TEXTILE INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP

AT
TEEJAY INDIA PRIVATE LTD.
VIASHAKAPATNAM, ANDHRA PRADESH

Submitted by
Jetti Rushitha
Nutukurthi Venkat Ramji
Yere Yaswanth Kumar

UG-TECHNOLOGY SEMSTER 5
(BATCH 2017-2021)

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY,
HYDERABAD

0
 TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

TEEJAY INDIA PRIVATE LTD.

VIASHAKAPATNAM, ANDHRA PRADESH
Mentor: Dr. Shakeel Iqbal

Submitted by-
Jetti Rushitha (BFT/17/1104)
Nutukurthi Venkat Ramji (BFT/17/1770)
Yere Yaswanth Kumar (BFT/17/468)

NATIONAL INSTITUE OF FASHION TECHNOGY, HYDERABAD 1

 INDEX

1. OBJECTIVE OF THE INTERNSHIP………………………………………….5

2. COMPANY PROFILE…………………………………………………………….8
3. WORK PROCESS FLOW CHART……………………………………………9
4. RAW MATERIAL…………………………………………………………………10
5. KNITTING…………………………………………………………………………..13
6. DYEING………………………………………………………………………………19
7. PRINTING…………………………………………………………………………..28
8. FINISHING………………………………………………………………………….30
9. QUAQLITY ASSURANCE………………………………………………………33
10. EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT………………………………………….39
11. CONCLUSION…………………………………………………………………….40
12. REFERENCES……………………………………………………………………...41

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 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
The success and final outcome of this project required a lot of
guidance and assistance from many people and we are extremely
fortunate to have gotten them all along the completion of our project
work.
We would like to express our gratitude to our mentor Dr. Shakeel Iqbal
for his useful comments, remarks and engagement through the
learning process of this Textile Internship.
We thank Mr. Gautham Shetty Vakwady and Dr. Shahazadi Shaik for
giving us an opportunity to visit Teejay India Private Ltd., Mr. Ravi
Dantluri and Mr. Sudhir in Teejay India Private Ltd., Ms. Sri Lekha for
providing all the support and guidance which helped us complete the
project on time. We are extremely grateful to all the people who
eagerly helped us understand and provided us with such support and
guidance though they had a busy schedule managing the company
affairs.
We would like to thank our loved ones, who have supported us
throughout entire process, both by keeping us harmonious and
helping us putting pieces together. We will be grateful forever for their
love.

NATIONAL INSTITUE OF FASHION TECHNOGY, HYDERABAD 3

 DECLARATION
We the students of BFT – 5th semester hereby declare that this
INTERNSHIP REPORT on Teejay India Private Ltd., Textile division,
Vishakhapatnam, Andhra Pradesh is our original work. Any reference
made from secondary data source have been duly acknowledged in
bibliography at the end of the report. If at any stage the work is found
to have plagiarized, the internship report would render itself null and
void.

Jetti Rushitha

Nutukurthi Venkat Ramji

Yere Yaswanth Kumar

BFT – V
NIFT HYDERABD

Dr. Shakeel Iqbal

(Associate Professor
Department of Fashion Technology)

NATIONAL INSTITUE OF FASHION TECHNOGY, HYDERABAD 4

 OBJECTIVE OF INTERNSHIP
To understand the concept of grey fabric(Knitted) production, dyeing,
printing, finishing of fabric, textile testing and their quality aspects
both technical as well as for commercial purposes.

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 TEEJAY INDIA PRIVATE LIMITED
A weft knit product manufacturer and exporter of dyed and printed
single jersey, rib and interlock fabric, Teejay India Private Limited
commenced operations in January 2009. The company is located in
the Brandix India Apparel City, a Special Economic Zone with 100%
export-oriented units involved in the integrated apparel supply chain
at Visakhapatnam, AP, India.
Currently in the process of increasing it’s dyeing and finishing capacity
from 18 tons to 35 tons/ day by 2017.
We see ourselves becoming one of the leading fabric mills in India with
a heavy focus on increasing quality, efficiency, reliability and
profitability.
Teejay India milestones:
 Ocean India was incorporated in July 2007 (and construction of the
factory began in November 2007).
 The plant was commissioned, and deliveries commenced in 2009.
 Printing Operations started in October 2010 in collaboration with
Quenby Lanka Prints.
 The company entered into a Technical Agreement with Pacific Textiles
from 2011- 2013
 The company entered into a Technical Agreement with Textured
Jersey (Teejay Lanka) from Oct 2013.
 TJL acquired OCI in Sep 2015.
The company name was changed to Teejay India in November 2016.

