Documenti di Didattica
Documenti di Professioni
Documenti di Cultura
INDONESIAN
FOOTWEAR
Published in 2009 by :
Trade Research and Development Agency
Ministry of Trade, Republic of Indonesia
Cetakan Pertama
INDONESIAN FOOTWEAR
3
Introduction
The footwear industry is an important industry for Indonesia. It is one of the largest
contributors of jobs and revenues for the country. It employs millions both directly and
indirectly. The industry in recent years is showing a sign of robust growth after a period of
intense global competition. It is only fitting that the Ministry of Trade through its Research
4
The Indonesian footwear industry is an industry which relies on creativity and ingenuity
to survive. It also, by no accident, one of the most creative in the world, as the reader shall
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see in this booklet. Our team of researchers and surveyors have travelled to the centers
of Indonesian footwear industry, all in a spirit to provide the reader with a mesmerizing
picture of the world of Indonesia-made footwear. I hope that this booklet will entice its
FOOTWEAR
readers to find out more about Indonesian footwear industry and its endless potentials.
Muchtar
Head
Trade Research and Development Agency (TREDA)
Minister of Trade
Republic of Indonesia
Message
It is our great pleasure to share with you one special type of numerous product lines
the ages, the creativity of Indonesian people has given birth to numerous products and
also industries that are both strong during economic expansion and resilient in times of
downturn.
The footwear industry, in particular, is intensely competitive. There are many producing
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countries and efficient manufacturers. Yet, Indonesian firms have a long experience in
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are pushing the limits further to develop footwear with better designs and footwear
As part of our national efforts at improving Indonesian share in the world market, this
booklet present background information on Indonesian footwear for the readers to appre-
ciate. Enriched with vivid illustrations, this book is dedicated to those who are interested
in exploring the richness and economic potentials of footwear industry and fashion.
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8
The foot is the most important
limb. Good footwear improves
mobility, enhances health, and 9
9
improves life’s quality
IN
I NDDOONNEESSI A
The foot is arguably the most important limb
I ANN FFOOOOTTWWEEAARR
of a human being. It supports the entire human’s
weight, and what makes mobility possible, and
therefore define the human “animal”. The foot itself is
the product of millions of years of evolution. It has the most bones than any other limbs. It has 26
bones, 37 joints, 107 ligaments and 19 muscles and tendons. It is also the part of the human body
with the most direct contact with the environment. It is therefore only natural that humans take
extraordinary measures to protect their feet. Good feet protection improves mobility, enhances
health by reducing risks to injury, and ultimately improves life quality by making life more comfort-
able for the human being. Recently, what began as simple feet protection articles have evolved
to serve as body adornments and status symbols in human societies. Enter the world of footwear.
Footwear serves many uses and purposes. It is an indispensable piece of wearable article.
It protects its wearer from the environment. In industrial settings safety footwear are a must in
order to protect workers from falling objects, chemical spills and other hazards. In sports footwear
are further designed and engineered to improve the performance of athletes. Sport shoes make
athletes run faster, jump higher and kick harder, all with yet less fatigue and lower risk of injury.
In the military, footwear is designed to be durable, light and protect soldiers from environmental
factors, including waterproof and pathogen-proof boots. There is footwear for every climate and
field conditions.
Some people have suggested that you can tell a man/woman by his/her shoes. Although the
result you will likely get from applying it may not be entirely accurate, this view certainly suggests
that shoes and footwear have entered the realm of style and cultural significance. Shoes at most
can tell about a person’s attitude, his/her likes and dislikes, his/her occupation, where they have
been, and to some degree, how important material things are to him/her (as shown by the amount
of money that person is willing to spend on a pair of shoes).
10 production makes cheap labor attractive. There is also a growing appetite for an ever expanding
range of footwear for all uses and purposes. As a result, large footwear industry began to develop
tremendously in developing countries. Indonesia is no exception.
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The footwear industry in Indonesia has developed much in the last few decades. From small
boutique shops to large factories making footwear for many of the world’s leading brands. The
Indonesian footwear industry today boasts a massive catalogue of footwear products of all types,
uses, designs and styles. The Indonesian footwear industry today produces about 131 million
pairs of footwear a year worth approximately 2.5 billion US dollars, while employing more than
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440 thousand workers (2008 data), and millions of other workers in related industries. Indonesian
footwear is also exported. Indonesia’s primary footwear export markets are United States, Europe
and Japan.
The Indonesian footwear industry has had its ups and downs, however. Mass footwear manu-
facturing in the country began in the 1970’s. Since then, the industry has continued to grow. Indo-
nesia was once one of the world’s premier exporters of shoes and footwear during the 1990s. In
the 1990s Indonesia was the third largest footwear exporter to the world. Benefiting from cheap
labor, supportive government policies and a dose of local ingenuity, Indonesian footwear makers
were making a name for themselves in the international market. This position was challenged in
the early 2000s as other producers enter the market. Indonesian products had to compete with
new producers and brands from other emerging economies. Since the mid 2000s however, the
Indonesian footwear industry has begun a steady recovery. This is in no small part thanks to the
determination of the local footwear manufacturers and their ingenuity and creativity in the face of
adversity.
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W EE AA R
R
One Step at a Time:
The History of Footwear
Historically, footwear throughout
the world varied according to cli-
mate, environment, terrain and
available raw materials.
