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Contents
1Materials
2Scales
3Measurements and scales
4Painting
5Manufacture
6Sculpting
7Miniatures in Dungeons & Dragons
8See also
9References
Materials[edit]
Traditionally, miniatures were cast in white metal, an alloy of lead and tin. A small amount
of antimony was sometimes added to improve the alloy's ability to take fine detail. In
1993, the New York legislature introduced a bill outlawing lead in miniatures, citing public
health concerns. Many miniature manufacturers, anticipating that other states would also
impose bans, began making figures with lead-free alloys, often at increased price.[1] After
months of debate and protests by miniature manufacturers and enthusiasts, New York
Governor Mario Cuomo signed a bill which exempted miniatures from the state's Public
Health Law.[2] Despite this, most American manufacturers continued to use non-lead
alloys.[3]
In addition to metal miniatures, manufacturers offer figures in plastic (polyethylene or
hard polystyrene) and resin. Some wargames use box miniatures, consisting of card
stock folded into simple cuboids with representative art printed on the outside.
Scales[edit]
With metrication in the United Kingdom, United States manufacturers began to use
the metric system to describe miniatures, as opposed to the previously
popular customary units, so that their table-top wargaming models would be compatible.
In 28 mm scale, children and short characters such as dwarves, hobbits, and goblins are
smaller than 28 mm, while taller characters like ogres, trolls and dragons are larger.
Scales of 20 mm, 25 mm, 28 mm, 30 mm, 32 mm, and 35 mm are the most common for
role-playing and table-top games. Smaller scales of 2 mm, 6 mm, 10 mm, 15 mm, and
20 mm are used for mass-combat wargames. Painters and collectors commonly use
larger figures of 54 mm or more but 40mm and 54mm have never been completely
abandoned by wargamers and have become popular again since the late 20th century
although not as popular as the smaller sizes.
The use of scale is not uniform and can deviate by as much as 30%.[citation needed] A
manufacturer might advertise its figures as 28 mm, but their products may be over
30 mm tall. A contributing factor is the difference in methods used to calculate scale.
Some manufacturers measure figure height from the feet to the eyes rather than the top
of the head; therefore, a 6-foot (1.83 m) figure in 28 mm scale would be 30 mm tall. As a
result, 15 mm figures can be variously interpreted as 1:100 scale or 1:120.
A further complication is differing interpretations of body proportions. Many gaming
figures are unrealistically bulky for their height, with an oversized feet, heads, hands,
wrists, and weapons. Figurines with these exaggerated features are often referred to as
"heroic scale". Some of these exaggerations began as concessions to the limitations of
primitive mold-making and sculpting techniques, but they have evolved into stylistic
conventions. In the table below, figure height alone (excluding base thickness) is the
feature from which approximate scale is calculated.
In many games designed for use with 28mm scale figurines, there is a definite scale
specified for the square grid that the game is played upon. Conventionally, 1 inch
represents 5 feet. This specifies an exact scale of 1:60. That implies that a 28 mm tall
figurine represents a 1.68 meter person - which is a reasonable number for a modern
50th percentile male (See: Human height).
Another popular scale is 1/72 sometimes also called 20mm, but closer to 23mm. Mostly
used for historical gaming in part due to a wide selection of 1/72 scale models.
Figure Scale
Scale foot Comments
height ratio
30 mm 5 mm ≈1:61.0
Common for pre-1970s wargaming figures; modern minis
may be up to 35 mm. Close to S scale model railroads.
Figure Scale
Comments
height ratio
Formerly the most commonly produced size of miniatures. Still produced today
25 mm ≈1:64 by companies such as Ground Zero Games,[5] Denizen Miniatures [6] and many
others.
≈1:58 The most common size of miniatures today, as it is used by Games Workshop.
28 mm
- 1:56 Though technically 1/58, figures of this height by companies such as Warlord
Games and Wargames Factory often also have 1/56 on the packaging and in
their advertising.[7]
[9]
Painting[edit]
Main article: Figure painting (hobby)
Manufacture[edit]
There are two basic methods of manufacturing figures: centrifugal/gravity casting
and plastic injection casting.
