How to Varnish Furniture

Varnish, one of the toughest of the finishes, is superior to the other traditional finishes. It
enhances and gives warmth to the grain of the wood and is resistant to impact, heat, abrasion,
water, and alcohol. It can be used as a topcoat over worn finishes. Varnish provides a clear
finish, but it darkens the wood slightly. It is available in high-gloss, semigloss or satin, and matte
or flat surface finishes. There are many types to choose from, but it's important to decide on one
that will work well with your furniture wood.

Types of Varnish

The traditional varnish is based on natural resins and oils and is thinned with mineral spirits or
turpentine. Spar varnish is a natural varnish formulated to stay tacky; it should never be used for
furniture. Synthetic varnishes are based on synthetic resins and require special thinners.

The best of the synthetic varnishes is the polyurethane type; polyurethanes are clear, non-
yellowing, and very tough. Other synthetic varnishes are the phenolics, used for exterior and
some marine work, and the alkyds, often used in colored preparations. Phenolic and alkyd
varnishes yellow with age and are not recommended for refinishing. With any type of varnish,
look for quick drying to minimize dust problems. Use spray varnish only where brushing is
impractical, such as on wicker or rattan.

Water-base varnishes offer similar results without the cleanup hassle and toxicity. Most dry
clear to the touch in 15 to 30 minutes. They don't crack, chip, or bubble, and they are water- and
alcohol-resistant. Best of all, these varnishes do not yellow. However, when applied in several
coats, the finish might begin to cloud, depending on the wood.

Special Requirements

Natural varnish can be used with any stain or filler. The sealer for natural varnish is thinned
shellac or a mixture of 1 part varnish and 1 part turpentine or mineral spirits. Do not mix brands
or types of varnish. Polyurethane varnish is not compatible with all stains and fillers. Before
buying, read the labels to make sure you're using compatible materials. Some polyurethanes
can be thinned for use as a sealer; some do not require sealers. Some sanding sealers are
compatible with polyurethanes.

Water-base varnish can be used over stain and filler, provided you allow the undercoats to fully
cure. This process can take up to a month. You can also apply a sealer coat of shellac between
the two if you don't want to wait.

Be aware that varnish generally dries very slowly and can be difficult to apply, so it's important
to know how to use this finish.

Application Techniques

Apply varnish with a new, clean, natural-bristle brush. Use only new varnish. Varnish that's been
used several times may contain lumps of hardened varnish from around the sides and rim of the
container. These lumps can really cause trouble. If you plan the job properly, you probably won't
have enough varnish left to be wasteful. Leftover varnish can be used on parts that won't show
or projects where the finish isn't critical.

Bare wood to be finished with varnish must be properly prepared, and sanded. (For guidelines
on sanding, click here.) Finished wood to be top-coated must be cleaned and lightly sanded.
Immediately before applying the varnish, clean each surface thoroughly with a tack cloth.

It's much easier to apply varnish to horizontal surfaces than vertical surfaces. Before you start to
work, turn the piece of furniture so that its major surfaces are horizontal. If the piece has
drawers, doors, shelving, and other removable parts, take them out or off and finish them
horizontally. Work on only one surface at a time, and work on large surfaces last.

Apply varnish to the prepared wood with long, smooth, even strokes, laying the varnish along
the grain in strips the width of the brush. Do not touch the brush to the rim of the varnish
container; shake or tap off excess varnish inside the container or on a strike can. The varnish
should flow onto the surface of the wood, with no drag. If the brush starts to pull or if you see
small missed or thin spots, add about 1 ounce of thinner to the varnish.

For natural varnish, use turpentine or mineral spirits. For polyurethane varnish, use the thinner
recommended by the manufacturer. Stir the thinner gently into the varnish, being careful not to
raise any bubbles.

Apply varnish first along the grain of the wood, flowing it on in even
strips. Then apply more varnish across the grain to level and even the surface.
After laying on an even coat of varnish in strips along the grain of the wood, apply more varnish
in even strokes across the grain of the wood to level and even the surface. The varnish should
be as even and level as possible, with no thick or thin spots, but a thin coat is better than a thick
one.

Thick coats of varnish take longer to dry, and they tend to crack as the varnish ages. As you
work, remove dust and lint from the wet finish with a rosin lint picker.

After leveling the varnish across the grain, smooth the surface by stroking it
very lightly along the grain with an almost dry brush. Pick off dust and lint as you work.

To finish each surface, tip off the wet varnish in the direction of the grain. Use an almost dry
brush for this step. Holding the brush at a slight angle to the surface, very lightly stroke the
surface of the varnish to remove brush marks and even the surface. Smooth the entire
varnished surface, working in strips along the grain of the wood. As you work, pick off dust and
lint with a lint picker. Any remaining brush marks will disappear as the varnish dries.

Varnish must be applied carefully to prevent thick spots. At outside corners, work from the flat
surface toward the corner; lift the brush as it nears the corner and before it flips down over the
edge. This prevents a buildup of varnish along the edge. At inside corners, work an inch or two
away from the corner; then brush the varnish into the corner, tip it off, and leave it alone. This
method prevents buildup on many flat-surface brushings.
Spots that tend to hold varnish, such as tiny potholes, should be coated just once with varnish
and tipped just once with the brush. Repeated tipping will leave a bulge.

Brush lengthwise along rungs, spindles, and other turnings. On carved moldings, apply the
finish to the carvings first with a fairly dry brush; then finish the flat surfaces with the tip of the
brush. Finally, use a very dry brush to go over the carvings and then the flats, leveling the finish
and removing any fat edges, sags, or runs. On raised panel doors, finish the panels first and
then move on to the flat framing. The finish will build up at the miters in the frame where they
meet the panel; remove the excess with a very dry brush, working from the corner out.

Drying and Recoating

Drying times for natural varnish average about 24 hours, but water-base varnish and
polyurethanes often dry more quickly. Dampness slows drying, so it's recommended that you
extend all drying times if you're applying varnish in humid or wet weather. Also, drying times are
not necessarily curing times, and new varnish is easily damaged. Always let the finish dry at
least 24 hours or as long as the manufacturer recommends; if possible, let it dry a couple of
days or more.

Pick off lint and dust only while the surface is wet or sticky; too much interference could damage
it.

Many varnishes require two or even three coats for a smooth finish -- use your own judgment,
and follow the manufacturer's recommendations. Between coats of varnish, let the first coat of
varnish harden or dry, as recommended by the manufacturer.

Some two-coat varnishes should be applied 10 to 15 hours from the time the first coat was
applied, but in general it's best to wait at least 24 hours -- longer, if possible. When the first coat
is completely dry, lightly sand the varnished wood in the direction of the grain, using grade 7/0
sandpaper on a padded sanding block. Abrade the surface evenly, but don't cut it deeply.

Clean away all sanding residue with a tack cloth, and apply the second coat of varnish the same
way as you did the first. Repeat this procedure, sanding the varnished wood carefully, if a third
coat of varnish is required.

In addition to varnish, another option that stands up well to heavy use is a penetrating resin
finish. Check out the next section for when and how to use this type of finish.

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