Table of Contents

7 15
3 Stress and Skin Aging
by Paolo U. Giacomoni, PhD

8 Cannabidiol and Skin Care

by Paolo U. Giacomoni, PhD

13 Eat This, Not That!

by Melissa Meisel • Associate Editor

18 Pretty Smart
by Christine Esposito • Associate Editor

24 Formulary
Skin care ideas from DSM/Centerchem

27 Formulating with Hyauloronic Acid

by Navin M. Geria

2 • happi happi.com August 2019

Feature Headline
Feature Deck
First Last • Title
Stress and Skin Aging
It’s as clear as the dark circles around your eyes—
stress accelerates the visible signs of aging.
By Paolo U. Giacomoni, PhD • Insight Analysis Consulting
P
sychological stress affects the wellbeing of the body and,
in particular, the skin. The visible consequences of psycho-
logical stress are, among others, puffy eyes, dark circles,
skin sagging and wrinkles and, in general, a global onset of the
visible signs of aging.
Aging can be considered to be the negation of“eternal youth.”
If this youth can be achieved by restoring molecular changes to
the status quo ante, as soon as they occur, then aging can be defined
as the accumulation of damage, where damage is understood as
molecular change.1 Damaging factors, called Factors of Aging,
provoke physiological responses that share common mechanistic
features, such as the onset of a self-maintained micro-inflamma-
tory response. As far as the skin is concerned, among the factors
of skin aging one finds UV radiation, infections, anoxia, stretch
and gravitational forces, hormonal imbalance, cigarette smoke,
cold, psychological stress, sleep deprivation, physical stress, gly-
cation, etc.2,3,4,5 This article describes possible mechanisms of psy-
chological stress in inducing a micro-inflammatory response and
therefore, in the acceleration of the process of skin aging.
August 2019 happi.com happi • 3
Bradykinin contributes to
inflammatory processes includ-
ing edema around the eyes.
Micro-Inflammatory Hypothesis
Ultraviolet (UV) radiation and other environmental aggressions
can damage skin cells. Damaged cells release prostaglandins and
leukotrienes. Mast cells bind these molecules and secrete his-
tamine and tumor necrosis factor a (TNF-a), thus inducing in
the endothelial cells of nearby capillary blood vessels, the pro-
duction and the mobilization of intercellular adhesion molecule
1 (I-CAM 1). Circulating immune cells (such as monocytes and
macrophages) bind I-CAM1, enter the dermis, and chemotac-
tically migrate to reach the damaged cell. In so doing, immune
cells release Reactive Oxygen Species and matrix metallo-prote-
ases and damage the extracellular matrix (ECM), thus accelerat-
ing the rate of damage formation and accumulation; that is, the
aging process itself. In the ECM, damaged elastic fibers are slowly
replaced by new, disorganized ones6 and, with chronic exposure
to solar radiation, the elastic properties of the skin are lost and
skin appears to be “aged.” Such a process is triggered by all the
known Factors of Skin Aging. One can therefore safely state that
the aging of skin is the consequence of the three oxidative steps
 STRESS AND SKIN AGING
subsequent to the synthesis and mobilization of I-CAM 1 within
the endothelium of cutaneous vessels:
1. Upon binding I-CAM 1, circulating cells release hydrogen
peroxide1 and endothelial cells allow monocytes and macro-
phages to perform diapedesis; that is, to cross the vascular wall.
2. In the extracellular matrix reactive oxygen species are re-
leased, together with specific matrix metallo-proteinases.
3. To destroy, engulf and remove damaged cells (or foreign
bacteria, or molds), inflammatory cells release H2O2.
In the course of this oxidative and proteolytic process, nearby
cells can be damaged and can therefore trigger the release of
prostaglandins and leukotrienes, which will be relayed by the se-
cretion of histamine and TNF-a from resident mast cells. These
molecules will then induce the synthesis and the mobilization
of I-CAM 1, thus perpetuating the inflammatory process. When
no damaged cells are responsible for the onset of the micro-in-
flammatory response, as it is the case for anoxia, the cir- culating
immune cells that have been recruited in the dermis do not fol-
low a chemotactic path. They digest, instead, the ECM and the
smooth muscles surrounding the blood vessels, thus weakening
their walls and provoking varicose veins and spider veins.The ac-
cumulation of oxidative and proteolytic damage experienced over
time by the extracellular matrix, together with the remodeling of
fibers in a disorganized mode, leads to skin aging.
How does psychological stress contribute to skin aging?
4 • happi happi.com August 2019
Psychological Stress
Typical clinical signs of psychological stress are puffy eyes (char-
acterized by edema) and dark circles (believed to be the conse-
quence of hemoglobin accumulation in the perivascular regions
because of red blood cells leaking across the capillary walls).
Winkles, another consequence of psychological stress, are the re-
sult of thin, stretched, sagging skin “pulled up” by a neuromuscu-
lar action. What mechanisms induced by psychological stress can
account for these clinical observations?
The skin is innervated by sensory nerves, which form synaps-
es with skin cells. Sensory neurons release neuro-peptides and
neuro-hormones (these molecules are called neuro-mediators
or neuromodulators), which control many biochemical processes
in the cells of the skin, such as keratinocytes, Langerhans cells,
mast cells, dermal microvascular endothelial cells, and infiltrating
leukocytes.
The release of neuromodulators is under the control of the
central nervous system; i.e., the brain, and can be impaired when
the brain is in conditions of duress and stress. The expression and
regulation of receptors for neuromodulators in a variety of skin
cells determine the cellular responses mediated by these neuro-
peptides and neuro-hormones.
Substance P and Calcitonin Gene Related Protein (CGRP)
are found in sensory cutaneous neurons and are released locally
in response to injury. They induce the so-called neurogenic in-
flammation8 resulting in wheal and flare thus contributing to the
Wrinkles: It’s not
you, it’s stress—and
UV damage, too!

Sleep deprivation is another consequence of psychological stress.
acceleration of skin aging. Serotonin can activate neuronal cells
to release CGRP and endothelial cells to secrete NO.9 Serotonin
receptor agonists block neurogenic inflammation by inhibiting
the release of substance P and CGRP from peptidergic afferents.10
There is strong evidence that cell adhesion molecules play a ma-
jor role in neurogenic inflammation and the role of substance P
and CGRP in increasing the expression of I-CAM 1 is well estab-
lished.8 This could account for the onset of a micro-inflammatory
response and for the consequent degradation of elastic fiber and
appearance of sagging skin.
Cutaneous injections of Vasoactive Intestinal Peptide (VIP)
increase local blood flow in a dose-dependent manner, induce a
wheal-and-flare reaction, and increase pruritus. The pro-inflam-
matory activity of VIP in human skin is also mediated by a direct
action on inflammatory mediators; the addition of VIP to human
keratinocytes in culture increases in the intracellular expressions
of pro-inflammatory cytokines and thus can be thought as an ac-
celerator of the rate of skin aging. This inflammatory reaction in
the absence of damaged cells in the tissue, might account for the
digestion of the smooth muscle surrounding the blood vessels,
the consequent damage of the capillary walls and the leakage of
red blood cells thus contributing to the onset of dark circles.
Bradykinin (BK) and other kinins are synthetized in the brain
and also at sites of tissue injury and contribute to inflammatory
processes including edema, vasodilatation and pain. This might
account for edema in puffy eyes.
BK receptors have been found on vascular endothelial cells,
smooth muscles, mast cells and sensory neurons. In the case of
sensory nerve activation, BK causes the release of pro-inflam-
matory peptides including Substance P and CGRP. Thus, the re-
sponse to BK is mediated indirectly by neuropeptides including
substance P and CGRP and BK can also be considered to be a
factor of skin aging.
Sleep Deprivation
A lifestyle factor known to promote apparent skin fatigue
August 2019 happi.com happi • 5
STRESS AND SKIN AGING
and perhaps to accelerate aging, and which has been proven
to trigger inflammatory responses in healthy individuals,
is sleep deprivation, another consequence of psychologi-
cal stress. Sleep deprivation is associated with poor qual-
ity of life, mood changes, higher psychological stress levels
and increased susceptibility to a variety of diseases (notably
cardiovascular disease). Sleep deprivation increases serum
concentrations of pro-inflammatory cytokines, circulating
leukocytes, and soluble cell adhesion molecules. In a study
where volunteers were subjected to both seven days of
semi-continuous strenuous exercise and sleep deprivation (1
hour/night), plasma levels of IL-6, TNF-a, and IL-1a were
increased and isolated leukocytes showed enhanced release
of these pro-inflammatory markers when stimulated with
LPS.11 Similar results were obtained by numerous other in-
vestigators examining sleep deprivation alone, although se-
vere sleep deprivation protocols often keep subjects awake
for extended periods of time with no sleep at all. In these
studies, sleep is typically monitored using polysomnography
and sleep quality is usually assessed by subjective reports
using the Pittsburgh Sleep Quality Index (PSQI). Results
from these studies reveal that in addition to the pro-inflam-
matory cytokines, increased plasma levels of I-CAM 1 and
E-selectin, endothelin-1, and PGE2 were observed in healthy
individuals.
Results from these studies are often complicated by the
fact that circadian fluctuations in levels of pro-inflamma-
tory cytokines are known to exist. However, several stud-
ies have taken these circadian variations into account and
reached the same conclusions. In the case of IL-6, for ex-
ample, sleep deprivation leads to daytime over-secretion
and nighttime under-secretion. In general, similar pro-
inflammatory changes are reported in both young and
old subjects, although it is worth considering that chronic
sleep impairment can contribute to age-related changes in
inflammatory responses.12
 STRESS AND SKIN AGING
Conclusion
The micro-inflammatory hypothesis of skin aging was originally
proposed as a mechanistic model.2-4 The original model showed
that skin aging is accelerated by any agents or treatments able to
induce the synthesis and mobilization of I-CAM 1 in endothe-
lial cells. Most currently, the analysis of other factors proven to
induce the synthesis and the mobilization of I-CAM 1 in endo-
thelial cells and/or in circulating leukocytes indicated that these
factors can be considered to be accelerators of skin aging.
Neuropeptides and neuro-hormones have been reported to
trigger inflammatory pathways in skin (neurogenic inflamma-
tion). Since neuro-mediators can be released under psychological
duress or stress, they offer a plausible mechanism to understand
the effect of psychological stress on skin, such as puffy eyes, dark
circles and sagging skin, and they appear, therefore, to belong to
the set of the so-called factors of skin aging. •
References
1. Giacomoni PU. Ageing and cellular defence mechanisms. In: Franceschi C,
Crepaldi G, Cristofalo VJ, Vijg J (eds) Ageing and Cellular Defence Mechanisms, Ann
N Y Acad Sci 1992; 663 pp 1–3.
2. Giacomoni PU, D’ Alessio P. Skin ageing: the relevance of antioxidants.
In: Rattan SIS, Toussaint O (eds) Molecular Gerontology: Research Status and
Strategies. New York: Plenum Press, 1996, pp 177–192
3. Giacomoni PU, Rein G. Factors of skin aging share common mechanisms.
6 • happi happi.com August 2019
The old adage remains true—
get your beauty sleep!
Biogerontology. 2001;2:219–229
4. Giacomoni PU, Rein G. A mechanistic model for the aging of human skin.
Micron. 2004;35:179–184
5. Giacomoni PU and Rein G Skin Aging: A Generalization of the
Microinflammatory Hypothesis. Textbook of Aging Skin (M Farage, KW Miller H
Maibach Eds) Springer, 2017, pages 1289-1298
6. Wlaschek M, Schneider LA, Kohn M, Nüßeler E, Treiber N, Scharffetter-
Kochanek K. Aging after solar radiation. In: Giacomoni PU (ed) Biophysical
and Physiological Effects of Solar Radiation on Human Skin. Cambridge: RSC
Publishing, 2007, pp 191–210.
7. Gilchrest B. Aging of skin. In: Fitzpatrick TB, Zur Hausen A, Wolff K, Freedberg
IM, Austen KF (eds) Dermatology in General Medicine. New York: McGraw-Hill,
1993, pp 150–157.
8. Björklund H, Dalsgaard CJ, Jonsson CE, Hermansson A. Sensory and auto-
nomic innervation of non-hairy and hairy human skin. An immunohistochemical
study. Cell Tissue Res. 1986;243:51–57
9. Ahn AH, Basbaur AI. Tissue injury regulates serotonin 1D receptor expres-
sion: implications for the control of migraine and inflammatory pain. J Neurosci.
2006;26:8332-8338.
10. Buzzi MG, Carter WB, Shimizu T, Heath H, 3rd, Moskowitz MA.
Dihydroergotamine and sumatriptan attenuate levels of CGRP in plasma in rat
superior sagittal sinus during electrical stimulation of the trigeminal ganglion.
Neuropharmacology 1991;30:1193–1200.
11. Frey DJ, Fleshner M, Wright KP Jr. The effect of 40 hours of total sleep de-
privation on inflammatory markers in healthy young adults. Brain Behav Immun.
2007;21:1050–1057.
12. Wyss-Coray T, Rogers J. Inflammation in Alzheimer disease-A brief Review
The Art
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Cannabidiol and Skin Care

