FASHION :

Fashion is a popular aesthetic expression in a certain time and context, especially

in clothing, footwear, lifestyle, accessories, makeup, hairstyle and body
proportions. Whereas, a trend often connotes a very specific aesthetic expression, and often
lasting shorter than a season, fashion is a distinctive and industry-supported expression
traditionally tied to the fashion season and collections. Style is an expression that lasts over
many seasons, and is often connected to cultural movements and social markers, symbols,
class and culture.
ORIGIN OF FASION :
Fashion designing can be loosely defined as 'the art of creating fashionable apparel'.
The origin of fashion designing dates as far back as 1826. Charles Frederick Worth is
believed to be the first fashion designer in the world, from 1826 to 1895. Charles, who was
earlier a draper, set up a fashion house in Paris.
EVOLUTION OF FASHION INUSTRY TILL NOW

Fashion industry
The notion of global fashion industry is a product of the modern age. Prior to the mid-19th
century, most clothing was custom-made. It was handmade for individuals, either as home
production or on order from dressmakers and tailors. By the beginning of the 20th century—
with the rise of new technologies such as the sewing machine, the rise of global capitalism
and the development of the factory system of production, and the proliferation of retail
outlets such as department stores—clothing had increasingly come to be mass-produced in
standard sizes and sold at fixed prices.

The fashion industry consists of four levels:

the production of raw materials, principally fibres and textiles but also leather and fur.
the production of fashion goods by designers, manufacturers, contractors, and others.
retail sales.
various forms of advertising and promotion.
These levels consist of many separate but interdependent sectors. These sectors are Textile
Design and Production, Fashion Design and Manufacturing, Fashion Retailing, Marketing
and Merchandising, Fashion Shows, and Media and Marketing. Each sector is devoted to the
goal of satisfying consumer demand for apparel under conditions that enable participants in
the industry to operate at a profit.
FASHION INDUSRTY STATISTICS OF INDIA
According to the Indian Brand Equity Foundation (IBEF):
“The close linkage of the textile industry to agriculture (for raw materials such
as cotton) and the ancient culture and traditions of the country in terms of textiles make
the Indian textiles sector unique in comparison to the industries of other countries”.
The Indian textile industry is estimated around:
The textile industry is also one of the largest contributors to India’s export with
approximately 13.5 percent of total export amounting 42.24 billion dollars.
108 billion dollar expected to reach 223 billion dollar by 2021.
The industry also employs over 45 million people directly to 60 million peopl e
indirectly.
The Indian Textile Industry contributes approximately 5% to India’s gross domestic
product (GDP), and 14 % overall Index of Industrial Production (IIP).
Annual consumer expenditure on footwear and clothing: 68 billion dollars .
Fashion Companies
Company name: Market value Annual revenue Company
type
Aditya Birla Fashion and 3 billion 400 million dollars(Rs40 Public
Retail dollar crores)
Vardhman Group 1.7 billion 1.1 billion dollars Public
dollar
Arvind Limited 1.6 billion 850 million dollars(Rs 85 Public
dollar crores)
Raymond Limited 1 billion 800 million dollars(Rs 80 Public
dollar crores)
Q: How does fashion relate to our sense of identity?

It’s different for everyone – often in our teens and early 20’s you want to be part of a
group and are influenced by what your friends wear, the style of the bands you like, the films
you are into, your cultural background. As you mature this tends to fall away – you dress
more for yourself, your style evolves and you understand what suits you. We are complex as
individuals and fashion caters for all our needs so differently. This is what’s so great about
fashion – ultimately it’s whatever you want it to be.

Q: How does fashion relate to wider culture?

In modern fashion, it’s interesting to see how designers are inspired by the visual arts
and music. Yves Saint Laurent was inspired by the world of art… Mondrian… ballet and all
those things. It was considered a wildly inventive and interesting way of expressing style and
design. I think it’s virtually impossible for any designer to not be influenced by wider culture,
everything is so entwined.

Fashion is critically important in music. I was in one of my stores last night and there
was a band getting ready. They needed an outfit for a show, and wanted to wear something
different- they said everyone wears the same black t-shirt, and they wanted to make a
statement. The music industry loves fashion. Musicians need to look good and express
themselves, fashion allows them to achieve that.

Q: What is the relationship between aesthetics and beauty to fashion?

They are intrinsically linked, as beauty and fashion are totally subjective.

I don’t think fashion has to be beautiful at all. In fact, the most interesting kinds of
fashion are those ideas that really stray from our notions of classical beauty.
Classical beauty is classic for a reason! We’ve seen it, we understand it and we’re familiar
with it. When designers like Rick Owens express an interest in those aesthetics that make us
uncomfortable, confuse us or surprise us- I think the questions they raise are provocative.
They force us to really think about our culture, what we value and why. They even force us to
think of who we’re devaluing because of those choices.

