/," corros ion-
Pu tty knife res ista nt
Sc rub brush dec k sc rews
Rub be r gloves Dec k bri ghte ne r Inspect hidden areas regularly for signs of rotted or
damaged wood. Apply a fresh coat of finish yearly.
Tips for Maintaining an Older Deck ｾ＠
Use an awl or screwdriver to check deck for soft. Clean debris from cracks between decking boards with
rotted wood. Replace or reinforce damaged wood. a putty knife. Debris traps moisture, and can cause wood
to rot.

I How to Renew a Deck
Drive new fasteners to secure loose decking to joists. If Mix deck-brightening solution as directed by manufacturer.
using the old nail or screw holes, new fasteners should be Apply solution with pressure sprayer. Let solution set for
slightly longer than the originals. 10 minutes.
Scrub deck thoroughly with a stiff scrub brush. Wear rubber Rinse deck with clear water. If necessary, apply a second
gloves and eye protection. coat of brightener to extremely dirty or stained areas. Rinse
and let dry Apply a fresh coat of sealer or stain.

I Repairing a Deck
R eplace or reinforce damaged deck wood as soon
as possible. Wood rot can spread and weaken
solid wood.
c lear sealer-preservative or staining sea ler. Apply
a fresh coat of finish each year to prevent future
water damage. If you need to repair more than a
After replacing or reinforcing the rotted wood, few small areas , it is probably time to replace the
clean the ent ire deck and app ly a fresh coat of entire deck.
Cat's paw or flat pry bar Circular saw Ratchet wrench %" masonry
Screwgun Scrub brush Sealer-preservative or staining anc hor
Awl or screwdriver Paint brush sealer %" lag screw
Hammer Hydraulic jack Ga lvanized nails (6d, IOd) Rubber gloves
Chise l Drill or hammer drill Deck lumber Bucket
Eye protection %" masonry bit Baking soda Concrete block
Pressure-sprayer Level Corrosion-resistant deck screws Scrap plywood
I How to Repair Damaged Decking & Joists
Remove nails or screws from the Inspect the underlying joists Use a hammer and chisel to remove
damaged decking board, using a for signs of rotted wood. Joists with any rotted portions of joist.
eat's paw or screwgun. Remove the discolored, soft areas should be
damaged board . repaired and reinforced.

Apply a thick coat of sealer-preservative to damaged Treat all sides of sister joist with clear sealer-preservative,
joist. Let dry, then apply a second coat of sealer. Cut a and let dry Position sister joist tightly against the damaged
reinforcing joist (sister joist) from pressure-treated lumber. jOist, and attach with 10d nails driven every 2 feet.
Attach sister joist to ledger and header joist by toenailing If the existing decking is gray. "weather" the new decking
with 10d nails. Cut replacement decking boards from matching by scrubbing with a solution made from 1 cup baking soda and
lumber, using a circular saw. 1 gallon warm water. Rinse and let dry.
(continued)

Apply a coat of sealer-preservative or staining sealer to all Position the new decking and attach to joists with
sides of the new decking boards. galvanized deck screws or nails. Make sure space between
boards matches that of existing decking.
I How to Replace a Post on an Older Deck
Build a support, using plywood scraps, a concrete block, Remove the nails or lag screws holding the damaged post
and a hydraulic jack. Place 1'12' layer of plywood between to the anchor pad and to the beam. Remove the damaged post
head of jack and beam. Apply just enough pressure to lift the and the wood anchor pad on the concrete pier.
beam slightly.

Drill a hole in the middle of the concrete pier, using a Position galvanized post anchor on pier block, and thread
hammer drill and a 'Is " masonry bit. Insert 'Is" masonry anchor a 3fs" lag screw with washer through the hole in the anchor
into hole. and into the masonry anchor. Tighten the screw with a
ratchet wrench.
Cut new post from pressure-treated lumber, and treat Attach the bottom of the post to the post anchor, using
cut ends with sealer-preservative. Position post and make sure 10d or 16d joist hanger nails. Attach the post to the beam by
it is plumb. redriving the lag screws, using a ratchet wrench. Release the
pressure on the jack and remove the support.

IL....--_ _ _ _______
Plumbing
& Wiring
• The Home Plumbing System
• Working with Plastic Pipes
• Working with Copper Pipe
• Working with Galvanized Iron
• Working with Cast Iron
• Repairing Valves & Hose Bibs
• Installing Pedestal Sinks
• Installing Integral Vanity Tops
• Installing a Drop-in Kitchen Sink
• Fixing Leaky Faucets
• Replacing a Sink Faucet
• Installing Shutoff Valves & Supply Tubes
• Fixing Sprayers & Aerators
• Tub & Shower Plumbing
• Common Toilet Problems
• Installing a Toilet
• Clearing Clogs & Fixing Drains
• Fixing a Water Heater
• Replacing a Water Heater
• Maintaining a Water Softener
• Maintaining Septic Systems
• Fixing Burst or Frozen Pipes
• Quieting Noisy Pipes
• Installing a Food Disposer
• Maintaining a Dishwasher
• Your Electrical System
• Understanding Circuits
• Electricity & Safety
• Fuses & Circuit Breakers
• Evaluating Old Wiring
• Inspecting for Wiring Problems
• Common Receptacle Problems
• Receptacle Wiring
• Common Wall-switch Problems
• Wall Switch Basics
• Repairing & Replacing Incandescent Light Fixtures
• Repairing & Replacing Recessed Light Fixtures
• Repairing Chandeliers
• Repairing Track Lights
• Repairing Ceiling Fans
• Repairing & Replacing Fluorescent Lights
• Replacing a Plug
• Replacing a Lamp Socket
• Installing an Electrical Box
• Fixing & Replacing Doorbells
• Installing Hardwired Smoke, CO and Heat Alarms
• Repairing & Replacing Phone Jacks
• 283
I The Home Plumbing System
B eca use mos t of a plumbing sys te m is hidd e n inside
wa lls and Roors, it may see m to be a complex
maze of pipes and fittin gs . In fac t, hom e plumbing is
Toil e ts a nd exte rior sillcoc ks a re exa mpl es of fi xtures
that require onl y a cold wa te r line .
Th e wate r suppl y to fixtures and appli a nces
simple and straightforward. U nde rstandin g how home is controlled with faucets a nd va lves. Fa uce ts and
plumbing works is an importa nt first ste p to wa rd doing va lves have mov ing pa rts a nd seals th at eve ntu a ll y
routine ma inte na nce and money-saving repa irs. may wear out or brea k, but th ey are eas ily repaire d
A typical home plumbing syste m includes three or re placed.
basic pa rts : a wate r suppl y syste m, a fixture a nd Waste wate r th e n e nte rs the dra in sys te m. It first
appli ance set, and a drain syste m. T hese t hree pa rts mu st flow pas t a trap (5), a U-s haped piece of pipe
ca n be seen clea rly in th e photograph of the c ut-away that hold s standing wa te r and prevents sewe r gases
house on the oppos ite page. from e ntering th e home. Eve lY fixture mu st have a
Fresh wa ter e nte rs a h ome through a main supply drain trap.
line (I) . Thi s fresh wa te r so urce is provided by e ith er Th e dra in syste m works e ntirely by grav ity,
a muni cipal wa ter compa ny or a private underground allowing waste wa te r to flow dow nhill throu gh a seri es
we ll. If th e source is a muni c ipal suppli e r, the wa te r of large-dia me ter pipes . These dra in pipes are attach ed
passes throu gh a me te r (2) th at registe rs th e a mount to a system of ve nt pipes . Ve nt pipes (6) bring fres h
of wa te r used. A family of four uses about 400 gallons air to the dra in sys te m, preve ntin g sucti on that wo uld
of water eac h day. slow or stop drain water from Rowing freely, Ve nt pipes
Immedi ately afte r th e main suppl y e nte rs the usuall y ex it th e house at a roof ve nt (7) .
hou se, a bt'a nc h lin e splits off (3) a nd is joined to a All was te wa te r eve ntuall y reac hes a ma in
wa te r heate r (4 ). From th e wa te r heate r, a h ot wa te r waste a nd ve nt stac k (8) . T he main stac k c urves to
line run s parall el to the cold water line to bring th e become a sewe r line (9 ) th at ex its the hou se near th e
water suppl y to fixtures and appli a nces throughout founda tion . In a muni c ipal syste m, thi s sewer lin e
th e house. Fixtures in c lud e s inks, bathtubs, s howers, joins a ma in sewe r line loca ted nea r th e street. \Nhe re
a nd la undry tubs. Applia nces in clude wa ter h ea te rs, sewe r se rvice is not ava ilable, was te water e mpti es into
di sh was he rs, cloth es washe rs, a nd wa te r so fte ners, a se ptic sys te m.
Water meter and main shutoff valves

are located where the main water supply
pipe enters the house. The wate r meter is
the property of your local municipal water
company. If the water meter leaks, or if
you suspect it is not functioning properly,
ca ll your water company for repairs

(8)
Waste and
nt stack
Plurnbing & \Viring • 285

I Working with Plastic Pipes
P lastic pipes and fittings are populal' with
do-it-yoUl'selfers because they are lightwe ight,
inexpensive, and easy to use. Most local plumbing
codes now all ow the use of plastics for home plumbing.
Plastic pipes al'e ava ilab le in rigid and flexible
forms. Rigid plastics include ASS (acrylon itrile
butadiene styrene), PVC (polyvinyl ch loride), and
CPVC (c hlorinated polyvinyl ch lor ide). The most
common ly used flexible p lastics are PE (polyeth ylene)
and PEX (cross-linked polyethylene),
ASS and PVC are used in drain systems. ASS is
no longer approved for new installations. PVC resists
chemical damage and h eat better than ASS. It is
approved for above-ground use by all plumbing codes.
However, some codes sti ll requil'e cast- iron pipe for
main drains that run under concrete s labs. CPVC is
used in water supply systems.
PE is used in outdoor plumbing. PEX is approved
for all indoor supply appl ication s.
Plast ic pipes can be joined to exist in g iron or
copper pipes using transition fittings , but different
types of plastics shou ld not be join ed, For example, if
your drain pipes are PVC plastic, use on ly PVC pipes
and fittings when making repairs and rep lacements.
Prolonged exposure to sunlight even tu ally can
weaken plastic plumbing pipe, so plastics shou ld not
be installed or stored in areas that receive constant
direct sun li ght.
Caution: Your home electrical system

could be grounded through metal water
pipes. When adding plastic pipes to a
metal plumbing system, make sure the
electrical ground circuit is not broken.
Use ground clamps and jumper wires,
available at any hardware store, to bypass
the plastic transition and complete the
electrical ground circuit. Clamps must
be firmly attached to bare metal on both
sides of the plastic pipe

Grip ring
Spacer
Grip fitting
Solvent-glued fittings are used on rigid plastic pipes. Grip fittings are used to join CPVC pipe. Each fitting has a
Solvent dissolves a thin layer of plastic and bonds the pipe and metal grip ring, plastic compression ring, and rubber o-ring.
fitting together.
I Plastic Pipe Grade stamps
Plastic pipe comes w ith three important labels. Material identification shows the type of plastic. For sink traps and drain
pipes, use PVC pipe. For water supply pipes, use CPVC pipe or PEX. PE is used for outdoor cold water supply. The NSF rating
indicates the pipe's proper application. For sink traps and drains, choose PVC pipe that has a "DWV" rating . For water supply pipes,
choose CPVC or PEX pipe that has a "PW" (pressurized water) rating. Pipe size is also specified PVC pipe for drains usually has an
inside diameter of 1%" to 4". CPVC and PEX pipes for water supply usually have an inside diameter of 'I,' or 3/, ".

I Cutting & Fitting Rigid Plastic Pipe
ut t'igid ABS , pvc, a t' CPVC plastic pipes wit h
C a tubin g c utter or with any saw. C uts must be
straight to ens ure watertigh t joints.
Rigid plastics are joined with plastic fittings and
so lvent glu e. Use a so lvent glu e that is made fat' the
type of plastic pipe you are in stalling. For examp le, do
not use ABS so lvent on PVC pipe, Some solvent glu es,
ca ll ed "all -purpose" or "u nive rsa l" so lvents , may be
used on a ll types of plastic pipe,
Solvent glue h ardens in abo ut 30 seconds, so
test-fit a ll plastic pipes and fittings before gluing the
first joint. Fo r best results, the surfaces of plastic pipes
and fittings sh ould be dull ed with emelY cloth and
liguid primer before they are joined,
Liguid so lve nt glues a nd primers a re toxic and
flammable. Provide adeguate venti lat ion when fitting
plastics, and store the products away from any source
of heat.
Plastic gr ip fittings can be used to join rigid or
flexible plastic pipes to copper plumbing pipes.
Tape measure Ut ility knife F ittin gs Solven t glu e

Felt-tipped pen Channel-type pliers Emery cloth Rag
Tub ing cutter (or miter G loves Plastic pipe primer Petroleum jelly
box or hacksaw) Plastic pipe
Specialty materials for plastics include:

solvent glues and primer (A), solvent-glue
fittings (B), emery cloth (C), and plastic grip
fittings (D)

I Measuring Plastic Pipe
Find length of plastic pipe needed by measuring between the bottoms of the fitting sockets (fittings shown in cutaway). Mark
the length on the pipe with a felt-tipped pen
I How to Cut Rigid Plastic Pipe
Tubing cutter: Tighten tool around Miter box: Make straight cuts on all Hacksaw: Clamp plastic pipe in a
pipe so cutting wheel is on marked line. types of plastic pipe with a power or portable gripping bench or a vise,
Rotate tool around pipe, tightening screw hand miter box. and keep the hacksaw blade straight
every two rotations, until pipe snaps. while sawing.

I How to Solvent-glue Rigid Plastic Pipe
Remove rough burrs on cut ends of plastic pipe, using a Test-fit all pipes and fittings. Pipes should fit tightly against
utility knife. the bottom of the fitting sockets.
Mark depth of the fitting sockets on pipes. Take pipes Apply plastic pipe primer to the ends of the pipes and to
apart. Clean ends of pipes and fitting sockets with emery cloth. the insides of the fitting sockets. Primer dulls glossy surfaces
and ensures a good seal.

Solvent-glue each joint by applying a thick coat of solvent Quickly position pipe and fitting so that alignment marks
glue to end of pipe. Apply a thin coat of solvent glue to inside are offset by about 2 inches. Force pipe into fitting until the end
surface of fitting socket. Work quickly: solvent glue hardens in fits flush against the bottom of the socket.
about 30 seconds.
1 ,
Spread solvent by twisting the pipe until marks are Wipe away excess solvent glue with a rag. Do not disturb
aligned Hold pipe in place for about 20 seconds to prevent the joint for 30 minutes after gluing.
joint from slipping

I Working with Copper Pipe
C opper is th e idea l mate ri a l for water supp ly p ipes.
It res ists corrosion a nd h as smooth surfaces
that provide good water Row. Coppe r pipes are
avail able in severa l diameters, but most hom e wate r
supply syste ms use Y," or 14" pipe. Coppe r pipe is
manufac tured in rigid an d fl exi ble forms.
Rigid copper, so metim es ca lled hard copper, is
ap proved for hom e water supply systems by all loca l
codes. It comes in three wa ll-t hi ckness grades: Types M,
L, and K. Type M is the thinnest, the leas t expensive,
and a good choice for do-it-yourself home plumbing.
Rigid Type L usu ally is required by code for
commerc ial plumbing syste ms. Because it is stron g
and solde rs easily, Type L may be preferred by some
profess ional plumbers and do-it-yourselfers for hom e
use. Type K has the heaviest wa ll thickness a nd is
used most often for unde rgro und wa te r service lin es .
Flexible coppe r, also called soft coppe r, comes in
two wa ll -t hi ckness grades: Types Land K. Both are
approved for most home wate r supply syste ms, a lthough
Rexible Type L copper is used primarily for gas service
lines. Because it is be ndable and will resist a mild
frost , Type L may be install ed as part of a water supply
syste m in unheated indoo r a reas, like craw l spaces.
Type K is used for underground wa ter service lines.
A third form of copper, call ed DWV, is used for
dra in systems. Because mo st codes now allow low-cos t
pl astic pipes for drain systems, DWV copper is
se ldom used.
Soldered fittings, also called sweat fittings, often are used to
Copper pipes are connected with sold ered ,
join copper pipes. Correctly soldered fittings (pages 296 to 299)
co mpression, or Rare fittin gs (see ch art be low). Always are strong and trouble-free. Copper pipe can also be joined
follow your local code for the correct types of pipes with compression fittings (pages 300 to 301) or flare fittings
a nd fittings a llowed in yo ur a rea . (pages 302 to 303). See chart below
Copper Pipe & Fitting Chart ｾ＠

Rigid Copper Flexible Copper
Fitting Method Type M Type L Type K Type L Type K General Comments
Soldered yes yes yes yes yes Inexpensive, strong, and trouble·free fitting method. Requires some skill.
Compression yes not recommended yes yes Easy to use. Allows pipes or fixtures to be repaired or repla ced readily.
More expensive than solder. Best used on flexible copper.
Flore no no no yes yes Use only with flexible copper pipes. Usually used as a gos·line fittin g.
Requires some skill.

Grade stamp information includes the pipe diameter, the
wall-thickness grade, and a stamp of approval from the ASTM
(American Society for Testing and Materials). Type M pipe is
identified by red lettering, Type L by blue lettering
Bend flexible copper pipe with a coil-spring tubing bender Specialty tools & materials for working with copper include:
to avoid kinks. Select a bender that matches the outside flaring tools (A), emery cloth (B), coil-spring tubing bender (C),
diameter of the pipe. Slip bender over pipe using a twisting pipe joint compound (D), self-cleaning soldering paste (flux) (E),
motion. Bend pipe slowly until it reaches the correct angle, but lead-free solder (F), wire brush (G), flux brush (H), compression
not more than 900. fitting (I), flare fitting (J).
Find length of copper pipe needed by measuring between the bottom of the copper fitting sockets (fittings shown in cutaway).
Mark length on the pipe with a felt-tipped pen.

I Cutting & Soldering Copper
T he bes t way to c ut rigid a nd fl ex ibl e coppe r pipe
is with a tubing cutte r. A tubing cutte r ma kes a
smooth , straight cut, an important first step toward
ga p be twee n the fittin g and pipe to form a wa te rti ght
seal. A fittin g that is ove rhea ted or un eve nly heated
will not draw in solder. C opper pipes and fittin gs must
makin g a wa te rti ght joint . Re move any metal burrs on be cJea n a nd dry to form a waterti ght seal.
th e cut edges with a rea ming tool or round fil e .
Coppe r ca n be cut with a hac ksa w. A hacksaw is
useful in ti ght a reas wh ere a tubing c utter will not fit.
Take care to ma ke a smooth , stra ight c ut whe n c utting
with a hac ksaw.
A solde red pipe joint, a lso ca lled a swea ted joint,
is made by h ea ting a coppe r or brass fittin g with a
propa ne torch until th e fittin g is just hot e nough to
melt metal solde r. Th e hea t draws the solde r into the
Tubing c utte r Adjustabl e wre nc h

with rea ming C hann e l-type plie rs
tip (or h acksaw Copper pipe
a nd round fil e ) Copper fittin gs
Wire brush E me ry cloth
Flux bru s h Soldering paste (flu x)
Propane torch Sh eet me tal
Protect wood from heat of the torch flame whi le soldering,
Spark li ghte r Lead-free solde r using a double layer (two 18" x 18" pieces) of 26-gauge sheet
(or match es) Rag metal. BUy sheet metal at hardware stores or building supply
centers and keep it to use with all solderi ng projects
Soldering Tips ｾ＠
Use caution when soldering coppe r. Keep joint dry when so ldering Prevent accidents by shutting
Pipes and fittings become ve ry existing wate r pipes by plugging off propane torch immed iately
hot and must be allowed to cool the pipe with bread. Bread absorbs after use. Make sure valve is
before handling. moisture that may ruin the soldering closed completely.
process and cause pinhole leaks.
The bread dissolves when wate r is
turned back on.
2 94 • T HE CO I\ IPLETE PHOTO GU ID E TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

I How to Cut Rigid & Flexible Copper Pipe
Place tubing cutter over the pipe and tighten the handle Turn tubing cutter one rotation so that cutting wheel
so that pipe rests on both rollers, and cutting wheel is on scores a continuous straight line around the pipe.
marked line.
Rotate the cutter in the opposite direction, tightening Remove sharp metal burrs from inside edge of the cut
the handle slightly after every two rotations, until cut pipe, using the reaming point on the tubing cutter, or a
is complete. round file.

I How to Solder Copper Pipes & Fittings
Clean end of each pipe by sanding with emery cloth. Ends Clean inside of each fitting by scouring with a wire brush or
must be free of dirt and grease to ensure that the solder forms emery cloth.
a good seal.
Apply a thin layer of soldering paste Assemble each joint by inserting Prepare the wire solder by
(flux) to end of each pipe, using a flux the pipe into the fitting so it is tight unwinding 8" to 10" of wire from
brush . Soldering paste should cover against the bottom of the fitting sockets. spool. Bend the first 2" of the wire to a
about 1" of pipe end. Twist each fitting slightly to spread 90° angle.
soldering paste.

Open the gas va lve and trigger the spark lighter to ignite Adjust the torch va lve until the inner portion of the flame is
the torch. 1" to 2" long.
Hold flame tip against middle of fitting for 4 to 5 seconds, Heat other side of copper fitting to ensure that heat is
until soldering paste begins to sizzle. distributed evenly. Touch solder to pipe. If solder melts, pipe is
ready to be soldered.
(continued)

When pipe is hot enough to melt solder, remove torch Allow the joint to cool briefly, then wipe away excess
and quickly push '/2' to %" of solder into each joint Capillary solder with a dry rag. Caution: Pipes will be hot If joints leak
action fills joint with liquid solder. A correctly soldered joint after water is turned on, disassemble and resolder.
should show a thin bead of solder around the lip of the fitting.
I How to Solder Brass Valves
Remove the valve stem with an adjustable wrench. Light propane torch . Heat body of valve, moving flame to
Removing the stem prevents heat damage to rubber or plastic distribute heat evenly Brass is denser than copper, so it requires
stem parts while soldering Prepare the copper pipes and more heating time before joints will draw solder. Apply solder.
assemble joints. Let metal cool, then reassemble valve.

I How to Take Apart Soldered Joints
Turn off the water and drain the pipes by opening the Use channel-type pliers to separate the pipes from
highest and lowest faucets in the house. Light propane torch. the fitting.
Hold flame tip to the fitting until the solder becomes shiny and
begins to melt.
Remove old solder by heating ends of pipe with propane Use emery cloth to polish ends of pipe down to bare metal.
torch. Use dry rag to wipe away melted solder quickly. Caution: Never reuse old fittings.
Pipes will be hot.

I Using Compression Fittings
C ompression fittings are used to make
connections that may need to be taken apart.
Compression fittings are easy to disconnect and
often are used to install supply tubes and fixture
shutoff va lves. Use compression fittings in places
where it is unsafe or difficult to so ld er, such as in
crawl spaces.
Compression fittings are used most often with
flexible copper pipe. Flexible copper is soft enough to
all ow the compression ring to seat snugly, creating a
watertight seal. Compression fittings also may be used
to make connections with Type M rigid copper pipe.
See the chart on page 292.
Felt-tipped pen Brass compression

Tub ing cutter fittings
Compression fitting (shown in cutaway) shows how threaded
or hacksaw Pipe joint compound compression nut forms seal by forcing the compression ring
Adjustable wrenches or Teflon tape against the copper pipe. Compression ring is covered with pipe
joint compound before assembling to ensure a perfect seal.
I How to Attach Supply Tubes to Fixture Shutoff Valves

with Compression Fittings
Bend flexible copper supply tube Slide the compression nut and then Apply a layer of pipe joint compound
and mark to length. Include y," for the compression ring over end of the or Teflon tape over the threads
portion that will fit inside valve. Cut tube. pipe The threads of the nut should face on the valve. This helps ensure a
the valve. watertight seal.

Insert the end of the pipe into the Slide the compression ring and Tighten the compression nut
fitting so it fits flush against the bottom nut against the threads of the valve. with adjustable wrenches. Do not
of the fitting socket. Hand-tighten the nut onto the valve. overtighten. Turn on the water and
watch for leaks. If the fitting leaks,
tighten the nut gently.
I How to Join Two Copper Pipes

with a Compression Union Fitting
Slide compression nuts and rings Apply a layer of pipe joint compound Hold the center of the union fitting
over the ends of pipes. Place a threaded or Teflon tape to the union's threads, with an adjustable wrench and use
union between the pipes. then screw compression nuts onto another wrench to tighten each
the union . compression nut one complete turn.
Turn on the water. Ifthe fitting leaks,
tighten the nuts gently.

I Using Flare Fittings
F la t-e fittings are used more often for flexible copper
gas lin es . Flare fittings may be used with fl exible
copper water supply pipes, but they cannot be used
where the connections wi ll be concealed in side wall s.
Always check your loca l code regarding the use of
flare fittings.
Flare fittings are easy to disconnect. Use flare
fittings in places where it is unsafe or difficult to
so ld er, such as in craw l spaces.
Two-piece flari ng tool

Adju stable wrenches Flare fitting (shown in cutaway) shows how flared end of
Brass fl are fittings flexible copper pipe forms seal against the head of a brass
union fitting.
I How to Join Two Copper Pipes with a Flare Union Fitting
Slide flare nuts onto ends of pipes. Nuts must be placed Select hole in flaring tool base that matches outside
on pipes before ends can be flared. Ream inside of pipe to diameter of pipe. Open base, and place end of pipe inside hole.
create smooth edge.

Clamp pipe inside flaring tool base. Slip yoke of flaring tool around base. Center flaring tip of yoke over end of pipe
End of pipe must be flush with flat (inset photo above). Tighten handle of yoke to shape the end of the pipe. Flare is
surface of base. completed when handle cannot be turned farther.
Remove yoke and remove pipe from Place flare union between flared ends Hold center of flare union with
base. Repeat flaring for other pipe. of pipe and screw flare nuts onto union. adjustable wrench and use another
wrench to tighten flare nuts one
complete turn. Turn on water. If fitting
leaks, tighten nuts.

I Working with Galvanized Iron
G a lvan ized iron pipe often is found in older homes,
wh ere it is used for wate r supply and small drain
lines. It can be ide ntified by the zinc coating that gives
a s ma ll job may beco me a large project. Fo r exa mpl e,
cutting apa rt a section of pipe to replace a leaky fittin g
may reveal that adj ace nt pipes are also in need of
it a sil ver colm and by the threaded fittings used to replacement. If yo ur job takes a n un expec ted amount of
connect pipes. time, yo u can cap off a ny open lines and restore water
Ga lva nized iron pipes a nd fittin gs will corrode to the rest of yo ur house. Before you begin a repair, have
with age and eve ntually mu st be replaced. Low water on ha nd nipples and end caps that match your pipes,
press ure may be a sign that the in sides of galva ni zed Taking apart a system of ga lva nized iron pipes
pipes have a buildup of ru st. Blockage usua ll y occurs and fittings is time-consuming. Disassembly mu st
in elbow fittings. Never try to clea n th e insid es of start at th e e nd of a pipe run , a nd each piece must
galva ni zed iron pipes. In stea d, remove and replace be un screwed before th e next piece can be removed.
th e m as soo n as possible. Reaching th e middl e of a run to repl ace a sec tion
Ga lva nized iron pipe a nd fittin gs are ava ilable of pipe can be a long a nd tedious job. Instead, use
at hardware stores and home improve ment ce nters. a spec ia l three-piece fitting ca ll ed a union. A union
Always spec ify the inter ior diameter (I. D.) w he n makes it poss ibl e to re move a sec tion of pipe or a
purchasing galvanized pipes an d fittings. Pre-threaded fittin g without havi ng to take th e e ntire sys te m apart.
pipes, called nippl es, are ava il able in le ngth s from 1" Note: Galvanized iron is sornetimes confused -with
to 1 ft . If yo u need a longe r le ngth , have th e store c ut "b/ach iron." Both types have similar sizes and fi ttings.
a nd thread the pipe to yo ur dimensions. Blach iron is used only for gas lines.
Old galvanized iron ca n be difficult to repail'.
Fi ttings often are ru sted in pl ace, a nd what see ms like
Tape meas ure Wire brush

Reciprocating saw Nipples
with metal - End caps
c uttin g blade U nion fittin g
or a hacksaw Pipe joint co mpound
Pipe wre nches Replacement fittin gs
Propane torch (if needed)
Measure old pipe. Include '/2' at each end for the threaded
portion of the pipe inside fitting. Bring overall measurement to
the store when shopping for replacement parts.

I How to Remove & Replace a Galvanized Iron Pipe
Cut through galvanized iron pipe with a reciprocating saw Hold fitting with one pipe wrench, and use another
and a metal-cutting blade or with a hacksaw. wrench to remove old pipe. Jaws of wrenches should face
opposite directions. Always move wrench handle toward
jaw opening.
Remove any corroded fittings using two pipe wrenches. Heat stubborn fittings with a propane torch to make
With jaws facing in opposite directions, use one wrench to turn them easier to remove. Apply flame for 5 to 10 seconds.
fitting and the other to hold the pipe. Clean pipe threads with a Protect wood and other flammable materials from heat using
wire brush. a double layer of sheet metal.
(continued)

Replace a section of galvanized iron pipe with a union fitting and two threaded pipes (nipples). When assembled, the union
and nipples must equal the length of the pipe that is being replaced
Apply a bead of pipe joint compound around threaded Screw new fittings onto pipe threads. Tighten fittings
ends of all pipes and nipples Spread compound evenly over with two pipe wrenches, leaving them about 'Is turn out of
threads with fingertip. alignment to allow assembly of union .

Screw first nipple into fitting, and Slide ring nut onto the installed Screw second nipple onto other
tighten with pipe wrench. nipple, then screw the hubbed union fitting. Tighten with a pipe wrench.
nut onto the nipple and tighten with a
pipe wrench .
Screw threaded union nut onto second nipple. Tighten with Complete the connection by screwing the ring nut onto the
a pipe wrench . Turn pipes into alignment, so that lip of hubbed threaded union nut. Tighten ring nut with pipe wrenches.
union nut fits inside threaded union nut.

I Working with Cast Iron
C ast iron pipe often is found in older homes, where
it is used for large DWV pipes, especiall y the main
stack a nd sewer service lines. It ca n be identified by its
dark color, rough surface, and large size. Cast iron pipes
in horne drains usually are 3" or more in diameter.
Cas t iron pipes may ru st through or hubbed
fittin gs (below) may leak. If your h ouse is more th an
30 years old, yo u may find it necessary to replace a
cast iron pipe 01' joint.
Cas t iron is h eavy and difficult to c ut and fit. For
thi s reason , leaky cast iron pipe usuall y is replaced
with PVC of the same diameter. PVC can be joined to
cas t iron eas il y, us ing a banded co uplin g (below).
Snap cutters are the traditional tool of choice for
cutting cast iron (see page 310), but today's variab le-speed
reciprocating saws do the job easi ly and safe ly. Use a long
metal-cutting blade and set the saw at low speed. Wear
eye and ear protection when cutti ng cast iron pipe.
Tape measure Screwdriver

Cha lk Riser c lamps o r
Adjustable wrenches strap h angers
Reciprocating Two wood blocks
saw (or rented 2)1," wa llboard screws
snap cutter) Banded coup lings
Ratch e t wrenc h Plastic replacement pipe
Hubbed fittings (shown cutaway, left) may be used to join Banded couplings may be used to replace leaky cast
old cast iron pipe. Hubbed pipe has a straight end and a flared iron with a PVC or ABS plastic pipe. The new plastic pipe
end. The straight end of one pipe fits inside the hub of the next is connected to the remaining cast iron pipe with banded
pipe. Joints are sealed with packing material (oakum) and lead. coupling. Banded coupling has a neoprene sleeve that seals
Repair leaky joints by cutting out the entire hubbed fitting and the joint. Pipes are held together with stainless steel bands
replacing with plastic pipe. and screw clamps.

Riser
clamp
Before cutting a horizontal run of cast iron drain pipe, Before cutting a vertical run of cast iron pipe, make sure
make sure it is supported with strap hangers every 5 ft. and at it is supported at every floor level with a riser clamp. Never cut
every joint connection. apart pipe that is not supported.
I How to Remove & Replace a Section of Cast Iron Pipe
Use chalk to mark cut lines on the support lower section of pipe by support upper section of pipe by
cast iron pipe. If replacing a leaky hub, installing a riser clamp flush against installing a riser clamp 6" above pipe
mark at least 6" on each side of hub. bottom plate or floor. section to be replaced. Attach wood
blocks to the studs with 2'12' wallboard
screws, so that the riser clamp rests on
tops of blocks.
(continued)

Wrap chain of the snap cutter Tighten the chain and snap Repeat cutting at the other chalk line.
around the pipe, so that the cutting the pipe according to the tool Remove cut section of pipe.
wheels are against the chalk line. manufacturer's directions.
Cut a length of PVC plastic pipe to Slip a banded coupling and a Make sure the cast iron pipe is seated
be '/2' shorter than the section of cast neoprene sleeve onto each end of the snugly against the rubber separator ring
iron pipe that has been cut away. cast iron pipe. molded into the interior of the sleeve.

Fold back the end of each neoprene sleeve, until the Position the new plastic pipe so it is aligned with the cast
molded separator ring on the inside of the sleeve is visible. iron pipes.
Roll the ends of the neoprene sleeves Slide stainless steel bands and Tighten the screw clamps with a
over the ends of the new plastic pipe. clamps over the neoprene sleeves. ratchet wrench or screwdriver.

I Repairing Valves & Hose Bibs
V a lves make it possible to shut off wate r at any
point in the supply system. If a pipe breaks or a
plumbing fixture begins to leak, yo u can shut off water
to the damaged area so that it ca n be repaired. A hose
bib is a faucet wit h a threaded spout, often used to
connect rubber utility or applian ce hoses.
Valves and hose bibs leak when washers or seals
wear out. Replacement parts can be found in the
same universal was her kits used to repair compression
faucets. Coat replacement was hers with heatproof
grease to keep them soft and prevent cracking.
Remember to turn off the water before
beginning work.
Screwdriver Universal washer ki t

Adjustable wrench I-Ieatproof grease
I How to Fix a Leaky Hose Bib

ｾ＠ Handle screw
2 I Handle
nut
Spindle
Stem
screw
Remove the handle screw, and lift off the handle. Unscrew Unscrew the spindle from the valve body Remove the stem
the packing nut with an adjustable wrench . screw and replace the stem washer. Replace the packing
washer, and reassemble the valve.

I Common Types of Valves
Packing
ｐ｡｣ｫｩｮｧｾ＠ nut
washer
Spindle
Spindle
Curved
chamber
Gate Stem ｾｶｓｴ･ｭ＠
washer screw
Gate valve has a movable brass wedge, or "gate," that Globe valve has a curved chamber. Repair leaks around
screws up and down to control water flow. Gate valves may the handle by replacing the packing washer. If valve does not
develop leaks around the handle. Repair leaks by replacing fully stop water flow when closed, replace the stem washer.
the packing washer or packing string found underneath the
packing nut.
Packing
nut - ---n
ｾｊｙ＠
Packing
nut
Spindle Gasket
Packing Spike
ring
Stem
washer ----11._
Shutoff valve controls water supply to one or more Saddle valve is a small fitting often specified to connect a
fixtures. A shutoff valve has a plastic spindle with a packing refrigerator icemaker or sink-mounted water filter to copper
washer and a snap-on stem washer. Repair leaks around the pipe. A saddle valve contains a hollow spike that punctures the
handle by replacing the packing washer. If a valve does not water pipe when valve is first closed. The fitting is sealed with
fully stop water flow when closed, replace the stem washer. a rubber gasket. Some codes prohibit their use. A dual-outlet
Shutoff valves with multiple outlets are available to supply shutoff valve or a Hitting are better substitutes.
several fixtures from a single supply

I Installing & Repairing Sillcocks
A Sillcock is a compress ion faucet attached to the

outsIde of the house. RepaIr a leaky sllJcock by
replacing the stem washer and the O-ring.
Si llcocks can be damaged by frost. To repair a Screwdriver Silicone caulk

ruptured pipe, see pages 404 to 405. To prevent pipes Channel-type pliers 2" corrosion-
from ruptming, close the indoor shutoff valve at the start Pencil resistant screws
of the co ld weather season, disconnect a ll garden hoses, Right-angle drill Copper pipe
and open the sillcock to let trapped water drain out. or standard drill T-ntting
A special frost-proof sillcock has a lon g stem that I" spade bit Teflon tape
reaches at least 6" inside the house to protect it from Cau lk gun Th readed adapter
co ld. Install a si llc ock so the pipe angles downward Hacksaw or Shutoff valve
from the shutoff valve. This allows water to drain away tubing cutter Emery cloth
each time the faucet is turned off. Propane torch Soldering paste
Remember to turn off the water before Universa l washer kit (flux)
beginning work. SiJlcock Solder
I How to Repair a Sillcock
Remove sillcock handle, and loosen retaining nut with Remove the brass stem screw at the end of the stem, and
channel-type pliers. Remove stem. Replace O-ring found on replace the washer Reassemble the sillcock.
retaining nut or stem.

Frost-proof sill cock is mounted against the rim joist (sill)
and has a long stem that reaches 6" to 30" inside the house to
protect the valve from cold. A sillcock should angle downward
slightly from the main toward the sill to provide drainage. The
stem washer and O-ring (or packing string) can be replaced if
the sillcock begins to leak. In a copper plumbing system, the
sillcock is connected to a nearby cold water supply pipe with
a threaded adapter, two lengths of soldered copper pipe, and
a shutoff valve. A T-fitting (not shown) is used to tap into an
existing cold water pipe.
Threaded
adapter
I How to Install a Frost-proof Sillcock

Rim joist t
locate position of hole for sillcock. From nearest cold Apply a thick bead of silicone caulk to bottom of sillcock
water pipe, mark a point on rim joist that is slightly lower than flange, then insert sillcock into hole, and attach to siding with
water pipe. Drill a hole through the joist, sheathing, and siding, 2" corrosion-resistant screws. Turn handle to ON position. Wipe
using a 1" spade bit. away excess caulk.
Copper
pipe Threaded
Mark cold water pipe, then cut pipe and install a Hitting. Join Hitting to sillcock with threaded adapter, a shutoff
Wrap Teflon tape around threads of sillcock. valve, and two lengths of copper pipe. Prepare pipes and
solder the joints. Turn on water, and close sillcock when water
runs steadily.

I Installing Pedestal Sinks
P edesta l sinks move in a nd out of popularity more
freque ntly th an other sink types, but eve n during
tim es they are n't particularly tre ndy th ey retain fa irly
benefit is that they concea l plumbing so me
hom eowners wo uld prefer not to see.
Pedestal sinks are mounted in two ways . Most of
stable demand. You'll find them most frequently the more in expe nsive ones you'll find at hom e stores
in sma ll halF bat hs, whe re their s ma ll footprint are hung in the manner of wa ll- hun g s inks. The
makes them a n effici en t choice. Designers are also pedestal is actually in sta ll ed after th e sink is hung a nd
di scove ring the appeal of ta ndem pedestal sinks of its purpose is only decorative. But other pedestal sinks
late, where the sma ll er profil es allow for hi s-a nd-he rs (typicall y on the higher end of the design sca le) have
s inks that don 't dominate visua ll y. stru ctu ra ll y important pedestals that do most or all of
T h e primary drawback to pedestal sinks is that the bearing for the sink.
th ey don 't offer any sto rage. T he ir chief practical
Pedestal sinks are available in a variety of styles and are a perfect fit for small half baths. They keep plumbing hidden, lending a neat,
contained look to the bathroom .

I How to Install a Pedestal Sink
1 2
Wall surface
show cut away
for ｾｲｬｴｹ＠
Install 2 x 4 blocking between the wall studs, Set the basin and pedestal in position and brace it with
behind the planned sink location. Cover the wall with 2 x 4s. Outline the top of the basin on the wall, and mark the
water-resistant drywall. base of the pedestal on the floor. Mark reference points on the
wall and floor through the mounting holes found on the back
of the sink and the bottom of the pedestal.
5
-
Set aside the basin and pedestal. Attach the faucet, then set the sink Hook up the drain and supply fittings.
Drill pilot holes in the wall and floor at on the pedestal. Align the holes in the Caulk between the back of the sink and
the reference points, then reposition back of the sink with the pilot holes the wall when installation is finished.
the pedestal. Anchor the pedestal to the drilled in the wall, then drive lag screws
floor with lag screws. and washers into the wall brace using
a ratchet wrench. Do not overtighten
the screws.

I Installing Integral Vanity Tops
M ost bathroom co unte rtop s in sta lled today are
integral (one- piece) sink-counte rtop units
made from cultured marble or othe r solid materials,
like solid surfac in g. Integra l s inlJcounte rtops are
con ve ni e nt, a nd ma ny a l'e in expe nsive, but style a nd
color options are limited.
So me re mode le rs and des igners still prefe r th e
di stin ct ive look of a c ustom-buil t co unte rtop with
a se lf-rimming sink bas in , whi c h gives yo u a mu c h
grea ter selec ti on of styles a nd colors. Installing a
self-rimmin g sink is ve lY simple,
Pe nc il Basin wre nch

Scisso rs Ca rdboard
Ca rpe nte r's level Mas kin g ta pe
Sc rewdri ve r Plumbe r's putty Integral sink-countertops are made in standard sizes to fit
C ha nnel-type plie rs Lag sc rews common van ity widths. Because the sink and countertop are
Ratchet wre nch Tub & til e ca ulk cast from the same materia l, integral sink-counte rtops do not
leak, and do not require extensive caulking and sealing.
I How to Install a vanity Cabinet

2
Pop-up
drain lever
Drain flange
Set the sink-countertop un it onto Thread the locknut and sealing Apply a layer of tub & tile caulk (or
sawhorses. Attach the faucet and slip gasket onto the drai n tai lpiece, then adhesive, if specified by the counte rtop
the drain lever through the faucet body. insert the tailpiece into the drain manufacturer) to the top edges of the
Place a ring of plumber's putty around opening and screw it onto the drain cabinet vanity, and to any corner braces.
the drain fla nge, then insert the flange in flange. Tighten the locknut securely
the drain opening. Attac h the tailpiece extension. Insert the
pop-up stopper linkage.

Center the sink-countertop unit over the vanity, so the Cabinets with corner braces: Secure the counter-top to
overhang is equal on both sides and the backs plash of the the cabinet by driving a mounting screw through each corner
countertop is flush with the wall. Press the countertop evenly brace and up into the countertop. Note: Cultured marble
into the caulk. and other hard countertops require predrilling and a plastic
screw sleeve.
Attach the drain arm to the drain stub-out in the wall, using Seal the gap between the backsplash and the wall with tub
a slip nut. Attach one end of the P-trap to the drain arm, and & tile caulk.
the other to the tailpiece of the sink drain, using slip nuts.
Connect supply tubes to the faucet tailpieces.

I Installing a Drop-In Kitchen Sink
M Ost drop-in , se lf-rimming kitc he n s inks a re eas il y
installed.
Drop-in sinks for dO- it-yourself installation are
made from cas t iron coated with e na mel, stainl ess Ca ulk gun Plumbe r's putty or
stee l, e na me led steel, ac ryli c, fib e rglass or res in Spud wre nch silico ne ca ulk
co mposites . Becau se cast-iron s inks are heavy, the ir Sc rewdri ver Mounting clips
weight holds the m in pl ace and they require no Sink Jigsaw
mounting hardware. Except for th e heavy liftin g, th ey Sink fra me Pe n or pe nc il
a re easy to install. Sta inl ess stee l a nd e na me led-stee l
sinks we igh less tha n cast-iron a nd mos t require
mounting brackets on the unde rs ide of the countertop.
Some aClyli c and res in sinks rely on s ili cone ca ulk to Shopping Tips ｾ＠
hold the m in place.
If you a re re plac ing a sink, but not th e co untertop , o When purchasing a sink you also need to buy
ma ke sure the new sink is th e sam e size or large r. strainer bodies and baskets, sink cli ps and a
All old s ili cone ca ulk residu e mu st be re moved with drain trap kit.
aceton e or de natured alcohol , or else the new ca ulk o Look for basin divide rs that are lower tha n the
will not sti ck. sink rim- this reduces splashing.
o Drain holes in the back or to the side make for
more usable space under the sink.
o When choosing a sink, make su re the predrilled
openings wi ll fit yo ur faucet.
Drop-in sinks, also known as self-rimming sinks, have a wide sink flange that extends beyond the edges of the sink cutout.
They also have a wide back flange to wh ich the faucet is mounted directly.

I How to Install a Self-rimming Sink
1 2 3
Invert the sink and trace around the Drill a starter hole and cut out the Attach as much of the plumbing as
edges as a reference for making the sink opening with a jigsaw. Cut right makes sense to install prior to setting
sink cutout cutting lines, which should up to the line. Because the sink flange the sink into the opening. Having access
be parallel to the outlines, but about 1" fits over the edges of the cutout, the to the underside of the flange is a
inside of them to create a 1" ledge. If opening doesn't need to be perfect, but great help when it comes to attaching
your sink comes with a template for the as always you should try to do a nice, the faucet body, sprayer and strainer,
cutout, use it. neat job. in particular.
4 6
Apply a bead of silicone caulk Place the sink in the opening. Try For sinks with mounting clips,
around the edges of the sink opening. and get the sink centered right away tighten the clips from below using a
The sink flange most likely is not flat, so so you don't need to move it around screwdriver or wrench (depending on
try and apply the caulk in the area that and disturb the caulk, which can break the type of clip your sink has). There
will make contact with the flange. the seal. If you are installing a heavy should be at least three clips on every
cast-iron sink, it's best to leave the side. Don't overtighten the clips-this
strainers off so you can grab onto the can cause the sink flange to flatten or
sink at the drain openings. become warped

I Fixing Leaky Faucets
leaky faucet is the most common horn e plumbing When installing new faucet parts, make sure the
A problem. Leaks occur when washers, O-rings, or
seals inside the faucet are dirty or worn. Fixing leaks
replacements match the original parts. Replacement
parts for popular washe rless faucets are identifi ed by
is easy, but the techniques for making repairs will valy, brand name and mode l number. To ensure a correct
depending on the design of the faucet. Before beginning se lection , you may want to bring the wo rn parts to the
work, you must first identify your faucet design and store for comparison.
determine what replacement parts are needed.
There are four basic faucet des igns: ball-type,
ca rtridge, disc , and compression. Man y faucets can be
identified eas ily by outer appearance, but others must
be taken apart before the design can be recognized.
The compression design is used in many
double-handle faucets. Compression faucets all have
washers or seals that must be replaced from time to
t im e. These repairs are easy to make, and rep lacement
parts are inexpensive.
Ball -type, cartridge, and disc faucets are all known
as washerless faucets. Many washerless faucets
Turn off water before starting any faucet repa ir, using shutoff
are contro ll ed wit h a single handle, although some
va lves underneath faucet, or main service valve found near
cartr idge models use two hand les. Washerless faucets the water meter. When opening shutoff valves after finishing
are more trouble-free than compression faucets and repairs, keep faucet handle in open position to release trapped
are designed for quick repair. air. When water runs steadily, close faucet.
Typical faucet has a single handle

attached to a hollow cartridge The
cartridge controls hot and cold water
flowing from the supply tubes into the
mixing chamber. Water is forced out
the spout and through the aerator.
When repairs are needed, replace the
entire cartridge.

