National Institute of Fashion Technology

Department
Of
Fashion Management Studies

FABRIC KNOWLEDGE FOR MERCHANDISER

ASSIGNMENT I

ANIMAL FIBER
[ALPACA, ANGORA, CASHMERE, MOHIAR, VICUNA]

Submitted by,

Deeti Chavda

Mudita Manjari

Sakshi Gupta

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 INDEX

Serial Title Page Number

Number
1 Introduction 1-4
2 Alpaca 5-9
3 Angora 10-14
4 Cashmere 15-19
5 Mohair 20-23
6 Vicuna 24-27
7 References 27

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 INTRODUCTION TO ANIMAL FIBER

Animal fibers are largely those which cover mammals such as sheep, goats and rabbits
with well-known examples such as alpaca, merino, wool, fur and mohair.

Animal fibers are natural fibers that consist largely of particular proteins. Instances are
silk, hair/fur (including wool) and feathers. The animal fibers used most commonly both in the
manufacturing world as well as by the hand spinners are wool from domestic sheep and silk.
Also very popular are alpaca fiber and mohair from Angora goats. Unusual fibers such as Angora
wool from rabbits and Chiengora from dogs also exist, but are rarely used for mass production.

Not all animal fibers have the same properties, and even within a species the fiber is not
consistent. Merino is very soft, fine wool, while Cotswold is coarser, and yet both merino and
Cotswold are types of sheep. Such comparison can be continued on the microscopic level,
comparing the diameter and structure of the fiber. With animal fibers, and natural fibers in
general, the individual fibers look different, whereas all synthetic fibers look the same. This
provides an easy way to differentiate between natural and synthetic fibers under a microscope.

Wool from sheep is the most common animal fiber and is used widely in fabrics of many
different types. There are, however, many different animal fiber types which are manufactured
into both luxury and commodity fabrics. Fiber producing animals include angora rabbits, goats
and camelids (alpaca, llamas and camels). Each animal breed produces fiber types with different
qualities.

In order to be suitable for the commercial processing of animal fiber into fabric, the
individual fibers need to be of a certain grade and consistent quality. The most luxurious fibers
are fine, long and smooth. These give a silky appearance and are soft and warm to wear. Most
animals regardless of how fine their coats are will have some more coarse fibers; they are known
as guard hairs and are removed as part of the preparation process. This is known as dehairing.

Coarse fibers, although making a sturdy and robust fabric, are not comfortable to wear
and are more typically used for the making of yarn for rugs and carpets rather than for clothes.
The cost of processing these coarse fibers, compared with the low end value, makes them
unattractive to commercial producers.

Animal fibers are known as protein fibers and are dyed using acid dyes. They take dye
well and are available in a variety of vibrant colors. The process of bleaching fibers weakens and
damages them; therefore animals bred for their fiber are typically white. There are exceptions to
this; the alpaca is bred in 18 different color types, meaning a wide range of naturally colored
fibers are available.

Below is the major animal fiber producing countries in the world.

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 FIBER MAJOR PRODUCERS PRODUCTION

Alpaca Peru 4,000 tons

Angora China-France 8,500 tons
Cashmere China-Iran 5,000 tons
Llama Bolivia 600 tons

Mohair South Africa-USA (Texas)-Turkey 22,000 tons

Vicuna Peru 3 tons
Wool New Zealand-Austraila-South Africa 1,851,000 tons

EVALUATING ANIMAL FIBER:

There are four factors to consider when evaluating an animal fiber:

• Scales—on the surface of the fiber, scales affect softness and luster
• Fineness—the fiber diameter (the thinner the hair, the softer the yarn)
• Staple length—how long the hair is (shorter fibers are softer, but longer fibers are more
durable in yarn)
• Crimp—the structure of the hair (straighter hair spins into a yarn with more bounce and
warmth, but curlier hair spins denser and stronger)

ALPACA

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 Alpaca (Vicugna pacos) is a domesticated species of South American camelid. It
resembles a small llama in appearance.

Alpacas are kept in herds that graze on the level heights of the Andes of southern Peru,
northern Bolivia, Ecuador, and northern Chile at an altitude of 3,500 m (11,500 ft.) to 5,000 m
(16,000 ft.) above sea-level, throughout the year. Alpacas are considerably smaller than llamas,
and unlike llamas, alpacas were not bred to be beasts of burden but were bred specifically for
their fiber. Alpaca fiber is used for making knitted and woven items, much as wool is. These
items include blankets, sweaters, hats, gloves, scarves, a wide variety of textiles and ponchos in
South America, and sweaters, socks, coats and bedding in other parts of the world. The fiber
comes in more than 52 natural colors as classified in Peru, 12 as classified in Australia and 16 as
classified in the United States.

In the textile industry, "alpaca" primarily refers to the hair of Peruvian alpacas, but more
broadly it refers to a style of fabric originally made from alpaca hair but now often made from
similar fibers, such as mohair, Icelandic sheep wool, or even high-quality English wool.