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Company overview:
Considered to be the largest Textile Group and Knit Fabric Provider in
South Asia, the Teejay Group specializes in weft knitting and is
regarded as Sri Lanka’s only multinational mill. The Group has its
headquarters in Avissawella, 52km away from Colombo and has a
state-of-the-art printing facility along with a Strategic Business Unit in
India.
At Teejay, we offer a wide range of products and services related to
weft knit manufacturing. While offering wide solutions in knitting,
dyeing, finishing and printing, we have extended our portfolio to
include lace dyeing, yarn dyeing and synthetic production. We are also
engaged in extensive research and development and have also hoping
to venture into online business in the future.
Our customer portfolio stretches from Europe to USA including global
brands such as Intimissimi, Tezenis, Calvin Klein, Victoria’s Secret,
Marks & Spencer, Lidl and Decathlon, with plans to start business with
the Asian Hub, from India and Bangladesh to Japan. Teejay was
recognized both in Sri Lanka as well as internationally for best
corporates, being rated by Forbes as one of the Best Corporates in Asia
under a net worth of 1 billion dollars. A public quoted company with
39% public ownership, we are proud to be backed by Sri Lanka’s
largest apparel exporter, Brandix Lanka with 33% share ownership and
Pacific Textiles – the world’s second largest textile mill, with share
ownership of 28%.
Providing employment to over 2200 people in India and Sri Lanka, we
are constantly focused on driving sustainability, partnership and
innovation as key aspects of our DNA. We believe in creating bonds
through the magic of fabric and fashion and in creating bigger dreams
and visions for the future.

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 COMPANY PROFILE
Table 1: Company profile
NAME : TEEJAY INDIA PRIVATE LIMITED

BUSINESS : Weft knitted fabric manufacturing

CORPORATE OFFICE : Teejay India Private Limited

Plot No. 15,BIAC SEZ,
Visakhapatnam - 531011,
Andhra Pradesh,
India
WORKS : Manufactures weft knitting and dyeing
fabric.

CUSTOMER : Intimissimi, Tezenis, Calvin Klein, Victoria’s

Secret, Marks & Spencer, Lidl and
Decathlon, M&S, Jockey, H&M.

Contact Details: Teejay India Private Limited, Plot No. 15, BIAC SEZ,
Visakhapatnam - 531011, Andhra Pradesh, India.

Tel: +918924237010/ +918924237011

Fax: +91 8924 23700

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 PROCESS FLOW OF COMPANY
The buyer specifications first arrive at Teejay India. The fabric
merchandisers send the specifications the knitting and dyeing unit to
get the sample fabric made. The fabric arrives back to the main office
and sampling is done.
The samples are sent for approval, if the samples are approved the
bulk production is started.
Then bulk production is processed to dyeing, printing and finishing.
The following table shows the process flow of production of fabric.

Figure 1: Process flow chart

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 RAW MATERIAL
Yarn sourcing:
The raw material for the knitting is sourced from the other industries
like Vardhaman, Kinkani.
The yarn sourced will be tested in testing lab and proceeded for the
yarn warehouse.
Yarn classification:
Based on the usage of the yarn the yarn is classified into three types
light yarn, dark yarn and marl yarn
Types of yarns:
There are three types of yarns used in the knitting process namely
cotton yarn, spandex yarn, Lycra.

YARN TESTS
Yarn count:
The yarn count expresses the thickness of the yarn, and must be
known before calculating the quantity of yarns for a known length of
fabric. The yarn count number indicates the length of yarn in relation
to the weight.

Three systems of yarn count are currently in use: the fixed weight; the
fixed length and the Tex systems.

The fixed weight can be used with British and American weights and
systems. The fixed length system and the Tex system are based on
metric weights and measures. Tex is an internationally agreed system
of yarn numbering that applies to all types of yarns, regardless of the
method of production.

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Twist:

"Twist is defined as the spiral disposition of the components of yarn,

which is generally expressed as the number of turns per unit length of
yarn, e.g. turns per inch, turns per meter, etc. Twist is essential to keep
the component fibres together in a yarn.

The strength, dyeing, finishing properties, the feel of the finished

product etc. are all dependent on the twist in the yarn. With increase
in twist, the yarn strength increases first, reaches a maximum and
then decreases.