Specialty tools and materials for faucet repairs include penetrating oil (A), seat wrench (B), seat-dressing (reamer) tool (C), handle
puller (D), plumber's putty (E), basin wrench (F), silicone caulk (G).
I How to Identify Faucet Designs
Ball-type faucet has a single handle over a dome-shaped Cartridge faucets are available in single-handle or
cap. If your single-handle faucet is made by Delta or Peerless, double-handle models. popular cartridge faucet brands include
it is probably a ball-type faucet See pages 324 to 325 to fix a Price Pfister, Moen, valley, and Aqualine. See pages 326 to 327
ball-type faucet to fix a cartridge faucet
compression faucet has two handles. When shutting Disc faucet has a single handle and a solid, chromed-brass
the faucet off, you usually can feel a rubber washer being body. If your faucet is made by American Standard or Reliant, it
squeezed inside the faucet compression faucets are sold may be a disc faucet See pages 332 to 333 to fix a disc faucet
under many brand names. See pages 328 to 329 to fix a
compression faucet

I Fixing Ball-type Faucets
ball-type faucet has a sing le handle and is
A identified by the hollow metal or plastic ball
inside the faucet body. Many ball-type faucets have
a rounded cap with knurled edges located under
the handle. If your faucet leaks from the spout and
has this type of cap, first try tightening the cap with
channel-type pliers. If tightening does not fix the leak,
disassemble the faucet a nd install replacement parts.
Faucet manufactmers offer severa llypes of
rep lacement kits for ball-type faucets. Some kits
contain on ly the sprin gs and neoprene valve seats,
whi le better kits also include the cam and cam washer.
Replace the rotating ball only if it is obviously
worn or scratched. Replacement balls are eith er metal
or plastic. Metal balls are slightly more expensive than
plastic but are mOI"e durable.
beginning work.
Channel-type pliers New rotating ball

Allen wrench (if needed )
Screwdriver Masking tape
Utility knife O-rings
Ball-type faucet I-Ieatproof grease
repair kit
Repair kit for a ball-type faucet includes rubber valve Ball-type faucet has a hollow ball that controls the
seats, springs, cam, cam washer, and spout O-rings. Kit temperature and flow of water. Dripping at the faucet spout
may also include small Allen wrench tool used to remove is caused by worn-out valve seats, springs, or a damaged
faucet handle. Make sure kit is made for your faucet model. ball. Leaks around the base of the faucet are caused by
Replacement ball can be purchased separately but is not worn O-rings
needed unless old ball is obviously worn.

I How to Fix a Ball-type Faucet
2 3
Cam
Ball
loosen handle setscrew with an Remove the cap with channel-type lift out the faucet cam, cam washer,
Allen wrench . Remove handle to expose pliers. To prevent scratches to the shiny and the rotating ball. Check the ball for
faucet cap. chromed finish, wrap masking tape signs of wear.
around the jaws of the pliers.
4 5 6
Heatproof grease
Reach into the faucet with a Remove spout by twisting it upward, Insert ball, new cam washer, and cam.
screwdriver and remove the old springs then cut off old O-rings. Coat new Small lug on cam should fit into notch
and neoprene valve seats. O-rings with heatproof grease and install. on faucet body. Screw cap onto faucet
Reattach spout, pressing downward until and attach handle.
the collar rests on plastic slip ring. Install
new springs and valve seats.

I Fixing Cartridge Faucets
cartr idge faucet is id e ntifi ed by the narrow meta l
A or pl as tic ca rtridge ins id e th e faucet bod y. Many
single-handed fa ucets a nd so me doubl e- handle models
use cartr idge designs.
Repl ac ing a cartridge is an easy repa ir that will
fix most fauc e t leaks. Fa uce t cartrid ges co me in ma ny
styles, so you may want to bring the old cartridge along
for comparison when shopping for a rep lac e ment.
Make s ure to inse rt th e new ca rtridge so it is
al igned in the sa me way as the old cartr id ge. If th e hot
a nd cold wa ter controls a re reversed, take th e faucet
apart and rotate th e cartridge 180°.
Remember to turn off the wa te r be fore
beginning wo rk.
Screwdriver Replace me nt ca rtridge

Channel-type plie rs O-r ings
Utility knife Heat-proof grease
Replacement cartridges come in dozens of styles. Cartridge faucet has a hollow cartridge insert that lifts and
Cartridges are available for popular faucet brands, including rotates to control the flow and temperature of water. Dripping at
(from left) Price-Pfister, Moen, and Kohler. O-ring kits may be the spout occurs when the cartridge seals become worn. Leaks
sold separately. around the base of the faucet are caused by worn O-rings

I How to Fix a Cartridge Faucet
2 3
Handle
pry off the index cap on top of Remove faucet handle by lifting it up Remove the threaded retaining ring
faucet, and remove the handle screw and tilting it backwards. with channel-type pliers. Remove any
underneath the cap. retaining clip holding cartridge in place.
4 5 6
Tab
Grip top of the cartridge with Remove the spout by pulling up and Reattach the spout. Screw the
channel-type pliers. Pull straight up to twisting, then cut off old O-rings with retaining ring onto the faucet, and
remove cartridge. Install replacement a utility knife. Coat new O-rings with tighten with channel-type pliers. Attach
cartridge so that tab on cartridge heatproof grease, and install. the handle, handle screw, and index cap.
faces forward .

I Fixing Compression Faucets
C ompression faucets have separate co ntrol s fo r hot
and cold water and are ide ntifi ed by th e threaded
stem asse mbli es ins ide th e fauc et body. Compression
stems come in many djfferent sty les, but a ll have so me
type of neoprene was her or seal to cont rol water flow.
Comp ress ion faucets leak wh en ste m washers a nd
seals become wo rn.
Older compress ion faucets often have co rroded
hand les that a re di fficu lt to remove. A spec ia lty tool
call ed a han dl e puller makes this job eas ier. Handle
pullers may be avai lable at ren tal centers .
\I\fhen replacing washers, also check the co ndition of
th e metal valve seats inside the faucet body. If th e valve
seats feel rough, they should be replaced or resurfaced.
Remember to turn off the water befo re
beginning wo rk.
Screwdri ve r Seat wrench or seat-

Handle puller dressing tool (if needed)
(if needed) Universal was her kit
C hanne l-type Packing string
pliers Heatproof grease
Utiljty knife Replacement valve seats
(if needed)
Universal washer kit contains parts needed to fix most A compression faucet has a stem assembly that includes a
types of compression faucets. Choose a kit that has an retaining nut, threaded spindle, O-ring, stem washer, and stem
assortment of neoprene washers, O-rings, packing washers, screw. Dripping at the spout occurs when the washer becomes
and brass stem screws. worn. Leaks around the handle are caused by a worn O-ring.

Tips for Fixing a Compression Faucet ｾ＠
Remove stubborn handles with a handle puller. packing string is used instead of an O-ring on some
Remove the faucet index cap and handle screw, and faucets. To fix leaks around the faucet handle, wrap new
clamp the side bars of the puller under the handle. Thread packing string around the stem, just underneath the
the puller into the faucet stem, and tighten until the packing nut or retaining nut.
handle comes free.
I Three Common Types of Compression Stems
Standard stem has a brass stem Tophat stem has a snap-on neoprene Reverse-pressure stem has a beveled
screw that holds either a flat or beveled diaphragm instead of a standard washer. washer at the end of the spindle. To
neoprene washer to the end of the Fix leaks by replacing the diaphragm. replace washer, unscrew spindle from
spindle. If stem screw is worn, it should rest of the stem assembly. Some stems
be replaced. have a small nut that holds washer.

I How to Fix a Compression Faucet
Index cap
ｾＭ
Remove index cap from top of faucet handle, and remove Unscrew the stem assembly from body of faucet, using
handle screw. Remove handle by pulling straight up. If channel-type pliers. Inspect valve seat for wear, and replace
necessary, use a handle puller to remove handle (page 329). or resurface as needed (page opposite). If faucet body or
stems are badly worn, it usually is best to replace the faucet.
Retaining
3 4 nut 5
--r-Stem
spindle
Brass Stem
stem washer
screw
Remove the brass stem screw Unscrew the threaded spindle from cut off O-ring and replace with an
from the stem assembly. Remove worn the retaining nut. exact duplicate. Install new washer
stem washer. and stem screw. Coat all parts with
heatproof grease, then reassemble
the faucet.

I How to Replace Worn Valve Seats
1
Seat wrench
Check valve seat for damage by running a fingertip around Remove valve seat, using a seat wrench. Select end
the rim of the seat. If the valve seat feels rough, replace the of wrench that fits seat, and insert into faucet. Turn
seat, or resurface it with a seat-dressing (reamer) tool (below). counterclockwise to remove seat, then install an exact
duplicate. If seat cannot be removed, resurface with a
seat-dressing tool (below).
I How to Resurface Valve Seats
Cutter head
Select cutter head to fit the inside diameter of retaining nut. Screw reta ining nut loosely into faucet body. Press the
Slide retaining nut over threaded shaft of seat-dressing tool, tool down lightly and turn tool handle clockwise two or three
then attach the locknut and cutter head to the shaft. rotations. Reassemble faucet.

I Fixing Disc Faucets
diSC faucet has a single handle and is identified
A by the wide cylinder inside the faucet body. The
cylinder contains a pair of closely fitting ceramic discs
that control the flow of water.
A ceramic disc faucet is a top-quality fixtme that
is easy to repair. Leaks usually can be fixed by lifting
out the cylinder and clean ing the neoprene seals and
the cylinder openings. Install a new cy linder only if
the faucet continues to leak after c leaning.
After making repairs to a disc faucet, make sure
handle is in the ON position, then open the shutoff
valves slowly. Otherwise, ceram ic discs can be cracked
by the sudden release of air from the faucet. When
water runs stead il y, close the faucet.
beginning work.
Screwdriver Replacement cylinder

Fiber abrasive pad (if needed).
Replacement cylinder for disc faucet is necessary only if Disc faucet has a sealed cylinder containing two closely
faucet continues to leak after cleaning. Continuous leaking is fitting ceramic discs. Faucet handle controls water by sliding
caused by cracked or scratched ceramic discs. Replacement the discs into alignment Dripping at the spout occurs when
cylinders come with neoprene seals and mounting screws. the neoprene seals or cylinder openings are dirty.

I How to Fix a Ceramic Disc Faucet
Rotate faucet spout to the side, and Remove the escutcheon cap. Remove the neoprene seals from
raise the handle. Remove the setscrew Remove cartridge mounting screws, and the cylinder openings.
and lift off the handle. lift out the cylinder.
Clean the cylinder openings and the Return seals to the cylinder openings, Install a new cylinder only if the
neoprene seals with an abrasive pad. and reassemble faucet. Move handle to faucet continues to leak after cleaning
Rinse cylinder with clear water. ON position, then slowly open shutoff
valves. When water runs steadily,
close faucet.

I Replacing a Sink Faucet
I nstalling a new faucet is an easy project that takes
about one hour. Before buying a new faucet,
first find the diameter of the sink openings, and
If water pipes underneath the sink do not have shutoff
valves , you may choose to insta ll the va lves wh il e
replacing the faucet.
then measure the distance between the tailpieces Remember to turn off the water before
(measured on-center). Make sure the tailpieces of the beginning work.
new faucet match the sink openings.
\,lJh en shopping for a new faucet, choose a model
made by a reputable manufacturer. Replacement
parts for a we ll-known brand wi ll be easy to find if the
faucet ever needs repairs. Better faucets have solid Tools & Materials ｾ＠
brass bodies. They are easy to install and provide years
of trouble-free service. Some washerl ess models have Basin wrench or Penetrating oil
lifet im e warrant ies. channel-type pliers Si li cone cau lk or
Always install new supply tubes when replacing a Putty knife plumber's putty
faucet. Old suppl y tubes should not be reused. Most Caulk gun Two flexible
codes accept the use of manufactured PB plastic Adjustable wrenches supply tubes
supply tubes for exposed , unders ink supply tubes.
/ Sprayer head
/ Handle mount
Sprayer base
Shutoff valve

I How to Remove an Old Sink Faucet
spray penetrating oil on tai lpiece Remove the tailpiece mounting nuts Remove faucet. Use a putty knife
mounting nuts and supply tube coupling with a basin wrench or channel-type to clean away old putty from surface
nuts. Remove the coupling nuts with a pliers. Basin wrench has a long handle of sink.
basin wrench or channel-type pliers. that makes it easy to work in tight areas.
I Faucet Hookup Variations
New faucet without supply tubes: Buy two supply tubes. New faucet with preattached copper supply tubing:
Supply tubes are available in braided steel or vinyl mesh Make water connections by attaching the supply tubing
(shown above), PB plastic (acceptable by most codes for directly to the shutoff valves with compression fittings
exposed supply lines), or chromed copper.

I How to Install a New Sink Faucet
Apply a %" bead of silicone caulk or plumber's putty around the base of the faucet. Insert the faucet tailpieces into the sink
openings Position the faucet so base is parallel to back of sink, and press the faucet down to make sure caulk forms a good seal.
Screw the metal friction washers Connect flexible supply tubes to Attach supply tubes to shut-off
and the mounting nuts onto the faucet tailpieces. Tighten coupling valves, using compression fittings (pages
tailpieces, then tighten with a basin nuts with a basin wrench or 300 to 301). Hand-tighten nuts, then use
wrench or channel-type pliers. Wipe away channel-type pliers. an adjustable wrench to tighten nuts
excess caulk around base of faucet. 'I, turn. If necessary, hold valve with
another wrench while tightening.

I How to Connect a Faucet with Preattached Supply Tubing
Attach faucet to sink by placing rubber gasket, retainer Connect preattached supply tubing to shutoff valves
ring, and locknut onto threaded tailpiece. Tighten locknut with with compression fittings (pages 300 to 301). Red-coded tube
a basin wrench or channel-type pliers. Some center-mounted should be attached to the hot water pipe, blue-coded tube to
faucets have a decorative coverplate Secure coverplate the cold water pipe.
from underneath with washers and locknuts screwed onto
coverplate bolts.
I How to Attach a Sink Sprayer
Apply a %" bead of plumber's putty or Place friction washer over tailpiece. Screw sprayer hose onto the hose
silicone caulk to bottom edge of sprayer Screw the mounting nut onto tailpiece nipple on the bottom of the faucet.
base. Insert tailpiece of sprayer base and tighten with a basin wrench or Tighten % turn, using a basin wrench or
into sink opening channel-type pliers. Wipe away excess channel-type pliers
putty around base of sprayer.

I Installing Shutoff Valves & Supply Tubes
Shutoff valves allow you to shut off the water to an individual Supply tubes are used to connect water pipes to faucets,
fixture so it can be repaired They can be made from durable toilets, and other fixtures. They come in 12",20", and 30"
chromed brass or lightweight plastic. Shutoff valves come in lengths. PB plastic and chromed copper tubes are inexpensive.
y," and 3j," diameters to match common water pipe sizes. Braided steel and vinyl mesh supply tubes are easy to install.
W orn-out shutoff va lves or supply tubes ca n cause

wate r to leak und erneath a sink or other fixture.
I How to Install Shutoff
F irst, try t ighte nin g the fitt ings with a n adjustable Valves & Supply Tubes
wrenc h. If this does not fix the lea k, rep lace the
shutoff va lves and s upply tubes.
Shutoff valves are available in several fitting types.
Fo r co pper pipes, va lves with co mpress ion -type fittings
are eas iest to insta ll. Fo r plastic pipes, use grip-type
valves. For galvan ized iron pipes, use valves with
fem ale threads.
Older plumb ing syste ms often we re install ed
without fixt ure shutoff valves. When repa iring or
rep lac in g p lu mbing fixtures, you may wa nt to insta ll
shutoff valves if they are not already present.
Hacksaw Felt -ti pped pen

Turn off water at the main shutoff valve. Remove old supply
Tub ing cutter Shutoff valves
pipes. If pipes are soldered copper, cut them off just below the
Adjustab le wre nch Supply tubes soldered joint, using a hacksaw or tubing cutter. Make sure the
Tubing bender Pipe joint co mpound cuts are straight. Unscrew the coupling nuts and discard the
old pipes.

Slide a compression nut and Apply pipe joint compound to Bend chromed copper supply tube
compression ring over copper water the threads of the shutoff valve to reach from the tailpiece of the fixture
pipe. Threads of nut should face end or compression nut. Screw the to the shutoff valve, using a tubing
of pipe. compression nut onto the shutoff valve bender. Bend the tube slowly to avoid
and tighten with an adjustable wrench. kinking the metal.
Position the supply tube between fixture tailpiece and Attach bell-shaped end of supply tube to fixture tailpiece
shutoff valve, and mark tube to length. Cut supply tube with a with coupling nut, then attach other end to shutoff valve with
tubing cutter. compression ring and nut (pages 300 to 301). Tighten all fittings
with adjustable wrench.

I Fixing Sprayers & Aerators
I f water pressme from a sink sprayer seems low, or
if water leaks from the handle , it is usually because
lim e buildup and sed im ent have blocked small
open in gs in side the sprayer head. To fix the problem, Screwdriver Universal was her kit
first take the sprayer head apart and c lean the parts. If Channel-type pliers Heatproof grease
clean ing the sprayer head does not he lp, th e problem Needlenose pliers Replacement
may be caused by a faulty diverter va lve. The diverter Small brush sprayer hose
valve ins ide the faucet body shifts wate r flow from the Vin egar
faucet spout to the sprayer whe n the sp t'ayer handl e is
pressed. C lea ning or replacing the diverter valve may
fix water pressure problems.
\,yh enever making repairs to a sink sprayer, check
the sprayer hose for kinks or cracks. A damaged hose
shou ld be replaced.
If water pressure from a faucet spout seems
low, or if th e flow is partiall y blocked, take th e spout
aerator apart and clea n the parts. The aerator is a
screw-on attachment with a small wire screen that
mixes t in y a ir bubbles into the water flow. Make sure
the wire screen is not c logged with sed im ent and
lime buildup. If water pressure is low throughout th e
house, it may be because galvanized iron water pipes Clean faucet aerators and sink sprayers to fix most low
are corroded. Corroded pipes shou ld be replaced water-pressure problems. Take aerator or sprayer head apart,
with copper. then use a small brush dipped in vinegar to remove sediment.

I How to Fix a Diverter Valve
Shut off the water. Remove the Pull diverter valve from faucet body Replace any worn O-rings or
faucet handle and the spout (see with needlenose pliers. Use a small washers if possible. Coat the new parts
directions for your faucet type, pages brush dipped in vinegar to clean lime with heatproof grease, then reinstall
322 to 333) buildup and debris from valve. the diverter valve and reassemble
the faucet.
I How to Replace a Sprayer Hose
Shut off the water. Unscrew sprayer Unscrew the sprayer head from the Remove retaining clip with
hose from faucet sprayer nipple, using handle mount. Remove washer. needle-nose pliers; discard old hose.
channel-type pliers. Pull sprayer hose Attach handle mount, retaining clip,
through sink opening. washer, and sprayer head to new hose.
Attach sprayer hose to faucet sprayer
nipple on faucet.

I Tub & Shower Plumbing
T ub and shower fauc ets have the same basic designs
as sink faucets , and the techniques for repairing
leaks are the same as described in the faucet repair
section of this book (pages 322 to 333). To identify
your faucet design, you may have to take off the
handle and disassemble the faucet.
When a tub and shower are comb ined, the
showerhead and the tub spout share the same hot and
co ld water supply lin es and handl es . Combination
faucets are avai lable as three-handle, two-handle, or
single-hand le types (below). The number of handles
gives clues as to the design of the faucets and the
kinds of repairs that may be necessary.
I Tub & Shower

Combination Faucets
\,
Showerhead
Three-handle faucet (pages 344 to 345) has valves that are

either compression or cartridge design

With combination faucets, a dive rter valve or gate diverter set in a tub spout, replace the entire spout
diverter is used to direct water flow to the tub spout (page 347 ).
or the showerhead. On three-handle faucet types , the Tub and shower faucets and diverter valves may
middle handle controls a diverter valve. If water does be set inside wall cavities. Removing them may require
not shift eas il y from tub to showerhead, or if water a deep-set ratchet wrench (page 347).
continues to run out the spout when the shower is on, If spray from the showerhead is un eve n, clean
the diverter va lve probably needs to be cleaned and the spray holes. If the showerhead does not stay in
repaired (page 345). an upright position, remove the head and replace the
Two-hand le and single-hand le types use a gate O-ring (page 350).
diverter that is operated by a pull lever or knob on To add a shower to an ex isting tub , install
the tub spout. Alth ough gate diverters rarely need a flexible shower adapter (page 351). Several
repair, the leve r occasionally may break, come loose, manufacturers make complete conversion kits that
or refuse to stay in the UP position. To repair a gate allow a shower to be in sta lled in less than one hour.
Two-handle faucet has valves that are either compression Single-handle faucet has valves that are cartridge, ball-type,
or cartridge design. or disc design

I Fixing Three-handle Tub & Shower Faucets
three- ha ndl e faucet type has two ha ndl es to
A control hot a nd cold wa te r, a nd a third ha ndl e to
control th e diverte r valve and direc t water to e ith e r
a tub spout or a shower head. Th e se pa rate hot a nd Sc rewdri ver

cold ha ndl es indi cate ca rtridge or co mpress ion fa ucet Adjustable wrench or channel-type pliers
des igns. To repa ir the m, see pages 332 to 333 for Dee p-se t ratc het wre nch
cartridge, a nd 33 0 to 33 1 for compress ion. SmaJi wire brush
If a di verter va lve sticks, if wate r fl ow is wea k, or Repl aceme nt diverter ca rtridge or uni versa l
if wa te r run s ou t of the t ub spo ut whe n th e flo w is was her kit
direc ted to the sh owe rh ea d , the di ve rte r need s to be Hea tproof grease
re paired or replaced. Most dive rte r valves are simil ar Vinega r
to e ithe r co mpress ion or cartrid ge fa ucet valves .
C ompress ion -type diverte rs ca n be repa ired, but
ca rtridge types should be re placed.
Re me mber to turn off the wa te r be fore
beginning wo rk.

I How to Repair a Compression Diverter Valve
1 2 3
Bonnet
Remove the diverter valve handle Remove bonnet nut with Unscrew the stem assembly, using
with a screwdriver. Unscrew or pry off an adjustable wrench or a deep-set ratchet wrench. If necessary,
the escutcheon . channel-type pliers. chip away any mortar surrounding the
bonnet nut (page 347, step 2).
Remove brass stem screw. Replace Unscrew threaded spindle from Clean sediment and lime build-up
stem washer with an exact duplicate. If retaining nut. from nut, using a small wire brush
stem screw is worn, replace it. dipped in vinegar. Coat all parts with
heatproof grease, and reassemble
diverter valve.

I Fixing Two-handle Tub & Shower Faucets
T wo- handl e tub a nd shower faucets are e ither
cartridge or co mpress ion des ign. T hey may be
repaired following the directions on pages 332 to 333
If the diverter fails to wo rk properly, rep lace the tub
spout. Tub spouts are ine;..-pensive and easy to replace.
Reme mbe r to turn off the water before
for cartridge, or pages 330 to 331 for compl·ession. beginning work.
Because the va lves of two-handle tub and showe r
fauc ets may be set insid e th e wa ll cavity, a deep-set
socket wrench may be req uired to remove the Tools & Materials ｾ＠
va lve stem.
Two- hand le tub a nd showe r des igns have a gate Screwdriver Dee p-set
diverter. A gate di verter is a s imple mechani sm located Allen wre nch ratche t wre nc h
in th e tub spo ut. A gate di verte r closes th e supply Pipe wre nch Masking tape or cloth
of wa te r to th e tub spout a nd redirects th e flo w to Channel-type pliers Pipe joint compound
the shower head. Gate dive rte rs seldom need re pa ir. Small cold chisel Replace me nt faucet
Occasionally, the lever may break, co me loose, or Ball -pee n hammer parts, as needed
refuse to stay in the UP position.
Gate diverter

Tips on Replacing a Tub Spout ｾ＠
Check underneath tub spout for Unscrew faucet spout. Use Spread pipe joint compound
a small access slot. The slot indicates a pipe wrench, or insert a large on threads of spout nipple before
the spout is held in place with an screwdriver or hammer handle into replacing spout.
Allen screw. Remove the screw, using the spout opening and turn spout
an Allen wrench. spout will slide off. counterclockwise.
I How to Remove a Deep-set Faucet Valve

1 ｍ｡ＬｾｫＺｩｮｧ＠ tape
Stem
nipple
Remove handle and unscrew Chip away any mortar surrounding Unscrew the bonnet nut with a
the escutcheon with channel-type the bonnet nut, using a ball-peen deep-set ratchet wrench. Remove
pliers. Pad the jaws of the pliers with hammer and a small cold chisel. the bonnet nut and stem from the
masking tape to prevent scratching faucet body.
the escutcheon.

I Fixing Single-handle Tub & Shower Faucets
Single- handl e tub and shower faucet has one va lve Gate di ve rte rs se ld om need repa ir. Occasiona ll y, the
A that controls both water flo w and te mperature.
Single-hand le faucets may be ball-type, cartridge, or
lever may brea k, come loose, or refuse to stay in the
UP position. If the diverter fails to work properl y,
disc designs. replace the tub spout (page 34 7) .
If a single- handl e control va lve lea ks or does
not function properly, disa sse mble th e fauc et, c lea n
the valve, and replace any wo rn parts. Use the
repair techniques described on pages 324 to 32 5 Tools & Materials ｾ＠
for ball-type, or pages 332 to 333 fo r ceramic disc.
Repairing a single-handl e cartridge faucet is shown on Screwdriver Replacement faucet
the opposite page. Adjustab le wrench parts, as needed
Direction of th e water flow to either th e tub spout C hann e l-type pli e rs
or th e showerhead is controll ed b y a gate diverte r.

I How to Repair a Single-handle Cartridge Tub & Shower Faucet
1 2 Built-in shutoff valves 3 Bonnet nut
Escutcheon
Use a screwdriver to remove the Turn off water supply at built-in Unscrew and remove retaining ring or
handle and escutcheon. shutoff valves or main shutoff valve. bonnet nut, using an adjustable wrench.
4 5
Cartridge
O-ring
Remove cartridge assembly by grasping end of valve with Flush valve body with clean water to remove sediment.
channel-type pliers and pulling gently. Replace any worn O-rings. Reinstall cartridge and test valve. If
faucet fails to work properly, replace the cartridge.

I Fixing & Replacing Showerheads
I f spray from t he showe rh ead is un even , c lea n
th e spray holes . T he outl et or inle t hol es of the
showe rhead may get clogged with min eral de posits. Shower arm
Showe rh eads pi vot into diffe re nt pos iti ons. If a
showe rhead does not stay in pos ition , or if it lea ks,
re place th e O-ring that sea ls aga in st th e swivel ball. Collar nut
A tub can b e equipped with a sh ower by in stallin g
a fl ex ibl e shower adapte r kit. C omplete kits are
ava ila bl e at ha rd wa re stores a nd hom e ce nte rs .
V Swivel ball nut
Spray adjustment
cam lever
Tools & Materials ｾ＠ Swivel ball
Adju stabl e wre nc h T hin wire

or cha nn el-type (pape r clip)
pli e rs I-Ieatproof grease
Pipe wre nch Rag
Drill Replace ment O-rings
G lass & til e bit (iF needed )
(if needed ) M asonry a nch ors Spray outlets
Mallet Fl ex ibl e showe r
Sc rewdri ver adapte r kit A typical showerhead can be disassembled easily for cleaning
Mas king tape (option a l) and repair Some showerheads include a spray adjustment cam
lever that is used to change the force of the spray.
I How to Clean & Repair a Showerhead
Unscrew the swivel ball nut, using Clean outlet and inlet holes of Replace the Q-ring, if necessa ry.
an adjustable wrench or channel-type showerhead with a thin wi re. Flush the Lubri cate the O-ring with heatproof
pliers. Wrap jaws of the tool with masking head with clean wate r grease before instal ling.
tape to prevent marri ng the finish.
Unscrew col lar nut from the showerhead .
350 • T H E COI\ IP LETE PHOTO GU IDE TO HOI\ IE REPA IR

I How to Install a Flexible Shower Adapter
2
l\o.apter hose outlet
Flexible
shower
hose
Remove old tub spout (page 347). Attach flexible shower hose to Determine location of showerhead
Install new tub spout from kit, using a the adaptor hose outlet. Tighten hanger. Use hose length as a guide, and
pipe wrench. New spout will have an with an adjustable wrench or make sure shower-head can be easily
adapter hose outlet. Wrap the tub spout channel-type pliers. lifted off hanger.
with a rag to prevent damage to the
chrome finish.
4 6
..
Mark hole locations. Use a glass and Insert anchors into holes, and Fasten showerhead holder to the
tile bit to drill holes in ceramic tile for tap into place with a wooden or wall, and hang showerhead .
masonry anchors. rubber mallet.

I Common Toilet Problems
clogged toilet is one of th e most common A rec urring puddle of wa te r on the floor around
A plumbing proble ms. If a toil et overflows or flu sh es
sluggishly, clear the clog with a plunger or closet auger
a toile t may be caused by a crack in th e toil et base
or in the tank. A damaged toil et should be replaced.
(page 374). If the problem persists, the clog may be in Installin g a new toilet is a n easy project that can be
the main waste-ve nt sta c k (page 380 ). fini shed in three or four hours.
Most other toile t proble ms a re fix ed eas il y with A standard two- piece toil et has an upper ta nk
minor adjustments that require no disasse mbl y or that is bolted to a base. This type of toil et uses a
re placement parts. You can make these adjustments in s impl e gravity-o perated flush system and can be
a few minutes, using s impl e tools (page 356). re paired eas il y using the direc tion s on th e following
If minor adjustments do not fix th e proble m, pages . So me one-piece toil ets use a co mplicated,
furth e r repa irs will be needed. The parts of a standard high-press ure flush va lve. High- press ure toil ets can
toil et are not difficult to take apart, a nd most re pair be adjusted, but replacing va lves should be clone by
projects can be completed in less tha n an hour. a profess ional.
Problems Repairs
Toilet handle sticks or is hard to push. 1. Adjust lift wires (page 354).
2. Clean & adjust handle (page 354).
Handle is loose. 1. Adjust handle (page 354).
2. Reattach lift chain or lift wires to lever (page 354).
Toilet will not flush at all. 1. Make sure water is turned on.
2. Adjust lift chain or lift wires (3 54).
\ ｾ＠ ,r Toilet does not flush completely. 1. Adjust lift chain (page 354).
2. Adjust water level in tank (page 356).
3. Increase pressure on pressure-assisted toilet (page 362).
Toilet overflows or flushes sluggishly. 1. Clear clogged toilet (page 374).
2. Clear clogged main waste-vent stack (page 380).
Toilet runs continuously. 1. Adjust lift wires or lift chain (page 354).
2. Replace leaky float boll.
3. Adjust water level in tank (page 356).
4. Adjust and clean flush valve (page 359).
5. Replace flush valve (page 359).
6. Repair or replace ballcock (page 358).
7. Service pressure-assist valve (page 362).
Water on floor around toilet. 1. Tighten tank bolts and water connections (page 360).
2. Insulate tank to prevent condensation (page 360).
3. Replace wax ring (page 361).
4. Replace cracked tank or bowl (pages 364 to 366).

Howa toilet works: When the handle (1) is pushed, the lift chain raises a rubber seal, called a flapper, or tank ball (2). Water in
the tank rushes down through the flush valve opening (3) in the bottom of the tank, into the toilet bowl (4). Waste water in the bowl
is forced through the trap (5) into the main drain (6). When the toilet tank is empty, the flapper seals the tank, and a water supply
valve, called a ballcock (7). refills the toilet tank. The ballcock is controlled by a float ball (8) that rides on the surface of the water.
When the tank is full, the float ball automatically shuts off the ballcock.

I Making Minor Adjustments
M a ny co mmon toilet problems ca n be fixed by
making minor adju stme nts to th e ha ndl e and the
attached lift cha in (or lift wires) .
If the handle sticks or is ha rd to push , remove the
tank cover and c lea n the ha ndl e mounting nut. Make
sure the lift wires are stra ight.
If the toilet will not flu sh completely unle ss the
handl e is he ld down, yo u may have to remove excess
slack in th e lift c ha in.
If the toil et will not flu sh at all , th e lift chain may be
broke n or may have to be reattached to th e ha ndle lever.
A continuou sly running toil et (page opposite ) ca n
be ca used by bent lift wires, kinks in a lift cha in, or lim e
buildup on the handle mounting nut. Clea n and adjust
the handle and the lift wires or c hain to fix the proble m.
Adju stable wre nch Small wire bru sh

Nee dl e nose pliers Vinegar
Screwdriver
I How to Adjust a Toilet Handle & Lift Chain (or Lift Wires)
Guide arm
Clean and adjust handle mounting nut Adjust lift chain so it hangs straight Adjust lift wires (found on toilets
so handle operates smoothly Mounting from handle lever, with about W' of without lift chains) so that wires are
nut has reversed threads. Loosen nut slack. Remove excess slack in chain by straight and operate smoothly when
by turning clockwise; tighten by turn ing hooking the chain in a different hole in handle is pushed. A sticky handle often
counterclockwise. Remove lime buildup the handle lever or by removing links can be fixed by straightening bent
with a brush dipped in vinegar with needlenose pliers. A broken lift lift wires.
chain must be replaced.

I Fixing a Running Toilet
T he sound of continuously running water occurs if
fresh water continues to enter the toil et tank after
the flu sh cyc le is complete. A running toilet can waste
20 or more gallon s of fres h water eac h day.
To fix a running toilet, first jiggl e the toilet handl e.
If the sound of running water stops, then e ith er th e
handle or the lift wires (or lift chain ) need to be
adjusted (page opposite ).
If the sound of running wate r does not stop when
th e h an dl e is jiggled, then remove the tank cover and
check to see if the float ball is tou ching the sid e of
the tank. If nece ssary, bend the float arm to repos iti on
the float ball away from the s ide of the tank. Make
sure the float ball is not leakin g. To ch eck for leaks,
un sc rew the float ball and shake it ge ntl y. If there is
water insid e the ba ll , rep lace it.
If these minor adjustments do not fix the problem,
th e n yo u will h ave to adjust or repair th e ball cock or
the flu sh valve (photo, right). Fo llow the directions on
the following pages.
Screwdri ver Ballcock (if needed ) The sound of continuously running water can be caused
S mall wire brush Ballcock seals by several different problems: the lift wire (1) (or lift chain) is
Spon ge E mery cloth bent or kinked; the float ball (2) leaks or rubs against the side
of the tank; a faulty ballcock (3) does not shut off the fresh
Adjustable wre nc hes Fibe r ab ras ive pad
water supply; or the flush valve (4) allows water to leak down
Spud wrench or Flapper or tank ball into the toilet bowl. First, check the lift wires and float ball. If
channel-type pliers Flush valve making simple adjustments and repairs to these parts does
Universal was he r kit (if needed) not fix the problem, then you will have to repair the ballcock or
flush valve (photo, below).
Refill tube Check the overflow pipe if the sound of

running water continues after the float ball
and lift wires are adjusted. If you see water
flowing into the overflow pipe, the ballcock
must be repaired First adjust ballcock to
lower the water level in the tank (page
356) If problem continues, repair or
replace the ballcock (page 358). If water is
not flowing into the overflow pipe, then the
flush valve must be repaired (page 359).
First check the tank ball (or flapper) for
wear, and replace if necessary. If problem
Overflow pipe continues, replace the flush valve.
Syst.e ms Repai rs • 355

I How to Adjust a Ballcock to Set water Level
2
Float arm
Traditional plunger-valve ballcock is made of brass. Water Diaphragm ballcock usually is made of plastic and has
flow is controlled by a plunger attached to the float arm and a wide bonnet that contains a rubber diaphragm. Turn the
ball. Lower the water level by bending the float arm downward adjustment screw clockwise to raise the water level. Turn it
slightly. Raise the water level by bending float arm upward. counterclockwise to lower the water level. Bend the float arrn
to make larger adjustments, if necessary.
Adjustment
screw
Float cup ballcock is made of plastic and is easy to adjust. Floatless ballcock controls water level with a
Lower the water level by pinching spring clip on pull rod and pressure-sensing device. Turn the adjustment screw clockwise,
moving float cup downward on the ballcock shank. Raise the '/, turn at a time, to raise the water level; counterclockwise to
water level by moving the cup upward lower it. Note.' Floatless ballcocks are no longer allowed by
code and should be replaced.

I How to Repair a Plunger-valve Ballcock
Shut off the water, and flush to Pull up on the plunger to remove Install replacement washers. Clean
empty the tank. Remove the wing nuts it. pry out packing washer or O-ring. sediment from inside of ballcock with a
on the ballcock. Slip out the float arm. Pry out plunger washer. (Remove stem wire brush. Reassemble ballcock.
screw, if necessary.)
I How to Repair a Diaphragm Ballcock
Shut off the water, and flush to Lift off float arm with bonnet Replace any stiff or cracked parts.
empty the tank. Remove the screws attached. Check diaphragm and plunger If assembly is badly worn, replace the
from the bonnet. for wear. entire ballcock.
I How to Repair a Float Cup Ballcock
Shut off the water, and flush to empty Remove bonnet by pushing down on Replace the seal. If assembly is badly
the tank. Remove the ballcock cap. shaft and turning counterclockwise. worn, replace the entire ballcock.
Clean out sediment inside ballcock with
wire brush.

I How to Install a New Ballcock
1
Locking
Shut off water, and flush toilet to Loosen the shank locking on the Attach a cone washer to the new
empty tank. Use a sponge to remove new ballcock. Adjust the shank until the ballcock, and insert the tailpiece into the
remaining water. Disconnect supply top of the ballcock is 1" from the top of tank opening.
tube coupling nut and ballcock the tank. Tighten the locking.
mounting nut with adjustable wrench.
Remove old ballcock.
4 5
Screw in the float arm and align it so it passes in front of Screw the mounting nut and the supply tube coupling nut
the overflow pipe. Screw on the float ball. Position the refill onto ballcock tailpiece. Tighten them. Turn on the water and
tube so it fits inside the overflow pipe. check for leaks.

I How to Adjust & Clean a Flush Valve
Guide
Adjust tank ball (or flapper) so it is Replace the tank ball if it is cracked Replace flapper if it is worn. Flappers
directly over flush valve. Tank ball has a or worn. Tank balls have a threaded are attached to small lugs on the sides
guide arm that can be loosened so that fitting that screws onto the lift wire. of overflow pipe.
tank ball can be repositioned. (Some Clean opening of the flush valve, using
tank balls have a ball guide that helps emery cloth (for brass valves) or a fiber
seat the tank ball into the flush valve.) abrasive pad (for plastic valves).
I How to Install a New Flush Valve
Spud nut
Shut off water, disconnect ballcock Slide cone washer onto tailpiece of Screw spud nut onto tailpiece of flush
(page opposite, step 1), and remove new flush valve. Beveled side of cone valve, and tighten with a spud wrench
toilet tank (page 361, steps 1 and 2). washer should face end of tailpiece. or channel-type pliers. Place soft spud
Remove old flush valve by unscrewing Insert flush valve into tank opening so washer over tailpiece, and reinstall
spud nut with spud wrench or that overflow pipe faces ballcock. toilet tank.
channel-type pliers.

I Fixing a Leaking Toilet
W ate r lea king onto the fl oo r a roun d a to il e t may
be ca used by seve ral diffe re nt pro ble ms. Th e
lea king mu st be fixed as soo n as poss ibl e to preve nt
If th ese pa rts are not inc lud ed , yo u will have to
p urch ase th e m.
Building codes reguire th e in stall ation of
moistu re from da mag in g the subfl oor. 1. 6-gall on low- fl ow to il ets in all new constructi o n
First, ma ke sure a ll co nnect ions a re t ight. If and bat h room re mode ling projects . Refe r to page 364
moisture drips fro m th e ta nk du ring humid wea th er, it to 367 for toil e t installati on.
is probabl y conde nsation. Fix t hi s "sweating" problem
by insul at ing the in side of the ta nk with foa m pa nels.
A c rack in a toilet ta nk a lso ca n ca use lea ks. A c racked
tank mu st be repl aced. Tools & Materials ｾ＠
Wa te r seep in g around th e base of a toil et ca n be
caused by an old wax ring th at no longe r seals aga in st Spo nge Ta nk lin e r ki t
the drain (photo, above), or by a c racked toil et base. Adju sta bl e wre nc h Ab t'as ive c lea nse r
If leakin g occ urs during or just afte r a flu sh , re pl ace Putty k nife Rag
the wax ring. If leaking is co nstant, the to il et base is Ratche t wre nch Wax rin g
c rac ked a nd mu st be rep laced . New to il ets us ua ll y a re Sc rewd rive r Plumbe r's putty
sold with flu sh valves a nd ballcoc ks a lrea dy insta lled.
Toilet base
/ Wax ring
Horn
Drain
Tighten all connections slightly. Tighten nuts on tank bolts Insulate toilet tank to prevent "sweating," using a toilet liner
with a ratchet wrench. Tighten ballcock mounting nut and kit. First, shut off water, drain tank, and clean inside of tank
supply tube coupling nut with an adjustable wrench . Caution: with abrasive cleanser. Cut plastic foam panels to fit bottom,
overtightening tank bolts may crack the toilet tank. sides, front, and back of tank. Attach panels to tank with
adhesive (included in kit). Let adhesive cu re as directed.

I How to Remove a Toilet & Wax Ring
1 2 3
Tank boIt
Supply
tube
Turn off water, and flush to empty Remove the nuts from the tank bolts Pry off the floor bolt trim caps at
toilet tank. Use a sponge to remove with a ratchet wrench. Carefully remove the base of the toilet. Remove the floor
remaining water in tank and bowl. the tank and set it aside. nuts with an adjustable wrench.
Disconnect supply tube with an
adjustable wrench.
Straddle the toilet and rock the bowl Remove old wax from the toilet flange If old toilet will be reused, clean old
from side to side until the seal breaks. in the floor. Plug the drain opening with wax and putty from the horn and the
Carefully lift the toilet off the floor bolts a damp rag to prevent sewer gases base of the toilet. Note: Refer to pages
and set it on its side. Small amount of from rising into the house. 364 to 366 for toilet installation
water may spill from the toilet trap.

I Fixing a Pressure-assisted Toilet
P ress ure -ass isted toilets deve lop problems simil a r to
those of conventional toilets , such as continuously
running water a nd a weak flu sh. And while the ca uses ｨｾ｡Ｚｮ､ｬ･｟Ｍ｜［ｲ］＠
Flush
Air Vacuum
Flush valve
assembly
may be different, the repairs are just as easy.
Pressure-assisted toilets req uire a certa in leve l Pressure
tank
of wa ter-press ure- betwee n 20 a nd 80 psi- to
work properly. Pressure below that level can ca use
Discharge
a va ri ety of problem s; if yo u're havin g trouble with a extension
pressure-assisted toilet, th e first thing to c hec k is yo ur
hom e's water press ure.
If the sys te m's press ure is suffici e nt, c lea n the
wa te r intake sc ree n to e nsure max imum flo w into the
tank. If the pressure is weak, call a plumber or your
wate r utility for advice.
Before making a ny repairs to yo ur pressure-assisted
toilet, turn off th e wa ter at the fixture shut-off va lve
a nd flu sh the toile t to reli eve the press ure in th e tank.

Pressure-assisted toilets rely on pressure rather than
Adjustabl e wre nc h C hann e l-type pliers water volume to create an adequate flush. The handle is
Soft brush 5-ga llon bucket connected to a flush rod that pushes an actuator on the flush
valve cartridge to start the flush .
I How to Test & Improve water Pressure

1 3
,
Turn off the water at the shutoff valve Place the free end of the supply tube Place a bucket under the supply
and flush the toilet. Use an adjustable into a 5-gallon bucket. Mark the time, shank. Remove the shank mounting nut,
wrench or channel-type pliers to loosen then open the shut-off valve all the way and pull the supply assembly from the
the coupling nut connecting the water for 30 seconds. Close the valve and tank hole. Inspect the screen inside the
supply tube to the supply shank at the measure the amount of water: there shank, and clean it with a soft brush.
bottom of the tank. should be more than a gallon. Reconnect the shank and supply tube.
362 • THE COI\ IPLET E PHOTO GU ID E TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

I How to Stop Continuously Running water
2 3
Turn off water at the shutoff valve, Unscrew the flush valve Inspect the o-rings. If they are worn,
and flush the toilet. Lift up on the flush cartridge, using the handle ends of replace the cartridge. Reinstall the
rod: there should be a 'Is" gap between channel-type pliers. cartridge, and tighten it. Restore the
the rod and the top of the actuator. To water supply and let the tank refill.
adjust, loosen the setscrew and rotate If water runs after refill, depress the
the actuator up or down. actuator. If the flow stops, tighten the
cartridge in quarter-turns until the water
stops; if flow continues, loosen the
cartridge until the water stops.
I How to Correct a Weak Flow

3
With the water supply on, flush the Test the air inducer. Remove the Test for a leaking flush valve cartridge.
toilet by depressing the actuator. Once inducer cap, and flush the toilet. Look Turn off the water at the shutoff valve,
the unit begins the flush cycle, carefully inside the inducer to make sure that the and flush the toilet. Pour a cup of
raise the actuator. This flushes the plastic poppet retracts, and listen for water into the top of the cartridge, then
system with water to remove debris. air flow. If there is no flow, unscrew the restore the water supply. If you see
inducer, and clean the inducer, poppet, a stream of bubbles rising from the
spring, and cap. cartridge, replace it.

I Installing a Toilet
M OSt toilets in the low-to-moderate price range are
two-piece units , with a separate tank and bowl ,
made of vitreous china. One-piece toilets with integral
tank and bowl also are available, but the cost is usually
two or three times that of two-piece units.
Code regulations requiring low-flow (I.6 gallons
per flu sh) toilets have been on the books for years.
After some initial problems with inadequate flush
force, manufacturers have re-engineered the toilet
traps and flu sh mechanisms to maximize effic iency.
These new models work considerably better than
first-generation low-flow toilets from the 1980s to mid
'90s. Most are reasonably priced and well worth the
cost for eliminatin g aggravation (and double flushing).
Adjustable wrench Floor bolts

Ratchet wrench Tank bolts with
or basin wrench rubber washers
Screwdriver Seat bolts and
\l\Tax ri ng & sleeve mounting nuts Install a toilet by anchoring the bowl to the floor first, then
Plumber's putty mounting the tank onto the bowl. China fixtures crack easily, so
use care when handling them.
I How to Replace a Toilet

1 • - JJ
Wax ring
with flange
Rag-in-a-bag
-
Place a rag in a plastic sack. Slide new brass bolts into the Lower the new toilet down over the wax ring so the
slots on the closet flange, and rotate the bolts a 1j" turn so they bolts go through the holes on the bottom of the stool. Press
cannot be removed. Put the plastic keepers or extra washers down on the toilet to seat it in the wax ring and check for level.
and nuts on the bolts to secure the bolts to the flange. Unwrap If the bowl is not quite level, you can shim the low side with a
the wax ring and position it over the closet flange. few pennies. Thread was hers and nuts onto the floor bolts and
tighten them a little at a time, alternating. Do not overtighten.
Cut the bolts off above the nuts with a hacksaw and add
the caps Lay a bead of tub and tile caulk around the base of
the toilet.