It is warmer than sheep's wool and lighter in weight. It is soft, fine, glossy, and luxurious.
The thickness of quality fiber is between 12-29 micrometers. Most alpaca fiber is white, but it
also comes in various shades of brown and black.

Background

Alpacas have been domesticated for thousands of years. There are no known wild
alpacas, though it is the closest living relative of vicuña (also native to South America), are
believed to be the wild ancestor of the alpaca. The alpaca is larger than the vicuña, but smaller
than the other camelid species.

Along with camels and llamas, alpacas are classified as camelids. Of the various camelid
species, the alpaca and vicuña are the most valuable fiber-bearing animals: the alpaca because of
the quality and quantity of its fiber, and the vicuña because of the softness, fineness and quality
of its coat.

Alpacas are too small to be used as pack animals. Instead, they are bred exclusively for
their fiber and meat. Alpaca meat was once considered a delicacy by Andean inhabitants. A
recent resurgence in alpaca meat was curtailed by a recent change to Peruvian law granting the
alpaca protected status. Today, it is illegal to slaughter or trade in alpaca meat. Because of the
high price commanded by alpaca on the growing North American alpaca market, illegal alpaca
smuggling has become a growing problem.

Breeds, Fiber, & Color

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 There are two types of alpaca, the alpaca Suri, which has a very long, mop-like coat, and
the alpaca Huacaya whose coat is shorter and curly - like that of a sheep. The Huacaya is much
harder, and therefore more common in the Andes.

The two coat or breed types are huacaya and Suri.

Both fleeces are soft and free of guard hair. Ninety-five
(95%) percent of alpacas are huacaya, with full, puffy fleeces
whose crimp or crinkle is found throughout their fleeces. The
lustrous, straight fiber of the Suri fleece hangs down in
"dreadlocks", giving the Suri alpaca an entirely different
appearance. Fibers of both types are considered luxury fibers
in the textile trade because of their unique qualities. Tuis or
yearling alpacas provide the finest fleeces. Depending upon its weight,
quality, and cleanliness an alpaca fleece commands $150 - $400. The eight basic colors are
white, fawn, caramel (light brown), black, gray, brown (coffee), red, and piebald (colored
blanket on a white body).

FIBER PROPERTIES

LUSTURE:

Alpaca fleece is a lustrous and silky natural fiber. In physical structure, alpaca fiber is
somewhat akin to hair, being very glossy.

WARMTH:

While similar to sheep’s wool, it is warmer, not prickly, and bears no lanolin, which
makes it hypoallergenic . Without lanolin, it does not repel water. The fiber actually contains
microscopic air pockets that contribute to the creation of lightweight apparel with very high
insulation value. The preparing, carding, spinning, weaving and finishing process of alpaca is
very similar to the process used for wool.

LUXURIOUS:

Alpaca fiber is classified as a rare specialty fiber. It is five times warmer than sheep wool
fiber and more luxurious than cashmere. Due to desirable characteristics, and the added difficulty
of working the slippery fibers, products made from alpaca are generally more valuable than those
made of sheep's wool.

The most valuable alpaca fiber is that of baby alpaca, which is softer and finer than the
fleece of the adult animal. Baby alpaca is not from a baby animal, but it is the first shear on a
young animal.

COLOR:
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 There are more than 22 natural colors of alpaca fleece making the alpaca the most color
diverse fiber-producing animal on earth.

An infinite array of natural colors can be produced by blending these fibers. Alpaca fiber
can also be easily worked.

STRENGTH AND RESILIENCE:

This fiber is stronger and warmer than sheep's wool, and is second only to mohair in
strength .Alpaca fiber is strong in comparison to its diameter and resilient and has more thermal
capacity than almost any other animal fiber. The resilient fiber is not only strong, but is
incredibly soft and lightweight.

HAND:

It is also soft and luxurious. Alpaca fiber does not itch as wool often does because it does
not contain lanolin and has a smooth cell structure. Alpaca hair is difficult to work with as it is
finer, softer and more "slippery" in texture than sheep or llama wool.

BREATHABILITY AND WEAR RESISTANCE:

Alpaca clothes are breathable, comfortable, long-lasting and wear resistant.

DYEING PROPERTY:

Alpaca hair is also much harder to dye as it takes longer for the colors to penetrate it.

WATER RESISTANCE:

Alpaca is an oilier fiber and woven alpaca is water resistant and highly breathable. It is
washable, shrinks very little, and as it is free of lanolin, it tends to resist dust.

Precipitation does not readily penetrate an alpaca garment, allowing the wearer to remain
warm and dry. This property also aids in wicking moisture away from the skin for better comfort
and warmth.

FLAMMABILITY:

Alpaca fiber is nonflammable.

THERMAL PROPERTY:

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 Alpaca fiber is hollow, thereby providing excellent thermal properties within extremely
lightweight garments. Alpaca fiber provides greater insulation and a wider comfort range with
less weight.

