Article

2018, Vol. 47(5) 781–797

! The Author(s) 2016

Design and development Reprints and permissions:

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DOI: 10.1177/1528083716670314
of winter over coat journals.sagepub.com/home/jit

using Jute and hollow

conjugated polyester
non-woven flexible
composite

G Mohamed Zakriya1, G Ramakrishnan GR2, D Abinaya1,

Brundha Devi S1, Senthil Kumar A1 and Theyva Kumar S1

Abstract
Jute and hollow conjugated polyester fibres were blended to produce non-woven
composite by using a compressive hot pressing method having a weight of 328 g/m2.
Its blending ratios: 50/50, 60/40 and 70/30% are considered as one factor. Needling
density of non-woven fabric: 300, 150 and 75 punches/cm2 is fixed as another factor.
Thermal and mechanical properties of developed non-woven composite material such
as thermal conductivity and thermal resistance, breaking force and elongation were
tested. Among the developed 15 samples, optimal responses are shown on 50/50%
of Jute/hollow conjugated polyester fibre proportion and 150 punches/cm2 needling
density. To produce three-layered winter over coat, 50% Jute/50% hollow conjugated
polyester is selected as middle layer, polyurethane coated nylon and polyester fabric is
used as outer and inner layer fabric, respectively. This designed over coat shows the
least thermal conductivity value of 0.0195 W/m K.

Keywords
Jute, hollow conjugated polyester, blend proportion, needling density, non-woven
composite

1
Angel College of Engineering and Technology, Department of Fashion Technology, Tirupur, India
2
Kumaraguru College of Technology, Department of Fashion Technology, Coimbatore, India

Corresponding author:
G Mohamed Zakriya, Angel College of Engineering and Technology, Dharapuram Road, Tirupur 641665, India.
Email: mohamedzakriya_razvi@rediffmail.com
782 Journal of Industrial Textiles 47(5)

Introduction
High thermal resistance is important in down like winter over coat. Thermal con-
ductivity barrier is required to avoid the loss of body temperature, which regulates
the blood flow. In the same way, macro temperature in a negative degree Celsius as
mentioned in ASHRAE thermal sensation scale 3 should be restricted to enter in
a human body or else it will freeze the humans. Exposure to severe cold can lead to
cold-related symptoms and injuries, such as frostbite, hypothermia and cold-
related accidents [1,2]. The most common cold-related complaints found among
Finnish population were musculoskeletal pain and symptoms of respiratory con-
ditions, white fingers and episodic peripheral circulatory conditions [3].
Development of low thermal conductivity fabric will act as an insulator and
keep the body warm in winter prone zones. Engineered fabrics through non-woven
technology have regularly upgraded to meet the need of clothing comfort.
Especially, needle punching technology is considered to be the cheapest mode of
fabrication in engineered clothing. Traditionally, heavier and bulkier clothing is
required to protect the wearer from the thermal environment. It rises the tempera-
ture of the body by insulating against heat loss. It necessitates the wearer to put in
extra effort in carrying the weight of the clothing leads to undergo physiological
stress [4]. Commercially available winter over coat made up of leather, poly ureth-
ane foam, polyester fleece and wool are too heavy and costlier.
Jute fibre and its various blends of Jute-nonwovens were assessed for thermal
insulation property, blending of woollenized Jute gave good result [5]. Adding man-
made hollow conjugated polyester (HCP) with Jute fibre; makes the work more
interesting. In our previous research work, Jute/HCP fibre composite weighing
3280 g/m2 showed optimized thermal responses. From the response surface
method graph, 0.0193 W/m.K thermal conductivity value is predicted for contribu-
tion of Jute/HCP fibre of 54/46 parts [6]. So hereof, 1/10th part of 3280 g/m2 Jute/
HCP fibre is considered to produce light weight middle layer non-woven composite.
Winter over coat like functional cold protective clothing consists of at least three
separate layers: inner, mid and outer layers [7]. The middle layer of clothing fabric
must show the higher thermal resistance property, having trapped air in inside of
the fibres with porous fabric construction is required [8,9]. The inner layer of fabric
should be free from itching sensation [10]. The outer layer fabric should be good
enough to resist moisture accumulations, Yoo et al. attached fifth membrane layer
to the fourth fleece layer to reduce the moisture accumulation [11,12]. Selection of
protective coatings on outer layer, in conjunction with spray-applied polyurethane
coating can reduce the likelihood of moisture, water and permeability of air.