3 4
Spud
washer
Attach the toilet tank. Some tanks come with a flush valve If necessary, adjust the fill valve as noted in the directions.
and a fill valve preinstalled, but if yours does not, insert the Fill valves can be adjusted to fit various tank sizes.
flush valve through the tank opening and tighten a spud nut
over the threaded end of the valve. Place a foam spud washer
on top of the spud nut.
5 Intermediate nut goes

between tank and bowl
Threaded fill
valve shank
Position the valve in the tank . Push down on the valve With the tank lying on its back, thread a rubber washer
shank (not the top) while hand-tightening the lock nut onto the onto each tank bolt and insert it into the bolt holes from inside
threaded valve shank (thread the nut on the exterior side of the tank. Then, thread a brass washer and hex nut onto the
tank). Hand-tighten only. tank bolts from below and tighten them to a quarter turn past
hand tight. Do not overtighten.
(continued)

7 8
Position the tank on the bowl, spud washer on opening, You may stabilize the bolts with a large slotted screwdriver
bolts through bolt holes. Put a rubber washer followed by a from inside the tank, but tighten the nuts, not the bolts. You
brass washer and a wing nut on each bolt and tighten these may press down a little on a side, the front, or the rear of
up evenly. the tank to level it as you tighten the nuts by hand. Do not
overtighten and crack the tank. The tank should be level and
stable when you're done.
9 10
Hook up the water supply by connecting the supply tube to Attach the toilet seat by threading the plastic or brass bolts
the threaded fill valve with the coupling nut provided. Turn on provided with the seat through the openings on the back of
the water and test for leaks. the rim and attaching nuts.

Macerating Toilets ｾ＠
When a toilet with conventional plumbing is not an Once all connections are made at the macerating
option, a macerating toilet may allow you to add a unit, place the toilet bowl in front of the unit so that
bathroom in a basement. Macerators grind and then the toilet spigot lines up with the accordion connector
eject waste through a '14' pipe into an existing drain pipe. on the macerating unit. Mark the location of the toilet
Most units will also handle waste water from a sink and bowl's mounting-screw holes. Remove the toilet and drill
a shower. appropriately sized holes for the toilet's mounting lag
Place the macerating unit in the desired location screws. Join the toilet to the macerating unit as directed
and make the connections to the 11j," diameter drain by the manufacturer, and secure the toilet to the floor. The
lines from the sink and tub or shower to the inlets on toilet tank connects to the bowl like a standard two-piece
the macerating unit. Also connect the 3/4' drain line from toilet. The water supply connection to the fill valve is also
the soil stack or a branch drain to the discharge port standard. Venting should be provided in accordance with
on the unit (you can use either copper or PVC pipe). local codes and the manufacturer's instructions.
The drain line may span up to 12 ft. vertically with some The macerating unit must be plugged in to a 120-volt
models, and it can be run as far as 150 ft. horizontally if GFCI-protected outlet (the outlet should be 40" away from
a V," per-foot drop is maintained . Read the instructions the unit). The unit will not function during a power outage.
carefully to learn the limits for your fixture, as well as Do not dispose of paper products (other than toilet paper)
how to factor in pressure drops that occur when the line in the macerating toilet system. Do not use bleach cakes
makes a bend. or other submerged tank-and-bowl cleaning products.
ｾｶ＠ 1'12" vent connected to

,,, ,,
,, existing DWV system
,, ,,
%" discharge
,, ,,
12' ｭ｡ｸｩｵＭ｟ｾＧＡ
,. )::::ＭＱ＠ ::: ::: ::: :::::: ｾｴＭ［ＮＺ＠ ",.-) .. ｾ＠ *GFCr receptacle 40"
,,
,, away from bath or shower.
::4 ,,' ,,,
,, A
'
, ,,
, [ I
c::::>
ｾ＠
40"
,
,' ,, _L.L
GFCr* /,i -----
,,
,' ,,,
"- 'iii
./
=
\J,,
,
( ,, ,, } '/ ....
Bathtub
,, -u- \ i' ｾｬＥＢ､ｲ｡ｩｮ＠
,•• ,,,• f=1 too,

_J.1 _______ ｾ＠
•
'
'-,
. ｾ＠
___ Macerating unit
ｾＮａ＠
, I
1%" drain '.

l DI IL
A typical macerating unit will support a toilet, a sink, a tub, and shower. This diagram shows pipe routes for a typical
installation. Check local codes before installing.

I Clearing Clogs & Fixing Drains
C lea r a c logged dmin with a plun ge r, ha nd a uge r,
or blow bag. A plunger breaks up clogs by forcin g
a ir press ure into th e drain lin e. Beca use a plunger
ava il abl e at ha rd wa re stores a nd supe nn a t-kets, will
di sso lve c logs, but th ey also may da mage pipes and
must be handled with ca uti on. Always read the
is effec ti ve a nd simpl e to use, it should be th e fi rst ma nufact ure r's directi ons comple tely.
c ho ice for c lea rin g a c log. Regul ar ma in te na nce he lps keep dt-a ins workin g
A ha nd a uger h as a fl ex ibl e steel cable th at is properly. Flu sh drains once each week with h ot
pushed into th e drain lin e to break up or remove tap wa te r to kee p th e m free of soap, grease, and
obstructi ons. An auger is easy to use, but for best de bri s. O r, treat d rain s once eve ry six mo nth s
res ul ts the use r mu st know th e "fee l" of the ca bl e in with a non-ca ustic (coppe r sulfid e- or sodium
th e dra in line . A little expe ri e nce ofte n is necessa ry to hydrox ide-based) dra in c lea ne r. A non-ca usti c clea ne r
te ll th e diffe re nce be tween a soap clog a nd a be nd in will not har m pipes _
th e dra in line (pages 372 to 373) . Occas iona lly, leaks may occ ur in th e dra in
A blow bag hooks to a ga rd e n h ose a nd uses wa ter lin es o r a round t he dra in ope nin g. M ost leaks in
press ure to clear clogs. Blow bags are most effective dra in lin es a re fixe d eas il y b y ge ntl y ti ghte nin g all
on clogs in fl oor drains (page 379). pipe co nn ectio ns. If t he leak is at t he s ink d ra in
Use ca usti c, ac id -based c he mi ca l dra in c lea ne rs ope nin g, fi x o r rep lace t he stra in e r body asse mbl y
only as a las t reso rt. These dra in clea ners, usua lly (page 37 1).
. ｾ＠ -
....
_-
... ,""
-

I Clearing Clogged Sinks
E ve lY sink has a dl'a in trap a nd a fi xture drain line.
Sink clogs usually are caused by a buildup of soap
and ha ir in the trap or fixture drain lin e, Remove clogs
by usin g a plunger, disconnecting and c leaning the
trap (page 370), or using a ha nd auger (pages 372
to 373) .
Many sinks hold water with a mecha nical plug
ca ll ed a pop-up stopper. If the s ink will not hold
sta nding wate r, or if wate r in the s ink drain s too slow ly,
th e pop-up stopper mu st be c lea ned and adju sted
(page 370)
Plun ger
C hannel-type pli e rs
S ma ll wire brush
Sc rewdri ver
Drain trap holds water that seals the drain line and prevents
Rag sewer gases from entering the home. Each time a drain is used,
Bucket the standing trap water is flushed away and replaced by new
Rep lacement gaskets water. The shape of the trap and fixture drain line may resemble
the letter P, and sink traps sometimes are called P-traps.
I How to Clear Sink Drains with a Plunger

1 2
Remove drain stopper. Some pop-up stoppers lift out Stuff a wet rag in sink overflow opening; rag prevents
directly; others turn counterclockwise. On some older types of air from breaking the suction of the plunger. Place plunger
stoppers, the pivot rod must be removed to free the stopper. cup over drain and run enough water to cover the rubber cup.
Move plunger handle up and down rapidly to break up the clog.

I How to Clean & Adjust a Pop-up Sink Drain Stopper
Retaining nut
Raise stopper lever to full upright Remove stopper, Clean debris from If sink does not drain properly,
(closed) position. Unscrew the retaining stopper, using a small wire brush. adjust clevis. Loosen clevis screw.
nut that holds pivot rod in position. Inspect gasket for wear or damage, and Slide clevis up or down on stopper rod
Pull pivot rod out of drain pipe to replace if necessary. Reinstall stopper. to adjust position of stopper. Tighten
release stopper. clevis screw.
I How to Remove & Clean a Sink Drain Trap

Slip nuts 2
drain line
Trap bend
Place bucket under trap to catch water and debris. Loosen Dump out debris. Clean trap bend with a small wire brush.
slip nuts on trap bend with channel-type pliers. Unscrew nuts Inspect slip nut washers for wear, and replace if necessary.
by hand and slide away from connections. Pull off trap bend. Reinstall trap bend, and tighten slip nuts.

I Fixing Leaky Sink Strainers
leak under a sink may be caused by a strainer
A body that is not properly sealed to the sink dra in
open ing. To check for leaks, close the drain stopper
and fi ll s ink w ith water. From underneath sink, inspect
the stra iner assemb ly for leaks.
Remove the stra iner body, clean it, and rep lace the
gaskets and plumber's putty. Or, replace the strainer
with a new one, avai lab le at home centers.
Channel-type pl iers Plumber's putty

Spud wrench Rep lacement pa rts
Hammer (if needed) Sink strainer assembly connects the sink to the drain line.
Putty knife Leaks may occur where the strainer body seals against the lip
of the drain opening.
I How to Fix a Leaky Strainer

2
Unscrew slip nuts from both ends of tailpiece, using Remove the locknut, using a spud wrench. Unscrew the
channel-type pliers. Disconnect tailpiece from strainer body locknut completely, and remove the strainer assembly. If
and trap bend. Remove tailpiece. necessary, cut the locknut.
Remove old putty from the drain opening, using a putty Apply a bead of plumber's putty to the lip of the drain
knife. If reusing the old strainer body, clean off old putty from opening. Press strainer body into drain opening. From under
under the flange Old gaskets and washers should be replaced the sink, place rubber gasket, then metal or fiber friction ring,
over strainer. Reinstall locknut and tighten. Reinstall tailpiece

I How to Clear a Fixture Drain Line with a Hand Auger
•
J\wger cable
Drain line
opening
Remove trap bend (page 370). Push the end of the auger Set the auger lock so that at least 6" of cable extends out of
cable into the drain line opening until resistance is met. This the opening. Crank the auger handle in a clockwise direction to
resistance usually indicates end of cable has reached a bend move the end of the cable past bend in drain line.
in the drain pipe.
Release the lock and continue pushing the cable into the opening until firm resistance is felt. Set the auger lock and crank the
handle in a clockwise direction. Solid resistance that prevents the cable from advancing indicates a clog. Some clogs, such as a
sponge or an accumulation of hair, can be snagged and retrieved (step 4). Continuous resistance that allows the cable to advance
slowly is probably a soap clog (step 5).

4
Hand grip
Pull an obstruction out of the line by releasing the auger lock and cranking the handle clockwise. If no object can be retrieved,
reconnect the trap bend and use the auger to clear the nearest branch drain line or main waste and vent stack (pages 380 to 381).
Continuous resistance indicates a soap clog. Bore through the clog by cranking the auger handle clockwise, while applying
steady pressure on the hand grip of the auger. Repeat the procedure two or three times, then retrieve the cable. Reconnect the
trap bend and flush the system with hot tap water to remove debris.

I Clearing Clogged Toilets
M Ost toi let clogs occu r beca use a n object is stuc k
inside th e toil et trap. Use a Ranged plunger or a
closet auger to re move th e clog.
A toilet that is slugg ish during the Rush cycle may
be pa rti a ll y blocked. C lea r t he bloc kage with a plu nger
or closet auger. Occasiona ll y, a slu ggish to ile t Ru sh
indi cates a blocked waste-vent stack. C lear the stack
as shown on page 38 1.
Flanged p lunger
C loset auger
Bucket
Toilet drain system has a drain outlet at the bottom of the
bowl and a built-in trap. The toilet drain is connected to a drain
line and a main waste-vent stack.
I How to Clear a Toilet I How to Clear a Toilet

with a Plunger with a Closet Auger
Place cup of flanged plunger over drain outlet opening. Place the auger bend in the bottom of the drain opening,
Plunge up and down rapidly. Slowly pour a bucket of water and push the auger cable into the trap. Crank the auger handle
into bowl to flush debris through drain. If toilet does not drain, in a clockwise direction to snag obstruction . Continue cranking
repeat plunging, or clear clog with a closet auger. while retrieving the cable to pull the obstruction out of the trap.

I Clearing Clogged Shower Drains
S howe r d r-a in c logs us ua ll y are ca used by an
acc umul ati on of ha ir in the dra in lin e. Re move th e
stra in er cove r a nd look for clogs in th e dra in ope nin g
(below). Some clogs are re moved eas il y wit h a pi ece of
stiff wire .
Stubbo rn c logs should be removed with a p lu nger
Sloped floor
or ha nd auge r.
Screwdri ver
Flashlight
Plun ger
Ha nd a uge r
Stiff wire
Shower drain system has a sloped floor, a drain opening,

a trap, and a drain line that connects to a branch drain line or
waste-vent stack.
I How to Clear a Shower Drain

2 3
, J
..•
Strainer cover ｾ＠
Check for clogs by removing strainer Use a plunger to clear most shower Clear stubborn clogs in the shower
cover, using a screwdriver Use a drain clogs. Place the rubber cup over drain with a hand auger. Use the auger
flashlight to look for hair clogs in the drain opening. Pour enough water as shown on pages 372 to 373.
the drain opening. Use a stiff wire to into the shower stall to cover the lip of
clear shower drain of hair or to snag the cup. Move plunger handle up and
any obstructions. down rapidly.

I Fixing Tub Drains
he n wa te r in the tub drains s lowly or not at all ,
W re move and inspec t the drain asse mbly. Both
plunger and pop-up type drain mechanism s catch hair Coverplate
a nd other debris that cause clogs.
If c lea ning the drain assemb ly does not fi x the
proble m, th e tub dra in lin e is clogged. C lea r th e lin e Trip lever
with a plunge r or a hand a uger. Always stuff a wet rag Overflow drain
in the overflow drai n ope ning before plun ging the tub
dra in. T he rag prevents air from brea king the s uct ion
of th e plunger. \,yh en usin g an auger, always in sert the
Linkage
cable down through the overflow drain opening.
If the tub will not hold wa te r with the dra in
closed, or if th e tub continues to dra in slowly afte r the
assembly has been clea ned, then th e drain assemb ly
needs adjustme nt. Re move the asse mbly, and follow Plunger
th e in stru ction s on the opposite page. Drain opening
Plun ge r Ha nd a uge r
Sc rewdri ver Vinega r
Plunger-type tub drain has a hollow brass plug, called a
S mall wire brush Heatproof grease plunger, that slides up and down inside the overflow drain to
Needle nose plie rs Rag seal off the water flow. The plunger is moved by a trip lever
and linkage that runs through the overflow drain.
Trip lever - --....,
Overflow drain /
Linkage
Drain opening
Drain stopper ----.r,..-
Pop-up tub drain has a rocke r arm that pivots to open or Clear a tub drain by running the auger cable through the
close a metal drain stopper. The rocker arm is moved by a trip overflow opening. First, remove the coverplate and carefu lly lift
lever and linkage that runs through the overflow drain. out the drain linkage (page opposite). Push auger cable into the
opening until resistance is felt (page 372). Afte r usi ng the auger,
replace drain linkage. Open drain and run hot water through
drain to flush out any debris.

I How to Clean & Adjust a Plunger-type Tub Drain
3
Locknut
Linkage
Plunger
Remove screws on coverplate. Clean linkage and plunger Adjust drain flow and fix leaks by
carefully pull coverplate, linkage, with a small wire brush dipped in adjusting linkage. Unscrew locknut on
and plunger from the overflow vinegar. Lubricate assembly with threaded lift rod, using needlenose
drain opening. heatproof grease. pliers. Screw rod down about %,'. Tighten
locknut and reinstall entire assembly.
I How to Clean & Adjust a Pop-up Tub Drain

1 Ｌｾ｜＠ 3
Coverplate--r- \
Trip lever
Rocker arm
ﾫＭ］ｾＯ＠ ..ＭＮ［ｾ＠

Locknut
ｾ＠
Stopper
Raise trip lever to the full open Remove screws from coverplate. Adjust drain flow and fix leaks by
position. Carefully pull stopper and Pull coverplate, trip lever, and linkage adjusting the linkage. Loosen locknut on
rocker arm assembly from drain from overflow drain. Remove hair and threaded lift rod and screw lift rod up
opening Clean hair or debris from debris. Remove corrosion with a small about %,' . Tighten locknut and reinstall
rocker arm with a small wire brush. wire brush dipped in vinegar. Lubricate entire assembly.
linkage with heatproof grease.

I Clearing Clogged Drum Traps
I n old er homes, c logs in bat hroo m s inks or bathtubs
may be ca used by bloc kage in the dra in lin es
co nn ec ted to a drum trap. Re move th e drum trap
cove r a nd use a ha nd auger to c lea r eac h dmin lin e.
Drum traps usua ll y a loe located in the fl oor
next to th e bathtub. Th ey are id e ntifi ed by a fl at,
sc rew-in type cove r or plug that is flu sh with th e fl oo r.
Occas io na ll y, a d rum trap will be pos itioned up side
down so t hat th e p lu g is access ibl e from be low.
Adju stabl e wre nc h

Hand a uge r
RaGs
b
or towels A drum trap is a can ister made of lead or cast iron. usually,
Pe netratin g oil more than one fixture drain line is connected to the drum.
Tefl on tape Drum traps are not vented, and they are no longer approved
for new plumbing installations.
I How to Clear a clogged Drum Trap

2 3
Place rags or towels around the Remove the trap cover, using an Use a hand auger (pages 372 to 373)
opening of the drum trap to absorb adjustable wrench. Work carefully: older to clear each drain line. Then wrap the
wate r that may be backed up in drum traps may be made of lead, which threads of the cover with Teflon tape
the lines. gets brittle with age. If cover does not and install. Flush all drains with hot
unscrew easily, apply penetrating oil to water for five minutes.
lubricate the th reads.
378 • T HE CO I\ I PLETE PHOTO GU ID E TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

I Clearing Clogged Floor Drains
W he n wate r backs up onto a basement floor, there
is a clog in e ith er th e floor dra in line, dra in trap,
or the sewe r service lin e. C logs in the drain lin e or
trap may be cleared with a hand auger or a blow bag.
To c lea r a sewe r service lin e, see pages 382 to 385 .
Blow bags a re espec iall y useful for clearing clogs
in floor drain lin es. A blow bag attache s to a ga rden
hose and is inserted directly into the floor drain lin e.
T he bag fi ll s with wate r a nd then re leases a powerfu l
spurt that di slodges clogs.
Adju stable wre nch

Screwdriver
Hand a uger Clear clogged floor drains using a hand auger. Remove the
Blow bag drain cover, then use a wrench to unscrew the cleanout plug
Garden h ose in the drain bowl. Push the auger cable through the cleanout
opening directly into the drain line.
I How to Use a Blow Bag to Clear a Floor Drain

2 , Cleanollt opening "
Cleanout plug
ｾ＠
Attach blow bag to garden hose, then attach hose to a Remove drain cover and cleanout plug. Insert the blow
hose bib or utility faucet bag completely into the clean out opening and turn on water.
Allow several minutes for the blow bag to work properly.

I Clearing Clogs in Branch & Main Drain Lines
f using a plunger or a hand auger does not c lear a
I clog in a fixture dra in lin e, it means that the blockage
may be in a branch lin e, the main waste-ve nt stack, or
surface, but it can be identified by its two openings.
Use a hand a uger to clean a house trap.
If the auger meets solid resistance in the sewer lin e,
the sewer service lin e. retrieve the cable and inspect the bit. Fine, hair-like
First, use an auger to c lear the branch drain line roots on the bit indicate the lin e is c logged with tree
closest to any stopped-up fixtures. Branch drain lines roots. Dirt on the bit indi cates a collapsed lin e.
may be serviced through the cleanout fittings located Use a power auger to clear sewer service lines that
at the e nd of the branch. Because waste water may be are c logged with tree roots. Power augers (page 382)
backed up in the drain lines, always open a c leanout with are availab le at rental centers. However, a power auger
caution. Place a bucket and rags under the opening to is a large, heavy piece of equipment. Before renting,
catc h waste water. Never position yourself directly under cons id er the cost of rental and the level of your
a cleanout opening wh ile unscrewing the plug or cover. do-it-yourself ski ll s versus the price of a professional
If using an auger on the branch lin e does not so lve sewer cleaning serv ice. If you rent a power auger, ask
the problem, then the c log may be located in a main the rental dea le r for comp lete instructions on how to
waste-vent stack. To c lear the stack, run an auger operate the equ ipm ent.
cab le down through the roof vent. Make sure that the Always consult a professional sewer cleaning
cable of your auger is lon g enough to reach down the serv ice if you suspect a collapsed line.
entire length of the stack. If it is not, you may want
to rent or borrow another auger. Always use extreme
caution when working on a ladder or on a roof.
If no clog is present in the main stack, the problem Tools & Materials ｾ＠
may be located in the sewer service line. Locate the
main cleanout, usually a Y-s haped fitting at the bottom Adjustab le wrench Rags
of the main waste-vent stack. Remove the plug and or pipe wrench Penetrating oil
push the cab le of a hand auger into the opening. Hand auger Cleanout plug
Some sewer service lin es in older h omes have Cold ch isel (if needed )
a house trap. The house trap is a U-shaped fitting Ball-peen hammer Pipe joint compo und
located at the point where the sewer lin e exits the Bucket
house. Most of the fitting wi ll be beneath the floor
Main waste-vent stack ＭＭＷＭＭＴＮｾ＠ Fixture drain line
\
Cleanout
(
- ; / fitting &: plugs
Branch drain line
Sanitary Y-fitting
Clear a branch drain line by locating the cleanout fitting at the end of the line. Place a bucket underneath the opening to catch
waste water, then slowly unscrew the cleanout plug with an adjustable wrench. Clear clogs in the branch drain line with a hand
auger (pages 372 to 373).

Clear the main waste and vent stack Clear the house trap in a sewer service line using a hand auger Slowly remove
by running the cable of a hand auger only the plug on the "street side" of the trap. If water seeps out the opening as the
down through the roof vent. Always use plug is removed, the clog is in the sewer line beyond the trap. If no water seeps
extreme caution while working on a out, auger the trap. If no clog is present in the trap, replace the street-side plug and
ladder or roof. remove the house-side plug. Use the auger to clear clogs located between the house
trap and main stack.
I How to Remove & Replace a Main Drain Cleanout Plug
Clean out plug
Remove the clean out plug, using a large wrench. If plug does Remove stubborn plugs by placing the cutting edge of chisel
not turn out, apply penetrating oil around edge of plug, wait 10 on edge of plug. Strike chisel with a ball-peen hammer to move
minutes, and try again. Place rags and a bucket under fitting plug counterclockwise. If plug does not turn out, break it into
opening to catch any water that rnay be backed up in the line. pieces with the chisel and hammer. Remove all broken pieces.
Cleanout
fitting
Replace old plug with new plastic plug. Apply pipe joint Alternate: Replace old plug with an expandable rubber plug.
compound to the threads of the replacement plug and screw A wing nut squeezes the rubber core between two metal
into cleanout fitting. plates. The rubber bulges slightly to create a watertight seal.

I Advanced Clog Clearing
W he n plungers a nd ha nd augers meet a c log
th ey ca n't di s lodge, yo u have one more DIY
option before yo u call a profess ional dra in clea ning
c lea nouts in the drainline, so they do not need to
be forced through the dra in trap . Never run a powe r
auger through a toil et- it could scratc h the porcelain
service. Most re nta l centers stock power a uge rs or eve n break the fixture.
in seve ra l sizes . These e lectri c tools work in much
th e sa me ma nner as a hand auger, but with mu c h
more tenacity. With spear tool s, c uttin g tools, and Tools & Materials ｾ＠
sprin g tools, they ca n push or c ut through a c log,
01' snag an object an d drag it out from your floor or Auger with 50-ft. Tool wre nch
bra nch dra inlin e. Y," cable Heavy leathe r gloves
Always read the instru ction s ca refully and be sure Eye protect ion Pe netrating oil
to get through operating instructions at the re ntal Gro und ed Teflon tape
ce nter. If used improperly, power augers can ca use exte nsion co rd Sc rewdriver
major dam age to your plumbing syste m. They are C hanne l-type plie rs
designed to be inserted beyond the trap or through
- - ...
-. -.. - ..
... ............
...
.ＭｾＨ＠ .. -_. - _ .. .
When the going gets tough , the tough rent power tools. The medium duty auger shown here is perfect for augering the
2-inch-diameter floor drain lines and branch drainlines.

Floor drains can develop extremely robust clogs, especially if the drain cover is absent. A power auger that's inserted
through the cleanout opening can travel 50 feet or more to hunt down and remove stubborn clogs. These rental tools come in
several sizes and may also be used to clear tub/shower drainlines, branch drainlines and even a 3- to 4-inch diameter soil stack or
house drain.
Tool Tip ｾ＠
Power augers can be fitted with three different head

styles. The spring tool is affixed to the cable end to snag
and retrieve an obstruction. The spear tool is used to
penetrate a clog and puncture it to create a starter hole
for the cutting tool, which can cut apart very resistant
clogs (often tree roots).
Spear tool
Cutter tool

I How to Power-auger a Floor Drain
1 The Lowdown on the
ｌｯｷｄｮｾ＠
If you choose to auger a larger line, you may find

yourself opening a cleanout with 10 or 20 vertical
feet of waste water be hind it. Be careful. The cap
may burst open when it's loose enough, spewing
noxious waste water uncontrollablyl Here are
some precautions:
Whenever possible, remove a trap or clean out close
to the top of the backed -up water level. Run yo ur
auger through this. Make sure the auger and its
electric connections will not get wet should waste
water spew forcefully from the clean out opening.
Remove the cover from the floor drain using a Use the spear tool on the power auger first,
screwdriver. On one wall of the drain bowl you'll see a cleanout to let the water drain out through a smaller hole
plug. Remove the plug from the drain bowl with your largest before widen ing it with a larger cutting tool. If you
channel-type pliers. This cleanout allows you to bypass the
are augering through a 3- or 4-inch clean out. use
trap. If it's stuck, apply penetrating oil to the threads and let it
sit a half an hour before trying to free it again. If the wrench three bits: the spear, a small cutter, and then a
won't free it, rent a large pipe wrench. You can also auger larger cutter.
through the trap if you have to.
Rent an electric drum auger with at least 50 feet of '/," Wear close-fitting clothing and contain long hair. Place the
cable. The rental company should provide a properly sized, power auger machine in a dry location within three feet of the
grounded extension cord, heavy leather gloves, and eye drain opening. Plug the tool into a grounded, GFCI circuit. Put
protection . The auger should come with a spear tool, cutter on eye protection and gloves; you will be holding a rotating
tool, and possibly a spring-tool suitable for a 2" drainline. metal cable and may be exposed to dangerous bacteria and
Attach the spearhead first (with the machine unplugged). caustic drain-cleaning chemicals. Position the footswitch
where it is easy to actuate; visualize using the machine without
having to overreach the rotating drum or exposed belts. Make
sure the FOR/REV switch is in the Forward position (inset
photo). Hand feed the cleaning tool and some cable into the
drain or cleanout before turning the machine on.

"
ｾＮＬ＠ ..
.,
• I ! '.
" • .. .' t
Ｇｾ＠ＧｾＩＧ＠
t . . . . : - ....
,' . . ＺｾＮ＠
•
"
•
- .: . , .
Stationary power augers (as opposed to pistol,grip types) With both gloved hands on the cable, depress the foot
are controlled by a foot pedal called an actuator so you can actuator to start the machine. Gradually push the rotating
turn the power on and off hands,free. cable into the drain opening. If the rotation slows or you
cannot feed more cable into the drain, pull back on the cable
before pushing it forward again. Don't force it The cable needs
to be rotating whenever the motor is running or it can kink
and buckle, destroying the cable (although a clutch on the
drum should prevent this). If the cleaning tool becomes stuck,
turn the FOR/REV switch to Reverse and back the tool off the
obstruction before switching back to Forward again.
Gradually work through the clog by pulling back on the After clearing the drain pipe, run the auger through the
cable whenever the machine starts to bog down and pushing it trap. Finish cleaning the auger Wrap Teflon tape clockwise onto
forward again when it gains new momentum. Again, never let the plug threads and replace the plug. Run hot water through a
the cable stop turning when the motor is running. When you hose from the laundry sink or use a bucket to flush remaining
have broken through the clog (or if you are using the spring debris through the trap and down the line.
head and believe you have snagged an object) withdraw the
cable from the line. Manually pull the cable from the drain
line while continuing to run the drum Forward. If it's practical,
have a helper hose off the cable as its withdrawn and recoiled .
When the clean ing tool is close to the drain opening, release
the foot actuator and let the cable come to a stop before
feeding the remaining cable into the drum by hand.

I Fixing a Water Heater
S tanda rd tank wa te r heate rs are des igned so
that re pa irs are simpl e. All wa te r heate rs have
co nve ni e nt access pa ne ls th at make it easy to re pl ace
Flexible
water
F.-- - - - - connection
wo rn -o ut parts. \l\Th e n bu yin g new water hea ter parts,
ma ke sure th e re place me nts matc h the spec ifi ca tions
of yo ur water h ea ter. Most wa te r heate rs have a
nam e plate (page 392) that li sts the info rmation water
needed , in cl uding th e press ure rat ing of the tank outlet
and the vo ltage an d wattage rat in gs of the e lec tri c
heat in g e le me nts.
Many wa ter hea ter problems can be avo id ed w ith Glass- relief
ro utin e yearly mainte na nce. Flu sh the wate r heater lined valve
tank
an d test th e press ure -re li ef va lve once a yea r. Set th e
thermostat at a lowe r water te mp erature to preve nt
hea t da mage to the tank. (Note: Water temperature
Outer
may affect the effici ency of automatic di shwashers. jacket
ｃｨ･｣ｬｾ＠ manufacturer's directions for recommended water
temperature.) V\l ater h ea ters last abo ut 10 yea rs on
average, but with regular ma in tenance, a wate r heater
can las t 20 years or more. Reset
Do not insta ll an in sulating jacke t aro und a gas button
wate r heate r. In sulation ca n block ai r supply a nd
preve nt the wate r hea ter from ve ntil ating prope rl y.
Many wa ter heater ma nufacture rs pro hibit th e use Gas
cock
of insu lating jac ke ts. To save e ne rgy, insu late the hot
wa te r pipes in stead , using tube in sul at ion sleeves
ava il ab le at hom e improvement ce nters. Control
Th e pressure-reli ef va lve is an important safety box
dev ice that s hou ld be c hec ked a t least once eac h
year a nd rep laced , if needed. When rep lac ing th e
pressure- re li ef valve, shut off th e wate r a nd drain Pilot
gas
severa l ga ll ons of water fro m th e ta nk . tube
Rep lac ing a water hea te r is not a difficu lt project,
but c hec k w ith loca l codes for in sta ll at ion restrict ions . Burner
Your co mmunity may reguire that a li censed plumber gas
tube
make gas hookup s, for example, or th at e lec tri ca l
water hea te rs be co nn ec ted by a n e lec tri c ia n.
Howa gas water heater works: Hot water leaves tank
through the hot water outlet (1) as fresh, cold water enters
the water heater through the dip tube (2). As the water
temperature drops, the thermostat (3) opens the gas valve,
and the gas burner (4) is lighted by pilot flame. Exhaust
gases are vented through flue (5). When water temperature
reaches preset temperature, the thermostat closes gas valve,
extinguishing burner. The thermocouple protects against gas
leaks by automatical ly shutting off gas if pilot flame goes out.
Anode rod protects tank lining from rust by attracti ng corrosive
elements in the water. Pressure-relief valve guards against
ruptures caused by steam buildup in tank.
386 • T H E CO I\ IP LETE PHOTO GU I DE TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

Problems Repairs
No hot water, or not enough hot water. 1. Gas heater: Make sure gas is on, then relight pilot flame (page 389).
Electric heater: Make sure power is on, then reset thermostat (page 390).
2. Flush water heater to remove sediment in tonk (photo, below).
3. Insulate hot water pipes to reduce heat loss.
4. Gas heater: Clean gas burner & replace thermocouple (pages 388 to 389).
Electric heater: Replace heating element or thermostat (pages 390 to 391).
5. Raise temperature setting of thermostat.
Pressure·relief va lve leaks. 1. Lower the temperature setting (photo, below).
2. Install a new pressure-relief valve (page 394, steps 10 to 11 ).
3. Install a water hammer arrester (page 407).
Pilot flame will not stay lighted. Clean gas burner & replace the thermocouple (pages 388 to 389).
Water heater leaks around bose of tonk. Replace the water heater immediately (pages 392 to 399).
Tips for Maintaining a Water Heater ｾ＠
Flush the water heater once a year by draining Lower the temperature setting on thermostat to
several gallons of water from the tank. Flushing removes 120 F. Lower temperature setting reduces damage to
0
sediment buildup that causes corrosion and reduces tank caused by overheating and also reduces energy use.
heating efficiency.

I Fixing a Gas Water Heater
I f a gas wate r heate r does not hea t wa te r, first re move
th e oute r a nd inne r access pa ne ls a nd ma ke sure
th e pilot is lighted. To relight a pilot, see step s 20 to
a nnu a ll y to improve e ne rgy e ffi c ie ncy a nd exte nd t he
life of th e wa te r h ea te r.
A gas wate r h eate r mu st be well ve ntila ted. If you
23, page 397 . Durin g ope ra tion , th e o ute r a nd inn e r smell smo ke or fum es corning from a wa te r heate r,
access pa ne ls mu st be in pl ace . Ope rating th e wate r shu t off t he wate r heate r a nd ma ke sure t he ex ha ust
hea te r with o ut the access pa ne ls may allow a ir drafts du ct is not clogged with soot. A ru sted du c t mu st
to blowo ut th e pilot Aa me. be replaced.
If t he pil ot w ill not li ght, it is proba bl y beca use Re me mbe r to shu t off th e gas before
th e th e rm oco uple is worn out. T he th e rmoco upl e is a beginnin g work.
safety device des igned to shut off the gas a utom a ti call y
if th e pil ot Aa me goes out. T he the rm ocoupl e is a thin
coppe r wire tha t run s from th e co ntrol box to th e gas
burn e r. New th e rmoco upl es a re in expe ns ive a nd ca n Tools & Materials ｾ＠
be in stall ed in a few minutes .
If t he gas burn e r does not li ght, eve n th o ugh Adju sta bl e wre nc h T hin wires
th e pil ot Aa me is wo rkin g, o r if t he gas burn s with a Vac uum c lea ne r Re pl ace me nt
yellow, smoky Aa me, th e burn e r a nd the pilo t gas tube Needl e nose pli e rs th e rmocoupl e
sh ould be clea ned. C lea n th e burn e r a nd gas tube
I How to Clean a Gas Burner & Replace a Thermocouple

1 Reset
button
2 Control
box
Pilot
gas
Thermocouple tube
Burner
gas
tube - - - - ---"
Shut off gas by turning the gas cock on top of the control box Disconnect the pilot gas tube, the burne r gas tube, and the
to the OFF position. Wait 10 minutes for gas to dissipate. thermocouple from the bottom of the contro l box, using an
adjustable wrench.
3 Inner
4 Burner
unit
Remove the outer and inner access panels cove ring the Pull down slightly on the pilot gas tube, the burne r gas
burner chambe r. tube, and the rmocoup le wire to free them from the contro l
box. Tilt the burner unit slightly and remove it from the
burner chamber.

Unscrew burner from burner gas tube Clean the pilot gas tube with a piece Pull the old thermocouple from
nipple. Clean small opening in nipple, of wire. Vacuum out any loose particles. bracket. Install new thermocouple by
using a piece of thin wire. Vacuum out Screw burner onto gas tube nipple. pushing the tip into the bracket until it
burner jets and the burner chamber. snaps into place.
Insert the burner unit into the Reconnect the gas tubes and the Make sure pilot flame wraps around
chamber. Flat tab at end of burner thermocouple to the control box. Turn tip of thermocouple. If needed, adjust
should fit into slotted opening in on the gas and test for leaks (page 396, thermocouple with needlenose pliers
mounting bracket at the bottom of step 19) Light the pilot (page 397, steps until tip is in flame. Replace the inner
the chamber. 20 to 23). and outer access panels.

I Fixing an Electric Water Heater
T he most common proble m with an e lec tric
wa te r h ea ter is a burned-out h eating ele me nt.
To determin e which element has fa il ed , turn on a
hot water faucet a nd test the temperature. If the Sc rewdri ver

water heate r produ ces water that is wa rm , but not Gloves
hot, rep lace th e top heat ing eleme nt. If th e heater Neo n c ircuit tester
produces a small amount of very hot wa ter, fo ll owed C hanne l-type pli e rs
by co ld wate r, re pl ace the bottom heatin g e lem e nt. Masking tape
If rep lac in g the heat ing e le me nt does not so lve Replaceme nt heating ele me nt or thermostat
th e problem, th en rep lace th e the rmostat, found und er Rep laceme nt gas ket
co nve ni e nt access pa ne ls on th e sid e of th e h ea te r. Pipe joint compound
Remember to turn off th e powe r a nd tes t for
curre nt before tou c hing wires (page 398, step 4).
I How to Replace an Electric Thermostat

1
--ＮｾＭ
Turn off power at main service panel. Remove access panel Disconnect thermostat wires, and label connections with
on side of heater, and test for current (page 398, step 4) masking tape. Pull old thermostat out of mounting clips Snap
new thermostat into place, and reconnect wires.
Press thermostat reset button, then
3 use a screwdriver to set thermostat to

desired temperature. Replace insulation
and access panel. Turn on power.
390 • THE COI\ IPLETE PHOTO GU IDE TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

I How to Replace an Electric Heating Element
1 2
Heating
element
Remove access panel on side of Wearing protective gloves, carefully Unscrew the heating element with
water heater. Shut off power to water move insulation aside. Caution: Test channel-type pliers. Remove old gasket
heater (page 390, step 1) Close the for current (page 398, step 4), then from around water heater opening.
shutoff valves, then drain tank (page disconnect wires on heating element. Coat both sides of new gasket with pipe
393, step 3). Remove protective collar. joint compound.
4 5
Protective
collar
OuiJ(110
----- ...... Ｍｾ｜＠
Slide new gasket over heating Replace protective collar, and Use a screwdriver to set thermostat
element, and screw element into reconnect all wires. Turn on hot water to desired temperature. Press
the tank. Tighten element with faucets throughout house, then turn on thermostat reset buttons. Fold insulation
channel-type pliers. water heater shutoff valves. When tap over thermostat, and replace the access
water runs steadily, close faucets. panel. Turn on power.

I Replacing a Water Heater
water heater that leaks shou ld be replaced
A immediately to prevent expens ive water
damage. Leaks occur because the inner tank has
rusted th rough.
When replacing an e lectric water heater, make
sure the vo ltage of the new model is the same as
the old heater. When replacing a gas water heater,
maintain a c learance of 6" or more around the unit
for venti lation. Water heaters are availab le with tank
sizes ranging from 30 to 65 ga llons. A 40- or 50-gallon
heater shou ld be large enough for a family of four.
Energy-efficient water heaters have polyurethane
foam insulation and usually carry an extended
warranty. These models are more expensive, but over
the life of the water heater they cost less to own
and operate.
The pressure-relief valve usually must be
purchased separately. Make sure the new valve
matches the working pressure rating of the tank.
Pipe wrenches Small wire brush #4 gauge 'Is" Teflon tape

Hacksaw Propane torch sheetmetal screws Flex ibl e
or tubing cutter Adjustable wrench Pressure-relief va lve water connectors
Screwdriver Circu it tester Threaded male y," copper pipe
Hammer (electric heaters) pipe adapters Pipe joint compound
App li ance dolly Bucket Solder Sponge
Level Wood shims Two heat-saver nipples Masking tape
Nameplate on side of water heater

OATA PLAT!:
MANUFACTURED FOR :
CRAFTMASTER I.tATER HEATER COMPANY
lists tank capacity, insulation R-value, and
1St....,..PU · CLEVELANQ. pH10 44128
ｾＢｬｉｓＧ＠ • working pressure (pounds per square
inch). More efficient water heaters have
an insulation R-value of 7 or higher.
Nameplate for an electric water heater
includes the voltage and the wattage
capacity of the heating elements and
thermostats. Water heaters also have a
yellow energy guide label (photo, top)
that lists typical yearly operating costs.
Estimates are based on national averages.
Energy costs in your area may vary.

I How to Replace a Gas water Heater
Shut off the gas by turning the handle Disconnect gas line at the union Drain water from the water heater
of the in-line valve so it is perpendicular fitting or at the flare fitting below shutoff tank by opening the hose bib on the
to gas line. Wait 10 minutes for gas to valve, using pipe wrenches. Disassemble side of the tank. Drain the water into
dissipate. Shut off the water supply at and save the gas pipes and fittings. buckets, or attach a hose and empty the
the shutoff valves. tank into a floor drain.
Disconnect the hot and cold water pipes above the water Disconnect the exhaust duct by removing the sheetmetal
heater. If pipes are soldered copper, use a hacksaw or tubing screws. Remove the old water heater with an appliance dolly.
cutter to cut through water pipes just below shutoff valves.
cuts must be straight.
(continued)

Position new heater so that control box is close to gas line, Level the water heater by placing wood shims under
and access panel for burner chamber is not obstructed. the legs.
10
Teflon tape
Position flue hat so legs fit into slots Attach the flue hat to the exhaust wrap threads of new pressure-relief
on water heater, then slip exhaust duct duct with #4 gauge %" sheetmetal valve with Teflon tape, and screw valve
over flue hat. Make sure horizontal screws driven every 4". into tank opening with a pipe wrench.
duct slopes upward y." per ft. so fumes
cannot back up into house.

11
male
adapter
Drain - -r
pipe
Attach a copper or CPVC drain pipe Solder threaded male adapters wrap Teflon tape around the
to the pressure-relief valve, using to the water pipes. Let pipes cool, threads of two heat-saver nipples.
threaded male adapter. Pipe should then wrap Teflon tape around threads The nipples are color-coded, and have
reach to within 3" of floor. of adapters. water-direction arrows to ensure
proper installation.
Attach blue-coded nipple fitting to cold water inlet and Connect the water lines to the heat-saver nipples
red-coded fitting to hot water outlet, using a pipe wrench. On with flexible water connectors. Tighten fittings with an
cold water nipple, water direction arrow should face down; on adjustable wrench.
hot water nipple, arrow should face up.
(continued)

1
Nipple A
T-fitting
Nipple
Drip
leg
Cap
Test-fit gas pipes and fittings from old water heater (step Clean pipe threads with a small wire brush, and coat the
2). One or two new black-iron nipples (A, B) may by necessary threads with pipe joint compound. Assemble gas line in the
if new water heater is taller or shorter than old heater. Use following order: control box nipple (1), Hitting (2), vertical
black iron, not galvanized iron, for gas lines. Capped nipple nipple (3), union fitting (4), vertical nipple (5), cap (6).
is called a drip leg. The drip leg protects the gas burner by
catching dirt particles.
Flexible
copper
gas line
nut
Alternate: If gas line is made of flexible open the hot water faucets open the in-line valve on the gas line
copper, use a flare fitting to connect the throughout house, then open the water (step 1). Test for leaks by dabbing soapy
gas line to the water heater. heater inlet and outlet shutoff valves. water on each joint. Leaking gas will
When water runs steadily from faucets, cause water to bubble. Tighten leaking
close faucets. joints with a pipe wrench .

Inner
access
panel
Turn the gas cock on top of control box to the PILOT Remove the outer and inner access panels covering the
position. Set the temperature control on front of box to burner chamber.
desired temperature.
Light a match and hold flame next to the end of the pilot gas While holding match next to end of pilot gas tube, press
tube inside the burner chamber. Be sure to keep your face the reset button on top of control box. When pilot flame lights,
away from the opening. continue to hold reset button for one minute. Turn gas cock to
ON position, and replace the inner and outer access panels.

I How to Replace a 220/240-volt Electric water Heater
2 3 •
Heating
Turn off power to water heater Remove one of the heating element wearing protective gloves, fold back
by switching off circuit breaker (or access panels on the side of the the insulation to expose the thermostat.
removing fuse) at main service panel. water heater. Caution: Do not touch bare wires until
Drain water heater and disconnect they have been tested for current.
water pipes (page 393, steps 3 and 4).
- - - - - - - -,
4 5
ＮＬｾ＠
Cable
clamp
Coverplate
Test for current by touching probes of neon circuit tester to Remove coverplate on electrical box, found at side or top
top pair of terminal screws on the thermostat. If tester lights, of water heater. Disconnect all wires, and label with masking
wires are not safe to work on; turn off main power switch and tape for reference. Loosen cable clamp. Remove wires by
retest for current. pulling them through clamp. Remove old heater, then position
new heater.

Connect water pipes and Remove the electrical box Connect the circuit wires to
pressure-relief valve, following coverplate on new water heater. Thread the water heater wires, using
directions for gas water heaters (pages the circuit wires through the clamp. wire connectors.
395 to 396, steps 10 to 15). Open hot Thread circuit wires through the cable
water faucets throughout the house, opening on the water heater, and attach
and turn on water. When water runs clamp to water heater.
steadily, turn off faucets.
Ground
screw wire
Attach bare copper or green Remove access panels on side of Press reset button on thermostats.
ground wire to ground screw water heater (steps 2 to 3), and use Replace the insulation and access
Replace coverplate. a screwdriver to set thermostats to panels Turn on power
desired water temperature.

I Maintaining a Water Softener
wate r softe ne r lowers the co nte nt of "ha rd " occas ion a ll y, or add a wate r filt e r to he lp reduce the
A min erals in wa ter- magnes ium a nd calcium-
a nd re places th e m with sodium or potassium to help
iron flo w into th e wa te r softe ner.
Repa ir proble ms ge nerally ari se in th e brine lin e
prolon g the life of pipes a nd appliances. or the co ntrol unit. In spect the brine line every two
A water softe ne r has just a few mec ha ni ca l yea rs for buildup of sed im ent from the wate r s upply or
parts- va lves to co ntrol wa ter flo w in a nd out of th e fore ign particles in the sa lt or potassium. If th e control
tank, a nd a tim e r, which regulates th e rechargin g of unit need s serv icin g, remove it a nd bring it to your
the min e ral tank by the brine tank. nearest deale r. Fo llow the re mova l in structions in the
If your water becomes ha l'd , the brine tan k may owne r's manu a l for yo ur particular unit.
just need additional salt or potassium pellets. Because
hou seh old de mand s vary, ch eck yo ur suppl y every
week to de te rmin e how often th e sa lt or potassium
supply should be re ple ni shed (typ ic ally every coupl e Tools & Materials ｾ＠
of month s) .
An imprope rly set timer ca n ca use ha rd water. Needl e nose pliers
Adjust it to run more frequently to e nsu re a co nstant Sc rewd ri ve r
supply of soft wa te r. Iron co nte nt also ca uses hard Kitchen bas ter or funn e l
wa te r. Measure th e iro n co nte nt of yo ur wa ter supply
Control
li llf-t-- Control valve
unit
Timer
Resin Brine
tank tank
Water
inlet
Drain
Brine well
A water softener includes two tanks: a resin tank (left) and a brine tank (right). Inside the brine tank is the brine well and
float (center).

I How to Inspect & Clean Brine Connections
unplug softener. Divert the water supply by turning the Remove particles or residue from the line, using a small
bypass valve, or closing the inlet valve and turning on the screwdriver. Flush line with warm water-a funnel or kitchen
nearest faucet. Turn timer dial to backwash. With a needlenose baster is useful for this task-then reattach the brine line.
pliers, remove the compression nut connecting the brine line
to the control unit. Inspect line for obstructions.
Inspect the brine injector. Do not reconnect power or make Pull off the injector filter screen covering the injector.
any changes to the supply or control dial. To gain access to Wash it with soap and water. Blow into injector or wipe it out
the brine injector, which is often directly below the brine line with a soft cloth to clean . Do not use a sharp object that might
connection, use a screwdriver to remove the cover. Unscrew scratch the metal and damage the injector. Reattach screen
injector from housing. and screw injector back into place. Attach the cover. Return
bypass valve to original position, or open inlet valve and turn
off faucet. Reset the control dial and plug in softener.