Interest has never been higher for this natural derivative of hemp. It shows promise
as an anti-inflammatory, but some companies are promoting CBD as a moisturizer
and wrinkle-reducer, too.
By Paolo U. Giacomoni, PhD • Insight Analysis Consulting

C
annabidiol (CBD) is the new darling of the personal care
industry, marketing executives sing its praises and manu-
facturers produce creams, lotions and serums that all con-
tain CBD. The momentum originates from the discussions about
the medical use of the psychotropic component of marijuana
smoke as well as from the possibility of the legalization of its use,
but no one is quite sure about the efficacy or the mode of action
of CBD. One thing is certain, that the use of formulas containing
psychotropic drugs will never be allowed, not because of the dan-
ger that the drug crosses the epidermis, enters the blood vessels
and then crosses the blood-brain-barrier (BBB), but to avoid the
inhalation, or the injection or the ingestion, accidental or not, of
the cream containing it.
Substances in the blood do reach the brain or they don’t, based
on their ability to cross the hemato-encephalic barrier (also called
blood brain barrier). Aniline does not cross the BBB, whereas caf-
feine, ethanol and heroin, to name just a few, do cross the BBB
and bind to, or modulate the action of, receptors committed to
biochemical signalling in the brain. By binding to, or by compet-
ing agonistically or antagonistically for those receptors, caffeine,
ethanol and heroin exert their psychotropic action.
The simplest, most direct way to introduce a substance into
the blood is to breathe vapors or smoke containing it. This is the
most common route of administration for tetra hydro cannabinol
(THC), the psychotropic drug in marijuana and in other plants of
the genus Cannabis. The best known of these plants is perhaps
Cannabis sativa, also known as hemp, although this term is often
used to refer only to varieties of Cannabis cultivated for non-drug
use. Once in the blood, THC will bind to its receptors in the brain
and in other tissues.
Cannabinoid receptors are able to bind endo-cannabinoids;
that is, molecules produced by the mammillary body in the
brain, as well as plant cannabinoids or phyto-cannabinoids, such
as cannabidiol itself, as well as synthetic cannabinoids. There
are two subtypes of cannabinoid receptors, called CB1 located
in the brain and CB2 located on macrophages and B-cells, on

8 • happi happi.com August 2019

 CBD & SKIN CARE

hematopoietic cells and on keratinocytes as well as on periph- CBD is commonly used to address anxiety, and for patients who
eral nerve terminals. The anatomical location of CB2 receptors suffer through the misery of insomnia, studies suggest that CBD
could suggest that molecules able to form complexes with CB2 may help with both falling asleep and staying asleep.
receptors might affect the skin, perhaps by modulating wheal- Animal studies seem to indicate that topical application of
and-flare inflammatory reactions and by reducing the pain and CBD helps reduce pain and inflammation due to arthritis. The
discomfort associated with diverse skin conditions. mechanism of action against inflammatory and neuropathic pain
Cannabis plants have been employed for thousands of years, in rats, of cannabidiol taken by the general route, has been elu-
for uses as diverse as religious rituals, medical treatment to reduce cidated2 and human studies are currently being performed. As of
nausea during chemotherapy, recreational scopes or the prepara- today, though, results obtained by administering CBD to human
tion of paper or cordage. Cannabis plants contain hundreds of volunteers targeting physiological or psychological endpoints
components, including cannabidiol (CBD), which is being con- (including cortisol levels, alertness, dizziness, confusion, anxiety
sidered for potential applications in skin care. Cannabidiol can and psychosis) indicate that the observed effects of CBD were not
enter the body in multiple ways, including by topical applications. statistically significant.3
It may be supplied as CBD oil containing only CBD as the ac-
tive ingredient; it does not have the same psychotropic activity as
THC. It is common knowledge that CBD is one of the hundred Cannabis Oil in Skin Care
or so identified cannabinoids and makes up to 40% of the plant’s Cannabinoids are of extreme interest to skin care product for-
extract. As of today, scientists are exploring the effects of CBD on mulators, and cannabidiol is perhaps the most interesting com-
anxiety, cognition, and pain and its mechanisms of action are still pound of them all. One of the reasons is that cannabidiol is a
undetermined. cannabinoid that lacks the psychoactive properties of THC and
therefore is not subject to the heavy legislation for its use in skin
care; for instance, unlike THC, it does not elevate the concentra-
Clinical Effects of Cannabis Oil tion of β-endorphins in the plasma and in the hypothalamus.
According to Peter Grinspoon, an internist at Massachusetts Cannabidiol is marketed to consumers, sometimes too op-
General Hospital and an instructor at Harvard Medical School, timistically, as being anti-inflammatory, analgesic, hydrating,
the strongest evidence for the effectiveness of CBD origi- moisturizing and wrinkle-reducing. Others claim it to be a cure
nates from the results obtained in treating some of the cruelest for skin aging, acne, eczema, psoriasis and pruritus. However, as
childhood epilepsy syndromes, such as Dravet Syndrome and of today, current data regarding its safety and efficacy remains
Lennox-Gastaut Syndrome (LGS).1 These syndromes typically limited. And yet, there is a plausible mechanism for cannabidiol
don’t respond to anti-seizure medications and yet it was found to have positive effects on skin, and there are documented con-
in numerous studies, that the administration of CBD reduced the sumer benefits for ointments containing cannabis oil.
number of seizures and, in some cases, stopped them altogether. Twenty patients with atopic dermatitis or psoriasis were in-
structed to self-administer a CBD-
containing ointment twice a day for
three months. Their skin was evalu-
ated for hydration, transepidermal
water loss and elasticity, and clinical
questionnaires were implemented re-
lating to the severity of atopic dermati-
tis (SCORAD) and of psoriasis (PASI).
The study was supported by photo-
graphic data and investigators’ clini-
cal assessment. The results show that
topical treatment with CBD-enriched
ointment significantly improves the
conditions of the skin, the symptoms
and also the PASI index score. No ir-
ritant or allergic reactions were docu-
mented during the period treatment. 4
Other studies addressed sebum
and acne. It was observed that CBD
Hemp, and its cannabidiol by-product, is capturing the attention of researchers in the cosmetics industry. has lipo-static, anti-proliferative and