Experimental procedures
Materials
Fifteen Denier HCP fibre having length 64 mm supplied from Reliance industries
and 20 Denier Tossa 4 grade woollenized Jute having length 40–60 mm supplied
Zakriya et al. 783

from National Jute Board, Kolkata, were used to prepare the composite sample.
Some important properties of HCP and Jute fibres are presented in Table 1 [5].

Composite preparation
Jute and HCP fibres were blended into the ratios of 50/50, 60/40 and 70/30, respect-
ively, having a weight of 328 g/m2. Blended materials were processed using Dilo-
German made needle punching machine, which had a set-up of continuous process
sequence, starting from fibre opening RE 5 machine to needle loom DI-Loom
OUG-II 6 machine (Figure 1).
In a RE 5 machine, fibres were opened into small tufts and fed into card feeder.
Opener roller speed and feed percentage was set at 350 rpm and 24%. Material
received from fibre opener is passed through chute feed system, blended fibre

Table 1. Properties of HCP and Jute fibres [5].

Properties HCP Jute

Fineness (denier) 13.8  0.8 20

Density (g/m3) 1.38 1.46
Crimps (nos./cm) 1.3  0.4 2.0
Moisture regain at 65% RH (%) 0.55 12.55
Tensile strength (MPa) 58 396
Breaking elongation (%) 21.05 1.2
Hollowness (%) 18–22 –

Figure 1. Needle punching machine set up with opener, carding machine and lap layer.
784 Journal of Industrial Textiles 47(5)

material was opened and web is formed in a card feeder CFL 7 machine. Here feed
speed is limited up to 20%. Further web is passed through roller carding CAL 7
machine. The batt produced from Card feeder was opened and carded, which
produced a thin sheet of carded web. Inlet speed in carding machine was set at
0.59 m/min, cylinder speed at 125 m/min and delivery speed at 17 m/min. Produced
webs in lap layer F7/6 machine was cross laid, which formed batt by using a draft
transfer position at 2%, layering draft at 0.5% and adjusting the layering factor
from 24 to 34 according to required g/m2 of the batt material. Finally, batt is sent
to the needle punching machine – model DI-Loom OUG-II 6, working width of
600 mm with 6000 to 20,000 needles/m. Maximum 1200 strokes/min at 60 mm
penetration depth was maintained. The machine has two needle boards at down
stroke and two needle boards at upstroke placed opposite to each other. Totally, it
had four boards for double sided needling wherein, the boards had a barbed needle
dimension of 15  18  36  3.5 R/SP.
Fifteen different samples were produced including 100% of Jute and HCP fibre
composites by varying the needling density at 300, 150 and 75 punches/cm2.
Thickness of the non-woven varied depending upon the needling density. The ther-
mal insulation of the materials is almost directly related to the fabric thickness
under dry conditions [13].
Compression moulding technique is adopted to make a non-woven compos-
ite. Hot pressing temperature at 160 C was maintained to initiate the thermo
bonding process of webs and the pressing time is allowed up to 15 min. HCP
fibre is a bi-layered fibre, which consists of sheath and core. Sheath fibre layer
starts it’s melting from 110 C, whereas core fibre layer’s melting temperature is
260 C like the general polyester fibre. By regulating the pressure level at
0.25  0.02 MPa, the thickness of the composites was decided as 5.0, 5.5 and
6.5 mm for 300, 150 and 75 punches/cm2, respectively. After fabrication process,
the pressure is relaxed to collect the sample from the compression moulding
device. The thickness of the composites was ensured with thickness tester, using
ASTM D5729 procedure. Under a pressure of 1.55 kPa which had a 2.54 cm
diametre of foot and dial gauge range starting from 0.01 mm to 10.0 mm [5]
(Figure 2).
Considering 328 g/m2 of Jute/HCP fibre in composition ratio of 50/50, 60/40
and 70/30 as one factor and needling density of 300, 150 and 75 punches/cm2 as
another factor, we produced 15 samples of composites as shown in Table 2.

Measurement of air permeability

Air permeability testing can be used to provide an indication of the breathability of
weather-resistant, rainproof fabrics and coated fabrics. In general, it is used to
detect changes during the manufacturing process. Construction factors and finish-
ing techniques can have an appreciable effect upon air permeability by causing a
change in the length of airflow paths through a fabric. Hot calendaring can be used
to flatten fabric components, thus reducing air permeability. Fabrics with different
Zakriya et al. 785

Figure 2. Needle punched nonwoven composite samples.

Table 2. Design of samples.