Alpaca Fiber Advantages over Wool

• Stronger (per same fineness)

• Hollow fiber, warmer for weight
• Lower incidence of allergic reactions
• Softer, less irritating
• Lots of rich, natural colors
• Less shrinkage (washable)
• Thermostatically superior (50 degree F comfort range vs. 30 degree F for wool)

Alpaca Fiber Advantages over Synthetics

• Superior breathability
• Wicks away body moisture
• Hollow fiber, warmer for weight
• Warm when wet
• Won’t mat or pill
• Naturally windproof
• Flame resistant, doesn’t melt
• Low static electricity, doesn’t hold debris
• Stain resistant
• Resists acquired odors (odors dissipate overnight)
• Wrinkle resistant (hang overnight, wrinkles disappear)
• All natural and biodegradable
• Natural luster, more attractive
• Thermostatically superior (50 degree F comfort range vs. 20 degree F for synthetics)

Alpaca Fiber advantages over Cashmere

• Natural colors (up to 28)

• Thermal insulation, better than cashmere
• Wrinkle resistance, better than cashmere
• Resistance, better than cashmere
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• Pilling, less than cashmere
• Water absorption, similar than cashmere
• Flexibility, less than cashmere in normal alpaca, similar than cashmere when we work with
baby alpaca
• Shrinkage, less than cashmere
• Luster, cashmere lose its luster after a couple of years, alpaca retains it for decades. Tear, pill,
stain or create static. It is easily cleaned.
• Alpaca fleece produces a high yield of clean fiber after processing: 87 to 95 percent for Alpaca
versus 43 to 76 percent for sheep's wool.
• Alpaca is easier and less expensive to process than sheep's wool due to its lack of grease or
lanolin, and Alpaca does not have to be de-haired like cashmere or camel.
• Alpaca can be scoured or cleaned without using costly chemicals.

MAJOR END USES:

The fleece from the alpaca is now the only fibre from the South American camelid used in
any quantity for spinning yarns for fashion applications. The primary end use for alpaca is
knitwear but it also goes into woven cloth for clothing, accessories - such as shawls and stoles -
and rugs.

More recently there have been attempts to promote in Europe blends of alpaca with wool,
cotton and silk for both knitwear and woven cloth as a means of widening its use.

Llama hair is used for ropes or sacking and other tough applications.

• Apparel - sweaters, socks, accessories, shawls, coats, linings, plushes and suits
• Home Fashions - Blankets, throws .

ANGORA

While their names are similar, Angora fiber is distinct from mohair, which comes from

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the Angora goat. Angora is known for its softness, thin fibers, and what knitters refer to as a halo
(fluffiness). It is also known for its silky texture.

Angora wool or Angora fiber refers to the down coat produced by the Angora rabbit.
There are many types of Angora rabbits - English, French, German and Giant. Angora is prized
for its softness, thin fibers of around 12-16 micrometers for quality fiber, and what knitters refer
to as a halo (fluffiness). The fiber felts very easily. Angora fiber comes in white, black, and
various shades of brown.

Angora rabbits produce coats in a variety of colors, from white to black. Good quality
Angora fiber is around 12-16 micrometres in diameter, and can cost around $ 10 - 16 per ounce
(35 to 50 cents/gram). It felts very easily, even on the animal itself if it is not groomed
frequently.

The Angora rabbit (Turkish: Ankara tavşanı) is a variety of domestic rabbit bred for its
long, soft hair. The Angora is one of the oldest types of domestic rabbit, originating in Ankara,
Turkey, along with the Angora cat and Angora goat. The rabbits were popular pets with French
royalty in the mid-18th century, and spread to other parts of Europe by the end of the century.
They first appeared in the United States in the early 20th century. They are bred largely for their
long Angora wool, which may be removed by shearing, combing, or plucking. There are many
individual breeds of Angora rabbits, four of which are ARBA recognized. They are English,
French, Giant and Satin. Other breeds include German, Chinese, Swiss and Finnish, to name a
few.

There are three ways of harvesting angora fiber: shearing, combing and hand plucking.

Shearing is the least desirable. Although it is probably the fastest method of removing
the fiber from the rabbit, it leaves blunt ends and shorter lengths of fiber intermixed with longer
ones. It is very difficult, if not impossible to separate the shorter inferior cuts from the longer
cuts. It costs less because it is not the best and to the inexperienced it seems like a good deal.
Regardless of the twist, these shorter pieces will cause irregularities in the yarn and will increase
the likelihood of shedding over time.

Combing and Hand plucking takes advantage of the natural molt by waiting until the
wool is ready to be gently removed from the rabbit. After the Harvesting, the rabbit is left with
the shorter new growth covering his near-naked body. At this point they look like skinny rats
bouncing around in their cages.

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 Combing with a pronged comb (not a slicker brush) obtains nice consistent lengths of
fiber in large groups or tuffs.

