Wavw Hydrodynamics PDF

Chapter 1
● Concept
● The beaches Ocean Wave Hydrodynamics
● Wave Characteristics
Department of Ocean Engineering
● Wave forecasting
● Wave propagation and Indian Institute of Technology
transformations
● Wave decay
Chapter 2
● Conservation of mass
● Euler equation
● Bernoulli equation
● Roatation of a fluid particle
● Wave theory
Chapter 3
● Stream Function Theory

● Potential Function Theory
Chapter 4
● Bottom Boundary
Condition
● Kinematic Free Surface
Boundary Condition
● Dynamic Free Surface
Boundary Condition
● Wave Celerity
● Solution to a Wave
Problem
Chapter 5
● Change of wave celerity

and wave length with depth
● Water Particle Velocities
● Water Particle
Accelerations
● Water Particle
Displacements
● Pressure Within a
Progressive Wave
Chapter 6
● Superposition of Waves
● Analysis of Combined
Wave Period
Chapter 1
Concept
● Concept
● The beaches Generation of Ripples
● Wave
Characteristics
A common observation for those residing along side a pond or a lake is that the water in the pond or lake
● Wave forecasting remains 'still' at certain time of the day and disturbed at some other time. A keen observation on the so called
● Wave "disturbances" would reveal that these disturbances which appear in the form of ripples on the water surface are
propagation and generated whenever a wind system prevail over the water body.
transformations
● Wave decay For those who have observed long elliptical lakes or ponds might have noticed that the wind system while
blowing over a part of the lake generates a disturbance (ripples) over the area of interaction whereas the other
area not affected by the wind system remains calm. In the above discussion, it is presumed that the direction of
Chapter 2 wind blow is along the major axis of the elliptical water body. From the above description, it can be inferred that
whenever a wind system interacts with an initially calm water body, ripples are generated and these ripples
propagating in the direction of wind blow, reach the end of the lake or pond.
● Conservation of
It is obvious that, depending on the magnitude of wind speed and direction of wind blow, the ripples which are
mass generated would be driven in different directions and their characteristics would vary. Additionally it can be
● Euler equation inferred that the length of the water body, duration for which the wind blows and wind speed would govern the
● Bernoulli equation generation of ripples. No specific mention about the width of the water body (minor axis of the elliptical pond or
● Roatation of a
lake) is made in the discussions implying that this parameter has no significant role to play in the generation of
ripples.
fluid particle
● Wave theory Generation of Waves
It is now easy to extend the above argument for a large water body like ocean. Figure 1.1 shows an initially calm
Chapter 3 water surface in the ocean, wherein a wind system acts. The parameters of importance are shown in the
figure1.1. The fetch length indicated in the figure corresponds more or less to the major axis of the elliptical
water body mentioned in earlier, and fetch width corresponds to the minor axis. Here it is assumed that the area
● Stream Function over which the wind blows is rectangular and the direction of wind blow is along the length of the rectangular
Theory area.
● Potential
Function Theory
Chapter 4
● Bottom Boundary
Condition
● Kinematic Free
Surface
Boundary
Condition
● Dynamic Free
Surface
Boundary
Condition
● Wave Celerity
Fig 1.1 Wind system acting on a fetch
● Solution to a
Wave Problem
As far as the fetch area is concerned, fetch length (F) is of importance and the fetch width has less role to play
in the wave generation. Fetch length is normally measured in kilometers or nautical miles. In regard to the wind
Chapter 5 system, the speed of wind (U) is in m/s and duration for which the wind blows (t) in hours are important.
Consider a case wherein the F=1000 km, U =20 m/s and t =10 hours. Transfer of energy from the wind system
● Change of wave
to the water surface is controlled depending on the duration and the available fetch length. In the above case, if
the duration for which the wind blows is less compared to the available fetch length, the resulting waves are
celerity and wave
termed as duration controlled waves and vice versa, the waves are known as fetch controlled waves.
length with depth
The waves thus generated in the fetch area known as " Sea" and those propagating out of the fetch area are
● Water Particle
termed as "Swell". Usually, the swell waves are of importance to the coastal engineers as these waves possess
Velocities substantial energy and travel thousands of kilometers from the deep ocean, before reaching the coastline where
● Water Particle they dissipate their energy. The waves (swell), upon leaving the fetch area travel towards the shallow waters
Accelerations and this region is termed as "Propagation area". On reaching the coastline, these waves dissipate their energy
● Water Particle
and the region where their energy is destroyed is termed as "Decay area".
Displacements The process of wave generation, propagation, and decay is shown in the following animation.
Progressive
Wave
Chapter 6
● Superposition of
Waves
● Analysis of
Combined Wave
Period
The concept of wave generation can be better explained through an another simple example. Most of us who
had an opportunity to visit the rural area where agricultural fields cover vast expanse of the land, might have
observed that the fully grown crops when subjected to wind start oscillating and give an impression as if a wave
field is generated. A sample agricultural field wherein a wind system blows over it is shown below. It is
interesting to that the magnitude of disturbance depends on the wind speed and the extent of disturbance
depends on the change in the direction of the wind blow.
Click here to view the video.
The to and fro motions made by the standing crops give an impression that the waves generated in the far flung
area reach the boundary of the paddy field. It is the to and fro motions of the crop alone is responsible for this
phenomenon. In case of waves generated in the ocean, a similar phenomenon occurs wherein the water mass
performs the to and fro motion. In case of crops, there is no transfer of energy between adjacent sections of the
crop whereas in ocean, energy is transferred from one section to the other section.
Chapter 1
Description and definition of beach profiles
● Concept
● The beaches Beaches
● Wave Beaches are defined, in layman's language, as a pile of loose sands or shingle withstanding the impact of
waves. It is surprising to observe that the fine sand material with a maximum size of about 0.2mm can
Characteristics
collectively withstand the wave impact and acts as a natural barrier between the sea and the land. One would
● Wave forecasting be astonished to note that large concrete structures constructed by the mankind are at times destroyed by the
● Wave large waves whereas the fine grain materials viz., the sand can withstand large waves by reshaping their
propagation and profile. The secret of the beaches comprising of fine grain material in withstanding large waves lies in
transformations maintaining equilibrium between the wave energy, the material comprising the beach and readjustment of the
● Wave decay beach slope.
If the beach material is coarse and large waves pound the beaches, an adjustment takes place within the
system such that the beach front becomes steep for stability. In case if the beach material is fine and large
waves attack the beach, the fine material is washed out first and transported towards the deeper portion along
Chapter 2 the coast, exposing the underlying coarse material to the rescue of the beach. Once the coarse material is
exposed, the beach front becomes steep as explained earlier. In case the beach comprises of fine material and
● Conservation of the wave attack is moderate, the system re-adjusts such that the beach front becomes flat.
mass
● Euler equation A typical beach profile is shown in figure 1.2
● Roatation of a
fluid particle
● Wave theory
Chapter 3
● Stream Function
Theory
● Potential
Function Theory
Chapter 4
● Bottom Boundary
Condition
● Kinematic Free
Surface
Boundary
Condition
● Dynamic Free
Surface
Boundary
Condition
● Wave Celerity
● Solution to a
Wave Problem
Fig. 1.2 Terminologies associated with a beach