August 2019 happi.com happi • 9

 CBD & SKIN CARE
anti-inflammatory effects. CBD has, therefore, potential as a
promising therapeutic agent for the treatment of acne vulgar-
is.5 In another study 3% cannabis seed extract was added to a
base and the base alone was used as control.6 The control and
the cannabis extract-containing base were applied to the half
face of male volunteers twice a day for 12 weeks. Measurements
demonstrated that the level of sebum in the cheeks treated with
base plus 3% Cannabis seeds extract was statistically significant-
ly (p<0.05) lower compared with the sebum level in the cheeks
treated with the base-only control.
Another cosmetically interesting effect of cannabidiol is that
it increases tyrosinase activity and melanin content in cultured
human melanocytes.7 Although experiments with cultured hu-
man melanocytes are often misleading when it comes to de-
creasing the intensity of pigmentation, the observed increase of
tyrosinase activity and accumulation of pigment might indicate
that CBD might exert an action on pigment production; after all,
melanocytes originate in the neural crest!
So, if we take these results altogether, we see that there is a
great potential of utilization of cannabis oil in skin care. As a mat-
ter of fact, the topical use of CBD can decrease skin inflammation
and skin discomfort, as well as reactions such as pruritus, a form
10 • happi happi.com August 2019
It’s not your
mother’s moistur-
izer. CBD may have
applications in anti-
wrinkle creams.
of severe skin itching affecting aged skin, thus offering a possible
new approach for anti-aging products. The sebo-static effect of
CBD could make it the molecule of choice when trying to opti-
mize anti-acne treatments. And the suggested pro-pigmenting
effects might be of interest for consumers trying to protect their
skin with sunscreens against ultraviolet radiation but who still
wish to acquire the beautiful suntan associated to outdoor activ-
ity and vacation time.
Challenge for the Future
Should cannabidiol become a major ingredient for skin care for-
mulators, its production by extraction will entail the possibility
of contamination with psychotropic drug, hence the necessity
to introduce purification steps. This will provoke an increase in
production cost also because of the expenses associated to the
extensive analytical efforts needed to show that the preparation
actually meets the specifications. In addition, botanical extracts
are subject to seasonal variability that may affect the final content
of the actives that are desired. In this instance, plant cell cultures
could represent a reliable and standardized system of metabolites
production, avoiding the variability associated to canonical plant

CVS began offering hemp and CBD skin care formulas earlier this year. Photo:
Kevin McGovern / Shutterstock.com.
extracts. Cannabis sativa cells can be propagated in the labora-
tory, under controlled conditions and in absence of pesticides.
The cultivation of cannabis is severely regulated in many coun-
tries; therefore, alternative in vitro growth techniques are receiv-
ing a lot of attention. The in vitro cultivation of cannabis is also
an advantageous way to preserve cultivars/clones with specific
metabolite signatures.
As reported in the literature, 8 cannabis stem cells do not
produce CBD in relevant quantities, but do contain many other
interesting metabolites. This prompted one to say that the canna-
bis is “the plant of thousand and one molecules.” 8 In discussing
the possibility to grow plant cells for the purpose of extracting
interesting chemicals, this paper points out that cannabis callus
cultures are not able to produce any cannabinoids, irrespective
of the chemotypes (drug-, hybrid-, or fiber-type) used as mother
plants or growth regulators used in the culture medium. This
paper does underscore that plant cell suspension cultures of-
fer important advantages, as they can be transformed and then
cultivated in bioreactors for the production of useful metabolites.
The engineering of hemp cells in culture with genes involved in
specific metabolic pathways can offer the possibility of enhancing
the production of important classes of metabolites such as can-
nabinoids but also of others with potential pharmacological use.
Unfortunately, Cannabis sativa is a notorious recalcitrant plant to
transformation. Paolo Giacomoni, PhD is founder and president of Insight Analysis Consulting. He
This notwithstanding, it is theoretically conceivable that the
production of cannabinoids in cannabis cell suspension cultures
can be increased via the expression of transcription factors in-
volved in cannabis gland biochemistry. The expression of genes
involved in the cannabinoid biosynthetic pathway in cell suspen-
sion cultures of plants other than cannabis represents an interest-
ing alternative for the scalable production of cannabinoids.
August 2019 happi.com happi • 11
CBD & SKIN CARE
Conclusion
Circumstantial evidences point to a great potential and to a di-
versity of applications of cannabidiol (CBD or cannabis oil) in
skin care. Efficacy data are not numerous and only a few of them
are robust. As of today, the legislators/regulators have only par-
tially expressed their feelings about extracts from plants contain-
ing psychotropic agents.
The technology to transform cannabis cells to produce can-
nabidiol only is not yet set up. Are the conditions mature for
introducing CBD in the skin care market? Perhaps not yet, and
excessive haste may prove catastrophic. The pace of research is
very quick, though, and excessive prudence may prove fatal. My
suggestion is that one generates safety and efficacy data in dif-
ferent formulations for different applications, and gets into the
starting blocks ready to sprint when the starting gun is fired. •
References
1. Grinspoon P (2018) Cannabidiol (CBD)-What we know and what we don’t.
Harvard Health Publishing, June 5, 2019
2. Xiong W et al (2012) Cannabinoids suppress inflammatory and neuropathic
pain by targeting b3 glycine receptors. J Exp Med 209 : 1121-1134
3. Iffland K, Grotenhermen F (2017) Un update on safety and side effects of
Cannabidiol: A Review of Clinical Data and Relevant Animal Studies. Cannabis and
Cannabinoid Res. 2 : 139-154
4. Palmieri B et al (2019) A therapeutic effect of CBD-enriched ointment in
inflammatory skin diseases and cutaneous scars”. Clin Ter.170(2): e93-e99. doi:
10.7417/CT.2019.2116.
5. Olah et al, (2014) Cannabidiol exerts sebostatic and anti-inflammatory effects
on human sebocytes J Clin Invest.;124 : 3713-3724
6. Ali A, Akhtar N (2015) The safety and efficacy of 3% Cannabis seed extract
cream for reduction of human cheek sebum and erythema content. Pak J Pharmacol
28 : 1389-1395
7. Hwang YS et al (2017) Cannabidiol upregulates melanogenesis through CB1
dependent pathway by activating p38 MAPK and p24/44 MAPK. Chem Biol Interact
273 : 107-114
8. Andre CM et al (2016) Cannabis sativa: The Plant of the Thousand and One
Molecules. Front Plant Sci 7 : 19
About the Author
acts as an independent consultant to the skin care industry. He served as executive
director of research at Estée Lauder and was head of the department of biology with
L’Oréal. He has built a record of achievements through research on DNA damage
and metabolic impairment induced by UV radiation as well as on the positive effects
of vitamins and antioxidants. He has authored more than 100 peer-reviewed pub-
lications and has more than 20 patents. He may be reached via email: paologiac@
gmail.com or phone: 516-769-6904.
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Eat This, Not That!
More personal care brands are stepping into the wellness from within category to
improve the appearance of hair, skin and nails.
By Melissa Meisel • Associate Editor
T
hanks to an influx of players like Moon Juice, The Beauty
Chef and RMS Beauty, consumers are finding ingestible
beauty promises easier to swallow. In fact, Mintel found
nearly half of US women aged 18-34 have tried an oral supple-
ment designed to enhance their appearance. No wonder, then,
that Mintel identified wellness as one of the key consumer trends
impacting industries and markets around the world for 2019.
“We’re seeing Ayurvedic-inspired ingredients and adapto-
gens, botanical flavors and cannabidiol, or CBD, appearing in
more packaged foods and drinks,” explained Melanie Zanoza
Bartelme, global food analyst at Mintel.
It is all part of the ever-growing, always-evolving wellness
industry which, according to some estimates, is valued at a
whopping $4.2 trillion. According to Candace Corlett, president
of WSL Strategic Retail, consumers are spending money to stay
healthier. In a recent How America Shops survey, WSL found that
35% of shoppers are spending more to stay well today than they
did a year ago—and among Millennials and Generation Z, that
August 2019 happi.com happi • 13
The Beauty Chef offers
portable wellness solutions
for those on the go.
percentage rises to 40% and 45%, respectively. Further, WSL says
31% of shoppers buy products that make them look healthier.
As interest in wellness grows on Main Street, there has been
growing interest on Wall Street, too. Hair wellness company
Nutrafol recently closed a $35 million Series B round financing
led by the Growth Fund of L Catterton with participation from
existing investor Unilever Ventures. With this latest funding, the
company says it will further scale its personalized system, which
features new targeted boosters that address deficiencies and im-
balances including menopause, stress and gut health.
Drink It In
According to Beauty Drinks Market—Growth, Trends
and Forecast (2019-2024), a new report available from
ResearchAndMarkets.com, the beauty drinks market is forecast
to reach $4.4 billion by 2024, representing a CAGR of 11.9%
during the forecast period. Among all the ingestible and topical
 INGESTIBLE BEAUTY
Vital Proteins Zen Collagen Shot is infused with notes of chamomile and cit-
rus, seven grams of collagen peptides, magnesium and L-theanine to support
relaxation and mental alertness.
combination products, within the industry, beauty drinks are
proving to be a highly palatable option. Collagen is dominating
the beauty drinks market, while the coenzyme segment rep-
resented the fastest-growing ingredient category. Both report-
edly provide anti-aging and skin enhancement properties.
For example, beauty brand Vital Proteins recently rolled
out Collagen Waters to improve hair, skin and nails in just a
few weeks, according to the company. Collagen Water is Vital
Proteins first ready-to-drink product that offers 10 grams of
proprietary collagen peptides, three grams of sugar or less
(from real fruit juice) and “reverse osmosis” water to help us-
ers hit refresh on their morning routine, cool down after a
much-needed workout session, or grab on-the-go anytime,
anywhere. It is available in five different flavors including
Original, Blackberry Hibiscus, Lemon Ginger, Blueberry Mint
and Strawberry Lemon.
Also, new at Vital Proteins is the Zen Collagen Shot, which
is infused with notes of chamomile and citrus, and seven grams
of collagen peptides, magnesium and L-theanine to support
relaxation and mental alertness. L-theanine is an amino acid
that is known for promoting relaxation, which is why 200mg of
L-theanine is infused into the Zen Collagen Shot. L-theanine
is a popular ingredient used for stress and anxiety by Taylor
Swift and other celebrities, according to the company.
“Consumers are demanding ‘clean’ ingestible beauty prod-
ucts that align with their dietary preferences. Subscribing to a
‘food-as wellness’ philosophy, individuals are seeking ingest-
ible beauty products that celebrate whole foods and are free
of artificial ingredients,” insisted Jenn Randazzo, MS, RD, CLT,
senior education manager of Vital Proteins, Lafayette, CA.
“There is also an unprecedented interest in ingestible beauty
14 • happi happi.com August 2019
Nature’s Bounty ClearComplexion contains zinc to help support a clearer
complextion for consumers with non-cystic acne, while manganese is said to
work with the body’s enzymes for antioxidant support.
products that boast a bevy of functional foods or ingredients.
Herbs, botanicals, adaptogens and collagen are often now the
cornerstone of ingestible beauty products, a formulation cre-
ated specifically for those seeking the benefits of functional
ingredients.”
New to Market
The ingestible beauty category is indeed brimming with innova-
tions. Consider Hush & Hush’s TimeCapsule. Billed as an age-
defending and youth-preserving dietary supplement, it contains
UV protectors like Polypodium leucotomos root. When paired
with a topical sunblock, TimeCapsule adds an extra layer of pro-
tection from the inside out, according to the company.
This plastic-surgeon formulated luxury nutraceutical line
fuels the body with something called “Clean Clinical Vitamins,”
which were developed using cellular regenerative and nutri-
tional research, according to company executives. Created by Dr.
Marc Ronert and his wife, Janna (CEO of Image Skincare), Hush
& Hush is said to instill principles of healthy living coupled with
evidence-based methodologies to create the perfect product line
for the mind, body and soul.
Also from Hush & Hush is MindYourMind, a solution for a
good night’s beauty rest. The melatonin-free, all-natural sleep
aid works through the night to give users a restful eight hours—
without any grogginess upon waking! Time-tested botanicals
and proven sleep promoters such as tryptophan, valerian root,
holy basil leaf and magnesium go to work to reduce stress and
mental clutter, helping consumer fall (and stay) asleep.
Upcoming launches from Hush & Hush include PlantYourDay,
a power-packed plant-based vegan protein powder formula that
 INGESTIBLE BEAUTY

