1.

Introduction
1.1 Raymond

Incorporated in 1925, the Raymond Group is a Rs. 1400 crore plus conglomerate
having businesses in Textiles, Readymade Garments, Engineering Files & Tools,
Prophylactics and Toiletries.

The group is the leader in textiles, apparel, & files & tools in India and enjoys a
pronounced position in the international market. Raymond believes in Excellence,
Quality and Leadership.

Raymond is considered a pioneer in the development of the woolen and worsted

textiles market in India, thanks to its continuous initiatives in product development,
marketing and distribution. A strong heritage of in house research and development,
a range of over 20,000 shades and designs, a distribution network of more than 4000
multi – brand outlets and over 281 exclusive retail shops, makes Raymond the largest
and most respected textile brand in India.

Raymond is uniquely positioned as a brand that addresses the innate need of men to
look good and at the same time possess strength of character. This emphasis on
human values creates a warm emotional link with consumers- the essence of ‘The
Complete Man’.

Raymond has the distinction of producing the finest suiting in the world using super
fine wool from 80s to 230s count and blending the same with superfine polyester and
other specialty fibers, like Cashmere, Angora, Alpaca, Pure Silk, Linen etc.

The company produces nearly 20,000 design and colours of suiting fabric, that have
found their way in over 55 countries including the European Union, USA, Canada,
Japan and Australia among others. Even as our products evolve with the times, the
brand still caters to the different faces of ‘The Complete Man’- a man who is caring,
sensitive and places a huge premium on relationships

The company’s engagement with the customer works on multiple dimensions right
from developing fashion guides that help them look sharp, to a wide selection of
fabric for all occasions and fashion, to offering superior tailoring at The Raymond
Shops at convenient locations all over India and the Middle East.

As an integrated player, they provide end-to-end fabric solutions right from

manufacturing worsted, woollen and linen fabrics to creating suits, trousers and
apparel. Raymond is home to some of the most reputed apparel brands of India under
the banner of Raymond Apparel Ltd; The designs are created in limited editions to
maintain exclusivity.
The product range includes

 Shirts  Suits
 Trouser  Jackets

2
 1.2 Organisational Structure

Thane

President HR Chindwara

Textile
Vapi
Manufacturing

Jalgaon

SSAL
Denim
Raymond – Ever Blue Ltd
UCO
Manzoni

Park Avenue

Parx

Raymond Group
CMD RAL ColorPlus
Group President

Notting Hill

Be

Zapp

Celebration
RZPL
Apparel
Raymond The Raymond
Retail Shop

J K Ansell Kamasutra

Raymond
Aviation
President
Finance
1.3 History

Around the time the Singhania family was building, consolidating and expanding its
various businesses in Kanpur, one Mr. Wadia, was in a similar manner engaged in
fulfilling his dream: he set up a small woollen mill in the area around Thane creek,
40 kms away from Bombay. The Sassoons, a well-known industrialist family of
Bombay, soon acquired this mill and renamed it as The Raymond Woollen Mills

When the Singhania’s were looking for new regions to establish their presence and
new fields to venture into, they concurred that textiles appeared to hold promise. A
piece of information that a woollen mill was available on the outskirts of Bombay
clinched the issue.

When the grandson of Lala Juggilal, Lala Kailashpat Singhania took over Raymond
in 1944, the mill was primarily making cheap and coarse woollen blankets, and
modest quantities of low priced woollen fabrics.

The vision and foresight of Mr. Kailashpat Singhania helped greatly in establishing
the J.K. Group’s presence in the western region. Under his able stewardship,
Raymond embarked upon a gradual phase of technological up gradation and
modernisation producing woollen fabrics of a far superior quality. Under Mr. Gopala
krishna Singhania, the mill became a world-class factory and the Raymond brand
became synonymous with fine quality woollen fabrics. At Raymond, quality did not
rest on its laurels

When Dr.Vijaypat Singhania took over the reins of the company in 1980, he injected
fresh vigour into Raymond, transforming it into a modern, industrial conglomerate.
His son Mr. Gautam Hari Singhania, the present chairman and managing director has
been instrumental in restructuring the Group. With the divestment of the Synthetics,
Steel and Cement divisions he initiated, the Group has emerged stronger with a better

4
bottom line, more focused approach, become market oriented and achieved a
consolidated position

Today, the woollen mill by the creek has turned into a Rs. 1400 crores conglomerate
and is India’s leading producer of worsted suiting fabric with 60% market share. It is
also the largest exporter of worsted fabrics and readymade garments to 54 countries
including Australia, Canada, USA, the European Union and Japan. The Raymond
group is also the leader among ready-mades in India with a turnover of Rs. 2000
million with its three brands – Park Avenue, Parx and Manzoni.

5
1.4 International Business

It all began with a small but significant order from Fiji for Rs. 7,000 worth of
Raymond fabrics. In the St. Erik’s Fair in Sweden, a sizeable order was won and
executed and ever since exports have never looked back.

Today, Raymond is the largest exporter of worsted fabrics and readymade garments
to over 58 countries including Australia, Canada, USA, the European Union and
Japan. From winning the first ever Government of India award for outstanding
export performances, Raymond has continued to win a number of export awards.
Happily the export graph continues to rise higher…and higher.

Raymond Denim enjoys a substantial market share in all parts of the world. The
company exports 55% of its production to around 20 countries around the world and
to leading denim wear brands like Levi’s, Pepe, Lee Cooper and retail brands like
Zara, H&M, Gap, Tommy Hilfiger, etc.

Raymond Exports Market

European Union (U.K., Portugal, Spain, Italy, Germany, Greece),Japan,

Turkey, Poland, Lebanon, Egypt, Middle East, Mauritius, USA, Colombia, Hong
Kong, Korea, Philippines, Indonesia, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Nepal and Pakistan

What Raymond Export?

Fabrics
100% Wool, Wool Rich, Polyester Wool & Polyester Viscose fabrics .Exotic fabrics
like Wool Silk, Wool Cashmere, Cape Wool and Linen blends. Available in variety
of finished and stretch properties both with and without Lycra.

Blankets
100% Wool, Wool Rich Blankets & Flannels.

Garments

Trousers, Jackets, Suits, Shirts, Jeans and Readymade accessories such as Ties,
Socks Handkerchiefs and Leather Belts.

6
RAYMOND GROUP STRUCTURE

7
1.5 Group Companies

The Raymond group was incorporated in 1925 and within a span of a few years,
transformed from being an Indian textile major to a global conglomerate.

In the endeavour to keep nurturing quality & leadership, it always choose the path
untaken- from being the first in 1959 to introduce a polywool blend in India to
creating the world’s finest suiting fabric the 250s made from the superfine 11.4
micron wool.

Today, the Raymond group is vertically & horizontally integrated to provide

customers total textile solutions. Few companies globally have such a diverse
product range of nearly 20,000 varieties of worsted suiting to cater to customers
across age groups, occasions and styles.
Raymond manufactures for the world the finest fabrics – from wool to wool-blended
worsted suiting to specialty ring denims as well as high value shirting.
After making a mark in textiles, Raymond forayed into garmenting through highly
successful ventures like Silver Spark Apparel Ltd., Ever Blue Apparel Ltd.
(Jeanswear) and Celebrations Apparel Ltd (Shirts).The recent unit of garment
manufacturing is opened in peenya Bangalore named Dress Masters Apparel Pvt
Ltd.

It also has some of the most highly respected fabric and apparel brands in its
portfolio: Raymond, Raymond (Ready-to-wear), Park Avenue, Color Plus, Parx,
Makers &Notting Hill.
The Raymond Group also has an expensive retail presence established through the
exclusive chain of “The Raymond Shop” and the stand-alone brand stores.

Raymond today is one of the largest players in the fabrics, design wear, denim,
cosmetics & toiletries, engineering files & tools, prophylactics and air charter
services in national and international markets. All its plants are ISO certified,
leveraging on cutting-edge technology that adheres to the highest quality parameters
while also being environment friendly.

1. Raymond Ltd.
It is among the largest integrated manufacturers of worsted fabrics in the world

2. Raymond Apparel Ltd.

Raymond Apparel Ltd. Has in its folio some of the most highly regarded apparel
brands in India – Raymond (Ready-to-wear), Park Avenue, Parx and Notting
Hill.

3. ColorPlus Fashion Ltd.

8
 ColorPlus is among the largest smart casual brands in the premium category. The
company was acquired by Raymond to cater to the growing demand for a high
end, casual wear brand in the country for men & women

4. Silver Spark Apparel Ltd.

A garmenting facility that manufactures formal suit, trousers, and jackets
5. Dress Masters Apparel Pvt Ltd.
A garmenting facility that manufactures formal suits, trousers and jackets.

6. Ever Blue Apparel Ltd.

A state-of-the-art denim garmenting facility.

7. Celebrations Apparel Ltd.

A facility set-up for the manufacture of formal shirts.

8. Raymond Luxury Cottons Ltd.

A Greenfield facility manufacturing high value cotton shirting.

9. J.K. Helene Curtis Ltd.

A leading player in the grooming, accessories and toiletries category.

10. J.K. Investo Trade (India) Ltd.

JKIT is an investment company registered with Reserve Bank of India as a Non-
Banking
Financial Company.

11. JK Files (India) Ltd.

A leading player in the engineering automotive components.

12. Ring Plus Aqua Ltd.

A leading manufacturer in the engineering automotive components.

13. Trinity India Ltd.

A leading supplier of components and sub-assemblies for the automotive global
market.

Joint Ventures
1. Raymond UCO Denim Pvt. Ltd.
The manufacturers and marketers of denim fabrics.

2. J.K.Ansell Ltd.
The manufacturers and marketers of condoms and surgical gloves.

9
3. J.K.Talabot Ltd.
Joint venture with MOB Outillage SA, manufacturing files and rasps for
international markets. (raymond india, 2016)

10
Clients

11
2. ABOUT DRESS MASTERS PVT. LTD.
Dress Masters Apparel Production limited is a subsidiary of Raymond limited,
established on September 10th 2016 in Peenya (Zone-1). This new unit manufactures
Jackets, Vest coat, and Trousers catering to Domestic as well as Export markets. The
state of the art, manufacturing facilities at the plant, helps in producing .4 million
Jackets, .3 million Trousers and 93 thousand Vest coat annually. With a total build -
up area is 155461 Sq. Ft. The Plant's forte lies in the manufacture of jacket. The unit
has a manufacturing capacity around 1000 suits (jacket, trouser and vest coat) and
shirts. There are 5 floors in the unit. The basement comprises of the fabric and trims
store and spreading and cutting section. The ground floor is warehouse. At 1st floor
vest coat and jacket are manufactured. At 2nd floor the trousers are manufactured.3rd
floor is not in used but recently it is in planning to convert it into jacket floor. 4th
floor is the canteen.

The client of the unit includes:

1. Sacoor Brother
2. Calvin Klein
3. Peerless Clothing
4. Charles Tyrwhitt
5. Banana Republic
6. Blackberry
7. JC Penny
8. Pelestrom

12
Name of the company RAYMONDS

Name of the unit DRESS MASTERS APPAREL PRIVATE Ltd.

Address 5th main road ,3rd Phase ,Peenya

Banglore-560058
PH:080-66737654/70
Head office J.K. Gram ,Pokharan Road, Thane,(Maharashtra)

Director Mr KAUSHAL NARAYAN

Year of establishment 10th September 2015

Nature of business Domestic as well as Exporters

Product category Jacket. Vest Coat, Trousers

Main export market Japan ,US And Europe

Buyer Canada ,U.S, South Africa, Japan,U.K.

Production capacity 33800 Jacket/Month

19746 Trouser/ Month
7800 Vest coat/Month
Area 155461 Sq. Ft.
Table 2.1: About company

13
 2.1 Site Plan

Fabric store

Basement Trims store

Cutting department

CAD department

Pattern making department

Maintenance store

HR department

Ground Floor Planning department

IT department

warehouse

Embroidery section

Jacket sewing line 1,2,

First Floor Vest coat line 1

Jacket I.E. department

Second floor Jacket Line 3,4

Third Floor Trouser sewing line 1,2,3,4

Fourth Floor canteen

Carpenter room

Store room

Table 2.2: Site Plan

a. Products
i. Trouser: The different types of trousers made are:
1. Double pleated
2. Single pleated
3. Flat front
4. Trouser with lining
5. Trouser without lining
6. Trouser with bottom cuff
7. Trouser with normal bottom hem

Figure 2.2.1: Anatomy of Trouser

15
 Figure 2.2.2: Pleats

ii.Jacket
 Half Canvas
 Full Canvas
 Floating Canvas
 No vent
 Single Centre Vent
 Double vent (one on each side)
 Single Breasted
 Double Breasted

Figure 2.2.3: Anatomy of Jacket

16
 Figure 2.2.4: Types of Jacket

2.2.3 Waist Coat

The different types of vest coat made are:

 Half Canvas
 Full Canvas

Figure 2.2.5- Anatomy of waist coat

2.2 Organization structure

DMAPL

Operations Support
Functions

Fabric Store HR & Admin

Trim Store Accounts

Maintenance
Suit Cutting

IT (out Source)
Jacket Sewing &
Finishing

Trouser Sewing &

Finishing

Quality Assurance

Warehouse

18
2.3 Workflow in Departments
The business is headed by Business Head (Vice President); he has four functional
heads supporting him namely,

 GM (Head Manufacturing),
 GM (Marketing/Merchandising),
 GM (HR/Admin) and
 GM (Finance)

The Head Manufacturing (GM) heads the Pre-Production, Accessories Stores,

Cutting Department, Planning, Industrial Engineering, Sewing Department,
Quality, Finishing, Maintenance and MTM department. The head of departments
has an indirect reporting responsibility to the Marketing/Merchandising
Department. The Marketing/ Merchandising Department have a major role to
play and are involved in every stage of the product development. GM
(Marketing/Merchandising) heads the all the activities in the three departments
namely Marketing/Merchandising, purchase department and fabric department.
Head Finance has mainly two functional areas, the financial activities and the
EXIM or the documentation activities. The GM (HR/Admin) heads the activities
of the HR department, Admin department and the IT department.

The Department heads reports to the respective GMs for the various activities
and major decision making in the departments.

The work flow of Dress masters limited is a planned and coordinated effort from
all the departments. Giving the importance to quality and precision, checks are
performed at every stage of Manufacture right from pre-production to post-
production. There are 16 different departments in dress masters Limited. They
are:

Marketing and
Purchase Planning Fabric Accessory and
Merchandisin
Department Department Department Store
g Department

Industrial
Cutting Sewing CAD Quality
Engineering
Department Department Department Assurance
Department

Accounts and Human Information

Maintenance Resource & Ware house
Finance Technology
Department Administratio Department
Department Department
n Department

19
All these departments are directly or indirectly related to the process of production.
The following flowcharts will explain the working of departments, which are directly
involved for the process of production right from receipt and conformation of order to
purchase than production to final finishing processes.

20
 2.4 Flowchart Explaining Workflow in Departments

20. Sample

21.
Customer/ Mktg/Merchand Patterning Mktg/Merchand
Buyer ising Departmen ising
t
Department Department

S
Sample a
Proto approval m
p
l
e
Pre Production Mktg/Merchand
Sample (to pre ising Order Customer/
production confirmed Buyer
department) Department

Fabric and Purchase Defects

Accessories order to
store Dept. purchase
Dept.

Fabric
Trims
Inspectio Finish
n Sew ing
Cutti ing Finishing
Cutting ng Sewing Dept. Qualit
Dept. Dept. Qual y
22. Qual ity Chec
ity Che k.
23. Che ck.
ck.

Customer/ Shipment Warehousin Packing

Buyer g

21
 24.

25. 3. MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

3.1 Departmental hierarchy

General Manager
(Marketing &
Merchandising)

Manager (Marketing & Manager (Marketing &

Office Assistant
Merchandising) Trousers Merchandising)

Merchandiser Merchandiser

The GM Marketing/Merchandising heads the department. There are two senior

managers reporting to him, one of the managers is responsible for the trousers and
the other manager is responsible for jacket. The managers are supported by the two
and three merchandisers respectively and an assistant for the marketing and
merchandising activities.