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Footwear is defined as any garment or piece of clothing worn over the feet for protection and/
or adornment. One can easily conclude footwear has been around for at least almost as long as
humans walked the earth. The oldest known (i.e. found) footwear is dated at 10,000 BC, while
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experts estimated that humans started wearing some form of footwear beginning in 40,000 to
26,000 BC. Historically, footwear throughout the world varied according to climate, environment,
terrain and available raw materials. They have also varied throughout history influenced by tech-
nological advances, the fashion of the time and and developments in local culture, which in turn
is also influenced by other cultures.
FOOTWEAR
Footwear can make or break your day, or in the case of the Romans, create an empire. The
Roman army was the first to provide footwear to its soldiers. They were the first to realize that
good footwear is an essential piece of a soldier’s equipment. The result of providing durable
footwear suitable for long distance marches and combat was that the Roman army is much more
battle-ready and resilient than any other army that opposed them. This fact (along with other in-
novations in tactics and organization) enabled the Romans to carve out a massive Empire which
lasted for 900 years, all mostly on the soles of the Roman boots.
In the 20th Century, the introduction of and advances in mass production techniques, the
processing of rubber, synthetic materials and the introduction of industrial adhesives further im-
proved upon the footwear industry, making footwear cheaper and more durable. It was only in
the 20th Century that shoe (as opposed to simple footwear) wearing became predominant as a
good pair of shoe becomes affordable. New types of shoes were born, particularly the sneakers
and sports/athletic shoes. Technological advances found their way into modern-day footwear.
Advances in science made possible for the first time ergonomically designed shoes that not sim-
13
ply fit the wearer but also made them more comfortable and, in some, enhances their physical
performances as in the case of athletic shoes.
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The 20th Century also saw the first instances of outsourcing. With labor becoming increas-
ingly expensive in the developed world, major footwear manufacturers from the developed world
began to set up factories or contract their footwear production to firms outside their home country.
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Indonesia is one of the countries that gain benefit from this outsourcing boom.
One can trace Indonesian industry to the early 20th Century. In the 1920s, a number of local
workers of a Dutch shoe factory left their jobs to start their own shoe-making businesses. They
became the embryo of Cibaduyut shoe industry cluster, with now has grown to around 800 busi-
nesses and annual production of 4 million pairs. This area becomes well-known nation-wide for
their quality and their competitive pricing.
Another landmark in modern footwear manufacturing in Indonesia was in the 1940s when
Bata, a Czech company, set up its factory in what is now known as the Kalibata (literally, “Bata
stream” as the locals came to name the neighborhood) area of Jakarta. Mass footwear manufac-
turing boom in the country began in the 1970’s. Since then the industry has continued to grow.
Not only they produces local brands or custom-made footwear (the way most businesses in Ci-
baduyut or Mojokerto do), but also global brands. Companies like Nike, Adidas, Bata, etc. have
large manufacturing partners in Indonesia. Indonesia was one of the world’s premier exporters of
shoes and footwear during the 1990s when it was the third largest footwear exporter to the world.
Sandals, Boots,
and Other Footwear
The footwear industry today has developed much and is a far cry from what it was just 10
years ago. New materials, production methods and styling are constantly being added to the
ever-expanding product catalog. Today’s footwear market offers a wide variety of footwear to suit
every need and occasion. Basically today’s footwear can be categorized based on their function
and intended use, and also their general shape. Indonesia produces almost every type of shoes,
but is particularly strong in the sports and leather segments.
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There are so many foreign and local brands that are produced in Indonesia. The catalog
includes sport shoes giants (Nike, Reebok, and Adidas), designer brands (Benetton, Tommy Hil-
figer and Pierre Cardin), and many others. Below is an inexhaustive list of those brands.
As mentioned earlier, Bata may have been the oldest major manufacturer still in operation.
The products are mostly leather formal shoes for men and women, but it also has business units
producing casual and sports shoes, injection moulded sandals and slippers, and industrial safety
footwear. Bata, Marie Claire, Power, Bubblegummers, and Weinbrenner are brands owned by
the company.
The manufacturing of Nike shoes maybe the most high profile of all in recent times. About 55
million Nike sport shoes are produced in Indonesia, an estimated USD 1.3 billion in value and
considered its largest production base. Production cost is often cited as the main reason multi-
nationals move their production out of industrialized nations. Nevertheless, this doesn’t change
15
the fact that Indonesia has the infrastructure and manufacturing capability to mass produce high-
quality shoes. It is no mean feat, considering the rigorous standards demanded by the brands
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and their consumers.
Less well known by the general public is Indonesia’s accomplishment in other categories.
There are few examples to briefly illustrate this. Unicorn, for example, has been producing safety
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footwear since 1976 and boasts dozens of local and multinational corporations as clients. In-
donesia is also entrusted of supplying a large quantity of NATO-standard military boots. In the
category of HS 950670 (which includes ice skates and roller skates), in 2008 Indonesia was the
13th largest supplier to Europe (with over USD 6 million) and rank 3rd for NAFTA countries (with
more than USD 12.5 million)—both are stunning growth considering the value was not significant
in 2005, as reported by Trade Map website.
In modern footwear industry today, many different kinds of materials are used for footwear
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making. In addition to the traditional wooden and rubber for soles, leather for uppers and steel for
everything that needs hard reinforcements, modern materials spawned out of industrial research
labs have entered the world of footwear making. These include materials that are waterproof,
fast-drying, breathable (allows moisture to escape from the footwear, and thus improving comfort
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and hygiene), germ-proof, etc. There are also innovative sole materials and design which provide
and improve the wearer’s comfort and protection. Plastics, polymers, and new threads and mate-
rials have all been used in footwear making. Some of today’s footwear are made from layers and
some are equipped with special linings for added protection or properties.
