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When expecting my fifth baby, I decided to knit a "going home" outfit in blue, in case the baby was
boy, and in pink, if it was a girl (I did not know what I was having). The idea was that once the baby is
born, it will be dressed in the appropriate outfit, and the unused set would end up being a doll's
outfit for other kids to play with.
I love cables and I love lace, so the idea for "Handsome Cables" Baby Boy cardigan pattern was born.
Following the seamless top-down raglan style cardigan rules (as I did not fancy sewing any seams -
for a beginner it seems daunting), I knitted up this cute baby boy cardigan. I am happy to share my
pattern notes for this baby boy cardigan for free, providing that you follow this copyright notice:
Copyright Notice
Feel free to share a link to this pattern by linking to my blog and giving copyright credit to ©
CraftsAdore, but do not copy the pattern and claim as your own. The pattern is as-is, and I cannot
provide any individual support on it. This pattern may not be used to produce items for commercial
purposes - you may knit from this pattern for own personal use only or for charity. Please feel free to
share your finished project by adding your comment to this post. ❤ Happy Knitting! ❤
Key:
K - Knit Stitch
P - Purl Stitch
YO – yarn over
PSSO – pass the slipped stitch over
x - e.g. x2 or x3 - repeat that many times the pattern in the preceding round () brackets
Tags : Newborn, Newborn-size, Baby, Top-Down, Raglan, Cardigan, Sweater, Buttoned, Seamless,
Hospital, Home Coming, Layette
Gauge: 5st per 1inch, (20st per 4 inch), 7 rows per 1 inch (28 rows per 4 inch)
Equipment: 4 markers in one color (marker PM), and 4 markers in another color (marker IM)
4mm UK / 6 US long circular needles for main body & sleeves on magic loop
3.25mm UK / 3 US long circular needles for cast on of neck & bottom rim and sleeve rims
Cable needle
Cast On:
Using 3.25mm circular needles (knitting back and forth, not in the round),
Row 1 WS: Sl1 purlwise, Knit (this will be the wrong side of your work)
Row 2 RS: Sl1 purlwise, *K1, P1; repeat from * to last st, K1.
Row 4 RS: Sl1 purlwise, *K1, P1; repeat from * to last st, K1.
Row 5 WS: Sl1 purlwise, Knit to end
Row 6 RS: Sl1 purlwise, *K1, P1; repeat from * to last st, K1.
Row 8 RS: Sl1 purlwise, *K1, P1; repeat from * to last st, K1,
Row 9 WS: CO 7st, Sl1 purlwise, Knit to end, turn work & CO 7st (68st)
Set up “increment” stitch markers (IM) and “pattern markers” (PM) as follows:
(IM markers are shown in Red on my picture below, and PM markers Blue and Black)
7st (rim PM) - 10st (front 1 IM) – 7st (sleeve IM) – 20 st (back IM) – 7st (sleeve IM) – 10st (front 2
PM) – 7st (rim PM),
(you will only use 2 PM to start, the others will be used after row 22 - see special notes below)
Switch to 4mm circular needles (knitting back and forth, not in the round)
Row 1 (RS):
Front 1: [P2, K1, YO, SSK], [P2, (C4B) x2, P2], [K1, YO, SSK, P2]
Sleeve: K all st to 1 st before next IM, KFB, slip IM, KFB, K any stitches to PM
Front 2: [P2, K1, YO, SSK], [P2, (C4F) x2, P2], [K1, YO, SSK, P2]
Rim 2: K7
Row 3 (RS):
Front 1: [P2, K2tog, YO, K1], [P2, K2, C4F, K2, P2], [K2tog, YO, K1, P2]
Sleeve: K all st to 1 st before next IM, KFB, slip IM, KFB, K any stitches to PM
Front 2: [P2, K2tog, YO, K1], [P2, K2, C4B, K2, P2], [K2tog, YO, K1, P2]
Row 4 (WS):
Rim 2: K7
First few row repeats will not have enough stitches yet to complete full "Front 1"/"Front 2" patterns,
so until the increments are added, you can only fit as much as you can of the cable repeats (i.e. first
several stitches of pattern st for "Front 1", and last several stitches of pattern st for "Front 2" – if
there is not enough stitches to do a full cable pattern, just K those stitches). This way you will have at
least partial cable pattern "squeezed" to fit into this space and it will look nicer than just knitting
those stitches. For example:
Row 1 - Front 1 Do the first and Third brackets, end with a kfb.