Most metal and resin figures are made through spin casting. Larger resin models, like
buildings and vehicles, are sometimes gravity cast, which is a slower process. To gravity
cast, a sculptor develops a master figure, which is then used to create rubber master and
production moulds. The production moulds are used to cast the final commercial figures.
Polyethylene and polystyrene figures are made by injection moulding. A machine heats
plastic and injects it under high pressure into a steel mould. This is an expensive
process; it is only cost effective when manufacturing large amounts of figures, since the
quantity renders the cost per cast minimal.
Many miniatures companies do not produce their figures themselves but leave the
manufacturing to specialized casting companies or miniatures companies that have
casting facilities.
Sculpting[edit]
Most miniatures are hand sculpted using two-component epoxy putties in the same size
as the final figure. The components of the putty are mixed together to create a sculpting
compound that hardens over 48 hours. Some common brands include Polymerics
Kneadatite blue\yellow (also known as "green stuff" and "Duro" in Europe), Milliput, A&B,
Magic sculpt, and Kraftmark's ProCreate.
Until recently, sculptors avoided polymer clays as they cannot withstand the traditional
mouldmaking process. Modern techniques using RTV silicone and softer-quality rubbers
have made it possible to use weaker materials, so that polymer clay masters have
become more common. Fimo clay is popular, though due to the individual properties of
certain colours, only a limited selection of colours is used.
Masters for plastic miniatures are often made in a larger scale, often three times the
required size. The master is measured with a probe linked to a pantograph that reduces
the measurements to the correct size and drives the cutter that makes the moulds.
A more recent development is the use of digital 3D models made by computer artists.
These digital models create a physical model for mouldmaking using rapid
prototyping techniques. Alternatively, they can be used directly to drive a computer
numerical control machine that cuts the steel mould. They can also simply skip moulding
steps and directly produce miniatures from 3D models.[10]
See also[edit]
Miniature conversion
Model figure
References[edit]
1. ^ Bigalow, Robert 1993. "Through the Looking Glass", Dragon Magazine192:112–118
(April 1993).
2. ^ N.Y. P.B.H. Law § 1376-a
3. ^ Bigalow, Robert 1984. "Through the Looking Glass", Dragon 205:114–122 (May 1994).
4. ^ "TMP All About Scales". Theminiaturespage.com. Retrieved 2017-03-21.
5. ^ "Ground Zero Games". Shop.groundzerogames.co.uk. Retrieved 2017-03-21.
6. ^ "Denizen Miniatures Home Page". Denizenminiatures.co.uk. Retrieved 2017-03-21.
7. ^ "Wargames Factory LLC - Hard Plastic 28mm 1/56 Scale Model Figures for
Wargaming". Wargamesfactory.com. Retrieved 2017-03-21.
8. ^ "Reaper Miniatures :: Miniatures". Reapermini.com. Retrieved 2017-03-21.
9. ^ "TMP All About Scales". Theminiaturespage.com. Retrieved 2017-03-21.
10. ^ Stew Shearer (2014-01-15). "Hero Forge Kickstarter Aims to Provide Custom Minis for
Tabletop RPGs | The Escapist". Escapistmagazine.com. Retrieved 2017-03-21.
11. ^ Gygax and Arneson, 1974, Dungeons & Dragons Vol-1, p. 3
12. ^ Gygax and Arneson, 1974, Dungeons & Dragons Vol-1, p. 5
13. ^ Gygax, 1979, AD&D Dungeon Masters Guide, p. 10-11: "The special figures cast
for Advanced Dungeons & Dragons add color to play and make refereeing far easier.
Each player might be required to furnish painted figures representing his or her player
character and all henchmen and/or hirelings included in the game session."
14. ^ Gygax, 2003, ENWorld game forums: "I don't usually employ miniatures in my RPG
play. We ceased that when we moved from Chainmail Fantasy to D&D."