Most of footwear production today has undergone industrialization and are typically organized
into four distinct steps. These are cutting, closing, lasting and finishing. Cutting involves cutting
the fabric and base materials of the footwear into the desired shape. Closing is the process of
sewing the cut uppers and forming a three dimensional shape of the footwear. Lasting is the
process of forming the upper around a “footwear mold” or a last. The last is needed to give the
footwear a uniform fit and shape and to keep the right and left side of the pair in equal measure.
Finally the footwear product undergoes finishing processes for applying the final touches such as
trimming excess materials, attaching laces if needed, labeling and packaging.
The machineries used for footwear-making have made progresses. From simple traditional
footwear-making tools of the early days into today’s advanced computerized industrial machines
with laser-guided precision. Despite of the advances in industrial machinery, much of the work
that goes into footwear-making however still requires the nimble and flexibility of human hands. In
fact, the degree of complexity that goes into footwear-making makes total automatization practi-
cally impossible. Machines exist mostly to aid its human operators in performing . These chores
include sewing, which is still done mostly by hand aided by simple sewing machines. Sewing by
hand is typically done especially for complex patterns which would be done cheaper by hand 17
rather than using expensive machines. Lasting final checks and quality assurance are also done
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by humans for obvious reasons.
The most common material used for footwear manufacturing is leather and Indonesia pos-
sesses good quality leather. Javanese cow-hide leather is one of the highest quality leather types
in the world. Javanese cow-hide leather is typically more flexible and less susceptible to tearing
FOOTWEAR
compared to other types of leather in the world. It is also found to generally have very little defect
and thus not much is wasted in the process of footwear making. The unique property of the Java-
nese cow-hide leather is due to the unique climate and cattle-feed used. All these factors support
the Indonesian footwear industry in its bid to face competition in the international marketplace.
The Indonesian footwear industry has a
long history. The footwear industry in Indo-
nesia has grown in many locations around
the country. From small-shop footwear mak-
ers to large internationally connected manu-
18 facturers, one can find footwear makers of all
sizes and specialties in Indonesia.
Indonesian
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ESS II A
Footwear Industry
FF O
OOO TT W
WEEA
ARRANN
The Indonesian footwear industry has a long history. Most of the oldest local footwear manu-
facturers still in business today however, were founded in the late 1960s to early 1970s. Foreign
footwear manufacturer investment began as early as 1940 when Bata, a Czech company set up
its factory in what is now known as the Kalibata (literally, Bata stream as the locals came to name
the neighborhood) area of Jakarta. In 1988, the Indonesian footwear industry was strengthened
by the founding of Aprisindo (Asosiasi Persepatuan Indonesia, Indonesian Footwear Associa-
tion), which acts as the industry’s voice and facilitator and also its lobbyist. The footwear industry
in Indonesia began to boom in the early 1990s to 2000.
Since the early 2000s however, new competitors appeared from the emerging economies of
China, Vietnam, and others. They flooded the market with cheaper goods and and was able to
gain much market share. This trend has changed in recent years, however. Today, Indonesian
footwear makers are slowly regaining their foothold in both global and local markets. Chinese
goods are slowly becoming more expensive as their industrial capacity and value chain expand-
19
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ed. Allegations of dumping tactics, poor labor practices and inadequate control of toxic materials
ESS II A
have further tarnished their reputation to the global footwear industry. Today, once again Indone-
ANN
sian footwear makers are being inundated by foreign orders.
FF O
OOO TT W
Indonesia holds a number of advantages as we will see in the following chapters. These
WE
qualities are namely the well-established culture of creative footwear-making among Indonesian
EA
ARR
footwear makers, an industrious footwear-making industry accustomed to handling foreign buy-
ers’ exacting demands, supportive government policies and a well-established domestic footwear
market.
The footwear industry in Indonesia has grown in many locations around the country. From
small-shop footwear makers to large internationally connected manufacturers, one can find foot-
wear makers of all sizes and specialties in Indonesia. The footwear industry in Indonesia today
consists of more than 250 registered industries. These are however concentrated in the island of
Java, and include such major cities and urban centers, e.g. Jakarta, Bekasi, Tangerang, Yogya-
karta, Surabaya, Sidoarjo, Bandung and Garut. Small manufacturers typically cater to domestic
markets. Medium to large-sized manufacturers typically have some of their manufacturing ca-
pacities used for catering to foreign orders. While manufacturing for the foreign market remains
strong, most large internationally-exposed manufacturers however, also produce for the local
market. This will help them to cushion any hard impacts from the fluctuations of foreign demands.
The Indonesian footwear industry can be proudly claimed as one of the best in the world. It is
also an export-oriented industry. Indonesia exports 20 times as many footwear as it imports. In
addition to makers of sports footwear and sneakers, some of the world’s most exclusive, luxuri-
ous (and expensive) brands outsource their products’ manufacturing to Indonesia. Some special-
ized Indonesian footwear manufacturers are used to taking orders from the exacting demands of
foreign buyers. They may even propose new designs to the buyers, in addition to taking design
directions from them. Some manufacturers even manufacture high-end footwear products for
exclusive events all over the world, in addition to exclusive European high-end brands. A number
of Indonesian manufacturers also manufacture NATO-standard military boots. In addition, as
mentioned in earlier chapter, Indonesia also possesses good quality leather, the most common
material used for footwear manufacturing.