promises to awaken senses and revitalize the body with a blend B2, B6 and C, and has been used for centuries to nourish and
of supergreens, superfoods, fiber, antioxidants and the brand’s revitalize the skin.
trademarked Clean Clinical Vitamins. Nature’s Bounty recently launched seven premium beauty
To improve hair wellness, Nutrafol’s line of multi-targeting supplements. According to the company, each gel is designed
nutraceuticals contain standardized ingredients that address the to address specific beauty needs, ranging from getting a good
key triggers of poor hair health including stress, DHT, free radi- night’s rest to healthy gums and teeth to supporting a clear,
cals, micro-inflammation and compromised nutrition. Nutrafol glowing complexion. An easy addition to any wellness routine,
Core for Women is formulated with ingredients like Marine the new range of beauty gels is an effective way to support
Collagen and Sensoril Ashwagandha (to name a few), that are beauty from the inside out.
shown to reduce stress and fatigue, improve sleep, improve the For example, ClearComplexion contains zinc to reduce non-
appearance of skin and nails, and promote overall feelings of cystic acne, while manganese contains antioxidants. Maintain
wellness for adult women with thinning hair, and for women smooth, even-toned skin with EvenBeauty, a combination of
looking to improve overall health. For women 40 and older, vitamin A retinyl palmitate and Lutemax 2020, a nourishing
Nutrafol Core for Women Plus is formulated with ingredients to formula derived from marigolds. This formula also helps sup-
improve hair growth for women experiencing menopause. port healthy aging for a radiant look, according to the company.
Nutrafol Core for Men supports observable hair growth Brighten and illuminate a dull complexion with GlowOn, filled
with key ingredients like 300mcg of biotin. Core for Men is also with Ceramosides, an extract from wheat seed that works to
formulated with ingredients like curcumin and tocotrienols to improved smoothness. The addition of resveratrol helps fight
strengthen and nourish hair from within. damaging free radicals.
“Ingestible beauty products offer benefits to the consumer GoodnightLovely contains melatonin to help improve sleep,
that sometimes topicals cannot. Our hair and our skin are both as well as hyaluronic acid to refresh and revitalize acomplexion
attributes of beauty and while surface care can be beneficial, overnight, according to the company. HappySmile is billed as
most of the work begins on the inside,” noted Tess Marshall, a powerful duo of CoQ-10 and vitamin B12 to promote oral
Nutrafol’s director of product science and innovations, New York. health from the inside out. Vitamin D supports healthy teeth
“By taking products with high quality, clinically tested ingredi- and gums for a beautiful smile. To hydrate dry skin from within,
ents known to support various pathways in the body, the con- the company offers Moisture Treat. Formulated with hyaluronic
sumer can effectively support their beauty from the root. acid and vitamin E, this beauty gel is ideal for those who suf-
“In addition, by taking ingestibles, the ingredients are ab- fer from occasional dry skin. Finally, SkinElasticity utilizes key
sorbed through our digestive tract and travel system wide so nutrients to support skin elasticity, including vitamin A and the
there are usually side benefits. These may include better sleep, proprietary ingredient FloraGlo, a lutein formula that serves as
more energy, better mood and less stress.
What is amazing, is that natural supple-
ments are becoming more and more com-
Nutrafol Core for Women is
mon. It’s likely a supplement contains formulated with ingredients like
botanicals, which are capable of having Marine Collagen and Sensoril
many benefits at once.” Ashwagandha to reduce stress
and fatigue.

More Innovations
The latest creation from Sephora is
Sephora Collection x Olly, a line of
gummy supplements, exclusive to the re-
tailer, that delivers nutrients for beauty
from the inside out. For example, the SC
x Olly Glowing Skin is a supplement that
features hyaluronic acid, a molecule that
helps plump, smooth and moisturize the
skin from within to help maintain a youth-
ful glow. Collagen, a naturally-occurring
protein, contributes to skin’s strength and
structure. The formula also contains sea
buckthorn, which contains vitamins A, B1,

August 2019 happi.com happi • 15

 INGESTIBLE BEAUTY

the skin’s nourishing defense According to Randazzo

to help promote elasticity. of Vital Proteins, consum-
The Beauty Chef recently ers will continue demanding
rolled out Well Spray Inner ingestible beauty products
Beauty Support—touted as that align with their dietary
a daily holistic health com- preferences.
panion. Formulated with the “Whole foods, low sugar
intention of cultivating an in- and functional ingredients
tegrated approach to health, will continue to drive con-
beauty and wellness, this sage sumer purchasing trends,”
and peppermint herbal spray she told Happi. “Collagen
is bio-fermented with probi- will continue to become more
otics to nurture the belly and mainstream as people be-
overall wellbeing. The formula come more familiar with its
contains selenium, a mineral various benefits. No longer
essential for normal immune an ingredient only recognized
function as well as the mainte- for its beauty benefits, we’ll
nance of healthy hair and nails see a spike in individuals con-
while the addition of biotin is suming collagen to support
important for nutrient metab- their joint and bone health as
olism, hair and skin health. well.”
“As a culture, we are be- Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10),
ginning to embrace the con- a potent vitamin-like an-
cept of food as medicine and tioxidant has been gain-
this translates to the realm ing popularity, particularly
of beauty as well with an in- among the elderly, accord-
creased interest in natural ing to market analysis from
products and the idea of inner Global Market Insights, Inc.
beauty for outer health,” Carla As a result, the CoQ10 mar-
Oates, founder, The Beauty ket is on the verge of posting
Chef, Sydney, Australia, told significant growth in com-
Happi. “As a pioneer of the in- ing years, the report stated.
ner beauty industry, I love that Hush & Hush’s TimeCapsule is an age-defending and youth-preserving dietary This product, found in every
this concept has become more supplement with UV protectors like Polypodium leucotomos root. cell of the human body, is
mainstream and in effect, that used to produce energy for
beauty has become wellness cell growth and maintenance.
and wellness has become beauty.” In addition, it is also used by many cosmetic companies as
a prominent constituent in various cosmetics and anti-aging
creams, which will augment the value of the CoQ10 market.
Up Next… CoQ10 is also used as an antioxidant and dietary supplement.
Multinationals appear to have ceded the beauty-from-within The growing requirement of such supplements and anti-aging
category to their smaller, more agile indie rivals…for now. A products by an aging population is also expected to fuel growth.
look at recent patent activity finds that Procter & Gamble has Shifting focus of the consumers toward personal care and
patented (US Patent No. 10,206,862 B2) a capsule comprising a health has led to the growing use of functional beverages and
flow agent and a supplement composition formulated to sup- personal care products, mainly across North America. The North
port the health of human hair, skin and nails. The composition American CoQ10 industry surpassed $200 million in 2015 and
includes biotin; Haematococcus pluvialis algae wherein the will register noticeable CAGR over the years ahead.
Haematococcus pluvialis algae comprises at least 4mg astaxan- Overall, the idea of “personalized nutrition” is currently
thin per daily intake; Reishi; a botanical blend for stress and/or generating a significant buzz in the food industry, and
energy support comprising schizandra, maca and chamomile; innovators are seeking new ways to tackle the many and var-
and a botanical blend for digestive support comprising aloe, ied demands of the modern consumer—including beauty from
peppermint, coriander, cardamom and artichoke. within. •

16 • happi happi.com August 2019

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 Pretty
Smart
An update on the convergence
of technology and beauty.
The global beauty devices market is forecasted to
surpass $34 billion by 2024.
By Christine Esposito • Associate Editor
G
irls love tech—and not just Siri and Alexa. Regular Janes,
Madisons and Olivias, too, are turning to apps, tools and
high-technology to help ID their perfect shade of lipstick
and achieve Instagram-worthy skin in #IRL (no filter needed).
Across categories and price points, beauty brands are pulling
technology into their businesses where it makes most sense—
from retail selection to diagnostics to tools designed to comple-
ment and improve the performance of topical formulations
packed with active ingredients.
According to ReportLinker, the global beauty devices market
is forecasted to surpass $34 billion by 2024. Growth will come
from consumers looking for beauty care products that will ad-
dress increasing levels of pollution and its detrimental effects on
skin and hair as well as from surging disposable income, an esca-
lating geriatric population and increased appearance conscious-
ness. The sector’s main categories include hair removal, hair care
and skin care. The latter has exhibited the fastest growth and is
expected to grow at a faster pace than the others throughout the
forecast period, said ReportLinker.
Tools of the Trade
Companies such as Swedish firm Foreo are successful in skin
care with unique devices designed to improve the performance
of topical products. The brand is just six years old, but Foreo prod-
ucts are now stocked in 10,000 stores and sold in more than 77
18 • happi happi.com August 2019
countries—and consumer interest is rising. In fact, Foreo con-
tends its Luna Mini 2 sonic cleanser device was recently No. 2 on
the Tmall’s wish list for Single’s day— second only to iPhone 8!
Foreo’s roster includes Luna 3, which offers a brush head that
is 30% larger than Luna 2 with silicone touchpoints that are 30%
longer and 25% softer. Plus, it delivers 8,000 T Sonic pulsations
per minute to reach into pores to remove dirt, oil, sebum, makeup
residue, dead skin and more.
“We design to improve purpose and functionality. Our T-Sonic
Pulsations are our trademarked technology which heightens the
absorption of active ingredients of any skin care formulation al-
lowing for more effectiveness,” Beki Hoxha, general manager,
Foreo North America, told Happi.
Foreo also touts a smart mask treatment called the UFO,
which combines advanced dermal technologies (so-called Hyper-
Infusion Technology that uses the skin’s natural reactions to heat
and cold as well as Foreo’s T-Sonic pulsations) with Korean mask
formulas. The UFO device warms mask formulations in Thermo-
Therapy mode, which Foreo says infuses active ingredients into
skin, making them more effective in less time. UFO also has a
Cryo-Therapy mode, which can help diminish the appearance
of pores and reduce puffiness, and LED light therapy with red,
green and blue LED light wavelengths.
Foreo currently offers seven finished mask treatments that
feature a range of active materials and ingredients. They are:
Make My Day—which contains hyaluronic acid and red algae