The functions of the department are:

 Generation of orders depending on production capacity

 Sample approvals
 Purchase co-ordination
 Generation of BOM
 Delivery of shipment
 Time & Action calendar

22
3.2 Workflow

Receipt of Enquiry

Performance of Feasibility

Confirmation of the Order

Preparation of Samples/Counter Samples

Planning of Material

Preparation of Work Order Finalization of Planning with Factory

Personnel

Information to Purchase for the Placement of Purchase Order

To Sampling Dept

23
3.3 Process flow of Merchandising Department

24
 26.PURCHASE DEPARTMENT

Table 4.1: Work flow of Purchase Department

Enquiry verified by the Supplier

Purchase order placement

Purchase order confirmed by Supplier

Constant quality verification of Supplier at purchase stage

 Before final order placement from the buyer, there is some development period
of 15- 20 days.
 During this development period, purchase department advices the merchandising
department regarding the current rates of the fabrics and the trims in the market.
 Based on that the merchandising department calculates the cost and quotes the
price to the buyer and the order gets confirmed.
 After order confirmation, purchase department receives B.O.M. from
merchandising department for both fabric and trims of a particular department.
 Then it starts sourcing the material from the supplier. 2-3 suppliers are evaluated
in the process.
 Sometimes, suppliers are nominated by the buyers.
 Thus the suppliers are decided based on their background and other such
conditions.
 Eg. For Konaka, silver spark does only job work.
 Average time taken by the fabric supplier : 45 days
 Average time taken by the trims supplier : 15 days

25
 27.5. PLANNING DEPARTMENT

Table 5.1 Departmental hierarchy

Plant Manager

Planning Manager

Office assistance

This department does all the planning related to the production and the delivery.
They do of loading plans for the lines, fabric details plans and the shipment plans.
The department plans the entire production process from the receipt of the fabric, the
cutting plan, the quantity time of loading, type of fabric to be loaded etc.

The PPC does planning for all the Jacket and Trouser lines. Few things that have to
be considered for effective planning are:
1. Fabric & Trims available in-house or to be sourced
2. Sewing capacity
3. Which style to be loaded on a particular line
4. Maintaining input and output on daily basis in each and every line.
5. Machine availability
6. Shipment date

The BOM generated by the marketing department is issued to the stores and other
department by PPC. The PPC is also responsible for issuing cut tickets.

Once the buyer approves the pre-production sample, bulk production has to start. The
CAD department considering the following points generates the marker:

 Fabric width
 Length of the lay
 Size ratio
 Order quantity

26
A mini marker along with details for cutting is generated. The purchase department
generates the BOM. Depending on this the store department issues fabric and trims.
Based on the spreading plan the spreading department spreads the lay and the lay is
shifted to cutting table.

 The cutting department cuts the lay on the basis of mini marker.
 The marker plan is fed into the computer and the auto cutter cuts the patterns
accordingly.
 The cut pieces are then fused and bundled.
 The bundles are then coded and bundle tickets are applied on them.
 The bundles are then issued to the sewing section according to the sewing plan
 Order execution plan is prepared 120 days in advance.

Table 5.2: Work flow of planning department

Receipt of order along with delivery dates & details

Trim & accessories in house & details

Plan capacity accordingly & allocate

Check daily production status

Re plan if delay in current production

Issue trims according to work order

Planning for job work if current capacity is full

Selection of job work vendors

To exercise proper execution of order meeting shipment dates

28.

27
29. 6. FABRIC STORE
6.1 Departmental Hierarchy
This department is headed by the GM of Planning department. There is a head
of department who takes care of the proceedings of the department. The main
functions of the department are:
 Receive the fabric as per BOM
 Inspect the fabric
 Conduct shrinkage and colourfastness tests
 Issue to spreading dept. as per plan
 Receive the end bits

Type of fabrics stored in the department is:

 Shell
 Lining
 Pocketing
 Felt
 Fusing
 Canvas

Fabric Issue for:

 Production
 Sample Pieces

Fabric Issue to:

 Cutting Department
 Sampling Department

Total Manpower: 19

Daily Target for Jacket: 2430m

Daily Target for Trouser 2120m

Daily Target for Vest Coat 1180m

Inspection Machine 5 m/c

CSV Machine 1m/c Juki(SNLS)

28
Figure 6.1: Fabric Store SOP

29
Process
Once the Raw material or fabric is been sent by the suppliers to the company and
once they reach In- House the concerned person keeps the track of all the documents
and material, he/she checks the quantity of material in–house and the material
ordered and cross checks i.e., he checks the materials against invoice/ DC / Packing
list.
After conformation, he/she enters the details in STAGE. After preparing the GRN
(Goods Received Note) they have to do the bill entry and keep the record and
maintain the document of whatever the slips received or delivered.
Then the entries are forwarded to the head office for the checking and payment. Then
after preparing the GRN of everything that has been received a process selection is
been made.

Checking
In this step, the work order is being prepared and also the delivery of goods and the
formalities regarding the goods has to be carried out. All this happens in the process
of receiving the goods to in-house, there has to be another action which the fabric
store has to take care of is the situation of delivering the fabric to the other units and
also to the cutting department of the same unit.
This department receives the required documents of the production issues/exports
and similar other related aspects from the merchants and then as soon as they receive
this they enter the details of the PO/export/process follow ups into the STAGE. The
department then checks the material availability with respect to the PO and other
documents as per the merchants given details. Then they look at the production
issues/export and as per that two things are done. First, they pick the material as per
the approval that would have been given by the fabric audit department and then they
prepare the challan and keep it ready for issue to the cutting department of the unit.

6.2 FABRIC INSPECTION PROCESS

 Complete visual inspection is been done by 4 point inspection system.

 They prepare 8 parameter reports.

 100% checking for the shell fabric, 10% for the pocketing lining and fusing.

 They prepare CSV i.e. (centre to selvedge and selvedge to selvedge).

30
 Plan & Priority sheet
Taken all requirement
taken from fabric store Start 100% inspection for
assets for inspection with
department (issuing jkt, trs, vest coat
face side approval card
operator) in daily basis

Taken cut-table width

(start, middle, end) of
each roll respectively
(Allocate the final width
round indication mark)
Match the length of each
Given penalty points of
roll with respective to
mark on defects as per 4-
supplier specified tag
point system
meter

Make report with If not pass-Keep in reject If pass-Kept in the

allocation % as per 4- rack allocated rack issue to
point system Update bin card cutting

6.3 Inspection Machine

Ramsons-RF101- 3

Sanghai-YBJ180-4

Max roll diameter 350 mm

Speed 0-6 m/min

Stretch adjustment 0-200 N

Total power 1.8 kw

Inspection capacity 0-20m/min

Table 7.3.1: Fabric inspection machine details

6.4 Eight Parameters Report

 Width (inspection time ) roll wise
 Shade band 15/15 cm
 CSV report(10% normally , if CSV found then more)
 Shrinkage report 40 cm
 12.5*12.5 (shrinkage) and fusing 12*12 inches
 Trouser band width 12.5*4 inches
 3 times press and 8 hrs relax
 Fabric inspection report

31
  Face side / Grain line approval card
 Colour fastness (Steam wash, white liquid wash at jacket finishing)
 Shade report(swatch)

6.5 Fabric Suppliers

 Raymond
 Banswara
 Karisma
 Arvin etc.

6.6 Fabric Content

 100 % wool
 50W 50P
 60W 40P
 65W 35N
 100% linen

6.7 Work flow of Fabric Store:

Table 6.7.1: Work flow of fabric store

Incoming Material

Unloading

Temporary Storage For Incoming Goods

Width Checking

Visual Inspection

8 Parameters Preparation

Sending The Report To CAD Dept.

Receive Requisition

Issue Material

Receive Returns

Advise Purchase & Merchandising Dept.

32
7. TRIMS & ACCESSORIES STORE
7.1 Work flow of trims & accessories store
Goods received

Material unloading & temporary storage

Quantity Check

Swatch Preparation

Visual inspection/Quality

Storage in racks

Issueing materials

Returns from line

Trims are materials used to ornament or enhance garments. They are the visible parts
of a garment. Trims can be categorized as decorative and functional trims.

Trim store acts as a storehouse for accessories. It is the place where all the
accessories required are stored. Right from sewing threads, needles to packaging
material like poly bags and tapes etc. all are stored in the trims store.

Once the Raw material or Trims is been sent by the suppliers to the co company and
once they reach In- House the concerned person keeps the track of all the documents
and material, he/she checks the quantity of material in–house and the material
ordered and cross checks i.e., he checks the materials against invoice/ DC / Packing
list.
After conformation, he/she enters the details in STAGE. After preparing the GRN
(Goods Received Note) they have to do the bill entry and keep the record and
maintain the document of whatever the slips received or delivered.
Then the entries are forwarded to the head office for the checking and payment. Then
after preparing the GRN of everything that has been received a process selection is
been made.

Quality check for trims:

 Zipper – colour, length, puller, working condition etc.

 Label – print quality, colour, size etc.
 Buttons – broken, without hole, colour, size, thickness etc.

33
  Thread – colour, no. of ply, ticket no. etc.
 Elastic – width, stretchability
 Twill Tape – width, weave structure, colour
 Hang Tags – size, colour, print, string
 Stickers – gum strength, colour, size print quality etc.
 Sizer – Print quality, size.
 Polybag – measurement, print quality

Machines in the Trim Stores

 Weighing Machine – ESSae-DC-85

 Winding Machine – S-1076

Total no. of racks: 6 (A-F)

 Rack A – Labels All labels)

 Rack B – Buttons
 Rack C– Packing trims, Tag strip, Label pins
 Rack D – Stationary
 Rack E –Zippers, Stationary
 Rack F – Waist band lining

34
SOP of Trims store

Figure 7.1: Trim store SOP

35
 AQL Chart

The AQL for Trims is 2.5

Quantity Recd. Sample Size Pass Fail

0-280 13 0 1

281-500 20 1 2

501-1200 32 2 3

1201-3200 50 3 4

3201-10000 80 5 6

10001-35000 125 7 8

35001 and above 300 14 15

Table 7.2- AQL Chart

8. CUTTING DEPARTMENT
Cutting department has five sections.

 CAD
 Pattern Making
 Spreading
 Cutting
 Fusing

8.1 CAD

Table 8.1.1: Work flow of CAD

36
CAD section is responsible for making the markers made by the pattern making
department and accordingly release the lay reports and cut order plan.

Spreading department is responsible for spreading the fabric according to the lay
reports released by the CAD department.

Cutting section cut the spread lay according to the online marker sent by the CAD
section. Also a hardcopy of mini marker & stickers are provided to them hence when
the pieces are cut, they are marked with the help of stickers at the very moment to
avoid confusion.

Ticketing & bundling section number each & every part so that while sewing proper
parts of the jacket or trouser can be matched.

The width report and patterns are received electronically via mail so that the CAD
department can start with a pattern, while file and 8 parameter reports is received
later in hard copy.

While issuing the patterns they need to make entry into records about patterns of
what order were received by whom in CAD from whom in pattern department and
take the respective signatures. The marker is directly communicated to the cutting
machine electronically (“Cut File”) or to the plotting machine.

They make around 60 markers per style (lining, shell, trim fabrics combined)
according to quantities corresponding to different sizes.

37
 8.1.2 Process flow of CAD

Approved copy of
fabric details,
swatch cards, & 10
Parameters report

BOM received

Patterns making
Patterns received
department

Patterns checked
Planning with
with model sample
details
& fabrics

Sent for relaying

Marker making
according to plan &
consumption

CSV No CSV Preparing bundle

sticker print out

Checking CSV Pattern collection in Nester

report
Preparing bundle
sticker print out

Size wise patterns Automatic marker making

entry in Morgan

Cut file
generation
Placing same size
patterns in same
shade area
Correction
Issue to laying

Marker Made
Incorrect

Correct
Fill lay report & Consumption
check marker & ratio
checking

38
8.2 Process flow of Pattern making

Merchandiser

Spec sheet &

Pattern Indent

Pattern Made (Proto

sample)

Sampling of one
piece

Fail

Buyer’s Correction made

approval

Passe
d
Pre-production Sample approved
sample made

Fail
Checking Correction made PPS approved

Passe
d
Size set

In house comments

Corrections Grading Marker Planning

Production

39
8.3 Spreading Section Process Flow Chart

Roll indent received

Not ok
Checking Informed to fabric
of rolls store

Rolls assigned
according to width &
shade by CAD
department

Lay report sent by

CAD department

Lay according to lay Face one way

report (Face up)

Face to Face Lay pulled to Transferred to

moving table cutting

Type of laying methods

 Manual Spreading

8.3.1 Manual Spreading

Manual spreading is done for Shell & Lining fabrics. After the fabric is issued from
store the fabric is checked with 8 parameter shade card. The marker length, width
and number of plies from lay report are checked to ensure that proper fabric article is
selected according to the lay report. The lay length & number of plies depend on the
cut plan. During spreading all the plies are matched properly on both the sides by
workers.

In case of stripes more than 7mm & checks the spreading of the fabric is carried out
in pinning table.

40
8.4 Relaying
In case of stripes over 7mm and checks fabrics, the alignment in proper position is
very important in order to give the end product the required design match. It is
achieved by re-spreading the block cut panels with the help of needles & relaying
table. Relaying table has slots for needles to fit in. After relaying, the blocks are then
cut precisely on band knife cutting machine to get the ready cut parts.

41
8.5 Cutting section Process Flow Chart

Lay received Marker Sheet

Marker plan Marker Plan

sent by CAD name identified
department

Marker Plan
run

Cutting

Not ok
Panel Re-cutting
checking

Ok

Numbering Plotting patterns

received from CAD

Relaying & Re-

cutting

Not ok
Defect Re-cutting
checking

Ok

Fusing

Ticketing &
Loading for
Bundling
sewing

42
8.6 Cutting process
The cutting department receives shell fabric, lining, fusing, canvas, felt, pocketing
from the stores, while referring to the indent.

Along with the fabric, the cutting department also receives CAD markers from the
CAD department, which includes the spreading report and the ratio details. Marker
gives an idea about the lay length.

 Cutting capacity: 2500 jackets, 3500 trousers

 Presently achieved: 74%

Critical factors while cutting

 Pressure required for vacuum: 15cm-Hg

 Knife speed: 3900 rpm
 Cut speed: 2743 cm/min
 Knife wear: 7500 sharpens
 Sharpen cycle: 5
 Sharpen frequency: 100 cm

Figure 8.6.1- GERBER Cutter

All the pieces on marker can be given a number so that the machine can sequentially
cut the parts and the direction of blade movement can be changed.

Cutting check point:

 Marker plan should be strictly followed.

 All cut panel shape and size should match with the marker plan
 Notch should be perfect & of required size and type.

43
  Panel should perfectly match with the pattern.

The Production planning & control team sends the cutting schedule a week before.
Marker is prepared 3 days before cutting. And Cutting is done 1 or 2 days before
feeding date & stored.

Quality team reports the shrinkage% to the pattern master, who in turn adds it to the
final pattern, which is digitized and used for marker making.

Splicing is not done. Re-cutting of defected pieces is done. The fabric defects are
easy to identify as fabric inspector puts marks on defects. After cutting, pieces are
numbered, checked for defects and re-cutting orders given.

Figure8.6.2- Band knife cutting

8.7 Numbering
 The numbering of parts is done for a particular lay in order to avoid the
problem of shade-variation in the garment and to assure the different parts for a
single garment should be from the same layer of the fabric.
 In addition, it helps the workers to have a perfect count of the parts and thus,
helps in avoiding the misplacement of parts.

44
 Figure 8.7.1- Numbering

8.8 Panel inspection

 100% inspections of all the parts are carried out in order to check for any
defects in the fabric, line matching and any other problem.
 After inspection and rejection, re-cutting of defective parts is done and
required numbers of pieces are cut of the required part of required size.
 Then after the cut parts are ready, they are issued to the sewing department,
where they are bundled for appropriate WIP maintenance.
 Extra rolls are sent back to the store. But the end bits are still kept in the
cutting department only, till the order is shipped.

Figure 8.8.1- Panel Checking

45
8.9 Fusing section Process Flow Chart

Panel
Inspection

Block cut

Fusing parts
applied

Fusing

If not found Pieces not found

Numbering Piece Informed to
tallied tracking supervisor

If all pieces
Pieces found
found

Bundling

Stored in the
trolleys to be
sent for sewing

8.9.1 Fusing
The fusing parameters (temperature, pressure & speed) are set as per the fabric and
interlining quality. Both woven & non-woven fusing are used as per specifications.
The fusing parameters are:

 Temperature: 130 degree C.

 Speed of fusing machine: 15-25m/min
 Pressure: 3 bar
 Bond strength: 1000 gm bond strength
 Panel checking/final auditing after fusing is done.

46
9. SEWING DEPARTMENT
Sewing department’s function is the crucial and most vital job in a garment industry.
This department makes the plans, pattern and material in to a garment; this is the
place where actual production takes place. After the fabric is released from cutting, it
is passed on to the sewing department for the sewing. The various parts are stitched
together to form the garments.