Indonesian footwear industry today produces a broad and ever-increasing range of products.
All kinds of types of footwear for both the domestic and foreign markets can be found manufac-
tured in a number of industrial centers around the country. Some of them are as follows:
Tangerang and Bekasi host some of the largest industrial complexes in the country and con-
tain some of the largest industrial-scale footwear manufacturers in the country. Through the many
government agencies and industry associations and representatives, Jakarta and its surrounding
area is the ideal place when one seeks to experience the breadth of the Indonesian footwear
business.
In addition to large industrial estates, Jakarta also hosts a small-business footwear indus-
try complex in the Perkampungan Industri Kecil (PIK). This center, located in the Penggilingan,
Cakung area of East Jakarta. This complex houses large number of local small-scale businesses,
including a great number of footwear businesses. Most of their footwear products are made by
hand and are rather innovative and affordable. This complex was built by the government to fa-
cilitate small industries’ development in the Jakarta area.
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footwear makers however, not only manufacture low-priced footwear. Some of them also work as
suppliers to large footwear manufacturers both from domestic and abroad. Today the Cibaduyut
area boasts more than 800 footwear making businesses with capacity to produce more than 4
million pairs annually.
In addition to the traditional footwear making community at Cibaduyut, Bandung and its sur-
rounding area also contain industrial complexes and are home to a large number of footwear
manufacturers. One can find a great many variety of footwear manufacturers. They cater to
the foreign as well as domestic markets. Their existence help Bandung to be the trendsetter of
the fashion industry where millions of consumers and commercial buyers flock to the “Factory
22 Outlets” and “Distros” located around the city.
Also located in the West Java Province, the cities of Garut, Bogor and Sukabumi are also
large footwear making sites. Garut is well known for its leather tanning and leather goods in-
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dustry. There are more than 300 leather tanning shops of all sizes in Garut. This makes Garut a
natural footwear-maker home. It also supplies footwear makers around Jakarta and West Java
Province with leather. Bogor is a city located in a hilly region some 60 kilometers South of Jakarta
in the West Java Province. This temperate, rainy city is home to a footwear industry with a 16.5
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million annual capacity. In Sukabumi, one can find some of the largest footwear maker factories
making products for a number of overseas footwear brands. The capacity of footwear industry in
Sukabumi is around 30 million pairs annually.
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ing sneakers for the local and foreign markets. Surabaya is also a port city which facilitates easy
export and delivery of goods by sea.
Sidoarjo is a Regency located in the East Java Province of Indonesia, close to Surabaya.
FOOTWEAR
With its 1.6 million inhabitants, the Regency of Sidoarjo is one of the footwear industry hotspots
in the country. The Sidoarjo area is being set up by the Indonesian government to become a pilot
project of a footwear industry cluster. An industry cluster system seeks to integrate businesses
in an industry within a geographical region to their markets and suppliers. This pilot project has
been in operation since 2005 and thus today, one can find a well-entrenched footwear industry in
Sidoarjo. The footwear industry in Sidoarjo exports approximately 50% of its products. Sidoarjo
also hosts the Indonesian Footwear Service Center. The Indonesian Footwear Service Center
provides industrial skills training and industrial development for Indonesian footwear maker, es-
pecially small and medium sized businesses. It also provides job trainings for the footwear-mak-
ing workforce.
Yogyakarta Area
Province of Yogyakarta is a Special Administrative Region located in the southern part of
central Java. It has long been the center of creative industries in the country. As footwear goes,
Yogyakarta hosts the Indonesian Center for Leather, Rubber and Plastic (Balai Besar Penelitian
dan Pengembangan Kulit, Karet dan Plastik) which provides technical services in the materials
essential to footwear-making. Yogyakarta is also the home to the Indonesian Leather Technology
Academy (Akademi Teknologi Kulit). These centers were built in Yogyakarta not without
a reason. Yogyakarta is one of the academic centers of the country. A number of the nation’s
premier universities is located in Yogyakarta. It is a highly creative city and also hosts industrial
centers, especially in creativity-oriented industries, which footwear-making has quickly become.
The footwear market center in Yogyakarta is located in the Manding area of the city. In addition,
the greater Special Administrative Area Province of Yogyakarta, in the Regency of Bantul, there
is a leather goods center located on Wahidin Sudirohusodo Avenue.
Some of the finest footwear made in Indonesia are made to satisfy the requirements of some
of Europe’s finest brands. The quality of Indonesian made footwear brands are evident in the
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increasing amount of orders directed to Indonesia. Since the culture of accepting and working
to foreign orders (“outsourcing”) has been well-entrenched in some parts of the industry, it is no
wonder that more and more foreign orders flood the country’s manufacturers. As of the writing
of this booklet, the footwear industry in Indonesia is booming yet again after experiencing a long
downturn throughout the mid 2000’s.
FOOTWEAR
One reason the Indonesian footwear industry in Indonesia is thriving again is its adaptabil-
ity. The Indonesian footwear industry when it was being devastated by Chinese imports turned
inward and focused on some things the mass-producing factories of China could not produce:
quality and creativity. Quality of outputs can only be obtained from good inputs. Inputs include raw
materials and skilled workers. In the area of skilled workers, one needs only to tour the various
Indonesian footwear making workshops and find that they are really workshops, not sweatshops.