I Maintaining Septic Systems
bout 15 percent of hom es in the U.S. are not septic system must have a vent pipe for the gases to
A h ooked up to a municipal sewer service. In these
homes, the h ousehold waste is usuall y ma naged by a
escape at the mof of the house. Without this vent,
the pressure in the tank would quickly increase to
pl-ivate septic system. dangerous leve ls.
Septic systems consist of an undergmund holding Undecomposed so lids accumu late in the bottom
tank an d a drainage field. Sewage fmm the house is of the tank, forming a growing layer of sludge. Over
directed thmugh the D\W system a nd into the septic time, the tank reaches its capacity and the sludge
tank. Once in the tank, the solid wastes separate fmm must be pumped out. Most septic tanks need to be
the liquid and settl e to the bottom, where they're pumped out everyone to three years, depending on
decomposed by micmorganisms. tank capacity and the number of people wh o live in
Th e breakdown of the wastes creates a liquid the h ome .
efAuent. In a conventional sys tem, the effluent flows When neglected septic tanks become overfilled,
from the tank into a sealed junction box. The juncti on the so lid wastes do not separate from the liquid
box distributes the efflu ent to a drainage field- several and in stead pass through the tank and into the
perforated pipes lying on a bed of grave l or other drainage field. There they c log the loose-fi ll
loose-fi ll material. Seep in g through ho les in the pipes, material, barring the passage of effluent. When this
the effluent is purified as it filters through layers of so il happens, the field mu st be dug up and the 100se-fi lJ
and mck on its return to the water table. material replaced.
In a mound syste m, the drainage field is built in Septic systems rely on a natural pmcess of
an e levated mound. A second tank, ca ll ed a lift station, decomposition and work best when a ll owed to
contains a pump whi ch pumps the liquid efAuent function as designed. Don't try to help the process
into the mounded drainage field. Mound systems are along by adding yeasts or other biological add itives.
necessary where so il types or high water tables make a Regular tank ma inte nan ce and careful waste
conventiona l drainage field unsuitable. disposal should keep you r septic system hea lth y for
Th e storage and breakdown of sewage in the 20 years, or more. However, if the system has been
septic tank produces methane gas. Like a DWV neglected, it's possible yo u'll need to have the ent ire
system in a house with municipal sewer service, a drainage fi eld replaced.
A conventional septic system (top)

relies on gravity to move liquid from the
tank to the drainage field . A mound system
(bottom) uses a pump to move liquids to
an elevated drainage field
402 • THE CO I\ IPLETE PHOTO GU ID E TO HOI\IE HEPAIH

Maintaining Your Septic System ｾ＠
Have your tonk inspected and emptied regularly. Anegle(ted tonk will cause your system to foil, resulting in sewage bo(kup and posing a serious risk to
your family's health. Experts recommend pumping a septic tonk everyone to two years.
Avoid using (hemi(ols. Harsh (hemicols and ontibo(teriol agents kill the bo(terio your system depends on.
Keep these (hemi(ols out of your toilets and house drains:
Drain cleaner
Point and point thinner
Chemical cleaners
Chlorine - including toilet bowl flush-cleaners
Antibo(teriol soft-soaps
limit kitchen wastes. Grease and fat from food hinder the septic process by (ooting drain pipes, interfering with bo(teriol
breakdown in the tonk, and clogging the loose-fill material in the drain field. Food disposers overload your
system with solid food particles, sometimes doubling the rate of sludge o((Umulotion in the tonk. Throw
cooking grease and food scraps in the garbage or compost heap.
limit water inflow. Ex(ess water speeds up the flowthrough the septic system. Repair leaky plumbing fixtures as soon as
possible. The natural bo(terio can't do its job, allowing too many solids to pass into the drain field. Route
roof drains out of the house drain system. Don't drain a swimming pool or hot tub into the house drain.
Never use odditives. Biological odditives designed to stimulate bo(teriol growth often harm more than they help. These
additives agitate the onoerobi( bo(terio in the septic tonk, and the increased o(tivity forces undissolved
solids into the drain field.
I Troubleshooting Your Septic System

Once problems a ri se with in a septic system, there isn't removal. Servicing a septic system isn't something you
much a h omeowner can do, but being able to id entify should tty to do yourself.
signs of trouble may prolong the life of you r system Septic tanks produce explosive methane gas and may
and wi ll probably save you some money. contain deadly viruses. Contact a li censed sewer service
If your drains are working s low ly, or not draining to have you r sept ic system inspected and selviced.
at a ll , th ere may be a c log in the main house drain,
or the septic system may be backed up. Check
for c logs first. Use a motorized auger (photo,
right ) to c lear the main drain. Never use chem ica l
drain cleaners.
If the house drain isn't clogged, the problem may
be a c logged drain field , an absence of bacteria in the
system, or a full septic tank.
In addition to slow drainage, co mm on signs of
trouble include the presence of dark-colored water on
the surface of the drain field and a sewage odor in or
aro und the home.
Any of these symptoms may indicate a serious
problem. I-Iuman sewage is considered a hazardous
waste, and there are strict regulations governing its

I Fixing Burst or Frozen Pipes
W hen a pipe bursts, immediately turn off the
water at the main sh utoff valve. Make temporary
repairs with a sleeve clamp repair kit (page opposite ).
A burst pipe is usually caused by freezing water.
Prevent freezes by insulating pipes that run in crawl
spaces or other unheated areas.
Pipes that freeze, but do not burst, will block
water flow to faucets or appliances. Frozen pipes are
easi ly thawed, but determining the exact location of
the blockage may be difficult. Leave blocked faucets
or valves turned on. Trace supp ly pipes that lead to
blocked faucet or valve, and look for places where the
line runs close to exterior wa lls or unheated areas.
Thaw pipes with a heat gun or hair dryer (below).
Old fittings or corroded pipe also may leak or
rupture. Fix old pipes acco rding to the guidel ines
described on pages 286 to 315.
Heat gun Screwdriver

or hair dryer Pipe insulation
G loves Sleeve c lamp Begin any emergency repair by turning off water supply at
Metal file repair kit main shutoff valve. The main shutoff valve is usually located
near water meter.
I How to Repair Pipes Blocked with Ice
Thaw pipes with a heat gun or hair let pipes cool, then insulate with Alternate : Insulate pipes with
dryer. Use heat gun on low setting, sleeve-type foam insulation to prevent fiberglass strip insulation and
and keep nozzle moving to prevent freezing. Use pipe insulation in crawl waterproof wrap Wrap insulating strips
overheating pipes. spaces or other unheated areas. loosely for best protection.

I How to Temporarily Fix a Burst Pipe
3
Turn off water at main shutoff valve. Smooth rough edges of rupture with Place rubber sleeve of repair clamp
Heat pipe gently with heat gun or hair metal file. around rupture. Make sure seam of
dryer. Keep nozzle moving. Once frozen sleeve is on opposite side of pipe
area is thawed, allow pipe to drain. from ru ptu reo
Place the two metal repair clamps around rubber sleeve. Tighten screws with screwdriver. Open water supply
and watch for leaks. If repair clamp leaks, retighten screws.
Caution: Repairs made with a repair clamp kit are temporary.
Replace ruptured section of pipe as soon as possible.

I Quieting Noisy Pipes
P ipes ca n make a loud ba ngin g no ise whe n
faucets are turn ed off or whe n valves on washing
machin es (or othe r a utomati c a ppli a nces ) shut
abruptl y. T h e sudde n sto p of fl owin g wate r traps
a ir a nd c reates a shoc k wave, ca ll ed water ha mme r,
th at sla ms th ro ugh th e wate r supply sys te m. So me
pipes may kn ock aga in st wa ll stud s or joists, c reatin g
add itiona l no ise.
\,vate r ha mm e r ca n be more t ha n a n a nn oya nce .
T h e sh oc kwave ca n ca u se da mage a nd eve ntu all y
fa ilure in pip es a nd fitt ings . [f a press ure- reli e f
va lve o n yo ur wa te r h ea te r lea ks, it may not
b e a fa ulty va lve , but a press ure surge in th e
suppl y sys te m.
You ca n elimin ate wate r hamme r by in sta llin g a
sim p le device ca ll ed a wate r hamm e r a rreste r in the
suppl y lin e . Inexpe ns ive point-o f-u se arres ters are
small e nough to be in sta lled eas il y near th e noisy
valve or a ppli ance (the c lose r the bette r). Th ey ca n Tools & Materials ｾ＠
be pos iti oned ho rizo nta ll y or ve rti ca ll y o r at a n a ngle
with out any c ha nge in effec ti veness. U nlike with Utility knife Foa m rubber
old-style air cha mbe rs , wate r ca nn ot fill a wa te r Rec ip rocating saw pipe in sul ati on
ha m me r a rreste r, so they should be effect ive for the or hac ksaw Pi pe a nd fittin gs,
life of th e syste m. Propa ne torch as needed
Pipes th at ba ng aga in st studs or joists ca n be (for sweating copper)
qui eted by cushi onin g the m with pi eces of pipe Pipe wrenches
in sul ati on. Ma ke su re p ipe ha nge rs are snug a nd th at (for galva nized iron)
pipes a re we ll supported.
Install cushions made from pieces of foam rubber pipe Loose pipes may bang or rub against joist hangers.
insulation to prevent pipes from banging against wall studs creating unwanted noises. Use pieces of foam rubber pipe
or joists insulation to cushion pipes.
406 • THE COI\ IPLET E PHOTO GU IDE TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

I How to Install a water Hammer Arrester
Shut off water supply and drain Install a Hitting as close to the valve Install a short piece of pipe in the
pipes. Measure and cut out a section of as possible. branch arm of the Hitting. This short
horizontal pipe for Hitting. pipe will be used to attach a threaded
fitting (step 4).
Install a threaded fitting. Use a fitting wrap the threads of the arrester in Teflon tape. Thread the arrester onto the
recommended by the manufacturer for fitting by hand. Tighten by holding the fitting with one adjustable wrench and turning
your arrester. the arrester with the other. Do not overtighten Turn the water on and check for leaks.

I Installing a Food Disposer
F ood di spose rs a re stand ard equipm e nt in th e
mode rn horn e, a nd most of us have corne to
de pe nd on th e m to mace rate our plate leavings and
Di spose rs are hard wired to a switc h mounted in
an elec trical box in the wall above the countertop. If
your kitche n is not equipped for thi s, con sult a wirin g
c rumbs so th ey ca n exit the hou se along with waste guide or hire an elec tri cian. Th e actual elec tri cal
wa te r from th e sink dra in. If your ex isting di spose r hookup of th e applia nce is quite s impl e (you onl y have
needs re pl ac ing, yo u'll find th at the job is re lati ve ly to join two wires) but do hire an elec tri c ia n if you are
simple, es pec ia lly if you select a re place ment not comfortabl e with th e job.
a ppliance that is th e sam e mode l as th e old one. In
th at case, you ca n proba bl y re use the ex it ing mounting
asse mbly, dra in sleeve and dra in plumbing. Tools & Materials ｾ＠
Most food disposers a re class ifi ed as "continu ous
feed" beca use they ca n only ope rate whe n an O N/ Screwdri ver Dra in auge r
O FF switch n the wa ll is be ing ac ti vely held down. C ha nn e l-type plie rs Plumbe r's putty
Le t go of th e switch , and the di sposer stop s. Each Spud wre nc h Wire caps
a ppliance has a powe r ratin g be twee n Y3and I I-JP (optional) Hose cla mps
(horse power). M ore powe rful mod e ls bog down less Ha mm er Kitche n
under load and the motors last longer beca use th ey Hacksaw or dra in s uppli es
don 't have to work as hard. They are al so costli er, tubing c utte r T hreaded Y fitting
of course.
A properly functioning food disposer that's used correctly can actually help reduce clogs by ensuring that large bits of organ ic
matter don't get in to the drain system by accident.

Upper Sink
mounting sleeve
Mounting
screw
B'" ,.\", r"
ring
Backup
ring
Sound ---a.:_ mounting

insulation ring
Grinding
ring Snap ring
The disposer is attached directly to the

sink sleeve, which comes with the disposer
and replaces the standard sink strainer.
A snap ring fits into a groove around the
sleeve of the strainer body to prevent the
upper mounting ring and backup ring from
sliding down while the upper mounting
ring is tightened against the backup ring
with mounting screws. A fiber gasket seals
the connection from beneath the sink.
Impellers
Drain
chamber
Kitchen and drain tees are required

to have a baffle if the tee is connected
Shown cutaway to a dishwasher or disposer. The baffle
is intended to prevent discharge from
Motor finding its way up the drain and into the
sink. However, the baffle also reduces
the drain flow capacity by half, which
can cause the dishwasher or disposer
to back up. You cannot, by most codes,
A food disposer grinds food waste so it can be flushed away through the sink simply replace the tee with another
drain system. A quality disposer has a 'I, - horsepower, self-reversing motor that will that has no baffle. The safest way to get
not jam. Other features to look for include foam sound insulation, a cast iron grinding around the problem is to run separate
ring, and overload protection that allow the motor to be reset if it overheats. Better drains and traps to a Y fitting at the trap
food disposers have a 5-year manufacturer's warranty. arm (as shown on previous page).

I How to Install a Food Disposer
1 Tip ｾ＠
Remove the old disposer if you have one. You'll need to

disconnect the drain pipes and traps first. If your old disposer
has a special wrench for the mounting lugs, use it to loosen
the lugs. Otherwise, use a screwdriver. If you do not have a Alternate: If you are installing a disposer in a sink
helper, place a solid object directly beneath the disposer to that did not have one previously, remove the old
support it before you begin removal. IMPORTANT: Shut off sink strainer and drain tailpiece. Scrape up any old
electrical power at the main service panel before you begin plumbers putty and clean the sink thoroughly around
removal. Disconnect the wire leads, cap them and stuff them the drain opening with mineral spirits
into the electrical box.
2 3
Clear the drain lines all the way to the branch drain before Disassemble the mounting assembly and then separate
you begin the new installation. Remove the trap and trap the upper and lower mounting rings and the backup ring.
arm first. Also remove the snap ring from the sink sleeve. See photo,
previous page

5
Press the flange of the sink sleeve for your new disposer Slip the fiber gasket and then the backup ring onto the sink
into a thin coil of plumbers putty that you have laid around the sleeve, working from inside the sink base cabinet. Make sure
perimeter of the drain opening. The sleeve should be well- the backup ring is oriented the same way it was before you
seated in the coi I. disassembled the mounting assembly
6 7
Insert the upper mounting ring onto the sleeve with the Make electrical connections before you mount the
slotted ends of the screws facing away from the backup ring disposer unit on the mounting assembly. Shut OFF power at
so you can access them. Then, holding all three parts at the the service panel if you have turned it back on. Remove the
top of the sleeve, slide the snap ring onto the sleeve until it access plate from the disposer. Attach the white and black
snaps into the groove. Tighten the three mounting screws on feeder wires from the electrical box to the white and black
the upper mounting ring until the tips press firmly against the wires (respectively) inside the disposer. Twist a small wire cap
backup ring (inset photo). It is the tension created by these onto each connection and wrap it with electrical tape for good
screws that keeps the disposer steady and minimizes vibrating. measure. Also attach the green ground wire from the box to
the grounding terminal on your disposer.
(continued)

8
Knock out the plug in the disposer port IF you will be Hang the disposer from the mounting ring attached to the
connecting your dishwasher to the disposer. If you have sink sleeve. To hang it, simply lift it up and position the unit so
no dishwasher, leave the plug in. Insert a large flathead the three mounting ears are underneath the three mounting
screwdriver into the port opening and rap it with a mallet. screws and then spin the unit so all three ears fit into the
Retrieve the knock plug from inside the disposer canister. mounting assembly. Wait until after the plumbing hookups
have been made to lock the unit in place.
11
Attach the discharge tube to the disposer according to the Attach a V-fitting at the drain stubout. The V-fitting should
manufacturer's instructions. It is important to get a very good be sided to accept a drain line from the disposer and another
seal here, or the disposer will leak. Go ahead and spin the form the sink (see Sidebar, page 35 for a discussion of why you
disposer if it helps you access the discharge port. should not simply run the disposer through the P-trap from the
sink). Adjust the sink drain plumbing as needed to get from the
sink P-trap to one opening of the V-fitting

12
Install a trap arm for the disposer in the open port of Spin the disposer so the end of the discharge tube is lined
the Y fitting at the wall stubout. Then, attach a P-trap or a up over the open end of the P-trap and confirm that they will fit
combination of a tube extension and a P-trap so the low together correctly. If the discharge tube extends down too far,
end of the trap will align with the bottom of the disposer mark a line on it at the top of the P-trap and cut it there with
discharge tube. a hack saw (inset). If the tube is too short, attach an extension
with a threaded end. You may need to further shorten the
discharge tube first to create enough room for the slip joint
on the extension. Slide a slip nut and beveled compression
washer onto the discharge tube and attach the tube to the
P-trap.
15
Connect the dishwasher drain hose to the inlet port Lock the disposer into position on the mounting ring
located at the top of the disposer unit. This may require a assembly once you have tested to make sure it is functioning
dishwasher hookup kit. correctly and without leaks. Lock it by turning one of the
mounting lugs with a screwdriver until it makes contact with
the locking notch .

I Maintaining a Dishwasher
D ishwashers are durable, low-ma intenance
appli ances. The few problems that do occur can
be so lved relatively easil y. Replace a defective door
lin es that rest against the dishwasher to reduce
excessive noise levels.
Clogged water lin es can present more
gasket to eliminate leaks. If the gasket appears to be serious problems. A clogged screen at" defective
in good cond ition , adjust the door catch: loosen the so leno id can keep the dishwasher from filling
retaining screws on the door catch, reposition it, and correctly. You can c lean the inlet va lve, which may
tighten the screws. so lve the problem, but solenoid repair requires
Replace a damaged or kinked drain hose to allow professional attent io n.
the unit to drain properly. Relocate water or waste
For maximum security, replace your water supply lines with burst-proof braided supply tubes.

I How to Disconnect I How to Replace
a Drain Hose a Door Gasket
Turn off power and water supply, remove the lower panel Inspect the gasket around the door. If it is cracked or
of the unit (held in place by clips or screws). Place a baking damaged, replace it with a new one. Disconnect the electrical
pan or bowl under the pump to catch any water trapped in the power at the main service panel. Pullout the bottom dish rack.
drain hose. Loosen the hose clamp with pliers or a screwdriver. Remove the old gasket, using a screwdriver to pry up the tabs
Remove hose from pump. Detach the other end of the hose or loosen the retaining screws that hold it in place. Soak the
from drain or garbage disposer beneath sink. Clean hose with new gasket in warm soapy water to make it more pliable and
water and bleach, or replace. Restore power and water supply. to lubricate it. Install the new gasket by pressing or sliding it
Test unit to make sure it drains properly. into its track. If the gasket has screws or clips, refasten as you
go. Work from the center of the door to the ends.
I How to Test a Valve & Replace the Valve Screen
Turn off the power and water supply. Remove the access Disconnect the water supply tube. Loosen the valve
panel and locate the water supply connection. Disconnect bracket screws and remove valve. Remove the screen, using
wires from the inlet valve terminals. Attach continuity tester a small screwdriver. Replace the screen with a new one and
clip to one term inal and touch the probe to the other. If the reinstall the valve.
tester does not glow, the solenoid is faulty and should be
replaced. To replace the screen, place a shallow pan beneath
the valve. Release the clamp and pull the fill tube from the
valve outlet.

I Your Electrical System
E lectrica l powe r that enters the home is produced
by large power plants. Power plants are loca ted in
all parts of the country a nd generate elec tricity with
c urre nt to large, 240-vo lt app li a nces like c loth es dryers
or electric wa ter h eaters.
Incom ing power passes through an e lectri c meter
turbines that are turned by wate r, wi nd, m steam. that measu res power co nsumption . Power then e nters
From these plan ts e lectr ic ity enters la rge "step- up" the se rvice panel, w here it is di str ibuted to c irc uits
transformers th at in crease vo ltage to h alf a million that run throu ghout th e hou se. The serv ice panel also
volts or more. co ntains fuses or c ircuit breakers that shut off power
Electri city Aows eas il y at these large vo ltages to the indi vidua l c irc uits in the eve nt of a short c ircu it
a nd travels through hi gh-vo ltage transmission lines or an overload. Certa in hi gh-wattage app li a nces, like
to co mmuniti es that ca n be hundreds of mil es from microwave ovens, are usually plugged into their own
th e power pla nts. "Step-down" transform ers located indi vidu a l c irc uits to prevent overl oa ds.
at substations th en redu ce th e voltage for di stribution Voltage ratings determined by power co mpani es
along street lin es. On utility power poles, sma lle r and manufact ure rs have c ha nged over the years.
tra nsform ers furth er reduce the voltage to ordinary Cur re nt rated at 110 vo lts c hanged toilS vo lts,
120-vo lt c un-e nt fm hou se hol d use. then 120 volts. C urren t rated at 220 volts changed
Lines ca rrying c urrent to the hou se e ith e r run to 230 vo lts, th e n 240 volts. Simila rl y, ratings fo r
undergro und or are strung overhead a nd a ttach ed to receptacles, tools , li ght fixtures, and appliances have
a post call ed a service mast. Most homes built after changed from lIS volts to 125 volts. These changes
1950 have three wires running to the se rvice head: two will not affect the perfmmance of new devices
power lin es, eac h ca rrying 120 vo lts of c mrent, a nd a connected to older wirin g. For ma kin g e lect ri ca l
gro unded ne utral wire. Power from the two 120-volt calc ulation s, use a rating of 120 volts or 240 volts for
lines may be combined at the service pa nel to supply your c ircuits.
Power plants supply electricity to Substations are located near the Utility pole transformers reduce the
thousands of homes and businesses. commun ities they serve. A typical high-voltage current that flows through
Step-up transformers increase the substation takes current from power lines along neighborhood streets.
voltage produced at the plant, making high-voltage transmission lines and A utility pole transformer reduces
the power flow more easily along red uces it for distribution along voltage from 10,000 volts to the normal
high-voltage transmission lines. street lines. 120-volt current used in households.

I Parts of the Electrical System
The service mast, anchors the service wires to the home. The electric meter measures the amount of electrical power
Three wires provide the standard 240-volt service necessary consumed. It is usually attached to the side of the house, and
for the average home. connects to the service mast. A thin metal disc inside the
meter rotates when power is used. The electric meter belongs
to your local power utility company. If you suspect the meter is
not functioning properly, contact the power company.
Grounding wire connects the electrical system to the Light fixtures attach directly to a household electrical
earth through grounding rods or, in older systems, through a system. They are usually controlled with wall switches. The
cold water pipe. In the event of an overload or short circuit, the two common types of light fixtures are incandescent and
grounding wire allows excess electrical power to find its way fluorescent.
harmlessly to the earth.

The main service panel, sometimes called a fuse box or Electrical boxes enclose wire connections. According to
breaker box, distributes power to individual circuits. Fuses or the National Electrical Code, all wire splices or connections
circuit breakers protect each circuit from short circuits and must be contained entirely in a plastic or metal electrical box.
overloads. Fuses and circuit breakers also are used to shut off
power to individual circuits while repairs are made.
+
Switches control electrical current passing through hot Receptacles, sometimes called outlets, provide plug-in
circuit wires. Switches can be wired to control light fixtures. access to electrical power. A 120-volt, 15-amp receptacle
ceiling fans. appliances. and receptacles. with a grounding hole is the most typical receptacle in wiring
systems installed after 1965. Most receptacles have two
plug-in locations and are called duplex receptacles.

I Understanding Circuits
n electrical circuit is a continuous loop.
A Household circuits carry power from the main
service panel , throughout the house , and back to the
main service panel. Several sw itches, receptacles,
light fixtures, or appliances may be connected to a
singl e circuit.
Current enters a circuit loop on hot wires and
returns along neutral wires. These wires are color
coded for easy id e ntificat ion. Hot wires are black
or red, and neutral wires are white or light gray.
For safety, most circuits include a bare copper or
green insulated grounding wire . The grounding wire
conducts current in th e eve nt of a short circuit or
overload, and helps reduce the chance of severe
electrical shock. The service panel also has a
grounding wire connected to a metal wate r pipe and
metal grounding rod buri ed undergro und.
If a circuit carries too much power, it can
overload. A fuse or a circuit breaker protects each
circuit in case of overloads.
Current returns to th e service panel along a
neutral circuit wire. Current then becomes part
of a main circuit and leaves the house on a large
ne utral service wi re that return s it to the utility
pole transform er.
420 • THE CO I\ IPLETE PHOTO GUIDE TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

I Electricity & Safety
S afety should be the primaly concern of anyone working
with electricity. Although most hou sehold electrical
repairs are simple and straightforward, always use caution
by testing fo r power w ith a neo n circuit tester. Restore
power only wh e n the re pa ir or replacement project
is co mpl e te.
and good judgme nt when working w ith electrical w iring or Follow the safety tips s how n on these pages.
devices. Common sense ca n prevent accidents. Neve r atte mpt a n e lect ri ca l project beyo nd yo ur
T h e basic rule of electric al sa fe ty is: Always turn skill or co nfid e nce level. Never attempt to repa ir or
off power to th e area or device you are wo rking on. At replace your main service pan e l or servic e e ntran ce
the main se rvice panel , re move the fuse or shut off head. These are jobs for a qual ifi ed e lectr ic ia n a nd
the ci rcuit breaker that controls the ci rc uit you a re re quire that the power co mpan y shuts off power to
servicing. T h e n ch eck to m a ke s ure the power is off your hou se.
Shut off power to the proper circuit Make a map of your household Close service panel door and post
at the fuse box or main service panel electrical circuits to help you turn a warning sign to prevent others from
before beginning work. the proper circuits on and off for turning on power while you are working
electrical repairs. on electrical projects.
Keep a flashlight near your main Always check for power at the Use only UL approved electrical
service panel. Check flashlight fixture you are servicing before you parts or devices. These devices
batteries regu la rly. begin any work. have been tested for safety by
Underwriters Laboratories.

Wear rubber-soled shoes while Use fiberglass or wood ladders Use GFCI receptacles (ground-fault
working on electrical projects. On damp when making routine household repairs circuit-interrupters) where specified by
floors, stand on a rubber mat or dry near the service head. local and national electrical codes.
wooden boards.
Protect children with receptacle caps Use extension cords only for Use correct fuses or breakers in the
or childproof receptacle covers. temporary connections. Never place main service panel. Never install a fuse
them underneath rugs or fasten them to or breaker that has a higher amperage
walls, baseboards, or other surfaces. rating than the circuit wires.
Do not touch metal pipes, faucets, Never alter the prongs of a plug to Do not drill walls or ceilings without
or fixtures while working with electricity. fit a receptacle. If possible, install a new first shutting off electrical power to
The metal may provide a grounding grounded receptacle. the circuits that may be hidden. Use
path, allowing electrical current to flow double-insulated tools.
through your body.

I Fuses & Circuit Breakers
F uses and c ircuit breakers are safety devices
designed to protect the e lectric al system from
short circuits and overloads. Fuses and circuit
bt'eakers are located in the main service panel.
Most service panels insta ll ed before 1965 rely
on fuses to control and protect individual circuits.
Screw-in plug fuses protect 120-volt circuits that
power lights and receptacles. Cartridge fuses protect
240-vo lt app li ance ci rcuits and th e main shutoff of th e
service panel.
In side eac h fuse is a current-carrying metal alloy
ribbon. If a circuit is overloaded, the metal ribbon
melts and stops the flow of power. A fuse must match
the amperage rating of the c ircuit. Never replace a
fuse with one that has a larger amperage rating.
In most service panels installed after 1965, circuit
breakers protect an d control indi vidual circ uits.
Single-pole circu it breakers protect 120-volt circuits,
and double-pole circuit breakers protect 240-volt
ci rcuits. Amperage rat ings for c ircuit breakers range
from 15 to 100 amps. Fuses are used in older service panels, Plug fuses
Each circuit breaker has a permanent metal strip usually control 120-volt circuits rated for 15, 20, or 30 amps.
that heats up and bends when voltage passes through Tamper-proof plug fuses have threads that fit only matching
sockets, making it impossible to install a wrong-sized fuse.
it. If a circuit is overloaded, the metal strip in sid e the
Time-delay fuses absorb temporary heavy power loads without
breaker bends enough to "trip" the switch and stop the blowing. Cartridge fuses control 240-volt circuits and range
fl ow of power. If a c ircu it breaker trips frequently even from 15 to 100 amps.
though the power demand is small, the mechanism
in side the breaker may be wo rn out. Worn c irc uit
breakers shou ld be replaced by an e lectrician. IS-amp
W h en a fuse blows or a c irc uit breaker trips, it is
usually beca use there are too many light fixtures and
plug-in appliances dmwing power through the c ircu it.
WCl
Move some of th e plug-in app li ances to anot he r oI:Jcait
c irc uit, then replace the fuse or reset the breaker. If
the fuse blows or the breaker trips again imm ed iate ly,
there may be a short c irc uit in the syste m, Call a
li censed electric ian if you suspect a sh ort circuit.

Circuit breakers are found in the majority of panels installed
since the 1960s. single-pole breakers control 120-volt circuits.
Fuse puller and contin uity tester Double-pole breakers rated for 15 to 100 amps control 240-volt
(for cartridge fuses on ly) circuits. Ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) and arc-fault
Replacement fuse circuit interrupter (AFCI) breakers provide protection from
shocks and fire-causing arcs for the entire circuit

I How to Identify & Replace a Blown Plug Fuse
locate the blown fuse at the main service panel. If Unscrew the fuse, being careful to touch only the insulated
the metal ribbon inside is cleanly melted, the circuit was rim of the fuse. Replace it with a fuse that has the same
overloaded. If window is discolored, there was a short circuit in amperage rating.
the system.
I How to Remove, Test & Replace a Cartridge Fuse
Remove cartridge fuses by gripping Remove the individual cartridge Test each fuse, using a continuity
the handle of the fuse block and fuses from the block, using a fuse puller. tester. If the tester glows, the fuse is
pulling sharply. good. If not, install a new fuse with the
same amperage rating.
I How to Reset a Circuit Breaker
open the service panel and locate Reset the tripped circuit breaker by Test AFCI and GFCI circuit breakers
the tripped breaker. The lever on the pressing the circuit breaker lever all the monthly by pushing the TEST button.
tripped breaker will be either in the OFF way to the OFF position, then pressing it Breaker should trip to the OFF position.
position, or in a position between ON to the ON position. If not, the breaker is faulty and must be
and OFF. replaced by an electrician .

I Evaluating Old Wiring
f th e wiring in your hom e is more th a n 30 yea rs ol d,
I
it may have a number of age-re lated proble ms. Ma ny
probl e ms assoc iated with olde r wiring can be found by
powe r. To do thi s, yo u mu st t urn o n a ll wa ll
switc hes to ac ti va te th e h ot c irc uit wires, th e n
sto p powe r co nsumpti on by re mov in g li ghtbulb s
in specting electri cal boxes fm d irty wire connec ti ons, a nd flu oresce nt t ub es, a nd di sco nn ect in g a ll la mp s
signs of a rc ing, nac ked or da maged wire ins ulat ion , or a nd a ppli a nces.
dirt buildup. The n exa min e th e e lec tric mete r, usuall y loca ted
H oweve r, it is diffic ult to ide nti fy proble ms with on th e outside of th e h ouse near th e se rvice head. If
wirin g that is hidde n ins ide the wa lls. If old wires are the fl at, circ ul ar rotor in s ide the mete r is turning, it
du sty a nd have da maged insul ati o n, th ey ca n "lea k" mea ns that a high-res ista nce sho rt c irc ui t is ca usin g
elec tri ca l c urre nt. T he a mount of c urre nt th at leaks an elec tri ca l lea k so mewh ere in the wiring. High -
th ro ugh du st us ually is very s mall , too small to trip res ista nce shm t c irc uits co nsum e ve ry sma ll a mounts
a breake r or blow a fu se. Neve rth eless, by all owin g of power, so you should watch the rotor for a full
curre nt to leave its norm al path , these leaks co nsum e minute to detect a ny move me nt.
powe r in much the sa me way th at a d rip ping fa ucet If the test s hows the re is a high-res ista nce sho rt
wastes water. c irc uit in yo ur wirin g, co ntac t a li ce nsed elec tri c ia n to
T hi s kind of e lectri ca l lea k is ca ll ed a have it repa ired.
hi gh-res istance short c irc uit. A hi gh-res istance sh ort
circuit ca n produ ce heat a nd sh ould be conside red a
fi re haza rd .
It is poss ibl e to c hec k fo r hi gh-res ista nce Tools & Materials ｾ＠
sh ort c irc uits b y us in g yo ur elect ri c me te r to tes t
th e wires of eac h c irc uit. T h e goa l of th e tes t is to Sc rewdri ver Maskin g tape
dete rmin e if e lect ri c ity is be in g co nsum e d eve n W ire co nnec tors Pe n
if no ne o f t he li g hts a nd app li a nces a re draw in g
ｾＢＧＮＺ･Ｌ［＠ .....［Ｎｾ＠ ....ｾＺ［ｲＮＬｾＢＧＷＮｾＬＮＢｏ［ｲＭｾﾷＺ［ｾＬ＠ .• :/.... - . , -'., -,,'-."" ',-,." Ｎｾ＠ ..•.'.,", c- Ｎ［ｾＧ＠
ＮＡｾ｟ ?,
ＭＧ＠ _ _ . .ｾ［ﾥＢ＠ .. ｾ＠ :..o';" _' ..Ｂｾ＠Ｎ｟ＭＺＺＮｲＭｾ＠ .;. .,'.. 11._ ,r.:. .. ｾ＠ ..ｾＷｦｲＮＺ［ＧｬＹＺＬｹ｟ｾ［ＱＺＢＮＭ .. _. .. .' -'i • • • ' " " . " .
- -.. . ｾｾ＠ . .. ' . - .-

I How to Evaluate Old wiring for High-resistance Short Circuits
1 3
Switch on all light fixtures. Stop all power consumption by Disconnect all plug-in lamps and
Remember to turn on closet lights, removing all lightbulbs and fluorescent appliances from the receptacles.
basement lights, and exterior lights. tubes. Turn off all thermostats.
Shut off power to all permanently wired appliances by With the power turned off. disconnect circuit wires from
turning off the correct breakers or removing the correct fuses each permanently wired appliance. Cap the wire ends with
at the service panel. Permanently wired appliances include wire connectors. Next, turn on power and make sure all
attic fans, water heaters, and ceiling fans. appliance wall switches are turned on.
(continued)

7
Watch the circular rotor located inside the electric meter Turn off power to all circuits at the main service panel by
for at least one minute. If the rotor does not move, then your switching off circuit breakers or removing fuses. Do not turn off
wiring is in good condition. If the rotor moves, it means there main shutoff. Watch the rotor inside the meter. If rotor moves,
is a high-resistance short circuit somewhere in the wiring then the high-resistance short circuit is located in the main
system: proceed to step 7. service panel or service wiring. In this case, consult a licensed
electrician. If rotor does not move, proceed to step 8.
10
I
Turn on individual circuits, one If the rotor is moving. then use If circuit contains three-way or
at a time, by switching on the circuit masking tape to mark the faulty circuit. four-way switches, flip the lever on each
breaker or inserting the fuse. Watch for Turn off power to the circuit, then switch individually, and watch for rotor
rotor movement in the electric meter. If proceed to the next circuit. movement after each flip of a switch.
rotor does not move, wiring is in good
condition. Turn off power to the circuit,
then proceed to the next circuit.

If.... _
For each faulty circuit, identify the appliances, lights, Recheck all lights and appliances along each faulty circuit
switches, receptacles, and electrical junction boxes powered to make sure they are not consuming power. If they are,
by the circuit. Use a map of your home wiring system as disconnect them and repeat test.
a guide.
Inspect the electrical boxes along each faulty circuit for If no problems are found in electrical boxes, then the
dirty wire connections, damaged wire insulation, dirt buildup, high-resistance short circuit is in wiring contained inside the
or signs of arcing. walls. In this case, consult a licensed electrician.

I Inspector's Notebook
n e lectr ica l inspector vis itin g your hom e wir ing and devices. Most public libraries carry
A might id ent ify a number of situations that
are not "up to code." These situation s may not be
reference copies of the NEC.
All electrica l in spectors are required to be well
immediate problems. In fact , it is possible that the versed in the NEC. Their job is to know the NEC
wiring in your home has t"emained trouble-free for regulations and to make sure these rules are followed
many years. in order to prevent fires and ens ure safety" If yo u have
Nevertheless, any wiring or device that is not up questions regarding your home wirin g system, your
to code carries the potential for problems, often at local inspector wil l be happy to answer them.
risk to your home and your family. [n addition, you While a book like The Comp lete Photo Guide
may have trouble sellin g your home if it is not wired to Home Repair cannot possibly identify all potential
accord in g to accepted methods. wiring problems in your house, we have created the
Most local electrical codes are based on the "Inspector's Notebook" to help you identify some of
Nationa l Electrical Code (NEC), a book updated the most common w iring defects and show you how
and published every three years by the Nationa l Fire to correct them. \ l\Then working on hom e wirin g repair
Protection Agency. This code book co ntain s rules and or replacement projects, refer to this sect ion to help
regulations for the proper installation of e lectrica l id e ntify any cond ition s that may be hazardous.

I Service Panel Inspection
, ,
2D ..
Problem : Rust stains are found inside the main service panel. Solution: Have an electrician examine the service head and
This problem occurs because water seeps into the service the main service panel. If the panel or service wires have been
head outside the house and drips down into the service panel. damaged, new electrical service must be installed.
Problem : This problem is actually a very old and very Solution: Remove the penny and replace the fuse. Have a
dangerous solution. A penny or a knockout behind a fuse licensed electrician examine the panel and circuit wiring. If the
effectively bypasses the fuse, preventing an overloaded circuit fuse has been bypassed for years, wiring may be dangerously
from blowing the fuse. This is very dangerous and can lead to compromised, and the circuit may need to be replaced.
overheated wiring.
(continued)

Problem : Two wires connected to one single-pole breaker is Solution: If there is room in the panel, install a separate
a sign of an overcrowded panel and also a dangerous code breaker for the extra wire. If the panel is overcrowded have an
violation unless the breaker is approved for such a connection. electrician upgrade the panel or install a subpanel.
Recognizing Aluminum Wire ｾ＠
Inexpensive aluminum wire was used in place of copper compatibility rating of AL-CU were used with both
in many wiring systems installed during the late 1960s and aluminum and copper wiring. However, these
early 1970s, when copper prices were high. Aluminum devices proved to be hazardous when connected to
wire is identified by its silver color and by the AL stamp on aluminum wire. AL-CU devices should not be used with
the cable sheathing. A variation, copper-clad aluminum aluminum wiring.
wire, has a thin coating of copper bonded to a solid In 1971, switches and receptacles designed for use
aluminum core. with aluminum wiring were introduced . They are marked
By the early 1970s, all-aluminum wire was found to CO/ALR. This mark is now the only approved rating
pose a safety hazard if connected to a switch or recep- for aluminum wires. If your home has aluminum wires
tacle with brass or copper screw terminals. Because connected to a switch or receptacle without a COl ALR
aluminum expands and contracts at a different rate than rating stamp, replace the device
copper or brass, the wire connections could become with a switch or receptacle
loose. In some instances, fires resulted. rated COl ALR.
Existing aluminum wiring in homes is considered A switch or receptacle
safe if proper installation methods have been followed, that has no wire compatibility
and if the wires are connected to special switches and rating printed on the mounting
receptacles designed to be used with aluminum wire. If strap or casing should not be
you have aluminum wire in your home, have a qualified used with aluminum wires.
electrical inspector review the system. Copper-coated These devices
aluminum wire is not a hazard. are designed
For a short while, switches and receptacles for use
with an Underwriters Laboratories (UL) wire with copper
wires only.

I Inspecting the Grounding Jumper Wire
Problem : Grounding system jumper wire is missing or is solution : Attach a jumper wire to the water pipes on either
disconnected. In most homes the grounding jumper wire side of the water meter, using pipe clamps. Use #6 gauge bare
attaches to water pipes on either side of the water meter. copper wire for services that are 1S0-amp or smaller. Use #4
Because the ground pathway is broken, this is a dangerous gauge bare copper wire for 200-amp service.
situation that should be fixed immediately.
I Common Cable Problems
Problem : Cable running across joists or studs is attached to Solution: Protect cable by drilling holes in framing members
the edge of framing members. Electrical codes forbid this type at least 2" from exposed edges, and threading the cable
of installation in exposed areas, like unfinished basements or through the holes.
walk-up attics.
(continued)

Problem : Cable running along joists or studs hangs loosely. Solution: Anchor the cable to the side of the framing
Loose cables can be pulled accidentally, causing damage members at least 1'14' from the edge, using plastic staples. NM
to wires. (nonmetallic) cable should be stapled every 4V2 feet and within
12" of each electrical box.
Problem : Cable threaded through studs or joists lies close Solution: Install metal nail guards to protect cable from
to the edge of the framing members. NM (nonmetallic) cable damage. Nail guards are available at hardware stores and
(shown cutaway) can be damaged easily if nails or screws are home centers.
driven into the framing members during remodeling projects

Problem : unclamped cable enters a metal electrical box. Solution: Anchor the cable to the electrical box with a cable
Edges of the knockout can rub against the cable sheathing and clamp. Several types of cable clamps are available at hardware
damage the wires. (Note: With plastic boxes, clamps are not stores and home centers.
required if cables are anchored to framing members within 12"
of box)
Problem : Cables are spliced outside an electrical box. Solution: Bring installation "up to code" by enclosing the
Exposed splices can spark and create a risk of shock or fire. splice inside a metal or plastic electrical box. Make sure the
box is large enough for the number of wires it contains.

I Checking Wire Connections
Problem : Two or more wires are attached to a single screw solution: Disconnect the wires from the screw terminal, then
terminal. This type of connection is seen in older wiring but is join them to a short length of wire (called a pigtail), using a
now prohibited by the National Electrical Code. wire connector. Connect the other end of the pigtail to the
screw terminal.
Problem : Bare wire extends past a screw terminal. Exposed solution: Clip the wire, and reconnect it to the screw terminal.
wire can cause a short circuit if it touches the metal box or In a proper connection, the bare wire wraps completely around
another circuit wire. the screw terminal, and the plastic insulation just touches the
screw head.
Problem: Wires are connected with electrical tape. Electrical tape Solution: Replace electrical tape with wire connectors. You
was used frequently in older installations, but it can deteriorate may need to clip away a small portion of the wire so the bare
over time, leaving bare wires exposed inside the electrical box. end will be covered completely by the connector.

Problem : Nicks and scratches in bare wires interfere with the Solution: Clip away damaged portion of wire, then restrip
flow of current. This can cause the wires to overheat. about %" of insulation and reconnect the wire to the
screw terminal.
I Electrical Box Inspection
Problem : No protective sleeve on armored cable. Sharp edges Solution: Protect the wire insulation by installing plastic
of the cable can damage the wire insulation, creating a shock or fiber sleeves around the wires. Sleeves are available at
hazard and fire risk. hardware stores. Wires that are damaged must be replaced.
Problem : Insulation on wires is cracked or damaged . If Solution: wrap damaged insulation temporarily with plastic
damaged insulation exposes bare wire, a short circuit can electrical tape. Damaged circuit wires should be replaced by
occur, posing a shock hazard and fire risk. an electrician.
(continued)

Problem: Open electrical boxes create a fire hazard if a short Solution: Cover the open box with a solid metal coverplate,
circuit causes sparks (arcing) inside the box. available at any hardware store. Electrical boxes must remain
accessible and cannot be sealed inside ceilings or walls.
Problem : Short wires are difficult to handle. The National Solution: Lengthen circuit wires by connecting them to short
Electrical Code (NEC) requires that each wire in an electrical pigtail wires, using wire connectors. Pigtails can be cut from
box have at least 6" of workable length. scrap wire, but should be the same gauge and color as the
circuit wires and at least 6" long.
Problem : Recessed electrical box is hazardous, especially if Solution: Add an extension ring to bring the face of the
the wall or ceiling surface is made from a flammable material, electrical box flush with the surface. Extension rings come in
like wood paneling. The National Electrical Code prohibits this several sizes, and are available at hardware stores.
type of installation.

Problem : open electrical boxes create a fire hazard if a short Solution: Vacuum electrical box clean, using a narrow nozzle
circuit causes sparks. Dust and dirt in electrical box can cause attachment. Make sure power to box is turned off at main
hazardous high-resistance short circuits (page 426). When service panel before vacuuming.
making routine electrical repairs, always check the electrical
boxes for dust and dirt buildup
Problem : Crowded electrical box (shown cutaway) makes Solution: Replace the electrical box with a deeper
electrical repairs difficult. This type of installation is prohibited electrical box.
because wires can be damaged easily when a receptacle or
switch is installed.
Problem : Light fixture is installed without an electrical box. Solution: Install an approved electrical box to enclose the
This installation exposes the wiring connections, and provides wire connections and support the light fixture.
no support for the light fixture.

I Common Electrical Cord Problems
Problem : Lamp or appliance cord runs underneath a rug. Foot Solution: Reposition the lamp or appliance so that cord is
traffic can wear off insulation, creating a short circuit that can visible. Replace worn cords.
cause fire or shock.
Coverplate
screw
Adapter
Problem : Three-prong appliance plugs do not fit two slot Solution: Install a three-prong grounded receptacle if a means
receptacle. Do not use three-prong adapters unless the metal of grounding exists at the box. Install a GFCI (ground-fault
loop on the adapter is tightly connected to the coverplate circuit-interrupter) receptacle in kitchens and bathrooms, or
screw on receptacle. if the electrical box is not grounded.

Problem : Lamp or appliance plug is cracked, or electrical cord Solution: Cut away damaged portion of wire and install a new
is frayed near plug. Worn cords and plugs create a fire and plug. Replacement plugs are available at appliance stores and
shock hazard. home centers.
Problem : Extension cord is too small for the power load Solution: Use an extension cord with wattage and amperage
drawn by a tool or appliance. Undersized extension cords ratings that meet or exceed the rating of the tool or appliance.
can overheat, melting the insulation and leaving bare Extension cords are for temporary use only Never use an
wi res exposed. extension cord for a permanent installation.

I Inspecting Receptacles & Switches
Problem : Octopus receptacle attachments used permanently Solution: Use a multi-receptacle power strip with built-in
can overload a circuit and cause overheating of the receptacle. overload protection. This is for temporary use only. If the need
for extra receptacles is frequent, upgrade the wiring system.
Problem : Scorch marks near screw terminals indicate that Solution: Clean wires with fine sandpaper, and replace
electrical arcing has occurred. Arcing usually is caused by the receptacle if it is badly damaged. Make sure wires are
loose wire connections. connected securely to screw terminals.
Problem : Exterior receptacle box allows water to enter box Solution: Replace the old receptacle box (no longer code
when receptacles slots are in use. compliant) with an in-use box that has a bubble cover to
protect plugs from water while they are in the slots.

Problem : White neutral wires are connected to switch. Solution: Connect the black hot wires to the switch, and join
Although switch appears to work correctly in this installation, the white wires together with a wire connector.
it is dangerous because light fixture carries voltage when the
switch is off.
Problem : White neutral wires are connected to the brass Solution: Reverse the wire connections so that the black hot
screw terminals on the receptacle, and black hot wires wires are attached to brass screw terminals and white neutral
are attached to silver screw terminals. This installation is wires are attached to silver screw terminals. Live voltage now
hazardous because live voltage flows into the long neutral slot flows into the short slot on the receptacle.
on the receptacle.