The sewing section is comprised of:

 Jacket Lines
 Trouser Lines
 Vest coat lines

9.1 The Department structure

The Head Manufacturing (GM) heads the department. Plant Manager assists the
GM in all the manufacturing activities. All the section heads reports to the Plant
manager. All the three lines jacket section has one Production Manager and
Production Engineer each. There are a section in charge and a feeding helper
assisting the Production Manager and Production Engineer. There are nine section
in-charges; twenty-nine Team Leaders and three hundred sixty three operators
reporting to the Production Manager and Production Engineer.

Trousers section has its operation in the basement and there is a Technical and a
Production Manager for this department. In the basement there is a Floor in-
charge, fifteen supervisors, twenty three Team Leader and five hundred and sixty
seven operators.

47
9.2 Flowchart showing the structure of Sewing Department

Receipt of material from Cutting

Department

Trouser Line Sewing Jacket Line Finishing

Quality Check. Quality Check.

Preparatory section Proto Part Section

Front & back, lining, collar, sleeve

Front & back end line basement

Quality Check
Quality Check

Trousers Assembly line Jacket Assembly line

Quality Check Quality Check

Finishing Department Finishing Department

Quality Check Quality Check

Warehousing

48
9.3 Jacket Line
There are three jacket lines at DMAPL, the brief description of their capacity and
clientele is as follows:

Line No. BUDGET Average Buyer

Daily

Prod.

Line 1 480 416 Blackberries, ITC

Line 2 480 400 RAL

Line 3 and 300 268 RAL

Line 4

Table 9.3.1- Jacket capacity per line

Each Jacket line is composed of:

Parts Section: collar, fusing, lining, small parts (canvas, facing flaps& facing) and
sleeve sections.
Assembly
The SAM for a basic Jacket is 65-70. The Jacket line follows the UPS system of
production. The material moves on overhead hangers.

The different types of jackets made at DMAPL are:

 Half Canvas
 Full Canvas
 Floating Canvas
 No vent
 Single Centre Vent
 Double vent (one on each side)
 Full Lining
 Half Lining

The Jackets produced at DMAPL are world class and can be compared with the
quality the quality produced anywhere in the world. The major buyers are:

1. Charles Tyrwhitt
2. Blackberry

49
 3. ITC
4. Raymond’s
5. BRFS
6. Peerless, etc..

9.4 Trouser Line

The operation of Trousers line is categorized into three sections; preparatory section,
front and back end line and the a0ssembly line. In the preparatory section the basic
parts of the garment is matched and graded for the production. Then it is send to the
front and back end line where the front side and the backside of a trouser are made
and finally to the assembly line for the final assembling of the parts.

There are four trouser lines at DMAPL, the brief description of their capacity and
clientele is as follows:

Budget Average Daily Client

Line No. Production

Line 1 400 380 BRFS

Line 2 400 400 Charles Tyrwhitt

Line 3 300 240 JCP

Line 4 350 324 RAL

Table 9.4.1: Capacity of each line of Trouser

The different types of trousers made are:

 Double pleated
 Single pleated
 Flat front
The material handling and movement in the preparatory and front & back sections is
on waterfall trolleys and the assembly lines are based on UPS system. The material
flow is on manually controlled overhead trolleys.

50
 30. 10. FINISHING DEPARTMENT
10.1 Process flow
The process flow of finishing department is as follows

Sewing section

Finishing section

Finishing processes
Rejected

100% inspection

100% final audit

Warehouse

Packing

Dispatch

Table 10.1.1: Process flow of finishing department

The finishing facility at DMAPL is highly mechanised with modern state of art
machinery. The finishing department at DMAPL also has the exclusive license to use
the SI-RO-SET chemical for permanent crease setting. It is used for both jackets as
well as trousers. The finishing process for jackets and trousers is as given below

51
The trouser finishing involves the following steps:

Double Legger (Temporary crease)

SI-RO-SET (for 100% wool)

Legger Pressing

Topper Pressing

Topper with SI-RO-SET

Remove Crease marks

Final Touch up

Inspection

Warehouse

Table 10.1.2: Finishing of trouser

52
The jacket finishing involves the following steps:

Spot washing

Front & Back Pressing

Shoulder pressing

Sleeve nipping

Sleeve blocking

Collar pressing

Lining pressing

Elbow pressing

Lapel Pressing

Button attach

Wrapping & knotting

Auditing

Inspection

Warehouse

Table10.1.3: Finishing of jacket

53
 11. QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT
The objective of the quality assurance and control department is to deliver quality
product by thoroughly checking the quality of the product produced by the production
department as per the requirement of the buyer.

Quality Assurance department has its presence in every stages of the production. The
Quality Assurance Department‘s function starts with receipt of the fabric that is, once
the fabric and trims reaches the stores the quality of the fabric and trims are checked.
The operation continues throughout cutting and sewing process.

After each operation the quality checks are done and in the finishing department a
detailed quality check is done and is sent for alteration in case of any defects, finally
approve the trousers and jackets for packing.

The objective of quality department is impart quality in the product

 To ensure that the product has achieved the quality parameters of buyers.

 To restrict the defects entering into the final product

Sub objectives:
 To check the products for any defects

 To send back the pieces for alteration

 To recheck the altered pieces for any defects possible

 To clear the product for packing and shipment

11.1 QC in stores
.

Checking fabric
Checking of
for 8 parameters Report sent to
product against
& generation of CAD
approved fabric
8 parameters department
& trims
report

54
After spreading, the fabric ply is pulled with the help of perforated paper to the
automatic cutter. Fabric is cut through automatic cutting machine.

Checking of
fabric lay &
Checking of Check marker
count no. of
cut parts for all parts
plies as per
lay report

11.2 Cutting inspection criteria

100% cut blocks (top/mid/bottom pieces) are inspected with the pattern by
stationary checkers for below mentioned points:
 Notch depth/missing notch

 Wrong size

 Wrong serial number

 Panel length/width

 Parts missing

 Mismatch stripe/checks

 Bowing cut parts

 Shape off/wavy cut

11.3 QUALITY IN FUSING

Check correct pairing for

Check sorting sewing to avoid shade
variation

11.4 QUALITY IN SEWING

100% inspection of jacket& trouser is practiced in the company.
Parts
1. Front & Back inspection report of Quality checking.
2. Front Measurement inspection random.

55
 3. Lining inspection Quality report.
End line
1. End line Inspection report for 100% inspection.
2. End line inspection report for random measurement

11.4.1 QUALITY CHECK IN JACKET SEWING

Zone A - Top Quality Surface exposed to close customer scrutiny & affecting the
finished appearance of garment. (Front & Back Section of Jacket)
Zone B - Surface area where spots are less conspicuous to customer viewing
(Under Sleeve & Upper Sleeve)
Zone C - Internal Surface that are somewhat hidden from Customer view. (Inside
of Jacket i.e. lining)

FRONT SECTION CHECK POINTS

MISCELLANEOUS
 Match the Garment ticket number

 Shade variation within panels and between 2 panels

 Damage & Weave defects

 SPI

 Style Check

POCKET
 Check the stripes/checks matching and bend for the breast pocket

 Check the Shape of the chest pocket, Flap and side pocket

 Check the chest pocket bone/welt stitch for puckering and stitch open

 Check the pocket bag open/improper

 Check the breast pocket, lower pocket Up & Down

 Check the breast pocket zigzag

 Check the breast pocket V-notch

 Check for pocket bone tacking

 Check for pocket welt smiling

 Check for front pocket folding

 Check for edge of the welt pocket for pleat, stitch open.

 Check for flap lining showing out, uneven

 Check for flap width evenness

56
FRONT
 Check stripes/checks matching and bend of the side panel

 Check the side seam for seam puckering

 Check the side seam for open stitch

 Check the seam allowance

 Check the dart bend, dimp, loose stitch and stitch open

 Check the shoulder seam

 Shoulder pad improper

 Chest piece improper

 Under armhole pressing uneven.

 Bridal tape tight/open

BACK

 Check stripes/checks matching and bend of the back seam

 Check the back seat for seam puckering

 Check the back seat for open stitch

 Check the back vent up and down

 Check for bottom folding

LINING CHECK POINTS

 Check shade variation

 SPI

 Damage

 Check lining pocket welt stitch

 Check center back seam loose stitching and puckering

 Check side seam loose stitch and puckering

 Check triangular flap

 Check brand label stitch uneven & cross

 Check for size label improper and stitch open

57
  Check for front side seam loose stitch and puckering

 Check for facing collar attaching up & down

 Check for facing collar attaching seam balance out

 Check for lining collar neck attaching notch to notch

 Check for lining collar neck attaching puckering/pleat

 Check for shoulder seam loose stitch & puckering

 Check for facing & piping uneven and pleat

 Check the saddle stitch uneven and miss stitch

 Check the checks matching at lining facing

 Check the bridle tape for tight/open

 Check for looseness & pleat in facing

 Check for pocket smiling

 Check for seam allowance

SLEEVE ATTACHMENT CHECKING

 SPI

 Fabric damage

 Shade variation

 Check the elbow seam loose stitch & puckering

 Check the elbow seam checks miss matching

 Check the sleeve bottom folding improper

 Check the lining elbow seam loose stitch & puckering

 Check the sleeve vents tacking miss & open

 Check the sleeve SAM hole stitch miss & open

 Check the sleeve bottom attaching wrong

 Check the sleeve button thread miss matching

 Check the sleeve bottom & lining stitch improper

 Check the sleeve button & lining stitch margin out

 Check the sleeve inseam loose stitch & open

58
  Check the sleeve lining loose stitch & open

 Check the sleeve inseam tacking tight & improper

 Check the elbow seam tacking miss and tight

 Check the sleeve gathering improper

 Check the sleeve vent up & down

 Sleeve attach puckering in front side

 Sleeve attach puckering in back side

 Sleeve attach stitch open & pleat

 Sleeve balance out

 Sleeve pad fold

 Sleeve checks miss matching

 Sleeve basting notch out

 Armhole closing improper/open/loose stitch

 Sleeve closing margin out

 Sleeve head roll fold

 Sleeve crown gathering

 Sleeve crown cross

ASSEMBLY-1 CHECK POINTS

 SPI

 Check the front edge shape out

 Check the peak fullness

 Check the zigzag seam and loose stitch

 Check the peak shape

 Label peak uneven and open

 Label and collar shape improper

 Front edge piping and shape improper

 Facing and front attaching improper

 Gorge seam improper and open

 Gorge seam pleat and shape out

59
  Front end fullness improper

 Lining bottom open and tacking miss

 Side vent improper

 Back vent improper

 Top stitch improper

 Button hole cross and bar tack miss

 Flower button hole miss and cross

 Bottom tight

 Bottom round shape improper

 Bottom uneven

 Seam open/loose stitch

 Collar felt visible

 Lapel break improper

 Collar and back stripe mismatching

MEASUREMENT CHECK POINTS

 Back body length- CB from neck

 Collar Height at CB

 Across shoulder (point to Point)

 Back neck width

 Button Stance

 Collar Point

 Lapel Point

 Lapel Width

ASSEMBLY -2 CHECK POINTS

1. COLLAR SECTION

 Collar Zigzag.

 Open collar/felt open.

 Stand stitch open.

 Stripes/checks mirror images.

60
2. FRONT SECTION

 Damage and weaving.

 Breast pocket improper/open.

 Dart stitch open/improper.

 Side panel open/improper.

 Front bone stitch open/improper.

 Flap stripes/checks mismatching.

 Flap lining visible/improper.

 Front pocket open.

 Side stitch open/puckering.

 Back stitch open/puckering.

 Shoulder stitch open/improper.

 Shoulder pressing and piping

3. LINING SECTION

 Lining damage/weaving.

 Facing stitch open/improper.

 Lining pocket open/improper.

 Pocket corner open/improper.

 Size label and brand label open/missing/improper.

 Lining open.

 Lining top stitch open/missing/improper.

 Lining shoulder stitch open.

 Saddle stitch open/missing/improper.

 Facing and collar attaching improper.

4. SLEEVE SECTION
 Sleeve button missing/loose stitch.

 Elbow seam stitch open.

 Elbow seam checks not matching.

 Sleeve inseam stitch open.

61
  Sleeve vent improper.

 Sleeve inseam tacking & elbow tacking missing.

 Sleeve lining seam stitching open and loose.

 Sleeve bottom hem open.

 Prick stitch open.

 Bottom lining open.

 Lapel peak shape out.

 Front edge stitch open and loose stitch.

 Front edge shape out.

 Button hole cross & miss & stitch open.

 Flower button hole miss.

 Bar tack miss.

 Side vent stitch open &centre vent stitch open.

GENERAL
 Hanger loop miss and thread change.

 Sleeve attaching puckering in front side.

 Sleeve attaching puckering in back side.

 Sleeve attaching stitch open and pleat.

 Sleeve balance out.

 Shoulder pad fold.

 Sleeve head roll fold.

 Sleeve checks miss matching.

 Sleeve basting notch out.

 Armhole closing improper/open/loose stitch.

 Sleeve closing margin out.

 Sleeve kinari stitch open and pleat.

 Sleeve crown gathering.

 Sleeve crown cross.

 SPI

62
11.4.2 Quality check of Trouser line
ZONE A: Top quality surface exposed to close customer security & affecting the
finished appearance of the garment
ZONE B: Surface area where spots are less conspicuous to customer viewing
ZONE C: Internal surface that are somewhat hidden from customer view.

GENERAL CHECK POINTS IN TROUSER

MISCELLANEOUS:
1. Match the Garment ticket number
2. Shade variation within panels and between panels
3. Damage & Weave defects
4. SPI
5. Style check

POCKETS:
1. Check the stripes/checks of the side pocket matching with the front and
back panel
2. Check the Shape of the side pocket
3. Check the pocket bag open/improper
4. Check whether the left & right side pocket are mirror image of each other
5. Check the top stitch of side pocket
6. Check the stripes/checks of the welt pocket matching with the back panel
7. Check for welt pocket lip
8. Check the welt pocket bar tack
9. Check for pocket bone tacking
10. Check for edge of the welt pocket for pleat, stitch open.
11. Check the welt pocket stitch for puckering and stitch open

FRONT & BACK

1. Check whether the front panels and back panels are the mirror image of
each other
2. Check the checks/stripes matching at side seam
3. Check the checks/stripes matching at inseam
4. Check the side pocket shape

63
 5. Check whether the left and right side pockets are mirror image of each
other
6. Check the side pocket top stitch
7. Check for side pocket stitch open/puckering
8. Check the brand label placement
9. Check the brand label stitch open/ puckering
10. Check the side pocket bag tacking
11. Check for welt pocket lip
12. Check for welt pocket stitch for puckering / stitch open
13. Check for welt pocket bar tack
14. Check for the back dart bend, dimp, loose stitch and stitch open.
15. Check side seam for seam puckering/ open stitch
16. Check in seam for seam puckering/ open stitch
17. Check for seam allowance

ASSEMBLY
1. SPI
2. Check the waist band loop placement
3. Check the waist band attach seam for puckering/ open stitch
4. Check whether the left & right waist band are mirror image of each other
5. Check the waist band extension shape
6. Check the hook & bar placement
7. Check the J –stitch is proper
8. Check for the front rise & crotch attach
9. Check for the front rise seam open/ puckering
10. Check the slider is proper
11. Check the button hole stitch open/ button hole placement
12. Check the back rise seam open/puckering
13. Check the side pocket bartack proper
14. Check the fly bartack
15. Check the waistband button placement

64
 16. Check the back pocket button placement
17. Check the belt loop bartack
18. Check the bottom overlock
19. Check the bottom hem
20. Check for loose button
21. Check the zipper and slider functioning properly
22. Check for bottom sergeing improper

31. 12. IT DEPARTMENT

The information technology department consists of 3 people in all.
The ERP used is STAGE, on which end to end documents are synchronized
from purchase order till shipment confirmation. The software is updated as
soon as the latest version is available. It has been upgraded 4 times since
adopted. It accommodates 50 users.
Other than the ERP, other software usage is in CAD/CAM department. Gerber
6.0 was adopted in 2004 during the establishment of the facility.
The department follows a proper set Standard Operating Procedures. It states
the terms and conditions about the usage of data by each and every employee
along with their login id and password and other authorization details.

32. 13. EXIM DEPARTMENT

This is another department which is headed by the head finance. This
department mainly takes care of the exports and the imports. The licensing
processes, the shipment activities, the receipt of the imports, etc. they are
responsible for acquisition of the JTFT license (advance license for fabric trims
& embellishments), EPCG license for imports of capital goods, Annexure 3 for
jobbing purpose and annexure 1 for local purchase. Acquisition of this license
helps the organization to be covered under certain import and export duties. All
the documents, the invoices and the packing lists are declared under these
licenses for export obligations. This department takes care of the bill of leading
and other related documents. And finally the complete set of documents are
sent to the buyer and in case of LC or letter of credit one set of the original
document is sent to the bank for payment. In the case of imports the invoice
will be concern to the bank or some case to the company. When the invoice is
concerned to the bank, the bank sets the document and the same is sent for the
clearance. Once the shipment arrives here the liner receives the cargo arrival
notice (CAN) and that is forwarded to the forwarder for clearance.
The Head Accounts & Finance heads the Department. Dy. Manager, Senior
Manager and Asst. Manager support Head Accounts & Finance in all the
accounting operations. There are two executive reporting to Dy. Manager.