Needling density
Sample no. Material (punches/cm2)

A1 100% Jute 300

A2 100% Jute 150
A3 100% Jute 75
B1 100% HCP 300
B2 100% HCP 150
B3 100% HCP 75
C1 50% Jute/50% HCP 300
C2 60% Jute/40% HCP
C3 70% Jute/30% HCP
D1 50% Jute/50% HCP 150
D2 60% Jute/40% HCP
D3 70% Jute/30% HCP
E1 50% Jute/50% HCP 75
E2 60% Jute/40% HCP
E3 70% Jute/30% HCP

surface textures on either side can have a different air permeability depending upon
the direction of air flow [14].
Steady flow of air perpendicularly through the test area and for adjusting the
airflow rate that preferably provides pressure differentials of between 100 and
2500 Pa (10 and 250 mm or 0.4 and 10 in. of water) between the two surfaces of
the fabric being tested. At a minimum level, the test apparatus must provide a
pressure drop of 125 Pa (12.7 mm or 0.5 in. of water) across the specimen [14].
Test specimen was placed on the test head of the instrument, and the test was
performed as specified in the manufacturer’s operating instructions, it is continued
for 10 specimens of each sample. The air permeability was determined in accord-
ance with ASTM D737.
786 Journal of Industrial Textiles 47(5)

Measurement of breaking force and elongation

ASTM D3039 tensile testing is used to measure the force required to break a fibre
reinforced composite specimen and the extent to which the specimen stretches or
elongates to that breaking point. Specimens are placed in the grips of a Universal
test machine at a specified grip separation and pulled until failure. For ASTM
D3039, the test speed can be determined by the material specification or time to
failure (1 to 10 min). A typical test speed for standard test specimen is 2 mm/min
(0.05 in/min). An extensometer or strain gauge is used to determine elongation.
Specimen size is a constant rectangular cross section, which is 25 mm wide and
250 mm long [15].

Measurement of thermal conductivity and thermal resistance

Steady state thermal conductivity (l) property is determined by heat flow metre [16]
according to ASTM C518 using a sample size 30.5 cm  30.5 cm, at a temperature
of 90 C on the upper plate and 30 C on the lower plate. The inferior plate asso-
ciation is transportable; hence, the composite sample with varying thickness and
different composition percentage of fibre can be tested [17].

T
Q ¼ lA W=ðm:KÞ ð1Þ
L

where Q = heat flow rate (W), l = thermal conductivity (W/(m.K)), A = metre

area normal to heat flow (m2),
T = temperature difference across the specimen
(K) and L = in-situ specimen thickness (m).
According to EN ISO 6946, the thermal resistance achieved for a constructional
layered composite was obtained by dividing the thickness (T) [18] by the thermal
conductivity value of a non-woven composite:


R ¼ T=l m2 :K =W ð2Þ

The air permeability, breaking force, elongation percentage, thermal conductiv-

ity and thermal resistance of 15 composites samples made of 100% Jute fibre,
100% HCP fibre and different composition of Jute/HCP fibre are given in
Table 3. The average of 10 readings was noted for accuracy purpose.

Result and discussion

Influence of air permeability on flexible composite
From Figure 3, 100% Jute composite material has shown highest air permeability.
Next to that, 70/30 composition sample and 100% HCP has shown least value. Air
trapped HCP fibre with its high bulkiness reduces the air permeability. Reduction
Zakriya et al. 787

Table 3. Thermal and mechanical properties of needle punched non-woven composite.

Air permeability (cm3/s/cm2) Thermal Thermal

Sample Breaking Elongation conductivity resistance
no. Non-woven Composite force (N) (%) (W/m K) (m2 K/W)

A1 4.64 4.25 22.75 22.50 0.0445 0.1123

A2 4.57 4.18 22.35 21.54 0.0345 0.1739
A3 4.50 4.08 22.75 20.18 0.0371 0.1752
B1 3.84 2.19 27.26 32.23 0.0189 0.2645
B2 3.60. 2.10 25.98 31.42 0.0173 0.3468
B3 3.38 1.99 24.12 30.52 0.0196 0.3316
C1 4.38 3.18 25.30 28.37 0.0328 0.1524
C2 4.32 3.20 25.10 28.02 0.0335 0.1492
C3 4.25 3.26 25.00 28.02 0.0378 0.1322
D1 4.06 3.07 25.00 27.89 0.0271 0.2214
D2 4.13 3.15 24.71 27.53 0.0280 0.2142
D3 4.17 3.21 24.71 27.18 0.0285 0.2105
E1 3.89 3.05 24.32 26.35 0.0291 0.2233
E2 3.95 3.11 24.32 26.33 0.0296 0.2195
E3 4.05 3.18 24.22 26.30 0.0296 0.2027