We all respond to beauty and what we understand to be beautiful. That’s why it’s
important for fashion to explore all types of beauty. Without this exploration, some people
will be inherently devalued- seeming not to count as beautiful- and not being afforded the
advantages which may be given to someone perceived as ‘classically‘ beautiful.

Of course there’s a relationship between beauty and fashion, that can be positive or
negative.
Q: What is the relationship between sex, sexuality and fashion?

For a lot of women, there is this concern that by simply participating in fashion- they
are allowing someone else to turn them into sexual objects. Another school of thought states
that fashion is a way of taking hold of your sexuality and presenting it in the manner of your
choosing. To me that’s the beauty of fashion and its relationship to sexuality.

Q: Is fashion an art form?

There are many aspects of fashion that are artful but I tend to believe that fashion is
not an art in the sense that music, painting or sculpture might be considered as such. For me
the distinction is that none of those things have to serve a practical purpose. The sole purpose
of a beautiful sculpture may be to inspire. There are designer who certainly work in that
realm where you could argue their work is inspirational and it’s ok if nobody really wears
it…. but to me the exceptional designer is the one who creates something that is inspiring and
wearable… and that’s much more difficult.

Q: What is the role of the ‘icon’ in fashion?

An icon is a constant beacon in the ever changing face of fashion.

This word ‘icon’ has been thrown around a little too much and the meaning has been
drained a bit, somewhat like the word ‘hero’. An icon stands for something immutable and
very few people, particularly in fashion, are that… Fashion is about change.

Q: How does the political and economic zeitgeist influence fashion?

Years ago, I recall talking to people including Gianni Versace and the heads of some
major retailers about how fashions differ around the world. I was really struck by thought that
some of the most exuberant and embellished clothing found its greatest audience in places
like the middle-east. You have these stories of women who have dinner parties and lunches
with their female friends…. They arrive and underneath their burqa or hijab is this rainbow of
colour! It does seem to suggest that when circumstances require you to be subdued, there is a
natural human tendency to express a sense of adventure, pleasure and joy in some way.

Q: Does fashion have the capacity to influence our mood and emotions?

Absolutely! If you ask a woman what she might do if she needed a little pick-me-up?
chances are they will say, “a new pair of shoes!” or “a new lipstick!“. It’s a manifestation of
the fact that people feel better about themselves if they feel they look good. There are all sorts
of programmes that support women who are dealing with cancer treatments where the sole
purpose is to give them a makeover or- for example- produce wigs. Fashion even in these
extreme circumstances has the powerful ability to make people feel better about themselves.
I also think about fashion shows in this sense. There are terrible images of some over-
wrought fashion editors getting all weepy about fashion show’s they’ve seen… and while
I’ve never wept at a fashion show, there are certainly occasions where a designer has been
extraordinarily skilled at presenting their work through music, setting, choice of models and
the progression of their collection- evoking a kind of poetry and makes the audience feel
what it would be like to wear those clothes on their most wonderful day. That’s what people
mean when they say they found a show to be emotional…. The designer has been able to use
the clothes and the elements of the show to tell a story.

Q: Does fashion need to have ethics?

Corporations and their customers are in it together. Customers who have grown
accustomed to getting a $10 t-shirt can sign all the petitions they want demanding better
labour practices, but if they’re not willing to pay $20 for the t-shirt? all you’re going to do is
put a company out of business. You are yelling into the wilderness. Some of the onus is
therefore on the customer- they have to be willing to spend more and look harder for the
products which they feel are made in a politically correct way.

Companies are not charitable organisations or NGOs, they are commercial

endeavours. Their goal is to make a profit. I do think they have a responsibility to be
respectful of whatever community they’re in, respectful of their employees and to be good
corporate citizens. There are people who argue however, that they should be acting like
caretakers. They are asking corporations to do something they were never meant to do and
frankly, don’t have the responsibility to do.

Q: What has been the impact of the internet and globalisation on fashion?

It’s opened up fashion to so many more people creating greater demand, ever
increasing awareness, widening of the luxury market and offering exposure to a greater mix
of cultural influences.

The internet has democratised fashion as information is much more widely available. The
industry has become more exposed and fashion as a whole less elitist especially with social
media allowing anyone to have a voice and critic

Q: What have been the biggest changes in fashion over the past quarter century, and
what do you think the future holds?

The biggest change so far has been the move towards fashion becoming a global
business. I was enthusiastically covering the Gucci vs. LVMH brouhaha in early 2000- it was
a period where fashion was transforming into an industry with a real corporate structure. It
was increasingly the case that independent designers would not be able to build the kind of
businesses that were previously possible- to go from the tie-maker like Ralph Lauren and
transform it into a massive global brand. I don’t know if that’s necessarily a bad thing, it
depends on the structure and desires of the individual corporation.