Depending on the end use, two or more single yarns are twisted
together to form "plied yarns" or "folded yarns" and a number of plied
yarns twisted together to form "cabled yarn".

Among the plied yarns, the most commonly used are the doubled
yarns, wherein two single yarns of identical twist are twisted together
in a direction opposite to that of the single yarns. Thus for cabled and
plied yarns, the direction of twist and the number of turns per unit
length of the resultant yarn as well as of each component have to be
determined for a detailed analysis.

Direction of twist is expressed as "S"-Twist or "Z"-Twist. Direction

depends upon the direction of rotation of the twisting element. Twist
take up is defined as, "The decrease in length of yarn on twisting,
expressed as a percentage of the length of yarn before twisting.

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Yarn strength and elongation:

Breaking strength, elongation, elastic modulus, resistance abrasion

etc. are some important factors which will represent the performance
of the yarn during actual use or further processing. Strength testing
is broadly classified into two methods.

1. Single end strength testing

2. Skein strength or Lea strength

Abrasion Resistance:

Abrasion resistance is the ability of a fiber to withstand the rubbing

or abrasion it gets in everyday use. This property of yarn plays an
important part in its processing e.g. it determines the friction
occurring on thread guides. A measurement of abrasion resistence is
the number of cycles required to break the test specimen at a given
initial tension.

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 KNITTING UNIT

Figure 2: Knitting process flow chart

Knitting department:

Knitting unit has 121 circular knitting machine, 101 single jersey
machines, and 20 double jersey machines.

Figure 3: Knitting area

In single jersey machines 56 machines are low capacity machines (50kg
capacity) and 45 machines are high capacity machines (120kgs
capacity).

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Knitting process:
The planning of knitting is done according to the order taken and the
planning is done such that the end product will be manufactured just
in time.
There are 121 circular machines in total in knitting department. In
which single jersey fabric is made out of 101 machines. In this 56 are
low capacity machines of 50 kilograms. The other 45 machines are of
high capacity machines of 120 kilograms. There are 20 machine which
produce double jersey.
Circular Knitting Machine in Textile:
In apparel manufacturing sector, knitted garment is one of the top
demands from the buyer. Polo shirt, T-shirt, under garments all are
produced from knitted fabrics. Knitted fabric is produced by
using knitting machine. Among all the others knitting
machine, circular knitting machine is widely used in knit fabric
production. This article has shown the various parts of circular knitting
machine and their functions.
Parts of Circular Knitting Machine:
Circular knitting machine contains the below parts:
1. Yarn tensioner
2. Cam box
3. Creel
4. Feeder
5. Needle
6. Base plate
7. Take up roller
8. Yarn guide
9. Cylinder
10. Auto Stopper
11. VDQ pulley
12. Body
13. Sinker

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 Figure 4: Circular knitting machine
Functions of Circular knitting Machine Parts:
Functions of all knitting machine parts have described in the following:
1. Yarn tensioner:
It is used to perfect gripping of yarn by needle.
2. Cam box:
It is used to hold the cam according to the fabric design. Knitting cams
are arranged according to the design.
3. Creel:
Creel is used to place the yarn cone. Yarn is supplied from here to the
machine through the pipe.
4. Feeder:
It is totally related with fabric production. If the number of feeder is
higher than fabric production will be higher.
5. Needle:
Needle is the main part of knitting machine. Needle is used to knit the
fabric. There are different types of needle such as latch
needle, bearded needle, compound needle etc. Among those latch
needle is widely used in knitting technology.
6. Base plate:
Cylinder is situated on the base plate.
7. Take up roller:
It is used to take-up the fabric from the knitting machine.

NATIONAL INSTITUE OF FASHION TECHNOGY, HYDERABAD 15

Take up roller also controls the proper tension on the fabric.
8. Yarn guide:
Yarn guide is used to guide the yarn. During it is necessary for
maintaining proper tension on yarn.
9. Cylinder:
Cylinder is one of the important parts of knitting machine where all
the needles are set.
10. Auto Stopper:
If knitting machine is in the faulty situation then auto stopper will
stops the knitting machine automatically.
11. VDQ pulley:
VDQ means variable dia for quality pulley. It controls the quality of the
fabric. VDQ pulley is very important in maintaining proper stitch
length.
12. Body:
Body of machine is the total area of knitting machine.
13. Sinker:
During loop formation sinker is used to hold and support the thread.
Single Jersey Machines:
Single Jersey machines are equipped with a single “cylinder”, about 30
inch diameter, of needles that produce plain fabrics (single
thickness).Wool production on single jersey machines tends to be
limited to 20 gauge or coarser, as these gauges can use two-fold wool
yarns which will give spirality-free fabrics. An additional inherent
feature of wool single jersey fabrics is that the fabric edges tend to
curl inwards. This is not a problem whilst the fabric is in tubular form
but once cut open can become so if the fabric is not finished correctly.