Figure 3. Air permeability of needle punched non-woven flexible composite.

in HCP fibre percentage increases the air permeability. Generally, the lowest air
permeable fabric shows lowest thermal conductivity. Gas conductivity is reduced
by pore size of the material [19]. In all, 300 punches/cm2 of flexible composite
comparatively show higher air permeability than 150 and 75 punches/cm2 needling
788 Journal of Industrial Textiles 47(5)

density. In Table 3, compared with non-woven material, composite material shows

less air permeable because at the time of compression moulding, sheath part of
HCP fibre melted and it covers the needling holes of fabric. Externally, no resin is
utilized in this process. Just bonds are created by hot compression moulding at
0.25 MPa pressure is a reason for obtaining flexible composite.

Influence of breaking force and elongation

From Figure 4, 100% Jute material shows less breaking force value. At the time of
compression moulding process, the fibre does not bond itself. For a short time, it is
in the form of compressed state. After a while, it returns back to its original state.
Hundred percent HCP fibre composite shows good breaking force value because of
high melted content over on the composite material. After a while, it returns to
bulkier and unstable form. But Jute/HCP blended fibre composite stability varies
based on the needling density and parts of HCP fibre content. Among the com-
bination sample, the one composed of 50/50 and 150 needling density shows high-
est values of breaking force and remain in the same form, with the less air
permeable compared with 300 needling density sample. Breaking force of compos-
ite material ensures a mechanical stability attributes.
From Figure 5, 100% HCP material shows highest elongation percentage.
Among the combination sample, the ‘300 needling density’ material shows good
elongation. The sample composed of 150 needling density and 50/50 proportion
show good elongation percentage when compared with the rest of the samples.
Contribution of HCP fibre percentage based; at the time of compression moulding
process, melted content (sheath) over composite and the needling density of a
sample determines the elongation of the material.

Figure 4. Breaking force of needle punched non-woven composite.

Zakriya et al. 789

Figure 5. Elongation percentage of needle punched non-woven composite.

Influence of thermal conductivity and thermal resistance

From Figure 6, 100% HCP material shows lowest thermal conductivity. Among
the proportion samples, 50/50 shows least thermal conductivity values. Considering
the needling density of the sample 150 had the least thermal conductivity values.
Air trapped HCP fibre and voids in Jute fibre reduce the convective thermal trans-
fer of material [20]. Seventy-five needling density material with its low density
batting regulate the thermal transfer by absorbing and scatter the radiation
within the batting [21]. Loose bulky structure radiates the thermal transfer more
than moderate density batting. Therefore, ‘150 needling density’ sample shows the
lowest thermal conductivity values. The ‘300 needling density’ composite material
has more permeable compared with 75 and 150 needling density. High permeability
improves the thermal conductivity of the composite material.
From Figure 7, 100% HCP material shows highest thermal resistance. Among
the proportion samples, 50/50 shows highest thermal resistance values. Considering
the needling density of the sample 150 needling density possess the highest thermal
resistant values. Depends upon the needling density and thickness of the material,
the thermal resistance is varied. Batting construction and thickness determine the
thermal insulation of the composite structure [22].

Statistical analysis
Considering the two factor needling density and proportion of the material, the
ANOVA test is performed. Two factor without replication model selected for each
response is compared with 15 samples and its p value noted. Less than 0.05 value of
p indicates all the responses have significant effects. The needling density,
790 Journal of Industrial Textiles 47(5)

Figure 6. Thermal conductivity of needle punched non-woven composite.

Figure 7. Thermal resistance of needle punched non-woven composite.

proportion and combination of the material, mass per unit area and its batting
construction are the parameters having significant effect on thermal and mechan-
ical strength of the composites [23]. From Figures 3 to 7 error bar with standard
error at 95% confident level, ensured the significant differences of the sample
(Table 4).
 Zakriya et al.

Table 4. The two factor ANOVA without replication model of non-woven composite.