The increasingly open and democratic society in Indonesia makes it virtually impossible to keep
inhumane working conditions. Indonesia also has some of the most worker-oriented labor laws
in the region. Also, an Indonesian company in contract with a foreign (Western) buyer are used
to treating their workers humanely to comply with the strict labor regulations typically imposed
by such contracts. These regulations typically include conditions on the minimum wages, safety
equipment, fire protection and health/sanitation facilities provided for their employees. With these
quality and good inputs, the products of Indonesian manufacturers are increasingly favored by
foreign footwear manufacturers.
Indonesian Footwear :
Creativity, Quality
and Adaptability
25
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26
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The Government and
the Footwear Industry
The role of the Indonesian government in spurring
the growth of the footwear industry is through many
approaches and supporting efforts. These are through
providing regulatory supports, industrial trainings, set-
ting and/or encouraging the forming up of industrial
clusters and organizing various promotional efforts and
exhibitions and also in managing industrial relations,
especially with foreign partners.
27
One of the ways that the Indonesian government works to develop the country’s footwear
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industry is by providing regulatory supports. The government also sponsors regular trade shows
and organizes local businesses to go to exhibitions abroad. There is also a virtual exhibition
space provided by the National Agency for Export Development, at www.nafedve.com. The In-
donesian government also works as intermediaries during labor disputes and also has shown
FOOTWEAR
itself to be helpful in keeping jobs at home. In the past few years there had been cases where the
government had been able to influence large footwear brands to keep their outsourcing jobs in
Indonesia. Indonesia has also been viewed as providing the most conducive footwear business
climate in the region. This is evident that in 2009, Nike, a prominent footwear manufacturer de-
cided to close 4 factories in other region, yet none in Indonesia.
A Ministry of Trade paper in 2003 outlined development programs for small and medium-sized
footwear companies. Some of the programs stated by the Ministry are facilitating specific market
development, assisting exhibition and promotion in and out of the country, encouraging intel-
lectual property rights and local brand development, improving human resources in production,
assists in capital raising, and implementing ISO 9000 standard. One notable program is the setup
of Indonesia Footwear Service Centre (IFSC) in Sidoarjo, East Java.
The paper also listed four main development areas: Regency of Bogor and the City of Band-
ung (in West Java), the Regencies of Sidoarjo and Mojokerto as well as the City of Surabaya
(East Java), the City of Medan (North Sumatra), and East Jakarta.
From the diagram one can clearly see that a footwear industry cluster is aimed at having a
robust industry having all its supporting elements and markets well integrated. This in turn will en-
able the industry to better compete while drawing from the agglomerated creative energies within
the cluster. It will also act as a catalyst for the development of the region’s economy as the cluster
needs an ever increasing supply of everything it needs to support its continued existence.
One success story of footwear industrial cluster development by the government is in Sido-
arjo. Sidoarjo is a Regency located in the East Java Province of Indonesia, close to Surabaya.
With its 1.6 million inhabitants, the Regency of Sidoarjo is one of the footwear industry hotspots
in the country. The Sidoarjo area is being set up by the Indonesian government to become a pilot
project of a footwear industry cluster. An industry cluster system seeks to integrate businesses
in an industry within a geographical region to their markets and suppliers. This pilot project has
28
STRONG ECONOMIC
INFRASTRUCTURE
FOOTWEAR
been in operation since 2005 and thus today, one can find a well-entrenched footwear industry in
Sidoarjo. The footwear industry in Sidoarjo exports approximately 50% of its products. Sidoarjo
also hosts the Indonesian Footwear Service Center. The Indonesian Footwear Service Center
provides industrial skills training and industrial development for Indonesian footwear maker, es-
pecially small and medium sized businesses. It also provides job trainings for the footwear-mak-
ing workforce.
A unique feature of the cluster system developed by the government is “the champion.” As
the majority of businesses here are on home-industry level, capital will always pose a challenge.
The “champions” are high-capital businesses that own their own brands and nurtured a group of
COLLABORATION OF FOOTWEAR INDUSTRY CLUSTER
Establishment of footwear
industry cluster and supplier
MOU Progress of collaboration
cluster with Decree of betwen big footwear
Director of Miscellanous companies and suppliers
Footwear Industry
Industry (Ministry of Industry) Supplier Industry
Cluster Forum
(Core/Champion) Forum
Supplier Industry
Core/Champion Industry (Agglomeration Industry)
(SME) (SME) Collaboration position
during diagnostic stage
MOU
29
smaller operations. They set up quality standards and train the other workshops. A small business
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can submit designs to the champions, and once approved, it will be mass-produced by the group.
The cluster development strategy however also has its drawbacks. One of the most obvious draw-
back is that it can only be developed in areas where existing potentials already exist. This limits
its development scope. It also requires much planning, coordination and implementation efforts,
FOOTWEAR
TARGET STRUCTURE OF
A FOOTWEAR
TARGET STRUCTURE INDUSTRIAL
OF A FOOTWEAR INDUSTRIAL CLUSTER
CLUSTER
SUPPORT
Government
Research and Training Warehouse and
Financial Agencies in Strong Industry Labor
Development Center and Transportation
Service Central and Infrastructure Association Association
Center Universities Services
Regional
particularly among the involved parties, which limits the number of cluster that the government
is able to develop at any given time. The government however plans to develop more clusters in
potential locations.