I Common Receptacle Problems
H ous e hold receptac les, also called outlets, ha ve
no moving parts to wear out a nd us uall y last
for many years without servicing. Most problem s
associated with receptacles are actually caused
by faulty lamps and appliances, or th e ir plugs
and cords. However, the constant plugging in and
removal of appliance cords can wear out the metal
contacts in s ide a receptacle. Any receptacle that
does not hold plugs firml y s hould be re placed. In
addition, older receptacle mad e of hard plastic may
hard e n a nd crack with age. They mu st be replaced
when this happe ns.
A loos e wire co nn ec tion within the receptacl e
box is another possible problem. A loose connection
can spark (called arcing) , trip a circuit breaker,
or cause heat to build up in the rece ptacle box,
creating a pote ntial fire hazard.
\,lJires can come loose for a number of reasons.
Everyday vibrations caused by walking across floors ,
or from nea rby street traffic, may ca use a connection
to shake loose. In addition, beca use wires hea t and
cool with normal use, the ends of the wires will
expand and contract slightly. This movement also
may cause th e wires to come loose from th e screw
terminal connections.
Not a ll recep tacles are created equally. When
replacin g, make sure to buy one with the same amp
rating as the old one. Inadvertentl y insta lling a 20-amp
receptacl e in rep laceme nt of a IS-amp receptac le is a
very co mmon error.
See Inspector's Notebook ｾ＠

Checking Wire Connections
(pages 436 to 4 37)
Electrical Box Inspection
(pages 43 7 to 4 39)
Inspecting Receptacles & Switches
(pages 442 to 44 3)

Problem Repair
Circuit breaker trips repeatedly, or fuse burns out immediately 1. Repa ir or replace worn or damaged lamp or appliance cord.
after being replaced. 2. Move lamps or appliances to other circuits to prevent overloads.
3. Tighten any loose wire connections (page 455).
4. Clean dirty or oxidized wire ends (page 454).
Lam por appliance does not work. 1. Make sure lam por appliance is plugged in.
2. Replace burned·out bulbs.
3. Repa ir or replace worn or damaged lamp or appliance cord.
4. Tighten any loose wire connections (page 455).
5. Clean dirty or oxidized wire ends (page 45 4).
6. Repa ir or replace any fau lty receptacle (pages 454 to 455).
Receptacle does not hold plugs firmly. 1. Repa ir or replace worn or damaged plugs.
2. Replace fa ulty receptacle (pages 454 to 455).
Receptacle is worm to the touch, buzzes, or sparks when plugs 1. Move lamps or appliances to other circuits to prevent overloads.
are inserted or removed. 2. Tighten any loose wire connections (page 455).
3. Clean dirty or oxidized wire ends (page 454).
4. Replace fau lty receptacle (pages 454 to 455).
Stamp of Mounting The standard duplex receptacle has two halves for receiving
approval strap plugs. Each half has a long (neutral) slot, a short (hot) slot,
Long and a u-shaped grounding hole. The slots fit the wide prong.
(neutral) Push-in narrow prong. and grounding prong of a three-prong plug. This
slot Wire fitting
Short ensures that the connection between receptacle and plug wi ll
(hot) be polarized and grounded for safety.
Grounding
hole ｾ＠ slot Wires are attached to the receptacle at screw terminals or
push-in fittings. A connecting tab between the screw terminals
Voltage ( Connecting allows a variety of different wiring configurations Receptacles
rating tab also include mounting straps for attaching to electrical boxes.
Stamps of approval from testing agencies are found on
the front and back of the receptacle. Look for the symbol UL
or UND. LAB. INC. LIST to make sure the receptacle meets the
strict standards of Underwriters Laboratories.
Amperage
I The receptacle is marked with ratings for maximum volts
and amps. The common receptacle is marked 15A. 125V.
rating
Receptacles marked CU or COPPER are used with solid
copper wire. Those marked CU-CLAD ONLY are used with
copper-coated aluminum wire. Only receptacles marked
screw CO/ALR may be used with solid aluminum wiring (page 432).
terminals
Receptacles marked AUCU no longer may be used with
FRONT
aluminum wire. according to code.
Brass (hot)
screw terminals

I Receptacle Wiring
120-vo lt dupl ex receptac le ca n be wired to the
A e lec tri ca l syste m in a numbe r of ways . T he most
co mmon are shown on th ese pages.
Wirin g configmation s may va ry s li ghtl y from
th ese photographs , de pe ndin g on th e kind of
rece ptac les used, th e type of ca bl e, or th e tec hnique
of the e lec tri c ia n who install ed th e wiring. To make
de pe ndabl e re pairs or re place me nts, use mas kin g ta pe
and labe l eac h wire accord ing to its loca ti on on the
te rmina ls of th e existing rece ptac le.
Receptac les are wired as e ith e r e nd -oF-run or
middl e-oF- run. Th ese two basic configurati ons are
eas ily id e ntifi ed by counting th e numb e r of ca bl es
e nte ring th e receptacle box. E nd-o F-run wiring ha s
onl y one cab le, indicating th at th e c irc uit e nd s.
Middl e-of-run wiring has two ca bl es, indi ca tin g that
the c irc uit continues on to othe r rece ptac les , sw itch es,
or fixtures . Single cable entering the box indicates end-ol-run wi ring.
A split-c irc uit rece ptac le is show n on the next The black hot wire is attached to a brass screw term inal, and
page. Eac h ha lf of a split-circ uit rece ptac le is wired the white neutral wi re is connected to a silver screw terminal.
to a separa te ci rc uit. Th is all ows two a pp li a nces of II the box is metal, the grounding wi re is pigtailed to the
grounding screws 01 the receptacle and the box. In a plastic
h igh wa ttage to be plugged into th e sa me receptacle
box, the grounding wi re is attached directly to the grounding
with out bl ow ing a Fuse or trip ping a brea ke r. Thi s screw terminal 01 the receptacle.
wil'ing co nfi guration is s imila r to a receptac le th at
is co ntroll ed by a wa ll switch. Code requires a
sw itc h-controlled receptacle in a ny room th at does not
have a bu il t-in light fixture ope rated by a wa ll switch.
Split-c irc uit and switc h-co ntroll ed rece ptacl es
a re conn ec ted to two hot wires, so use ca uti on during
re pa irs or replaceme nts. Ma ke sure the co nnec ting tab
betwee n the hot sc rew te rmin als is re moved.
Two-s lot rece ptac les a re co m mo n in olde r hom es,
The re is no ground ing wire attac hed to th e receptac le,
but th e box may be ground ed with arm ored ca b le
or conduit.
TwO cables entering the box indicate middle-ol-run wiring.

Black hot wi res are connected to brass screw terminals, and
white neutral wi res to silver screw term inals. The grounding
wire is pigtailed to the grounding screws 01 the receptacle and
the box.
446 • T HE CO I\ IPLET E PHOTO GU ID E TO HOI\ IE BEPAIB

Split-circuit receptacle is attached
to a black hot wire, a red hot wire,
a white neutral wire, and a bare
grounding wire. The wiring is similar to a
switch-controlled receptacle.
The hot wires are attached to the brass
screw terminals, and the connecting
tab or fin between the brass terminals
is removed. The white wire is attached
to a silver screw terminal, and the
connecting tab on the neutral side remains
intact The grounding wire is pigtailed
to the grounding screw terminal of the
receptacle and to the grounding screw
attached to the box.
Two-slot receptacle is often found

in older homes. The black hot wires are
connected to the brass screw terminals,
and the white neutral wires are pigtailed to
a silver screw terminal.
Two-slot receptacles may be replaced
with three-slot types, but only if a means
of grounding exists at the receptacle box.
You can also replace a two-slot receptacle
with a GFCI receptacle that's marked with
a sticker indicating no equipment ground.

I Basic Types of Receptacles
S evera l different types of receptacles a re found in
the typ ica l home. Each has a unique arrangement
of slots that accepts on ly a certain kind of p lu g, and
125 volts. For purposes of replace ment, th ese ratin gs
are considered identical. H igh-voltage receptac les
are rated at 220, 240, or 250 vo lts. These rat ings a re
each is des igned for a spec ifi c job. cons ide red id e nti cal.
Household receptac les provide two types of When replacin g a receptac le, check the
vo ltage: normal and hi gh vo ltage. Although voltage amperage ratin g of the c ircuit at the main service
ratings have c hanged slightly over t he yea rs , normal pane l, a nd buy a receptac le with the co rrect
receptacles should be rated for 110, 11 5, 120, or amperage rating.
15 amps, 120 volts. Polarized two-slot 15 amps, 120 volts. Three-slot 20 amps, 120 volts. This three-slot
receptacle is common in homes built grounded receptacle has two different grounded receptacle features a special
before 1960. Slots are different sizes to size slots and a U-shaped hole for T-shaped slot. It is installed for use with
accept polarized plugs. grounding. It is required in all new large appliances or portable tools that
wiring installations. require 20 amps of current.
( I
I I
15 amps, 240 volts. This receptacle 30 amps, 120/240 volts. This 50 amps, 120/240 volts. This
is used primarily for window air receptacle is used for clothes dryers. receptacle is used for ranges. The
conditioners. It is available as a single It provides high-voltage current for high-voltage current powers heating
unit or as half of a duplex receptacle heating coils and 120-volt current to run coils, and the 120-volt current runs
with the other half wired for 120 volts. lights and timers. clocks and lights.

I Older Receptacles
O lder receptacles may look different from more
modern types , but most w ill stay in good working
order. Fo llow these simple guide lin es for eva luating or
replacing older receptacles:
• Never replace an older receptacle with one of a

different vo ltage or higher amperage rating.
• Any two-slot, unpolarized receptacle shou ld be
replaced with a two-slot polarized receptacle.
• If no means of grounding is avai lab le at the
receptacle box, install a CFCI (page 457 ).
• If in doubt, seek the advice of a qualified
electrician.
Never alter the prongs of a plug to fit a n older Unpolarized receptacles Surface-mounted
receptacle. Altering the prongs may remove the have slots that are the same receptacles were popular
grounding or polarizing features of the plug. length. Modern plug types in the 1940s and 1950s for
may not fit these receptacles. their ease of installation.
Never modify the prongs of a Wiring often ran in the back of
polarized plug to fit the slots hollowed-out base moldings.
of an unpolarized receptacle. Surface-mounted receptacles
are usually ungrounded.
Ceramic duplex receptacles were Twist-lock receptacles are designed Ceramic duplex receptacle has a
manufactured in the 1930s. They are to be used with plugs that are inserted unique hourglass shape. The receptacle
polarized but ungrounded, and they are and rotated. A small tab on the end of shown above is rated for 250 volts but
wired for 120 volts. one of the prongs prevents the plug only 5 amps, and would not be allowed
from being pulled from the receptacle. by today's electrical codes.

I High-voltage Receptacles
H igh-voltage receptacles provide curre nt to large
appliances like c lothes dryers , ranges , water
heaters, and air conditioners. The s lot configuration of
Grounding wire
a high-voltage receptacle (page 448 ) will not accept a

plug rated for 120 volts. Red hot wire Ｍ｟ｾ｜ＮＺ＠
A high-voltage receptacle can be wired in one

of two ways. I n a standard high-voltage receptac le,
voltage is brought to the receptacle with two hot White neutral wire
wires, each carrying a maximum of 120 volts. No
white neutral wire is necessary, but a ground ing wire
Black hot wire ＭｊｪＭＬｾ＠ ......j
should be attached to the receptacle and to the metal
receptacle box. Conduit can also act as a ground [Tom
the metal receptacle box back to the serv ice panel.
A clothes dryer or range also may require normal
current (a maximum of 120 vo lts) to run li ghts,
timers and c locks. If so, a white neutral wire wi ll be
attached to the receptacle. The app li ance itself will
split the in com in g current into a 120-volt c ircuit and a
240-volt c ircuit.
Repair or replace a high-voltage receptacle
using the techniques shown on pages 454 to 455.
A receptacle rated for 120/240 volts has two incoming hot
It is important to id entify and tag a ll wires on the wires, each carrying 120 volts, a white neutral wire, and a bare
existing receptacle so that the new receptacle will be copper grounding wire. Connections are made with setscrew
properly wired. terminals at the back of the receptacle.
Standard receptacle rated for 240 volts has two incoming Surface-mounted receptacle rated for 240 volts has a
hot wires and no neutral wire. A grounding wire is pigtailed to hard plastic box that can be installed on concrete or block
the receptacle and to the metal receptacle box. walls. Surface-mounted receptacles are often found in
basements and utility rooms.

I Childproof Receptacles & Other Accessories
C hil dproof your receptacles or adapt the m for
spec ial uses by add ing rece ptac le accesso ri es.
Before insta lli ng a n accesso ry, be sure to read t he
ma nufac turer's instru ctions.
Ho meow ners with small child re n shoul d add
in ex pe ns ive caps o r covers to guard aga in st acc idental
e lect ri c s hoc ks.
Plas ti c caps do not co ndu ct elec tri c ity a nd are
virtually imposs ibl e for s ma ll child re n to remove. A
receptacle cover attac hes direc tly to the rece ptac le
a nd fits over p lugs, preve nt in g the cords fro m
be ing re moved .
Tamper resistant outlets are another way to prevent

shocks. Thermoplastic shutters seal the slots of the outlet
unless the two prongs of a plug are inserted at the same time,
effectively keeping foreign objects out. Use plastic caps (inset)
to protect standard outlets.
Install more than two plugs Protect electronic equipment, such Recessed wall receptacle permits a
in a single duplex receptacle by as a home computer or stereo, with a plug-in clock to be hung flush against a
using a multi-outlet power strip. A surge protector. The surge protector wall surface.
multi-outlet strip should have a built-in prevents any damage to sensitive wiring
circuit breaker or fuse to protect or circuitry caused by sudden drops or
against overloads. surges in power

I Testing Receptacles for Power,
Grounding & Polarity
F or testing receptacles and other devices for power,

grounding, and pola rity, neo n circuit testers are
in expe nsi ve a nd easy to use. But they a re less se nsiti ve
th an auto-ranging multim eters. In so me cases, neo n Mu ltim eter

testers wo n't de tect the presence of lower voltage in Neon circuit tester
a circuit. This can lead yo u to believe that a circu it Plug-in tester
is shut off whe n it is not- a dangerous mi stake . The Screwdriver
small probes on a neo n c ircuit tes te r also forc e yo u to
get too close to li ve te rminals a nd wires. For a quick
check and confirmation , a neo n c ircu it tes ter (or a
plug-in tester) is adequate. But for th e most re liabl e
readings, buy and learn to use a multimeter.
The best multimeters a re auto-ranging models
with a digita l readout. Un li ke manu a l multimeters,
auto-ranging mode ls do not require you to preset the
voltage range to get an accurate reading. Unlike neon
testers, multi mete rs may be used for a host of additional
diagnostic functions , such as testing fuses, meas uring
batte lY vo ltage, testing internal wiring in app liances, and
checking light fixtures to determine if they're functional. Metal probes
I How to Use I How to Test Quickly

a Plug-in Tester for Power
Use a plug-in tester to test a three-slot receptacle. With the Use a neon circuit tester for quick testing to verify that
power on, insert the tester into the suspect outlet. The face of power is not flowing to a receptacle before removing the
the tester has three colored lights that will light up in different cover plate. Insert one probe in each slot of the receptacle. If
combinations, according to the outlet's problem. A reference the bulb does not glow, remove the cover plate to access the
chart is provided with tester, and many have a chart on the receptacle and the screw terminals. Confirm that power is not
tester itself. flowing by testing the terminals with a multimeter.

I How to Test a Receptacle for Power
2 3
Set the selector dial for Insert the test ends of the probe If the multimeter reads 0 or gives a
alternating-current voltage. Plug the into the receptacle slots. It does not very low reading (less than 1 or 2 volts),
black probe lead into the common make a difference which probe goes power is not present in the receptacle
jack on the multi meter (labeled COM). into which slot as long as they're in the and it is safe to remove the cover
Plug the red probe lead into the same receptacle. If power is present and plate and work on the fixture (although
V-labeled jack. flowing normally, you will see a voltage it's always a good idea to confirm
reading (usually between 115 and 125 your reading by touching the probes
volts) on the readout screen. directly to the screw terminals on
the receptacles).
I How to Test How to Test a Two-Slot Receptacle

for Hot Wires for Grounding
When a receptacle or switch is in Confirm that the receptacle has Place one probe in the long (neutral)
the middle of a circuit, it is difficult to tell power. Place one probe of a neon slot and the other on the coverplate
which wires are carrying current. Use tester or multimeter in the short (hot) screw If the tester shows current, the
a multi meter to check. With power off, slot and the other on the coverplate hot and neutral wires are reversed. If
remove the receptacle and separate the screw (screw must be unpainted). If the not, the box is ungrounded.
wires. Restore power. Touch one probe tester shows current, the receptacle is
to the bare ground or the grounded grounded. If the tester doesn't show
metal box and touch the other probe current, proceed to step 2.
to the end of each wire. The wire that
shows current on the meter is hot.

I Repairing & Replacing Receptacles
R eceptac les are easy to repair. Afte r shutting off
power to th e receptac le c irc uit , re move the
coverplate a nd inspec t th e rece ptac le for any obviou s
Wh e n insta llin g a new receptac le, a lways test
for grounding. Neve r in stall a three-slot receptacle
whe re no groundin g exists. In stead , insta ll a two-slot
probl e ms suc h as a loose or broke n co nn ection , or pol a rized or GFC ] rece ptac le.
wire e nd s that are dirty or ox idi zed. Re me mbe r that a
proble m at one recep tac le may affect oth er receptac les
in th e sa me c irc uit. If the cause of a fa ulty rece ptacle Tools & Materials ｾ＠
is not readil y appa re nt, tes t othe r rece ptac les in th e
c irc uit for power. C ircuit tester Fine sa ndpaper
W h en repl ac ing a receptacle, ch eck th e ampe rage Sc rewd rive r Antioxidant paste
rating of th e c ircuit at th e main se rvice pa nel, and Vac uum c lean e r Mas kin g ta pe
buy a replaceme nt receptacle with th e correc t (if needed) (if needed )
a mperage rating.
I How to Repair a Receptacle

2 3
Turn off power at the main service Remove the mounting screws that Confirm that the power to the
panel. Test the receptacle for power hold the receptacle to the box. Carefully receptacle is off (page 452), using a
with a neon circuit tester (page 452). pull the receptacle from the box. Take neon ci rcuit tester. If wi res are attached
Test both ends of a duplex receptacle. care not to touch any bare wires. to both sets of screw term inals, test
Remove the coverp late, using both sets. The tester sho uld not glow.
a screwdriver. If it does, you must turn off the correct
circuit at the service pane l.
454 • T HE COI\ IPLET E PH OTO GU ID E TO HOI\ IE HE PAIH

4 5
Tighten all connections, using a Check the box for dirt or dust and, Reinstall the receptacle, and turn on
screwdriver. Take care not to overtighten if necessary, clean it with a vacuum power at the main service panel. Test
and strip the screws. cleaner and narrow nozzle attachment. the receptacle for power with a neon
circuit tester. If the receptacle does not
work, check other receptacles in the
circuit before making a replacement.
I How to Replace a Receptacle

2
To replace a receptacle, repeat steps Disconnect all w ires and remove Replace the receptacle with one
1 to 3 on the opposite page. With the the receptacle. rated for the correct amperage and
power off, label each wire for its location voltage. Replace coverplate, and turn
on the receptacle screw terminals, using on power. Test receptacle with a neon
masking tape and a felt-tipped pen. circuit tester or multimeter.

I Installing GFCI Receptacles
T he ground-fault circuit-interrupter (GFC!)
receptacle protects aga inst electrical shock caused
by a faulty appliance, or a worn cord or plug. It senses
smal l changes in current flow and can shut off power C ircu it tester Wire connectors
in as littl e as Y..o of a second. Screwdriver Masking tape
GFCIs are now required in bathrooms, kitchens,
garages, crawl spaces, unfinished basements, and
outdoor receptacle locations. Consu lt your local codes
for any requirements regarding the installation of
G FCI receptacles. Most G FCIs use standard screw
terminal connections, but some have wire leads
and are attached with wire connectors. Because the
body of a GFCl receptacle is larger than a standard
receptacle, sma ll crowded electrical boxes may need
to be replaced with more spac ious boxes.
The GFC ] receptacle may be wired to protect on ly
itself (single location), or it can be wired to protect all
receptacles, switches, and li ght fixtures from the GFCI
"forward" to the end of the circu it (multiple locations ).
Because the GFC] is so sensitive, it is most effective
when wired to protect a single location. The more
receptacles anyone GFCI protects, the more susceptible
it is to "phantom tripping," shutting off power because of A GFCI wired for single-location protection (shown
tiny, normal fluctuations in current flow. Irom the back) has hot and neutral wires connected only
to the screw terminals marked LINE. A GFCI connected
lor single-location protection may be wired as either an
end-ol-run or middle-ol-run configuration.
A GFCI wired for multiple-location protection (shown

Irom the back) has one set 01 hot and neutral wires
connected to the LINE pair 01 screw terminals, and the other
set connected to the LOAD pair of screw terminals. A GFCI
receptacle connected for multiple-location protection may be
wired only as a middle-ol-run configuration.

I How to Install a GFCI for Single-location Protection
1 2 3
Shut off power to the receptacle Remove coverplate. Loosen mounting Disconnect all white neutral wires
at the main service panel. Test for screws, and gently pull receptacle from from the silver screw terminals of the
power with a neon circuit tester (page the box. Do not touch wires. Confirm old receptacle.
452). Be sure to check both halves of power is off with a circuit tester.
the receptacle.
4 5 6
1
•-...,..
Pigtail all the white neutral wires Disconnect all black hot wires from If a grounding wire is available,
together, and connect the pigtail to the the brass screw terminals of the old connect it to the green grounding
terminal marked WHITE LINE on the receptacle. Pigtail these wires together, screw terminal of the GFCI. Mount
GFCI (see photo on opposite page). and connect them to the terminal the GFCI in the receptacle box, and
marked HOT LINE on the GFCI. reattach the coverplate. Restore power,
and test the GFCI according to the
manufacturer's instructions.

I How to Install a GFCI for Multiple-location Protection
Use a map of your house circuits Turn off power to the correct circuit Remove the coverplate from the
to determine a location for your GFCI. at the main service panel. Test all the receptacle that will be replaced with the
Indicate all receptacles that will be receptacles in the circuit with a neon GFCI. Loosen the mounting screws and
protected by the GFCI installation. circuit tester to make sure the power is gently pull the receptacle from its box.
off. Always check both halves of each Take care not to touch any bare wires.
duplex receptacle. Confirm the power is off with a neon
circuit tester.
Disconnect all black hot wires. Carefully separate the hot When you have found the hot feed wire, turn off power
wires and position them so that the bare ends do not touch at the main service panel. Identify the feed wire by marking it
anything. Restore power to the circuit at the main service with masking tape.
panel. Determine which black wire is the "feed" wire by testing
for hot wires. The feed wire brings power to the receptacle
from the service panel. Use caution: This is a "live" wire test,
during which the power is turned on temporarily.

Disconnect the white neutral Disconnect the grounding wire from Connect the white feed wire to the
wires from the old receptacle. Identify the grounding screw terminal of the old terminal marked WHITE LINE on the
the white feed wire and label it with receptacle. Remove the old receptacle. GFCI. Connect the black feed wire to the
masking tape. The white feed wire will Connect the grounding wire to the terminal marked HOT LINE on the GFCI.
be the one that shares the same cable grounding screw terminal of the GFCI.
as the black feed wire.
11
Connect the other white neutral wire Connect the other black hot w ire carefully tuck all wires into the
to the terminal marked WHITE LOAD on to the terminal marked HOT LOAD on receptacle box. Mount the GFCI in the
the GFCI. the GFCI. box and attach the coverplate. Turn on
power to the circuit at the main service
panel. Test the GFCI according to the
manufacturer's instructions.

I Common Wall-switch Problems
n ave rage wa ll sw itc h is turned on an d off more
A th a n 1,000 times each yea r. Because sw itches
rec eive co nsta nt use, wire co nn ec tions ca n loose n and
switc h parts gradua ll y wea r out. If a sw itch no longe r
operates smoothl y, it mu st be repa ired or rep laced.
The methods for repa irin g or rep lac ing a switch
va ry sli ghtl y, dependin g on the switch type a nd its
location a long a n e lectr ica l circ uit. When working on
a switc h, use the photographs on pages 448 to 449 to
id e ntify yo ur switc h type a nd its wiring co nfiguration.
Individu al switch styles may valY from manufac turer to
ma nufac turer, but th e basic switch types are universal.
It is poss ibl e to replace most ordinary wa ll
switches with a spec ialty sw itch, like a tim e r sw itch
or a n e lectro ni c sw itc h. When installing a spec ial ty
switc h, make su re it is co mpat ibl e with the wiring
co nfi gurati on of th e switch box.
Hot wire
Co mm on Ca bl e Problems Typical wall switch has a movable metal arm that opens
(pages 433 to 435 ) and closes the electrical circuit When the switch is ON, the
C hecking Wire Co nnec ti ons arm completes the circuit and power flows between the screw
terminals and through the black hot wire to the light fixture.
(pages 435 to 436 ) When the switch is OFF, the arm lifts away to interrupt the
In spectin g Receptacles & Switc hes circuit, and no power flows. Switch problems can occur if the
(pages 44 2 to 44 3) screw terminals are not tight or if the metal arm inside the
switch wea rs out
Rotary snap switches are found in Push-button switches were widely Toggle switches were introduced
many installations completed between used from 1920 until about 1940. Many in the 1930s. This early design has a
1900 and 1920. Handle is twisted switches of this type are still in operation. switch mechanism that is mounted in a
clockwise to turn light on and off. The Reproductions of this switch type are ceramic housing sealed with a layer of
switch is enclosed in a ceramic housing. available for restoration projects. insulating paper.
460 • THE COI\ IPLETE PHOTO GU ID E TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

Problem Repair
Fuse burns out or circuit breaker trips when the switch 1. Tighten any loose wire connections on switch (pages 474 to 475 ).
is turned on. 2. Move lamps or plug-in appliances to other circuits to prevent overloads.
3. Test switch, and repla ce, if needed (pages 474 to 475 ).
4. Repair or replace faulty fi xture (pages 480 to 499) or faulty appliance.
light fixture or permanently installed appliance 1. Replace burned-out lightbulb.
does not work. 2. Check for blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker to make sure circuit is operating (page 425 ).
3. Check for loose wire connections on switch (pages 474 to 475 ).
5. Repair or replace light fixture (pages 480 to 499 ) or appliance.
light fixture flickers. 1. Tighten lightbulb in the socket.
2. Check for loose wire connections on switch (pages 474 to 475 ).
3. Repair or replace light fixture or switch (pages 480 to 499 ).
Switch buzzes or is worm to the touch. 1. Check for loose wire connections on switch (pages 474 to 475 ).
3. Move lamps or appliances to other circuits to reduce demand.
Switch lever does not stay in position. Replace worn-out switch (pages 474 to 475 ).
Toggle switches were improved Mercury switches beca me com mon in Electronic motion-sensor switch
during the 1950s, and are now the most the ea rly 1960s. They conduct electrical has an infrared eye that senses
com mon ly used type. Th is switch type cu rrent by means of a sea led via l of movement and automatically turns on
was the first to use a sealed plastic mercury. Although more expensive t han lights when a pe rso n ente rs a room .
housing that protects the inner switch other types, mercury switches are dur- Moti on-sensor switches can provide
mechanism from dust and moisture. able: some are guaranteed for 50 yea rs. added security against intruders.

I Wall-switch Basics
W al l switches are avai lab le in three general types.
To repair or replace a switch, it is important to
identify its type.
Most switches include a ground ing sc rew
terminal, whi ch is identified by its green color.
When replacing a sw itch, choose a new switc h
Sin gle-po le switches are used to control a set of that has the same number of screw terminals as
li ghts from one location. Three-way sw itches al-e used the old one. The location of the screws on the
to contro l a set of lights from two different locations switch body varies, depending on the manufacturer,
and are always installed in pairs. Four-way switches are but these differences wi ll not affect the
used in combinatio n with a pair of three-way switches sw itch operation.
to control a set of li ghts from three or more locations. Whenever possible, connect sw itc hes using the
Identify switch types by counting th e screw screw terminals rather than push-in fittings. Some
terminals_ Single-pole switches have two screw spec ialty switches (pages 468 to 469 ) have wire leads
terminals, three-way switches have three screw in stead of screw terminals. They are connected to
terminals, and four-way switches h ave four. c irc uit wires with wire con nectors.
A wall switch is connected to circuit

Underwriters Note: Position of the screw wires with screw terminals or with push-in
Laboratories (UL) terminals on switch may vary,
approved depending on manufacturer fittings on the back of the switch. A switch
may have a stamped strip gauge that
indicates how much insulation must be
stripped from the circuit wires to make
the connections.
The switch body is attached to a
Push-in metal mounting strap that allows it to
fittings be mounted in an electrical box. Several
rating stamps are found on the strap and
screw on the back of the switch. The abbreviation
UL or UNO. LAB. INC. LIST means that the
Amperage switch meets the safety standards of the
& voltage
Underwriters Laboratories. Switches also
ratings
are stamped with maximum voltage and
amperage ratings. Standard wall switches
are rated 15A, 120V. Voltage ratings of
Screw 110,120, and 125 are considered to be
terminals identical for purposes of identification.
For standard wall switch
installations, choose a switch that has a
wire gauge rating of #12 or #14. For wire
systems with solid-core copper wiring,
Wire compatibilty
ratings use only switches marked COPPER or
CU. For aluminum wiring (page 432), use
Wire release only switches marked CO/ALR. Switches
opening for marked AUCU can no longer be used with
push-in aluminum wiring, according to the National
fittings Electrical Code.
Mounting
screw
Mounting
front strap back

I Single-pole Wall Switches
single- pole switch is th e most co mm on type of
A wall sw itc h. It has ON-OFF markin gs o n t he
switc h lever a nd is used to co ntrol a set of li ghts,
a n applia nce, or a receptac le fro m a s ingle loca tion.
A sin gle- pole switch has two screw te rmin als and a
gro un din g sc rew. \ l\The n in sta llin g a single- pole switc h,
c hec k to ma ke sure the ON ma rking shows whe n the
switc h lever is in th e up pos iti on.
In a correctly wired single-pole switch, a hot
circuit wire is attached to each sc rew te rmin al.
Howeve r, the color a nd num be r of wires inside the
sw itc h box will va ,y, de pe nd ing on the locatio n of the
switc h along th e e lec trical c irc uit.
If two cables e nte r the box, th e n th e sw itch lies in
the mi ddle of the c irc ui t. In t hi s in sta ll ation, both of
th e hot wires attac hed to the sw itc h are bl ack.
If only one cable e nters the box, the n th e switch
lies at the e nd of th e circ ui t. In thi s install ati on
(some tim es called a switch loop), one of the hot wires
is bl ack, but th e other hot wire usually is white. A white
hot wire sometim es is coded with black tape or pain t.
I Typical Single-pole Switch Installations
Neutral wires
wire
ｾ＠
Two cables enter the box when a switch is located in One cable enters the box when a switch is located at the
the middle of a circuit. Each cable has a white and a black end of a circuit. The cable has a white and a black insulated
insulated wire, plus a bare copper grounding wire. The black wire, plus a bare copper grounding wire. In this installation,
wires are hot and are connected to the screw terminals on the both of the insulated wires are hot. The white wire may be
switch . The white wires are neutral and are joined together with labeled with black tape or paint to identify it as a hot wire. The
a wire connector. Grounding wires are pigtailed to the switch. grounding wire is connected to the switch grounding screw

I Three-way Wall Switches
T hree-way switches have three screw terminals
and do not have ON-OFF markings. Three-way
switches are always insta ll ed in pairs and are used to
contro l a set of li ghts from two locations.
One of the screw terminals on a three-way switch
is darker than the others. This screw is the co mmon
screw terminal. T he position of the common screw
terminal on the switch body may vary, depending on
the manufacturer. Before disconnecting a three-way
switch, always label the wire that is connected to the
common screw terminal. It must be reconnected to
the common sc rew terminal on the new switch.
T he two lighter-colored screw terminals on
a three-way switch are called the traveler screw
terminals. The traveler terminals are in tercha ngeab le,
so there is no need to labe l the wires attac hed to them.
Because three-way switches are install ed in
pairs, it sometim es is difficult to determine wh ich of
the switches is causing a problem. The switch that
receives greater use is more likely to fail, but you may
need to inspect both switches to find the source of
the problem.
I Typical Three-way Switch Installations

Traveler screw
Grounding terminals
Three-
wire cable Common screw
Common sc],eIlJ' terminal wire
terminal
Two cables enter the box if the switch lies in the middle One cable enters the box if the switch lies at the end of
of a circuit. One cable has two wires, plus a bare copper the circuit. The cable has a black wire, red wire, and white
grounding wire; the other cable has three wires, plus a ground. wire, plus a bare copper grounding wire. The black wire
The black wire from the two-wire cable is connected to the must be connected to the common screw terminal, which is
dark, common screw terminal. The red and black wires from darker than the other two screw terminals. The white and red
the three-wire cable are connected to the traveler screw wires are connected to the two traveler screw terminals. The
terminals. The white neutral wires are joined together with a white wire is taped to indicate that it is hot. The bare copper
wire connector, and the grounding wires are pigtailed to the grounding wire is connected to the grounded metal box.
grounded metal box.

I Four-way Wall Switches
F our-way switc hes have four sc rew termin als and do
not have ON-OFF markings. Four-way switc hes
a re always insta ll ed betwee n a pair of three-way
sw itches. This switch comb ination makes it poss ibl e
to control a set of lights from three or more locations.
Four-way sw itches a re common in homes where
la rge rooms contain multipl e living a reas, such as a
kitchen opening into a dining room. Switch problems
in a four-way install ation can be ca used by loose
connections or worn parts in a four-way switch or in
one of the three-way switches (fac ing page ).
Jn a typ ica l installat ion, there will be a pair of
three-way cables that e nter the box for the four- way
switc h. W ith most switches, the wh ite and red wires
from one cab le sho ul d be attached to the bottom or
top pair of screw termina ls, a nd the white and red
wires from th e other cable shou ld be attached to th e
remaining pair of screw terminal s. However, not all
sw itches are co nfigured the sa me way, and wi ring
configurations in the box may vary, so always study the
wirin g diagt'a m that co mes with the sw itch.
I Typical Four-way Switch Installation

Grounding
wires
Four wires are connected to a four-way switch . The red Switch variation : Some four-way switches have a wiring
and white wires from one cable are attached to the top pair of guide stamped on the back to help simplify installation. For the
screw terminals, while the red and white wires from the other switch shown above, one pair of color-matched circuit wires
cable are attached to the bottom screw terminals. will be connected to the screw terminals marked LINE 1, while
the other pair of wires will be attached to the screw terminals
marked LINE 2.

I Double Switches
doubl e sw itch h as two sw itch levers in a single
A hou sin g. It is used to co ntrol two li ght fi xtures or
app li ances from the sa me switc h box.
In mo st install ati ons, both h a lves of th e switch are
powered by the sa me circuit. In these s ingle-circ uit
install ations, three wires a re co nn ected to the do ubl e
sw itc h. O ne wi re, ca ll ed the "feed" wire, supp li es
power to both halves of the switch. Th e oth er wires
ca rry power out to the individual li ght fi xtures
or ap plia nces.
In ra re in sta ll ation s, eac h half of the sw itc h Single-circuit wiring: Three black wires are attached to the
is powered by a sepa rate c irc uit. Jn these switch. The black feed wire bringing power into the box is
sepa rate-c irc uit install ati ons, four wires are connected to the side of the switch that has a connecting tab.
The wires carrying power out to the light fixtures or appliances
co nn ected to th e sw itch, and the me tal co nn ectin g are connected to the side of the switch that does not have
tab joinin g two of the sc rew te rmin a ls is re moved a connecting tab. The white neutral wires are connected
(photo be low). together with a wire connector.
Separate-circuit wiring: Four black wires are attached to the switch. Feed wires Remove the connecting tab on
from the power source are attached to the side of switch that has a connecting tab. a double switch when wired in a
and the connecting tab is removed (photo. right). Wires carrying power from the separate-circuit installation. The tab can
switch to light fixtures or appliances are connected to the side of the switch that be removed with needlenose pliers or
does not have a connecting tab. White neutral wires are connected together with a a screwdriver.
wi re con nector.

I Pilot-light Switches
pi lot- li ght switch has a bu ilt-in bulb that glows
A whe n power flows through the sw itc h to a light
Rxture o r app li a nce. Pi lot-light switc hes often a re
in sta ll ed for co nve ni e nc e if a light Rxture or appli a nce
ca nn ot be seen from the sw itch locatio n. Basement
li ghts, garage lights, and attic ex haus t fans freq ue ntl y
are controll ed by pilot-light sw itc hes.
A pi lot- li ght sw itch requires a neutral w ire
connec ti on. A sw itch box that contains a si ngle
two-wire cable has o nly hot w ires and cannot be Rtted
wi th a pi lot- li ght switc h .
Pilot-light switch wiring: Three wires are connected to the

switch. One black wire is the feed wire that brings power into
the box. It is connected to the brass screw terminal on the
side of the switch that does not have a connecting tab. The
white neutral wires are pigtailed to the silver screw terminal.
Black wire carrying power out to light fixture or appliance is
connected to screw termina l on side of the switch that has a
connecting tab.
I Switch/receptacles
A switc h/ receptac le co mb ines a gro unded receptac le
with a s ingle-pole wa ll switc h . In a room that does not
have e no ugh wall receptac les, e lect ri ca l service ca n
be improved by repl ac in g a s ingle-po le sw itc h with a
sw itc h/ receptac Ie.
A sw itc h/receptacle requires a neutra l wire
con nect io n. A sw itch box that contains a single
two-wire cable has on ly hot w ires an d ca nn ot be Rtted
with a sw itch/receptacle.
A switch/ receptacle can be insta lled in one
of two ways. In the most com mon insta ll at ions,
the receptacle is hot eve n when the sw itch is off
(photo, I-ight)_
I n rare in sta ll atio ns, a sw itc h/recep tac le is wired
so the receptacle is hot only whe n th e sw itc h is
on. In thi s in stallation , th e hot wires a re reversed,
so that the feed w il-e is attached to th e brass sc rew
Switch/receptacle wiring: Three wires are connected to the
terminal on th e side of th e switc h that does not have a switch/receptacle. One of the hot wires is the feed wire that
connecting tab. brings power into the box. It is connected to the side of the
switch that has a connecting tab. The other hot wire carries
power out to the light fixture or appliance. It is connected to
the brass screw termina l on the side that does not have a
connecting tab. The white neutral wire is pigtailed to the silver
screw terminal. The grounding wires must be pigtailed to the
green grounding screw on the switch/receptacle and to the
grounded metal box.
Plumhing & \l\liring • 467

I Specialty Switches
Y o ur ho use may have severa l types of spec ia lty
switches . Dimmer switches (pages 4 78 to 4 79 )
are used fregue ntl y to co ntrol li ght inte nsity in dining
c irc uit wires with wire co nn ecto rs. So me moto r-dri ve n
tim e r switch es reguire a ne utral wire connecti on and
ca nn ot be install ed in switch boxes th at h ave only one
a nd recreati on areas . Time r switc hes a nd time-delay cabl e with two hot wires .
switc hes (be low) are used to co ntrol light fixtures If a spec ia lty sw itc h is not ope rating co rrectl y, yo u
a nd exh aust fans automatically. Elec tro ni c sw itch es may be able to test it with a continuity tester. T im e r
(fac ing page) provide added co nve ni e nce and h ome switc hes a nd tim e-de lay switches ca n be tes ted for
sec uri ty, a nd are easy to insta ll. E lec troni c sw itc hes con tinuity, but dimm e r sw itc hes ca nn ot be tested.
a re durabl e, a nd th ey ra re ly need repa ir. \l\Iith e lec troni c sw itc hes, th e ma nu a l switc h ca n
Mos t spec ialty switch es have preattached wire be tested for co ntinui ty, but th e a utomati c fea tures
lea ds instea d of sc rew te rminals a nd are co nn ec ted to ca nn ot be tested.
I Timer Switches
T im e r switc hes have a n e lect ri ca ll y powered
co ntrol dial th at ca n be set to turn li ghts on a nd off
automati cally on ce each day. T hey are commo nl y used
to control outdoo r I ight fi xtures.
T ime r switc hes have three prea ttac hed wire leads.
Th e bl ack wire lea d is co nn ec ted to th e h ot feed wire
th at brings power into th e box, and the red lea d is
connec ted to the wire ca rrying powe r out to th e li ght
fi xture. T he re ma ining wire lead is the ne utra l lead.
It mu st be co nn ec ted to any ne utral c irc uit wires . A
switc h box th at co nta in s onl y one ca bl e has no ne utra l
wires, so it ca nn ot be fitted with a tim e r switch.
Afte r a powe r fa ilure, th e dial on a time r switch
must be rese t to the proper tim e.
I Time-delay Switches
A tim e-de lay switc h has a spring-driven di al th at is
wound by hand. "Ille dial can be set to turn off a light
fixture after a delay ranging from 1 to 60 minutes.
Time-delay switc hes ofte n are used for exhaust fa ns,
bathroom ve nt Fa ns, and heat lamps.
T he bl ac k wire leads on the switc h are co nn ected
to th e h ot c irc uit wires. If the switch box contains
white ne utra l wires, th ese are conn ec ted togeth e r with
a wire co nn ec tor. Th e ba re coppe r groundin g wires a re
pi gta il ed to the ground ed me ta l box.
A tim e-delay switch needs no ne utral wire
co nn ec tion , so it ca n be fitted in a switch box th at
con tain s e it he r one or two cables .

I Automatic Switches
An auto mati c switch uses a narrow infrared beam to
detect movement. ' '''hen a hand passes wit hin a few
in c hes o f the beam, an e lectron ic signa l turns the
switc h o n or off. Some automatic sw itc hes have a
manua l dimm in g feature.
Automat ic switc hes can be insta ll ed wherever
a standa rd s in gle-pole switc h is used. Auto matic
sw itches are especially co nvenient for chi ldren and
persons with d isabiliti es.
Autom at ic switches require no neutral wire
connections. For th is reason, an automatic switch
can be insta ll ed in a switc h box containing e ith er
one or two cab les. The wi re leads on the sw itch are
connected to hot ci rc uit wires with wi re co nn ectors.
I Motion-sensor Security Switches

A motion-sensor sw itch uses a wide-angle infrared
beam to detect movement over a large area and turns
on a light fixture au tom atica ll y. A time-delay feature
turn s off lights after move ment stops.
Most motion-sensor switches have an over ride
feature that allows the switc h to be operated
manua ll y. Better switches include an adjustab le
sens iti vity control and a var iab le time-delay
shutoff co ntrol.
Mot ion-sensor sw itch es req uire no neutra l wire
connect ions. They can be installed in switc h boxes
conta in ing e ither one or two cables. The w ire leads on
the sw itch are connected to hot circuit w ires.
I Programmable Switches
Programma bl e switches have digita l co ntrols and ca n
provide four on-off cycles eac h day. They frequently
are used to prov ide sec uri ty whe n a homeowner is
absent. Law enfo l'Cement experts say that programmed
light ing is a proven crime deterrent. For best protection,
programmable switches should be set to a random
on-off pattern.
Programmab le sw itches requ ire no neut ra l wire
connections. They can be insta lled in switc h boxes
conta inin g ei the r one or two cab les. The wire lead s
on the sw itch are co nn ected to hot circu it wires with
wire con nec tors.
Plumbing & H/iril'lg • 469

I Testing Switches for Continuity
SWitch that does not work properly may have
A worn or broken internal parts. Test for internal
wear with a battery-operated continuity tester. The
continuity tester detects any break in the metal
pathway in side the sw itch. Replace the switch if the
continuity tester shows the switch to be faulty.
Never use a continuity tester on wires that might
carry live current. Always shut off the power and
disconnect the switch before testing for continuity.
Some specialty switches, like dimmers, cannot
be tested for continuity. Electron ic switches can be
tested for manual operation using a continuity tester,
but the automatic operation of these switches cannot
be tested.
Continuity tester
How to Test a Single-pole

Wall Switch
Continuity tester uses battery-generated current to test the

metal pathways running through switches and other electrical Attach clip of tester to one of the screw terminals. Touch
fixtures. Always "test" the tester before use. Touch the tester the tester probe to the other screw terminal. Flip switch lever
clip to the metal probe. The tester should glow. If not, then the from ON to OFF. If switch is good, tester glows when lever is
battery or lightbulb is dead and must be replaced ON, but not when OFF.

I How to Test a Three-way Wall Switch
Attach tester clip to the dark common screw terminal. Touch Touch probe to the other traveler screw terminal, and
the tester probe to one of the traveler screw terminals, and flip flip the switch lever back and forth. If switch is good, the tester
switch lever back and forth. If switch is good, the tester should will glow only when the switch lever is in the position opposite
glow when the lever is in one position, but not both . from the positive test in step 1.
I How to Test a Four-way Wall Switch
Test switch by touching probe and clip of continuity If switch is good, test wi ll show a total of four continuous
tester to each pair of screw terminals (A-B, C-D, A-D, B-C, A-C, pathways between screw terminals-two pathways for
B-D) The test should show continuous pathways between each lever position . If not, then switch is faulty and must
two different pairs of screw terminals. Flip lever to opposite be replaced. (The arrangement of the pathways may differ,
position, and repeat test. Test should show continuous depending on the switch manufacturer. The photo above
pathways between two different pairs of screw terminals. shows the three possible pathway arrangements.)

I How to Test a Pilot-light Switch
1
Test pilot light by flipping the switch lever to the ON position. Test the switch by disconnecting the unit. With the switch
Check to see if the light fixture or appliance is working. If the lever in the ON position, attach the tester clip to the top screw
pilot light does not glow even though the switch operates the terminal on one side of the switch. Touch tester probe to top
light fixture or appliance, then the pilot light is defective and screw terminal on opposite side of the switch. If switch is
the unit must be replaced. good, tester will glow when switch is ON, but not when OFF.
I How to Test a Timer Switch
Attach the tester clip to the red wire lead on the timer Rotate the dial clockwise until the OFF tab passes the
switch, and touch the tester probe to the black hot lead. Rotate arrow marker. Tester should not glow. If it does, the switch is
the timer dial clockwise until the ON tab passes the arrow faulty and must be replaced .
marker. Tester should glow. If it does not, the switch is faulty
and must be replaced.

I How to Test I How to Test a I How to Test a
Switch/receptacle Double Switch Time-delay Switch
Attach tester clip to one of the Test each half of switch by attaching Attach tester clip to one of the wire
top screw terminals. Touch the tester the tester cl ip to one screw terminal leads, and touch the tester probe
probe to the top screw terminal on and touching the probe to the opposite to the other lead . Set the timer for
the opposite side. Flip the switch lever side. Flip switch lever from ON to a few minutes. If switch is working
from ON to OFF position. If the switch OFF position. If switch is good, tester correctly, the tester will glow until the
is working correctly, the tester will glow glows when the switch lever is ON, but time expires.
when the switch lever is ON, but not not when OFF. Repeat test with the
when OFF. remaining pair of screw terminals. If
either half tests faulty, replace the unit.
I How to Test Manual Operation of Electronic Switches
--- - --
--.:=.. --
. --
-
Automatic switch: Attach the tester programmable switch: Attach the Motion-sensor switch: Attach the
clip to a black wire lead, and touch the tester cl ip to a wire lead, and touch tester clip to a wire lead, and touch
tester probe to the other black lead. Flip the tester probe to the other lead. Flip the tester probe to the other lead. Flip
the manual switch lever from ON to OFF the manual switch lever from ON to the manual switch lever from ON to
position. If switch is working correctly, OFF position If the switch is working OFF position If the switch is working
tester will glow when the switch lever is correctly, the tester will glow when the correctly, the tester will glow when the
ON, but not when OFF. switch lever is ON, but not when OFF. switch lever is ON, but not when OFF.

