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balls, and weekend hunts. Edward and Alexandra about five years after Edward's death, ending with
also took up the social duties of charity events, the harsh realities brought on by the onset of World
exhibition openings, and other functions that War I. During this timespan, 1880-1915, a certain
required representation by the crown. Because way of wearing jewelry evolved to suit the pomp
England was a dominant world power and because and splendor of the royal court. Much of this jewel-
the heads of state of many other European coun- ry had specific design elements and materials that
tries, including Russia and Prussia, were linked to set them apart as pieces worn by this privileged
England by marriage, Edward's influence extended class (figure 1).
far beyond the British Isles. The lifestyle that he Many terms have been used to describe the
and Alexandra established for themselves-and style of jewelry of this time. Fin de siecle, French for
that was adopted by others in the upper classes of "end of the century," is a fairly broad designation
England, Europe, and America-continued for that could encompass any of the styles made during
used: strawberry leaves (which denote ducal rank; the head. Made of flexible platinum sections set
Debrett's Peerage, 1952); shamrocks; thistle heads; with diamonds, bandeaux were tied with ribbons at
roses, daisies, and other flowers; as well as flower- the back of the head to fit snugly. Bandeaux were
ing garlands and wreaths tied up with flowing rib- sometimes designed in a streamlined, geometric
bons. The sun tiara was another grand style similar pattern, foreshadowing the Art Deco period of the
to a lzolzoshnik: diamond-set platinum spikes radi- 1920s, when bandeaux were the most popular form
ating in a fan shape from a large diamond set in the of headdress.
center. The wealthy industrial families of America, Feathered head ornaments have long syinbol-
such as the Vanderbilts, Morgans, Goulds, and ized rank and status. They became important in
Rockefellers, came late to the style of wearing Europe in the 17th century, and by the 19th century
tiaras and did their best t o outdo Europe in wearing feathers was mandatory for presentation at
grandeur. They felt that tiaras were an excellent court in England. Interaction with exotic Eastern
outward expression of financial clout: the more cultures further stimulated the fashion, and by the
impressive the better (Nadelhoffer, 1984). 1890s, aigrettes were popular for evening dress at
Tiaras continued to be worn in Great Britain other than formal court presentations (Nadelhoffer,
and the United States until 1915, even though on 1984).Aigrettes were made of feather plumes from
the continent after 1910 they were superseded in the Egyptian egret [hence, the derivation of the
popularity by the bandeau and the aigrette. These name), although ostrich or bird-of-paradise feathers
two styles were considered more modern and less were also used. These plumes were held in a jew-
formal than the tiara, with the added advantage of eled mounting that could be fastened to a tiara
being lighter in weight, so they were more comfort- (Nadelhoffer, 1984). During the later years of the
able (Bury, 1991). Bandeaux were generally worn Edwardian era, they were also adapted to attach to
straight across the forehead rather than on top of narrow bandeaux so they could be worn with the
neclzlaces were sometimes fashioned so they could The rest of society copied her and the fashion took
also be worn as tiaras (again, see figure 8). Another hold. Even though they are uncomfortable, dog col-
favored accessory of the elegant Edwardian lady was lars remained popular through 1915 (Hinlzs, 1983).
the riviere, a necklace of gems (usually diamonds) The most common type was a gem-set plaque, also
set singly in either collets or openwork gallery laown as a pluc~ue-de-cou,2-4 ins. (5-10 cm) wide
mountings, typically graduated from a large center that was worn on a wide ribbon of blaclz velvet or
stone. This fashion, initiated in the 1700s, was the held snugly by a multi-strand pearl choker with
ideal way to display many large, fine gems in a narrow diamond spacers (again, see figures 9 and
grand show of wealth (figure 11). However, the 10).Occasionally, dog collars were made entirely of
necklace that is by far the most evocative of the hinged platinum sections set with diamonds and
Edwardian period is the cholzer-or "dog collar," as other accent gems (figure 12).Fit for dog collars was
it was generally known (Bennett and Mascetti, crucial. If they were too loose, the neclzlacc would
1989).The 18th-century fashion of wearing a ribbon sag and the effect would be ruined; if they were too
around the neck was reintroduced in Paris in the tight, the wearer would have difficulty breathing or
mid-19th century, when wide ribbons, usually swallowing (Bury, 1991).
blaclz velvet or moire silk, were worn and common- Dog collars were frequently worn together with
ly decorated with a brooch or locket. Princess other neclzlaces, most commonly long strands (also
Alexandra further popularized chokers, which she known as sautoirs) of pearls, which often hung to or
wore to conceal a scar on her neck (Field, 1987). below the waist. Depending on their length, these
small purse, watch, or lorgnette (Hinlzs, 1983). unmatched gems, such as a black and a white pearl,
These accessories would often be enameled to a diamond and a pearl, or an outstanding diamond
match one another and the sautoir on which they with another gem of similar quality (Scarisbrick,
were suspended (figure 14). 1989).
