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Introduction
The stock hazard flasher switch for the E‐21 is junk and should never have
passed QC back in the late1970’s when the car was designed. There are posts on
bimmerforums.com about how to modify the stock switch so that it will actually
work. The mod involves taking the switch apart, and bending a metal tab and pin so
that the switch will stay together in the “flasher on” position, and remain depressed
when the flashers are turned off. When I tried this mod, the switch started melting
and smoking, then blew several fuses. Luckily I didn’t cook any of the car’s wiring
harness. The brand new switch was junked, and I may as well have flushed fifty‐
some odd dollars down the toilet.
The modification I will explain here looks nice, and is reliable, however there
are a couple drawbacks. The switch itself does not flash, nor does the dash light
when the hazards are on. However, the dash light will work during normal
operation of the turn signals. Also, you need to have the key on when you want to
use the hazards. This is inconvenient for emergencies when you may need to leave
the car and want it secured. This mod has worked for me, and I had to do it in order
to get a state inspection sticker in MA. Please be careful while working on the wires
in your car because they are old and delicate! Modify your car at your own risk.
Let’s Get Started
First, you are going to need to find the right switch. Here it is:
*Cost: $2.99 plus tax at Radioshack
Model/Catalogue Number: 275‐694
This switch is rated for 120 V and 6 Amps. There may be more than 6 Amps running
in your car’s hazard light wiring, but the switch still works. It is a 6‐pin on/off
rocker switch. It is ideal because it fits in the OEM hazard switch bracket, and it can
make the two different connections necessary to operate the hazard lights.
Before installing the switch, you will want to solder some leads onto the top four
pins. You will also want to use some super glue, krazy glue, or a similar product to
secure it inside its socket. I used “Zap‐A‐Gap” which is good stuff. You can even see
some of the white residue in my pictures. The figure below shows the connections to
make, and assigns numbers to each pin.
*Back of switch, off position facing up
Use a soldering iron to neatly connect the wires. Pins 1 and 4 get T’d together, and
pins 2 and 3 get their own leads. We are not using pins 5 and 6. In the pictures
below, the switch is already installed into the OEM socket. When you install the
switch, put some glue on the threads, then screw on the ring nut. Glue is needed
because it is hard to get a tool in there to tighten the nut.
The connections from the switch to the wiring harness are as follows. Pins 1
and 4 from the switch go to the blue/black wire on the harness, pin 2 goes to the
blue/red wire, and pin 3 goes to the green/yellow wire on the harness. You also
need to jump the purple/ black and the green/purple.
This crude drawing represents the face of the wiring harness plug.
Make sure you remember to jump the wires from harness. The purple/black
connects to the green/purple wire.
Before I did this write‐up, I had the switch connected to the harness with
crimp terminals. Because I was in there getting these photos, I decided to pull
the wires out of the harness entirely to keep them from slipping out, which has
happened in the past. The strange thing is that some of the wires in the harness
are not used
When I did this, I soldered all of the connections. I basically figured out how
to do this mod by looking at the connections that the stock switch made,
combined with trial and error hot wiring. I recommend exercising extreme
caution when testing the lights after you make your connections. If anything
seems like its shorting, or you are blowing fuses be ready to turn the key off fast!
I do not want anyone cooking their wires. This method works well enough for
me, and has relieved me of much aggravation. There may even be a better way
to do it such that the dash light works, and/or to allow operation of the flashers
without the key being in the ignition. Like I stated in the beginning, modify your
car at your own risk. Good luck!