Another example of illustrating the Government’s role in developing the industry, one can look
at West Java’s Cibaduyut area (a sub-district of Bandung, the capital of West Java Province). In
the case of Cibaduyut (as mentioned in the previous chapter), the Government quickly realized
its potentials. This area of around 14 sq. km is dubbed “the Shoe Heaven.” In the 1970s, the Gov-
ernment, through the hand of the Ministry of Industry and the non-profit Institute for Social and
Economic Research, Education and Information (LP3ES), tried to develop the area by assigning
Technical Service Unit (UPT) for the shoe and leather industry here. The office was later trans-
ferred to the West Java Provincial Government and renamed Installation for the Development of
Small and Medium Shoe Industry (IKM Persepatuan). The Ministry of Trade and the Postal Cor-
poration (PT Pos Indonesia) has been involved since the 1990s to assist in logistics and delivery.
While supply of leather raw materials was negotiated by the Shoe and Leather Cooperatives in
the area.
30 In the technical, research and development areas, the government operates a number of
agencies. One example is the Indonesian Center for Leather, Rubber and Plastic (Balai Besar
Penelitian dan Pengembangan Kulit, Karet dan Plastik) and the Indonesian Leather Technology
Academy (Akademi Teknologi Kulit) located in Yogyakarta. The Indonesian Center for Leather,
INDONESIAN
Rubber and Plastic provides technical services in the materials essential to footwear-making. The
Indonesia Leather Academy on the other hand provides job training for workers destined for the
footwear making industry and also related research and development projects.
On the marketing side, the Ministry of Trade through the National Agency for Export Develop-
FOOTWEAR
ment (NAFED or known as BPEN in Indonesian) actively promotes Indonesian products national-
ly and internationally. It has an online virtual exhibition at www.nafedve.com and organizes Trade
Expo Indonesia (TEI) in Jakarta, an annual exhibition to promote Indonesian products.
It is the country’s largest exhibition on Indonesian products and industries. The
Agency also conducts trade mission and send companies to attend
international exhibitions in other countries.
INDONESIAN FOOTWEAR
32
INDONESIAN FOOTWEAR
Global Trade in
Footwear
Footwear business is a huge business, amounting to US$ 91 billion worth of export in 2008. The Peo-
ple’s Republic of China is the biggest supplier to the world with nearly one-third of world exports. Italy is a
distant second and Vietnam third.
INDONESIAN
6 Belgium 1,940,964 2,522,321 2,974,277 3,396,171 3,703,291
7 Netherlands 1,365,895 1,525,036 1,607,206 1,842,887 2,164,217
8 France 1,476,242 1,517,628 1,677,839 1,984,034 2,142,325
9 Spain 2,321,866 2,189,177 2,308,977 2,626,815 2,029,042
FOOTWEAR
10 Brazil 1,903,813 1,984,458 1,966,586 2,038,057 2,025,176
11 Portugal 1,651,822 1,599,548 1,595,865 1,801,224 1,975,019
12 Indonesia 1,320,479 1,428,518 1,599,766 1,637,955 1,885,473
13 Romania 1,512,494 1,589,037 1,703,177 1,782,507 1,749,188
14 India 849,999 1,049,255 1,234,676 1,412,039 1,581,201
15 UK 773,415 844,733 946,242 1,074,641 1,135,306
16 USA 650,866 726,828 829,360 887,422 1,038,396
17 Thailand 760,168 892,184 932,932 976,421 960,745
18 Slovakia 452,654 472,148 497,220 685,483 904,741
19 Austria 747,295 791,380 808,194 753,795 839,640
20 Denmark 460,875 489,228 578,924 640,846 742,133
Other Countries 6,544,559 6,990,331 7,844,626 9,035,892 8,959,178
TOTAL WORLD EXPORTS 59,915,240 66,556,196 73,274,824 82,203,192 91,613,680
(US$)
1 640319 Sports Footwear (Other Than Ski Footwear) Nesoi, With Outer Soles Of Rubber, Plastics, Leather Or Composition Leather And Uppers Of Leather 889,355,024 47.169%
2 640399 Footwear, With Outer Soles Of Rubber, Plastics Or Composition Leather And Uppers Of Leather Nesoi, Not Covering The Ankle 292,172,279 15.496%
34
3 640411 Sports Footwear, Including Tennis Shoes, Basketball Shoes And Gym Shoes, With Outer Soles Of Rubber Or Plastics And Uppers Of Textile Materials 210,263,412 11.152%
4 640219 Sports Footwear, Other Than Ski-Boots And Cross-Country Ski Footwear, With Outer Soles And Uppers Of Rubber Or Plastics Nesoi 171,426,318 9.092%
5 640419 Footwear, With Outer Soles Of Rubber Or Plastics And Uppers Of Textile Materials, Nesoi 60,925,255 3.231%
Footwear, With Outer Soles Of Rubber, Plastics, Leather Or Composition Leather And Uppers Of Leather, Incorporating A Protective Metal Toe-Cap
INDONESIAN
HS 640219 35
Sports Footwear, Other Than Ski-Boots And Cross-Country Ski Footwear, With Outer Soles
INDONESIAN
And Uppers Of Rubber Or Plastics Nesoi
FOOTWEAR
2 East Java 8,170,707 5,695,539 6,582,105 6,774,456 6,914,104
3 Central Java 62,844 587 232,531 1,092,959 498,500
4 Bali 95,440 26,892 149,398 158,671 37,383
Other Provinces 284,440 31 6 31,925 60
TOTAL 187,095,150 167,749,908 131,721,113 127,203,716 171,426,318
Source: BPS-Statistics Indonesia
HS 640199
Waterproof Footwear With Bonded Or Cemented Outer Soles And Uppers Of Rubber Or
Plastics, Incorporating A Protective Metal Toe-Cap
No. PROVINCE VALUE : US$
2004 2005 2006 2007 2008
1 DKI Jakarta 2,048,249 1,318,682 2,098,201 1,404,175 661,470
2 Bali 203,936 243,375 189,396 175,413 271,455
3 East Java 1,005,312 452,792 397,277 312,022 207,075
4 North Sumatera 37,611 31,671 27,933 3,278 36,536
Other Provinces 316,906 90,023 292,048 2,788 6,902
TOTAL 3,612,014 2,136,543 3,004,855 1,897,676 1,183,438
HS 640319
Sports Footwear (Others than ski footwear) Nesoi, with outer soles of rubber, plastic, leather
of composition leather and uppers of leather.
