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Identification of Fabric
Defects
Source:
New Cloth Market
Understanding and Identification of Fabric Defects
Source: New Cloth Market
Often inspectors are given the responsibility of inspecting finished garments without adequate training in
fabric defects and their causes. The ultimate solution, of course, is to provide actual examples or
photographs of both major and minor defects. This section provides a list of defects and explanations and
simplifies the language and the judgments used in making visual fabric evaluations. The Quality Control
Manager can provide this list to inspectors as a practical tool for achieving uniform inspection decisions.
Major Defect: A defect that, if conspicuous on the finished product, would cause the item to be a second. (A
"second" is a garment with a conspicuous defect that affects the salability or serviceability of the item.
Minor Defects: A defect that would not cause the product to be termed a second either because of severity
or location. When inspecting piece goods prior to cutting, it is necessary to rate questionable defects as
major, since the inspector will not know where the defect may occur on the item.
End Out Caused by yarn breaking and loom continuing to run Major
with missing end.
Mixed End Yarn of a different fiber blend used on the wrap Usually
(Yarn) frame, resulting in a streak in the fabric. Major
Mixed Filling Caused by bobbin of lightweight yarn or different Major
fiber blend used in filling. Will appear as a distinct
shade change.
Open Reed Results from a bent reed wire causing wrap ends to Major
be held apart, exposing the filling yarn. Will be
conspicuous on fabrics that use different colored
yarns on wrap and shuttle.
Soiled Filling Dirty, oil looking spots on the wrap or filling yarns, or Major
or End on package-dyed yarn.
Stop Mark When the loom is stopped, the yarn elongates under Can be
tension; when loom starts again' the slackness is Major or
woven into the fabric. Minor
Thin Place Often caused by the filling yarn breaking and the Major
loom continuing to run until the operator notices the
problem.
Knitting Defects
End Out Occurs in wrap knit. Results from knitting machine Usually
continuing to run with missing end. Major
Back Fabric Backing fabric is often used to cushion fabric being Major
Seam printed. If there is a joining seam in the backing
Impression fabric, an impression will result on printed fabric.
Crease Mark Differs from crease streak in that streak will Major
probably appear for entire roll. Crease mark
appears where creases are caused by fabric folds
in the finishing process. On napped fabric, final
pressing may not be able to restore fabric or
original condition. Often discoloration is a problem.
Dye Streak in Results from a damaged doctor blade or blade not Major
Printing cleaned properly. Usually a long streak until the
operator notices the problem.
Pin Holes Holes along selvage caused by pins holding fabric Major,
while it processes through tenter frame.
Major> if pin holes extend into body of fabric far
enough to be visible in the finished product.