I Fixing & Replacing Wall Switches
M OSt switc h proble ms a re ca used by loose wire
connec ti ons. If a fu se blows or a c irc uit breake r
trip s whe n a sw itch is turn ed on, a loose wire may be
touc hing th e metal box. Loo se wires also ca n ca use Sc rewdri ver Antioxid ant paste
switc hes to ove rhea t or bu zz. C ircuit tester (for aluminum
Switches so me tim es fa il beca use intern al pa rts C ontinuity tes ter wirin g)
wear out. To ch ec k for wear, th e switch mu st be C ombination tool M as kin g tape
re moved e ntire ly a nd tes ted for continui ty (pages 4 70 Fin e sa ndpaper
to 4 7 1). rf th e continui ty tes t shows the sw itc h is
faul ty, repl ace it.
I How to Fix or Replace a Single-pole Wall Switch

Turn off the power to the switch at
the main service panel, then remove the
switc h coverplate.
Remove the mounting screws holding

the switch to the electrical box. Holding
the mounting straps carefu lly, pu ll the
switch from the box. Be carefu l not to
touch any bare wires or screw te rminals
until the switch has been tested for power.

Test for power by touching one Disconnect the circuit wires and If wires are broken or nicked.
probe of the neon circuit tester to the remove the switch. Test the switch for clip off damaged portion, using a
grounded metal box or to the bare continuity, and buy a replacement if the combination tool. Strip wires so there
copper grounding wire, and touching switch is faulty. If circuit wires are too is about %" of bare wire at the end of
other probe to each screw terminal. short, lengthen them by adding pigtail each wire.
Tester should not glow. If it does, there wires (page 438).
is still power entering the box. Return to
service panel, and turn off correct circuit
Clean the bare copper wires with Connect the wires to the screw Remount the switch. carefully
fine sandpaper if they appear darkened terminals on the switch . Tighten the tucking the wires inside the box.
or dirty If wires are aluminum, apply screws firmly, but do not overtighten. Reattach the switch coverplate, and turn
an antioxidant paste before connecting Overtightening may strip the on the power to the switch at the main
the wires. screw threads. service panel.

I How to Fix or Replace a Three-way Wall Switch
Turn off the power to the switch at the main service Test for power by touching one probe of the neon circuit
panel, then remove the switch coverplate and mounting tester to the grounded metal box or to the bare copper
screws. Holding the mounting strap carefully, pull the switch grounding wire, and touching the other probe to each screw
from the box. Be careful not to touch the bare wires or screw terminal. Tester should not glow. If it does, there is still power
terminals until they have been tested for power. entering the box. Return to the service panel, and turn off the
correct ci rcu it.
Locate dark common screw Connect the common wire to the Connect the remaining two circuit
terminal, and use masking tape to dark common screw terminal on the wires to the screw terminals. These
label the "common" wire attached to it. switch . On most three-way switches the wires are interchangeable and can be
Disconnect wires and remove switch. common screw terminal is black. Or it connected to either screw terminal.
Test switch for continuity (pages 470 to may be labeled with the word COMMON Carefully tuck the wires into the box.
471). If it tests faulty, buy a replacement. stamped on the back of the switch. Remount the switch, and attach the
Inspect wires for nicks and scratches. If the switch has a grounding screw, coverplate. Turn on the power at the
If necessary, clip damaged wires and connect it to the circuit grounding wires main service panel.
strip them. with a pigtail.

I How to Fix or Replace a Four-way Wall Switch
Turn off the power to the switch at the main service panel, Test for power by touching one probe of the neon circuit
then remove the switch coverplate and mounting screws. tester to the grounded metal box or bare copper grounding
Holding the mounting strap carefully, pull the switch from the wire, and touching the other probe to each of the screw
box. Be careful not to touch any bare wires or screw terminals terminals. Tester should not glow. If it does, there is still power
until they have been tested for power. entering the box. Return to the service panel, and turn off the
correct circuit.
Disconnect the wires and inspect Connect two wires from one Attach remaining wires to the
them for nicks and scratches. If incoming cable to the top set of other set of screw terminals. Pigtail
necessary, clip damaged wires and strip screw terminals. the grounding wires to the grounding
them. Test the switch for continuity screw. Carefully tuck the wires inside
(pages 471 to 472). BUy a replacement if the switch box, then remount the switch
the switch tests faulty. and coverplate. Turn on power at main
service panel.

I Installing Dimmer Switches
dimmer switch makes it possible to valY the
A brightness of a light fixture. Dimmers are
often insta ll ed in dining rooms, recreation areas,
or bedrooms.
Any standard s ingl e-po le sw itch can be replaced
with a dimmer, as long as the switch box is of
adequate size. Dimmer switches have larger bodies
than standard switches. They also generate a small
amount of heat that must dissipate. For these reasons,
dimmers should not be install ed in undersized
electrical boxes or in boxes that are crowded with
circuit wires. Always follow the manufacturer's
specifications for installation.
In li ghtin g configurat ion s that use three-way
sw it ches (page 462) , replace the standard
swit ches with specia l three-way dimmers. If
rep lacin g both th e switches with dimmers , buy a
packaged pair of three-way dimmers designed to
work together.
Dimmer sw itc hes are available in severa l styles
(photo, left). All types have wire leads instead of
screw terminals, and they are connected to c ircuit
wires using wire co nn ectors. Some types have a
green grounding lead that shou ld be connected
to the gro unded metal box or to the bare copper
grounding wires.
Screwdriver
C irc uit tester
Need lenose pliers
\"'ire connectors
Masking tape

I How to Install a Dimmer Switch
Turn off power to switch at the Test for power by touching one If replacing an old dimmer, test
main service panel, then remove the probe of neon circuit tester to the for power by touching one probe of
coverplate and mounting screws. grounded metal box or to the bare circuit tester to the grounded metal box
Holding the mounting straps carefully, copper grounding wires, and touching or bare copper grounding wires, and
pull switch from the box. Be careful not other probe to each screw terminal. inserting the other probe into each wire
to touch bare wires or screw terminals Tester should not glow. If it does, there connector. Tester should not glow. If it
until they have been tested for power. is still power entering the box. Return does, there is still power entering the
to the service panel and turn off the box. Return to the service panel, and
correct circuit. turn off the correct circuit.
Wi re
leads
Disconnect the circuit wires and Connect the wire leads on the Three-way dimmer has an additional
remove the switch. Straighten the circuit dimmer switch to the circuit wires, using wire lead. This "common" lead is
wires, and clip the ends, leaving about wire connectors. The switch leads are connected to the common circuit wire.
'j," of the bare wire end exposed. interchangeable and can be attached to When replacing a standard three-way
either of the two circuit wires. switch with a dimmer, the common circuit
wire is attached to the darkest screw
terminal on the old switch.

I Repairing & Replacing Incandescent
Light Fixtures
ncandescent light fixtures are attach ed permanently
I to ce ilin gs or wa ll s. They in clude wall-hung sconces,
ce iling-hung globe fixtures , recessed light fixtmes, and
Electrical
chandel iers. Most in candescent light fixtures are easy box Metal
to repair, using basic tools and inexpensive parts. braces
If a li ght fixture fa il s, always make sure the
li ghtbu lb is screwed in tightly and is not burned out.
A faulty li ghtbu lb is the most common cause of li ght
fixture fa ilure. If th e light fixture is contro ll ed by a
wall switch, also check the switch as a possible so urce
of problems.
Light fixtures can fail because the sockets or Mounting
built-in switches wear out. Some fixtures have sockets strap
and switches that can be removed fO l' minor repairs.
These parts are held to th e base of the fixture with screw
1
mounting screws or clips. Other fixtures have sockets
and switches that are joined permanently to the base.
If th is type of fixture fa il s, purchase and insta ll a new
light fixture. screws
Damage to li ght fixtures often occurs because
homeowners insta ll lightbulbs with wattage ratings Fixture
base
that are too high. Prevent overheating and li ght fixture
failures by using on ly lightbulbs th at match the
wattage ratings printed on the fixtures.
Techniques for repairing Auorescent li ghts are J
different from those for incandescent li ghts. Refer to Brass
screw
pages 494 to 497 to repair or replace a fluorescent terminal
Socket
light fixture. (cutaway)
___ Shade
Circuit tester Combination tool

Screwdriver Replacement parts,
Continuity tester as needed
In a typical incandescent light fixture, a black hot wire

is connected to a brass screw terminal on the socket. Power
flows to a small tab at the bottom of the metal socket and
through a metal filament inside the bulb. The power heats the
filament and causes it to glow. The current then flows through
the threaded portion of the socket and through the white
neutral wire back to the main service panel.

Before 1959, incandescent light fixtures
(shown cut away) often were mounted
directly to an electrical box or to plaster
lath. Electrical codes now require that
fixtures be attached to mounting straps
that are anchored to the electrical
boxes (page 484). If you have a light
fixture attached to plaster lath, install an
approved electrical box with a mounting
strap to support the fixture.
Problem Repair
Wall- or (eiling-maunted fixture fli(kers or does not light. 1. Check for faulty lightbulb.
2. Check wall switch, and repair or repla(e, if needed (pages 474 to 477).
3. Check for loose wire (onne(tions in ele(tri(al box.
4. Test socket, and repla(e, if needed (pages 482 to 483 ).
5. Repla(e light fixture (page 484 ).
Built-in switch on fixture does not work. 1. Check for faulty lightbulb.
2. Check for loose wire (onne(tions on switch.
3. Replo(e switch (pages 474 to 477) .
4. Repla(e light fixture (page 484 ).
Chandelier fli(kers or does not light. 1. Check for faulty lightbulb.
3. Check for loose wire (onne(tions in ele(tricol box.
4. Test sockets and fixture wires, and repla(e, if needed (pages 482 to 483 ).
Re(essed fixture flickers or does not light. 1. Check for faulty lightbulb.
3. Check for loose wire (onne(tions in ele(tricol box.
4. Test fixture, and repla(e, if needed (page 484 ).

I How to Remove a Light Fixture & Test a Socket
1
Grounding
screw
--
Turn off the power to the light fixture at the main service Test for power by touching one probe of a neon circuit tester
panel. Remove the lightbulb and any shade or globe, then to green grounding screw, then inserting other probe into each
remove the mounting screws holding the fixture base to the wire connector. Tester should not glow. If it does, there is still
electrical box or mounting strap. Carefully pull the fixture base power entering box. Return to the service panel, and turn off
away from box. power to correct circuit.
Disconnect the light fixture base by loosening the Adjust the metal tab at the bottom of the fixture socket by
screw terminals. If fixture has wire leads instead of screw prying it up slightly with a small screwdriver. This adjustment
terminals, remove the light fixture base by unscrewing the will improve the contact between the socket and the lightbulb.
wi re con nectors.
Test the socket (shown cutaway) by attaching the clip of a Attach tester clip to neutral screw terminal (or white wire
continuity tester to the hot screw terminal (or black wire lead) lead), and touch probe to threaded portion of socket. Tester
and touching probe of tester to metal tab in bottom of socket. should glow. If not, socket is faulty and must be replaced If
Tester should glow. If not, socket is faulty and must be replaced. socket is permanently attached, replace the fixture (page 484).

I How to Replace a Socket
Remove light fixture (steps 1 to 3, page 482). Remove the Purchase an identical replacement socket. Connect white
socket from the fixture. Socket may be held by a screw, clip, or wire to silver screw terminal on socket, and connect black
retaining ring. Disconnect wires attached to the socket. wire to brass screw terminal. Attach socket to fixture base, and
reinstall fixture.
I How to Test & Replace a Built-in Light Switch
Remove light fixture (steps 1 to 3, page 482). Unscrew the Label the wires connected to the switch leads.
retaining ring holding the switch . Disconnect the switch leads and remove switch.
Test switch by attaching cl ip of continuity tester to one of If the switch is faulty, purchase and install an exact
the switch leads and holding tester probe to the other lead. duplicate switch. Remount the light fixture, and turn on the
Operate switch control. If switch is good, tester will glow when power at the main service panel.
switch is in one position, but not both.

I How to Replace an Incandescent Light Fixture
Turn off the power, and remove the old light fixture, Attach a mounting strap to the electrical box, if box
following the directions for standard light fixtures (page 482, does not already have one. The mounting strap. included with
steps 1 to 3) or chandeliers (pages 488 to 489, steps 1 to 4). the new light fixture. has a preinstalled grounding screw.
Mounting
strap
Connect the circuit wires to the base of the new fixture, Attach the light fixture base to the mounting strap, using
using wire connectors. Connect the white wire lead to the the mounting screws. Attach the globe, and install a lightbulb
white circuit wire. and the black wire lead to the black circuit with a wattage rating that is the same as or lower than the
wire. Pigtail the bare copper grounding wire to the grounding rating indicated on the fixture. Turn on the power at the main
screw on the mounting strap. service panel.

I Repairing & Replacing Recessed Light Fixtures
M OSt proble ms with recessed light fi xtures occ ur
because h ea t builds up inside th e me tal cani ste r
a nd melts the insulation on th e socket wires. On some
recessed li ght fi xtures, soc kets with da maged wires
can be re moved a nd repl aced. Howeve r, mo st newe r
fixtures h ave sockets th at cann ot be re moved. \Nith
thi s type , you will need to buy a new fixture if th e
soc ket wires are da maged.
\Nhe n bu ying a new recessed light fi xture, c hoose
a repl ace me nt th at matches th e old fixture . Install
th e new fi xture in th e metal mounting fra me th at is
already in place.
Unless the fixture is rated Ie (insul ated covered ),
make sure buildin g insul ation is at least 3" away from
the cani ste r to di ssipate hea t.
I How to Remove & Test a Recessed Light Fixture

2
Reflector
Turn off the power to the light fixtu re Loosen the screws or clips holding Remove the coverplate on the wire
at the main service panel. Remove the canister to the mounti ng frame. connectio n box. The box is attached
the trim, lightbulb, and reflector. The Carefu lly ra ise the canister and set it to the mounti ng frame between the
reflector is held to the caniste r with away from the frame opening. cei ling joists.
smal l springs or mounting clips.
(continued)

4
Cable
Canister
Test for power by touching one probe of neon circuit tester Disconnect the white and black circuit wires by
to grounded wire connection box and inserting other probe removing the wire connectors. Pull the armored cable from
into each wire connector. Tester should not glow. If it does, the wire connection box. Remove the canister through the
there is still power entering box. Return to the service panel frame opening.
and turn off correct circuit.
Adjust the metal tab at the bottom of the fixture socket by Test the socket by attaching the clip of a continuity tester to
prying it up slightly with a small screwdriver. This adjustment the black fixture wire and touching tester probe to the metal
will improve contact with the lightbulb. tab in bottom of the socket. Attach the tester clip to white
fixture wire, and touch probe to the threaded metal socket.
Tester should glow for both tests. If not, then socket is faulty.
Replace the socket (page 483), or install a new light fixture
(next page).

I How to Replace a Recessed Light Fixture
Remove the old light fixture (pages 485 to 486). Buy a Set the fixture canister inside the ceiling cavity, and
new fixture that matches the old fixture. Although the new thread the fixture wires through the opening in the wire
light fixture comes with its own mounting frame, it is easier to connection box. Push the armored cable into the wire
mount the new fixture using the frame that is already in place. connection box to secure it.
3 4
Circuit
Connect the white fixture wire to the white circuit Position the canister inside the mounting frame, and
wire, and the black fixture wire to the black circuit wire, using attach the mounting screws or clips. Attach the reflector and
wire connectors. Attach the coverplate to the wire connection trim. Install a lightbulb with a wattage rating that is the same as
box. Make sure any building insulation is at least 3" from or lower than rating indicated on the fixture. Turn on power at
canister and wire connection box. main service panel.

I Repairing Chandeliers
R epa irin g a chandelier requires spec ia l ca re.
Because chandeliers are h eavy, it is a good id ea
to wo rk w ith a helpe r wh e n re movin g a chandelier.
Support the fixture to preve nt its weight from pulling
aga inst the w ires .
Chandeliers h ave two fixture wires th at are
threaded through the support chain from the electrical
box to the hollow base of the chandelier. The socket
wires co nnect to the fixture wires in sid e this base.
F ixture w ires are id e ntifi e d as hot a nd ne utral.
Look closely for a ra ised stripe on one of th e wires .
This is the ne utral wire th at is co nn ec ted to th e
white circuit wire a nd white socket w ire . The other,
smooth, fixture wire is hot and is co nnected to th e
blac k wires.
If yo u have a new c ha nd e li e r, it may have a
gro undin g wire that run s through th e support chain
to the electri ca l box. If this wire is present, make
sure it is connected to the gro unding w ires in the
e lect ri ca l box.
I How to Repair a Chandelier

2 Mounting
bolt
Label any lights that are not working, Unscrew the retaining nut and lower Mounting variation: Some
using masking tape. Turn off power to the decorative coverplate away from chandeliers are supported only by the
the fixture at the main service panel. the electrical box. Most chandeliers coverplate that is bolted to the electrical
Remove lightbulbs and all shades are supported by a threaded nipple box mounting strap. These types do not
or globes attached to a mounting strap. have a threaded nipple.

3 Grounding
4 Threaded
screw nipple
wire
Unmar ked ｦｩｾＡＮＺＡｬＮＬ［＠
Test for power by touching one probe of neon circuit tester Disconnect fixture wires by removing the wire connectors.
to the green grounding screw and inserting other probe into Marked fixture wire is neutral, and is connected to white circuit
each wire connector. Tester should not glow. If it does, there is wire. Unmarked fixture wire is hot, and is connected to black
still power entering box. Return to service panel, and turn off circuit wire. Unscrew threaded nipple, and carefully place
power to correct circuit. chandelier on a flat surface.
Remove the cap from the bottom of the chandelier, Test socket by attaching clip of continuity tester to black
exposing the wire connections inside the hollow base. socket wire and touching probe to tab in socket. Repeat test
Disconnect the black socket wires from the unmarked fixture with threaded portion of socket and white socket wire. Tester
wire, and disconnect the white socket wires from the marked should glow for both tests. If not, the socket is faulty and must
fixture wire. be replaced.
Fixture
7 Chandelier
Socket
wires
8
Remove a faulty socket by loosening any mounting screws Test each fixture wire by attaching clip of continuity tester
or clips, and pulling the socket and socket wires out of the to one end of wire and touching probe to other end. If tester
fixture arm. Purchase and install a new chandelier socket, does not glow, wire is faulty and must be replaced Install new
threading the socket wires through the fixture arm . wires, if needed, then reassemble and rehang the chandelier.

I Repairing Track Lights
L ike other light fixtures, track lights a re connected
to an electrical box in the ceiling. The circuit w ires
in the box provide power to the entire track, and the
\
current runs alo ng two metal power strip s inside the Electrical box
Track
track. Each fixture on the track has a contact arm with
metal contacts that draw current from the strips to Lever
power the fixture.
Insulating
Common fixture problems are dirty or corroded sleeve
contacts or power strips, and bad sockets. Track lights
are easy to work on because you can quickly remove
individual fixtures to get to the source of the problem.

Shade
Screwdriver Fine sandpaper Track lights are powered by an electrical box connected
Conti nuity tester Crimp-style to the middle of, or at the end of, a track. With multiple track
Combination too l wire connectors sections, special connectors provide the links to power the
entire system.
I How to Clean Track Light Contacts
Turn off the power to the circuit at the main service panel. Sand the metal contacts on the top of the fixture's contact
Shift the lever on the fixture stem to release the fixture from arm, then use a screwdriver to pry up the tabs slightly.
the track. Use fine sandpaper to clean the metal power strips Reattach the fixture to the track, and restore the power. If the
inside the track in the general area where the fixture hangs. fixture doesn't light, test the socket (next page).

I How to Test & Replace a Track Light Socket
Turn off the power to the circuit at Remove the screws securing the To remove the old socket, pull the
the main service panel. Remove the socket, and test the socket with a contact arm from the stem housing,
problem fixture from the track. Loosen continuity tester. Attach the clip to and disconnect the socket wires from
the screws on the stem cover, and the brass track contact, and touch the screw terminals. Pull the socket and
remove the cover. the tester probe to the black wire wires from the shade. If the wires have
connection on the socket. Repeat the an insulating sleeve, remove it and set
test with the white contact and white it aside.
wire connection. If the tester fails to
light in either test, replace the socket.
BUy a replacement socket with the Use a combination tool to strip VA " of Reinstall the socket and contact arm,
same wattage rating as the old one. insulation from each wire end, and attach and reattach the stem cover. Remount
Feed the wires of the new socket into a crimp-style wire connector to each the fixture.
the shade and up through the stem. wire. Fasten the connectors to the proper
Attach the socket to the shade. screw terminals on the contact arm.

I Repairing Ceiling Fans
C ei ling fans contain rapidly moving parts, making
them more susceptible to trouble than many
other electrical fixtures. Installation is a relatively
simp le matter, but l'epairin g a ceiling fan can be
very frustrating. The most common problems you' ll
encounter are balance and noise issues and switch
failure, usually precipitated by the pull chain breaking.
In most cases, both problems can be corrected
without removing the fan from the ceiling. But if you
have difficulty on ladders or simply don't care to wo rk
overhead, consider removing the fan when replacing
the switch.
Sc rewdriver
Ceiling fans are subject to a great deal of vibration and stress,
Combination tool so it's not uncommon for switches and motors to fail. Minimize
Replacement sw itch wear and tear by making sure blades are in balance so the fan
doesn't wobble.
I How to Troubleshoot Blade Wobble

2
Start by checking and tightening all If wobble persists, try switching If the blades are tight and you still
hardware used to attach the blades to around two of the blades. Often, this have wobble, turn the power off at
the mounting arms and the mounting is all it takes to get the fan back into the panel, remove the fan canopy, and
arms to the motor. Hardware tends to balance. If a blade is damaged or inspect the mounting brace and the
loosen over time and this is frequently warped, replace it. connection between the mounting pole
the cause of wobble. and the fan motor. If any connections
are loose, tighten them and then replace
the canopy.

I How to Replace a Pull-chain Switch on a Ceiling Fan
2
Shut off power to the fan circuit at the panel, and then Locate the plastic switch unit (the part that the pull chain
detach the bottom of the fan unit to expose the wires inside. used to be attached to if it broke off). You'll need to replace the
Test the wires by placing one probe of a tester into the wire switch, which may be attached to the power source with wire
connecter that joins the black wires and the other to the connectors or soldered connection that require you to cut the
grounding screw. wires. Fans have four to eight feed wires, depending on the
number of speed settings. Label the wires before you remove
the old switch (this is very important). Remove the old switch.
4,
•
Using the old switch as a reference, purchase an Secure the new switch in the housing and make sure
identical new switch. Hook up the new switch using the all wires are tucked neatly inside. Restore power and test the
same wiring configuration as on the old model. On newer switch before replacing the cap. (If you have improperly wired
fans, this probably require inserting the wires from the fan the switch, it may run only at one or two speeds, so test all
into the switch and crimping them (most switches come with settings). Reattach the base cap.
installation instructions).

I Repairing & Replacing Fluorescent Lights
F lu oresce nt li ghts a re re lati ve ly troubl e-free a nd
use less e ne rgy tha n in ca nd esce nt li ghts. A typi ca l
flu orescent tube las ts about three years a nd produces
with yo ur loca l e nvironm e nta l co ntrol age ncy or hea lth
departm e nt for di sposal guid elin es .
Flu oresce nt light fixtures also ca n malfuncti on
two to fo ur tim es as much li ght pe r watt as a sta ndard if t he soc kets a re c rac ked or wo rn . In ex pe nsive
in ca nd esce nt li ght bulb. re pl ace me nt sockets a re ava il a bl e at a ny ha rd wa re
T h e mos t freque nt p robl e m with a flu oresce nt store and ca n be in stall ed in a few minutes .
li ght fixture is a wo rn -o ut tube . If a flu oresce nt light If a fi xture does not wo rk eve n after th e tube
fixt ure begin s to fli c ke r, or does not light full y, remove a nd socke ts have bee n se rviced, t he ball ast prob a bl y
a nd exa min e the tube. If the t ube has bent or broke n is de fect ive. Fa ul ty ba ll asts may lea k a bl ack,
pins, or bl ack di sco loration nea r th e e nd s, repl ace o il y sub sta nce a nd ca n ca u se a flu oresce nt li ght
it. Light gray di scolora ti on is norm a l in wo rking fixture to make a lo ud hummin g so und. Alth o ugh
flu oresce nt tubes . W he n replac ing an old tube, rea d b all as ts ca n b e repl ace d , always ch eck p ri ces
the wa ttage rating p rinted on th e glass surface, a nd befo re bu yin g a new b a ll as t. It may be ch ea p e r to
buy a new tube with a matching rating. Neve r di spose purc hase a nd in sta ll a new flu oresce nt fixture rath e r
of o ld tubes by brea kin g th e m . F luo resce nt tubes th a n to re pl ace t he ba ll ast in a n o ld fluoresce nt
co nta in a sma ll a moun t of haza rdo us me rc ury. C heck li ght fixt u reo
Ballast
4 Coverplate
ｾｐｩｮｳ＠
Fluorescent
tubes
Diffuser
A fluorescent light works by directing electrical current through a special gas-filled tube that glows when energized. A white
translucent diffuser protects the fl uorescent tube and softens the light. A coverplate protects a special transformer, called a ballast.
The ballast regulates the flow of 120-volt household current to the sockets. The sockets transfer power to metal pins that extend
into the tube.

Problem Repair
Tube flickers, or lights portiolly. I. Rotote tube to moke sure it is seoted properly in the sockets.
2. Replace tube (poge 496 ) and the storter (where present) if tube is discolored
or if pins ore bent or broken.
3. Replace the ballost (page 498 ) if replocement cost is reasonoble. Otherwise,
replace the entire fixture (poge 499).
Tube does not light. I. Check wall switch, and repoir or replace, if needed (pages 474 to 477) .
2. Rotote the tube to make sure it is seated properly in sockets.
3. Reploce tube (poge 496 ) ond the storter (where present) if tube is discolored
or if pins are bent or broken.
4. Replace sockets if they ore chipped or if tube does not seat properly (page 497) .
5. Replace the ballast (page 498 ) ar the entire fi xture (page 499 ).
Naticeable black substance araund ballast. Replace ballast (page 498 ) if replacement cost is reasanable. Otherwise,
replace the entire fi xture (page 499 ).
Fixture hums. Replace ballast (page 498 ) if replacement cast is reasanable. OtherWise,
replace the entire fixture (page 499 ).
Sc rewdri ver
Ratc he t wre nc h
C ombin ation tool
Circ uit teste r
Repl acement tubes
Sta rte rs , or ballast (if needed)
Repl ace me nt Auoresce nt light
fi xture (if needed )
Older fluorescent lights may have a small cyl indrical device,

cal led a starter, located near one of the sockets. When a tube
begins to flicker, replace both the tube and the starter. Turn off
the power, the n remove the starter by pushing it slightly and
tu rni ng counterclockwise. Install a replacement that matches
the old starter.

I How to Replace a Fluorescent Tube
2
Turn off power to the light fixture at the main service Remove the fluorescent tube by rotating it % turn in either
panel. Remove the diffuser to expose the fluorescent tube. direction and sliding the tube out of the sockets. Inspect the
pins at the end of the tube. Tubes with bent or broken pins
should be replaced.
Inspect the ends of the fluorescent tube for discoloration. Install a new tube w ith the same wattage rating as the
New tube in good working order (top) shows no discoloration. old tube. Insert the tube so that pins slide fully into sockets,
Normal, working tube (middle) may have gray color. A worn-out then twist tube % turn in either direction until it is locked
tube (bottom) shows black discoloration. securely. Reattach the diffuser, and turn on the power at the
main service panel.

I How to Replace a Socket
1 2 3
,-
\
Coverplate
/
Turn off the power at the main Test for power by touching one probe Remove the faulty socket from the
service panel. Remove the diffuser, of a neon circuit tester to the grounding fixture housing. Some sockets slide out,
fluorescent tube, and the coverplate. screw and inserting the other probe into while others must be unscrewed.
each wire connector. Tester should not
glow. If it does, power is still entering
the box. Return to the service panel,
and turn off correct circuit.
Disconnect wires attached to socket. For push-in fittings Purchase and install a new socket. If socket has
(above) remove the wires by inserting a small screwdriver preattached wire leads, connect the leads to the ballast wires
into the release openings. Some sockets have screw terminal using wire connectors. Replace coverplate, then the fluorescent
connections, while others have preattached wires that must be tube, making sure that it seats properly. Replace the diffuser.
cut before the socket can be removed. Restore power to the fixture at the main service panel.

I How to Replace a Ballast
2 3
Turn off the power at the main Remove the sockets from the fixture Disconnect the wires attached to the
service panel, then remove the diffuser, housing by sliding them out, or by sockets by pushing a small screwdriver
fluorescent tube, and coverplate. Test removing the mounting screws and into the release openings (above), by
for power, using a neon circuit tester. lifting the sockets out. loosening the screw terminals, or by
cutting wires to within 2" of sockets.
Remove the old ballast, using a Install a new ballast that has the Attach the ballast wires to the
ratchet wrench or screwdriver. Make same ratings as the old ballast. socket wires, using wire connectors,
sure to support the ballast so it does screw terminal connections, or push-in
not fall. fittings. Reinstall the coverplate,
fluorescent tube, and diffuser. Turn on
power to the light fixture at the main
service panel.

I How to Replace a Fluorescent Light Fixture
2
Turn off power to the light fixture Disconnect the insulated circuit wires Unbolt the fixture from the wall or
at the main service panel. Remove the and the bare copper grounding wire ceiling, and carefully remove it. Make
diffuser, tube, and coverplate. Test for from the light fixture. Loosen the cable sure to support the fixture so it does
power, using a neon circuit tester. clamp holding the circuit wires. not fall.
4 5
Position the new fixture, threading Connect the circuit wires to the Attach the fixture coverplate, then
the circuit wires through the knockout fixture wires, using wire connectors. install the fluorescent tubes, and attach
opening in the back of the fixture. Follow the wiring diagram included with the diffuser. Turn on power to the fixture
Bolt the fixture in place so it is firmly the new fixture. Tighten the cable clamp at the main service panel.
anchored to framing members. holding the circuit wires.

I Replacing a Plug
R ep lace a n e lect ri ca l plug whe neve r yo u notice be nt
or loose pron gs, a c rac ked or da maged casing, or a
missing insulating fac e plate. A damaged plug poses a
shock a nd fire hazard.
Repl ace me nt p lu gs al'e ava ila bl e in different
styles to match co mmon appliance cords. Always
choose a re placement that is simila r to the original
plug. Flat-cord and qu ick-co nnect plugs are used
with li ght-duty app li a nces, like la mps a nd radios.
Round -cord plu gs are used with larger applia nces,
includin g those th at have three- prong grounding plugs .
So me tools and appliances use polari zed plu gs ,
A pol ari zed plu g h as one wide prong and one narrow
prong, correspo nding to the hot and ne utral slots
found in a sta ndard receptacle.
If there is room in the plu g body, t ie t he indi vidua l
wi res in an und e rwriter's knot to sec ure th e plug to
the cord.
Com bination tool Screwdriver

Need le nose p li e rs Rep lace me nt p lu g
I How to Install a Quick-connect Plug
Squeeze the prongs of the new Feed unstripped wire through rear Variation: When replacing a polarized
quick-connect plug together slightly of plug casing. Spread prongs, then plug, make sure that the ridged half of
and pull the plug core from the casing. insert wire into opening in rear of core. the cord lines up with the wider (neutral)
Cut the old plug from the flat-cord wire Squeeze prongs together; spikes inside prong of the plug.
with a combination tool, leaving a clean core penetrate cord. Slide casing over
cut end. core until it snaps into place.

I How to Replace a Round-cord Plug
Cut off round cord near the old plug, using a combination Tie an underwriter's knot with the black and white wires.
tool. Remove the insulating faceplate on the new plug, and feed Make sure the knot is located close to the edge of the stripped
cord through rear of plug. Strip about 3" of outer insulation from outer insulation. Pull the cord so that the knot slides into the
the round cord. Strip %" insulation from the individual wires. plug body.
Hook end of black wire clockwise around brass screw and Tighten the screws securely, making sure the copper wires
white wire around silver screw. On a three-prong plug, attach do not touch each other. Replace the insulating faceplate.
third wire to grounding screw. If necessary, excess grounding
wire can be cut away.
I How to Replace a Flat-cord Plug
Cut old plug from cord using a combination tool. Pull apart Hook ends of w ires clockwise around the screw terminals,
the two halves of the flat cord so that about 2" of wire are and tighten the screw terminals securely. Reassemble the plug
separated. Strip %" insulation from each half. Remove casing casing Some plugs may have an insulating faceplate that must
cover on new plug. be installed.

I Replacing a Lamp Socket
N ext to th e cord plug, th e most common source
of troubl e in a lamp is a worn lightbulb socket.
\"'h e n a lamp socke t asse mbly fa il s, the probl e m
is usuall y with th e socket-sw itc h unit, although
re pl ace me nt soc ke ts may in c lud e oth e r pa rts you do
not need.
La mp failure is not al ways ca used by a bad
soc ket. You can avoid unn ecessary re pairs by c hec king
th e la mp cord, plug, a nd li ghtbulb be fore repl ac ing
th e socket.
Repl ace ment socke t

C ontinuity tester
Sc rewdri ve r
Socket-mounted switch types are usually interchangeable:

choose a replacement you prefer. Clockwise from top left: twist
knob, remote switch, pu ll chain, push lever.
Tip ｾ＠
When replacing a lamp socket, you can improve a
standard ON-OFF lamp by instal ling a three-way socket.
502 • THE COI\ IPLETE PH OTO GU ID E TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

I How to Repair or Replace a Lamp Socket
Contact tab
Unplug lamp. Remove shade, squeeze outer shell of socket Check for loose wire connections
lightbulb, and harp (shade bracket). near PRESS marking, and lift it off. On on screw terminals. Refasten any loose
Scrape contact tab clean with a small older lamps, socket may be held by connections, then reassemble lamp,
screwdriver. Pry contact tab up slightly screws found at the base of the screw and test. If connections are not loose,
if flattened inside socket. Replace bulb, socket. Slip off cardboard insulating remove the wires, lift out the socket,
plug in lamp, and test. If lamp does sleeve. If sleeve is damaged, replace and continue with the next step.
not work, unplug, remove bulb, and entire socket.
continue with next step.
Harp
Test for lamp cord problems with If cord and plug are functional, then Slide insulating sleeve and outer
continuity tester. Place clip of tester on choose a replacement socket marked shell over socket so that socket and
one prong of plug. Touch probe to one with the same amp and volt ratings screw terminals are fu lly covered and
exposed wire, then to the other wire. as the old socket. One half of flat-cord switch fits into sleeve slot. Press socket
Repeat test with other prong of plug. lamp wire is covered by insulation that assembly down into cap until socket
If tester fails to light for either prong, is ridged or marked: attach this wire to locks into place. Replace harp, lightbulb,
then replace the cord and plug. Retest the silver screw terminal. Connect other and shade.
the lamp. wire to brass screw.

I Installing an Electrical Box
I nsta ll an e lectrical box any time yo u find exposed wire
conn ec ti ons or cable splices . Exposed connecti ons
sometim es can be found in older hom es, wh ere wires
attac h to li ght fi xtures . Ex posed spli ces (page 4 35) can
be fo und in areas whe re NM (nonme ta lli c) ca bl e run s
th ro ugh un cove red joists or wall stud s, such as in an
unfini sh ed base me nt or utility room.
\ l\The n in sta llin g a n e lectri ca l box, make sure th e re
is e nou gh ca bl e to prov id e a bout 8" of wire in s ide the
box. If th e wires are too short, yo u ca n add pigta il s
to le ngth e n th e m (page 4 38) . If th e elec tri cal box
is metal, make sure th e c irc uit grounding wires are
pigtail ed to the box.
C irc uit teste r C abl e c la mp s

Sc rewdri ver Loc knu ts
H a mme r Pi gtail wire
Electrical boxes are required for all wire connections.
Sc rews or na il s Wire co nn ectors The box protects wood and other flammable materials from
E lect ri cal box electrical sparks (a rcing). Electri cal boxes should always be
anchored to joists or studs.
I How to Install an Electrical Box for Cable Splices

1 2
Turn off power to circuit wires Test for power. Touch one probe of a Open one knockout for each cable
at the main service panel. Careful ly circu it tester to the black hot wires, and that will enter the box, using a hammer
remove any tape or wire connecto rs touch other probe to the white neutral and screwdrive r. Any unopened
from the exposed splice. Avoid contact wires. The tester should not glow. If it knockouts sho uld remain sealed.
with the bare wire ends until the wi res does, the wires are still hot. Shut off power
have been tested for powe r. to correct circu it at the main service
panel. Disconnect the spliced wires.

4 6
Anchor the electrical box to a Thread each cable through a Insert the cables into the electrical
wooden framing member, using screws cable clamp. Tighten the clamp with box, and screw a locknut onto each
or nails. a screwdriver. Do not overtighten. cable clamp.
Overtightening can damage
cable sheathing.
-8 Grounding
Coverplate
Tighten the locknuts by pushing Use wire connectors to reconnect carefully tuck the wires into the box,
against the lugs with the blade of the wires. Pigtail the copper grounding and attach the coverplate. Turn on the
a screwdriver. wires to the green grounding screw in power to the circuit at the main service
the back of the box. panel. Make sure the box remains
accessible, and is not covered with
finished walls or ceilings.

I Fixing & Replacing Doorbells
M ost doorbe ll proble ms a re ca used by loose wire
connec ti ons or worn-out sw itches. Reconnec ting
loose wires or re pl ac in g a switch reguires onl y a few
t he rm ostat syste m is located nea r th e furn ace a nd
has a vo ltage rating of 24 volt s or more .
O ccasio nally, a doo rbell proble m is ca used by a
minutes . Doorbe ll probl e ms a lso ca n occ ur if the broke n low-vol tage wire so mew he re in the syste m.
c hime uni t beco mes dirty Ot· wo rn , or if th e low-voltage You ca n test for wire brea ks with a batte ry-ope rated
tra nsform er burns out. Both parts are easy to replace. multi-tes ter. If th e tes t indi ca tes a break, new
Beca use doorbe ll s ope rate at low voltage , th e switc hes low-voltage wires mu st be install ed be twee n the
a nd t he c him e unit can be se rviced with out t urning tra nsfo rm e r a nd the sw itc hes, or betwee n th e switc hes
off powe r to the syste m. Howeve r, whe n repl ac ing a and c him e uni t. Re pl ac ing low-vo ltage wires is no t a
tra nsform er, always turn off th e powe r at th e ma in diffi cult job, but it ca n be time-co nsuming. Yo u may
service panel. ch oose to have an e lec tri c ia n do thi s work.
M ost h ouses h ave oth e r low-voltage tra nsform e rs
in additi on to th e doorb e ll tra nsform e r. T h ese
tra nsform e rs co ntrol hea tin g a nd a ir-conditionin g
t he rm os tats, or ot he r low-vo ltage syste ms. Wh e n Tools & Materials ｾ＠
tes ting a nd re pa irin g a doo rbe ll sys te m, it is
importa nt to id e nti fy th e cor rec t tra nsform e r. A Co ntinuity tes ter Repl ace me nt
doo rbe ll tra nsform e r has a voltage rating of 24 Sc rewdri ver doorbe ll sw itch
volts or less. T hi s ra tin g is prin ted on th e face of M ultim ete r (if needed )
the tra nsform e r. A doorbe ll t ra nsform e r oft e n is Needl e nose plie rs Mas kin g ta pe
loca ted nea r th e ma in se rvice pa nel and in some C otton swa b Repl ace me nt c hime
h omes is attac h ed directl y to th e service pan el. Th e Rubbing alcohol unit (i f needed)
tra nsform e r that control s a heat in g/ a ir-co nditionin g
Electrical
box
Transformer Low-voltage
wires
Home doorbell system is powered by a transformer that reduces 120-volt current to low·voltage current of 24 vo lts or less.
Current flows from the transformer to one or more push-button switches. When pushed, the switch activates a magnet coi l inside
the chime unit, causing a plunger to strike a musical tuning bar

I How to Test a Doorbell System
Remove the mounting screws Carefully pull the switch away from Check wire connections on the
holding the doorbell switch to the house. the wall. switch. If wires are loose, reconnect
Shut off power at the service panel. them to the screw terminals. Test
the doorbell by pressing the button.
If the doorbell still does not work,
disconnect the switch and test it with a
continuity tester.
Test the switch by attaching the clip Twist the doorbell switch wires Locate the doorbell transformer,
of a continuity tester to one screw together temporarily to test the other often located near the main service
terminal and touching the probe to parts of the doorbell system. panel. Transformer may be attached to
the other screw terminal. Press the an electrical box, or may be attached
switch button. Tester should glow. If directly to the side of the service panel.
not, then the switch is faulty and must
be replaced.
(continued)

Identify the doorbell transformer Reattach coverplate. Inspect the Touch the probes of the multi-tester
by reading its voltage rating . Doorbell low-voltage wire connections, and to the low-voltage screw terminals
transformers have a voltage rating reconnect any loose wires, using on the transformer. Set the dial of
of 24 volts or less. Turn off power to needlenose pliers. Turn on power to the the multi meter to the 50-volt (AC)
transformer at main service panel. transformer at the main service panel. range if the meter is not auto ranging.
Remove cover on electrical box, If transformer is operating properly,
and test wires for power (page 507, the meter will detect power within
step 3). Reconnect any loose wires. 2 volts of transformer's rating. If not,
Replace taped connections with the transformer is faulty and must
wire connectors. be replaced.
Test the chime unit. Remove the Test that the chime unit is receiving Clean the chime plungers with a
coverplate on the doorbell chime current. Touch probes of a multimeter to cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol.
unit. Inspect the low-voltage wire screw terminals marked TRANSFORMER Reassemble doorbell switches, then
connections, and reconnect any and FRONT. If the multimeter detects test the system by pushing one of the
loose wires. power within 2 volts of the transformer switches. If doorbell still does not work,
rating, then the unit is receiving proper then the chime unit is faulty and must
current. If it detects no power or very be replaced.
low power, there is a break in the
low-voltage wiring, and new wires must
be installed .

I How to Replace a Doorbell Switch
Remove the doorbell switch Disconnect wires from switch. Tape Purchase a new doorbell
mounting screws, and carefu lly pull wires to the wall to prevent them from switch, and connect wires to screw
the switch away from the wall. Shut off slipping into the wall cavity. terminals on new switch . (Wires are
power at the service panel. interchangeable and can be connected
to either terminaL) Anchor the switch to
the wall.
I How to Replace a Doorbell Chime Unit

2 3
Turn off power to the doorbell Purchase a new chime unit that Connect the low-voltage wires to
at the main panel. Remove the matches the voltage rating of the old the screw terminals on the new chime
coverplate from the old chime. Label unit. Thread the low-voltage wires unit. Attach the coverplate and turn on
the low-voltage wires FRONT, REAR, or through the base of the new chime unit. the power at the main service panel.
TRANS to identify their screw terminal Attach the chime unit to the wall, using
locations. Disconnect the wires. Remove the mounting screws included with the
the old chime unit. Tape the wires to the installation kit.
wall to prevent them from slipping into
the wall cavity (inset).

I Installing Hardwired Smoke,
Carbon Monoxide (CO) & Heat Alarms
S moke and ca rbon monox ide (C O ) ala rm s are a n

esse nti al safety compone nt of a ny li ving fac ili ty.
All nationa l fi re p rotection cod es require th at new
of alarm s, be sure to use alarm s of th e sa me bra nd to
e nsure co mpatiili ty. Always c hec k local codes befo re
sta rti ng the job.
homes h ave a hard -wired s moke a la rm in eve ry Ceiling- in stall ed ala rm s should be fo ur in c hes
sleepin g roo m a nd on eve ry level of a res ide nce , away from th e neares t wa ll. Don't install smoke alarm s
in c ludin g base me nts, attics, a nd attac hed ga rages. near win dows, doo rs, or d ucts whe re d rafts mi ght
Smoke a larm s mu st have a ci rc ui t with AFC r inte rfe re wit h thei r ope rat io n.
p rotec tion whe n install ed in bedrooms.
M os t auth orities also reco mme nd CO detec tors
on every level of th e h ouse a nd in eve lY sleeping a rea. Tools & Materials ｾ＠
Hea t alarm s, whi ch de tec t hea t instead of smoke,
are ofte n speC ifi ed for locati ons like utili ty rooms, Sc rewdri ver Cable clamp s (if boxes
base me nts, or unfini shed att ics whe re condi t io ns may Co mbin ation tool are not self-c la mpin g)
ca use nui sa nce trip ping of s moke a la rm s. Fish tape 2- and 3-wire 14-ga uge
Hard- wire d alarm s operate on yo ur h ouseh old Drywa ll saw NM cable
elec tri ca l c urre nt, but have batte ry bac kup s in case Wa ll or ce ilin g Alarm s
of a powe r outage. O n new homes, all smoke a larms outl et boxes W ire co nn ec tors
mu st be wired in a se ri es so that eve ry alarm soun ds IS -amp single-pole breaker
rega rdless of th e fire's locatio n. W he n wirin g a seri es
Hardwired carbon monoxide detectors

(A) are triggered by the presence of
carbon monoxide gas. Smoke detectors
are available in photoelectric and
ionizing models. In ionizing detectors (B),
a small amount of current flows in an
ionization chamber. When smoke enters
the chamber, it interrupts the current,
triggering the alarm. Photoelectric
detectors (C) rely on a beam of light,
which, when interrupted by smoke,
triggers an alarm. Heat alarms (D) sound
an alarm when they detect areas of high
heat in the room.

I How to Connect a Series of Hardwired Smoke Alarms
Pull 14/2 NM cable from the service panel into the first ceiling electrical box in the smoke alarm series. Pull 14/3 NM cable
between the remaining alarm outlet boxes. Use cable clamps to secure the cable in each outlet box. Remove sheathing and strip
insulation from wires.
Wire the first alarm in the series. Use a wire connector to Wire the remaining alarms in the series by connecting
connect the ground wires. Splice the black circuit wire with the the like-colored wires in each outlet box. Always connect the
alarm's black lead and the black wire going to the next alarm in red traveler wire to the odd-colored (in this case, red) alarm
the series. splice the white circuit wire with the alarm's white wire. This red traveler wire connects all the alarms together so
wire and the white (neutral) wire going to the next alarm in the that when one alarm sounds, all the alarms sound. If the alarm
series. Splice the red traveler wire with the odd-colored alarm doesn't have a grounding wire, cap the ground with a wire
wire (in this case, the red wire). connector. When all alarms are wired, install and connect the
new 15-amp breaker.