36
DKI Jakarta
East Java
in US$ Central Java
No. PROVINCE 2008 Bali
INDONESIAN
HS 640399
Footwear, with outer soles of rubber, plastic or composition leather and uppers of leather
nesoi, not covering the ankle
DKI Jakarta
East Java
Bali
Riau in US$
No. PROVINCE 2008
1 DKI Jakarta 240,892,746
2 East Java 51,245,865
3 Bali 31,348
4 Riau 2,265
Other Provinces 55
TOTAL 292,172,224
Source: BPS-Statistics Indonesia
Indonesian footwear export may have fluctuates in value, but 2008 has been a record year for
most categories. The following charts show the total value of Indonesian footwear exports from
all provinces for the past 5 years.
HS 640340
Footwear, with outer soles of rubber, plastics, leather or composition leather and uppers of
leather, incorporating a protective metal toe-cap
in US$
37
HS 640359
Footwear, with outer soles and uppers soles and uppers of leather nesoi, not covering the
INDONESIAN
ankle.
in US$
FOOTWEAR
Source: BPS-Statistics Indonesia
HS 640391
Footwear, with outer soles of rubber, plastics or composition leather and uppers of leather
nesoi, covering the ankle.
in US$
The world’s biggest market for footwear is USA with more than US$ 20 billion. For Indonesia,
USA is also the largest customer, taking in around US$ 400 million worth of goods every year for
the past five years.
HS6402190000
FOOTWEAR
INDONESIAN
Source : BPS - Statistics Indonesia
HS 6403191000
Sports footwear fitted with studs, bar & the like,foot ball,running,golf shoes
FOOTWEAR
No. Country 2008
Value (US$)
USA
1 UNITED STATES 67,857,154
Germany
2 GERMANY 28,732,807
Netherlands
3 NETHERLANDS 20,444,742
UK
4 UNITED KINGDOM 20,318,485
Belgium
5 BELGIUM 16,449,315
Italy
6 ITALY 10,916,286
Russia
7 RUSSIA 5,638,170
Japan
8 JAPAN 5,351,869
Spain
9 SPAIN 4,974,152
China
10 CHINA 3,293,684
Other Countries
Other Countries 26,284,158
TOTAL 210,260,822
Source : BPS - Statistics Indonesia
HS 6403199000
Sports footwear not fitted with studs, bar & the like
40
INDONESIAN
FOOTWEAR
HS 6403400000
Footwear,incorp. a protective metal toe cap base/platform of wood
INDONESIAN
HS 6403990000
Other footwear other than covering the ankle
FOOTWEAR
No. Country 2008
Value (US$)
Italy
1 ITALY 40,107,853
UK
2 UNITED KINGDOM 39,146,327
3 DENMARK 37,657,693 Denmark
HS 6406109000
Uppers & parts thereof, oth than stif feners of oth than metal
FOOTWEAR
INDONESIAN FOOTWEAR
44
INDONESIAN FOOTWEAR
Ministry of Trade
Republic of Indonesia
JI. M.I. Ridwan Rais No.5 Main Building - 4th Floor Jakarta 10110 INDONESIA
Phone. [62-21] 385 8171 (hunting) Fax. [62-21] 235 28691
E-mail. mendag@depdag.go.id
INDONESIAN
(62-21) - 384 8662
E-mail irjen@depdag.go.id Jakarta 10310 -INDONESIA
Phone (62-21) 315 6315
Directorate General of Domestic Trade Fax (62-21) 315 6135
Jl. M.I. Ridwan Rais No.5 Building I, 6th Floor
E-mail. kabappebti@depdag.go.id
Jakarta 10110 - INDONESIA
Phone (62-21) 23524120, 2352 8620 Website www.bappebti.go.ld
FOOTWEAR
Fax (62-21) 23524130
E-mail dirJen-pdn@depdag.go.id Trade Research and Development Agency
(TREDA)
JI. M.I. Ridwan Rais No. 5 Main Building
Directorate General of Foreign Trade
4th Floor, Jakarta 10110 - INDONESIA
JI. M.I. Ridwan Rals No. 5 Main Building, 9th Floor
Jakarta 10110 - INDONESIA Phone (62-21)3858171 (hunting)
Phone (62-21) 23525160 Fax (62-21) 23528691
Fax (62-21) 23525170 E-mail kabalitbang@depdag.go.id
E-mail djdaglu@depdag.go.id
T: (41-22) - 3455733