Hand plucking is also desirable and some use the two terms interchangeably. Hand
plucking would not include the use of a comb, however. There are no shorter hairs to worry
about with these two methods and the fiber consistently averages 4 to 8 inches in length.
Combed and Hand plucked angora fiber costs more than sheared for this reason.

The fiber is normally blended with wool to give the yarn elasticity, as Angora fiber is not
naturally elastic. The blend decreases the softness and halo as well as the price of the finished
object. Angora fibers are hollow, which gives them their characteristic floating feel.

BREEDS OF ANGORA RABBIT

There are four different ARBA recognized types of Angora rabbit: English, French, Satin
and Giant. There are many other breeds, one of the more common being German. Each breed
produces different quality and quantity of fiber, and has a different range of colors.

FUR PRODUCTION

Angora fur is produced in Europe, Chile, China and the United States. Harvesting occurs
up to three times a year (about every 4 months) and is collected by plucking, shearing, or
collection of the molting fur.

Most breeds of Angora rabbits molt with their natural growth cycle about every four
months. Many producers of the fiber pluck the fur of these breeds. Plucking is, in effect, pulling
out the molted fur. Plucking ensures a minimum of guard hair, and the fur is not as matted when
plucked as when it is collected from the rabbit's cage. However, plucking a rabbit is time
consuming, so some producers shear the rabbit instead. While this results in slightly lower
quality fleece, as the guard hairs are included, it does take less time and results in more fleece.
Also, not all breeds of Angora molt, and if the rabbit does not naturally molt, it cannot be
plucked. German Angoras do not molt.

The rabbits must be groomed at least once or twice a week to prevent the fur from
matting and felting. There is also a danger a rabbit will ingest its own molted fur; unlike a cat, a
rabbit cannot easily be rid of the buildup.

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 QUALITY OF WOOL
The premium first quality wool is taken from the back and upper sides of the rabbit. This
is usually the longest and cleanest fiber on the rabbit. There should not be hay or vegetable
matter in the fiber. Second quality is from the neck and lower sides, and may have some
vegetable matter. Third quality is the buttocks and legs and any other areas that easily felt and
are of shorter length. Fourth quality is totally unsalvageable, and consists of the larger felted bits
or stained fiber. Third and fourth quality is perfect for cutting up for the birds to use in lining
their nests. With daily brushing, felting of the fiber can be avoided, increasing the usable portion
of fiber.

FIBER QUALITIES
Premium 1st Quality:

The premium 1st quality wool is taken from the back and upper sides of the rabbit. This
is usually the longest and cleanest fiber on the rabbit and is absolutely matt free and perfectly
clean. There should not be ANY hay or vegetable matter in the rabbit fiber. This is difficult
because it is necessary to feed quality hay to the rabbits to help prevent wool block and they are
messy eaters.

Second Quality:

Second quality is from the neck and lower sides and may have some vegetable matter.

Third quality:

It is the rear-end (or butt) and legs and any other areas that easily matt and are of shorter
length and have may have some vegetable matter and small matts.

Fourth quality:

It is totally unsalvageable and consists of the larger matts or stained fiber. (Third and
fourth quality are perfect for cutting up for the birds to use in lining their nests.)

FIBER PROPERTIES
This fabric is ideal for thermal clothing. It is most sought for its durability, warmth and
texture. Angora is much more warm than wool. It is ideal fabric for people suffering from wool
allergies.

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 Characteristics of Angora Wool Fabric:

HAND:

It is eextremely soft, lofty, lustrous, lightweight, and durable and Non-odor absorbing.

STRENGTH:

Pure angora fibers are rarely woven into fabric because the fibers are so fine and fragile.
Rather, they are blended with other wools to increase warmth and enhance softness.

LUXURIOUS:

As only a small amount of wool can be harvested from these adorable creatures, angora is
often combined with other fibers to minimize the high cost of this luxurious fiber.

THERMAL PROPERTY:

It is warm and comfortable.Angora wool can be worn outside in very cold conditions and
then immediately worn inside without overheating. Best heat retention of all natural wool

LUSTURE:

It is lustrous.

DURABILITY:

It is durable.

MOISTURE ABSORBANCY:

It absorbs moisture.

THERAPEUTIC USE:

Angora wool has a therapeutic effect on human body. It improves the blood circulation
and gives natural benefits to the wearer. The warmth-giving therapeutic effect benefits people
with cold painful joints, sciatica, arthritis, rheumatics, muscle tension, kidney ailments,
chilblains, circulatory disorders, etc.

END USES
Angora wool can be used in all sorts of ways. It is commonly used in apparel such as
sweaters and suiting, knitting yarn, and felting.

The warmth and softness of the fabric has made it widely being used in different types of
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garments, thermal underwear and over wear.

It is also used as blankets, joint warmers for wrist, knees and back, head wear scarves, etc.
Sometimes angora wool is blended with other fibers to make use as cloak and overcoat.