Chapter 5
● Change of wave The process of readjustment of the beaches depending upon the wave condition is detailed again in the
celerity and wave following paragraph.
length with depth The beach sand comprising of assorted sediments of various sizes and shapes is constantly moved by the
● Water Particle waves and the shape of the beach profile depends on the sediment and wave characteristics. For the sake of
Velocities convenience, let us assume that the upper layer of the beach comprises of fine sediments and the lower layer
with relatively coarse sediments. As during a monsoon season it is obvious that the beach would be subjected
● Water Particle
to rough waves, the fine sediments in the upper layer would be washed away by the waves and deposited in
Accelerations
the near shore region leaving behind the coarse material on the beach enabling the beach face to become
● Water Particle
Displacements steeper. The result of this entire process is the formation of the long shore bar and reduction in the available
● Pressure Within a beach berm. During the non-monsoon season, moderate waves while acting on the near shore region shunt the
Progressive fine grain material from the long shore bar back to the beach enabling the beach face to become flatter. The
result of this process yields disappearance of the long shore bar and increase in the width of the beach berm.
Wave
Both the processes are depicted in figures 1.3 and 1.4
Chapter 6
Waves
● Analysis of
Combined Wave
Period
Fig.1.3. Non monsoon profile
Fig.1.4. Monsoon profile

Chapter 1
Wave Generation and Propagation
● Concept
● The beaches
● Wave Characteristics Deep water waves
● Wave propagation and The waves that are developed in the generation area are mostly random in nature and a typical wave
transformations train in that region would look like a terrain with full of hillocks of varying elevation. A typical
● Wave decay disturbance that would be present in the generation area is shown figure 1.5
Chapter 2
● Euler equation
● Roatation of a fluid
particle
● Wave theory
Chapter 3

Chapter 4
● Bottom Boundary
Condition
Boundary Condition
Boundary Condition Fig.1.5. Waves in a generation area
● Wave Celerity ( Image Courtesy : www.photolib.noaa.gov)
Problem
As mentioned earlier, once the waves are generated, they leave the generation area and commence
their long journey towards the coast and the region in which they travel is known as propagation area.
Chapter 5
A typical cross section of the wave surface elevation in the propagation area would be similar to the
profile shown in figure 1.6.
● Change of wave celerity From the figure, it is clear that no single wave (or disturbance) is identical with each other. It is still
and wave length with possible to identify individual waves in the propagation area by defining a wave period, the crest and
depth trough elevations. Typical way of defining waves in a wave train is explained below.
As can be seen from the time series, waves propagating in succession are not identical and the
frequencies with which they occur are not the same. In the definition of the wave, following
● Water Particle parameters are normally adopted.
Accelerations {Wave height (H), Wave period (T), Wavelength (L), Water depth (d), Wave surface elevation (h), Zero
● Water Particle up-crossing, Period (TZ), Zero down-crossing period (Td), Crest and trough periods (Tc and Tt). The
Displacements parameters are shown in the figure.}
Progressive Wave
Chapter 6
Wave Period
Fig.1.6 Typical wave surface elevations in a time series
Each wave in the time series can be viewed as a simple sine wave with a period T and wave height H
= hc+ht
Waves of assorted characteristics after leaving the generation area become more or less regular with
definite identity such as wave height, wave length or wave period. These waves while travelling in a
propagation area travel with a speed specified according to their wave period
.
For example, if the first wave in the above figure has a period Tzu= 8s and the second wave has a
period of 6s, the first wave would propagate with a speed higher than the second wave and as the
distance from the generation area increases, these two waves separate themselves. This example
highlights that the assorted waves after leaving the generation area would get separated depending
upon the speed with which the individual waves travel, leading to a group of waves of the same
characteristics moving together after lapse of several hours from the time they had left the generation
area.
Chapter 1
Wave Forecasting
● Concept Forecasting of waves is essential for wide range of coastal activities. For example, towing of a floating structure to the
● The beaches location and seating the same need an assessment regarding the wave climate that would prevail in the region of activity.
● Wave It is possible to estimate the wave characteristics that would reach the region based on the information on wind
characteristics that prevail in the deep waters. Two examples are given below to highlight the methodology of wave
Characteristics
forecasting. Initially, an example to explain the wave characteristics that a wind system would generate is given followed
by wave forecasting method.
● Wave
propagation and
Example 1.1
transformations Given:
● Wave decay 1. Deep water wind speed = 10 knots (1 knot = 0.515 m/s)
2. Fetch distance = 1000 nautical miles (1 nautical mile = 1.854 km)
3. Duration of wind blow = 20 hours
Chapter 2
Find: Estimate the swell characteristics that this wind system would generate.
● Conservation of
mass Solution:
● Euler equation
● Bernoulli equation There are two methods by which the answers could be derived viz., a) SMB (Sverdrup Munk Bretschneider) Method and
● Roatation of a b) PNJ (Pierson Neumann and James) Method.
fluid particle
● Wave theory SMB Method:
This method is based on the graphical estimation of the quantities and a simplified version of the graph is given below.
Chapter 3
● Stream Function
Theory
● Potential
Function Theory
Chapter 4
● Bottom Boundary
Condition
● Kinematic Free
Surface
Boundary
Condition
● Dynamic Free
Surface
Boundary
Condition
● Wave Celerity
● Solution to a
Wave Problem
Chapter 5
● Change of wave
celerity and wave
length with depth
Fig.1.7 Schematic version of SMB Chart.
● Water Particle
Velocities
● Water Particle The graph shows the variation of wave height and wave period that would be generated for a given fetch length, wind
Accelerations speed and wind duration. The intersecting point corresponding to the given fetch and wind speed would fall inbetween the
● Water Particle isolines of wave height and wave period. The corresponding wave height and wave period are recorded and then the
Displacements intersecting point corresponding to the given duration of wind blow and wind speed is identified and the corresponding
● Pressure Within a wave characteristics recorded from the isolines.
Progressive
Wave
With the above combination of wind speed, fetch and duration, the wave generated would have a height of 8 feet and
period would be slightly above 7.5 s. If the fetch length reduces to 200 nautical miles and the duration of wind blow is 3
Chapter 6 hours, the wave would have a height of about 3 feet with a period of about 3 s. Suppose if the fetch length is 1000
nautical miles and the duration of wind blow is 3 hours, the wave height would be restricted to 3 feet and period would be
● Superposition of 3 s and this resulting wave is known as duration controlled wave as the duration of wind blow was not large enough for
Waves the wave to grow further. If the fetch length is 200 nautical miles, and the duration of wind blow is 8 hours the resulting
wave would have a height of 3 feet and period would be 3 s and this resulting wave is known as fetch controlled wave as
● Analysis of
the fetch was not large enough for the wave to grow further. Complete charts that appear in the textbooks are given in
Combined Wave figure 1.7.
Period
PNJ Method:
Wave forecasting based on the concept of wave energy is often adopted and the method prescribed by Pierson Neumann
and James is conveniently followed. The method also involves the three parameters mentioned above viz., wind speed
(U), fetch distance (F) and duration of wind blow (t). Two separate charts are assigned to predict the wave climate for the
given combination of U, t, and F. Sample charts (Schematic version) of U-F and U-t are given below.
The X and Y axes of the chart 'A' represent the frequency and the energy that can be transferred by the wind system to
the ocean surface when wind speed and fetch length are considered. Chart 'B' shows the energy can be transferred to the
ocean surface when wind speed and duration are considered.
Based on the concept that the ocean surface would receive the energy that would be restricted either by the fetch length
or duration of wind blow, the corresponding energy would dictate the possible wave characteristics that can be generated.
Assuming wind speed of 30 knots, fetch length of 300 nautical miles and wind duration of 16 hours. The wave
characteristics that would result from the given combination can be determined based on the charts shown in figures 1.8
and 1.9 From figure 1.8 (U and F combination) the wave energy transferred to the ocean surface is estimated as 54 ft2
whereas from figure 1.9 (U and t combination) yields an energy transfer of the order of 16ft2. As the combination of U and
t transfers minimum energy to the ocean surface, the type of wave generated is christened as "duration controlled wave".
From this energy transfer it is possible to derive the wave characteristics such as significant wave height (Hs), average
wave height (Have), 1/10 highest wave height (H1/10 ) and wave period (T = 1/f) based on the following relationships.
Hs = 2.83 ÖEf
Have = 1.77 ÖEf
H1/10 = 3.60 ÖEf
In addition to the above wave characteristics, other parameters frequently referred are wavelength (L), wave period (T),
and wave celerity(C). Wavelength is defined as the distance between the crest-crest distance or trough-trough distance of
a wave, whereas wave period is defined as the time difference between the successive wave crests to reach a reference
point. Celerity is defined as the ratio of wavelength to wave period. In general, additional quantities such as deep water
wave length (L0), shallow water wave length (L), deep water celerity (C0), and shallow water celerity (C), group celerity in
deep waters (Cgo) and shallow water group celerity (Cg) are also adopted. These parameters are defined as follows for a
given water depth (d).
Lo = 1.56 T2
L = (gT2/2p) tanh(kd)
C0 = L0/T
C =L/T
R = 2pd/L
Cg = n. C
n=
Cgo = C0/2
Cg = C
Fig.1.8. Schematic version of PNJ chart (A)
Fig.1.9. Schematic version of PNJ chart (B)
Mathematical derivations of these quantities are dealt in detail in the respective chapters.
Definition of Wave Characteristics
In hydrodynamics, characteristics of waves such as a) maximum wave height (Hmax), b) one tenth wave height (H1/10), c)
significant wave height (Hs), d) average wave height (Have), e) root mean square wave height (Hrms) are often used to
represent a wave train similar to the one shown in figure 1.10. As these characteristic waves represent a wave train
similar to the one shown in figure 1.6., a simple procedure is evolved to estimate these waves
For example, if in a wave train the number of waves are 102, the wave heights are classified in different groups and the
number of waves falling in each group is counted and tabulated as shown in the table…. With significant wave height
defined as the average of one third of the total number of large waves and H1/10 being the average of the largest 10
waves in the given wave train, the table demonstrates the determination of the H1/10, Hs and Have.
Fig.1.10 Sample wave train
Table 1.1.1 Computation of characteristic wave heights
Wave height
Number of waves Cumulative number Average height Significant height Average 1/10 highest
in feet
1 7 102 7 - -
2 33 95 66 - -
3 30 62 90 6(3*2) -
4 20 32 80 80 -
5 7 12 35 35 25(5*5)
6 3 5 18 18 18
7 1 2 7 7 7
8 1 1 8 8 8
Total 311 154 58
Average height = 311/102 = 3.0 m.