Row 3 - Front 1 do first bracket, {Knit all stitches for First cable bracket bit} Purl 2, knit 3, End with a
Kfb. Front 2 KFB, Knit 3, purl 2 and do last bracket.
Row 4 - Front 1 knit 2 purl to marker. Front 2 purl to last two and knit those.
Row 5 - Front 1 do first bracket, Purl 2, Knit 4, Kfb. Front 2 kfb, Knit 4, Purl 2, Do last bracket.
Row 7 - Front 1 Do first bracket, purl 2, knit to last stitch, kfb. Front 2 work front 1 backwards.
Row 9 - Front 1 Do first bracket, do up two second cable and kfb in last stitch of cable. Now have
enough stitches to work the cables and the increases will be easy to add in the pattern now. Front 2
slip 2 st on cable needle, KFB then work stitches on cable needle, continue in pattern.
On first 22 rows, PM and IM will actually be in the same position (so you can use just IM) - KFB 1 st
before and after marker.
Once you reach 22st on Front 1 & 2, you can place a PM and you’d be K those extra st between PM
and IM on RS, and P on WS, remembering to increase 1 st before and after IM by KFB on RS only till
row 32.
Continue in pattern - i.e. repeat 1-4 pattern till 32 rows as follows (rows in bracket - don't forget to
add button holes):
RS Row 3 pattern: 3, 7, 11, 19, 23, 27, 31 Boys Button Rows: (9), (21), (33) i.e. every 12 rows
(see “Single Button Row” instructions) on Rim 1
Row 1 : Continue as per pattern to sleeve marker (DON’T forget the button hole), K2, CO 5st using
cable cast on, slip Sleeve rest of stitches on spare yarn, continue pattern to next Sleeve marker, K2,
CO 5st, slip Sleeve stitches on spare yarn, continue in pattern till end. Remove all IMs, Continue with
Row 2-4 pattern.
Repeat row 1-4 till back from collar measures 8’’ (about 8 repeats), or continue for longer if prefer
longer style e.g. 10’’, but without any more IM, (keep PM and follow Rims & Front1/2 patterns).
Bottom Rim:
Repeat seed rib stitch for 9 rows as per collar pattern, starting on RS pattern:
If you need visual help on single row button technique, there are some great youtube videos, e.g.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EY4vBzLo-Xs
Step 1: Once you have reached to row in your knitting where you want to place the button (i.e .row
9 in this pattern, and then (21), (33) i.e. every 12 rows - depending how many buttons you want, I
did 3), first do (Sl1 purlwise, K1, P1), then bring the working yarn forward and continue as follows:
Step 2: Slip the next stitch from your main needle purl wise.
Step 5: Pass the second stitch on your working needle over the first stitch.
Repeat steps 4 and 5 for as many stitches as is needed to fit your button (x2). Slip last st back on
main needle
Note: You may want to pull very tight on your working yarn before the next step and continue
pulling tight for the first stitch. This will prevent or limit holes next to the buttonhole.
Step 7: Using the cable cast on, add the same number of stitches as was bound off to your main
needle + 1. (3st)
Step 9: Slip the next stitch from you main needle purl wise.
Step 10: Pass the additional stitch from you cast on over the first stitch on your working needle.
Step 11: Pass the first stitch on your working needle back to the main needle.
Step 12: Work the next stitch in pattern and continue knitting as normal.
Note: You may need to k2tog/ p2tog or through the back loop to tighten up any loose stitches.
Sleeves:
Transfer stitches from spare yarn, join in round, picking up & knitting into extra 10 st from under
arm. Continue to knit in round till under arm measures 4”.
Round 2 : P all st
BO in purl pattern.
Note: sleeves knitted in the round will not match exactly the gauge of main body, so either knit more
loosely, switch to larger needles or knit flat and then sew the edges under arm.