65
Head Accounts & Finance also heads the EXIM (Document) functions. There
are two executives of EXIM and one administrative assistant and an executive
admin in this department reporting to the accounts & finance head.
The department is involved in documenting and implementing all the export
and import policies which are in compliance with the Indian as well
international laws.
The functions of Documentation department are:
 Licensing

 Documentation of certification

 Logistics Documentation

 Shipment details as per the buyer

 Customs Clearance

 Bank documents

 Documentation of Payment to suppliers

 Duty exemptions documents …etc.

66
 Table 13.1: Process flow of Exim department

33.

67
 34.14. INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT
Industrial engineering department is the brain of any industry and garment
industry is no other exception. The industrial engineering department is
responsible for all the factory operations. The operation of this department
starts from the receipt of the order from the buyer. Once the customers place
the order the merchandise department forwards the order to the industrial
engineering department for the processing. They then prepare the CM cost (cut
make cost). This includes:

 Operational run
 SAM (standard allocated minute) for each individual operation
 Cost per machine hour is calculated
 Standard achievable efficiency, etc are calculated and forwarded back
to the merchandise department
The operation continues once the order is confirmed. The APS or the Approved
Production Sample is given to the department, here the sequence of the process
is studied, and the necessary suggestions for changes are made if required. And
also in the receipt of the confirmed order the complete operation bulletin is
prepared, along with all the attachments, guidelines and files the documents are
forwarded to the production department with all other accessories. They also
have certain functions like going to the line while the batch is set, during menu
style loading and so on. They ensure the process is running smoothly the go for
continues checking till the first product comes out. After that they will have a
periodic check for line balancing exercise for productivity improvement. They
also monitor the manpower allotment. The finally the reports generate and the
performance is evaluated as per the actual target and the achievement and the
same report is sent to the management. The industrial engineering department
also under takes projects, setting up lines maintenance &utility, R&D activities
etc.

14.1 DEPARTMENTAL HIERARCHY

IE EXECUTIVE (TROUSER)
I.E. Assistants

PLANT HEAD

IE EXECUTIVE (JACKET)
I.E. Assistants

There are 5 I.E. assistants, 2 for jacket and 3 for trouser. They maintain the report
of production. The reports are mainly-

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 1. Time study
2. Skill matrix maintain
3. Production report
4. Efficiency and productivity report
5. Incentive report
6. IE performance report

They work in PROMAN software.

14.2 WORK FLOW OF IE DEPARTMENT

Table 14.2.1: Work flow of IE department

Calculate SAM of garment freshly ordered to calculate different consumptions
Work measurement of a new confirmed order
To advice production department on garment SAM & line layout
Day to day activity
To calculate line efficiency
To calculate operator efficiency
Grade change of operators
Time & method study
Line balancing
Check for work aid & compliances
Preparation of incentive scheme

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 35. 15. MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT
15.1 DEPARTMENTAL HIERARCHY

Table 15.1: Hierarchy of maintenance department

assistants(trousers)

assistants (Utility
section)

Assistant maintenance
Plant Manager Maintenance officer assistants(Jackets)
officer

assistants(Pressing)

assistants( Cutting)

15.2 WORK DONE BY MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT:

1. Servicing of machine.
2. Modifying machines for the ease of using
3. Checking of Boilers for steam.
4. Water supply for the whole plant
5. Hard water refining
6. Electricity supply—if power is gone then starting of generator.
7. Building maintenance.
8. Oil change.
9. Replacement of defective parts
10. Servicing of Motor.
11. Checking of Motor

16. FINANCE DEPARTMENT:

o The finance department mainly has two operations. They are
 Accounts

 Finance

o Accounting operations handles the activities like the

o Purchase booking, that is, the bill booking etc

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o Sales booking
o Expense booking
o Payments booking, that is, payments of bills as per the Goods Received Note or
GRN of the stores department.
o Finance operation mainly takes care of all the finance operation. They are:
 Collection, that is, collection of payments from the customers.

 Letter of credit or LC , the finance operation will take care of these

operation.

 Bank Guarantee or BG is also taken care by this department.

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17. HUMAN RESOURCE DEPARTMENT
The Human Resource Department is headed by the HR manager, under who is
the assistant manager.
The department also comprises of junior managers for different sectors like
Recruitment, Welfare, Transportation and Payroll. The total strength of the
department is 17, including various office assistants and trainers.
The recruitment can be in various formats like Campus placement Cells, In-
office recruitment, Recommendations or Walk-In Interviews depending on the
requirements of various departments prior in hand with the HR.
Every employee and operator is made to set up a new salary account in which
the pay checks are deposited every month. A muster roll and absentee register
is maintained for proper records. All the operators are on a fixed wage basis.
Overtime is paid as double the amount of their basic.
The HR is also responsible for making sure the presence of floaters and
contracted labour.
The welfare segment takes care of the basic amenities of the operators since
95% of them are female operators. They are provided with the facility of Child-
Day care. Also once in a month, the operators are engaged in recreational
activities.

17.1 DEPARTMENTAL HIERARCHY

Table 17.1.1: Department hierarchy

HR manager

Assistant HR
Manager

Junior Junior Junior Junior

Manager Office
Manager Manager Manager
Payroll assistants
Recruitment Welfare Transportation

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18. WAREHOUSE
18.1 Departmental hierarchy:

Table 18.1.1: Department hierarchy

Warehouse Incharge

Trouser warehouse Jacket warehouse

supervisor supervisor
5 operator (1 op. for 1 5 operator (1 op. for 1
line) line)

Data entry operator-1 Data entry operator-1

18.2 WORK FLOW

Table 18.2.1: Work flow of Warehouse

Recieve from finishing

Check (p.o, file, lot, qty)
Space or rack check for allotment
For suit pairing trouser
Counting order quantity
Matching (Pair check)

Packing list preparation

Auditing (internal)
OCR report making
Shipment

18.3 TROUSER WAREHOUSE

Warehouse is the last stage where the trousers are stored till the date of
shipment.
It has the capacity of 80000 pieces per month. The major problem faced by the
trouser warehouse was the missing trousers due to four exit points. Trims were
delayed resulting in a stuck up inventory in packing area which eventually
flooded warehouse.

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Space allocation in warehouse is line-wise too. Line-wise receiving and hourly up
gradation of the status colour-wise and size-wise is done with 100% checking for
packing accuracy and daily tallying of sending and receiving report.

18.4 JACKET
Warehouse for jacket is huge with a capacity of 40000 pieces per month. Here too
line-wise segregation is done though not followed. There‘s only one entry point for
the jackets. All other exit points are sealed with security code. Dehumidifiers are
provided at places on the request of the buyer Konaka which wants a particular
temperature and humidity to be maintained. Maintenance department has to check it
daily. Final audit, loading in the container and dispatch of the garments takes place
from the warehouse.

Rack and division wise allotment in warehouse:

Figure 18.4.1- Warehouse rack system

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PROJECT

75
1. PROJECT OVERVIEW
1.1 Introduction:
In the 1980’s the garment industry was led by fashion and retailing and the emphasis
was on technologies in the demand-related parts of the supply chain. India ranks
among the top target countries for any company sourcing textiles and apparel.
Indeed, apart from China, no other country can match the size, spread, depth, and
competitiveness of the Indian textile and apparel industry.
Moreover, the global elimination of quotas at the end of 2004 has greatly enhanced
the opportunities for sourcing from India. India supplies over US$13 billion worth of
textiles and apparel to the world markets. And exports are growing rapidly as more
and more buyers around the world turn to India as an alternative to China. In 2005 –
spurred by the global elimination of quotas – shipments to the EU soared by 30%
and those to the USA shot up by 34%. These increases are remarkable, given that EU
imports from all sources rose by only 8% while US import growth was just 6%.
Consumer spending is slowing down all over the world. Retailers are looking for real
innovation from their suppliers. They want really new garments made from new
fabrics and yarns. They want new services to offer their customers. Competition in
the late 1990s will be based on the capabilities and core competences of textile and
clothing companies and on the building of long-term supply relationships. There are
many opportunities to be addressed. Textile and clothing machinery will continue to
be improved but the most interesting technologies for the 2000s are in the areas of
fibres, fabrics, measurement, control and multimedia. We can say a garment industry
is an independent industry from the basic requirement of raw material to final
products, with huge value addition at every stage of processing, Apparel industry is
largest foreign exchange earning sector contributing 15% of the total country export.
In this scenario, the Indian garment industries have witnessed substantial
improvements in recent years. But the unnecessary capital investment is not going to
solve the problem entirely; moderately this will turn out the waste in long run. The
implementation of lean manufacturing is greatly recommended, in order to identify
the waste and to eliminate them.

1.2 Project Brief:

This project is all about identifying and eliminating or simplifying major problem
creating areas for the factory whenever there is a style change in its lines. This
project would even encompass streamlining the pre-production activities carried out
in the organisation so that the losses during changeovers can be reduced.

1.3 Project Locale

Dress Master Apparel Pvt. Ltd. Plot No. 76 & 77 Peenya Industrial Area 6 th Main
Phase, Bangaluru- 560058

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 1.4 Project Title
Achieving Quick Changeover through SMED implementation at Dress Master
Apparel Pvt. Ltd., Bengaluru.
1.5 Significance of the Project
Most of the factories in India still follow the traditional ways of changeover in that
they do not segregate their internal and external activities, maintain high inventory
levels, having large lot sizes, etc. But this generates lots of problems and leads to
under-utilization ofresources and time. This is a major loss for the organization, as in
the current situations where there is an increasing demand in the product variety,
smaller lot sizes, unpredictable market trends and very tight profit margins, every
penny saved is a penny profited for the organization. And this cannot be done by
following earlier methods of setup and inventory management. The next step for
organizations catering to high variety low volume orders is quick changeover,
without which the company is liable to lose a lot. And the sooner they realize this,
the better.

2. REVIEW OF LITERATURE
2.1 Lean Manufacturing
The core idea of lean manufacturing is to maximize customer value while
minimizing waste. Simply, lean means creating more value for customers with fewer
resources.
A lean organization understands customer value and focuses its key processes to
continuously increase it. The ultimate goal is to provide perfect value to the customer
through a perfect value creation process that has zero waste.
To accomplish this, lean thinking changes the focus of management from optimizing
separate technologies, assets, and vertical departments to optimizing the flow of
products and services through entire value streams that flow horizontally across
technologies, assets, and departments to customers.
Eliminating waste along entire value streams, instead of at isolated points, creates
processes that need less human effort, less space, less capital, and less time to make
products and services at far less costs and with much fewer defects, compared with
traditional business systems. Companies are able to respond to changing customer
desires with high variety, high quality, low cost, and with very fast throughput times.
Also, information management becomes much simpler and more accurate.

2.1.1 A Brief History of Lean Manufacturing

Henry Ford was one of the first people to develop the ideas behind lean
manufacturing. He used the idea of "continuous flow" on the assembly line for
his Model T automobile, where he kept production standards extremely tight, so
each stage of the process fitted together with each other stage, perfectly. This
resulted in little waste.
But Ford's process wasn't flexible. His assembly lines produced the same thing,
again and again, and the process didn't easily allow for any modifications or

77
 changes to the end product – a Model T assembly line produced only the Model
T. It was also a "push" process, where Ford set the level of production, instead of
a "pull" process led by consumer demand. This led to large inventories of unsold
automobiles, ultimately resulting in lots of wasted money.
Other manufacturers began to use Ford's ideas, but many realized that the
inflexibility of his system was a problem. Taiichi Ohno of Toyota then developed
the Toyota Production System (TPS), which used Just In Time manufacturing
methods to increase efficiency. As Womack reported in his book, Toyota used
this process successfully and, as a result, eventually emerged as one the most
profitable manufacturing companies in the world.

2.1.2 Lean Manufacturing Basics

Lean manufacturing is based on finding efficiencies and removing wasteful steps
that don't add value to the end product. There's no need to reduce quality with
lean manufacturing – the cuts are a result of finding better, more efficient ways
of accomplishing the same tasks.
To find the efficiencies, lean manufacturing adopts a customer-value focus,
asking "What is the customer willing to pay for?" Customers want value, and
they'll pay only if their needs are met. They shouldn't pay for defects, or for the
extra cost of having large inventories. In other words, they shouldn't pay for
waste.
Waste is anything that doesn't add value to the end product. In lean
manufacturing, there are eight categories of waste that should be monitor:
 Overproduction – Is the production more than consumers demand?
 Waiting – How much lag time is there between production steps?
 Inventory (work in progress)– Are the supply levels and work in
progress inventories too high?
 Transportation – Are the materials moved efficiently?
 Over-processing – Do the organisation work on the product too many
times, or otherwise work inefficiently?
 Motion – Do people and equipment move between tasks efficiently?
 Defects – How much time is spent finding and fixing production
mistakes?
 Workforce – Are the workers’ skill efficiently utilised?
Lean manufacturing gives priority to simple, small, and continuous improvement
such as changing the placement of a tool, or putting two workstations closer
together. As these small improvements are added together, they can lead to a
higher level of efficiency throughout the whole system. (Note that this emphasis
on small improvements doesn't mean that larger improvements cannot be made if
they are required!)

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2.1.3 Lean Manufacturing Process
The Lean Manufacturing Process has three main stages:
Stage 1: Identify waste
According to the lean manufacturing philosophy, waste always exists, and no
matter how good the process is right now, it can always be better. Lean
manufacturing relies on this fundamental philosophy of continuous
improvement, known as Kaizen.
One of the key tools used to find this waste is a Value Stream Map (VSM).
This shows how materials and processes flow through the organization to bring
the product or service to the consumer. It looks at how actions and departments
are connected, and it highlights the waste. As the VSM is analyzed, the
processes that add value and those that don't can be seen. Then a "future state"
VSM is created that includes as few non-value-adding activities as possible.
Stage 2: Analyze the waste and finding the root cause
For each waste identified in the first stage, figure out what's causing it by using
Root Cause Analysis. If a machine is constantly breaking down, one might
think the problem is mechanical and decide to purchase a new machine. But
Root Cause Analysis could showthat the real problem is poorly trained
operators who don't use the machine properly. Other effective tools for finding
a root cause include Brainstorming and Cause and Effect Diagrams.
Stage 3: Solve the root cause and repeat the cycle
Using an appropriate problem-solving process, decide what must be done to fix
the issue to create more efficiency.

2.1.4 Tools to Reduce Waste

Once wastes have been identified using the three key stages above, the following
set of tools can be made use of to help reduce waste further:
1. Just in Time – This is the core idea of lean manufacturing and is based on the
"pull" model. To minimize stock and resources, one only purchases materials,
and produces and distributes products when required. One also produces
small, continuous batches of products to help production run smoothly and
efficiently. By reducing batch size, one can also monitor quality and correct
any defects as they go. This reduces the likelihood of quality being poor in
future batches.
2. Kanban – This is one of the key ways to involve people in the lean
manufacturing process. Here, one supports the Just In Time model by
developing cues in the system to signal that there is a need to replace, order, or
locate something. The focus is on reducing overproduction, so that one has
what they need, only when they need it.
3. Zero Defects – This system focuses on getting the product right the first time,
rather than spending extra time and money fixing poor-quality products. By
using the Zero Defects system, one will reinforce the notion that no defect is
acceptable, and encourage people to do things right the first time that they do
something.

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 4. Single Minute Exchange of Die (SMED) – This helps an organization build
flexibility into their production. For example, in the automotive industry, it
could take days to change a line to produce a different car model. With
SMED, the assembly process and machinery are designed to support quick and
efficient changeovers. (Here, a "die" is a tool used to shape an object or
material.)
5. The 5S Philosophy – Lean manufacturing depends on standardization. One
wants their tools, processes, and workplace arrangements to be as simple and
as standard as possible. This creates fewer places for things to go wrong, and
reduces the inventory of replacement parts that one needs to hold. To
accomplish a good level of standardization, the 5S System is used.
Lean manufacturing focuses on optimizing the processes and eliminating waste.
This helps cut costs and deliver what the customer wants and is willing to pay for.

With a lean philosophy, one can enjoy the benefit of continuous improvement. So,
rather than making rapid, irregular changes that are disruptive to the workplace,
one makes small and sustainable changes that the people who actually work with
the processes, equipment, and materials will take forward.