Significant height = 154/34 = 4.5 m.
Average 1/10 highest = 58/10 = 5.8 m.
Chapter 1
Wave transformations
● Concept As the waves commence their journey from the generation area, the direction at which they are directed remains
● The beaches unaffected by the local wind conditions that prevail in the region of propagation. However, the process of
● Wave segregation of these waves continues such that waves of similar frequencies group themselves together and
travel with a speed specified by the frequency. Further, it is observed that the wavelength remain unaltered for
Characteristics
these segregated waves while propagating in deep waters.
Once the swell reaches the region near the coast, both the direction as well as the characteristics of the swell is
● Wave modified. It is interesting to observe that the waves travelling from deep to shallow waters undergo different
propagation and transformations due to a) refraction, b) diffraction, c) reflection, d) shoaling, e) breaking etc. These processes
transformations are defined in the following paragraphs and the mathematical formulations are given in respective chapters.
● Wave decay
Refraction
As the waves travel over the sloping seabed, the speed at which they can travel is controlled by the depth. To
Chapter 2 illustrate the process of refraction, following example is given.
● Conservation of Example
mass Assume that two boys holding a 10m long rope starts walking towards a mountain and the boys while walking at
the same speed in the flat terrain reach the bottom of the mountain. Out of these two boys, one boy continues to
● Euler equation
move on the terrain and the other starts climbing up the mountain. Obviously, the speed of the boy climbing up
● Bernoulli equation the mountain would be lesser compared to the boy on the terrain. Obviously, difference in the speed between
● Roatation of a the boys would introduce a change in the alignment of the rope.
fluid particle If we extend the same concept to a long wave crest approaching the coast (representing the rope in the above
● Wave theory example) with two ends of the long wave crest moving in different water depths. Because of the depth variation,
one end of the long wave crest would be in shallow depths compared to the other end. The characteristics of the
wave are that they travel slowly in shallow water depths and vice versa in relatively deep waters. With this
Chapter 3 concept, the end in the shallow water would move slowly, compared to the other end of the long wave crest
which would move faster as it is positioned in relatively deep waters. This process would cause a change in the
● Stream Function direction of approach of the long wave crest. This process is known as refraction and animation is given below.
Theory
● Potential
Function Theory
Chapter 4
● Bottom Boundary
Condition
● Kinematic Free
Surface
Boundary
Condition
● Dynamic Free
Surface
Boundary
Condition
● Wave Celerity
● Solution to a
Wave Problem
Chapter 5
● Change of wave
celerity and wave
length with depth
● Water Particle
Velocities
● Water Particle
Accelerations
Diffraction
● Water Particle Diffraction is a phenomenon that occurs when long wave crests while propagating from deep to shallow waters
Displacements encounter an island or for that matter any barrier such as breakwaters of a harbour or offshore breakwaters etc.
● Pressure Within a The phenomenon is explained through the following animation wherein a wave encounters an island in the
Progressive propagation area. It can be observed that the unobstructed portions of the wave crest on either side of the island
propagate for without any modification in the wave characteristics. This process leaves a low wave energy zone
Wave
on the lee side of the island shouldered by high wave energy zones. As per the law of the nature, energy should
flow from high energy zones on either side of the island to the low energy zone. Occurrence of this process is
Chapter 6 reflected in the generation of wave propagation on the lee side of the island in the form of concentric circles.
This process is known as diffraction.
Waves
● Analysis of
Combined Wave
Period
Chapter 1
Wave decay
● Concept Once the waves reach the nearshore region, wave transformations such as refraction and diffraction
● The beaches occur. Waves marching further towards the coast struggle to retain its shape due to the decrease in
● Wave Characteristics water depth. The magnitude of change in the shape of the wave depends on the slope of the sea bed
(either steep of flat) and on the type of coast (either rocky or sandy). The change in the shape is often
attributed to the fact that the waves dissipate their energy adjacent to the coast, a process known as
● Wave propagation and
wave breaking. Wave breaking can be classified under four types viz., a) spilling b) plunging c)
transformations collapsing d) surging. Schematic representations of the different types of wave breaking are shown in
● Wave decay the following figure.
Chapter 2
● Euler equation
particle
● Wave theory
Chapter 3