extract that acts as an anti-pollution barrier;
Call It a Night—which has ginseng for smoothing and mois-
turizing properties and olive oil that provides a long-lasting shield
of moisture and essential fatty acids that replenish dry skin;
H2Overdose—formulated with hyaluronic acid and some-
thing called “3D Hydration,” which is billed as potent moistur-
izing agent that boosts the effects of hyaluronic acid and works to
prevent hydration loss by reinforcing the skin barrier;
Glow Addict—which features pearl extract to moisturize the
skin and promote regeneration, and vitamin E;
Shimmer Freak—formulated with niacinamide, rose water
and caffeine to revitalize the eye contour with their range of anti-
oxidant-infused benefits;
Matte Maniac—which has charcoal to help draw oil, dirt and
other bacteria and snow lotus which purifies; and
Youth Junkie—a mix of collagen, vitamin E and a triple oil
complex of shea butter, jojoba oil and olive oil that replenishes
and smooths dry, mature skin.
It is a quite a lineup—and there are more masks to come, ac-
cording to Hoxka.
“These masks focus on the natural and plant-based beauty
trend. They are developed with premium natural ingredients
Foreo’s UFO warms mask formulations which helps infuse active ingredients into skin, making them more effective in less time.
August 2019 happi.com happi • 19
TECHNOLOGY AND BEAUTY
sourced from the finest destinations around the globe, made with
ultra-smooth hydrocell masks made of 100% plant fibers, and are
packed with essential vitamins and nutrients. All these properties
help to replenish skin and maintain a fresh, radiant glow,”he said.
Treat Me Light
According to NPD Group, skin care treatments that target spe-
cific issues like acne, were some of the hottest growing products
in prestige beauty in the second quarter of 2019. And as women
seek new solutions to correct their skin woes, more brands are
turning to tech to create efficacious ways to banish blemishes
with ease—and light therapy.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare, for example, offers the SpotLite
Acne Treatment Device, an FDA-cleared unit uses a combination
of blue and red light to clear and prevent breakouts in just three
minutes a day. According to the brand, users will see reduction
in pimple size, redness and inflammation, as it treats acne at all
stages—even before it surfaces. Specifically, a 415nm blue LED
light, the strongest non-UV antibacterial light approved by FDA
for acne, targets and destroys P. acnes bacteria while the red light
reduces inflammation, redness and prevents and treats post-ac-
ne dark marks. In clinical studies, 100% of participants reported
 TECHNOLOGY AND BEAUTY

some improvement in the reduction of acne in a 2-week daily- According to Neutrogena, masks are effective vehicles for skin
use clinical study, according to the brand. care ingredients because they create a physical barrier that locks
Dr. Dennis Gross also offers a hands-free acne treatment— them in and maximizes efficacy, and its new analysis tool allows
SpectraLite FaceWare Pro, an at-home unit that was inspired by the company to build a custom mask with specific ingredients
in-office lasers. The medical grade, that are placed in specific ar-
FDA-cleared SpectraLite FaceWare eas. Using a smartphone’s
Pro mask is said to harness a full 3D camera, a multi-di-
spectrum of therapeutic red and mensional map of the
blue light to smooth wrinkles face is created with
and zap acne-causing bacte- exact measurements
ria! The brand contends us- and shape of the
ers can experience a fading nose, space be-
of wrinkles in as just two tween the eyes, lips
weeks and begin seeing and other unique
an improvement in acne physical character-
within days. istics. Neutrogena
The trio of red + Skin 360 then analyzes
infrared lights used the skin’s needs and
are: recommends what in-
• Amber (605 gredients will be most
nm)—repairs sun beneficial and where
damage; they are to go. Lastly,
• Red (630 nm— using a proprietary 3D
increases collagen printing process, ingre-
production (new colla- dients are printed onto
gen fibers); the custom-fit hydrogel
• Deep red (660 mask on the exact zones
nm)—reduces collagen of the mask where they
enzymes, protecting col- will deliver the greatest
lagen; and benefit for that individual.
• Infrared (880 nm)— When it unveiled the con-
stimulates circulation so topical cept in January, Neutrogena
products absorb better. was working with a handful of
Dr. Gross contends the de- ingredients—purified hyaluronic
vice offers a bevy of skin benefits— acid, vitamin B3, feverfew, stabi-
smooths full face lines and wrinkle; firms lized glucosamine and vitamin C—to
skin; reduces appearance of sun spots, age target the main focus areas of skin ap-
spots and discoloration; evens skin tone and pearance—namely lines and wrinkles,
texture; clears mild to moderate acne; prevents dark spots, moisturization, redness and
Dr. Dennis Gross created the laser-inspired
acne flare-ups; calms redness and reduces in- brightness, according to Desiree Dowe,
SpectraLite FaceWare Pro.
flammation; and increases skin density. In clin- director of marketing, global face care,
ical tests, more than 97% of subjects showed Neutrogena.
overall improvement in fine lines, wrinkles, and skin tone (in a The plan is to make the Neutrogena MaskiD available on
10 week daily-use clinical study), and acne (in a 2 week daily-use Neutrogena.com to US consumers in Q3.
clinical study).
Neutrogena’s product stable also includes light therapy masks
and hand-held devices for acne care in the mass market. The In-Depth Learning
Johnson & Johnson brand’s latest endeavor marrying tech and Beauty giant L’Oréal has been digging deeper into the world of
beauty is MaskiD, a personalized 3D-printed sheet mask. The high technology, going so far as acquiring leading artificial intel-
patent-pending mask was developed following requests from ligence (AI) firm ModiFace last year.
users of the Neutrogena Skin 360 skin analysis tool, who wanted Earlier this year, the pair launched an AI-based skin diag-
more personalized options to care for their skin. nostic tool that’s said to be based on 15 years of scientific skin

20 • happi happi.com August 2019


Opté is a new tech-driven beauty device that’s being readied for market inside P&G Ventures.
aging research from L’Oréal’s R&I evaluation teams. Using
“deep learning,” an algorithm trained on 6,000 clinical images
from L’Oréal’s R&I evaluation and knowledge studies conducted
with Skin Aging Atlases, a new model was created on more than
4,500 smartphones selfies for three groups of women (Asian,
Caucasian and Afro-American) in four different lighting condi-
tions. L’Oréal said the results, which were developed with der-
matologists, achieved a high level of skin assessment precision.
Accurate results were obtained with different facial expressions
and photo taking conditions; i.e., light, phone position, similar to
those used by consumers. L’Oréal’s Skin Aging Atlases are billed
by the company as the first exhaustive atlases of facial aging, ad-
dressing visual aging signs. Studies for Skin Aging Atlases were
carried out in France, China, Japan, India and the US on a total
of 4,000 women and men aged from 20 to 80 years. Skin Atlases
allow researchers to evaluate or predict the general aging of the
face and are used for clinical evaluations of cosmetic or dermato-
logical treatments.
The first application of L’Oréal’s new skin diagnostic tool was
rolled out in Vichy SkinConsult, which debuted in Canada. With
SkinConsult, women are invited to take or upload a selfie and
the technology detects and analyzes seven signs of aging (under-
eye wrinkles, lack of firmness, fine lines, lack of radiance, dark
spots, deep wrinkles and pores) to provide a personalized skin
aging matrix (including skin strengths and priorities to act on),
August 2019 happi.com happi • 21
TECHNOLOGY AND BEAUTY
according to the brand. Each user receives a tailor-made product
routine to address specific skin priorities.
“With the acquisition of ModiFace, we have started a second
phase of L’Oréal’s digital transformation, focused on reinventing
the beauty experience through technologies such as voice, AR
and AI. We believe that services will be the new gateways for dis-
covering our brands and products. After virtual makeup try-on,
virtual hair color try-on and online beauty consultations pow-
ered by AR, L’Oréal and ModiFace are proud to unveil the first
skin care diagnostic authentically powered by AI and science,”
explained Lubomira Rochet, chief digital officer of L’Oréal.
Across the L’Oréal stable, brands are leveraging technology
everywhere from R&D to retail.
This year at CES, the massive consumer electronics show in
Las Vegas, the L’Oréal Technology Incubator unveiled My Skin
Track pH by La Roche-Posay, a wearable sensor and companion
app that measures personal skin pH levels and creates custom-
ized product regimens. Co-developed with Epicore Biosystems,
the sensor captures trace amounts of sweat from skin pores
through a network of micro-channels, providing an accurate pH
reading within 15 minutes. In addition to its promise as a future
consumer product, L’Oréal contends the My Skin Track pH will
help advance research into the science of skin and aid in product
development.
More recently, at Viva Technology Paris 2019, L’Oréal and
 TECHNOLOGY AND BEAUTY
Alibaba Group together touted the availability La Roche-Posay’s
Effaclar Spotscan app, which provides analysis of acne-prone
skin, on Alibaba’s Tmall and Taobao platforms.
Other endeavors include L’Oréal’s new Virtual Hair Advisor
which allows visitors to use voice command to virtually apply
different hair colors and get professional advice from L’Oréal
Professionnel experts, and Shade Finder by Lancôme, which uses
AI to recommend a foundation shade directly at the point of sale.
This customized service is currently being deployed across the
world, according to L’Oréal, which said it plans to complete more
than 1,000 installations by the end of the year.
The world’s biggest online retailer is enlisting tech to sell
beauty products, too. Amazon is working with ModiFace’s AI-
powered technology so customers can use their front-facing
camera on their mobile phone to digitally apply lipstick in a live
video of themselves or on a selfie. ModiFace’s proprietary tech-
nology allows retailers to seamlessly incorporate virtual try-on
experiences for an unlimited number of products, it said.
“We are excited to team up with ModiFace to make shop-
ping for cosmetics online even easier by offering customers the
ability to virtually try-on before they buy,” noted Nicolas Le
Bourgeois, head of Amazon Beauty. “With this new AI-powered
virtual experience, Amazon customers can now conveniently
try-on thousands of lipstick products, save photos on their de-
vices to share with friends and ultimately purchase with greater
22 • happi happi.com August 2019
This is a customized sheet mask from
Neutrogena that has ingredients placed
in specific areas of need based on the
customer’s face.
confidence–wherever they are, whenever they want, with prod-
ucts delivered right to their doorstep. This launch is another im-
portant milestone in our vision to be the best possible place for
customers to discover and buy beauty products online.”
Customer Empowerment
Engaging customers and smoothing the transfer of product into
one’s shopping cart (real or virtual) is the goal of every beauty
brand and retailer—and tech continues to play a larger role in
that continuum.
Along those lines, Procter & Gamble provided a peek into
the future by installing the SK-II Future X Smart Store as part its
large-scale presence at CES 2019. Billed as a seamless “phygital”
retail environment where visitors explore immersive, personal-
ized, mixed media experiences that merge the physical and digi-
tal, the store is designed to take intimidation and pressure out
of shopping for skin care in a physical space by giving control
back to the consumer, according to P&G. The Future X Smart
Store incorporated facial recognition, computer vision, AI and
diagnostics that allows consumers to browse, shop and learn
about her skin at her own pace, and on her own terms.
In addition, SK-II is working on a “smart bottle.” Still in de-
velopment, this prototype packaging will reportedly harness the
Internet of Things (IoT) to enhance the users’ SK-II skin care