Because Angora involves a laborious harvesting process and a small number of

producers, most angora wool products are expensive. Angora is used in luxury undergarments,
underwear, thermal base layers, sweaters, scarves, and sportswear.

It is 7 times warmer than wool, and is ideal for baby clothes, winter underwear, sweaters
and mittens.

CASHMERE

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 Cashmere wool is wool obtained from the Cashmere goat. Cashmere is characterized by
its luxuriously soft fibers, with high nap ability and loft. In order for a natural goat fiber to be
considered Cashmere, it must be under 18.5 micrometers in diameter and be at least 3.175
centimeters long. It is noted as providing natural light-weight insulation without bulk. Fibers are
highly adaptable and are easily constructed into fine or thick yarns, and light to heavy-weight
fabrics.

Cashmere is the fine undercoat combed from a goat, most often from its belly. It has
extremely soft handle and no crimp. Cashmere has a micron count of about 11-18. It ranges from
1-3 inches, although usually closer to 1-2 inches. Most cashmere under 15 microns is too short to
be suitable for hand spinning. It produces an extremely fine, sleek yarn with an elegant drape. It
is less elastic than wool and has very little grease content, usually about 0.5%.

Cashmere is fiber of kings, a valuable natural fiber and high quality material for textile
industry. Also known as “fiber diamond” or “soft gold”. Sixty percent of Cashmere is produced
in China and remainder is produced in Turkey, Afghanistan, Iran, Iraq, Kashmir, Australia and
New Zealand.

PRODUCTION:

China has become the largest producer of raw cashmere and their clip is estimated at
10,000 metric tons per year (hair in). Mongolia produces somewhat more than 3,000 tons (2,721
tonnes) (hair in), while India, Pakistan, Iran, Afghanistan, Turkey, and Central Asian Republics
produce significant but lesser amounts. The annual world clip is estimated to be between 15,000
and 20,000 tons (13,605 and 18,140 tonnes) (hair in). "Pure cashmere", resulting from removing
animal grease, dirt and coarse hairs from the fleece, is estimated at about 6,500 tons (5,895
tonnes). It is estimated that on average yearly production per goat is 150 grams.

A Cashmere goat fleece requires “de-haring” which means separating the fine under wool
from the coarse, outer protective hair also that is co-mingled fleece. Up until the late 19th century
all de-haring was done by hand when English based Joseph Dawson Company is said to have
invented the first mechanical de-haring machine. Although China was the largest producer of
cashmere fiber, refined cashmere and cashmere garments were largely produced in Europe,
United States and Japan until the late 20th century. Today China by far is the largest producer of
raw cashmere, refined cashmere and cashmere garments.

TYPES OF FIBERS:

• RAW — fiber that has not been processed and is essentially straight from the animal
• PROCESSED— fiber that has been through the processes of de-hairing, washing,
carding, and is ready either to spin or to knit/crochet/weave
• VIRGIN— new fiber which has been made into yarns, fabrics or garments for the first
time

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 • RECYCLED — fibers reclaimed from scraps or fabrics that were previously woven or
felted, and which may or may not have been previously used by the consumer

NATURAL COLOURS:

Cashmere is found in various shades of white, brown and beige.

STEPS IN CASHMERE PRODUCTION:

There are five primary steps to cashmere production:

• Collection
• Sorting, scouring
• Dehairing
• Spinning
• Weaving or knitting

Collection:

Cashmere fibers are collected by either combing or shearing the animal during the
molting season. Goats molt during a several week period in the spring.

Sorting, scouring:

Hand sorting for coarse hair takes place. After sorting, the fiber is washed to remove dirt,
grease and any vegetable matter gathered in the collection process.

Dehairing

The scoured material is then dehaired. This step removes vegetable matter, dandruff and
the coarse outer guard hair. At the end of this process, the cashmere is ready to be spun into
yarns for weaving or knitting--the 4th and 5th steps.

FIBER PROPERTIES

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SOURCE:

The downy undercoat of goats has long been a prized fiber. Originally the fiber was
produced only in the Indian state of Kashmir, but today the goats are ranched all over
the world.

The fiber is so fine, that only a quarter to a half pound of cashmere fiber can be
produced by a single goat each year. The fiber is hidden within a protective layer of
guard hair. Separating the cashmere from the guard hairs is a difficult process, which drives the
production costs of this fiber.

FIBER PROPERTIES:

Super light, cashmere also has a short staple, is easy to spin into yarn. It is perhaps best for the knitter

when blended with other fibers, as it enhances both fibers.

STRUCTURE:

The cross section of Cashmere fiber is round.

TEXTURE:

Cashmere wool is fine in texture, and it is also strong, light, and soft. Fiber is cylindrical, soft and
silken.

It is soft silky and very light weight.

ABRASION:

The fiber abrades easily because of its softness and because these fibers are constructed with napped or
fleecy surface.