This systematic and simple approach is very effective across all types of
industries. What's more, ultimately, a process without waste is much more
sustainable.

2.2 Single minute Exchange of Die:

2.2.1 Introduction
It’s not just about setting up dies. Dies were the first improvement target and the
reason SMED came to be, but the thinking carries over into many other areas.
SMED has to do with every kind of changeover setup, from high volume, low
mix (HVLM) to mass production to the job shop’s high mix, low volume
(HMLV) manufacturing process. It can be used in tool and die making where
each tool, die or fixture is different. Dr. Shigeo Shingo’s book, A Revolution in
Manufacturing: The SMED System, is a key reference for SMED activities, and a
sort of cookbook for implementing such a system in a plant.
Currently most manufacturers who haven’t implemented SMED still use EOQ
(economic order quantity) to determine production-run batch sizes. For many
years, it was believed that optimum inventory levels should be calculated by
spreading the setup for changeover across as large a batch as possible, within the
production requirements of the plant. This is why inventory levels grew and
grew. New, larger storage areas and warehouses became the rule. Industrial
engineers reasoned that they will never have product outages if they carried
enough inventory.
Shingo, often referred to as Japan’s Edison, developed the SMED system in 1959
while working as a consultant for Toyo Industries. Taiichi Ohno, vice president

80
 of manufacturing, assigned him the task of matching a German company’s die-
changeover speed of an astounding two hours for an entire tandem press line. The
company’s previous time had been 10 hours or more.
To meet the challenge, Shingo first targeted the Germans’ two-hour mark, then
realized that by the time he achieved that goal, the Germans would be even
faster. He decided to set his own goal of less than 10 minutes, leapfrogging the
competition. The “single minute” part of SMED refers to a single-digit time limit
-- nine minutes or less, not a single, 60-second minute (although small dies are
regularly changed in less time that that).
Shingo and his team discovered that if setup time was greatly reduced, batch
sizes could shrink proportionately. Today, inventory is the enemy of production
efficiency and effectiveness. More than 50 years ago, Shingo realized that
inventory costs more than originally thought. Materials “on the shelf” have to be
bought and paid for much sooner, and so does the labor used to make and store
finished and work-in-process goods. The cost of floor space and new warehouses
is considerable, as is the cost of ensuring those facilities and the products they
contain.

2.2.2 Changeover Concepts

A ‘changeover’ is the complete process of change that takes place between the
manufacturing of one style to the manufacturing of an alternative style to the
point of meeting specified production and quality parameters.
The total time elapsed in changeover consists of three phases:
 The Run-Down Phase
 The Set-Up Phase
 The Run-Up Phase
Run-down phase: This phase is the interval when production of old style is
complete but set-up for new style cannot be started as some of the pieces of old
product are still in line for alterations or waiting for some parts or trims, for
example a damaged placket, a missing collar, etc. In this phase feeding is ceased
and production of old style is finished on most of the work stations. Run down
typically stretches till all the pieces of old style are out from the line.

Set-up phase: It is the phase in which no manufacturing occurs. In this phase,

machines and equipments are adjusted as per the requirements of new style. In
this phase there is no output from the line.

Run-up phase: This phase starts when production for the new style is
commenced and continues until consistent output at full capacity occurs. Run-up
period extends till each operation (including new operations) reaches the
specified production and quality rates consistently.

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2.2.3 Goals of SMED
Following are the goals of implementing SMED in a factory:
1. Reduce inventory
2. Reduce batch sizes
3. Reduce changeover time
4. Reduce impact on equipment utilization
5. Improve quality after changeover
6. Improve repeatability
7. Improve throughput
8. Improve flexibility

2.2.4 Benefits of SMED

The aim of SMED is to reduce the setup time to enable smaller batches to be run
enabling Just In Time Manufacturing (JIT) and Kanban. The benefits of this are
many folds:
1. Reduction in the amount of cash tied up in stock
2. Reduction in the amount of handling and handling equipment required
3. Reduced floor space required for stock
4. Reduced lead times through the company
5. Increase in flexibility to produce a variety of products
6. Increase in Capacity
7. Improvement in our quality
8. Reduced scrap levels
9. Reduction in the level of operator skills required
10. Reduced costs and improved profits

2.2.5 Internal & External Activities in Changeover Process

Close analysis of changeover process reveals that the process comprises of two
sets of activities, namely the internal activities and the external activities.
The internal activities are performed when the sewing machines in the line are
stopped, and no product is being manufactured in the line. These are activities
performed for sewing machines that are already in line, example gauge set, SPI
change, folder adjustment or any other similar operation, as per the requirement
of new style. The time taken to complete all the internal activities constitutes the
set-up phase.
The external activities are performed outside the line without disturbing the
production inline. For example, pre-setting of a sewing machine for new style or
early loading of cut parts without disturbing the production of running style.
While the internal activities need to be carried out in the set-up phase when the
machine is stopped, the external activities can be carried out during run-down
phase and/or during the run-up phase.

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2.2.6 Implementing Single Minute Exchange of Die
Quick changeover is not an isolated process, where specially trained work force
carries out the changeover activities. It requires focus on Organizational
improvement and design improvement. Following are the six techniques that
should be considered while implementing SMED:
 Segregate or set apart the internal from external setup operations (tasks)
 Convert internal to external set-up tasks
 Standardize functions
 Adopt parallel operations
 Improve design of machine equipment
 Use functional clamps or eliminate fasteners and adjustments.
It is quite evident that limited scope of design improvement makes SMED
implementation in apparel industry to rely mainly on organizationalimprovement.

Need for Organizational Improvement:

Since developing quick style changeover capability needs cultural change,

initiating organizational changes becomes essential. And since the organizational
changes are basically people and procedure based, it mainly deals with
manpower allocation/reallocation and task modification but not with equipment
or product, which is dealt in design improvement. Organizational improvement is
highly dependent on training and motivation. Following are few examples for
initiating organizational improvement in apparel industry:

Identifying Internal And External Activities: Machine plan should be prepared by

comparing operation bulletin of old and new style. Machine plan should identify
following parameters:

 Operation type
 Machine type (segregated as internal/ external)
 Machine number
 Stitches per inch (SPI)
 Required Settings

Operations of old style and new style should be compared for segregation of
internal and external elements. If operation for new style is already being
performed in old style then the element is internal, thus the machine type should
be filled as internal element. But if a machine has to be arranged from outside or
a machine from the old style will become idle but can be utilized at some other
operation in the new style, then that should also be filled as external element.
Along with machine type attachment details should also be filled by referring to
operation bulletin.

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 1. Convert Internal Task to External: Since reallocating task by
converting internal activities to external activities significantly reduces
set-up time, opportunities for such conversions should be identified.
Example, loading of parts before the end of old style or template
preparation in advance.
2. Investigate the use of Automates/Work Stations: Like continuous
bottom hemming machine for knits Tee/Polo shirts (internal to external
elements) or the use of fusing machine in cutting section rather than in
sewing line.
3. External Machine Setting: External machines should be set-up by the
mechanic according to the machine plan in advance (in run-down phase).
Typically machine setting should include machine parameters like gauge
change, folder/presser foot change, needle change/ removal, SPI
adjustment, programming, etc. as per the requirement of new style.
Machine setting should be approved for quality by the quality supervisor
and machine marked with ‘Setting OK’ tag.
4. Adopt Parallel Operations: Set-up parallel operations example, set-up
of operations in different sections simultaneously (front and back
sections). Note that the tasks must not be dependent upon each other.
Usually, the creation of parallel tasks requires more manpower, so
increased personnel must be considered.
5. Eliminate Waiting Time: Concentrate on efforts to eliminate waiting
time during changeover process. A simple reallocation or reorganization
of group tasks may help reduce this waiting time. For example,
performing bottom hem operation before waistband attach in a denim for
starting few bundles, as setup of waistband operation consumes more
time.
6. Training and Development: Traditional changeover procedure can be
modified by broadening the scope of a technician’s abilities through
training programs. This will allow a technician to perform tasks that he
or she was not previously allowed to do, and thus remove dependency on
another technician for completion of a task.
7. Minimize Trials and Controls: Trials and controls can be minimized
by formalizing procedures and utilizing standards. Checklists can be
used, and technicians can be held accountable for key procedures by
signing off on the checklists.
8. Standardize Functions: Formalize standardized operation instructions
for changeover process. Examples develop standard operating
procedures defining responsibility and accountability.

Design Improvement:

Following are few examples for design improvement in Apparel Industry:

1. Improving design of manufacturing, machine and

equipment:Investigate use of clamps instead of fasteners wherever

84
 feasible, for example use magnetic edge guides in place of screw
fastener type.
2. Improve design of manufactured products: Exercise the scope of
changes in product construction parameters in consultation with buyer to
facilitate reduction in set-up time. For example, margin for strip
matching at sleeve joint for yard dyed knits, increasing/ decreasing SPI
by a unit as the specified SPI cannot be produced on some machines or
to increase the width of J-Stitch so that it can be easily performed on J-
Stitch machine. However, since such changes require buyers’ consent,
which often is a time-consuming process, they have limited application.It
is observed that in comparison to design improvement, organizational
improvement is cheaper, easy to implement, and produces significant
reductions in changeover time.

Administer functional control:

While implementing SMED, it should be guarded that the saving in changeover

time is not negated by poor functional controls like, non-availability or shortage
of fabric/trims after commencing production, non-adherence to PPM schedules,
poor style clarity among production supervisors and many more such small
irritants but with a major implication.

3. METHODOLOGY:
3.1 Defining Methodology:
The project is being carried out in five phases:
1. Define
2. Measure
3. Analyze
4. Implement
5. Control
1. Define: This phase is all about defining the objectives, the scope, the areas to
be worked on and the goals of the project. Familiarization with the factory’s
ways of working is also a part of this phase.
2. Measure: The main objective of this phase is to measure the following:
o Changeover time
o Breakup of the changeover time with causes
To achieve this, some new formats, matrices and reports in the form of graphs
and paretos were developed along with several reports already being prepared.
The usefulness of this step is that a record of the style changeovers is being
maintained which will later help in monitoring the progress and also in
identifying the areas of concern. And, since the charts and paretos would be
displayed for each line and each section separately, this would also provide

85
 visibility to the problems being faced in the factory, which would in turn
create more ideas for improvements in the form of kaizens.
3. Analyze: This phase is about making deductions from the earlier phase about
areas of concern and future plan of action. For this, the use of charts and
graphs and discussions with concerned people is to be done.
The activities carried out in this step are as follows:
1. Video Analysis
2. SOS Preparation
3. Conversion of internal activities to external
4. SOS preparation
5. Style Preparation
6. Streamlining Pre-Production activities
This step is the most critical step of the project, since a wrong analysis would
cause all the earlier steps to go wrong and a lot of time and energy would be
wasted. Its usefulness lies in the fact that the critical area identification
depends solely on this step where each and every cause is analyzed and
decision taken as to which problem to eliminate first, and how, and why? And
if improvements are noticed, then what is the measurement of the
improvement.
4. Implement: In this phase, problem areas defined earlier are to be focused on
and plan action determined earlier is to be carried out with proper inputs from
concerned people.
Steps to be carried out in this phase are as follows:
o New Method testing
o Revision
o Operator training
o Trial runs
5. Control: This phase is about improving and standardizing and making the
improved processes an integral part of the changeover process and ensuring
that the process is maintained properly. It is all about putting proper checks in
places to ensure that everyone in the organization follows the practices.

3.2 Data Collection:

3.2.1 Primary Data:
Primary data is collected using the following methods:
1. Observation and study on the production floor
2. Interviews with concerned people
3. Reports generated in the company
3.2.2 Secondary Data:
Secondary data has been derived from the following sources:
1. Websites
2. Journals
3. Periodicals
4. Books

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4. DATA ANALYSIS:
4.1 Understanding the concept of changeover
Data regarding changeover time, techniques developed by Shigeo Shingo to carry
out changeover was gathered from different research papers to understand the
concept of changeover. Case studies related to SMED implementation in different
companies were also analyzed to get a rough idea of various problems faced
during changeover and to relate them to the company in study.
4.2 Define
A major problem faced by Laguna Clothing during style changeover is the start-up
loss which is a major loss for the lines affecting planning and meeting deadlines.
So, the project focus will be on analyzing and reducing this start-up loss.
4.3 Measure
In this phase, few style changeovers were studied and time study done using Style
Changeover Analysis Sheet for these styles for measuring the current style
changeover time in the lines.

87
 Style change 1

CHANGE OVER ANALYSIS OF RALPH

LAUREN TO CHARLES TYRWHITT
Operator
waiting time
13%

Rework of
previous style
Run up period
37%
41%

Machine layout
planning
1%
Inline Machine setting
inspection of 6%
garment Technical issue
Thread change
1% 1%
0%

Figure: 4.3.1 Changeover analysis from Ralph Lauren to Charles Tyrwhitt

88
 Total
Activity Time ( in minutes)
time (in
minutes)
Layout Planning 63
Planning time M/c Planning 306 854
Style analysis 58
machine cleaning 15
work aids 10
Machine setting time machine setting on actual 95
10
fabric
machine movement 60
Pilot demonstration 0
Operator
operator change, re-
demonstration and idle 05 605
demonstration
time
Idle time 600
Marking
0
Pattern and Quality
Template making 0 400
issue
Quality standards 180
cutting accuracy 0
Cutting and fusing time 45
fusing, folding & pairing 45
1999 minutes
Total
33.31 hours
Table 4.3.1: Time for calculating changeover

89
 Style change 2:

CHANGEOVER ANALYSIS FOR BRFS TO RAL

Operator
Thread insertion waiting time
0% 8%
M/c cleaning
3%

M/c checking
22% Batch setting
40%

Inline inspection M/c layout

of garment planning
19% 8%

Figure 4.3.2: Changeover analysis from BRFS to RAL

90
 Time (in Total
Activity
minutes) time (in
minutes)
Layout Planning 10
Planning time M/c Planning 8
324
Style analysis 306
machine (un)availability 367
Machine setting work aids 15 579
time machine setting on actual fabric 546
machine movement 18
Operator waiting time 135
Operator
operator change, re-
demonstrationand 90 250
demonstration
idletime
Idle time 25
Marking
0
Pattern and Quality
issue Template making 21 33
Quality standards 12
Cutting and fusing cutting accuracy 48
time fusing, folding & pairing 22 70
1256
Total minutes
21 hours
Table 4.3.2: Time for calculating changeover

Problems Identified: The style changeover observed in the company were of the
repetitive style. Few are the problems which were encounter during the style
changeover:

1. Operation bulletin non sequential

2. Communication gap
3. No prior information of batch setting
4. No prior knowledge of garment
5. Quality problem
6. Operator problem
7. Loading problem
1. Operation bulletin non sequential: The OB prepared was not according to
the actual machine layout, supervisors were just setting the machines according
to the production capacity as they were placing the extra machines to the
operations which are critical for P.O. number #1507 of brand Charles Tyrwhitt
two waist band attachment machines and two bottom tape attachment machines

91
were placed, and for; P.O. number #2106 of brand Raymond Apparel Limited
two waist band attachment machines were used.
2. Communication gap: It has often been seen in a factory that there is a lack of
proper communication among the various departments. This seriously affects the
production activities of the factory, especially so at the start and end of the
production activities, for if proper communication is not passed on to the right
person at the right time, he cannot make arrangements to make sure that the exact
requirements are met at theright time. For example, if the IE department does not
pass on the information on to the maintenance department about the batch
setting, the maintenance department cannot be expected to be prepared
beforehand with the required attachments and work aids and the required
personnel.
3. Quality problem: There are several quality related problems during a style
changeover like:
1. Rework at the start of the batch setting: Rework at the start of batch
setting is a very commonly faced problem during style changeover. The
reason for this can be many: machine was not setup properly or the operator
is not skilled enough or the quality requirements were not fully
communicated to the concerned people on time. This creates a lot of problem
at the start of the style changeover, increasing the run up period to a
maximum and also raising quality concerns for the order if the order quantity
is too less.
2. Clearing of alteration pieces at the end of the current style: This is
another major quality problem faced during a style changeover. The alteration
pieces for the previous style are not cleared on time and are left pending to be
done at last. This increases the run-down period two-fold as the alteration
pieces need to be first brought back to the original state and then altered. Also,
this means that the machine setting for the new style cannot be done until the
alteration bundles are cleared, again resulting in a high changeover time for
the factory.
4. Operator problem: Often it is seen that an operator allocated at an operation
is not properly skilled in that operation. Inline training is then given to the
operator to increase their efficiency. During this time several issues of quality
related problems also might come up which would need attending to. This
would result in a higher changeover time. Even absenteeism is a major
problem related to the operators which if occurring in sufficiently large
numbers can cause serious damage to the factory’s production for the day.
Sometimes, the operator attitudes also have a negative impact on the
production activities for a factory. The attitude can be of any of the following
types:
1. This operation is not my job. I will not do it.
2. I will do this job only if I am allowed to do the operation on only this
machine.
3. I will not learn a new operation. I am comfortable doing this operation.
4. I don’t care what happens, I will do only this operation. Even if I know
some more operations, what is the use of telling them.