regimen at home by responding to their usage habits with lights
and verbal cues.
Meanwhile, P&G has been making enhancements within
its powerhouse mass market brand, Olay. Recent developments
at Olay Skin Advisor include: the Olay Future You Simulation,
which uses a proprietary visual simulation algorithm enabling
users to visualize what their skin and face will look like in the
future, with different scenarios (fast vs. slow aging, daily SPF
use vs. no SPF, etc.) illustrating the impact of certain skin care
routines. Skin Decoder was launched in China where Olay is
sold at department store counters. It uses a camera attachment
for mobile devices that improves image accuracy for a more de-
tailed skin diagnosis which can ultimately enable tracking of
results over time. The Olay Smart Wand, which connected to
the Olay Skin Advisor mobile app, is billed as the first consumer
electronic device leveraging electromagnetic technology to offer
the consumer the ability to personalize and optimize skin care
product benefits toward their specific skin problems on a digital
platform. According to P&G, the wand receives information and
instructions from Olay Skin Advisor in the mobile app and then
creates temporary, dynamically programmable fields that drive
individual ingredients into the skin, targeting the consumer’s
specific skin issues.
“Personalization is playing a huge role in beauty,” Dr. Frauke
Neuser, principal scientist-Olay, told Happi in an interview
ahead of CES 2019. Acknowledging that the health, wellness
and medical categories were early adopters of personalization,
she added, “Beauty is a bit behind, but it is here to stay.”
In addition to its established beauty brands, P&G has un-
veiled an entirely new beauty property—the Opté Precision
Skincare System. Incubated inside P&G Ventures and protected
with more than 40 patents, Opté combines the “best of camera
optics, proprietary algorithms, printing technology, and skin-
care” in one device, to scan, detect, and correct hyperpigmenta-
tion with precision application. Unlike traditional spot coverage
options such as makeup or serums, Opté’s proprietary technol-
ogy allows users to treat only the small areas that need correc-
tion without covering the skin that doesn’t, which results in a
natural, flawless look that makeup and professional treatments
are unable to achieve.
Opté achieves such flawlessness through four proprietary
technologies: blue LED scan lights maximize the contrast in
skin melanin as its scans, the camera optics to see up to 3x more
pigmentation than the eye can, allowing both visible spots and
not yet noticeable spots to be detected; an integrated digital
camera that captures 200 skin images per second, resulting in
approximately 24,000 pictures of skin analyzed with each use;
an algorithm that microprocesses 70,000 lines of code to deter-
mine the size, shape and intensity of the spot in contrast to the
adjacent surrounding skin; and a micro serum-jet printer with
120 thermal inkjet nozzles that deposit 1,000 picoliter droplets
of Opté’s Optimizing Serum to achieve precise coverage. The
August 2019 happi.com happi • 23
TECHNOLOGY AND BEAUTY
serum is formulated with mineral pigments to provide immedi-
ate coverage,“spot lightening” skin care ingredients designed to
reduce the appearance of age spots over time, and moisturizers
to help skin retain moisture.
The plan is to make Opté available for purchase in 2020, ac-
cording to Procter & Gamble officials.
“By partnering with leading scientists and experts across
industries, we have been able to create a first-of-its-kind, dig-
itally-advanced skincare device that is visibly transforming the
look of skin,” noted Leigh Radford, vice president and general
manager of P&G Ventures. “Opté provides Procter & Gamble
with an entirely new category of digital skincare to explore and
a technology platform from which to innovate.”
It isn’t just the biggest brands enlisting tech to better serve
and engage their customers. This summer, New York based bou-
tique beauty retailer Knockout Beauty collaborated with expert
facialist Georgia Louise in a tech-driven effort to deliver cus-
tomized skin care. Louise, who set up a temporary residency at
Knockout’s storefront in the tony Hamptons area of New York,
installed the new Georgia Louise Bespoke Cream Machine, de-
scribed as an on-site lab machine that uses sensory technology to
analyze a client’s skin—think hydration levels, sebum levels, and
pH values. The unit’s computer then builds a cream completely
tailored to the individual’s skin and prints an INCI list with all the
active ingredients to target their specific skin needs.
Speaking about her partnership with Cayli Cavaco Reck,
founder of Knockout Beauty, Louise said she couldn’t ask for a
more perfect partner and storefront in Bridgehampton to launch
the new Georgia Louise Bespoke Cream Machine.
“Knockout Beauty clients will be able to experience a per-
sonalized skin analysis using state of the art technology to cre-
ate a unique cream completely dedicated to their personal skin
concerns, problem areas and goals. The machine is essentially
my very own lab that has the ability to create over 50 million
unique formulas, and is absolutely amazing to watch – truly
a Charlie and the Chocolate Factory moment,” she said in a
statement.
Making Connections
As AI, AR and high-tech tools take hold in every consumer mar-
ket, savvy beauty brands are likely to venture into new areas
where smart technologies can work in tandem with—and sell—
their creams, colors and more.
“We are looking at every aspect of everyday life where our
innovation and technology can make an impact by making life
more streamlined and simpler,” said Foreo’s Hoxka, noting that
he expects his company to expand into new areas of personal
care. “We are more and more connected. The advancements in
artificial intelligence and the fusion of these technologies in mak-
ing everyday life easier cannot be ignored.” •
 SKIN CARE FORMULAS FROM DSM
BOUNCE BACK SKIN RECOVERY
SERUM WITH BEL-EVEN
This serum helps to rebalance skin from the visible effects of daily
stress. Its “memory form” texture instantly engages the senses by
quickly recovering when pressed, for a true “anti-stress” effect.
The skin rebalancing action is powered by Bel-even, a patent-
ed cosmetic ingredient which visibly reduces signs of a stressful
lifestyle, for fuller, more supple-looking skin with improved skin
elasticity and greater barrier integrity.
INGREDIENTS WT%
Phase A
Deionized water 77.489
Zemea Propanediol (Dupont Tate & Lyle Bioproducts) 7.00
(Propanediol) INGREDIENTS WT%
Adeka Nol GT-730 (Adeka) 4.00
(PEG-240/HDI Copolymer BIS-decyltetradeceth-20 ether,
aqua, butylene glycol, potassium laurate, tocopherol)
Dekaben CP (Jan Dekker) (Chlorphenesin) 0.20
Phase B
Emulium Mellifera MB (Gattefosse S.A.) 3.00
(Polyglyceryl-6 distearate, jojoba esters, polyglyceryl-3 bees-
wax, cetyl alcohol)
Xiameter PMX-200 50cs (Dow Corning Corp) 2.00
(Dimethicone) (Levulinic acid, sodium levulinate, glycerin, aqua)
Myritol 318 (BASF) (Caprylic/capric triglyceride) 2.00
Cetiol C5 (BASF) (Coco-caprylate) 2.00
Phase C
Bel-even (DSM) 1.00
(Propanediol, biphenyl azepanyl methanone)
Frag 49454695 Sail Away (Drom Fragrances) 0.20
Euxyl PE 9010 (schülke & Mayr) 1.00
(Phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin)
FD&C Red n°40 - 1% Solution (Cosnaderm) 0.021
(CI 16035, aqua)
Phase D
Citric Acid 10% Solution (Jungbunzlauer) 0.09
(Citric acid, aqua) preparation and use of the finished product. No guarantee of performance or
Procedure: Heat phase A to 75-80°C under stirring. Heat phase
B to 75-80°C under stirring. Add phase B to A and homogenize
with high shear mix (2 min at 13500 rpm). Cool down to 40°C
while stirring and add ingredients of phase C one by one. Adjust
the pH with phase D. Properties: pH—5.70; Viscocity (Brookfield
RV6/10rpm)—23,000 mPas.
24 • happi happi.com August 2019
Hydro Blue Mist & Boost
With Pepha-Age, Pentavitin and Niacinamide PC
This Hydro Blue Mist & Boost is an innovative concept combin-
ing an evanescent texture with the effectiveness of powerful active
ingredients.
The formula can be used either as a mist, for an on-the-go ap-
plication, or as a booster to reinforce a daily routine by adding few
drops in a day cream. The Hydro Blue Mist & Boost provides long-
lasting hydration thanks to Pentavitin, protection against the effects
of UV and blue light, with Pepha-Age and anti-pollution thanks to
Niacinamide PC.
Phase A
Deionized water 87.55
Glycerine CremerGlyC 86.5% (Cremer) 1.00
(Glycerin, aqua)
Pepha-Age (DSM) 3.00
(Scenedesmus rubescens extract, aqua, phenoxyethanol)
Pentavitin (DSM) 0.50
(Saccharide isomerate, aqua, citric acid, sodium citrate)
Dermosoft 700 B (Dr. Straetmans) 1.00
Euxyl K 712 (Schülke & Mayr) 1.00
(Aqua, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate)
Niacinamide PC (DSM) (Niacinamide) 1.00
Dow Corning 2501 Cosmetic Wax (Dow Corning Europe) 0.40
(BIS-PEG-18 Methyl ether dimethyl silane)
Product formulas are supplied by producers of raw materials. Included in
some instances are sources of supply for the raw materials and instructions for
safety is implied by Happi. For more complete details, readers should contact
the suppliers directly using the telephone number or website provided with each
formula. If your company has a formula that you think would be of interest to
readers of Happi, marketers of soaps and detergents; cosmetics and toiletries;
fragrances; waxes and polishes; disinfectants and sanitizers and other chemical
specialties, we will be pleased to consider it for publication. Address all material
to: Formulary Editor, Happi, 25 Philips Parkway, Montvale, NJ 07645 USA;
Email: tbranna@rodmanmedia.com