THERMAL PROPERTIES:

Luxuriously soft, with high napability and loft; provides natural light-weight insulation without bulk.
Cashmere is extremely warm High moisture content allows insulation properties to change with the
relative humidity in the air.

DYEING:

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 Cashmere takes dyed easily and vividly.

Cashmere can absorb water more quickly than wool and is very receptive to dyes.

DURABILITY:

Cashmere is often blended with wools and other yarns to enhance its strength, as well as keep costs
down. The yarn industry has made it possible for everyone to knit with cashmere through blended yarns.

Suited to all kinds of projects, cashmere can and should be used in everything from hats and scarves, to
sweaters and stoles.

Doesn’t stand up to hard wear on account of extremely soft downy finish?

STORAGE:

Like wool, cashmere can be attacked by moths; store with mothballs if you can stand the smell.
Otherwise, periodically put your yarn or garment in a plastic bag in the freezer for a 48 hours to kill moth
larvae. You should also air out stored fibers in the sun every now and then.

WASH CARE AND WET STRENGTH:

Generally, you can hand wash cashmere fibers, machine washing is usually not recommended. Never use
bleaching agent that can discolor your yarn. You may add touch of hair conditioner to rinse water for
extra softness.

Cashmere, like wool, is weaker when wet. Do not wring or twist the wet item. Wrap in a towel and
gently squeeze out the excess water. Then lay the item flat to dry, out of direct sunlight.

END USE:

APPARELS: Men's and women's coats, jackets and blazers, skirts, hosiery, sweaters, gloves,
shawls, scarves, blankets, mufflers, socks, caps and robes.

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Pure cashmere can be dyed and spun into yarns and knitted into jumpers (sweaters), hats, gloves,
socks and other clothing, or woven into fabrics then cut and assembled into garments such as
outer coats, jackets, trousers (pants), pajamas, scarves, blankets, and other items. Fabric and
garment producers in Italy, Scotland, England, and Japan have long been known as market
leaders.

MOHAIR

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 Mohair is a silk-like fabric or yarn made from the hair of the Angora goat. It is both
durable and resilient. It is notable for its high luster and sheen, and is often used in fiber blends
to add these qualities to a textile. Mohair also takes dye exceptionally well.

Mohair usually refers to a silk-like fabric or yarn made from the hair of the Angora goat.
The word "mohair" was adopted into English before 1570 from the Arabic mukhayyar, a type of
haircloth, literally 'choice', from khayyara, 'he chose'.

Mohair fiber is approximately 25-45 microns in diameter. It is one of the oldest textile
fibers in use. It is both durable and resilient. It is notable for its high luster and sheen, and is
often used in fiber blends to add these qualities to a textile. Mohair also takes dye exceptionally
well. Mohair is also warm as it has great insulating properties. It is durable and resistant to
moisture-wicking, stretch, flame and creases. It is considered to be a luxury fiber, like cashmere,
angora and silk, and is usually more expensive than most wool that comes from sheep.

Mohair is composed mostly of keratin, a protein found in the hair, wool, horns and skin
of all mammals. While it has scales like wool, the scales are not fully developed, merely
indicated. Thus, mohair does not felt like wool does.

Angora goats produce a beautiful luxurious incredibly durable fiber called mohair which
rates amongst the warmest natural fibers known to man. It is a fiber that is justifiably recognized
worldwide as the one fiber that ultimately enhances luxury products.

South Africa, from where all our products are directly sourced from fair trade producers,
currently produces more than 60% of total world production of mohair.

Leading fashion houses worldwide have long recognized the intrinsic value of mohair as
a luxury fiber. Today, ongoing research clearly reflects mohair's outstanding value in non-
fashion products and household textiles. Mohair's properties and characteristics allow end-
product production houses to differentiate their products, all capitalizing on the fiber’s natural,
unrivalled beauty, durability, silky texture and numerous other qualities.

Mohair is a strong, lustrous fiber that makes an ideal yarn and fabric. It drapes well and
resists wrinkling or shrinking. It is stronger and warmer than wool, keeping heat in during cold
weather and is a barrier against hot summer temperatures. Mohair isn't "itchy" because it doesn't
have scales like wool. It accepts dye with an exuberance that is unparalleled. Natural coloured
mohair has variations of shades that are exceptionally beautiful.

Mohair is one of the most versatile textile fibers. Its characteristics are similar to wool,
except that it does not have the scales that can irritate the skin.

Mohair fiber, like wool, is composed chiefly of the protein substance keratin. Fiber
structure is similar to that of wool, although the outer layer, or epidermis, has about half the
number of scales found in fine wools. Because the scales lie almost flat, with little overlapping,
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the fiber surface is fairly smooth. The cortex portion, striated throughout its length, often
contains air-filled pockets, and less than 1 percent of the fibers have a central canal, or medulla.

Mohair fiber is long, lustrous, strong, resilient, and durable. It absorbs and retains
moisture much like wool and has good affinity for dyestuffs but is more sensitive to chemicals. It
reacts much like wool when subjected to heat, sunlight, moth larvae, and aging. Because of its
scale structure, mohair felts less readily than wool.