● Potential Function
Theory
Chapter 4
● Bottom Boundary
Condition
Boundary Condition
Boundary Condition
● Wave Celerity
Problem
Chapter 5
Fig.1.11. Schematic representations of the different types of wave breaking

and wave length with
depth
Out of these four, plunging type is more common all along the coast in the world wherein the water
● Water Particle
mass associated with the wave plunges in order to dissipate the energy. The types of wave breaking
Accelerations mentioned above are depicted in the following photographs.
● Water Particle
Displacements
Progressive Wave
Chapter 6
Wave Period
Fig.1.12. Plunging waves
In case of plunging waves, the shape of the wave is totally deformed due to the reason that the water
mass associated with the crest of the wave advances faster than its trough. This process causes the
instability and the wave plunges into its own water. The curved lines in the above photograph clearly
indicate that the water mass is drawn from the trough region, transported towards the crest resulting in
a free fall. The level of turbulence generated in this process is very large and often associated with air
entrainment. Basically, the air- water mixture results in the formation of the froth creating an
appearance as if a white blanket covers the near shore region.
Spilling breakers
As the waves approach towards the shallow water depths, depending on the wave and sea bed
characteristics, the crest of the wave separates from the main wave and starts rolling along the front
slope of the wave. This process is known as spilling and these waves are known as spilling breakers.
Fig.1.13. Spilling breakers
Surging breakers
In steep rocky coast, it is generally observed if the waves do not break instead toss smoothly along the
rock phase and this mechanism is known as surging. This phenomenon is depicted in the following
photographs.
Fig.1.14. Surging breakers
Collapsing breakers
The waves, which do not fall in any of the above three categories, are classified as collapsing breakers.
There is no definition to describe this type of breakers.
Fig.1.15. Collapsing breakers

Chapter 1
Basic fluid mechanics
● Concept
● The beaches 2.1 Conservation of mass
Consider a parallelopiped of sides Dx, Dy, and Dz.
transformations Conservation of mass requires :
● Wave decay
Fluid flowing across the boundaries into the element in a certain time ∆t be equal to the amount
by which the mass of the element has increased in the same time ∆t.
Chapter 2 Let the velocity components in the x,y,z directions be u, v and w and the length, width and height
of the element are ∆x, ∆y and ∆z
● Euler equation
● Wave theory
Chapter 3

Chapter 4
● Bottom Boundary Condition

Boundary Condition
Boundary Condition
● Wave Celerity
● Solution to a Wave Problem Fig.2.1.
Chapter 5 Inflow of mass across side ABCD in ∆t
● Change of wave celerity and ( r is the mass density) (2.1)

wave length with depth
● Water Particle Accelerations From Taylor series, the inflow of mass across the opposite faceEFGH is given as
● Water Particle Displacements
Progressive Wave
(2.2)
Chapter 6
The net inflow of mass in the direction x during time ∆t is
● Analysis of Combined Wave
Period
(2.3)
negative sign because the outflow is large compared with the inflow.
In a similar fashion for otherdirections i.e, y and z, the net inflow is given as
(2.4)
(2.5)
The net inflow into the element is therefore
(2.6)
If the mass present at time t is
(2.7)
then at time t + ∆t according to Taylor's formula the mass present would be
(2.8)
Therefore net increase in mass in the element is
(2.9)
In the absence of any creation of mass within the volume element, the above quantity must be
equal to the net inflow of mass
(2.10)
After expanding and rewriting the expression of the above equation,

it is rewritten as
(2.11)
The formulation for principle of conservation of mass. (prev equation) is also known as
"continuity" equation
AS for an incompressible fliud, Dρ/Dt = 0,
(2.12)
Equation....... is rewritten in the following form leading to the continuity equation for an
incompressible fluid (either for a steady or unsteady flow)
(2.13)
Chapter 1
2.2 Euler equation
● Concept
● The beaches Fluid motion can be treated mathematically by either of the two approaches (1) Euler's (fixed frame of
reference) (2) Lagrange's ( moving frame of reference)
● Wave
Characteristics
● Wave propagation
and
transformations
● Wave decay
Chapter 2
● Conservation of
mass
● Euler equation
● Roatation of a
fluid particle
● Wave theory
Chapter 3
● Stream Function
Theory Fig.2.2 Description of the Element
● Potential Function
Theory Consider a particle at point x,y,z at time t and let u, v and w be the velocities in x, y and z directions. This
would move in time dt a distance dx = udt in the x direction, dy = vdt in y direction and dz = wdt in the z
direction.
Chapter 4
The change 'du' in particle's 'u' component of velocity would be the sum of total convectional change due to
● Bottom Boundary change in dx, dy and dz and local change due to passage of time dt.
Condition
● Kinematic Free Therefore defining u as a function of x, y, z and t
Surface Boundary
Condition
u = f (x,y,z,t) (2.14)
● Dynamic Free
Surface Boundary
Condition
● Wave Celerity
● Solution to a Wave Therefore the total acceleration is given by (in x direction)
Problem
Chapter 5 (2.15)
● Change of wave
celerity and wave
length with depth Similarly in y and z directions,
● Water Particle
Velocities
● Water Particle (2.16)
Accelerations
● Water Particle
Displacements
Progressive Wave (2.17)
Chapter 6
In steady flow :-
● Superposition of Velocity and acceleration do not vary with time. Therefore local acceleration is zero. But
Waves convective acceleration would be present if flow is non uniform(flow in a converging passage)
● Analysis of
Combined Wave In uniform flow:-
Period Velocity and acceleration do not vary with position. Convective acceleration is zero but local
acceleration is present if the flow is unsteady(In case of increasing discharge)
Application of Newton's 2nd law of motion in the 3 directions yields Euler's equation.
Let p be the pressure and ρ the density of the element whose dimensions are dx, dy, dz.
X, Y, Z are components of body force/unit mass in x, y and z directions at time t.
The product of mass of the element and its total acceleration in the x directions must equal to the sum of
components of forces acting on the element in that direction. (Refer fig. 2.2)
Therefore in x direction
(2.18)
Similarly for other directions
(2.19)
(2.20)
These are Euler's equations of motion.