Phase B
Solubilisant LRI (Sensient) 0.20
(PPG-26-Buteth-26, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, aqua)
Frag 49424902 Chloe (Drom Fragrances) 0.10
Phase C
1,3-Propandiol (Connect Chemicals) (Propanediol) 4.00
Phase D
Cosnacolor FD&C Blue No.1 0.1% Solution (LCW) 0.25
(CI 42090, aqua)
Sodium Hydroxide 10% Solution q.s.
Procedure: Mix phase A at room temperature under stirring.
Mix phase B at room temperature under stirring. Add phase B
to phase A under stirring. Add phases C & D at room tempera-
ture to AB under stirring. Adjust with phase E to pH about 5.5.
Properties: pH—5.55.
Power-Fill Water Drop Ampuole
With Syn-Hycan, Pepha-Tight and Hyaluronic Acid BT
Fill, firm, lift and hydrate. Water drop serums deliver quick bursts
of hydration through an ultra-light texture that allows for fast de-
livery of skin-beneficial ingredients.
This power serum has a water-light texture with the skin reju-
venating power of a cream.
Key ingredients work together to deliver instant and long-term
consumer perceivable firmness, hydration and lift.
Apply to face for immediately noticeable skin firming action.
INGREDIENTS WT%
Phase A
Deionized water 83.85
Glycerin, 99.7% 3.00
Lexgard HPO (Inolex) 1.00
(Caprylyl glycol, phenoxyethanol)
EDTA 0.20
Phase B
Hyaluronic Acid BT (DSM) 0.35
(Sodium hyaluronate)
Phase C
Pepha-Tight (DSM) 5.00
(Algae extract; pullulan; aqua; phenoxyethanol; sodium
sorbate; potassium sorbate)
Niacinamide PC (DSM) 4.00
Syn-Hycan (DSM) 2.50
(Glycerin; aqua; magnesium chloride; tetradecyl
aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetate)
Phase D
Citric Acid Anhydrous (Citric acid) 0.10
August 2019 happi.com happi • 25
SKIN CARE FORMULAS FROM DSM
Procedure: Stir phase A ingredients. Slowly add hyaluronic acid
(phase B) to phase A, while stirring, until hyaluronic acid-BT is
fully solubilized. Add phase C ingredient one by one under agita-
tion. Adjust pH to 5.5-6.5. with phase D.
Seen & Unseen
Bright Night Blue Light Defense Serum.
Night time rejuvenating serum with Pepha-Age 1%
INGREDIENTS WT%
Phase A
Deionized water 82.05
Glycerin, 99.5% 2.00
Simugel EG 3.00
(Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate
copolymer isohexadecane, polysorbate 80)
Pepha-Age (DSM) 1.00
(Scenedesmus rubescens extract, aqua, phenoxyethanol)
Niacinamide PC (DSM) 3.00
Phase B
AquaSphere A 2.50
(Isododecane, adipic acid/neopentyl glycol crosspolymer,
lauryl dimethicone, hydrogenated polyisobutene
Neossance Hemisqualane 3.00
(C13-15 alkane)
Valvance Touch 210 (DSM) 0.20
(Silica)
dl-alpha-Tocopherol (DSM) 0.50
(Tocopherol)
Phase C
Diocide 1.00
(Caprylyl glycol, phenoxyethanol, hexylene glycol)
Hyasol-PF 1.50
(Aqua, phenoxyethanol, sodium hyaluronate)
Citrus TEA E Parfum 0.25
Procedure: Mix phase A ingredients until homgeneous. Mix
phase B ingredients until homogeneous. Add phase B to phase
A with mixing until homogeneous. Add phase C ingredients
one by one to AB with mixing until homogeneous.
Technical data: pH 5.5-6.5
For more information on these formulas, please contact DSM,
https://www.dsm.com/markets/personal-care/en_US/home.html
SYN -HYCAN ®

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Formulating
with
Hyaluronic
Acid
Many skin care products
today contain this
miracle ingredient.
Replenishing depleted levels of HA helps restore healthy, vibrant and youthful looking
skin. Here’s what to look for in these materials.
Navin M. Geria • Ayurderm
H
yaluronic acid (HA), frequently called hyaluronan, and
biochemically identified as glycosaminoglycan (GAG),
was initially isolated from cow’s eyes in 1934 by Karl
Meyer in the opthalmology laboratory in Columbia University.
Meyer discovered that HA in cow’s eyes helped retain their
shape. The substance was very viscous, leading Meyer to suspect
that it might have additional therapeutic uses. Its name reflects
its transparent glassy nature (the Greek word for glass is hyalos).
Another Columbia University employee, Dr. Endre A.
Balazs, discovered how to extract and purify HA from rooster
combs. Since the 1970s, HA has been injected in the arthritic
knees of race horses to reduce inflammation and is also used
in veterinary eye surgery. The first cosmetic grade of HA, called
Biometrix, was developed by Balazs, who partnered with The
Estée Lauder Companies to help develop the first major cos-
metic product containing HA, called Night Repair.
HA production based on fermentation using Streptococcus
zooepidermicus was developed in 1984 by Shiseido and today,
August 2019 happi.com happi • 27
virtually all of the HA used in cosmetics is produced this way.
In February 2003, the FDA approved Restylane as a non-animal
dermal filler to reduce skin wrinkles; later, in 2006, FDA ap-
proved Allergan’s Juvederm for the same use. Hyaluronic acids
are not really acids like alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs). Rather,
they are polysaccharides or natural sugars that humans need in
order to function properly.
HA is produced throughout the body by fibroblast cells. It
is found inside the cells, on the cell surface and in surrounding
connective tissues. Sometimes localized accumulation of hyal-
uronic acid occurs in human diseases such as sarcoidosis and
lung fibrosis. Both collagen and hyaluronic acid rapidly degrade
and are regenerated in the human body on a daily basis. This
means, the human body is continually being remodeled. HA
has been found at differing levels in a variety of animal tissues.
It is interesting to note that Chinese Shar-Pei, the well-known
dog breed, has a much higher level of hyaluronic acid in its skin,
which is the reason for the dog’s unique skin folds.
 HYALURONIC ACID
Hyaluronic acid takes its name from
“hyalos,” the Greek word for glass.
HA and Skin Care
Sodium hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid. A
naturally-occurring biopolymer, glycosaminoglycan consists of
repeating disaccharide units of N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and
sodium-D-glucuronate. Both compounds are negatively charged.
When put together, they repel and create an exceptionally long
molecule which gives hyaluronic acid its high molecular weight.
It is an important component of the extracellular matrix (ECM) of
the skin which helps the skin to appear wrinkle-free.
The long-lasting interest in HA’s use in skin care products
started after the observation that the level of HA in skin de-
creases with age resulting in more laxity, shallowness and dull-
ness. HA plumps the skin, yielding a more youthful appearance.
Chronologically-aged skin contains less HA than younger skin.
The average person has roughly 15g of HA in his or her body,
of which one third is replaced every day. The natural decline in
HA as we age is responsible for moisture loss as well as abnor-
mal structural changes to collagen, elastin, slowed cell turnover,
impaired tissue healing and compromised photoprotection; all of
which leads to skin wrinkling, dryness and sagging, which are
characteristic of premature aging.
HA is also present in stratum corneum and it is believed to
play a role in regulating the mechanical properties of collagen.
HA and elastin bind each other covalently and create a three
dimensional structure that is impaired in aged skin. These three
components must be increased in order to give skin a younger
appearance. Mature elastic fibers are found at the boundary of
collagen bundles, suggesting that elastin has important interac-
tions with collagen as well as HA. Replenishing depleted levels
of HA helps restore healthy, vibrant and youthful looking skin.
The information on product usage for HA and its salts in the
International Cosmetic Ingredient handbook, suggests that HA
enjoys widespread use in cosmetic skin care products. According
28 • happi happi.com August 2019
to Globalqyresearch.com, the global HA market was valued at
$6.5 billion in 2018 and is expected to reach $13.4 billion by the
end of 2025.
HA is a linear polymer of very high molecular weight, with
molecular mass climbing up to 4-5 x 106 daltons (Da). HA is
synthesized by cells in the dermis and in the epidermis. We do
not know how this macromolecule reaches sites differently from
the site of synthesis. We do have evidence that cells in the epi-
dermis display an HA receptor. This accounts for the presence of
HA in the epidermis and the basement membrane and between
epidermal cells.1 HA is responsible for attracting more than 1000
times its weight in water and it gives the dermis its volume. The
water-swelling properties of HA contribute to the viscous behav-
ior of the ECM. HA protects, nourishes and rebuilds the extra
cellular matrix responsible for skin cohesion, firmness and elas-
ticity. Fibroblasts synthesize HA, and this HA tends to bind to the
surface of dermal and epidermal cells. The evidence suggests that
HA plays an important role in wound healing, probably in rela-
tion to cell contact or migration.
The material has a range of other therapeutic uses. HA is
an adjuvant in eye surgery when it is injected into the anterior
chamber. HA is used clinically in the treatment of joint diseases.
Its effect may be related to the lubricating characteristics of aque-
ous HA solutions. HA is present in large amounts in normal skin.
As ingestible beauty goes mainstream (see p. 11), consumers
have realized that proper diet, correct supplements and great skin
are directly related. It’s not only about what you put on the sur-
face of skin, but what you ingest as well. Processed sugar glycates
collagen, which stiffens and ages the skin. Hyaluronic acid and
ceramides are both star ingredients that are popular in a wide
range of skin care formulas. Sodium hyaluronate also known as
hyaluronic acid has moisturizing properties that help retain water
in skin cells. It is a mighty humectant or moisture magnet that
keeps skin quenched.
Ceramides are synthesized sphingolipids that are used to
smooth skin and interact with the top layer to protect water loss.
According to supplement manufacturers, both of them keep skin
more hydrated and more resistant to fine lines and wrinkles.
Ceramides function as a glue that bonds together skin cells to
create a protective layer that shields skin from external dam-
age and helps retain moisture. Both of these agents are also well
complemented by natural antioxidants, which fight free radicals
generated by sunlight and other extrinsic pollutants. With HA
injectables like Restylane, Juvederm and Perlane, dermatologists
and plastic surgeons can add volume and fullness to lips. HA is
also moldable, making it one of the most popular lip augmenta-
tion procedure. You can achieve significant volume with inject-
ables. Today’s burgeoning array of synthetic fillers have their place
in facial rejuvenation. According to New York City Dermatologist
Howard Sobel M.D., synthetics are not recommended for long-
term results. That is where biologic products come in, and 2019
could be the year injectables become available.
 HYALURONIC ACID