92
 Sometimes, some personal problems also seriously hamper a good operator’s
working, and if this happens to be on a day of a style changeover, it is bound to
create problems for everybody. Sometimes it is also seen that the required number
of maintenance personnel are not available at the required place at the right time.
This is also an area of concern for the factory if this keeps happening at regular
intervals.

1. Loading problem:Quite often delayed loading of cut parts and/or trims in the
line increase the changeover time because, quite simply, the operator does no
productive work for the time he/she has no feeding. This situation is not good for
any factory. The reasons for delayed loading could be several: like cut parts not
ready on time, trims not inhouse on time, absenteeism of feeding helper, rigid
mentality that the loading should be taken only after the last pieces of the
previous style are clear, etc. Sometimes, it also happens that the trims loaded are
wrong or insufficient quantities are issued. Another concern sometimes occurring
is that the pattern for the cut parts received are wrong, either due to the mistake
of the cutting department or the pattern making department. Even imbalance in
the parts section leading to an improper matching for assembly section increases
the run-up period for an incoming style.
2. Batch setting: Batch setting involves necessary activities to prepare a line for
an incoming style. It includes activities such as Machinery Planning, Capacity
Planning, Operator Allocation, Line Balancing and Skill Development for new
styles. For new styles this causes major problems, especially for styles having
some new operations. The reason is that sufficient attention is not paid to the
batch setting task in terms of skill development and skill mapping. As a result,
the new operation often becomes a bottleneck right from the start, increasing the
startup time for the line. Also, when sufficient numbers of required machines are
not available to be shifted into the lines, batch setting becomes a problem and
attaining the peak production often needs more time than is anticipated.

4.4 Analyze: In this section detailed analysis of changeover of each style was done,
by differentiating the internal and the external activities, and making a note of
which activities can be done externally. Examples of the style changeovers
mentioned earlier are given below:

4.4.1 Style change 1 Ralph Lauren to Charles Tyrwhitt:

Firstly, the activities leading to the style change were observed and based on their
nature classified as below:

93
 Table 4.4.1.1: Separating internal and external element
S.no. Activity Scenario before Actual scenario
implementation
1 Machine plan Internal External

2 Layout plan Internal External

3 Cut parts check Internal External

4 Style analysis Internal (done by External

supervisor)
9925 Requisites Internal External
planning
6 Requisites status Internal External
check
7 Machine setting Internal External/Internal

8 Operator Internal External

allocation
9 Quality Internal External
requirements
communications

Table 4.4.1.2: Table showing operation needed to separated internal and external

Operation Internal External

Loop sew Yes

Fuse w/b Yes
w/b folding Yes
Right fly o/l Yes
Attach zip to left fly Yes
Cut & gape zip Yes
Right fly attach on left fly Yes
Back pocket facing Yes
Brand and size label at
back pocket Yes
Front pocket facing Yes
Front pocket close Yes
Waist band extension Yes
Waist band extension and
lining Yes
Pocket iron Yes
Back and front panel Yes
fusing Yes

94
Knee lining (Front ss o/l) Yes
Front o/l (inseam and Yes
rise) Yes
o/l Back
o/l Yes
Pairing
Yes
Front pocket attach Yes
Yes
Front pocket point (left) Yes
Front pocket point (right) Yes
Front pocket lock Yes
Fly attach Yes
Back dart
Back dart pressing and Yes
fusing
Back pocket welting Yes
Yes
Back pocket corner lock
Yes
(v-tongue)
Yes
Back pocket ironing
Yes
Back pocket keyhole
Back pocket lock
Yes
Back pocket top lock
Yes
Back pocket top stitch
Yes
(edge stitch)
Side seam join
Yes
Side seam iron (press
open)
Attach front pocket with Yes
side seam (o/l side) Yes
Bar tack (Back pocket & Yes
front pocket inside) Yes
Bottom tape attach Yes
Bottom tape lock Yes
Inseam join Yes
Inseam press open
Stay stitch Yes
Belt loop marking and Yes
attach
Tape attach at J- Fly and Yes
marking for waist band
Waist band attach (2) Yes
Waist band extension Yes
lock and turn

95
Hook and bar attach
Yes
Right fly facing lining
Ironing (fly facing lining Yes
and Waistband) Yes
Fly facing top stitch right Yes
fly extension closing Yes
Slider
Yes
Front rise and crotch
Yes
J-fly topstitch
Yes
Marking and attaching Yes
brand and care label Yes
Back rise
Fusing waist band Yes
Inline checking Yes
Yes
Run tack
Bar tack (loop bottom) Yes
Crotch lining
Curtain felling on waist Yes
band
Waist band extension key Yes
hole Yes
Button attach (back Yes
pocket, waistband, care
label) Yes
Loop finishing
Yes
Bottom overlock
Yes
Pin tack at waistband &
Crotch
Yes
Bottom hem
Trimming
Yes
Loop cutting and button Yes
wrapping
Yes

96
 4.4.2 Style change 2 BRFS to RAL:

Firstly, the activities leading to the style change were observed and based on
their nature classified as below:

Table 4.4.2.1: Separating internal and external element

S.no. Activity Scenario before Actual scenario

implementation
1 Machine plan Internal External

2 Layout plan Internal External

3 Cut parts check Internal External

4 Style analysis Internal (done by External

supervisor)
5 Requisites Internal External
planning
6 Requisites status Internal External
check
7 Machine setting Internal External/Internal

8 Operator Internal External

allocation
9 Quality Internal External
requirements
communications

Table 4.4.2.2: Table showing operation needed to separated internal and external

Operation Internal External

Loop sew Yes

Fuse w/b Yes
w/b folding Yes
Right fly o/l and binding Yes
Attch zip to left fly Yes
Back pocket o/l Yes
Back pocket facing attach Yes
Brand & care label attach Yes
Front pocket facing attach Yes
coin pocket attach to front pocket Yes
Front pocket o/l Yes
Front pocket bag pointed Yes
w/b extension Yes
w/b lining attach Yes

97
Pocket & front fusing iron Yes
Front & back
Back o/l
Knee lining o/l (front lining
attaching)
Front o/l (lining finishing) Yes
Loading & pairing Yes
Front pocket attach Yes
Front pocket pointed Yes
Front pocket lock Yes
Front pocket top stitch & pocket Yes
kinari Yes
Side pocket & front rise o/l Yes
fly attach Yes
sew back darts and size label Yes
Press and fuse back dart Yes
Back pocket welting Yes
Back pocket corner lock Yes
press back pocket Yes
Back pocket keyhole Yes
Back pocket toplock Yes
Back pocket button attach Yes
Back pocket bartack Yes
Back pocket restitch
Back pocket restitch Yes
Assembly-1 Yes
Sideseam Yes
Inseam Yes
ss stay stitch Yes
ss and is iron Yes
loop attach & marking Yes
tape at crotch lining Yes
WB marking and attach Yes
WB marking and attach Yes
WB extension Yes
Hook & bar Yes
Right fly lining attach Yes
Right & left fly iron Yes
Right fly edge stitch Yes
Slider Yes
Front rise Yes
J- stitch Yes
Back rise Yes

Back rise iron and WB iron Yes

98
 Assembly-2 Yes
Loop down bartack Yes
Front pocket bartack Yes
Keyhole at wb & right fly Yes
Button attach @ WB & left fly Yes
WB hemming Yes
Loop finishing Yes
Crotch lining attach Yes
Crotch l ining press Yes
Bottom o/l Yes
Bottom hemming Yes
Pin tack Yes
Trimming Yes
Wrapping & knotting

5. IMPLEMENT/REDUCE:
Step 1: Video analysis of different changeover operations
Purpose: The main objective behind doing the video analysis of the changeover
operations was threefold:
1. To find out and eliminate Non-Value-Added Activities (NVAA) or
Muda
2. To create Standard Operating Sequences (SOS) for repetitive standard
activities
3. To set a Standard Target Time in which to complete the desired activities

Justification: This step was necessary for a variety of reasons, like:

1. A video analysis of several mechanical operations carried out during
style change is necessary to identify waste and non-value added
activities being performed during the style change. And once these have
been identified, measure the time lost in such activities and eliminate
them, or reduce their effects to the minimum, if elimination is not
possible.
2. Video analysis of changeover activities help arrive at some of the best
practices and techniques that could be achieved for these activities. This
would help in making a process simpler and more standardized. This in
turn would effectively help make the process of style changeover
become more process dependent than person dependent, increasing
operational flexibility.
3. Also, video analysis could be used for training of the people involved in
the activities studied, bringing higher awareness and some degree of
uniformity throughout the organization.
4. Creation of a SOS would lead to setting of time limit within which the
activity has to be completed. This would very much help gauge operator
skill level and also reduce a lot off standard time that is otherwise being
lost in doing useless things.

99
 Number of observations: 7

How it was done: The process of video analysis for various style changeover
activities by following these steps:

1. Videos of the changeover process were taken

2. Each activity, like die change, machine setting, etc., were separated
3. These videos were then studied using the principles of time motion study
4. Waste and NVAAs were then identified
5. Remaining activities were then classified into internal and external
activities
6. Based on these calculations, the time taken for each activity was found
out at least five times each
7. If the method of working showed a regular pattern, which could easily be
standardized, it was standardized with average timings from the various
readings taken and a target was set

Figure 5.1: Changeover analysis template

Step 2: Development of formats for changeover time study

Purpose: The purpose of this step was to develop and standardize a set of matrices,
checklists, display charts and cards for ease in monitoring the process of style
changeover and maintaining the records. These charts, matrices and formats would
also help in standardizing the processes and ensuring that the methods are followed
diligently.
Justification: The process of style changeover needs to be constantly mapped and
timed to evaluate the level of maturity achieved by the company in terms of style
changeover. It also helps the company keep track of the various changeovers
happening in the production lines. To do so, some standard formats, charts and
matrices are needed for ease in measuring the deliverables. The nature of these

100
charts, matrices, etc. should be such that it can be understood and used by anybody
and everybody, and filling them up should not take too much of time.
Outcome: The outcome was the development of the following:
1. A matric for calculation of changeover time
2. A checklist to be filled before style changeover
3. An End of Line (EOL) chart for style changeover
4. A checklist for documenting machine setup and layout change time
Benefits: The company’s goal of measuring and maintaining a visual display of
changeover time for one week along with its paretos was achieved by developing a
standard matrix for automatic calculation of run up and run-down period of each
style changeover. This meant that the measurement of run up and run-down period
was very much systematic and error free, giving much reliable results than doing the
same work manually. And a visual display for this in the form of end of line (EoL)
charts has been prepared which also updates automatically based on the inputs
provided by the user. Some other formats were also developed, like, a format for
monitoring the machine availability, machine setting, raw material availability, etc.
was developed for use during a style changeover. These would help monitor the
plant’s performance levels after each style changeover and take necessary actions
wherever necessary.

Figure 5.2: Machine setup time monitor format

101
Figure 5.3: Layout change time monitor format

102
Figure 5.4: Checklist for style changeover

103
Figure 5.5: Checklist for style changeover for sewing process

Figure 5.6: Checklist for Delays during changeover

104
Step 3: Formation of style changeover team
Purpose: A changeover team was required in the factory for making sure that the
planning done by the planning department is followed as closely as possible

Justification:The planning department makes a production plan keeping in mind

the capacity of the plant. But if the plant loses production due to frequent style
changes, all the planning goes to waste and requires extra planning again and again.
But if there is a dedicated team who will cater to the needs of the factory of keeping
track of the upcoming changes and preparing the factory for these changes, this loss
can be minimized, even if not eliminated.

Outcome: A changeover team comprising people from IE, training, maintenance,

production and quality departments was formed. The team members included IE
executives, the QCs of respective lines, maintenance supervisors and trainers. This
team is headed by the Factory Manager. The main task of this team is to make sure
that every style changeover in the factory happens only after their scrutiny. These
people make sure that all the prerequisites to the new style being loaded have been
completed and all the necessary resources are in place. In case the style is seen to be
lacking in something, it can be stopped from being loaded in the lines after
consultation with the factory manager.

Step4: Style Preparation for the factory

Purpose: The purpose of this step was to prepare the factory for upcoming styles in
terms of Quality requirements, IE requirements and maintenance requirements.

Justification: The factory is provided inputs from the merchandising team about the
various orders coming its way for production in its lines. But without proper inputs
from them and the various other departments, who are subsequently dependant on
merchandising team for information, the changeover process becomes a major area
for concern with problems occurring everywhere. For example, the IE and the
Training department are often unaware of the bottleneck operations in a particular
style. So no planning is done ahead of its loading in the lines for optimal production.
And as soon as the pieces reach the critical operation, problems start creeping up,
increasing the changeover time considerably. Another example. A new style is
loaded in the lines, but the trims are not yet in house. Since no one has been
following it up, no one knows that the required trims are not yet available until the
pieces reach the operation where the trim has to be used. The pieces can now no
longer move for want of trims. The purpose of this step is to stop such types of
occurrences from happening in the factory.

Outcome: A very novel approach has been adopted in the factory for this purpose.
The IE team is informed beforehand about the upcoming styles for the next two
months. The team starts taking follow-ups on these styles from all the required
departments. They check when the patterns are in house, what are the major

105
 bottlenecks in the style based on the samples given to them, they conduct meetings
with merchandisers, maintenance, production and quality people at least two weeks
before the style is being loaded in the lines for discussions on the styles, its critical
areas, counter measures on how to get maximum productivity, get the OBs,
technical sheets, and every other follow up and actions found necessary to make
sure that the style does not become a headache after it has been loaded in the lines.
This team checks for the folder availability, machinery requirements, and analyses
each style and keeps the information in a format known as the Single Sheet
Information System. With the help of this sheet they are able to tell which style
requires what and whether the factory is ready to load the particular style in the line
at any point of time.

Benefits: The benefits of this step are enormous. Although it required a lot of
changes in the organizational level and in the mindsets of the people, this step was
very much successful in solving major critical problems for the factory. The benefits
are manifold:
1. The factory is well prepared to take on any style that comes its way with
people well aware of its requirements beforehand
2. The problem of untrained operators handling new and critical operations
leading to bottlenecks has been minimized
3. The availability of machines, attachments and trims are checked beforehand so
that availability of resources is not an issue any longer
4. Style wise analysis done beforehand gives the factory people a fair idea of
what to expect and where all they need to have checkpoints to ensure that
everythingmoves smoothly, so they are prepared for it every time a new style
is loaded in the lines
5. Each department of the factory is informed and made ready for the different
styles coming their way which increases participation, innovation and
information circulation among the different departments, which makes sure
that almost every aspect of the style has been discussed and appropriately
reviewed for problems and it has been troubleshot

Step 5: Simplification for tool design technique

Purpose: The purpose of this step is to simplify the tools used for change in
machine settings and for attachment fixing to reduce machine setup time during a
style changeover

Justification: The process of machine setup is an area which is hardly looked at in

the garment industry. It is considered that there is no scope for improvement in this
field. But that is not the case. For example, pressure foot change is never
considered for simplification. But, the process can be simplified and made to be
process driven rather than maintenance people driven. For most of the time, even
pressure foot change is done by the maintenance people, and in case they are not

106
 free, time is lost waiting for the machine to set up. But if a simple tool was to made
which could make sure that there are no screws to opened and closed, and the
pressure foot can be changed with a single touch, this waiting time could be
eliminated, giving maintenance people more freedom to work and reduce machine
setup time, even further.

Outcome: The outcome of this step was the purchase of a simple device from an
oversee vendor for quick pressure foot change in the machines. The tool is a simple
device allowing operators to change the pressure foot at just a touch of their
fingers.

Benefits: The major benefit of this tool is that it eliminates the need to wait for the
maintenance people to come and fix the pressure foot. This ensures that manpower
is always available at more pressing operations where maintenance personnel are
required to the needful. Also, time saving is done, for a normal pressure foot
change sometimes can take two minutes or more. But this tool gets the same work
done in a matter of seconds.

Step 6: Application development for consolidation of data and line preparation

Purpose: The purpose of this application is to have a central database for all the
attachments in the form of folders, guides and gauges and style details in terms of
attachments requirementof upcoming styles, for proper communication between
the IE and the Maintenance departments.