I Repairing & Replacing Phone Jacks
lthough th e te lep hone company owns the wires in sta llin g a modul a r jac k in pl ace of a n outd ate d jac k
A that bring telephone servi ce to the house, repair
and new installation can take place in any part of the
(page 5 14), a nd in stalling a juncti on box (page 5 15 )
that all ows addition al ph one jacks to be run anywhe re
te le phone syste m that exte nds past th e company's in th e house .
de marcation jac k. T he de ma rcati on jac k is usuall y A ph one ca n be plugged direc tl y in to th e
located in a basement or utili ty area, although it may also de marcati on jack to find out if a proble m lies in th e
be mounted on a baseboard in a home's living quarte rs. house wirin g or in th e ph one co mpa ny's wires a nd
Beca use the voltage runnin g through te le phone equipm e nt. If th e re is no di a l tone at th e de ma rcati on
wires is ve ry low, th e re is little danger of shoc k whe n jack, th e proble m li es outs id e th e ho me and should
wo rking on th e wirin g. Still , it is best not to work in be fi xed by th e phon e compa ny. If th e re is a di al ton e,
wet co ndition s whe n repa irin g a ny wiring. Also, do howeve r, thi s mea ns th at any p roble m li es insid e
not work on a ph one sys te m if you wea r a ca rdiac the house.
pace maker, beca use the mild elec tri ca l c urre nts in Note: As the needs f or In ternet service and network
phone lin es ca n interfe re with th e device. data linlts in the home becom e increasingly important,
Co mm on tele ph one re pa irs in c lude re pl ac ing larger and stronger telecommunication cables are needed
a loose or broke n modula t· co nn ect ion (page 513) , in place of standard two -way telephone lines.
Telephone jacks
101-- 1- Junction box
Telephone
Demarcation jack
Two methods are used to wire phone systems. Relative ly new systems are wired using the home run method (shown above),
in which a wire distribution hub, or junction box, feeds ind ividua l lines to various phone jacks in the house. A junction box allows
new jacks to easily be added by running new wires from the box to the new location. If one line becomes damaged, the other jacks
wi ll sti ll operate. Older systems use a continuous loop method. With this method, various jacks are installed along a single loop of
wi re runni ng th roughout the house. A co ntinuous loop is easier to insta ll but less reliable since a single problem in the wire can
render all the jacks inoperable.

Troubleshooting Phone Problems ｾ＠
Problems Possible causes Solutions

Dead air; no sound an line. Wires may be crossed. Make sure bare copper wires inside jack aren't tau(hing.
Static an line. Wires may be wet. Check far moisture in phone jacks.
Check all connections.
Buzzing on line. Wires may be touching metal. Check all wires and (onne(tions.
Wires may be connected to wrong terminals. Check (olor (oding of connections.
I How to Replace a Modular Connector
Remove the telephone cord from Insert the cord into the stripper Insert the individual wires into
the wa ll jack and te lephone. Use wire section of th e tool. Squeeze t he a plastic connector in the opposite
cutters to sn ip off the cord just be low handle just enough to seve r the outer sequence from that at the other end of
the connector to be rep laced . Make insulation. Tug on the cord to pul l the the cord. Make su re the wires are flush
sure to trim the cord at a straight angle. wires free of the insulation. Make su re with the top of connecto r and to uch ing
not to cut the inner insulation on the the metal contacts. Use a crimper tool
individua l wi res. to secure the connector to the wi res.
Wire Assignments ｾ＠
Most phone cords have four wires: The red terminal will ampt: The yellow terminal will ampt:
red, green, yellow, and bla(k. • a red wire • a yellow wire
But there are two other possible • a blue wire • an orange wire
(olor schemes. Use the following • a blue wire w/white stripe • an orange wire w/white stripe
as a gUide to (onne(ting the wires: The green terminal will ampt: The bla(k terminal will ampt:
• a green wire • a bla(k wire
• a white wire w/blue stripe • a white wire w/ orange stripe
If there are extra wires in the cord (usually these will be green and white), they con be tucked into the jack and left unconnected. The phone (om pony will use
these wires to (onne(t additional phone lines if you should ever need them.

I How to Install a Modular Jack
Disconnect the phone cord from the jack. Unscrew the Disconnect the individual wires from the terminals on
phone jack from the wall or baseboard with a screwdriver. the jack Clip off the bare copper ends of the wire, using a
Gently pull the jack away from the wall. wire cutter.
Remove casing from the connection block on the new Screw the connection block to the wall with the screw
modular jack, and feed phone cables through the back of the included with the jack, and snap coverplate in place. Attach a
base piece. Force each colored wire into one of the metal phone to the new jack, and test it to make sure it works.
slots on the terminal block that has a wire of the same or
acceptable color (page 513) About y," of wire should extend
through the slot.

I How to Install a Telephone Junction Box
2
Select a location that allows the cable for the junction box to Trim all but 5" of cable, and strip off 3" of outer insulation,
reach the demarcation jack. Snap off the cover of the junction using a crimper. Strip 1" of inner insulation from each of the
box. Attach the box to a wall, baseboard, or framing member, four individual wires, using a utility knife. LOOp the bare copper
using the mounting screws that are included with it. Run wires clockwise around demarcation jack screw terminals,
phone cable to the demarcation jack. Secure to wall or framing matching the colors. Tighten screws. Note: Some junction
members with staples every 24". boxes have attached cords with modular connections that plug
directly into demarcation jacks.
Loosen one terminal screw on each of the four color-coded For each phone extension line, attach the cable to the
sections of the junction box. Insert each wire into a slot in junction box following the same procedure used for the cable
the corresponding section . About y," of wire should extend running to the demarcation jack. Screw the terminals down
through the slot. tight, then bend the wires upright so they don't touch each
other. Snap the cover back on the junction box.

I
Heating,
Ventilation &
Air Conditioning
In this chapter:
• Maintaining Gas Forced-air Systems
• Maintaining Hot Water & Steam Systems
• Identifying & Repairing Exhaust Leaks
• Repairing Electric Baseboard Heaters
• Repairing Wail-mounted Electric Heaters
• Fixing & Replacing Thermostats
• Installing a Ridge Vent
• Installing New Vents
• 517
I Maintaining Gas Forced-air Systems
G as forced-air syste ms a re wid e ly used in cool
climates wo rld wid e. A gas forc ed-air furn ace-
running on natural gas or liguid propane (LP) -draws
in surrounding air, c hannel s it across a set of heated Main duct
pl ates, known as a heat exc ha nge r, a nd then uses Plenum
Exhaust flue
a blower to c irculate the air throughout th e hou se
Heat
(illustration ). A cha mber on top of th e furnace, known
as a plenum, leads the wa rm ed a ir from the furn ace !ilｾｾＺｊｩＺ［ｾ＠ exchanger
Combustion
to a netwo rk of du cts that ca rry the wa rm a ir to heat chamber
Cold air
registers or ve nts mounted on walls or ce ilin gs . To
keep th e cycle go in g, return du cts carty cooled a ir
from each room back to th e furn ace so it ca n be
rehea ted a nd rec irc ulated. Older syste ms use gravity
to carry wa rm a ir throughout th e hou se and cool air
bac k to the furnace .
motor
Identifying the plenum and cold air return, as well as the
main duct leading to the rooms in your home, is a good way to
begi n familiarizing yourself with your forced-air system.
I Balancing a Forced-air System

Most forced-a ir system s have dampers within the indi cate the co rrec t setting for eac h dam per (photo I ).
ducts that let yo u co ntrol how mu c h air flo ws to Repeat the process in the summ e r for air co nditionin g,
va riou s parts of the hou se. These are sepa rate from making a seco nd set of marks to indi cate the co rrect
the registe rs use d to ma nage a irflow within each da mper settings for cooling.
room. Adju sting the da mpers is called balancing
the syste m .
Start by locatin g the dampers (illustration ). When
a damper handl e or wing nut is parallel to the duct,
it is wide open, a llowin g max imum airflow. When the
handl e is perpendicular to th e du ct, it is c losed.
To balance yo ur syste m, sta rt by se tting th e
thermo stat as yo u wo uld for the tim es whe n yo u're at
hom e. C lo se the dampers that lead to the room with
the thermostat. '!\Ia it a few hours, and go to the rooms
th at are farthes t from th e furnace. If those rooms are
too warm, leave them unti1later, wh e n more dampe rs
a re open. C hec k the other rooms for co mfort. Aft er
eac h damper adju stm e nt, wa it a few hours for the a ir
te mperature to stabilize. Mark damper positions on each duct, and indicate which
Once yo u're sa ti sfi ed with th e heat each room room is affected by the settings. Open or close the damper
receives, use a permanent marke r on eac h duct to using a screwdriver or by turning the wing nut (inset).

I Maintaining a Forced-air System
You can handle most routine furnace maintena nce main power switch and the power to the furn ace at the
yo urse lf. Generally, the newer the furnace, the simpler main service panel. C heck yo ur owner's manual for any
the mainte na nce, s ince a numbe r of heavy- mainte na nce warnings or spec ia l instru ct ions concern ing your furnace.
compon ents have been eliminated on newer models. Then, clea r the area, so you have a safe work space.
Most furnaces install ed since the 1980s do not Start with th e most important a nd s implest
have a thermocouple-controlled pilot li ght. In fact, fu rn ace ma inte nan ce proced ure- in spectin g the air
the sta ndin g pilot light found on older Furnaces ha s filter. There are ma ny types of filters. Rea d the sec tion
bee n eliminated completely. In most cases, it's been below to find out how to clean yo urs a nd how often it
replaced with either a n intermitte nt pilot light that's lit mu st be changed.
only when th ere's a call for heat from the thermostat,
or a glowin g e le me nt, known as a hot-s urface igniter.
An inte rmitte nt pilot light mu st be repa ired by a
profess ion al technici an, sh ould it fail. You ca n replace Tools & Materials ｾ＠
a hot-s urface igniter yo urself.
Use this section to ide ntify a nd compl ete the Standard sc rewdriver C hann el-type plie rs
ma inte na nce procedures that app ly to the fu rn ace in Ratch et wre nc h Pilot jet tool
your hom e. Nut drive r Parts brush
Before doing any mainte nance, always turn off the Open-end wre nch set Mild liquid detergent
furn ace's main gas supply and the pilot gas supply, if your Straightedge Light mac hin e oil
furnace has a separate one. Then, switch off the furna ce's
I Replacing the Air Filter

The air filter on your forced-air furnace is designed air duct and blower. A few styles are located ins ide the
to capture dust, pollen, and other airborn e particles. main furnace compartment. An e lectrostatic filter is
The filter mu st be clea ned regularly, acco rding to the installed in a separate unit attac hed to the furnace.
manufac turer's spec ifi cations, and should be inspected Slide th e filte r out of its co mpartme nt, taking care
once a month. Locate the filter compartment and not to catc h it on the sides of the blower hous ing.
re move the access cover (photo I). T he locat ion of the Hold the filter up to a light (photo 2). If the filter
compartment de pend s on th e furn ace type and the style blocks much of the li ght, replace it. Elec trostatic
of filter. Many filters fit in a slot betwee n th e return filte rs can be reused after clea nin g.
Many filters are located between the return air duct and the Hold the filter up to a bright light for inspection.
blower, and rest in a slot or bracket.
HeaUng, Ventilation & Air C onditi oning • 519

I Maintaining the Blower Motor
Inspect the blower motor before the start of th e midway between the pulleys (photo 3). The belt
heat ing seaso n. Inspect it again before the start of the should fl ex about I ". To tighten or loos e n the belt,
cooling season if your central ai r co nditioning uses the locate the pulley tension adjustment nut on the blower
sa me blower. motor (photo 4). Loose n the locknut, a nd turn th e
Turn off the power to th e furnace. Remove the adjustment nut slightly. Check the belt te nsion, and
access panel to the blower housin g and inspect the readjust as required until the tension is correct.
motor (photo I). Some motors ha ve oil ports and If the belt is out of alignment or the bea rings are
a n adjustable, replaceable drive belt. Others are wo rn , adjusting the te nsion will not solve th e proble m.
self-lubricatin g a nd have a direc t-drive mechanism. With the power off, hold a straightedge so it's flush
Wipe the motor clean with a damp cloth and check with the edge of both pulleys (photo 5). To align the
for oil fill ports. The access panel may include a belt, locate the mounting bolts on the motor's sliding
di agram indicating their location. Remove the covers bracket (photo 6). Loosen the bolts, and move the
to th e ports (if equipped ) and add a fe w drops of light motor carefully until th e pulleys are align ed. Tighten
machine oil (photo 2). Place the covers on the ports. the bolts and check the tension and alignment again.
With the power still off, inspect the drive belt. Repeat until the pulley is aligned and the tension
If it is cracked , wo rn , glazed, or brittle, replace it. adjusted. Replace the furnace access panels. Restore
Check the belt te nsion by pu shing down ge ntly power and sw itch on the furna ce.
Remove the access panel to the Remove the covers to the oil ports Check the tension by pushing down
blower housing and inspect the motor. and add a few drops to each port. on the middle of the belt.
Loosen the pulley tension adjustment Check the pulley alignment. using Loosen the bolts that hold the motor
nut slightly to tighten the belt. a straightedge. on its sliding bracket, and move the motor
carefully until the pulleys are aligned

I Inspecting the Pilot & Thermocouple
T he pilot li ght (it's ac tuall y a flam e used to ignite gas the the rm oco upl e. If th e fl ame is too stro ng (ce nte r
fl owin g t hro ugh the burn e rs) pl ays a large rol e in the fl a me ), it will also be blue, bu t may be noisy a nd lift
e ffi c ie ncy of th e e ntire sys te m, a nd a c lea n-burning off th e pilot. A we ll- adju sted fl a me (ri ght fl a me ) will
pilot saves money, improves ind oo r a ir qu ality, a nd be blue with a yell ow tip , and cover \I," at th e e nd of
exte nd s furnace life. the th e rm ocouple. Turn th e pil ot adju stm e nt sc rew
If yo ur furn ace has a sta nd ing pil ot light, always (ph oto 3) on the co ntrol hous in g o r gas valve to reduce
c hec k th e fl a me be fo re th e start of th e heat in g seaso n t he p ress ure. If it's wea k, turn the sc rew in the oth e r
to e nsure that it's burning clea nl y a nd with th e prope r direc tion to inc rease th e press ure . If th e fl ame appea rs
mix of a ir and fu el. Start by re movin g the main furn ace weak and yellow eve n a fte r adjustm e nt, re move the
access pa nel. If you ca n't see th e pilot fl a me clea rly, pilot jet a nd clean the orifi ce (page 523).
turn off th e gas suppl y (photo I ) and th e pilot gas If th e pil ot in yo ur furn ace or boi le r goes out
shutoff switc h (if equipped). Wa it 10 minu tes for th e qui c kl y, and yo u have made s ure th e gas s uppl y is
pilot to cool, a nd re move th e pilot cover. Relight the suffi c ie nt , yo u may need to replace th e th erm oco upl e.
pilot, following th e instruction s on th e co ntrol h ousing Turn off th e gas supply. Using an ope n-e nd wre nch ,
or access cove r. If the pilot wo n't stay li t, shut off the loose n the the rm oc ouple tube fi tt ing from the control
gas supp ly o nce aga in a nd inspect the t he rm oco up le. hous ing or gas va lve. U nsc rew th e th e rmocouple from
In spec t the fl ame (ph oto 2). If the fl a me is too the p il ot h ousing a nd install a new one (ph oto 4).
weak (le ft fl a me), it will be blue a nd may barely touch Tighte n it with a wre nch ju st until it's snug.
Turn off the main gas supply and the pilot gas supply (if Adjust the flame so it is steady. has a yel low tip, and
your furnace has a separate one). covers the thermocouple's tip (right).
Turn the screw to adjust the height of the flame so it covers Remove the thermocouple from the control housing and
the top of the thermocouple install a new one.
HeaUng, Ventila tion & Air Conditioning • 521

I Cleaning & Adjusting the Pilot Light
If the thermocouple a nd burn ers in yo ur furn ace or Clean the outside of th e pilot je t with a parts
boiler ap pea r to be worki ng co rrectly, but the pilot brush, and carefull y c lea n the in s ide w it h a pilot
fl a me is in co ns iste nt or weak, re move the pilot jet a nd jet tool. Take ca re not to sc ratc h th e in si de of
clea n or replace it. Turn off th e power a nd close th e th e je t, as thi s will affect its performance. If th e
gas supply, including the gas supply to the pilot if your pilot je t is seve re ly corrod e d or difficult to clean,
unit has a se pa rate one. Wait at least 30 minutes for replace it.
the parts to coo l. Us ing an open-end wre nc h, re move Thread the pilot jet back into the pilot hou sing,
the th e rmocouple from th e pilot hou s ing (photo I ). and re in stall th e h ousing. Reattach th e gas line,
Use two wrenches to hold th e gas line in place, then turning the co nnecting nut whil e holding the line
loose n the nut that connects it to the control hOUSing. steady. Rei nstall th e th e rm oco u pI e. Reopen th e
U nsc rew and remove the pilot housing, then ca refully gas suppl y and turn the power back on, then li ght
re move the pilot jet from the hou sing (photo 2). the pilot.
Loosen the connecting nut on the gas line with an Remove the pilot jet from the housing and clean it with a
open-end wrench. pilot jettool.
I Inspecting the Burner Flame

Once yo u've set the pilot fl a me, c hec k the burn e r so that the fu rn ace co ntinu es to burn. \l\1ea ring
fl a me. T he burn e r fl a me sh ould be blue, with a bluish protective gloves, loose n th e a ir shutter lockin g
gree n flam e at the ce nter and occasional streaks of screw. Open th e shutter wid e, th e n close it slowly
yellow (photo 1). If it appears too blue or too ye llow, until the flam e color is ri ght. Retighten the lockin g
adjust the a ir s hutter at the en d of the burner tube screw. Repeat the procedure for eac h rema inin g
(photo 2) . Sta rt b y se ttin g th e thermostat hi gh burner. Reset th e th e rm os tat .
Compare your burner flame with the two above. Yours If the shutters are adjustable, you can set them yourself.
should be blue-green, with streaks of yellow (top). Otherwise, call a professional for service.

I Cleaning the Burners
Burners work by mixing together gas and air that is Twist each burner carefully to remove it from its
then ignited by a pilot flame or a heated element. spud (photo 2). Fill a laundry tub with water a nd soak the
Gas is delivered by a manifold and enters each burners. Carefu lly clean the outside of the burner tubes
burner tube through a sma ll orifice, known as a sp ud. and the burner ports with a soft-b ri stled brush. Replace
Burners and spuds graduall y become encrusted with any tubes that are cracked, bent, or severely corroded.
soot and other products of the combustion process Inspect the spuds: clean burners won't work
and must be c leaned occasionally to keep them effectively if the spuds are dirty or damaged. Use a
working efficiently. ratchet wrench to loosen and remove each spud (photo
To c lean the burners, turn off the furnace 's main 3). C lean the outside of each spud with a soft-bristled
sh utoff, and sw itch off the power to the furnace at the brush. Then, use a pilot jet tool to clean the in side of
main service panel. Shut off the gas supply, including each spud (photo 4). The tool is designed for c leaning
the pilot gas supply if your unit has a separate one. sma ll orifices, but take spec ia l ca re to avo id scratch ing
Wait at least 30 minutes for the parts to cool. Remove or en larging a sp ud's open ing. Reinstall the spuds in
the burner tubes by unscrewing them from their the manifold. Tighten them just until they're snug.
retaining brackets (photo 1), by pulling out the metal Once the burner tubes are dry, install them on the
pan that holds them , or by loosen in g the sc rews t hat spuds, and attach them to the burner tube b,'ackets or
attach the gas manifold to the furnace. On some burner pan. Connect the pilot housing, if equ ipped.
furnaces, you need to remove the pilot h ousing to Turn the power and gas supply back on. On furnaces
reach the burners. with a stand in g pilot, relight the pilot flame.
Remove the screws holding the burners to their brackets or If a burner is difficult to remove, twist it carefully from side
to a slide-out pan. to side while lifting and pulling.
To avoid bending or damaging the spud threads, hold the Clean each spud orifice carefully with a pilot jet tool, taking
manifold steady with one hand as you remove each spud. care not to scratch or enlarge the orifice.
HeaUng, Ve ntila tion & A ir Conditi on ing • 523

I Servicing Electronic Ignition Furnaces
Newer furnaces include an intermittent pilot light or thermostat. An intermittent pilot consumes gas only
hot-surface igniter as well as an electronic control center, when necessary, reducing home fuel costs. If the
with warning lights to help you recognize problems. e lectronic ignition fails to spa rk, ca ll a technician
On some newer models, the temperature difference for service.
between the supp ly and return ducts needs to be within Some furnace models ignite the gas with a glowing
a narrow range to avoid damaging the heat exchanger. element, known as a hot-s urface igniter. If the igniter
To nnd out whether th is app li es to you r furnace , check fails, replace it. Remove the main furnace panel and
the information plate on the burner compartment-it locate the igniter just beyond the ignit ion end of the
may include an indication of the acceptable range. burner tubes. Disconnect the igniter plug and remove
Each season, check the differential by sl ipping the nut on the mounting bracket with a nut driver or
the probe of a pocket thermometer into a s li t in an ratchet wrench (photo 2). Replace the igniter.
expans ion joint in the supply duct (photo I). Record If the ign ite r sti ll doesn't function properly, check
the reading and compare it with the temperature in with the manufacturer: you may need to replace
the return air duct. Call a professional technician if the control center. Detach the wires from the old
the difference between the two numbers fal ls outside control center one at a time and attach them to the
the recommend ed range. replacement (photo 3). T hen, disconnect the old
Your furnace may contain an interm ittent pilot, control center, using a screwdriver, and connect the
whi ch is li ghted with a spark when signaled by the new one (photo 4).
Remove the control center wires one at a time and switch Check the temperature inside the supply duct and
them over to the new control center. compare it with the temperature in the return duct.
Disconnect the faulty hot-surface igniter from the Unscrew the control center's mounting screws and
mounting bracket. install the replacement unit.

I Maintaining a High-efficiency Gas Furnace
A high-efficiency gas furnace is defined as a furnace water from a garde n hose through the line (photo
that's at least 90% "efficient ," as determined by an 2). If the drain lin e is black plastic, remove it at
annua l fuel utili za tion efficiency (AFUE ) rating. a connection point, then reattach once it's c lean.
Furnaces made as late as 1992 can have ratings as If the lin e is wh ite, then it's PVC, and you' ll need
low as 60%. A standard, mid-efficient unit sold today to reconnect it to the unit with a coupling after
is about 80% percent, whi le high-efficiency units can c leaning it.
be as high as 96% e fficient. Some furnaces have a removable condensate trap.
Like other furnaces, high-efficiency gas furnaces If yom unit h as one, remove it at the beginning of the
require maintenance. The air filters must be cleaned winter season and clean it out with water. Check the
regularly-electron ic filters need to be c leaned on trap periodically throughout the season and dump the
a monthly basis, and disposable filters shou ld be water as necessary.
changed every three months (photo 1). Check the vent pipes and furnace unit for s igns
If the drain lin e cannot drain properly, moisture of corros ion (photo 3). The water produced by the
can build up inside the heat exchanger and restrict furnace is acidic and wi ll corrode metal quickly, If
gas flow. Inspect the drain lin e to make sme it's free of pipes are leaking, they must be replaced.
kinks. Some furnaces have several dt'ain connections Make sure the a reas around the a ir intake and
that should be inspected. exhaust are unobstructed. Plants, bushes, and other
C lean the drain lin e once a year by materials that block the intake and exhaust can cause
disconnecting it from the furnace and forcing the furnace to shut down (photo 4).
Clean electronic filters every month, then reinsert them in Clean the drain line once a year by running water through
your furnace. it from a garden hose.
Inspect the areas around vent pipes for signs of corrosion . Remove any debris and materials that could block the air
Corroded pipes will need to be replaced. intake and exhaust.
HeaUng, Ventilation & Air Conditioning • 525

I Maintaining a Furnace Humidifier
F urnace humidifiers are an effective means of
increasing the humidity in your home. There are
two types of furnace humidifiers, drum-style and
drip-style. They attach to the furnace 's warm air or
return a ir duct.
A drum-style humidifier picks up water from
a t'eservoi t' or pan, using a rotating drum covered
with an absorbent pad. Air flows through the pad
and the water evaporates, raising the humidity
level. In a drip-style humidifier, water drips into
a stat ionary evaporator pad through which the
a tt' passes.
Drip-style humidifi ers typically consume more Tools & Materials ｾ＠
water, since excess water runs off the bottom of the
pad and into a drain. However, they stay c leaner Tape measure Vinegar
and require far less maintenance, because th e flow Open-end wrench set Replacement
of water greatly reduces scum buildup. Drum-style Chisel evaporator pad
humidifiers must be cleaned more often to keep mold Putty knife (if required)
from growing in the standing water.
I Maintaining a Drip-style Humidifier

A dt'ip-style humidifier shou ld be inspected monthly, any mineral deposits from the V-notches on the tray
The evaporator pad shou ld be replaced at the end of (photo 2).
every heating season. Slide the evaporator pad from the frame (photo 3).
To service a drip-style humidifier, shut off the Twist and flex the evaporator pad to loosen the
power, and turn off the water supp ly, S lid e your deposits , using a putty knife to scrape them away, if
finger under the plastic water out let and lift up to necessaly. If the pad itself crumbles, replace it.
pop off the outlet. Remove the distribution tray by Disconnect the drain hose. Flex it, then flush it with
pushing down on the tray whi le pushing out on the cold water (photo 4). Reassemble the humidifier and attach
plastic frame (photo 1). Use a chise l to scrape out the drain hose. Turn on the e lectricity and the water supply.
Remove the distribution Use a chisel to scrape Remove the evaporator Disconnect the drain hose
tray from the humidifier. mineral deposits from pad from the frame. and flush it with cold water.
the V-notches.

I Maintaining a Drum-style Humidifier
Drum-style evapo rator pads should be cleaned level, ra ise the float height and then tighten the screw. To
monthl y and replaced at th e e nd of each hea ting lower the level, lower the float , then tighten the screw.
season. Turn off the powe r to th e heating and cooling Wait 30 minutes and check the water level and evaporator
system and the wate r at the wate r supply valve. Then , pad again. If water leaks [TOrn the supply tube fitting,
loosen th e nuts or re lease the c li ps that hold th e tighten the nut with a n open-end wrench (photo 5).
humidifi er cover in place, and remove the cover.
Lift out the drum -style eva porator, by holdin g both
e nds (photo 1). If the pad is hard, c lea n or replace it .
Separate the pad from the drum shaft by re moving
th e cli p on th e center spindle a nd pullin g apa rt th e
two parts of the drum shaft (photo 2).
Soak the pad in a 1: 3 mixture of water and
vinegar. Squeeze the pad to rin se it. If the pad re mains
hard or appears da maged , rep lace it. With the pad in
place, use a tape meas ure to ch eck th e depth of the
wa te r in the pan (photo 3). Your owner's manual may
indicate the correct water de pth . If not, see if the pad
dip s into th e wate r in eac h rotation a nd co mes up wet,
and wheth e r there is a min e ral lin e on the s ide of the
tray wa ll , indi ca ting whe re th e water leve l should be.
To adj ust the water level either up or down, loosen
the screw on the float mount (photo 4). To raise the water Remove the drum-style evaporator by lifting it from its slots.
separate the two parts of the drum shaft by removing the Make sure the pad soaks in the water. Mineral deposits
clip and pulling the two pieces apart. left on the wall will indicate the original water level.
Loosen the locknut on the water line with an Adjust the float height and retighten the locknut.
open-end wrench.
HeaUng, Ventilatio n & Air Conditi on ing • 527

I Maintaining Hot Water & Steam Systems
H ot wa te r a nd stea m sys te ms, a lso known as
h ydroni c syste ms, feature a boile r th at hea ts wa te r
a nd c irc ulates it through a closed netwo rk of pipes to a
ＢＢＮｾＭ Thermostat
set of rad iators o r co nvectors. Beca use wate r ex pa nds

a nd con tracts as it heats a nd coo ls, these sys te ms
in clude expa nsion ta nks to ensure a co nstant volum e Hot
water
of water c irc ulating through th e pipes. lines
Hot wate r and stea m syste ms wa rm the
surroun d ing a ir through a process ca ll ed co nvec ti on.
Hot wa te r radi ators (photo I ) are linked to th e syste m
by pipes conn ec ted nea r the bottom of th e radiator. As
wa te r coo ls ins ide th e radiator, it is drawn back to th e
boil e r for reh ea tin g. T he radi ators in stea m sys te ms
(photo 2) have pipes connected nea r th e top of th e
radi ator. Th ese rad iators ca n be very ho t to the touc h.
Co nvec tors (p hoto 3) a re s ma ll e r a nd li ghte r and may water
be used to replace hot wa te r radi ators, or to exte nd a n lines
existing hot wa te r syste m.
Alth ough the deli very of hot wate r or stea m
to the rooms in your ho use is con side red a c losed
syste m, so me air will make its way into th e syste m.
Stea m radi ato rs h ave a n automati c re lease valve that
pe ri odi ca ll y releases hot, moist a ir. H ot wate r radi ators
co nta in a bl eed va lve that mu st pe riodi ca ll y be ope ned
to re lease trapped air. It is usuall y necessary to bleed Fuel
co nvec tor syste ms usin g a va lve nea r th e boil e r. supply
Today's hot wa ter and stea m syste ms are ofte n
A blower draws in air through the air intake (1) while a fuel
fu eled by natural gas. O lde r syste ms may use fue l oil. pump (2) maintains a constant supply of fuel oil. The mixture
Fue l oil syste ms require more frequ e nt ma in tena nce is ignited by a high-voltage spark as it enters the combustion
of th e filter (page 529) a nd bl owe r (page 530) . chamber (3) and heats water.
Hot-water radiators circulate heated Steam radiators operate at a Space-saving hot water convectors
water through pipes As it cools, water is higher temperature. Steam cools in the work on the same principle as radiators,
drawn back to the boiler for reheating. radiators, returns to a liquid state, and but use thin sheet-metal fins to transfer
then flows back to the boiler. heat to the air.

I Servicing the Oil Filter & Strainer
Replacing the oil filter is the best routine maintenance and remove the gasket and mesh strainer from the cover
you can do for your hot water or steam heating system. (photo 5). Clean the stra iner with solvent a nd a parts
Surround the base of the bo il er with a drop cloth brush. If it's badly worn or damaged, replace it. \I\1ipe
and newspaper. Shut off the power to the boiler at the the cover with a clean cloth. Place the clean stra iner
main service panel and at the boiler shutoff switch, or replacement strain er in the cover and install a new
usually located near the boiler. Then, c lose the fuel line gasket. Fasten the cover bolts in place. Restart the boiler.
supply va lve and wait 30 minutes for all parts to coo l.
\I\1earing disposable gloves, unscrew the top of the
filter cartr idge (photo I ). Remove the cartridge with
a twisting motion and turn it over to dump the old Tools & Materials ｾ＠
filter in to a plastic bag (photo 2). Remove the gasket
fTom the ca rtridge and wipe out the inside, first with a Open-end wrench set Replacement
cloth dipped in solvent, then with a dry cloth. In stall a Parts brush oil filter and
new filter and gasket (photo 3). Position the cartridge G loves cartridge gasket
under the cover and screw it back in place. Drop cloth Strainer gasket
Use an open-end wrench to remove the bolts from Solvent Cloth
the pump cover (photo 4). Leave the oil line attached,
Have a disposable plastic bag ready, and unscrew the top Twist the cartridge to remove it from the oil supply line.
of the filter cartridge. Ask your waste removal company for disposal instructions.
Wipe the edge of the cartridge, first Leave the pump cover attached to Remove the mesh strainer carefully.
with a solvent-dipped rag and then with the fuel line when you remove it. Even a heavily soiled one can often be
a dry rag. reused after a good cleaning.
HeaUng, Ventila tion & Air Conditi on ing • 529

I Cleaning & Lubricating the Blower
C lea n fu el a nd a reli able a ir supply are criti cal to your debri s fro m gettin g into the motor. Re move the plug
boil er's pe rform a nce. C lean t he air in ta ke on yo ur from t he ope ning or the lid from eac h c up , usin g a
boil e r eve lY month a nd lubrica te th e motor eve ry two wre nc h or sc rewdrive r, as required. Add a few drops of
month s during the h eatin g seaso n. lubri ca ting oil (ph oto 5).
Turn off th e power to the boil er. Brush a ny dust and If th e motor does n't have oil ports or c up s, it's
de bri s from th e air in take with a narrow, medium -bristle proba bl y a self-lubri catin g type (ph oto 6). C hec k your
bru sh (photo 1). Use an ope n-e nd wre nch or owne r's ma nu a l to be s ure.
screwdriver, as required, to loosen the transforme r. With
the tran sform er still attached, move it aside to reach the
blower fa n (ph oto 2) . Use the brush and a damp cloth
to re move dirt and de bri s from the fa n bl ades (ph oto 3). Tools & Materials ｾ＠
Most boile r bl owe rs have a port on top or c ups
at each e nd for adding lubri cating oil. C heck yo ur O pe n-end wre nch set Medium -bristl e brush
ow ner's manua l or co nsult th e ma nufac ture r on th e Sc rewdri ve rs D w p c loth
best lubri cat in g o il fo r yo ur blowe r. Before re mov in g (sta nda rd Boile r lubri ca ting oil
th e plu gs o r ope ning t he c ups, c lea n th e ou ts id e of t he and Phillips) C loth
motor with a da mp cloth (p hoto 4) to keep dirt a nd
To clean the air intake, use a brush If the transformer attaches to the The blades on most blower fans are
designed for cleaning the co ndensing blower housing with a hinge, simply thin and hard to reach, so use a long
coi ls on a refrigerator. swing it out of the way. If it comes brush ca refully: a bent fan blade makes
loose, be careful not to strain the much more noise than a dirty one.
wire connections.
To prevent dust or dirt from getting Add lubricating oil to the ports or If the motor doesn't have cups
in the motor while you add oil, clean off cups. The motor housing may indicate or openings for adding lubricating oil,
the surface with a damp cloth before what kind of oil to use. it's probably sealed and may not need
opening the ports or cups. extra lubrication.

I Draining & Filling a System
Sediment gradually accumulates in any water-based the gauge fitting and add rust inhibitor, avail able fmm
system, reducing the system's efficiency and damaging heating supp ly dealers (photo 3). Check the container
internal parts. Draining the boiler every season reduces for special instructions. Re install the va lve or gauge in
the accumu lation of sediment. Be aware that draining the top of the boiler, close all radiator bleed va lves, and
the system can take a long time , and the water often slowly reopen the water supply to the boiler.
has an unpleasant odor. This doesn't indicate a When the water pressure gauge reads 5 psi, bleed
pmblem. Dra in the system during warm weather, and the a ir fmm the rad iators on the first floor, then do the
open the windows and run a fan to reduce any odor. same on the upper fl oors. Let the boiler reach 20 psi
Start by shutting off the boiler and allowing the before you turn the power on (photo 4). Allow 12 hours
hot system to cool. Attach a garden hose to the drain for water to circulate fu lly, then bleed the radiators again .
at the bottom of the boiler (photo 1), and place the
othe r e nd in a floor drain or utility sink. Open a bl eed
valve on the highest radiator in the house (page 532). Tools & Materials ｾ＠
\ l\Th en water stops draining, open a bleed valve on
a rad iator closer to the boiler. When the flow stops, Open-end wrench set Plastic bucket
locate the va lve or gauge on top of the boiler, and Pipe wrenches Dmp cloth
remove it with a wrench (photo 2). Garden hose Boiler rust inhibi tor
Make sure the system is cool before you add water. Funne l
C lose the drain valve on the boiler. Insert a funnel into
Use a garden hose to drain water from the boiler. Keep the If the valve or gauge on top of the boiler is attached to
drain end of the hose lower than the drain cock on the boiler. a separate fitting. hold the fitting still with one wrench while
removing the valve or gauge with another.
using a funnel, add a recommended rust inhibitor to the The boiler should reach a pressure of 20 psi before you turn
boiler through the valve or gauge fitting. the power back on.
HeaUng , Ventilation & Air Conditioning • 531

I Bleeding a Hot water System
Hot wa te r sys te ms operate more g ui etly a nd effi c ie ntly O lder hot wa te r convec tor sys te ms may h ave
if yo u bl eed th e m of trapped air on ce a yea r. To bl eed bl eed va lves on or nea r the co nvectors. Bl eed these
a hot wa ter sys te m, the boile r mu st be on . Sta rt with co nvectors as you would rad iato rs.
th e ra di ator th at's highes t in th e house and fa rth est Mos t co nvec tor sys te ms today don't have bleed
from the b oile r. Place a c loth unde r th e bleed valve, valves . For these, locate the ho se bib whe re th e
a nd ope n th e valve slowly (ph oto I). C lose it as return wate r lin e reac hes the boil er. C lose the gate
soo n as wate r sguirts out. Some bl eed va lves have va lve be twee n t he bib a nd the boil e r. Attac h a short
knobs, whi ch ope n with a h alf turn ; othe rs mu st be sec ti on of hose to the bib and imme rse th e othe r
ope ned with a sc rewdrive r or valve key, ava ilable at e nd in a bucket of wate r. Ope n th e bib while addin g
hardwa re stores. water to th e boil er by ope nin g th e supply valve. The
Stea m radi ators have a utomat ic bl eed va lves . suppl y valve is located on th e s uppl y pipe, usuall y the
To c lea r a c logged va lve, c lose the shu to ff at th e s mall es t p ipe in the syste m . Flu sh th e syste m until
radi ator and let unit cool. U nsc rew the bl eed valve no air bubbles come out of th e h ose in th e bu cket
and clea r th e orifi ce with a fin e wire or needl e (photo 3) . Ope n th e ga te valve to bleed a ny re ma ining
(photo 2) . air. C lose the hose bib before restart in g the bo il e r.
If you can't find a key for you r If the radiator isn't heating, clea r A convector-based heating system
radiators, a local hardware store or the orifice with a fine wire or needle. is usual ly bled at the boiler by holding
home center may have a replacement. a hose underwater and flush ing the
system until there are no more air
bubbles coming from the hose.
Replace Radiator Control Valves ｾ＠
A rad iator control valve that won't operate should be

replaced. To replace the valve, you'll first need to drain the
system (page 531). Then use a pipe wrench to disconnect
1 2
the nut on the outlet side of the valve, then disconnect the
valve body from the supply pipe (photo 1, right). Thread
the ta ilpiece of the new valve into the radiator. Thread the
valve body onto the supply pipe. Make sure the arrow on
the valve body points in the direction of the water flow.
Thread the connecting nut on the tailpiece onto the outlet
side of the valve (photo 2). When you recharge the system, Use a pipe wrench to Fasten the valve to the
remove the control valve (left). supply tube, then secure
open the bleed valve on the radiator until a trickle of water
Thread the tailpiece of the new the connecting nut on the
runs out valve into the radiator (right) tai lpiece to the va lve.
532 • THE COI\ IPLETE PH OTO GU ID E TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

I Identifying & Repairing Exhaust Leaks
L eaks in the ex haust flue , around the burn er
mounting fl ange, combustion chamber cover plate,
or fire door are potential sources of carbo n monoxide.
Any leak that might a llow carbon monoxide to enter
you r home shou ld be repa ired immediately.
Holes and rusted portions are vis ibl e signs of a
damaged flu e. Small er leaks can be found by turning
on the burner and holding a li ghted cand le along
the joints in the flue and the seams of the burner
mounting flange, combustion chamber cover plate,
and fire door. The flame is drawn toward the joint or
seam when there is a leak.
\l\1ire brush Replacement

Putty knife flue sections
Long cand le Refractory
Power drill/screwdriver furnace cement Hold a lighted candle to the joints on the flue and seams
around the burner to find leaks.
I Sealing an Exhaust Leak

To sea l a leak at a seam, turn off the burner and let the located at the edges of the flange. Scrape away the
boil er coo l. T hen, use a wi re brush to remove any dirt decayed gasket and app ly t"efractory furnace cement at
or rust that has accumulated around the leak (photo 1). the edge . T hen, tighten the bolts.
Seal the leak by app lying refractory furnace To test your repair, turn on the boiler and hold a
ceme nt w ith a putty knife (photo 2). To stop a li ghted candle to the repair area. The candle flame
mounting flange leak, loosen the reta inin g bolts shou ld not flicker or waver.
Use a wire brush to clean off any rust or dirt deposits that With a putty knife, apply refractory furnace cement to seal
have accumulated on the surface. the leak.

I Repairing Electric Baseboard Heaters
B aseboard heaters are s impl e e lectr ica l units
cons ist in g of a heating e lement with attached
metal fins for transferring heat, and a limit
control- a switch that prevents the e lement from
overheating. To contro l t he temperature, some
models h ave a built-in thermostat; others are
controlled by a lin e vo ltage, or zone thermostat
(page 544) -a wa ll - mounted thermostat that is
wired directly to the heater.
Most heaters are wired to a 240-volt c ircuit, wh ich
means both the black and white circu it wires are hot
and carry voltage. Others use 120 volts and are wired
to a circuit or plugged into a standard receptacle. Th e
tests for all three types are nearly the same.
If the heater is wired to a household circu it, shut Tools & Materials ｾ＠
off the power at the main service panel, and test for
power before proceeding (left). Screwdriver Replacement parts
Note: Wiring for heaters and thermostats Mu lti meter Mask in g tape
varies. For the best- and safest- results, checlc the Vacuum or brush Pen
manufacturer's wiring instructions, and label all wires Need lenose pliers
before disconnecting.
I How to Test for Power Before Making Repairs

Turn off the power to the heater
at the main service panel. Remove the
heater's control box cover, and label the
black hot circuit wire. Insert one probe of
a neon circuit tester or multimeter into the
wire connector at the end of the circuit
wire, and touch the other probe to the
grounding screw on the heater casing.
Then, label the other circuit wire (with a
240-volt heater, this wire will also carry
voltage). Insert the tester probe into its
wire connector, and touch the other probe
to the grounding screw. Finally, insert one
probe into each of the wire connectors
you've just tested. If the tester shows
current for any of the tests, the power is
still on. Return to the service panel, and
turn off the correct circuit.

I How to Test & Service an Electric Baseboard Heater
Begin by testing the limit control. Shut off the power at To test the thermostat, start by labeling each thermostat
the main service panel, and confirm it is off by testing the lead and wire connected to it giving both wires the same
unit (page 534) Pull a limit control lead from its terminal. Set name. Designate circuit wires and their respective leads as
multimeter to test continuity Touch one probe to each limit HOT, and heater wires and their respective leads as UNIT
control terminal. If the tester shows continuity, it means the
limit control is working correctly, and you should move on to
testing the thermostat (step 2). If the tester does not show
continuity, remove the limit control and thermal conductor
from the unit and replace it with a duplicate part from
the manufacturer.
Disconnect wires, and remove thermostat. Turn Test the heating element. Find the heating element wire
thermostat dial to highest (hottest) setting. Set multimeter to that connects to a thermostat lead. (This wire may come from
test continuity. Touch one probe to a HOT wire lead and the the far end of the element.) Unscrew wire connector, and
other to each UNIT wire. The tester should indicate continuity separate wires. Set a multimeter to test continuity. Touch one
in one of the connections. Repeat test for the other HOT wire probe to the free heating element wire and the other to the
lead and each UNIT wire. If there is continuity for both HOT wire running from limit control to the other end of the element.
wires, move on to step 4. If the thermostat fails either test, Multitester should indicate continuity, meaning element
replace with duplicate part from manufacturer. is sound and the problem may lie in the circuit. If not the
element is bad, and the entire unit should be replaced

I Repairing Wall-mounted Electric Heaters
W al l-mounted e lectric heate rs a re in sta lled
betwee n stud s in an interior wall, typ ically in
small a reas, such as e ntryways or bathroom additions,
Household
electrical
current
where no other heat so urce is ava ilable, Th ey wmk
on the sa me princip les as e lectric base board heate rs Limit
controls
(pages 534 to 535 ), ge nerating hea t by runnin g
electrical c urrent through a heating e lement. Grill
\ l\Tal l-mounted heate rs often conta in a fa n to help
di str ibute heat to th e room. If the heater won't turn
on or shut off when th e room te mperature changes or
wh e n yo u turn th e co ntrol knob, minor repairs may
solve the proble m.
T he hea te r may have one or two limi t controls
nea r th e heating ele me nt. T hey are des igned to
shut off the heate r if it overheats. If there is a slight Wall can
burning sme ll and the heate r doesn't s hut itse lf off,
one or both limit contro ls may be fau lty. Ground switch!
thermostat
If the heater does n't res pond whe n adjustin g th e
co ntrol knob, the thermostat may be faulty. Starting
Inspect a wall-mounted heater before the start of the
at OFF, turn the the rm ostat knob, a nd li ste n for a
heating season. Dirt and dust can build up around the heating
click. If th e unit does n't c li ck, tes t th e the rmostat element resulting in a burning smell when the heater is back
for co ntinuity, using a multi -tester. Repla ce the in service. A careful cleaning with a soft-bristled brush is
thermostat if it is fa ulty. important for safe, reliable use.
I How to Remove the Heater and Check for Power
To remove and test the heater, shut off the power to the Insert one end of a neon circuit tester into the wire
heater at the main service panel. Remove the control knob. connector holding the black circuit wire, and touch the other
Loosen the mounting screws on the grill, and slide the heater probe to the grounding screw. Repeat, touching the probes to
out of the wall can. Lift the top out first disengaging the tabs at the white circuit connector and grounding screw. Finally, insert
the base. one probe into each of the wire connectors. The tester should
not glow for any of these tests. If it does, shut off the correct
circuit breaker on the main service panel. Repeat the tests until
the tester does not glow.

I How to Test & Replace a Limit Control
Shut off the power to the heater at the main service If the tester doesn't indicate continuity, remove the limit
panel, and check for power Use needle nose pliers to remove control and thermal conductor assembly from the heater.
a single limit control lead from its terminal on the back of the When purchasing a replacement, bring the old limit control
heater, and test for continuity with a multi meter. Touch one with you for identification. Install the new limit control, and
probe of the multimeter to each limit control terminal. Repeat reassemble the heater.
the test for the other limit control.
I How to Test & Replace a Thermostat
Shut off the power to the heater at the main service panel, If the multimeter doesn't indicate continuity, remove
and check for power. Disconnect one lead from the back of the other lead, and unscrew the control switch/thermostat
the control switch/thermostat unit by prying it loose with a unit from the base of the heater. Install an identical
needlenose pliers or unscrewing it With the multi meter set to replacement unit
test for continuity, place one probe on each terminal.