Chapter 1
Bernoulli Equation
● Concept
● The beaches If in the Euler equations the body force component Z is expressed in terms of a gravity potential,
● Wave Characteristics then the potential energy or force potential w.r.t some datum level for unit mass at height h above
● Wave forecasting the datum is
transformations
(2.21)
● Wave decay
Chapter 2
Differentiating w. r.t 'h'
● Euler equation
(2.22)
● Wave theory
Chapter 3
as it is against gravity add a negative sign

(2.23)
Chapter 4

Boundary Condition
● Dynamic Free Surface Force per unit mass in the positive h direction is -g
Boundary Condition
● Wave Celerity Z being the body force in vertical direction, Z can be expressed as
● Solution to a Wave Problem
Chapter 5 (2.24)
● Change of wave celerity and

wave length with depth Similalry for x, y directions
● Water Particle Accelerations
● Water Particle Displacements (2.25)
Progressive Wave
Also
Chapter 6
(2.26)
Period
From equations 1 to 6 and A to C following equations can be obtained

(2.27)
Subsituting for u, v and w, X, Y, Z from equations 2.24 to 2.26, following equations can be derived
for x, y and z directions
(2.28)
(2.29)
(2.30)
Integerating with respect to x y z gives
(2.31)
The LHS of eqn 2.31 are identical
(2.32)
This is the Bernoulli equation for unsteady irrotational flow of a non viscous incompressible fluid.
For steady flow disappears and for Ω subsituting gh.
(2.33)
Chapter 1
2.4 Rotation of Fluid Particle
● Concept
● The beaches Consider a fluid element (fig 2.3) with ∆x and ∆z as its length and breadth and with its mass
● Wave Characteristics concentrated at its center. At sometime t the velocities at the mass center are u and w in the x and z
● Wave forecasting directions respectively. Assuming a steady velocity in the field and velocities increasing in the positive
● Wave propagation and direction, the element undergoes a small deformation over the time ∆t. With the further assumption
transformations that the sides of the element remain plane and parallel even after the deformation,
● Wave decay
Chapter 2
● Euler equation
particle
● Wave theory
Chapter 3

Chapter 4
● Bottom Boundary
Condition
Boundary Condition
Boundary Condition
● Wave Celerity
Fig.2.3
Problem
the average velocities for the sides parallel to z axis

Chapter 5

and wave length with
depth (2.34)
● Water Particle
Accelerations
● Water Particle
Displacements for the sides parallel to x axis
Progressive Wave
(2.35)
Chapter 6
In over the period Dt, the element undergoes deformation and the rotation of the particle is then
Wave Period defined interms of mean rate of rotation of the sides of the element given as
(2.36)
(2.37)
The mean angular velocity of the element is the average rate of change of 2.37 and 2.38 defined as
(2.38)
Chapter 1
4.1 Wave Theory
● Concept
● The beaches
● Wave Characteristics Formulation and solution of boundary value problem
● Wave propagation and Consider a wave form as shown in the following figure 4.1. Following are the variables associated
transformations in the definition of the wave form and other conditions.
● Wave decay
h : Water depth
Chapter 2
: Wave surface elevation above still water level ( S. W. L )
● Euler equation a : Amplitude of the wave
● Roatation of a fluid particle H : Wave height
● Wave theory
L : Wave length
Chapter 3
● Stream Function Theory T : Wave period

Chapter 4 C : Celerity

Boundary Condition k : Wave number
Boundary Condition
● Wave Celerity
Chapter 5

Progressive Wave
Chapter 6
Period
Fig. 4.1
Boundary Conditions
The differential equation to be satisfied in the region -h Z η and -∞ < x < ∞
is the Laplace equation
------(2.39) x
(2.38)
Chapter 1
Stream Function Theory
● Concept
● The beaches Stream Lines
● Wave
Characteristics
Determination of flow pattern is important in order to find velocity and pressure.
● Wave
Flow pattern : may be 2 Dimensional in which case the flow charecteristics such as velocity and pressure vary only in x and y
propagation and directions and may be 3 Dimensional in which case the velocity and pressure vary in all the three directions. Consider an
transformations axisymmetric flow as shown in figure 3.1 . A line which is tangential to the velocity vector at a given instant is known as Stream
● Wave decay Line (Fig.3.2)
Chapter 2
● Conservation of
mass
● Euler equation
● Roatation of a
fluid particle
● Wave theory
Chapter 3
● Stream Function
Theory Fig 3.1. Axisymmetric flow
● Potential
Function Theory
Chapter 4
● Bottom Boundary
Condition
● Kinematic Free
Surface
Boundary
Condition
● Dynamic Free
Surface
Boundary
Condition
● Wave Celerity
● Solution to a
Wave Problem
Chapter 5
● Change of wave
celerity and wave
length with depth
● Water Particle
Velocities
● Water Particle
Accelerations Fig.3.2. Stream Lines
● Water Particle
Displacements
Progressive
Figure 3.2 shows the typical two dimensional flow pattern. The thin line passing through point P(x, y) is tangential to the velocity vector V at P. If
Wave
u and w are x and y components of V
Chapter 6
( 3.1)
Waves
● Analysis of
Combined Wave
Period
or ( 3.2)
or (3.3)
For a 3 Dimensional flow the corresponding relationship is
( 3.4)
Streaklines, Pathlines, Streamlines
Fig.3.3. Streak lines, Pathlines, Streamlines

Stream function theory
It is convenient to have some means of describing in a concise manner any particular flow pattern.
Requirements
1. It should describe adequately the boundaries

2. Shape of stream lines
3. Magnitude of flow
4. Velocity components at one or more number of points
In a steady 2 Dimensional flow the stream function can be used to describe the flow
is a function of variables x, z
= f(x, y) ( 3.5)
Example: Consider an irrotational flow at a 90o corner as shown in the figure.