Source of Inspiration lightening properties, easily penetrates skin

Hyaluronic acid is taking center stage in cos- and increases cell turnover. It also has been
metic creams, lotions and serums. Multiple shown to moisturize skin and improve skin
molecular weights of it are being cocktailed elasticity. Oral supplements of HA have been
in ways that research shows can stimulate HA shown to improve skin hydration and reduce
production, so that skin is moisturized and fine lines and wrinkles. A cream containing
made plumper from within, not just on the 0.2% low MW HA was shown to significantly
surface. Contrary to marketing claims, topical- improve rosacea.
ly applied HA cannot penetrate the epidermis
and enter the dermis because the molecule is
too large. On the Market
According to Sonia Dawson, regional Obviously, hyaluronic acid isn’t a new ingredi-
marketing manager, DSM, the company’s ent, but multinationals and startups alike are
newest skin active, Beauactive, is a potent rolling out HA-based creams and lotions to
hydroxystearic acid molecule which is manu- store shelves and online shops at a fast clip.
factured using green technology. It decreases For example, Lancôme’s Hydrating Fall Skin
UV-induced MMP expression, while increas- Care Routine includes new Rose Milk Mist,
ing collagen I and III production which can which is formulated with hyaluronic acid and
help reduce conspicuous facial pore size. rose water to plump, hydrate and even skin
Furthermore, Beauactive decreased the prev- tone. Lancôme says the mist refreshes the skin
alence of UV stress marker p53, leading to with 24-hour hydration that soothes and com-
reduced production of melanin, hence it is ef- forts. In fact, the mist is said to instantly hy-
fective at correcting age spots. In clinical stud- drate skin, making it more supple and elastic,
ies it showed visibly reduced enlarged facial bouncier, softer, silkier, soothed and comfort-
pores and age spots, improving the appear- able as if a cream had been applied. Skin feels
ance of skin after age 30. smoother and its texture is improved. After one
Another DSM innovative active is Syn- week, skin feels reinforced and plumper, skin
Hycan, a patented cosmetic tripeptide said to tone looks more even, and after four weeks,
boost hyaluronic acid production, providing skin looks younger, according to Lancôme.
significant skin firming and remodeling from Lancôme’s Rose Milk Mist is formulated
Sweet Chef, a brand that says it is deter-
within. It is a potent TGF-b activating peptide with hyaluronic acid and rose water to mined to bring fresh, affordable skin care to
with proven HA synthesis action, enhancing plump, hydrate and even skin tone. the masses, recently introduced Superfood +
skin firmness to produce a volumizing effect. Vitamins Moisture Boost in 900 Target doors.
It was interesting to note that it also boosted The formula, which retails for $19, is said to be
CD44, a key cellular receptor for HA. It has the ability to act as a rich in ingredients like Reishi mushroom, chia seeds, spirulina,
filler, which helps provide the skin with mechanical cushioning. ginseng and red algae to help fight free radical damage, smooth
the appearance of fine lines, and help to soothe and calm skin.
Meanwhile, hyaluronic acid keeps skin supple and bouncy as it
Which One to Choose? attracts water molecules and holds 1,000 times its weight in wa-
Picking the right hyaluronic acid grade is tricky. The molecule is ter. It all comes together to leave skin hydrated, nourished and
often times too large to effectively deliver hydration deep into glowing, according to company executives.
skin layers. The following information may be helpful in selecting “Hyaluronic acid is the holy grail of hydrators. We love this in-
the right grade of HA for a skin care product. gredient,”said Christine Chang, co-founder and co-CEO of Glow
The skin care benefits of hyaluronic acid vary by molecular Recipe, the parent company of Sweet Chef. “Skin is instantly
weight. For example, high molecular weight HA moisturizes skin quenched and plumped upon application. With our Superfood
and forms viscous solutions with a highly lubricating skin feel. Moisturizer, it was important that it be packed with hydrating,
A 50,000 MW HA increases skin elasticity and reduces fine lines good-for-skin ingredients like hyaluronic acid, nutrient-rich veg-
and wrinkles. Sodium acetylated hyaluronic acid moisturizes skin etables, effective vitamins, and superfood extracts so that it could
and maintains skin elasticity better over time vs a nonacetylated be your go-to moisturizer.”
grade. It is reportedly less sticky and stringy, too. Oligo HA-can Superfood + Vitamins Moisture Boost isn’t the first formula
penetrate the stratum corneum and also binds moisture bet- from Sweet Chef to include hyaluronic acid. The ingredient was
ter than the high MW grade N-acetyl glucosamine. It has skin first incorporated into its Kale+Vitamin B Serum Shot, recalled

August 2019 happi.com happi • 29

 HYALURONIC ACID
Sweet Chef’s Superfood + Vitamins Moisture Boost features hyaluronic acid to
keep skin supple and bouncy.
Sarah Lee, co-founder and co-CEO of Glow Recipe. “While de-
veloping Superfood+ Vitamins Moisture Boost, we knew hyal-
uronic acid would be a great ingredient to add. We specifically
use sodium hyaluronate, which has a lower molecular size than
hyaluronic acid, allowing it to more deeply penetrate the skin.”
The Glow Recipe executives said they believe in pairing time-
tested, proven actives with antioxidant-rich fruit extracts.
“Hyaluronic acid is amazing for aiding the skin in retaining
moisture levels. We love this ingredient for its instant hydrating
and plumping effect and can see why many formulas include this
ingredient, said Chang.
EM Cosmetics, a brand founded by makeup artist and
YouTube personality Michelle Phan, recently launched Color
Drops Serum Blush. The formula, available in four shades (pink
nectar, soft amethyst, rose milk and sunset sky), contains sacha
inchi oil, hyaluronic acid and vitamin E to help cheeks appear
youthful, healthy, plump and bouncy while lending an enduring
sheen to the skin, according to EM executives.
“Hyaluronic acid is extremely efficacious for hydration. And
since we wanted to create healthy looking skin in a bottle, we
knew this was the perfect ingredient,” explained Renee Chan,
general manager, EM Cosmetics.“Our goal was to create a ‘make-
up meets skin care’ product, we intentionally incorporated hyal-
uronic acid because of its powerful skin care benefits.”
Over at Milk Makeup, recent introductions included Flex
Highlighter ($28), which promises to hydrate skin with hyaluronic
acid-filled spheres. The formula also contains crushed gemstones
and a weightless pearlescent base that combine to glide on for a
next-level glow, according to Milk Makeup. Flex Highlighter also
contains blue lotus to moisturize and chamomile to help calm
redness and soothe skin, while marshmallow root extract reduces
caking and creasing.
While historically viewed as simply a “space filler” accumulat-
ing research indicates that hyaluronic acid plays a greater role in
fighting skin aging than previously thought. Research shows that
30 • happi happi.com August 2019
EM Cosmetics’ new Color Drops Serum Blush contains hyaluronic acid to help
cheeks appear youthful, healthy, plump and bouncy.
when applied topically, the combination of high and low molecu-
lar weight hyaluronic acid is a safer, more affordable alternative to
topical fillers and laser resurfacing with similar skin rejuvenation
effects. Hyaluronic acid-based formulas are the perfect addition
to a skin care regimen based on age preservation instead of age
intervention.
Hyaluronic acid is here to stay, agrees Chan. “It’s such an
exceptional ingredient in so many ways—it’s the gold standard
for hydration, which is essential for keeping skin looking plump,
bouncy and youthful.” •
References:
1. C. B. Underhill, The biology of Hyaluronan, Ciba Foundation Symposium 143
About the Author
Navin M. Geria, a former Pfizer Research Fellow, is a cosmetic and pharmaceu-
tical product development chemist and the chief scientific officer of AyurDerm
Technologies LLC, which provides Ayurvedic, natural and cosmeceutical custom
formulation development and consulting services to the spa-wellness-dermatolo-
gy industries. He has launched dozens of cosmeceutical and ayurvedic anti-aging
products in the market place. Geria has more than 30 years of experience in the
personal care industry and was previously with Clairol, Warner-Lambert, Schick-
Energizer, Bristol-Myers and Spa Dermaceuticals. He has nearly 20 US patents and
has been published extensively. Geria edited the“Handbook of Skin-Aging Theories
for Cosmetic Formulation Development” focus book published in April 2016 by
Harry’s Cosmeticology. Most recently, he is author of the soon-to-be-released
“Aging Well: Advances & Treatments” published by Chemical Publishing Company.
He is a speaker, moderator and chairman at cosmetic industry events.