I Servicing Thermostats
thermostat is a temperature-sensitive switch sta nd a rd low-vo ltage or lin e-vo ltage thermostats
A that automatically controls home heating and
air-conditioning syste ms. 111ere are two types of thermo-
with programmable setback thermostats. Th ese
programmable thermostats can cut e nergy use by up
stats used to control heating and air-conditioning systems. to 35%.
Low-voltage thermostats contro l whole- hou se heati ng and \!\Th en bu yin g a new thermostat, ma ke su re
ai r conditioning from one central location. Line-voltage the new unit is co mpatible with yo ur h eating/
thermostats are used in zo ne heating systems, whe re eac h air-cond itioning syste m. For reference, take along th e
room has its own heating unit and thermostat. brand name and mode l number of the old thermostat
A low-vo ltage t he rmostat is powered by a and of your heating/ai r- con ditioning units. When
tra nsform e r that reduces 120-volt c urre nt to about buying a new low-vo ltage transformer, choose a
24 volts. A low-vo ltage thermostat is very durable, but replacement with voltage an d amperage ratings that
failures ca n occur if wire connections become loose match th e old th ermostat.
or dirty, if the rmostat parts become corroded , or if a
tra nsform er wea rs out. Some thermostat syste ms have
two transformers. One transformer co ntrol s the heatin g
unit, and the other co ntrol s the a ir-conditionin g unit. Tools & Materials ｾ＠
Lin e-voltage thermostats are powered by the
same c ircuit as the h eating unit, usuall y a 240-volt Soft-b ri stled Combin ation tool
ci rc uit. Always make su re to turn off the power before paint brush Continuity tester
serv icing a line-vo ltage thermostat. M ulti meter, Masking tape
A thermostat ca n be replaced in about one sc rewdriver Short piece of wire
h our. Many homeowners choose to replace
Electronic programmable thermostats can be set to make up to four temperature changes each day. They are available in
low-voltage designs (right) for central heating/cooling systems and in line-voltage designs (left) for electric baseboard heating Most
electronic programmable thermostats have an internal battery that saves the program in case of a power failure.

low-voltage thermostat system has a transformer that is either connected to an electrical junction box or mounted inside a
furnace access panel. Very thin wires (18 to 22 gauge) send current to the thermostat The thermostat constantly monitors room
temperatures, and sends electrical signals to the heating/cooling unit through additional wires. The number of wires connected
to the thermostat varies from two to six, depending on the type of heating/air conditioning system. In the common four-wire
system shown above, power is supplied to the thermostat through a single wire attached to screw terminal R. Wires attached to
other screw terminals relay signals to the furnace heating unit, the air-conditioning unit, and the blower unit. Before removing a
thermostat, make sure to label each wire to identify its screw terminal location.
ENCORE
line-voltage thermostat for 240-volt baseboard heating unit usually has four wire leads, although some models have only two
leads. On a four-wire thermostat, the two red wire leads (sometimes marked LINE or L) are attached to the two hot feed wires
bringing power into the box from the service panel. The black wire leads (sometimes marked LOAD) are connected to the circuit
wires that carry power to the heating unit
HeaUng, Ventilation & Air C onditioning • 539

I How to Inspect & Test a Low-voltage Thermostat System
1 2 3 Mounting
screws
Coverplate
ｾＯ＠
Turn off power to the heating/ Clean dust from the thermostat parts Remove the thermostat body by
air-conditioning system at the using a small, soft-bristled paint brush. loosening the mounting screws with
main service panel. Remove the a screwdriver.
thermostat coverplate.
Thermostat
base
Inspect the wire connections on the thermostat base. Locate the low-voltage transformer that powers the
Reattach any loose wires. If wires are broken or corroded, thermostat. This transformer usually is located near the
they should be clipped, stripped, and reattached to the heating/air-conditioning system or inside a furnace access
screw terminals. panel. Tighten any loose wire connections.

Set a multimeter to the 50-volt (AC) range. Turn on power to Touch one probe of multimeter to each of the low-voltage
the heating/air-conditioning system at the main service panel. screw terminals. If tester does not detect current, then the
transformer is defective and must be replaced (page 543).
8 9
Turn on power to heating system. Set thermostat control Strip 'j," from each end of a short piece of insulated wire.
levers to AUTO and HEAT. Touch one end of the wire to terminal marked W and the other
end to terminal marked R. If heating system begins to run, then
the thermostat is faulty and must be replaced (page 542)

I How to Install a Programmable Low-voltage Thermostat
Turn off power to the heating! Unscrew the thermostat label the low-voltage wires to
air-conditioning system at the mounting screws, and remove the identify their screw terminal locations,
main service panel. Remove the thermostat body. using masking tape. Disconnect all
thermostat coverplate. low-voltage wires.
Remove the thermostat base by loosening the mounting Thread the low-voltage wires through base of new
screws. Tape the wires against the wall to make sure they do thermostat. Mount the thermostat base on the wall, using the
not fall into the wall cavity. screws included with the thermostat.
Thermostat
body
Connect the low-voltage wires to the screw terminals on Install batteries in thermostat body, then attach the
the thermostat base. Use the manufacturer's connection chart body to thermostat base. Turn on power, and program the
as a guide. thermostat as desired.

I How to Replace a Low-voltage Transformer
Turn off power to the heating/air-conditioning system at the Carefully remove the wire connector joining the black
main service panel. Remove the coverplate on the transformer circuit wire to the transformer lead. Be careful not to touch
electrical box. bare wires.
Test for power by touching one probe of neon circuit Disconnect the grounding wires inside the box, then
tester to grounded metal box and other probe to exposed disconnect low-voltage wires attached to the screw terminals
wires. Remove wire connector from white wires and repeat on the transformer. Unscrew the transformer mounting
test. Tester should not glow for either test. If it does, power bracket inside the box, and remove transformer. Purchase
is still entering box. Return to service panel, and turn off a new transformer with the same voltage rating as the
correct circuit. old transformer.
Attach new transformer to electrical box . Reconnect Connect the low-voltage wires to the transformer, and
circuit wires to transformer leads. Connect circuit grounding reattach the electrical box coverplate. Turn on the power at the
wires to transformer grounding lead. main service panel.

I How to Test & Replace a Line-voltage Thermostat
Turn off power to the heating unit at the main service Loosen the thermostat mounting screws, and carefully
panel. Remove the thermostat coverplate. pull the thermostat from the electrical box.
Unscrew one wire connector. Test for power by touching Identify the two circuit wires that are attached to the
one probe of neon circuit tester to grounded metal box and thermostat leads marked LINE. The circuit wires attached to
touching other probe to exposed wires. Tester should not the LINE leads bring power into the box and are known as feed
glow. Repeat test with other wire connections. Tester should wires. Label the feed wires with masking tape, then disconnect
not glow. If it does, then power is still entering box. Return to all wires.
service panel, and turn off correct circuit

Test thermostat by attaching the clip of a continuity tester Replace a faulty thermostat with a new thermostat that
to one of the two leads marked LINE then touching probe has the same voltage and amperage ratings as the old one.
to wire lead marked LOAD on same side of thermostat. Turn Connect the new thermostat by attaching the circuit feed
temperature dial from HIGH to LOW. Tester should glow in both wires to the wire leads marked LINE, using wire connectors.
positions. Repeat test with other pair of wire leads. If tester
does not glow fo r both positions, thermostat is faulty and must
be replaced.
Connect the remaining circuit wires to the thermostat Carefully fold the wires inside the electrical box, then
leads marked LOAD, using wire connectors. Connect the attach the thermostat mounting screws and the coverplate.
grounding wires together with a wire connector. Turn on the power at the main service panel. If new thermostat
is programmable, set the program as desired.

I Installing a Ridge Vent
f yo u need atti c ve ntil ation , in sta llin g a co ntinuou s
I ridge ve nt will ge t the job don e . S ince they're
in stalled along th e e ntire ridge of the roof, th ey
be placed in seve ra l locat ion s across the roof. It a lso
saves yo u from hav ing to make num erous c uts in yo ur
fini shed roof, which ca n di sturb surrounding shingles.
provide an eve n flow of a ir alon g the entire unde rside
of the roof dec king. Co mbin ed w ith co ntinuou s
soffit vents, thi s is the most e ffec ti ve type of
ve ntilati on system. Tools & Materials ｾ＠
Since the ve nts a re in stalled alon g th e ridge,
th ey' re pract ica ll y invis ible , e limin at ing a ny di sruption s Hammer Flat pry bar
to th e roof. Other vent types, such as roof lou vers and C irc ul a r saw Rid ge ve nts
turbin es, often distract from th e roof's aesthet ic s . Tape meas ure I Yz" roofing na il s
In stalling one continuous ridge ve nt is quicke r a nd Chalk line
eas ie r than installin g oth er types of vents th at need to
Continuous ridge vents work in conjunction with the soffits to allow airflow under the roof decking Installed at the roof peak
and covered with cap shingles, ridge vents are less conspicuous than other roof vents.

I How to Install a Ridge vent
Remove the ridge caps, using a Set the blade depth of a circular saw Measure down from the peak half
flat pry bar. Measure down from the to cut the sheathing, but not the rafters. the width of the ridge vent, and make a
peak the width of the manufacturer's Cut along each chalk line, staying 12" mark on both ends of the roof. Snap a
recommended opening, and mark from the edges of the roof. Remove the line between the marks. Do this on both
each end of the roof. snap a chalk line cut sheathing, using a pry bar. sides of the peak.
between the marks. Repeat for the
other side of the peak. Remove any
nails in your path.
Center the ridge vent over the peak, Butt sections of ridge vents together Place ridge cap shingles over the
aligning the edges with the chalk lines. and nail the ends. Install vents across ridge vents. Nail them with two 1y,"
Install using roofing nails that are long the entire peak, including the 12" roofing nails per cap. overlap the caps
enough to penetrate the roof sheathing. sections at each end of the roof that as you would on a normal ridge. If the
Tip: If a chimney extends through the were not cut away caps you removed in step 1 are still
peak, leave 12" of sheathing around in good shape, you can reuse them .
the chimney Otherwise, use new ones.

I Installing New Vents
If YO;I need more ventilation for your attic, but you
don t want to replace your entire soffits or embark
on a roofing project, you can add vents to your existing
wood soffits and roof.
Th is project shows how to add soffit vents for
air intake, and how to add roof vents for air outtake.
These additional vents increase the airflow under your
roof, helping to eliminate heat buildup in your attic.
Hammer Rubber-gasket nails

Pry bar Roof cement
Chalk line Stainless
Cau lk gun stee l screws
Tape measure Soffit vent covers
Dril l Roof vents
Jigsaw Si liconized
Utility knife acryli c cau lk
C halk line Screwdriver Adding vents to wood soffits and the roof can increase
airflow in the attic.
I How to Install New vents

2
Examine the eaves area from inside your attic to make Draw a cutout for the soffit vent cover on the soffit panel.
sure there is nothing obstructing air flow from the soffits. If Center the vents between the fascia and the side of the house.
insulation is blocking the air passage, install insulation baffles. The cover outline should be '/,' smaller on all sides than the
soffit vent cover.

Drill a starter hole, then cut the vent Caulk the flanges of the vent cover. Mark the location for the roof vent by
openings with a jigsaw Screw the vent cover to the soffit driving a nail through the roof sheathing.
Tip: For visual effect, install new vent Center the nail between rafters, 16" to
covers with the louvers pointing in the 24" from the ridge pole.
same direction.
Center a vent cover over the nail Apply roof cement to the underside Secure the roof vent to the sheathing
on the outside of the roof. Outline the of the base flange. Set the vent cover with rubber-gasket nails on all sides
base flange of the vent cover on the in position, slipping the flange under of the flange. Tack down any loose
shingles, then remove shingles in an the shingles, centered over the shingles. Do not nail through the flange
area 2" inside the outline. Mark the vent-hole cutout when attaching shingles.
roof vent hole, using the marker nail
as a centerpoint Cut the hole, using a
reciprocating saw or jigsaw

I Reference Charts
Metric Conversions
To Convert: To: Multiply by: To Convert: To: Multiply by:
Inches Millimeters 25.4 Millimeters Inches 0.039
Inches Centimeters 25.4 Centimeters Inches 0.394
Feet Meters 0.305 Meters Feet 3.28
,Yards Meters 0.914 Meters Yards 109
Square inches Square centimeters 6.45 ,Square centimeters Square inches 0.155
,Square feet Square meters 0.093 Square meters Square feet 10.8
S uare meters 0.836 1.2
Ounces Milliliters 30.0 Ounces .033
Pints (U.S.) liters 0.473 (Imp. 0.568 ) liters Pints (U.S.) 2.114 (Imp. 1.76)
i
Quarts (US.) liters 0.946 (Imp. 1136) Liters Quarts (US.) 1.057 (Imp. 088)
Gallons (U.S.) liters 3.785 (Imp. 4.546 ) liters Gallons (U.S.) 0.264 (Imp. 0.22 )
"Ounces Grams 28.4 IGrams Ounces 0.035
Pounds Kilograms 0.454 ｋｩｬｯｧｾｲ｡ｾｭｳｾ＠ ______ｾ＠ Pounds ________ｾ＠ 2.2 __________
Converting Temperatures Lumber Dimensions

Nominal - U.S. Actual - U.S. (in inches) Metric
Convert degrees Fahrenheit (F) to degrees Celsius (0 byfollowing this simple lx2 3, x I', 19 x 38 mm
formula: Subtract 32 from the Fahrenheit temperature reading. Then, multiply that l x3 3, x 2', 19 x 64 mm
number by 5 9. For example, 77 F- 32 = 45. 45 x 59 = 25 C. lx4 3, x 3', 19 x 89 mm
To convert degrees Celsius to degrees Fahrenheit, multiply the Celsius temperature l x5 3, x 4', 19 x 114 mm i
reoding by 9 I. Then, odd 32. For example, 25 Cx 91 = 45.45 + 32 = 77 F. l x6 3, x 5', 19 x 140 mm
lx7 3, x 6', 19x159mm
l x8 3, x 7', 19 x 184 mm
Fahrenheit Celsius
1 x 10 3, X 9', 19 x 235 mm
51" W 1 x 12 3, x 11 ' , 19 x 286 mm
50°
45°
10° 1', x 4 1 X 3', 25 x 89 mm I
40° 5° 1', x 6 1 X 5', 25 x 140 mm
W Freezing 0° 1', x 8 1 X 7', 25 x 184 mm
30° 1', x 10 1 X 9', 25 x 235 mm
W _5°
20° -10° 1', x 12 1 x 11 ', 25 x 286 mm I
W I', x 4 1', X 3', 32 x 89 mm
10°
5°
-W
I', x 6 1', X 5', 32 x 140 mm I
0° I', x 8 1', X 7', 32 x 184 mm
I', x 10 1', X 9' , 32 x 235 mm
I', x 12 l ', x 11 ', 32 x 286 mm
Metric Plywood Panels
Metric plywood panels are commonly available in two sizes: 1,200 mm x 2,400
I 2x 4 I', X 3', 38 x 89 mm I
2x 6 1', X 5', 38 x 140 mm

mm and 1,220 mm x 2,400 mm, which is roughly equivalent to a 4 x 8-ft. sheet. [ 2x 8 I', X 7', 38 x 184 mm !
Standard and Select sheathing panels come in standard thicknesses, while Sanded 2 x 10 I', X 9', 38 x 235 mm
grade panels are available in special thicknesses. 2 x 12 I', x II ', 38 x 286 mm
Standard Sheathing Grade Sanded Grade 3x6 2', x 5', 64 x 140 mm
7.5 mm (5" in.) 6 mm (' 11 in. ) 4x4 3', x 3', 89 x 89 mm
9.5 mm (3. in.) 8 mm (5" in.) 4x6 3', x 5', 89 x 140 mm
12.5 mm (', in.) 11 mm (,,, in. )
15.5 mm (5. in. ) 14 mm (' " in.)
18.5 mm (3, in. ) 17 mm (' 3 in. )
Liquid Measurement Equivalents
20.5 mm (13" in. ) 19 mm (3, in.)
1 Pint = 16 Fluid Ounces = 2 Cu s
22.5 mm (' • in.) 21 mm (13" in. )
1 Quart = 32 Fluid Ounces = 2 Pints
25.5 mm (1 in. ) 24 mm ('5" in.)
1 Gallon = 128 Fluid Ounces = 4 Quarts

Drill Bit Guide
Twist (arbide·tipped Glass Spade Adjustable Hale
Bit Masonry & Tile Bit (aunterbare Saw
-.
t ,
Nails
Nail lengths are identified by numbers Iram 4 to 60 followed by the leller "d," which stands for "penny." For general framing and repair work, use common or box nails. (ammon
nails are best suited to framing work where strength is important. Box nails are smaller in diameter than common nails, which makes them easier to drive and less likely to split wood.
Use box nails for light work and thin materials. Most common and box nails have a cement or vinyl coating that imp raves their holding power.
lbs. mm in.
r\
f 20d 102 mm 4"
-<
E 16d 89 mm 3'//'
t(
ｾＮ＾＠ 10d 76 mm 3"
K
.?/ 8d 64 mm 2'//'
F> 6d 51 mm 2"
K
ｾ＾＠ 5d 44 mm 1%"
Il
4d 38 mm 1'//'
1#
counterbore. Shank & Pilot Hole Diameters

Screw Counterbore Diameter for Clearance Hole for Pilot Hole Diameter
Size Screw Head (in inches) Screw Shank (in inches) Hard Wood (in inches) Soft Wood (in inches)
#1 .146 (%.) 'I. • %. 'I"
#2 'I. %, l'" 'I"
#3 'I. '/6' '116 %.
[ #4 'I. 'I. 'I" V"
#5 'I. 'I. 'I.. 1/i6
#6 S/i6 %. V" 'I..
#7 5/i6 5/31 V" 1'6.
#8 % "/6• 1/. %,
#9 % 1'1" 1/. %,
#10 % 3/16 1/. 1'6 .
#11 '11 3/16 1'31 %.
#12 '11 ,/" %. 'I.
Reference Charts • 551

I Index
A repairing leaking, 360-361 C
ABS (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene) repairing pressure-assisted Cabinets, painting, 94-95
plastic pipes toilets, 363-364 Cable problems & solutions, 433-435
overview of, 286 repairing running Carbon monoxide alarms,
replacing leaky cast iron pipes adjusting, cleaning or installing, 510-511
with,308 installing flush valve, 359 Carpet
See a/so Rigid plastic pipes adjusting/repairing gluing loose seams, 41
Accessibility and thresholds, 121 ballcocks, 356-358 patching, 27, 40, 42-43
Acid etching concrete floors, 45-48 overview of, 355 restretching loose carpet, 41
Aerators, repairing, 340 replacing, 364-367 soot damage, 40
Alarms, installing carbon monoxide tubs Cartridge faucets
& heat, 510-511 clearing clogged drains, 376-377 overview of, 322, 323
Alligatoring paint, 196 installing flexible shower repairing, 326-327, 348-349
Aluminum end caps, replacing, 191 adapters, 351 Cartridge fuses, 424, 425
Aluminum siding, patching, 191 replacing spouts, 347 Casement windows
Aluminum wiring, 432 tub & shower faucets (combination) cleaning & lubricating cranks, 125
Asphalt driveways, repairing, Single-handle, 343, 348-349 repairing crank assembly, 125
272-275 three-handle, 342, 344-345 weatherizing, 112
Asphalt roof shingles, replacing, 172 two-handle, 343, 346-347 Cast iron pipes
Attics, ventilating, 546-549 Bifold doors overview of, 308
Augers installing, 164-165 removing & replacing section of,
using closet to clear toilets, 374 maintaining, 107 309-311
using hand Black iron, 304 Caulking
to clear drain lines, 368, 372-373 Blistering paint, 196, 197 cracks in door panels, 111
to clear shower drains, 375 Blocks gaps between concrete and
using power, 383 cleaning & painting, 260-261 masonry, 222
identifying problems, 252-253 matching to surface, 108
B
refacing damaged, 258 overview of, 109
Ballcocks, adjusting & repairing, 357
reinforcing section of refaced, 259 recaulking wall tile, 61
Ball-type faucets
repairing tuck-point mortar joints, when installing replacement
overview of, 322, 323
254-255 windows, 152, 153
repairing, 324-325
Blow bags, using, 368, 379 Ceiling fans, repairing, 492-493
Baseboards, installing, 17
Board & batten siding Ceilings
Basement windows, well covers, 108
removing, 187 painting, 92-93
Bathrooms
replacing, 192 raising sagging wallboard, 67
clearing clogged drum traps, 378
Brass valves, soldering, 298 removing popcorn texture, 66
installing integral vanity tops &
cabinets, 318-319 Brick work repairing, water damaged, 68-69
cleaning & painting, 260-261 replacing acoustical tiles, 67
showers
identifying problems, 252-253 Ceramic tiles
clearing clogged drains, 375
molding replacing floor, 38-39
showerheads
removing, 187 wall
cleaning & repairing, 350
replacing, 195 recaulking joints, 61
installing flexible adapters, 351
repairing tuck-point mortar joints, regrouti ng, 60
sinks
254-255 removing, 71
clearing clogged, 368-370
replacing damaged brick(s), replacing accessories on, 62
installing pedestal, 316-317
256-257 replacing broken tiles, 63
repairing leaky strainers, 371
Brushes for painting Chandeliers, repairing, 488-489
replacing faucets, 334-337
cleaning, 205 Childproofing electrical
toilets
selecting, 203 receptacles, 451
adjusting handle & lift chain
using, 87, 203-206 Chimney caps, repairing &
(or lift wires), 354
Bubbles replacing, 182-183
clearing clogged, 374
repairing in wallcovering, 64 Circuit breakers, 424, 425
common problems, 352, 354
under vinyl sheet floors, 11 Circuits, overview of, 420-421
overview of, 353
Bulging joists, repairing, 12
552 • T HE COI\ IPLETE PHOTO GUID E TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

Closet augers, using to clear D Drain system
toilets, 374 Decks clearing clogged
Compression faucets maintaining older, 276 drum traps, 378
overview of, 322, 323, 328 renewing, 276, 277 floor drains, 379, 382-385
repairing, 328-331 repairing damaged decking showers, 375
repairing tub & shower, 344-345 & joists, 278-280 sinks, 368-370
Compression fittings, using, 300-301 replacing posts, 280-281 tubs, 376-377
Concrete surfaces Diaphragm ballcocks, repairing, 357 clearing lines with hand augers,
blocks Dimmer switches, installing, 478-479 372-373
cleaning & painting, 260-261 Disc faucets DWV copper pipes and, 292
identifying problems, 252-253 overview of, 322, 323 overview of, 284
refacing damaged, 258 repairing, 332-333 Driveways, repairing asphalt,
reinforcing section of Dishwashers, maintaining, 414-415 272-275
refaced, 259 Doorbells, repairing & replacing, Drop-in kitchen sinks, installing,
repairing tuck-point mortar 506-509 320-321
joints, 254-255 Doors Dry-stone walls, rebuilding section,
common problems, 218-219 accessibility and thresholds, 121 265
leveling floors, 223 freeing sticking, 102, 106 DWV copper pipes, 292
paint for disguising repairs, 217 installing E
painting floors, 249-251 bifold, 164-165 Efflorescence on exterior masonry, 197
patching prehung interior, 150-151 Electrical boxes
floors, 223 storm, 154-155 described, 419
large areas, 220-221 maintaining problems and solutions, 437-439
small areas, 220, 222 sliding or bifold, 107 Electrical system
steps, 228-229 storm, 131 cable problems & solutions,
rebuilding steps, 234-239 painting, 91 433-435
repairing exterior, 207, 211 circuit breakers, 424, 425
cracks, 224-226 using spraying equipment, 211 circuits, overview of, 420-421
gaps around masonry, 222 removing, 103, 148-149 cord problems and solutions,
masonry veneer, 231 repairing 440-441
overview of, 216 common problems, 102 electrical box problems and
products for, 217 latch bolt problems, 102, 104 solutions, 437-439
shaped,230 warped,105 grounding
steps, 227-229 replacing jumper wires, 433
tips for, 217 exterior, 160-163 plastic pipes, 286
resurfacing hanging new exterior in old installing
patio slabs, 240-243 jamb,156-159 carbon monoxide & heat
walkways, 232-233 thresholds, 118-121 alarms, 510-511
sealing floors, 44-49, 244-248 securing electrical boxes, 504-505
Continuity testing of wall switches, by installing dead bolt lock, 141 overviewof,416-417
470-473 by installing security box parts of, 417-419
Copper pipes strike, 140 pilot-light switches, 467
cutting, 294, 295 overview of, 136 receptacles
fitting methods for, 292 sliding, 138
accessories for, 451
flexible, 292 tips for, 139-140 child proofing electrical, 451
joining with shortening interior
common problems and
compreSSion union fittings, 301 hollow-core, 117 solutions, 442-443, 445
flare union fittings, 302-303 overview of, 114 high-voltage, 450
soldering, 294, 296-298 solid wood, 115-116 installing GFCI receptacles,
taking apart soldered joints, 299 tightening loose hinge plates, 456-459
types of, 292 102, 103 older, 449
working with, 293 weatherizing, 108, 109-110 overview of, 444, 445
CPVC (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride) thresholds, 109, 120 repairing & replacing, 454-455
plastic pipes Double-hung windows testing for power, grounding &
overview of, 286, 287 installing new sashes, 132-135 polarity, 452-453
See a/so Rigid plastic pipes replacing broken sash cords, 124 types of, 448
Cracked joists, repairing, 13 Drain cleaners, caution about, 368 repairing & replacing
Index • 553
doorbells, 506-509 tips for, 139-140 F
lamp sockets, 502-503 weatherizing, 108, 109-110, 120 Fans, repairing ceiling, 492-493
phone jacks, 512-515 Exterior surfaces Fascia
replacing plugs, 500-501 brick work painting, 205
safety and, 422-423, 451 cleaning & painting, 260-261 repairing roof, 176
service panel problems and identifying problems, 252- 253 Faucets
solutions, 431-432 repairing tuck-point mortar hookup variations, 335
wall switches joints, 254-255 overview of, 322-323
common problems & solutions, replacing damaged brick(s), repairing
442-443,460-461 256-257 ball-type, 324-325
double switches, 466, 473 common paint problems & cartridge, 326-327
electronic, 473 solutions, 196-197 compression, 328-331
four-way switches, 464, 471, 477 masonry disc, 332-333
installing dimmer switches, caulking gaps between specialty tools for, 323
478-479 concrete and, 222 replacing sink, 334-337
overview of, 462 efflorescence on exterior, 197 tub & shower (combination)
pilot-light, 472 preparing for painting, 201 single-handle, 343, 348-349
repairing & replacing, 474-477 pressure washing, 270-271 three-handle, 342, 344-345
single-pole switches, 463, 470, repairing tWO-handle, 343, 346- 347
474-475 fireboxes, 262-263 Fireboxes, repairing, 262-263
specialty switches, 468-469 veneer, 231 Fittings
switch/receptacle mildew on, 197 for cast iron pipes, 308
combinations, 467, 473 painting for copper pipes, 292
testing for continuity, 470-473 applying paint, 203-206 for galvanized iron pipes, 304,
three-way switches, 464, 471,476 applying primer, 202-203 305-307
time-delay, 473 fascia & soffits, 205 for plastic pipes, 287, 288
timers, 472 preparation, 199-200 using compression, 300- 301
wire connections problems and preparation of metal and using flare, 302-303
solutions, 436-437 masonry, 201 Flagstone, replacing damaged
wiring removing old paint, 198 stones, 268-269
configurations, 446-447 siding, 206 Flare fittings, using, 302-303
dealing with aluminum, 432 trim, 205, 207 Float cup ballcocks, repairing, 357
evaluating old, 426-429 replacing wall sheathing, Floating floors, 31
See a/so Light fixtu res 188-189 Floorboards, replacing damaged,
Electric heaters siding 20-23
repairing baseboard, 534- 535 common problems, 185 Floor drains, clearing clogged, 379
repairing wall-mounted, 537-538 overview of, 184, 190 Floors
Electric meter, described, 418 painting, 206, 208-211 bubbles under vinyl, 11
Electric water heaters patching aluminum, 191 buckling in hardwood, 11
repairing, 387, 390-391 removing, 186-187 gluing loose carpet seams, 41
replacing 220/ 240-volt, 392, replacing installing baseboards, 17
398- 399 aluminum end caps, 191 leveling concrete, 223
Electronic motion-sensor board & batten, 192 painting concrete, 249-251
switches, 461 lap, 193 patching
Electronic switches, 473 wall sheathing, 188- 189 carpet,27,40,42-43
Entry doors, replacing, 160-163 wood shakes & shingles, concrete, 223
Exterior doors 192 hardwood,19
hanging new in old jamb, 156-159 staining, 212-213 small holes in wood, 25
painting, 207, 211 trim vinyl,27
replacing, 160-163 inspecting, 184 repairing
replacing thresholds, 118-121 painting, 205, 207 eliminating squeaks, 14-15
securing preparing for painting, 200 evaluating before, 11
by installing dead bolt locks, 141 removing brick molding, 187 hardwood, 18-19
by installing security box repairing, 194 joists, 12-13
strike, 140 replacing brick molding, 195 splinters in wood, 24
overview of, 136 See a/so Exterior doors vinyl
sliding, 138 Eyes, protecting, 33, 78 resilient tile, 37
554 • T HE CO I\ IPLETE PHOTO GU ID E TO HOI\ IE BEPAIB

sheet vinyl, 35-36 jumper wires, 433 maintaining
replacing plastic pipes, 286 bleeding, 532
ceramic tiles, 38-39 Grounding wire, described, 418 cleaning & lubricating blowers, 530
floorboards, 20-23 Gutters draining & filling system, 531
laminate parquet tiles, overview of, 178 oil filters & strainers, 529
32-33 patching leaks, 179 overview of, 528
laminate planks, 28-30 patching leaks in joints, 180 Hubbed fittings, 308
laminate planks using patching metal, 180
floating floors, 31 rehanging sagging, 179
Ice dams, 168
sections of wood, 26-27 replacing sections of metal, 181
Incandescent light fixtures
trim moldings, 16-17 unclogging, 179
overview of, 480
restretching loose carpet, 41
H problems and solutions, 481
sealing concrete, 44-49, 244-248
Hand augers, using replacing all or parts of, 482-484
typical wood-frame, 10
on drain lines, 368, 372-373 Interior doors
Fluorescent lights
on showers, 375 installing prehung, 150-151
overview of, 494
Hardwood floors shortening
problems and solutions, 495
buckling in, 11 hollow-core, 117
replacing
cleaning & renewing, 18 overview of, 114
ballasts, 498
patching scratches & small holes, 19 solid wood, 115-116
fixtu res, 499
removing stains, 19
sockets, 497 J
Heat alarms, installing, 510-511
tubes, 496 Joists
Heating systems
Food disposers repairing, 12-13
gas forced-air
installing, 410-413 repairing decking, 278-280
balancing, 518
overview of, 408-409 Jumper wires, grounding, 433
cleaning burners, 523
Frost-free sillcocks, installing, 315 inspecting burner flame, 522 K
Fuses, 424-425 Kitchens
maintaining
G blower motors, 520 clearing clogged sinks, 368-370
Galvanized iron pipes electronic ignition installing
overview of, 304 furnaces, 524 drop-in sinks, 320-321
removing & replacing, 305-307 high-efficiency, 525 food disposers, 408-413
Garage doors humidifiers, 526-527 pedestal sinks, 316-317
securing, 136 overviewof,519 maintaining dishwashers, 414-415
tuning up, 142-147 pilot & thermocouple, repairing leaky strainers, 371
Gas forced-air heating systems 521-522 replacing sink faucets, 334-337
balancing, 518 overview of, 518 sprayers on sinks
cleaning burners, 523 replacing air filters, 519 attaching, 337
inspecting burner flame, 522 identifying exhaust leaks, 533 repairing diverter valves, 342
maintaining repairing replacing hoses, 342
blower motors, 520 electric baseboard heaters, Knee kickers, 42
electronic ignition furnaces, 524 534-535 L
high-efficiency, 525 electric wall-mounted heaters, Ladders, 76-77
humidifiers, 526-527 537-538 Laminate floors
overview of, 519 exhaust leaks, 533 composition of, 28
pilot & thermocouple, 521-522 thermostats replacing
overview of, 518 replacing line-voltage, 544-545 parquet tiles, 32-33
replacing air filters, 519 replacing low-voltage, 540-543 planks, 28-30
Gas water heaters types of, 538-539 using floating floors, 31
overview of, 386 See a/so Hot water & steam Lap siding
repairing, 387, 388-389 heating systems removing, 187
replacing, 392, 393-397 Hinge plates on doors replacing, 193
Gate valves, 313 security and, 139 Latchbolts on doors, repairing
GFCI (ground-fault circuit interrupter) tightening loose, 102, 103 common problems, 102, 104
receptacles, installing, 456-459 Hollow-core interior doors, Lead paint, 70
Globe valves, 313 shortening, 117 Leaks
Grounding Hose bibs, repairing leaky, 312 locating & evaluating roof, 170
installing GFCI receptacles, 456-459 Hot water & steam heating systems patching gutter, 179
Index • 555
repairing gutter joints, 180 for disguising concrete repairs, 217 Pipes
Light fixtures old,70 cast iron
fluorescent safety, 78-79 overview of. 308
overview of, 494 Painting removing & replacing section
problems and solutions, 495 bricks & blocks, 260-261 of. 309-311
replacing brushes for copper
ballasts, 498 cleaning, 205 cutting, 294, 295
fixtures, 499 selecting, 203 fitting methods for, 292
sockets, 497 using, 87, 203-206 flexible, 292
tubes, 496 cabinets, 94-95 joining with
incandescent ceilings, 92-93 compression union
overview of, 480 concrete floors, 249-251 fitti ngs, 301
problems and solutions, 481 to disguise repairs on concrete flare union fittings, 302-303
replacing all or parts of, 482-484 surfaces, 217 soldering, 294, 296-298
repairing chandeliers, 488-489 doors, 90 taking apart soldered joints, 299
repairing & replacing recessed exterior surfaces types of, 292
lighting, 485-487 applying paint, 203-206 working with, 293
repairing track, 490-491 applying primer, 202-203 galvanized iron
Locks doors, 207, 211 overview of, 304
on doors, 136, 139-141 fascia & soffits, 205 removing & replacing, 305-307
on windows, 137-138 with paint-spraying equipment, plastic
Log cabin siding, staining, 212 208-211 fittings for, 287
preparation, 199-200 grade stamps, 287
M
Macerating toilets, 367 preparation of metal and grounding, 286
masonry, 201 overview of, 286
Main service panel, described, 418
Masonry removing old paint, 198 rigid
siding, 206 cutting, 288-289
bricks and blocks
cleaning & painting, 260-261 stucco, 206 replacing leaky cast iron
identifying problems, 252-253 trim, 205, 207 pipes With, 308
repairing tuck-point mortar windows, 207 solvent-gluing, 290-291
joints, 254-255 primers & sealers, 81, 84-85 types of, 286, 287
replacing damaged brick(s), rollers for quieting noisy, 406-407
cleaning, 205 repairing burst or frozen, 404-405
256-257
caulking gaps between concrete selecting, 203 Plaster
and,222 using, 86, 204 removing, 73
room preparation, 82-83 repairing
efflorescence on exterior, 197
preparing for painting, 201 spraying equipment for, 208-211 cracks, 57
pressure washing, 270-271 ventilation when, 79 filling small holes and dents, 55
repairing walls, 92, 93 patching large holes, 56-57
fireboxes, 262-263 window trim, 88-89 Plastic pipes
parquet tiles (laminate), replacing, fittings for, 287
veneer, 231
Materials for preparation, 81 32-33 grade stamps, 287
Mercury switches, 461 Patios grounding, 286
Metal corner bead, repairing, 54 replacing damaged flagstones, overview of, 286
Metal storm windows 268-269 rigid
repairing sash frame, 130 resurfacing concrete slab, cutting, 288-289
replacing glass in, 128 240-243 replacing leaky cast iron pipes
Mildew on exterior surfaces, 197 Pedestal Sinks, installing, 316-317 with,308
peeling paint, 196, 197 solvent-gluing, 290-291
N PE (polyethylene) pipes, 286, 287 types of. 286, 287
National Electric Code (NEC), 430 PEX (cross-linked polyethylene) Plug fuses, 424, 425
o pipes, 286, 287 Plumbing system, overview of,
Outlets. See Receptacles Phone jacks, repairing & replacing, 284-285
512-515 Plungers, using, 368
p
Pilot-lights on gas heating systems, on showers, 375
Paint
521 on sinks, 369
common exterior problems &
Pilot-light switches, 467, 472 on toilets, 374
solutions, 196-197
556 • T HE COI\ IPLETE PHOTO GU ID E TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

Plunger-valve ballcocks, repairing, 357 Roofs installing flexible adapters, 351
Pocket window replacement, common problems, 169 See a/so Tub & shower faucets
described, 132 emergency repairs, 171 (combination)
Polarity, testing for, 452-453 ice dams, 168 Shutoff valves, 313
Popcorn texture ceilings, removing, 66 locating & evaluating leaks, 170 Sidelights (entry door), 160
Power augers, using, 383 repairing Siding
Prehung interior doors, installing, chimney caps, 182 common problems, 185
150-151 gutters, 178-181 overview of, 184, 190
Pressure-assisted toilets, repairing, spot areas, 171 painting, 206, 208-211
363-364 wood fascia, 176 patching aluminum, 191
Pressure washing masonry & wood panel soffits, 177 removing, 186-187
stonework,270-271 replacing replacing
primers, 81, 84-85 asphalt shingles, 172 aluminum end caps, 191
Prime window replacement, chimney caps, 183 board & batten, 192
described, 132 step flashing, 175 lap, 193
Push-button switches, 460 vent flashing, 174 wall sheathing, 188-189
PVC (polyvinyl chloride) plastic pipes wood shingles & shakes, 173 wood shakes & shingles, 192
overview of, 286, 287 Rooms, preparing for working in, staining, 212-213
replacing leaky cast iron pipes 82-83 Sillcocks
with,308 Rotary snap switches, 460 installing frost-free, 315
See a/so Rigid plastic pipes Rust on exterior, 197 overviewof,314
R
repairing, 314
S
Radiator control valves, replacing, 532 Saddle valves, 313 Sinks
Receptacles Safety clearing clogged, 368-370
accessories for, 451 childproofing electrical installing drop-in kitchen, 320-321
installing pedestal, 316-317
childproofing electrical. 451 receptacles, 451
described,419 electrical system and, 422-423 repairing leaky strainers, 371
high-voltage, 450 identifying & repairing heating replacing faucets, 334-337
installing GFCI receptacles, systems exhaust leaks, 533 sprayers
456-459 lead paint and, 70 attaching, 337
repairing diverter valves, 342
older, 449 protecting eyes, 33, 78
overview of, 444, 445 using solvent glues, 288 replacing hoses, 342
problems and solutions, when painting, 78-79 Slab doors, 156
442-443,445 when using ladders & scaffolds, Sliding doors
repairing & replacing, 454-455 76-77 maintaining, 107
testing for power, grounding securing, 138
when working with acids, 45
& polarity, 452-453
Sliding windows, 112
when working with wood, 33
testing switch/receptacle, 473 Sagging joists, repairing, 13 Smoke alarms, installing, 510-511
types of, 448 Scaffolds, 76 Soffits
wall switch/receptacle Sealers, 84-85 painting panels, 205
combinations, 467 Self-rimming sinks, installing, repairing roof panels, 177
Recessed lighting, repairing 320-321 Solid wood interior doors,
& replacing, 485-487 Septic systems, maintaining, shortening,115-116
Regrouting all tile, 60 402-403 Solvent glues, 288
Resilient tiles, replacing, 37 Split-circuit receptacles, 446, 447
Service mast, described, 418
Rigid copper pipes, 292 Service panel problems and Sprayers
Rigid plastic pipes solutions, 433-435 attaching, 337
cutting, 288-289 Shakes & shingles repairing diverter valves, 342
replacing leaky cast iron pipes removing siding, 187 replacing hoses, 342
with,308 replacing wood on roofs, 173 Stains
solvent-gluing, 290-291 Sheet paneling, replacing, 58-59 overview of, 212
types of, 286, 287 using on siding, 212-213
Sheet vinyl floors, patching, 35-36
Rollers for painting Shingle siding, staining, 213 Stairs
cleaning, 205 eliminating squeaks, 96-97
Showers
selecting, 203 clearing clogged drains, 375 replacing broken treads, 98-99
using, 86, 204 Step flashing, replacing roof, 175
showerheads
cleaning & repairing, 350
Index • 557
Steps wires),354 bubbles under, 11
rebuilding concrete, 234-239 clearing clogged, 374 patching, 27, 35-36
repairing concrete, 227 common problems, 352, 354 replacing resilient tiles, 37
patching corners, 228 overview of, 353 Vinyl siding
patching treads, 229 repairing removing, 187
replacing corners, 228 leaking, 360-361 repairing, 190, 191
Stonework pressure-assisted tOilets,
W
pressure washing, 270-271 363-364 Walkways, resurfacing concrete,
problems with, 264 repairing running
232-233
rebuilding dry-stone wall adjusting, cleaning or installing
Wallboard
section, 265 flush valve, 359 primers & sealers and, 84-85
repairing mortared walls, 266 adjusting/ repairing ballcocks,
raising sagging, 67
replacing popped stones, 264 356-358 removing, 72
replacing popped stones in overview of, 355 repairing, 50
mortared walls, 267 replacing, 364-367 cracks and gashes, 51
repointing mortar joints, 266 Tools for preparation, 80
metal corner bead, 54
Storm doors Tools for working with copper, 293
patching large holes, 53
installing, 154-155 Track lights, repairing, 490-491
patching over doors and
maintaining, 131 Trim moldings
windows, 54
Storm windows painting, 91
patching small holes, 52
general maintenance, 131 replacing, 16-17
water damaged, 68-69
repairing metal sash frame, 130 Tubs wallcovering
replacing glass in metal, 128 clearing clogged drains, 376-377
patching, 65
replacing screening, 128 installing flexible shower removing, 71
weatherizing, 112 adapters, 351 repairing bubbles, 64
Strike plates on doors, aligning with replacing spouts, 347
Walls
latch bolt, 104 Tub & shower faucets (combination)
final inspection & repairing
Stucco siding Single-handle, 343, 348-349
problems, 74-75
painting, 206 three-handle, 342, 344-345
painting, 91, 92, 93
removing, 187 two-handle, 343, 346-347
removing
repairing, 214-215 Two-slot receptacles, 446, 447
ceramic tile, 71
Supply tubes, installing shutoff
U plaster, 73
valves &, 338-339
Universal washer kits, 328 wallboard, 72
Sweated joints, 294
wallcovering, 71
V
T Valves
repairing
Thermostats adjusting, cleaning or installing common taping problems, 74-75
replacing electric water heater, 390 concrete foundation, 226
toilet flush, 359
replacing line-voltage, 544-545 materials for, 81
function of, 312
replacing low-voltage, 540-543 tools for, 80
installing supply tubes & shutoff,
types of, 538-539 wallcovering, 64-65
338-339
Thresholds repairing water damaged, 68-69
replacing, 118-121 repairing ceramic tile
sprayer diverter, 342
weatherizing, 109, 120 recaulking joints, 61
tub & shower compression
Tiles regrouti ng, 60
diverter, 345
recaulking joints on ceramic wall, 61 repairing plaster
replacing radiator control, 532
regrouting ceramic wall, 60 soldering brass, 298 cracks, 57
removing ceramic wall, 71 filling small holes and dents, 55
types of, 313
replacing patching large holes, 56-57
Valve seats, replacing and
accessories on ceramic wall, 62 resurfacing, 331 repairing wallboard, 50
acoustical ceiling, 67 cracks and gashes, 51
Vanity tops & cabinets, installing
broken ceramic wall tiles, 63 integral,318-319 metal corner bead, 54
ceramic floor, 38-39 patching large holes, 53
Vent flashing, replacing roof, 174
resilient, 37 patching over doors and
Ventilation
Timer switches, 472 windows, 54
of attics, 546-549
Toggle switches, 460-461 patching small holes, 52
when painting, 79
Toilets replacing
Vinyl floors
adjusting handle & lift chain (or lift accessories on ceramic tile, 62
5 58 • T HE CO I\ IPLETE PH OTO GU ID E TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

broken ceramic tiles, 63 storm
sheet paneling, 58-59 general maintenance, 131
trim moldings, 16-17 repairing metal sash frame, 130
Wall switches replacing glass in metal, 128
common problems and solutions, replacing screening, 128
442-443,460-461 weatherizing, 108, 109, 112-113
described,419 Wiring
double switches, 466, 473 configurations, 446-447
electronic, 473 connection problems and
four-way switches, 464 solutions, 436-437
installing dimmer switches, evaluating old, 426-429
478-479 Wood fascia
repairing & replacing, 474-477 painting, 205
Washerless faucets, 322 repairing roof, 176
Waste water. See Drain system Wood floors
Water hammer arresters, removing stains, 19
installing, 407 repairing scratches & small holes,
Water heaters 19,25
maintaining, 387 replacing sections, 26-27
overview of, 386 Wood panel soffits
repairing, 387 painting, 205
electric, 390-391 repairing roof, 177
gas, 388-389 Wood roof shingles & shakes,
replacing replacing, 173
electric (220/240-volt), 398-399 Wood shakes & shingles,
gas, 393-397 replacing, 192
overview of, 392
Water softeners, maintaining,
400-401
Water supply system,
overview of, 284
Weatherizing
basics, 108-109
doors, 108, 109-110
garage, 146
installing storm, 154-155
thresholds, 109, 120
materials, 109
windows, 108, 109, 112-113
Windows
improving operation of
adjusting, 122
cleaning & lubricating cranks, 125
freeing sticking, 123
repairing crank assembly, 125
replacing broken sash cords, 124
installing
new sashes, 132-135
replacement with nailing
sashes, 152-153
well covers on basement, 108
painting
exterior, 207
trim on, 88-89
removing, 148, 149
replacing broken panes, 126-127
securing, 136, 137
Index • 559
CREATIVE PUBLISHING international
Complete Guide to Attics & Basements
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Complete Guide to Trim & Finish Carpentty
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The Complete Photo Guide to Home Repair

Painting Cabinets .... · ... 94 Repairing Siding .. ............. 190

10 • THE CO I\ IPLETE PHOTO GU ID E TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

I How to Repair a Bulging Joist

12 • THE CO I\ IPLETE PHOTO GU ID E TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

Tools & Materials ｾ＠

Drill Wood putty

I How to Eliminate Floor Squeaks

14 • THE CO I\ IPLETE PHOTO GU ID E TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

Tools & Materials ｾ＠

Flat pry bars (2) Wood scraps

I How to Remove Damaged Trim

16 • THE CO I\IPLETE PHOTO GU ID E TO HOI\IE HEPAIH

Tools & Materials ｾ＠

Vacuum Hardwood c leaning kit Latex wood patch Hammer

I How to Clean & Renew Hardwood

18 • THE CO I\IPLETE PHOTO GU ID E TO HOI\IE HEPAIH

I How to Patch Scratches & Small Holes

Tools & Materials ｾ＠

DriJJ Replacement boards

I How to Replace Damaged Floorboards

20 • THE CO I\IPLETE PHOTO GU ID E TO HOI\IE HEPAIH

22 • THE CO I\IPLETE PHOTO GU ID E TO HOI\IE HEPAIH

24 • THE CO I\ IPLETE PHOTO GU IDE TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

With a clean, lint-free cloth, apply a

26 • THE CO I\ IPLETE PHOTO GU ID E TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

Tips for Patching Floors ｾ＠

Tools & Materials ｾ＠

Circular saw C hise l

From bottom to top, laminate planks

28 • THE CO I\ IPLETE PHOTO GU ID E TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

30 • THE CO I\ IPLETE PHOTO GU IDE TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

If you don't have a replacement tile, and

32 • THE CO I\ IPLETE PHOTO GU IDE TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

Whenever cutting or drilling wood, be sure to wear

Install replacement block. Hook the tongue of the

34 • THE CO ,\ IPLETE PHOTO GU ID E TO HO,\ IE HEPAIH

36 • THE CO I\ IPLETE PHOTO GU IDE TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

thi s is s impl y a matte r of re moving and re pl ac in g Ha mm e r T hin- se t morta r

I How to Replace Ceramic Tiles

38 • T HE CO I\ IPLETE PH OTO GU ID E TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

Tools & Materials ｾ＠

Cook ie-c utte r too l Doubl e-face

I How to Repair Spot Damage

40 • THE CO I\ IPLETE PHOTO GU ID E TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

I How to Glue Loose Seams

Knee kickers have teeth that grab the

42 • THE CO I\ IPLETE PHOTO GU IDE TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

If you have cushion-backed, fully-bonded carpet, you

1. You won't need a knee kicker.

Tools & Materials ｾ＠

44 • THE CO I\ IPLETE PHOTO GU ID E TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

46 • THE CO I\ IPLET E PHOTO GU ID E TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

48 • THE CO I\ IPLETE PHOTO GU ID E TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

Tools & Materials ｾ＠

Drill or screwgun Wallboard saw All-purpose Paper joint tape

50 • THE CO I\ IPLETE PHOTO GU ID E TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

I Other Options for patching Small Holes in Wallboard

52 • THE CO I\ IPLETE PHOTO GU IDE TO HOI\ IE HEPAIH

I How to Patch Large Holes with Repair Clips

I How to Repair Metal Corner Bead