After 1900, the Lavalliere, Edna May, and neg- The plaque pendant also appeared about this
ligee pendant necklaces were fashionable. The time. For this style, a round, flat sheet of platinum
Lavalliere was named for the actress Eve Lavalliere, was finely saw-pierced in a honeycomb lattice or a
who adopted the name of Louise de La Valliere, symmetrical radiating motif and then set with dia-
mistress to Louis XIV of France. It consists of a sin- monds. This pendant would be suspended from a
gle gem-cut ill a round, oval, or pear shape-that sautoir of woven pearls or spectacle-set diamonds.
is suspended as a drop from a chain (Newman, The exquisite quality of the saw-piercing, which
1981). The Edna May, named for a famous opera increased in fineness as the period advanced, identi-
singer of the time, is a larger single gem suspended fies jewels made between 1909 and 1915.
from a smaller single gem or cluster of gems on a Occasionally, the pendant would come with inter-
chain. Variations on this theme might include changeable guilloche-enameled discs in different
more than one gem suspended in a line as the cen- colors, which could be fastened behind the saw-
tral element. The negligee necklace incorporates pierced platinum plaque to match the color of a par-
two large stones or gem-set motifs suspended at ticular dress (Hinks, 1983). Sometimes the plaque
unequal lengths from a chain. The negligee neck- shape would be an elongated lozenge or a drooping
lace was an ideal way to display two exceptional, triangle, representative of a folded handkerchief.
or clovers; cherubs, kittens, ducks, chickens, pigs, jewelry, especially for evening. In addition to the
and monkeys anthropomorphically portrayed play- tiaras, dog collars, rivieres, and sautoirs that were
ing together; and bugs, particularly butterflies, set customary for dress occasions, women usually wore
in jeweled pins. The swallow and the dove were the large, elaborate bodice ornaments which were often
most popular bird motifs with the Edwardian set. sewn directly to the dress rather than fastened with
These pins also sported an eclectic mix of anchors a conventional clasp. These bodice ornaments were
(symbolic of hope), arrows (symbolic of Cupid or of three types: corsage ornaments (also known as
Diana), the caduceus (symbolic of Mercury), feath- devant de corsages), stomachers, and epaulettes.
ers, daggers, violins, harps, and lyres (Bennett and Corsage ornaments, the smallest of the three, were
Mascetti, 1989; Hinlzs, 1983). A heart surmounted generally worn to embellish the low neclzline of the
by a coronet or a ribbon bow is a signature motif of dress, either centered or attached to one side (figure
the garland style, and was frequently used in 16). Sometimes they took the guise of a fringe of
brooches, as well as in bracelets and rings (see figure platinum and diamonds that spanned the neckline
6). Quite versatile, such novelty jewels could be from shoulder to shoulder (Scarisbrick, 1989). The
worn in lesser amounts during the day. stonlacher, a jewel borrowed from the 18th-century
The bar brooch, introduced in the 1890s) was rococo style, covered the area from the clkcolletage
another success for both day and evening wear. A to the waist. Also known as a sevigne, this type of
straight line of millegrain platinum set with cali- jewel was usually wide at the top and tapered down
brated rubies, emeralds, or sapphires with diamonds toward the waistline (Bury, 1991). Epaulettes were
was the most elegant version. However, simple bar commonly worn on the shoulders and usually had
brooches of gold with rounded terminals embel- long, narrow, drop-shaped pendants called aiguil-
lished at the center with novelty or sporting motifs lettes. Sometimes epaulettes were connected to
were commonly worn with day attire (see figure each other by diamond rivieres. These might be
14). Women were also becoming more active in worn with one epaulette pinned to a shoulder and
outdoor activities, and this was reflected in many of the other at the waist, with the rivieres draped
the novelty brooches they wore: bicycles, riding across the breast like a sash. However, bodice orna-
crops, golf clubs, or tennis racquets, for example ments were quite heavy and depended on the cloth-
(Armstrong, 1973). ing for support. As clothing fashions relaxed after
The Juliet brooch-two gemstones on either 1910 and the rigid bodice was replaced by a softer,
end of a stick pin with a chain loop to connect the looser garment, most of these heavy jewels were
two ends-was introduced by the Association of put away or broken up and remade to suit the new,
Diamond Merchants in 1906. This popular jabot less confining styles (Nadelhoffer, 1984).
pin (i.e., one used to secure lace or a scarf wrapped
around the throat) often incorporated diamonds or
baroque-shaped pearls or other fine single colored Earrings, Buckles, Bracelets, and Rings. For the
stones (again, see figure 6; Hinlzs, 1983). Edwardian lady, both day- and evening-wear ear-
Between 1900 and 1910, women wore a lot of rings were more subdued than they had been earlier
favorite snake bracelet that she often wore over remained popular to this day. Cross-over rings were
gloves for evening. She is portrayed wearing it in designed with two fine stones, usually a diamond
several photos and portraits (see cover]. Link and a fine ruby, emerald, or sapphire, set on a diago-
bracelets of gold or diamond-set platinum were also nal opposing one another on the shank. Marquise or
fashionable (again, see figure 1). Wristwatches, navette-shaped rings were very fashionable during
developed by Cartier as early as 1888, were com- the Edwardian period. Sometimes round stones
mercially available after 1910, although they were studded a marquise-shaped mounting (again,see fig-
something of a novelty (Nadelhoffer, 1984). Some ure 17);in other examples, the stone itself was mar-
early examples were in platinum with bands of quise or navette shaped. Another favorite style of
pave diamonds or black moire ribbon. the time was one or two pear-shaped stones mount-
Like bracelets, rings were also worn several at a ed to look as if they were tied with a heart-shaped
time, and the gem-set half-hoop rings were as popu- ribbon bow surmounted by a crown (Bennett and
lar as their bangle-bracelet counterpart. The cross- Mascetti, 1989).Gypsy-set rings, with the gems set
over ring was introduced in the 1890s and has flush with the domed metal shank, continued to be
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