Source of Sum of Degree of

Response variation squares freedom Mean square F value p-value F critical Result

Air permeability Jute/HCP proportion 0.045053 2 0.022527 26.71146 0.000288 4.45897 Significant
Needling density 6.491533 4 1.622883 1924.368 5.8  1012 3.837853 Significant
Breaking force Jute/HCP proportion 0.033693 2 1.61528 4.33442 0.053056 4.45897 Significant
Needling density 0.168573 4 4.052323 10.873952 0.00255 3.837853 Significant
Breaking elongation Jute/HCP proportion 9.125493 2 4.562747 132.8439 7.3  1007 4.45897 Significant
Needling density 152.8523 4 38.21308 1112.57 5.18  1011 3.837853 Significant
Thermal conductivity Jute/HCP proportion 0.000109 2 5.43  105 13.40096 0.002792 4.45897 Significant
Needling density 0.000629 4 0.000157 38.81254 2.77  1005 3.837853 Significant
Thermal resistance Jute/HCP proportion 0.016257 2 0.008128 305.5428 2.79  1008 4.45897 Significant
Needling density 0.045569 4 0.011392 428.2401 2.33  1009 3.837853 Significant
791
792 Journal of Industrial Textiles 47(5)

Table 5. Comparison of overcoats.

Thermal resistance
Sample no. Type of material Weight of material value (m2 K/W) Reference

1 Kapok coats made up 170 to 197 g (filling 0.330 to 0.349

of six polyester layers weight alone)
2 Kapok coat made up 431 g (filling 0.366
of six polyester layers weight alone) [25]
3 Duckling down coat 160 to 226 g (filling 0.335 to 0.359
weight alone)
4 Polyester fleece 627 g (weight of 0.185 Tested
coat) value
5 Leather and foam 736 g (weight of 0.192 Tested
coat) value
D1 Jute/HCP middle layer 328 g/m2 (weight of 0.315 Research
with polyurethane middle layer of work
coated nylon and non-woven flexible
polyester composite alone)

Figure 8. Three-layer fabric formation.

Application of needle punched non-woven composite

Optimum range of values is shown by 50/50 of 150 needling density of Jute/poly-
ester nonwoven composite material. Therefore, D1 sample is considered for the
fabrication of the winter over coat. D1 non-woven composite material selected as
middle layer and close satin woven nylon fabric coated with polyurethane selected
for outer layer, are the reasons for high water and moisture resistant property.
Close satin woven polyester fabric selected as inner layer of winter over coat. The
three layers of fabric joined together and stitched with nylon sewing thread by
maintaining the stitches per inch of 10 using lock stitch.
Zakriya et al. 793

(a)

(b)

Figure 9. Design and development of winter coat using pattern engineering concept drafting
procedure [24]. (a) Front bodice, (b) back bodice, (c) sleeve and (d) hood.

Middle layer of nonwoven flexible composite material is shaped into pattern,

due to its shaping activity weight is considerably reduced. Size and shape of winter
overcoat responsible for total weight of the coat. Instead of filling the material in
between the inner and outer layer of commercial available coat, this method
reduces the weight and improves the durability.
794 Journal of Industrial Textiles 47(5)

(c)

(d)

Figure 9. Continued.

In this Table 5, kapok, duckling, polyester fleece, leather and foam coats filling
weight alone discussed. After some regular usage of these kinds of coats, filling
material move towards some corner of coats causes shape of coat collapsed.
Sample D1 is 328 g/m2 with negligible weight of inner and outer layer fabric
shows good thermal resistance value.
Zakriya et al. 795

Figure 10. Three-layered winter over coat made up of needle punched non-woven flexible
composite.

Conclusion
Thermal and mechanical properties of developed nonwoven composite material
such as thermal conductivity, thermal resistance, breaking force and elongation
were studied in this article. Among these 15 composite materials, sample D1 having
the weight of 328 g/m2, 50/50 parts of contribution of Jute/HCP fibre with 150
punches/cm2 needling density is found to attain the optimal responses. Sample D1
is used as a middle layer in making of winter over coat.
The developed winter over coat with polyurethane coated nylon fabric in outer
layer with an inner layer of polyester fabric shows lowest thermal conductivity
value of 0.0195 W/m K. Compared with existing products, the produced winter
over coat weight is reduced. Adaptation of natural fibre in winter over coat reduces
the black foots of ecology. Sustainable development may be attained through by
needle punching and hot pressing of composite material leads to least polluting
manufacturing process.
This kind of three-layer garment with the application of different material on
outer layer and in inner layer fabric along with the developed composite sample D1
is selected according to end use. Based on geographical and climatic condition of
places, choices are to be made and efforts are to be taken to attain the wearer
comfort. In future, application of this kind of flexible composite extends and
emerges as a scope for technical clothing sector.

Declaration of Conflicting Interests

The author(s) declared no potential conflicts of interest with respect to the research, author-
ship, and/or publication of this article.
796 Journal of Industrial Textiles 47(5)

Funding
The author(s) received no financial support for the research, authorship, and/or publication
of this article.

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