Fig.3.4.
For this situation, description of flow can be done effectively by stating
=axz ( 3.6)
Properties:
1. By equating to a constant there results the general equation. i.e. for x axis which is also a streamline is
equating axz = =0
Similarly 1st stream line is described by axz = = 5, "a" determines the magnitude of the flow
2. Velocity components u and w at any point (x, y) are given by the following
( 3.7)
( 3.8)
If a is equal to 1, velocity components u, w and total velocity V at any point P(6,8) are
u = +ax = 6
w = -az = -8
3. Flow rate: The flow rate between any two stream lines is defined as
say between = xz = 10 and = xz = 20
i,e
4. General :
( 3.9)
Subsitute in equation 3.3
( 3.3)
we get
( 3.10)
Which is nothing but the total differential

or is a constant along a stream line.
Flow rate:
( 3.11)
Fig.3.5.
The volumetric flow rate across is given by

( 3.12)
Flow rate per unit width
( 3.13)
Therefore the difference in numerical values of is equal to flow rate between any pair streamlines.
The above characteristics of apply for both rotational and irrotational flows.
For irrotational flow the condition to be satisfied is
( 3.14)
It would be shown that for a flow to be irrotational
( 3.15)
Subsitute for w and u

we get
( 3.16)
or
( 3.17)
(2.38)
Chapter 1
Potential Function Theory:
● Concept
● The beaches For irrotational flow only :
● Wave Characteristics The velocity potential function is defined as function of x, z and t such that when differentiated w.r.
● Wave forecasting t distance in any particular direction, it yields the velocity in that direction. i.e.,
transformations
● Wave decay
( 3.18)
Chapter 2
● Euler equation
● Wave theory Similar to stream function, at any instant is constant along any line. Hence
Chapter 3
( 3.19)
Subsituting equation 3.18 in the above, we get
Chapter 4
( 3.20)
Boundary Condition
Boundary Condition Along a φ line
● Wave Celerity
( 3.21)
Chapter 5

Comparing Equations 3.1 and 3.21, it is seen that the slope of φ line at any point is equal to the
negative reciprocal of the slope (w/u) of the line at that point.
Progressive Wave Therefore the stream lines and lines intersect each other at right angles.
Chapter 6 From Continuity equation
Period
And subsitute of equation 3.18 yields

( 3.22)
( 3.23)
Therefore function is a solution of Laplace equation.
(2.38)
Chapter 1
Bottom Boundary Condition
● Concept
● The beaches The bottom boundary is expressed in terms of F(x,y,z,t) = constant as
Z= -h(x) for a two dimensional case, F which describes the free surface can be expressed as
transformations
● Wave decay
F= Z+h(x) ( 4.2 )
Chapter 2
As F(x, y, z,t) = Constant for a free surface, it follows
● Euler equation
● Wave theory
Chapter 3

● Potential Function Theory ( 4.3 )
Chapter 4 u = ui + vj + wk ( 4.4 )
● Bottom Boundary Condition ( 4.5 )

Boundary Condition
Boundary Condition
● Wave Celerity
● Solution to a Wave Problem (4.6)
Chapter 5

● Water Particle Accelerations Sub in eqn 4.3 we have ( )
Progressive Wave
Chapter 6
Period
(4.7)
(2.38)
Chapter 1
Kinematic Free Surface Boundary Condition
● Concept
● The beaches The free surface is expressed in the form of Z = η (x, y, z, t)
i.e.
transformations
● Wave decay F (x, y, z, t) = z - η (x, y, t ) (4.8)
Chapter 2
(4.9)
● Euler equation
● Wave theory (4.10)
Chapter 3
(4.11)
Chapter 4
(4.12)
Boundary Condition
Boundary Condition
● Wave Celerity
Chapter 5
Substitute in equation 4.9 we get

● Water Particle Velocities (4.13)
● Pressure Within a (4.14)
Progressive Wave
Chapter 6
Period
(2.38)
Chapter 1
Dynamic Free Surface Boundary Condition
● Concept
● The beaches
As mentioned earlier that the fixed surfaces can withstand pressure variations whereas free
surfaces cannot. Thus the free surfaces should adjust themselves for the pressure variations and
make the condition such that the pressure on the wave surface be uniform, the Bernoulli equation.
transformations
Equation, gives details on why is negative
● Wave decay
Chapter 2
(4.15)
● Euler equation
● Bernoulli equation pn is taken as gauge pressure = 0 and Linearised boundary condition
● Wave theory
(4.16)
Chapter 3
● Stream Function Theory Solution to linearised water wave boundary value problem for a horizontal bottom
The differential equation to be satisfied in the region is the

Chapter 4
Laplace equation.
Boundary Condition (4.17)
Boundary Condition
● Wave Celerity Bottom boundary condition
Chapter 5 w= = 0 on z = -h (4.18)

Kinematic Free Surface boundary condition
Progressive Wave
(4.19)
Chapter 6
Period Dynamic Free Surface boundary condition is obtained from equation 4.16
at z = η (4.20)
(2.38)
Chapter 1
Wave Celerity
● Concept
● The beaches
● Wave Characteristics From Kinematic free surface boundary condition, with the assumption of small amplitudeness
transformations and is very small therefore neglected
● Wave decay
Chapter 2 (4.54)
● Euler equation From DFBC, we have
● Wave theory
(4.55)
Chapter 3
(4.56)
Chapter 4 Combining equations 4.54, 4.55 and 4.56, we get

● Kinematic Free Surface as z=0 (4.57)
Boundary Condition
Boundary Condition
From equation 4.50 (twice diff φ w.r.t.”t” )
● Wave Celerity
Chapter 5

wave length with depth (4.58)
Progressive Wave
Also from equation 4.50 (diff with respect to Z)
Chapter 6
● Superposition of Waves (4.59)

Period
Sub equations 4.58 and 4.59 in 4.57,
(4.60)
known as the dispersion relationship
(2.38)
Chapter 1
Solution to wave problem
● Concept
● The beaches
Solution to the above partial differential equation (4.16) is obtained by the method of variable
● Wave forecasting separable. The solution is assumed in the form of a product of terms. Each term is functions of
● Wave propagation and only one variable.
transformations
● Wave decay
(4.21)
Chapter 2
Substitute eqn 4.21in eqn 4.16
● Euler equation
● Wave theory (4.22)
Chapter 3 (4.23)

● Potential Function Theory Prime denotes the differentiation w.r.t particular independent variable
Chapter 4 Divide both sides by

(4.24)
Boundary Condition
● Dynamic Free Surface (4.25)
Boundary Condition
● Wave Celerity
● Solution to a Wave Problem It can be stated that the above ratios cannot vary and therefore can be equalled to a constant.
Chapter 5 let