atdag-dnk@depdag.go.id atdag-nld@depdag.go.id
F: (41-22) - 3383397
atdag-che@depdag.go.id
Egypt People’s Republic of China
Indonesian Embassy Indonesian Embassy
Dongzhimenwai Dajie Thailand
13, Aisha EL Temoria St. Garden City
P.O. BOX 1661 Cairo, Egypt No. 4 Chaoyang District, Beijing, China 100600 Indonesian Embassy
T: (20-2) - 7944698, 7947200/9 T: (86-1) - 65324748 -65325488-3014 600-602 Pitchburi Road, Rajthevi P.O.Box
F: (20-2) - 7962495 F: (86-1) - 65325368 1318
FOOTWEAR
INDONESIAN
USA ITM-4-J-8, Asia and Pasific Trade Center
itpc-chicago@depdag.go.id 2-1-10 Nanko Kita, Suminoe-ku Osaka, Japan
T: (81-6) 66155350
ITPC Dubai F: (81-6) 66155351
Arbift Tower4 floor # 403 Baniyas street Deira itpc-jpn@depdag.go.id
PO.Box 41664, Dubai - UAE www.itpc.or.jp
T: (971-4) 2278544
F: (971-4) 2278545 ITPC Santiago
FOOTWEAR
itpc-are@depdag.go.id Claro Solar Street No. 835, Office 304
www.itpcdubai.com Temuco District and City Santiago, Chili
aliakbar_h2000@yahoo.com
ITPC Hamburg
Multi Buro Servise Glokengisserwall 1720095 ITPC Sao Paulo
Alameda Santos, 1787 - Conj. 111 Cerqueira
Hamburg - Germany
Cesar, CEF: 01419.002
T: (49-40) 33313-333
Sao Paulo, Brasil
F: (49-40) 33313-377 T: (55-11) 32630472 / 35411413
inatrade@itpchamburg.de F: (55-11) 32538126
ITPC Jeddah
itpc-bra@depdag.go.id
INDONESIAN ECONOMIC
Jeddah Intl.Business Center / JIBC 2nd Fl
PO.BOX 6659, Jeddah 21452KSA.
ITPC Shanghai AND TRADE OFFICE
Xu Hui Distrik, Wend Ding Road
Ruwais District, Jeddah, Saudi Arabia 4th Fl, Shanghai RRC
itpc-sau@depdag.go.id itpc-chn@depdag.go.id
PT. Surya Intrindo Makmur TBK PT. Gading Wana Raya Lestari
Address : Kompleks Permata Industri E10-11 Tam- Address : Jl. Pangeran Jayakarta Komplek 24 No.
bak Sawah Waru Sidoarjo Indonesia 56, Jakarta 10730
Tlp : 031-8683888 Tlp : (021) 6298645-48
Fax : 031-8674445 Fax : (021) 6497482
48
PD. Karunia PT. PRESTASI IDE JAYA
Address : JL. Raya SBY – Krian KM. 23 Desa Address : JL. Raya Industri No. 17 Desa Betro.
Siderejo, Sidoarjo 61262, Jawa Timur- Indonesia Kecamatan Sedati Kabupaten Sidoarjo 61253
INDONESIAN
Tlp :
36 Surabaya 60272 Indonesia
Fax :
Tlp : 031- 5320945
Fax : 031-5313799
PT. Berkat Ganda Sentosa
Address : JL. Gunung Gangsir Desa Randupitu
PT. Young Tree Industries
Kecamatan : Gempol – Pasuruan Jawa Timur –
Address : JL. Raya Banar RT: 07 RW :02 Ketimang
Indonesia
Wonoayu Sidoarjo – Jawa Timur Indonesia
Tlp : 0343- 631624
Tlp : 031-8857417
Fax : 0343- 631395
Fax : 031-8857416
INDONESIAN
Tlp : 0343- 8511080/81
Fax : 031- 7481056
Fax : 0343- 852103
CV. Sepatu Sani
PT. Sumber Kreasi Fumiko
Address : JL. Abdul Rachman Saleh 17 Pakis ,
Address : Jl. Sentani Raya Blok M No. 29 Gunung
Malang, Jawa Timur – Indonesia
Sahari Utara, Sawah Besar, Jakarta Pusat 10720
Tlp : 0341- 792222
Tlp : (021) 6402277
FOOTWEAR
Fax : 0341- 792221
FX : (021) 64713562, 645871
PT. Cinderella Vila Indonesia
PT. Kega (fashion Addict)
Address : Jl. Tanjung Sari No. 20 Tandes Surabaya
Address : Jl. Gunawarman 71 Kebayoran Baru,
– Indonesia
Jakarta Selatan
Tlp : 031- 7492520-5
Tlp : (021) 72800169 , 7665648
Fax : 031- 7492528
Fax : (021) 7665648
PT. Golden Footwear Indotama
PT. WIDAYA INTI PLASMA
Address : Jl. Raya Ketajen No. 08 Gedangan,
Address : JL. Industri No. 08 Bringin Bendo Taman-
Sidoarjo 61254
Sidoarjo Jawa Timur
Indonesia
Tlp : 031-7886584
Tlp : 031- 8918353-6
Fax : 031-07886584
Fax : 031- 8918358
INDONESIAN FOOTWEAR
52
INDONESIAN FOOTWEAR