CHARACTERISTICS:

Long, lustrous, strong fiber Luxurious Soft hand Most resilient natural textile fiber
Lightweight, warms, good insulator Dyes well, brilliant colors Non-crush, -mat and -pill
qualities. Resists fading

FIBER PROPERTIES:
Mohair has several unique properties that are not found in any other animal fiber

INSULATION:

Mohair's hollow fibers do not conduct heat like wool and provides good insulation, even
when wet.

DURABILITY:

Mohair can be twisted and bent without damage to the fiber; it is the most durable of
animal fibers.

COMFORT:

Mohair does not irritate the skin, even for people who are sensitive to wool.

STRENGTH:

Mohair is stronger than steel of the same diameter.

SHRINK AND WRINKLE RESISTANCE:

Mohair fabrics shrink much less than wool because mohair's smooth fibers do not felt.

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It has a very good wrinkle resistance also.

ELASTICITY:

Mohair is very elastic; it can be stretched up to 30%, and will spring back to shape;
mohair garments resist wrinkling, stretching, or sagging.

MOISTURE TRANSFER:

Mohair easily absorbs and releases moisture, moving perspiration away from the skin. It
is comfortable to wear in cold and hot weather.

LUSTURE:

One of mohair's most important qualities is its ability to take dye and to display brilliant
colors that resist fading by time or hard ware.

LIGHTWEIGHT:

Mohair's smooth fibers can be made into fabrics that have a cooling effect. It is ideal for
summer garments.

NON FLAMMABILITY:

Mohair will not burn unless it is exposed to a direct flame.

EASY TO WASH:

Mohair is easy to wash because it doesn't felt or shrink like wool. In normal
circumstances the most regularly required care will be brushing the pile (the fluff) with a stiff
hairbrush. Depending on how you use it your blanket will require washing periodically. This too
is very simple. Hand wash in tepid water with a small amount of detergent or soap powder. Do
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not rub or agitate unduly, if possible let the dirt soak out. Drain, and then rinse in clean cold
water. Rinse a second time in tepid water, and add a small amount of fabric softener for superior
results, drain and hang up to dry (because mohair has a different structure to wool, you will find
it dries quite quickly) followed by a brisk brush to fluff it up.

DYEING:

Mohair also takes dye exceptionally well.

MAJOR END USE:

Apparel - coats, suits, dresses, sweaters, accessories, loungewear, socks. Home Fashion -
blankets, throws upholstery, draperies, carpets, rugs.

Woven mohair fabrics, frequently in pile form, are used for a variety of garments,
including outerwear, summer-weight suits, and dresses, and mohair fiber is also used to
manufacture knitted goods and knitting yarns.

Mohair is often combined with other fibers, either blended in yarns or serving as either
the warp or the filling yarn in woven fabric. It has had extensive use in lining fabrics for shaped
garments but has recently received competition from synthetic fibers used for that purpose.

Mohair pile upholstery fabric, once popular, is now limited to certain upholstery uses
requiring both luxury and durability. The demand for mohair in both apparel and home
furnishings varies with changes in fashion.

VICUNA

Vicunas are the spirit and the life blood of the came lid families living in the high Andes.
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Unfortunately, due to their very valuable fleece vicunas were nearly hunted to extinction by the
late l970s. Conservation efforts in Peru, Chile and Argentina have led to a phenomenal
resurgence in vicuna populations. Once again, due to careful management, vicunas can be found
in healthy numbers in the Andes.

Vicunas (Vicugna vicugna) are members of the Camelidae family, of which there are
three other living members in South America: the wild guanaco (Lama Guanaco), the domestic
llama (Lama Glama), and the alpaca (Lama Pacos).

Vicuñas live exclusively in South America, primarily in the central Andes. They are most
commonly found in Bolivia, Peru, Chile, and northwest Argentina. Peru has the largest number.
Bolivia has a great number of wild vicuñas in the southwestern side of the country.

Vicuñas live in the grasslands and plains in the mountain regions at an altitude of 3,500
to 5,750 meters (11,480 to 18,860 feet) (Grzimek et al. 2004). There are many places they live
but one usual place where they can be found is in the grassy plains of the Andes Mountains. In
these areas, only nutrient-poor, tough bunch grasses, and Festuca grow. The sun's rays are able to
penetrate the thin atmosphere producing relatively warm temperatures during the day; however,
the temperatures drop down to freezing at night. The vicuña's thick but soft coat is a special
adaptation that traps layers of warm air close to its body so it can tolerate the freezing
temperatures there.

During the 1960s, the vicuña was in danger of becoming extinct. Thus in 1975, the
Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES) added the vicuña to the list of
internationally protected species, immediately making it illegal to trade in any product derived
from this animal. Almost 20 years later, CITES granted permission for the use of vicuña fiber,
but in restricted quantities and with certification regarding the way in which the fiber has been
obtained.