Double jersey machines:

Double jersey machines are single jersey machines with a “dial” which
houses an extra set of needles positioned horizontally adjacent to the
vertical cylinder needles. This extra set of needles allows the
production of fabrics that are twice as thick as single jersey fabrics.
Typical examples include interlock based structures for

NATIONAL INSTITUE OF FASHION TECHNOGY, HYDERABAD 16

underwear/base layer garments and 1 x 1 rib fabrics for leggings and
outerwear products. Much finer yarns can be used as singles yarns do
not present a problem for double jersey knitted fabrics as the “double
layer” construction works to cancel out the residual torque between
the face and reverse sides, the net effect being no spirality.
Knitting action:

A. The knitting action of a circular rib machine is shown:

1. Clearing: The cylinder and dial needles move out to clear the plain
and rib loops formed in the previous cycle.

2. Yarn feeding: The needles are withdrawn into their tricks so that the
old loops are covered by the open latches and the new yarn is fed into
the open hooks.

3. Knocking Over: The needles are withdrawn into their tricks so that
the old loops are cast off and new loops are drawn through them.

B. The knitting cycle of an interlock machine can be divided in to eight

headings. They are discussed below:

Position – 1: Rest position: The head of these needles are in the range
of the knock over edges of cylinder & dial respectively.

Position – 2: Tucking position of dial needle: The dial needles are

brought into the tucking position.

Position – 3: Tucking position: The cylinder needles are brought in the

tucking position.

Position – 4: Clearing position of dial needle: The dial needles are

come into the clearing position.

Position – 5: Clearing position: The cylinder needle are come into the
clearing position.

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Position – 6: Yarn presenting position: Both cylinder & dial are moved
to the yarn presenting position.

Position – 7: Cast on position: Both cylinder & dial are moved to their
cast on position.

Position – 8: Knock over position: Both cylinder & dial are reaches to
the knock over position.

Fabric produced:

There are 12 types of fabrics produced in the knitting unit, they are:
1) Rib 1*1
2) Rib 2*2 without lycra
3) Rib 2*2 with lycra
4) Single jersey
5) Lacoste
6) Pique
7) Lycra single jersey
8) Lycra inter lock
9) Inter loop
10) Plated single jersey
11) Waffle rib
12) Fleece

Greige fabric inspection:

After the production of the greige fabric, the fabric sent to the
inspection to inspect that the fabric in 4 point system, to have
required quality.

Greige Fabric storage:

After the inspection the rejected fabric sent to scrap management and
the quality fabric sent to store in the greige fabric storage.

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 DYEING UNIT

In the dyeing unit the process start from sample dyeing, where the
fabric taken from greige fabric storage and proceed to dye sample and
then get approved bulk dyeing.

Dyeing sample:
After the completion of the first bulk (app. 200kgs), sample is sent to
the colour team for inspection
Before finish:
Colour team checks the sample colour with standards if the colour is
accepted then it is sent to the finishing department if not the it is sent
for re-dyeing
After finish:
In finishing department, the fabric gets more soften than the fabric
after dyeing, for re-inspection the sample is sent to the customer for
the colour approval.
If the customer approves then the production starts but after each
bulk dyeing the samples are sent to the colour team for colour
approval and also like wise after finish sample also sent to the colour
team for approval
If the customer rejects the colour of the first bulk then again re-dyeing
is started
Colour lab:
The colour team process starts from the merchandise department
receives lab dip request, then the colour lab checks all required points
if they can produce the colour then they accept the lad dip request if
not, it is highlighted to the merchandise department, after lad dip
accepted then issues internal colour number for their identification,
by the help of spectrometer predictions are taken for the further

NATIONAL INSTITUE OF FASHION TECHNOGY, HYDERABAD 19

process using spectrometer points colour is developed and sample of
8g is dyed for trial and error method, if colour is attained then it is
submitted to the customer for approval, if colour not in the
acceptance arrange then it is adjust by manual calculations and re-
process the colour development and dye, if the customer approves
the colour then it is sent for 1Stbulk if customer rejects the colour then
it is re-processed. After 1st bulk recipe is developed then it is issued for
baby dyeing (10kgs), after baby dyeing if colour is obtained then it is
issued for bulk production if not, then adjust and re-process colour
development, 1st bulk contains of 200kgs fabric it is sent for dyeing. If
the 1st bulk colour is accepted then it is sent for dyeing if not, then
proceed for reprocess by re-dye/re-wash or adding pigment or re-
adjusting the colour.