(4.26)
● Pressure Within a From this two differential equations are formed
Progressive Wave
Chapter 6
(4.27)
Period The solution of these two differential equations are
(4.28)
Where ABCD are arbitrary constants
Substitute eqn 4.18 in eqn 4.13
(4.29)
As the solutions are desired which are simple harmonic in time, it is desirable to express T(t) as
or with
is periodic in time with period T
Eqn 4.29 can be expressed in four forms
(4.30)
(4.31)
(4.32)
(4.33)
Consider the first equation of the above set
(4.34)
Applying the bottom boundary condition i,e
(4.35)
(4.36)
Substitute z = -h and simplifying would lead to
(4.37)
Subsitute eqn 4.28. in eqn 4.26

<
(4.38)
(4.39)
or
(4.40)
Differentiating with respect to time t
Since DFSBC is given as
(4.41)
(4.42)
at z = 0
(4.43)
The maximum value of the wave amplitude is "a" will occur when
(4.44)
Subsituting 4.44 in 4.40

The velocity potential is therefore
(4.45)
(4.46)
k is the constant first introduced, is taken as
is known as wavelength
[ Celerity ]
(4.47)
Similarly φ2 can be derived as
(4.48)
Eqn 4.47 and eqn 4.48 lead to a new solution
(4.49)
(4.50)
Now,
(4.51)
η is periodic in x and t
If we move with wave train such that at for all time t our position relative to the wave form remains
fixed, then
= constant (4.52)
Therefore the speed with which we must move to achieve the given condition is given by
(4.53)
(2.38)
Chapter 1
Change of wave celerity and wave length with depth
● Concept
● The beaches
Wave period does not change with depth for the simple reason that in a region given with varying
● Wave forecasting depth, number of incoming and outgoing waves should be the same otherwise there would either
● Wave propagation and be an accumulation or loss of waves in the region which is not practicable.
transformations
● Wave decay Classification of waves
It is convenient to classify waves according to the ratio of water depth h and to the wave length L
Chapter 2
● Conservation of mass h / L is called the relative depth and depending on the ratio of h/L, the water depth is classified as
● Euler equation follows.
● Roatation of a fluid particle Table 5.1.1
● Wave theory
Depth Range of h/L Range of 2πh/L

Chapter 3
Shallow water 0 to 1/20

Intermediate 1/20 to 1/2

Chapter 4
● Bottom Boundary Condition Deepwater 1/2 to

Boundary Condition Variation of hyperbolic functions with respect to depth
Boundary Condition Table 5.1.2
● Wave Celerity
Function Shallow waters Deep waters
Chapter 5 sinh(kh) kh ekh/2

cosh(kh) 1 ekh/2
tanh(kh) kh 1
● Water Particle Accelerations Deep water wavelength is given as
Progressive Wave ........(5.1)
Chapter 6
Determination of wavelength for a given water depth
For the given wave period determine L0 from L0 = 1.56T2
Period
Determine wave number(k) from
Determine celerity (c) from

Determine Lnew from
Determine knew from
go to step 3
Iterate till the difference in Lprevious and Lnew is less than 0.01
Final value of L is thus obtained for the given depth
(2.38)
Chapter 1
Water particle velocities
● Concept
● The beaches The velocity potential for a progressive wave is given by equation 4.42
........(5.2)
transformations
● Wave decay
Horizontal water particle velocity

Chapter 2
● Euler equation
● Wave theory
Chapter 3 Since ,

Chapter 4

Boundary Condition
Boundary Condition
● Wave Celerity
Chapter 5
● Change of wave celerity and Similarly

● Water Particle Accelerations ........(5.6)
Progressive Wave
Chapter 6
Period
(2.38)
Chapter 1
Water particle acclerations
● Concept
● The beaches The local acceleration is given by differentiating eqn 5.4 w. r .t time
transformations
● Wave decay
Chapter 2
Similarly differentiating eqn 5.6 w.r.t time

● Euler equation
● Wave theory
Chapter 3

Chapter 4

Boundary Condition
Boundary Condition
● Wave Celerity
Chapter 5

Progressive Wave
Chapter 6
Period
(2.38)
Chapter 1
Water particle displacements
● Concept
● The beaches Horizontal displacement
transformations
● Wave decay
Substituting for u from eqn 5.3
Chapter 2
● Euler equation
● Wave theory
Chapter 3
● Stream Function Theory with

Vertical water particle displacement
Chapter 4

Boundary Condition
Boundary Condition
● Wave Celerity
Chapter 5
Using the dispersion relationship
● Water Particle Velocities ........(5.11)
● Pressure Within a Writing eqns 5.11 and 5.10 as
Progressive Wave
Chapter 6
Period
Adding eqns 5.12 and 5.13

Eqn 5.14 indicates that the water particle orbit is elliptic in nature with A and B as semi major and
minor axes.
In shallow water:
A = a/kh
B = a k(h + z) / kh
= a((h+z)/h) = a + az/h
A is independent of positional depth z.
B is dependent of positional depth z.
Therefore Max horizontal displacement is constant over the depth.
Max vertical displacement varies from zero at the bottom and to the maximum at the surface
In deep waters
A = aekz
B = aekz
The water particle orbit is circular in nature.
(2.38)
Chapter 1
Pressure within a progressive wave
● Concept
● The beaches The integrated and linear equation of motion for an irrotational motion of an incompressible fluid is
transformations
● Wave decay
Chapter 2
● Euler equation Using the expression for φ (from eqn 4.42.)
● Wave theory
Chapter 3

Chapter 4

Boundary Condition
Boundary Condition
● Wave Celerity
Chapter 5

● Water Particle Displacements The quantity is known as pressure response factor Kp
Progressive Wave
Chapter 6
Period Which is nothing but hydrostatic pressure
At z = -h
The hydrostatic pressure at the bottom is
Under the wave crest
Under the trough is negative
(2.38)
Chapter 1
Superposition of Waves
● Concept
● The beaches From eqn 4.43 we have
------ ( 6.1 )
transformations
● Wave decay
Consider the resulting surface configuration η produced by one or more than one progressive
t
Chapter 2 wave.
● Conservation of mass Due to linearity of the Laplace equation, the velocity potential φ is given by the term of potentials
● Euler equation T
of the individual waves.
● Wave theory φ = φ + φ + φ + φ ………………….+ φ -------------( 6.2 )
T 1 2 3 4 n
Chapter 3
---------------( 6.3 )
δn : Phase difference, which is arbitrary

Chapter 4
Beat Effect:
Consider two waves moving in the positive x direction but their periods are different
Boundary Condition
Boundary Condition ------------( 6.4)
● Wave Celerity
Chapter 5