The vicuñas have to be caught alive so they can be shorn, and then set free in their
habitat. It has been possible to achieve this by employing an ancient Inca traditional practice
known as Chaccu, where people are deployed in a large circle to surround the vicuñas; the circle
is tightened and the vicuñas are driven into corrals where they are shorn and then marked.

The Chaccu festival takes place between November and May, retaining many of its
original characteristics, with the exception of sacrificing the animal. Before the Chaccu
commences, an advance payment is made to the Pachamama, Mother Earth, giving thanks for the
fleeces. The Chaccu starts when the community surrounds the animals and, alarming them,
drives them across the plain down a kind of corridor toward the corral.

The current vicuña population in Perú comprises some 140 000 specimens, to be found
mainly on the state-protected Nature Reserves in central and southern Perú. This figure
represents 85% of the world's population of vicuñas.
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 FIBER PROPERTIES:
The vicuña fiber is popular due to its warmth, fineness, and beauty. Its warming
properties come from the tiny scales that are on the hollow air filled fibers. It causes them to
interlock and trap insulating air. At the same time, it is finer than any other wool in the world but
since it is sensitive to chemical treatment, the wool is usually left in its natural color.

However, the vicuña will only produce about one pound of wool a year. Gathering it
required a certain process during the time of the Incas. Vicuña fibers were annually gathered
through communal efforts called chacu. Here, hundreds of thousands of people would herd
hundreds of thousands of vicuña into previously laid funnel traps. The animals would be sheared
and then released and was only done every four years. The vicuña was believed to be the
reincarnation of a beautiful young maiden who received a coat of pure gold once she consented
to the advances of an old, ugly king. Because of this, it was against the law for anyone to kill a
vicuña or wear its fleece, except for Inca royalty.

The 2008 prices for vicuña yarns and fabrics can range from $1,800 to $3,000 per yard.
Vicuña fiber can be used for apparel (such as socks, sweaters, accessories, shawls, coats, and
suits) and home fashion (such as blankets and throws). A scarf costs around $1500 while a man's
coat can cost up to $20,000.

In December 2006, the General Assembly of the United Nations proclaimed 2009 to be the
International Year of Natural Fibers, so as to raise the profile of vicuña and other natural fibers.

TEXTURE:

The hair of the vicuña, with fiber diameters of 10 to 12 microns, is the finest and most
sought after in the world. During the Inca Empire, its use was permitted only for making
garments to be worn by members of the government. Nowadays, owing to its softness, luster and
extreme fineness, this fiber has an extraordinary value in textiles.

COLOURS:

The incredibly soft and luxurious fleece of the vicuña-with natural colors ranging from
golden brown to deep fawn-has made this shy and diminutive creature a most sought-after
treasure since the time of the Incas.

FIBER YEILD:

During a two-year period, the vicuña produces approximately 200g of fiber which, apart
from its fineness, is remarkable for its providing a very high degree of thermal insulation.

LUXURIOUS:
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 Vicuña remains the world’s finest legal fiber—more precious than guanaco, wool, and
even cashmere. Only the highly endangered and fiercely hunted Tibetan antelope known as
shatoosh has a finer coat, but it is illegal to trade throughout the world. The vicuña fiber itself is
neither hair nor wool, but a downy-soft covering taken from the back and neck of the animal—
not the underbelly, as in the case of fine wools from sheep and cashmere from goats. Vicuña
fiber measures an average of 12 microns in diameter, about eight times finer than human hair.
The finest cashmere, by comparison, is about 14 or 15 microns, and it is mechanically stretched
to make it even thinner for weaving it into Super 180 or Super 200 cloth.

Most luxurious and expensive fiber in the world as Vicuña fleece is harvested in very
limited quantities.

THERMAL PROPERTY:

The insulating fiber is warmer than wool and finer than cashmere. Its warming properties
come from the tiny scales that are on the hollow air filled fibers. It causes them to interlock and
trap insulating air.

FINENESS:

At the same time, it is finer than any other wool in the world.

REACTION TO DYES:

Vicuna is sensitive to chemical treatment, the wool is usually left in its natural color.

USES:

Vicuña fiber can be used for apparel (such as socks, sweaters, accessories, shawls, coats,
and suits) and home fashion (such as blankets and throws). A scarf costs around $1500 while a
man's coat can cost up to $20,000.

Vicuna wool is extremely expensive; it is made into superfine quality dressing gowns,
coating materials and shawls.

REFERENCES

• Understanding Textiles – Billie J Collier, Martin Bide, Phyllis G Tortora

• Animal Fiber – Meenakshi Rastogi

• Fibers and Yarns – Meenakshi Rastogi

• Handbook of Textile Fibers, Vol. I – J. Gordon Cook

• Fabric Science – J.J Puzzoto

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• www.fibertofashion.com

• www.fashionstudentonline.com

• www.mohairdirect.com

• www.rug-info.com

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