Figure 5: Colour lab

Process:
After receiving the lab dip request they check for the standard colour
if they have it then they proceed for samples if they don’t have it,they
would order it from achorma web site and they would inform the
same for the customer about the delay of any after they receive the
standard , by using the spectrometer the colour predictions are taken
for further process. After getting the predictions they proceed for the

NATIONAL INSTITUE OF FASHION TECHNOGY, HYDERABAD 20

recipes of the colour through trial and error method in copower
automatic dispensing system, after achieving the colour then 8g grams
of fabric sample is taken for dyeing in the mini stenter.
*The fabric sample is taken for 7.8 g only as the fabric contains
impurities which will more weight to the fabric.
After dyeing the samples they are sent to the dark room for verifying
with the standard colour or universal colour under the required light
source request by the customer if the colour is not matched then re-
process is done by adjusting the recipe.
*If there are any sensitive colours then soaping is also done for those
samples.
*If the colour is achieved then the recipe is sent to the further process
for baby dyeing, their 10kgs of fabric sample is taken and process is
done after that dryer, if the colour is achieved then it is sent to the
next process i.e. 1st bulk approx. 200kgs fabric is dyed first, if the
colour is not achieved then again re-process is done, after the 1st bulk
if the colour is obtained then it is sent for the bulk dyeing.
Machines in dyeing unit:
Dark room:
 Spector meter
 Condition cabinate (sensitive colours)
 Very vide light box (victory secrets)
 Mac beth spectral box (marks n spencers , almost all brands )
 UV light box
Dyeing lab:
 Data colour auto lab TF lab dispenser-I (fabric)
 Data colour auto lab TF lab dispenser-II (lace)
 Mini stenters (3)
 Soaping machine (1)

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 Pad-mangle
Baby dyeing:
 10 machines (1 kg capacity)
 Dryers (2)
DYEING:
Dyeing is a process in which color is transferred to a finished textile or
textile material (like fibers and yarns) to add permanent and long-
lasting color. It can be done by hand or by machine. Dyes can come as
powders, crystals, pastes, or liquid dispersions, and they dissolve
completely in an aqueous solution like water. When the textile and
the dye come into contact, the textile is completely saturated by the
dye and colored.

Figure 6: Dyeing area

Types of dyes:
1. Natural dyes
2. Synthetic dyes
3. Basic dye
4. Direct dyes
5. vat dyes
6. reactive dyes

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 7. radio-active dyes
Mostly in teejay they use organic dyes and reactive dyes.
Process of dyeing:
 Preparation
 Bulk dyeing
 Chemical room
Preparation:
In preparation, the rolled form the fabric is spreaded into open width
fabric by using flapper machines for easy process to dye the fabric
without tangles. If there is tubler kints of 100% pure cotton then by
the help of revers machine the fabric turned to reverse side. And also
while the fabric rolled are opened in the flapper machine the rolls are
joined by over lock stitch up to required weight of fabric can be
inserted in the dyeing chamber
Machines:
 6 flapper machines
Bulk Dyeing:
 Pre-treatment
 Dyeing
 Soaping
Pre-treatment:
The pre-treatment is done for the bulk as it contains impurities, fleece.
They removed by adding few removing agents according to the fabric
are:
 Bleach
 Full bleach
 With caustic
 Without caustic

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Dyeing:
After pre-treatment the dyeing process starts in the same machines
the chemicals are add in the outside tanks, the dyeing machine
consumes the dyeing according to time preparation, after that it starts
the soaping process. If the colour is not obtained then re-dyeing is
done adjusting the recipe or sometimes by adding a little amount of
dye stuff to obtain accurate colour.
Soaping:
Process Flow Chart of Soaping Fabric in Dyeing:

Machine filling with water

↓
Heating at 60 0C
↓
Acetic acid dosing (pH check)
↓
Run time 6 min.
↓
Heating at 95 0C
↓
Chemicals dozing
↓
Run time 12 min.
↓
Cooling at 70 0C
↓
Rinse
↓
Drain out
The whole process takes nearly 7-8 to complete the bulk dyeing
process