Justification: The need for such an application was felt because of the following
reasons:

1. The maintenance team had no proper record of their assets with which anyone
could identify the different attachments and check their availability prior to a
style being loaded in the line
2. Proper communication flow for the requirements of maintenance team could
not be seen in the factory due to a lack of proper asset database. This
application would bridge the gap by having a central database accessible by
IED and the maintenance team simultaneously
3. It was sometimes seen that when a style was loaded in the lines, its
attachments would be unavailable or there would be a shortage, for it was in
use in some other line and could not be used for the production of the given
style. This application would check the availability of the folders, guides and
gauges for different combinations of styles that could be loaded in the lines at
any given point of time
Outcome: An application was prepared on VB.NET with a central database on the
company’s local server. It is easily accessible by all through a front end that can be
installed on any computer. It displays and stores information related to the number
and kinds of attachments, different buyers, different styles and their folder
requirements. It is very user friendly and can be used by anyone in the company

107
Benefits: The application has brought about the following changes in the process
of style changeover:

1. The communication gap between the IED and the Maintenance departments
has effectively been bridged, even if there is no direct interaction between
them
2. The maintenance department now has a record of each and every attachment
in its possession and is now answerable for any discrepancies
3. The IED has also been made accountable for the number of attachments and
machinery details that would be required for given style
4. Unavailability of attachments would also no longer be an issue during the style
changeover, since it has already been checked for availability

Status after implementation:

The current status of the changeover process of the factory is summarised below
in the table:

S.no. Activity Scenario before Actual Current Implemented

implementation nature status through

1 Machine plan Internal External External NA

2 Layout plan Internal External External NA

3 Cut parts check Internal External External Step 4

4 Style analysis Done by IE External External Step 4,6

5 Requisites Internal External External Step 4, 6

planning

6 Requisites Internal External External Step 5

status check

7 Machine Internal External External Step 4

setting

8 Operator Internal External External Step 4, 2

allocation

9 Quality Internal/ External External NA

requirements External
communication

Table 5.1: showing the status of elements after implementation

108
 6. RESULT AND DISCUSSION:
6.1 Reduction in changeover time:

6.1.1 Style changeover reduction from TS to ERLA

STYLE CHANGEOVER REDUCTION FROM

TRADESHOW TO ERLA
Folder
guide making attachment
5% 1%
Discussion
2%

M/c layout
15%
Operator
waiting time
30%
Inline
inspection of
garment
3%

M/c
arrangement
44%

109
 Operator waiting time 02:03:00

M/C arrangement 03:02:00

Inline inspection of garment 00:10:00

M/C layout 01:02:00

Guides making 00:20:03

Folder attachment 00:04:01

Discussion 00:10:00

Total 06:51:04

Table 6.1.1: Time to carry operations

6.1.2 Style changeover reduction from CT to JCP

STYLE CHANGEOVER REDUCTION

FROM C.T. JCPENNY
M/c Layout
19%

Quality issue
3%
Line
disturbance
M/C setting 6%
52%
Thread change
1%

Operator
waiting time
19%

110
Operator waiting time 01:02:00

M/C layout 01:02:03

Quality issue 00:20:03

Disturbance 00:20:03

Thread change 00:05:03

M/C setting 02:54:26

Total 05:43:38

Table 6.1.2: Time to carry operations

6.1.3 Project impact on changeover time of factory

The changeover time of the trouser line has been majorly impacted with the help
of this project. The end results in terms of changeover time reduction are given
below:

111
 Table 6.1.3.1: Changeover time study summary before implementation

Style description Changeover time study summary

S. Buy Planned/U Li M/ Wai Thr Run Gar Other Tota

n er nplanned ne C ting ead up ment elemen l
o setti time cha time inspe ts(hrs) time
ng (Hrs nge +Run ction
tim ) (hrs down
e ) time
(hrs (hrs)
)

1 Char Planned 4 5:06 10:0 0:08 33:07: 0:06:0 4:05:23 52:34

les :02 2:00 :00 00 2 :27
Tyr
whit
t

2 JCP Planned 3 8:06 5:59: 0:08 6:05:0 0:09:0 4:02:00 24:29

:03 00 :00 0 3 :06

3 RAL Planned 2 9:02 8:51: 0:08 3:05:0 0:08:0 7:56:00 29:10

:00 00 :00 0 6 :06

4 Park Planned 2 6:02 6:02: 0:08 6:07:2 0:07:0 2:05:02 20:31

aven :00 00 :00 3 6 :31
ue

5 BRF Unplanned 1 2:03 2:00: 0:08 1:06:0 0:04:2 1:02:00 6:23:

S :00 00 :00 0 3 23

6 ERL Planned 3 6:05 5:06: 0:08 8:53:0 0:05:5 2:05:00 22:22

A :01 01 :00 0 6 :58

7 Ralp Unplanned 4 6:02 8:02: 0:08 9:23:2 0:08:5 4:02:03 27:46

h :03 00 :00 1 4 :21
laure
n

Tota 42:2 46:0 0:56 67:46: 0:49:3 25:17:28 183:1

l 6:09 2:01 :00 44 0 7:52

Ave 6:03 6:34: 0:08 9:40:5 0:07:0 3:36:47 26:11

rage :44 34 :00 8 4 :07

112
 Table 6.1.3.2: Changeover time study summary after implementation

Style description Changeover time study summary

S. Buy Planned/U Li M/ Wai Thr Run Gar Other Tot

no er nplanned ne C ting ead up ment element al
setti time cha time+ inspe s(hrs) time
ng (Hrs nge Run ction
time ) (hrs down
(hrs ) time
) (hrs)

1 Char Planned 4 2:05: 1:23: 0:06 1:23:0 0:04:0 0:00:00 5:01:

les 00 00 :00 0 0 00
Tyr
whitt

2 JCP Planned 3 3:02: 1:23: 0:02 5:23:0 0:04:2 0:00:00 9:54:

12 20 0 3 55

3 RAL Planned 2 3:20: 1:23: 0:05 4:25:0 0:12:5 0:12:00 9:38:

32 00 :00 0 6 28

4 Park Planned 2 2:30: 1:30: 0:04 2:56:0 0:10:2 1:12 8:23:

aven 00 45 :05 0 3 13
ue

5 BRF Unplanned 1 1:30: 0:45: 0:08 2:00:0 0:05:0 0:24:56 4:53:

S 00 20 :00 0 0 16

6 ERL Planned 3 2:30: 2:30: 0:05 1:23:0 0:06:0 0:32 7:07:

A 20 00 :23 0 0 04

7 Ralp Unplanned 4 1:36: 4:23: 0:09 1:54:0 0:04:0 0:28:23 8:35:

h 21 24 :00 0 0 08
laure
n

Tota 16:3 13:1 0:39 19:24: 0:46:4 2:49:40 53:3

l 4:25 8:49 :28 00 2 3:04

Ave 2:22: 1:54: 0:05 2:46:1 0:06:4 0:24:14 7:39:

rage 04 07 :38 7 0 01

113
 Table 6.1.3.3: Figures to show changes

Average before 6:03:44 6:34:34 0:08:00 9:40:58 0:07:04 3:36:47 26:11:07

implementation

Average after 2:22:04 1:54:07 0:05:38 2:46:42 0:06:40 0:24:14 7:39:01

implementation

Difference 03:41:40 04:40:27 00:02:22 06:54:16 00:00:24 03:12:33 18:32:06

Difference in 39.06 28.92 70.42 28.69 94.34 11.18 29.22

%

4:48:00

0:00:00

19:12:00

14:24:00

9:36:00

4:48:00

0:00:00
M/C setting Waititng time Thread change Run up + Run Garment Other elements Total
itme down time inspection

Average before implementation Average after implementation Difference

Figure 6.1.3: Showing the implementation success through chart

7. LIMITATIONS OF THE PROJECT:

The project carried out, like all other things, has limitations of its own. The
project although carried out successfully at present, needs to be sustained in
the long run to be of any major benefit to the organization. And that is where
the major problem comes. For sustaining a project of this magnitude, which
involves so many additional activities to be carried out and the involvement of
so many people, a lot of will power, right guidance and right approach is
needed which can be had only if the employees are motivated enough and the
management approach is supportive of the changes this project brings about.
Another limitation is the part for continuous improvement. There is always a
scope for continuous improvement, no doubt, but finding that out and making

114
 sure that the improvements are carried out is in itself a big task which too
requires that the management be supportive and the employees motivated to
do that extra mile to make continuous improvement an integral part of the
project. Also, for a factory facing style changeovers practically every day,
ensuring that the methods used are effectively and efficiently carried out all
the time, may not always be possible. It should however not discourage
employees from following these procedures devoutly. Only by making them
an integral part of the system can it be ensured that such an event does not
occur.

36. 8 . CONCLUSION
Nothing can be achieved without handwork and dedication. The duration spent
in DMAPL helped a lot in personal understanding of the industry. The
garment industry is the crucial industry and the problem statements found for
the improvement scope in industry is difficult to achieve. Due to its labor
intensive nature, the implementation results fluctuate as the success rate at last
depends on the operator’s dedication and the interest to use the new idea or
methodology to improve, as human nature is against the change in any field.

The whole 3 month was utilized to create the healthy relationship with the
work force and making them understand that anything new implemented in the
process or the material flow is for the betterment. And in order to achieve the
satisfying results theirs pilot run should be successful enough.

The operators were cooperative enough to help in the improvement of the

production line. They took the projects and implementation sincerely and gave
the contribution in achieving the results. The ideas and process used in the
taken projects may not be very innovative but it helped the operators and the
production line to gain the desirable results and face the everyday problem
happening in the production floor.

115
37.

38.

39.

40.

41.

42.

43.

44.

45.ANNEXURES

46.

47.

48.

49.

50.

51.

52.

116
53.

54.ANNEXURE 1

55.

56.
57.

58.

59.

60.

61.

117
 62.ANNEXURE 2

63.

SPREADING DEPARTMENT
Style # 2 PL1883A Fabric Width 33.5" Solid
Fabric Detail Woven lining
Fabric Woven Fibre Content polyester Nap - either way
Machine Spreading
Manual Spreading No Yes Splicing ? No
?
Spreading M/c Type - Gerber Make - German Model SY-101 TT
Fabric Package Type -
Spreading Mode - F2F Lay Length - 237.2" (5.93m) Roll
Roll/Meter fold
No.of Weights Use of papers between layers -
No.of Clamp Used - Use of pins - Yes- Bottom and Top
NA Used - NA NA Yes/No
Table Height 35" Table Width 65.25" Table Length - 240" Table top type Metal
MarkerType Paper / Fabric /
Lay No. 2 Lay Height 1" No. of Fab Layers 46 CAD
CAD / On line
Time Duration in min. 20 min 20 min 20 min 20 mins
No. of Layers 12 12 12 10
Total fabric handled* (metres) 272.78
Spreading operators 1 1 1 1
* (No. of layers x Lay length)+ End bits

Name Age Sex Education Height Rating How long working in the deptt. Salaried/Hourly wage
Gayathri 20 F Salaried

64.

65.

118
 ANNEXURE 3

CUTTING DEPARTMENT

Malbin Solid/YarnDyed/Pr
Fabric Width - 60.8" Solid
Style 2740A int
Navy Blue
Fabric Woven Fibre Content - Wool Blend Fabric Detail
Woven Fabric

No. of patterns
F2F 40 Marker way -
per garment
Marker Mode
Type of cutting
machine: Straight CAM

Bullmer Make German Model

Cutting M/c Type
YES, BLOCK
120 cm Avg.blade Life - How old? 13 years Block Cutting ? CUTTING FOR
Blade Length
Frequency of BAND KNIFE
blade sharpening Every 2.4
while cutting mins

Table Length
36" LENGTH- 5.18 Metres; WIDTH- 72"
Table Height & Width
Working
Condition (Light, GOOD
fan etc.)
Height of
Fans per
0.25 0 light from 5 metre
Sq.mt.
Lights per Sq.mt. cutting table

MarkerType
No. of Fab
4 Lay Height 0.5" 80 Paper / Fabric / CAD
Layers
CAD / On line
Lay No.
Time Duration in
30 min. 30 min. 30 min. 30 min. 30 min. 30 min.
min.
No. of Patterns
40 40 36 40 40
cut
Linear Length*
cut
No. of Notches 72 72 68 72 72
Cutting Master/s 2 2 2 2 2

How long
Age Sex Education Height Rating working in the Salaried/Hourly wage
Name deptt.
Kempa 32 Male Good salaried
Ravi 28 Male Good salaried

66.

67.

119
 68.ANNEXURE 4

69.
Element Breakdown
OPERATION : ARMHOLE LINING CLOSE
Sheet No. 1
Style PL -4030 Pulling the sleeve Pulling the sleeve
Pick up the pc & Checking & pushing Shifting to next Checking & pushing
Fabric WOOLEN to align the sleeve Stitching to align the sleeve Stitching Dispose
place it on the bed the sleeve back sleeve the sleeve back
Garment JKT lining with shell lining with shell

NOTES LINE T R T R T R T R T R T R T R T R T R
1 3.24 15.8 23.91 2.15 2.78 16.72 25.97 2.2 5.46
2 3.07 14.87 22.46 2.46 3.38 17.1 26.81 2.46 5.05
3 2.83 15.25 24.06 3.25 3.05 16.93 26.17 3.23 4.9
4 3.83 15.62 23.32 2.23 2.7 16.84 27.77 2.41 4.81
5 3.11 14.7 22.98 4.28 2.91 17.02 26.89 2.28 5.66
6 3.48 16.56 23.76 2.26 3.23 16.67 27.14 2.54 5.97
7 3.26 14.89 24.22 2.62 2.87 18.16 26.07 2.4 6.39
8 4.1 16.3 23.87 3.1 2.73 17.46 25.94 3.73 5.93
9 3.25 15.68 23.9 2.41 3.28 16.49 26.81 2.25 4.95
10 2.8 15.51 24.72 2.27 3.12 16.67 25.75 3.15 5.1
SUMMARY
TOTAL 'T' 32.97 155.18 237.2 27.03 30.05 170.06 265.32 26.65 54.22
AVG T 3.297 15.518 23.72 2.703 3.005 17.006 26.532 2.665 5.422
RATING 60% 60% 60% 60% 60% 60% 60% 60% 60%
Normal T 1.98 9.31 14.23 1.62 1.80 10.20 15.92 1.60 3.25
PF 15% 15% 15% 15% 15% 15% 15% 15% 15%
Standard T 2.27 10.71 16.37 1.87 2.07 11.73 18.31 1.84 3.74
M/c Delay* 9% 9% 9% 9% 9% 9% 9% 9% 9%
S.A.M. 2.45 11.55 17.65 2.01 2.24 12.65 19.74 1.98 4.03

70.
Element Breakdown
OPERATION : BODY BASTING
Sheet No. 2
Style PL:4030

Fabric WOOLEN BLEND Picking Aligning Stitching Picking Aligning Stitching Dispose
Garment JKT

NOTES LINE T R T R T R T R T R T R T R
1 4.25 3.75 30.57 5.14 4.78 30.5 4.5
2 4.23 3.78 30.45 5.21 4.79 29.98 4.6
3 4.29 3.89 31.56 5.13 4.56 29.87 4.1
4 4.28 3.79 31.25 5.15 4.65 29.96 4.3
5 4.65 3.88 30.21 5.23 4.78 30.01 4.5
6 4.56 3.56 30.33 5.45 4.98 31.2 4.99
7 4.45 3.98 30.42 4.98 4.67 30.32 4.87
8 4.32 4.01 30.42 5.01 4.87 30.12 4.56
9 4.29 3.89 30.12 5.24 4.95 30.21 4.85
10 4.54 3.76 30.32 5.14 4.96 30.23 4.56
SUMMARY
TOTAL 'T' 43.86 38.29 305.65 51.68 47.99 302.4 45.83
AVG T 4.386 3.829 30.565 5.168 4.799 30.24 4.583
RATING 60% 60% 60% 60% 60% 60% 60%
Normal T 2.63 2.30 18.34 3.10 2.88 18.14 2.75
PF 15% 15% 15% 15% 15% 15% 15%
Standard T 3.03 2.64 21.09 3.57 3.31 20.87 3.16
M/c Delay* 9% 9% 9% 9% 9% 9% 9%
S.A.M. 3.26 2.85 22.74 3.84 3.57 22.50 3.41

71.

120
 ANNEXURE 5

72.

73.