Progressive Wave
Chapter 6
Period
(2.38)
Chapter 1
● Concept
● The beaches Analysis of combined wave period
● Wave
Characteristics
Consider two waves of amplitude a1 and a2 with period T1 = 12 s. and T2=8 s. If the two waves are moving in the same direction and should
● Wave forecasting result in a periodic motion, then the following condition should be satisfied i.e.
● Wave
propagation and
n T1 = T = m T2 -----------( 6.5 )
transformations
● Wave decay
n.12 = T = m .8
Chapter 2 or n=2 and m= 3
● Conservation of T= 24 Secs is the common period for the superposed waves

mass
● Euler equation Analysis of waveform (combined waveform)
● Roatation of a For the above example if a superposition of waves are drawn (assume T1=8 s. and T2 =12 s.) this would give a resultant waveform which is
fluid particle periodic wave profile with period T = 24 s. If we analyse η in the above profile (fig 6.1) there is no zero amplitude.
Tmax
● Wave theory
Pure Beat
Chapter 3
Let the amplitude of waves be a1 and a2
● Stream Function
Theory Let δ1 =δ2 = x=0
● Potential
Function Theory From eqn 6.4 we have
Chapter 4 ηt = a1 sin(-σ1t) + a2 sin( σ2t) ----- ( 6.6)
● Bottom Boundary
sin(-θ) = -sinθ
Condition
● Kinematic Free
----- ( 6.7)
Surface
Boundary
Condition add and subtract
● Dynamic Free
Surface
Boundary we get
Condition
● Wave Celerity ----------( 6.8 )
● Solution to a
Wave Problem
using the identity
Chapter 5
sinx + siny = 2 sin . cos -------------( 6.9 )
● Change of wave
celerity and wave
length with depth Sub eqn 6.9 in eqn 6.8
● Water Particle
Velocities
● Water Particle --------( 6.10 )
Accelerations
● Water Particle
Displacements
● Pressure Within a The first part of the above equation has an amplitude
Progressive
Wave
Chapter 6
For the amplitude to be zero
Waves
● Analysis of
i.e.,
Combined Wave
Period
The second term of the eqn 6.10 has the amplitude envelop which is of constant height i.e. a2-a1
For pure node to occur a2 = a1

Waves travelling in the opposite directions
For two progressive waves moving in opposite directions the expression for η can be written as
T
---------- ( 6.11)
Set δ1 = 0 for convenience

Assume that meaning that the period of waves are the same
As the depth is uniform, wavelengths would be the same i.e. k1=k2=k and σ1= σ2 = σ
----( 6.12 )
The above equation can be interpreted as representing 3 separate waves
1.
A wave with amplitude a1 moving in positive x direction
2.
A wave with amplitude a2 cosδ2 moving in negative x direction
3.
A wave with amplitude a2sinδ2 out of phase with other two waves by 900 still moving in negative x direction
Perfect reflection and the standing wave

For a perfect reflection the energy dissipated by the incoming wave is zero. Thus, the outgoing wave has the same energy. The velocity
potential for a superposed wave system can be written as
----------- ( 6.13)
Boundary condition at the vertical wall is that the horizontal velocity at the wall should be zero
Differentiating eqn 6.13 w. r . t t
------- ( 6.14 )
For uT to be zero sin(kB-σt) = sin (kB + σt + δ2)
sinkB cosσt – cos kB sin σt = sin( kB + δ2).cos σt + cos(kB+δ2) sinst ----- ( 6.15)
Equating the coefficients of sin σt and cos σt
sin kB = sin( kB+ δ2)
coskB = - cos(kB+δ2) ------- ( 6.16)
This is possible only when
δ2 = (2n+1) π - 2kB.1 ------( 6.17 )
Assume a1 = a2 = a and subsitute this value of δ yields

2
η = a sin (kx- σt) + a cos[(2n+1)π -2kB] sin(kx+σt) + a sin[(2n+1)π - 2kB] cos(kx+ σt) ------ ( 6.18)
T
----------- (6.19 )
Using trigonometric identities
sin 2 kB = 2 sin kB cos kB ----- (6.20 )
cos2kB = 2 cos2 kB – 1----- ( 6.21)
cos2kB = 1- 2 sin2kB ----- ( 6.22 )
and subsitute in eqn 6.18 we have
η = 2a sin (kB - σt) cos (kx - kB) ----- ( 6.23 )

T
In eqn 6.23 1st term is independent of x and 2nd term is independent of t
With B set to zero eqn 6.23 becomes
η = - 2 a sin σt cos kx ------( 6.24)

T
Formation of standing wave

(2.38)

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Chapter 1

● Stream Function Theory

● Change of wave celerity

Click here to view the video.

Fig. 1.2 Terminologies associated with a beach

Fig.1.3. Non monsoon profile

Fig.1.4. Monsoon profile

● Stream Function Theory

Fig.1.9. Schematic version of PNJ chart (B)

Definition of Wave Characteristics

Table 1.1.1 Computation of characteristic wave heights

Average height = 311/102 = 3.0 m.

● Stream Function Theory

● Change of wave celerity

Fig.1.12. Plunging waves

Fig.1.13. Spilling breakers

Fig.1.15. Collapsing breakers

● Stream Function Theory

● Bottom Boundary Condition

Chapter 5 Inflow of mass across side ABCD in ∆t

● Change of wave celerity and ( r is the mass density) (2.1)

The net inflow into the element is therefore

If the mass present at time t is

then at time t + ∆t according to Taylor's formula the mass present would be

Therefore net increase in mass in the element is

After expanding and rewriting the expression of the above equation,

AS for an incompressible fliud, Dρ/Dt = 0,

X, Y, Z are components of body force/unit mass in x, y and z directions at time t.

Similarly for other directions

These are Euler's equations of motion.

as it is against gravity add a negative sign

● Bottom Boundary Condition

● Change of wave celerity and

From equations 1 to 6 and A to C following equations can be obtained

Integerating with respect to x y z gives

The LHS of eqn 2.31 are identical

For steady flow disappears and for Ω subsituting gh.

● Stream Function Theory

the average velocities for the sides parallel to z axis

● Change of wave celerity

● Stream Function Theory T : Wave period

● Bottom Boundary Condition

● Change of wave celerity and

The differential equation to be satisfied in the region -h Z η and -∞ < x < ∞

is the Laplace equation

For a 3 Dimensional flow the corresponding relationship is

Streaklines, Pathlines, Streamlines

Fig.3.3. Streak lines, Pathlines, Streamlines

1. It should describe adequately the boundaries

Example: Consider an irrotational flow at a 90o corner as shown in the figure.

For this situation, description of flow can be done effectively by stating

say between = xz = 10 and = xz = 20

Subsitute in equation 3.3

Which is nothing but the total differential

The volumetric flow rate across is given by

Flow rate per unit width

For irrotational flow the condition to be satisfied is

It would be shown that for a flow to be irrotational

Subsitute for w and u

● Change of wave celerity and

Chapter 6 From Continuity equation

And subsitute of equation 3.18 yields

Therefore function is a solution of Laplace equation.