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Defects which might occur in dyeing are:
 Adding wrong chemicals
 Missing chemical quantity
 Misbalance of PH level
Machines:

Figure 7: Dyeing machines

Table 2: Eco Machines (old machines)
Machine no. Kgs Volume Chamber
D-1 150 750 1
D-2 250 1250 1
D-3 200 900 1
D-4 275 1250 1
D-5 560 2500 2
D-6 500 2500 2
D-7 750 3700 3
D-8 1000 5000 4
D-9 1000 5000 4
D-10 1500 7500 6
D-11 1500 7500 6

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Table 3: Jumbo Machines (New updated)
Machine no. Kgs Volume Chambers
D-12 1200 5960 4
D-13 300 1500 1
D-14 1800 8900 6
D-15 900 4500 3
D-16 600 2900 2
D-17 300 1500 1
D-18 1200 5960 4
D-19 300 1500 1
D-20 1800 8900 6
D-21 900 4500 3
D-22 600 2900 2

Table 4: Sample Machines

Machine no. Capacity
S1-S4 60Kgs
S5-S7 30Kgs
S8-S9 10Kgs

*In updated jumbo machines water and time are saved

*Overall shift wise fabric wastage is 10-15 Kgs.
Chemical Room:
Chemicals:
 Sodium hydroxide
 Sodium hydrosulphide
 Citric acid
 Acetic acid
 Sodium acetate

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 Salt (Na2Co3)
 STPP (Na5P3010)
 RUCO RT PDR
 SUPER MO MIT conc.
 Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2)
Dyes:
 Organic dyes
 Jay
 Archroma
 Nora
 Dye stuff
 Huntsman
*Maximum reactive dyes are lower in cost
*(UV) dispersed dyes are higher in cost
Waste disposal in storage:
Green:
 Fabric cut piece
 Organic Recycled dry waste
 Bio-degradable
 Plant issues
Blue:
 Card boards
Disposal of recycled dry
 Broken glass
waste
 Papers
 Cartoons boards
Red:
 Plastic, Plastic bags and metal containers & bottles.
 Packaging materials, Pens, binders or CD waste and Tissues

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 PRINTING UNIT
In Teejay India print unit is small and it manufactures print fabrics on
the customer requirement.
After the dyeing the fabric sent to finishing process and it comes to
printing unit to proceed printing.
The major part of printing unit is CAD room. It separates the colours
and improves the design to prepare the print screen meshes by
engraving machine.
Only pigment dyes are used in the printing unit. For the printing
purpose all types of colours are prepared earlier in paste form. It has
majorly two print methods, they are pigment super soft and pigment
discharges.
First 3 meters of sample has printed and sent to the color team to get
approval. If it’s approved the bulk production has started.
The fabric has placed in the rotary printing machines which is fixed
particular specifications and dye paste are inserted to each rotary
screen mesh. The screen mesh rotates and print the dye paste on
fabric. It print 3 types of prints they are Typography, Geometrical and
Glitter prints.
Machines in Printing Unit:
 2 Stork rotary printing machines
 1 Stork laser engraving machine
 1 Streamer and 1 Baker
 AVA Software (Latest technology for colour separation and
designing )
Capacity:
 Colour separation on AVA software has minimum capacity of 150
designs per month.
 Maximum repeat height is 64 cm per rotary scale.

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 Stork laser engraving machine has capacity of 18 per day.
 The maximum number of colour per print is 10.
 The maximum print width is 70 inches.
Colour range:
The colour range varies like
 Neon colour range
 Pigment colour range
 Discharge colour range
Other printing methods:
 Burnout prints
 Viscose fabric prints
These prints specially printed on the customer requirement.

Figure 8: Rotary printing machine

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 FINISHING UNIT

After the dyeing the fabric is sent to the finishing process.

Slitter:

To spread and open rope form fabric that is unloaded from dyeing
machine. Slit open and spread tubular fabric.

Relax Dryer:

The relax dryer dries the wet fabrics and does the softening of fabrics
that have to be compacted. During the process, the fabric will get
relaxed by running on the conveyor belt and this helps to achieve
better shrinkage.

Stenter:

A Stenter is a fabric transport device for bringing dimensional stability

to the fabric. This machine grasps fabric at both selvages
simultaneously and continuously and carries it from one point to
another. Two endless chains equipped with either clips or pins grasp
the selvages and move in a proper way, carrying the fabric between
them. The width between the two chains can be automatically
adjusted by means of motor arrangements. A stenter is the best
method of handling fabrics that require precise width control.