121
 74.ANNEXURE 6
JOB EVALUATION FOR PACKER
Com pensable Factors Weightage Total points 100%
Skill
Multi skilled w ith
experience and
job know ledge 6 10 qualif ication, mentor all qualif ication, mentor others
other, upto date
know ledge
Written and oral,technical
terminology, logical
ability to communicate 4 10 development of
arguments, clariry of communication w ith others
experssion
analysis reports by others
analytical ability 4 10
and give solution
Effort
hard physical w ork,
Physical conditions and f atigue f actor high,
w ork
7 10
hazardous or extreme
condition exposure
Hevy mental w ork,
mental requirements 6 10 monotonus,
responsibilities are criticle
Responsibility
impact on the organisation 2 10 Crucial and un-doable
Supervises senior
supervisory authority 2 10
managers
Final decisions, others
f ollow the decision,
decision making 2 10 decisions have crusial
impact, no consultaion
necessary
Individually Accountable
accountability 2 10 f or overall perf ormance of
company
know ledge
Solve problems, Gives
logical solution w ith
implementation f or entire
problem solving skills 2 10
organisation , high
qualif ication and
experience
Plans f or the entire
Planning and organising 2 10
organization (Visionary)
JOB EVALUATION FOR SEWING OPERATOR
Com pensable Factors Weightage Total points 100%
Skill
Multi skilled w ith
experience and
qualification, mentor all
other, upto date qualification, mentor others
job know ledge 10 100 know ledge
Written and oral,technical
terminology, logical
development of Both w ritten and Oral but
arguments, clariry of
ability to communicate 6 100 experssion communication w ith others
analysis reports by others
analytical ability 6 100 and give solution
Effort
hard physical w ork,
fatigue factor high,
Physical conditions and hazardous or extreme
w ork 6 100 condition exposure
Hevy mental w ork,
monotonus,
mental requirements 8 100 responsibilities are criticle
Responsibility
impact on the organisation 6 100 Crucial and un-doable
Supervises senior
supervisory authority 3 100 managers
Final decisions, others
follow the decision,
decisions have crusial
impact, no consultaion
decision making 3 100 necessary
Individually Accountable
for overall performance of
accountability 3 100 company
know ledge
Solve problems, Gives
logical solution w ith
implementation for entire
organisation , high
qualification and
problem solving skills 5 100 experience
Plans for the entire
Planning and organising 5 100 organization (Visionary)
122
75% 50% 25% SCORE
skilled w ithout
Multi skilled w ith
qualif ication and
skilled w ith experience 5
experience, requires
to some extent
mentoring
Both w ritten and Oral but uses oral communication Little or no inf ormation
little f ace to f ace to describe simple routine f low , apart f rom opersonal 2
w orks recording daily activities
executes w hat has been
collect data f or record
Format and generate thought but does not use
reports
keeping and implement
self discrestiojn or
2
analysed plans
anlaytical
Hard w ork, Rest and
less Physical w ork, little
interval allow ed, no very little physical w ork,
exposure to hazardous or
f atigue, Comf otable
luxuries w ork station
5.25
w orkstaion,
extreme conditions
Mental w ork but not Mix of physical and mental
monotonus, not w ork, Executes Little mental w ork, just
answ erable, less criticle instructions physically execute instruction given
4
responsibility w ith some discreation
Small impact as heavy
Crucial but renew able Non crucial but important
ref inement higher of f icers
1
Supervising junior Supervisies w orkers and
managers, requires some operators,requires some Requires supervision 1
supervision himself supervision himself
take decisions w hich are
crucial by only w ith take decisions w hich are take smaller decisions that
1
consulation of other not crusial too w ith consultaion
of f icaials
Accountability of a
Accountability of a team Individual accountability 1
department or a group
Solve problems f or a Solve problems f or a team, Individual problem solving
department, High lesser Qualif ied and and execution of solutions 1.5
qualif ication experience laid dow n by others
plans f or a department plans f or a team individual planning 1.5
TOTAL 25.25
75% 50% 25% SCORE
skilled w ithout
Multi skilled w ith qualification and
experience, requires
to some extent skilled w ith experience mentoring 5
uses oral communication Little or no information
little face to face to describe simple routine flow , apart from opersonal
w orks recording daily activities 3
executes w hat has been
collect data for record thought but does not use
Format and generate keeping and implement self discrestiojn or
reports analysed plans anlaytical 1.5
Hard w ork, Rest and
interval allow ed, no less Physical w ork, little
exposure to hazardous or fatigue, Comfotable very little physical w ork,
extreme conditions w orkstaion, luxuries w ork station 4.5
Mental w ork but not Mix of physical and mental
monotonus, not w ork, Executes Little mental w ork, just
answ erable, less criticle instructions physically execute instruction given
responsibility w ith some discreation 2
Small impact as heavy
Non crucial but important
Crucial but renew able refinement higher officers 3
Supervising junior Supervisies w orkers and
managers, requires some operators,requires some
supervision himself supervision himself Requires supervision 1.5
take decisions w hich are
crucial by only w ith
consulation of other take decisions w hich are take smaller decisions that
officaials not crusial too w ith consultaion 0.75
Accountability of a
department or a group Accountability of a team Individual accountability 0.75
Solve problems for a Solve problems for a team, Individual problem solving
department, High lesser Qualified and and execution of solutions
qualification experience laid dow n by others 1.25
plans for a department plans for a team individual planning 1.25
TOTAL 24.5
 ANNEXURE 7
Section a

QUESTIONNARE

SEGMENT – I

i.Which Cad system is being used in your organization?

Intellocad

ii.When was the CAD system being implemented in your organization?

 Before 5 years
 3-5 years
 1-3 years
 less than 1 year
iii.How many times has the organization upgraded the CAD software or installed / changed
to a new one ?
 Once
 Two – five times
 Almost every year
 Whenever required

SEGMENT – II (PURPOSE)

ii.Is CAD easier than traditional methods?

(a) User’s point of view:
(b) Your point of view:
iii.For what purpose/s is the CAD system being used? (Can be more than one)
 Pattern making
 For digitizing the patterns provided by buyer’s
 Marker planning
 Alterations in patterns
 Grading
 Other’s
iv.Does CAD result in greater productivity, is it more lucrative?
(a) Yes
(b) If no,
why?_____________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________

SEGMENT – III (GENERAL)

i.Do you feel that CAD is affordable?

 Yes
 No
 Cant say

123
 ii.Are traditional skills required to work on CAD?
Please Comment: Training is given to employees before they join for work.

iii.Are experienced pattern makers (who manually developed patterns and markers) easily
accepting the extensive use of CAD / CAM?
 Yes
 No
 Sometimes

iv.Is the combination of an individual readily available who is an expert in CAD / CAM
and pattern making?
 Yes, always
 No, sometimes
 Rarely

SEGMENT- IV (TRAINING)

i.Was any training imparted to the operator when the new soft-ware was installed?
 Yes
 No
 If yes, then for how many days?
- Less than 7 days
- 7-15 days
- More than 15 days
ii.Are you satisfied with the training given?
 Yes
 No
 If no, please specify the reason?
- Training should be of longer duration
- Language problem
- Any other __________________________

iii.Do you think that training is only required when a new software is installed or do you
recommend an in-house training otherwise as-well?
 Training every year or 6-months
 Only when a software is installed

iv.Do you think that the person working on CAD / CAM should be well versed in Pattern
and Marker development or should he have fair knowledge about textile and styling as-
well?
Please Comment:

They should have knowledge of both the fields

124
SEGMENT – V (PEOPLE INVOLVED)

i.How many people are working in the pattern development and marker making
department?
Please specify, (125ncorre.) 5

ii.Has the number changed (increased / decreased) with the usage of CAD?
 Reduced
 Are the same
 Can’t say
iii.What is the age of person working on CAD?
 20-25 yrs.
 25-35 yrs
 Above 35 yrs.
iv.Does he have any prior work experience on CAD?
 Yes
 No
 If yes, then how many years?
- 1 yr.
- 1-2 yrs
More than 2 yrs.

Section b

The following factors have been identified to have an influence on adoption of CAD /
CAM.

(Kindly select the most appropriate option)

125
 Factors influencing Strongly Moderatel Indifferent Moderatel Strongly Can’t
adoption of IT positive y positive y negative negative say
High Price 

Reduces dependence 
on people

Failed installation in 
other organization

Collaborative working 
between various
employees, supplier
and buyer is easier

Ability of supplier to 
train the users in our
organization

Saves fabric 

The supplier does not 

have an office in the
location where my
organization is
situated

Improves first pass 

quality product

Reduces throughput 
time for product
assemble

Requirement of 
constant training

Ready availability of 
literate professionals

Constant up gradation 
of system required

Others please specify--

---------

126
Section c

Analyzing usage of various functions in the CAD / CAM systems.

Note: Kindly tick mark in the relevant column and pen down any remark / comment related
to the point in the last column

S.No. Criteria Always Sometimes/ Rarely Never Additional

Comment
Occasionally

1. Digitization 

2. On screen pattern 
construction

3. Notches option 

4. Dart manipulation 

5. Grading tools 

6. Size 
correspondence

7. Specification 
sheet development

8. Piece assembly 

9. Variant tools

10. Marker planning 

11. Plotting 

12. Piece rotation 

13. Measurement 
capabilities

14. Pattern Design 

127
 functions- Darts,
pleats, trace, cut,
combine, shrink,
stretch, flip,
Rotate pattern.

15. Removing and 

adding patterns

128
 ANNEXURE 8
SOFTWARE EVALUATION
Section One - Overall Software Requirements Name of the software- ERP
Meeting your general or overall software Total (your
Ref. Your W/F Score
compatibility requirements W/F * Score )
1.1 Operating System (Widnows NT, XP, etc.)(XP) 4 3 12
1.2 Database format (SQL, Oracle,etc.) (SQL) 4 3 12
1.3 Data import or export requirements 3 3 9
1.4 The look and feel of the application 2 2 4
1.5 Filtering and searching friendliness 3 3 9
1.6 Look ups 3 2 6
1.7 User configurabilty of look ups and lists 3 2 6
1.8 Users configurabilty of tags and labels 4 3 12
1.9 Handling of links to ancillary information 3 2 6
1.10 Required number of concurrent users 4 3 12
1.11 Archiving requirements 2 2 4
1.12 Barcoding, PDAs and remote devices 1 0 0
1.13 Single or multi-site functionality 3 2 6
1.14 Graphical, hierarchical data structure 3 2 6
1.15 Regulatory compliance support 3 2 6
1.16 Ease of implementation 4 3 12
1.17 Additional database software required 3 3 9
1.18 System maintenance 4 3 12
1.19 Paperless systems 4 3 12
1.20 Access to data from various areas 4 3 12
1.21 Equipment history 3 2 6
1.22 Simple login process 4 4 16
1.23 Speed 4 3 12
1.24 Customisable screens 0 0 0
1.25 Resourcing 3 2 6
1.26 Alternative Languages 3 2 6
1.27 Overall ease of use 4 3 12
1.28 Your Data
1.29 Your Data
1.30 Your Data 85 225
Total A B C

Effeciency = C/(A*4)*100

Efficiency 66.17647059

129
Section 2 – Application Support for various functions in the Name of the software- ERP Stage
Unit 6.5.1
Application Support for various functions in the Total (your W/F * Score
Ref. Your W/F Score
Unit )
2.1 Marketing ( Pre Sales)
Enquiry 4 3 12
Quotation 4 3 12
Folow up – buyer ratings 4 3 12
Communication – summary /status 4 2 8
2.2 Sales Order Processing ( post sales) 0
Bulk, Sample, Job orders 4 3 12
Order Tracking 4 3 12
Order Amendments/cancellation 4 3 12
Technical review, 4 3 12
Order Grouping, Shipment status 4 3 12
2.3 Planning and Scheduling (T & A) 0
Planning document 4 3 12
Process Sequence 4 3 12
Allocation to Jobs ( skill matrix ) 4 3 12
BOM status 4 4 16
Fabric/Yarn Consumption 4 3 12
Order budget/Actuals 4 3 12
2.4 Purchase and Stores 0
Purchase Order handling and status 4 3 12
Goods received details 4 3 12
Invoice details 4 3 12
Quality inspection details 4 3 12
Supplier rating 4 3 12
Debit and credit note 4 3 12
2.41 Raw Material Store 0
Opening stock updates 4 3 12
Requisitions in and out 4 3 12
Stock transfer 4 3 12
Isuues to process and production 4 2 8
2.5 Process Management 0
Process orders, issues, receipts, returns 4 3 12
Quality and inspection 4 3 12
Debit and credit note 4 3 12
2.6 Production and Floor management 0
Material Inward 4 3 12
Fabric Consumption plan/details 4 3 12
Bundling 4 1 4
Cut garments Stock 4 2 8
Components Tracking 4 2 8
Damaged Fabric Stock 4 2 8
2.61 Printing/Embroidery/Other Stages 0
2.62 Sewing 0
Capacity Planning 4 3 12
Line allocation 4 2 8
Line issues/Bundles 4 2 8

130
 Line production 4 3 12
Rejections 4 2 8
Issues/receipts statements 4 3 12
Capacity vs production details 4 2 8
Daily Production Summary 4 4 16
2.63 Finishing / WIP finishing 0
2.64 Checking / Ironing / Packing / Despatch 0
Piece issues / receipts 4 3 12
Packing entry 4 3 12
Despatch details 4 3 12
Returns and damages details 4 3 12
2.65 Quality and inspection 0
Size set 4 4 16
Accessory inspection 4 4 16
2.7 Shipment and Documents 0
Shipping Bill /Invoice 4 3 12
Payment Pending 4 3 12
Buyer Payment/Discounts 4 3 12
Letter of credit etc 4 0
2.8 Asset Management 0
Asset Inward Details 4 3 12
Asset allocation / Transfer 4 2 8
Service Records 4 3 12
Caliberation 4 2 8
Disposal / depreciation 4 2 8
Warranty / AMC 4 3 12
2.90 Personal Management 0
Employee records 4 4 16
Allowance/deduction 4 3 12
Payslip 4 3 12
Loans and advances etc 4 3 12
2.91 Financial Management (tally 7.2) 0
Ledger 4 3 12
Balance sheet 4 3 12
Vouchers 4 3 12
Trail balance 4 3 12
Sales / Purchase 4 3 12
2.92 Other specific options not metioned above ( if any)
2.93 Other specific options not metioned above ( if any)

268 756
Section 2 Total A B C

Effeciency = C/(A*4)*100 70.52238806

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Section3 - Administration and Security Name of the software- ERP Stage 6.5.1
Administration and
Ref. Your W/F Score Total (your W/F * Score )
security Assessments
3.1 Ease of use 4 3 12
3.2 Tabular selection 4 4 16
3.3 Password 4 4 16
3.4 Individuals and group settings 4 4 16
3.5 Audit trial 4 3 12
3.6 Customisation 3 2 6
3.7 Your Data 0
3.8 Your Data 0
3.9 Your Data 0
3.1 Your Data A B C
Section 3 Total 23 B 78

Effeciency = C/(A*4)*100 84.7826087

Name of the software-

Section 4 – Reports
ERP Stage 6.5.1

Your Total (your

Ref. Reports and statistical output Score
W/F W/F * Score )

4.1 Ease to access to reports 4 4 16

4.2 Data export capability 4 4 16
4.3 Customisable reports 4 3 12
Format of reports (graphical/text)
4.4 4 4 16
[text]
4.5 Your Data
4.6 Your Data
4.7 Your Data 16 60
A C
Section 4 Total B

Effeciency = C/(A*4)*100 93.75

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 Section 5 – Web Based
Name of the software- ERP Stage 6.5.1
Software

Ref. Web based Assessments Your W/F Score Total (your W/F * Score )

5.1 Purchase of rent 4 3 12

5.2 Data ownership 3 3 9
5.3 Functionality 4 3 12
5.4 Response Speed 4 4 16
5.5 Company stability 4 4 16
5.6 Cost analysis 3 3 9
5.7 Internet access (yes) 3 3 9
5.8 Customisation 3 2 6
5.9 Spare 0
5.10 Spare 0
5.11 Spare 0
5.12 Spare
28 B 89
Section 5 Total

Effeciency =
C/(A*4)*100 79.46428571

Final Scores
Section Description Effeciencies
1 Overall Software Requirements 66.18%
2 Application Support for various functions in the Unit 70.52%
3 Administration and Security 84.78%
4 Reports 93.75%
5 Web Based Software 79.46%
6 Vendor and Vendor Support 61.54%
7 Software and Associated Costs 64.29%
8 FINAL EFFECIENCY 74.36%

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20. REFERENCES
1. Departmental Study, Primary data
Dress Master Apparel Pvt. Ltd.
2. Review of Literature (2017), Available at:
i. https://www.leanproduction.com › smed
ii. https://www.leanaccountants.com
iii. https://www.sixsigmadaily.com
iv. A Revolution in Manufacturing, The SMED system, by Shigeo Shingo

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