The following activities are carried out in stenter machine:

 Application of finishing chemicals.

 Drying and stretching

 Curing

 Heat setting

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The flow of the fabric through these has been shown.

Figure 9: Stenter machine

The stenter works only on open width fabrics and hence is preceded
by Corino automatic cutting machine where the fabric is cut and
squeezed.

Compaction:

Compactor is important machine in knit fabric finishing process. This

was done in only 100% cotton fabrics. There are a lot of technical work

Which are done by compactor machine. The works are done by

compactor machine. The works are done by compactor machine are
pointed out below:

 GSM control of the knitted fabric. For high GSM, overfeed is

increased and fabric width is decreased. For low GSM, overfeed is
decreased and fabric width is increased.

 Control shrinkage

 Twisting control

 Increase smoothness of fabric

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Raising:

This treatment is done to terry fabric to convert it into fleece. The

fabric surface is raised by passing it through multiple rollers which
have spikes in them, which raised the terry fabric and made it fleece.

Purpose:

 Increase the thickness of the fabric

 Giving better hand feel

Sueding:

The Sueding machine provides mechanical treatment to the fabric by

rubbing the fabric surface with micro fibre or sanding to get a smooth
feeling to the fabric with variable levels.

Purpose:

 Good hand feel

 Resistant to temperature

Machines in unit:

 7 Stenter machines

 2 Compactor machines

 1 Relax dryer

 1 Raising machine

 2 Sueding machines

 5 Slitter machines

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 QUALITY ASSURANCE

In quality assurance they are 5 teams to make quality control over the
industry. They are

1. Greige fabric inspection

2. Color team

3. Testing lab

4. Final fabric inspection

5. Customer care team

Greige fabric inspection:

After the production of the greige fabric, the fabric sent to the
inspection to inspect that the fabric in 4 point system, to have
required quality and to ensure that the fabric has no defects in it. If
defects in fabric crossed the defect limits as fixed in 4 point system,
the fabric has rejected.

Common defects in greige fabric:

1. Lycra tight

2. Lycra barray

3. Belt barray

4. Stuck stitch

5. Tuck line

6. Drop stitch

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7. Needle line

8. Fly cotton

9. Needle breakage

10. Broken hole

11. Lycra breakage

12. Oil drop

13. Yarn breakage

*These defects can reduce by taken preventions.

COLOUR TEAM:
Colour team comes under dyeing quality checking which it is also
called as third inspection, it is inspects dyeing samples and printing
samples.
Dyeing sample:
After the completion of the first bulk (app. 200kgs), sample is sent to
the colour team for inspection
Before finish:
Colour team checks the sample colour with standards if the colour is
accepted then it is sent to the finishing department if not the it is sent
for re-dyeing
After finish:
In finishing department, the fabric gets more soften than the fabric
after dyeing, for re-inspection the sample is sent to the customer for
the colour approval.

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If the customer approves then the production starts but after each
bulk dyeing the samples are sent to the colour team for colour
approval and also like wise after finish sample also sent to the colour
team for approval
If the customer rejects the colour of the first bulk then again re-dyeing
is started
In Colour Team the colour team checks the colour by using
spectrometer. In the spectrometer first they will upload the standard
colour so that spectrometer captures the colour readings and by those
reading they approve the bulk colour
The values are like
DE (Dark):
DE>1 --- fail
DE~0.99-0.75 --- warm
DE<1 --- pass
DL (Light):
Light (+) = thinner (terminology name)
Dark (-) = fuller (terminology name)
DC (Chroma):
Saturated (+) = Brighten
Un-Saturated (-) = Flatter
DH (Hue):
Red – Green
Blue – Yellow (opposites cannot be commented but inter mix colours
can be commented)

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 YELLOW

GREEN RED

BLUE
This is the quadrant representation used for acceptance level of the
colour it also has the standard as the centre and depending on the lab
dip is mark and the dip zone becomes the approval area (acceptance
zone)
 In dyeing first approval is known as lab dip.
 In colour team first approval is known as strike off.
Printing:
In the printing the process flow is same as the dyeing but here 4 times
it is inspected printing
Before finish:
After the pigment is printed on the fabric the sample is sent to the
color team for print inspection, if the print is in the customer
acceptance level then it is approved and sent to the finishing
After finish:
If the print is accepted then it is sent to bake machine to dry and add
little finish to it and again sent to the colour team for print inspection,
if there is no colour variations after bake then it is sent to the finishing
department

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Before finish:
The colour is under the light source which is requested by the
customer and if there are any touch ups required then it is sent to next
department
After finish:
It is final inspection before the bulk moves to the finishing
department, they check the background colour, print, and pigment
colour change if and. If everything alright then the bulk is approved
after printing if not, they send it for re-printing.
*Marl yarn fabric is not sent to dyeing but it is pre-treated and sent to
soaping afterwards it is sent for inspection of the colour with
standards.
Testing lab:
In testing lab, the team test the fabrics and yarn.
The tests done to the fabric to ensure that it has required shrinkage,
stretch recovery, bursting, curling, colour fastness and pilling. These
tests done with help of machines like bursting machine, tensile testing
machine and GSM cutters.
The tests done to the yarn for ensure that it has required yarn count,
twist, yarn strength, appearance and moisture. These tests done to
the yarn with the help of machines like yarn grading machine, twist
tester machine and abrasion machine.
Machines in testing lab:
1. Yarn grading machine
2. Twist tester machine
3. Gsm cutter
4. Wrap wheel machine
5. Bursting machine
6. Mullen tester

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7. AATCC Random pilling tester
8. Tensile testing machine
9. Abrasion machine
10. Crock machine
11. Analytical balance
Final fabric inspection:
After the finishing process completed the fabric taken to final fabric
inspection. The fabric is inspected in the 4 point system, to have
required quality and to ensure that the fabric has no defects in it.

If defects in fabric crossed the defect limits as fixed in 4 point system,

the fabric has rejected. In final inspection, it inspects dyeing and print
defects also.

Figure 10: 4 Point system machine

Customer care:

It helps the customer to inspect the fabric in the industry. The industry
provides 4 point system to the customer inspect the fabric in the
industry before exporting.

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 EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT

Industrial waste water treatment covers the mechanisms and

processes used to treat waters that have been contaminated in some
way by anthropogenic industrial or commercial activities prior to its
release into the environment or its re-use.

There are three treatments:

1. Primary treatment 2. Secondary treatment 3. Tertiary treatment

There are two methods which have been described below:

1. Chemical method:

In this method a chemical dose of ferrous (pH2) is used to control

and lime is used to maintain the pH. Polyelectrolyte is used to bind
the sludge, which settles it down in the flash mixer.

2. Biological method:

In this method bacteria growth is promoted in aeration tank

according to the BOD/COD parameters. The bacteria consume all
the waste and decompose it.

Process flow of ETP:

Storage tank  Mixing & cooing  Neutralization  Chemical

Coagulation  Biological Oxidation tank  Sedimentation &
separation of sludge Filtration  Discharge to drain.

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 CONCLUSION

We learnt about the flow process sequence of every step from yarn
to fabric production and packaging. We were introduced to the
technical terminologies and details about all the process. The
inspection and quality assurance was very fascinating. We observed
the Human Resource Management which was efficient and worker
friendly. We noted that the theoretical knowledge given to us and
the working in the factory has many difference as it is affected by
many physical details. It was a very knowledgeable and interesting
experience which will help us in our future endeavors.

NATIONAL INSTITUE OF FASHION TECHNOGY, HYDERABAD 40

 REFERENCES

https://www.textileschool.com/345/dyening-methods-of-textile-
dyeing/

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/01/classification-of-
textile-dyeing.html

https://www.britannica.com/topic/textile/printing

https://prezi.com/pu6pijf5fm3h/fiber-dyeing/

https://www.textileweb.com/doc/knitted-fabric-inspection

http://www.sdlatlas.com/product/167/Crockmeter--Rubbing-
Fastness-Tester

https://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2012/09/importance-of-
quality-control-in.html

http://textilelearner.blogspot.in/2013/01/compactor-machine-
function-of-compactor.html

http://www,fiber2fashion.com/industry-article/7111/soft-flow-
dyeing-machine

http://www.teejay.com/about-teejay/teejay-india

https://www.uster.com/fileadmin/customer/Knowledge/Textile_
Know_How/Yarn_testing/U_LabSystems_Improved_analysis_of_y
arns.pdf

Fundamentals of Advances in Knitting Technology, Sadhan Chandra

Knitting Technology, DB Ajgaonkar

BOOK: Textile process – NIIR BOARD

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