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Wool fabrics
A natural fiber, wool comes primarily from sheep—Australian merino sheep’s wool is considered to be the best.
However, we also get wool fibers from goats (mohair and cashmere), rabbits (angora), camels (camel hair), and
llamas (alpaca). A wool fiber is either short and fluffy, when it is known as a woolen yarn, or it is long, strong, and
smooth, when it is called worsted
Characteristics of Wool
a. CASHMERE- wool from the Kashmir goat, and the most luxurious of all the wools. A soft yet hard-wearing
fabric available in different weights
b. CHALLIS- a fine wool fabric, made from a worsted yarn that has an uneven surface texture. Challis is
often printed as well as plain.
c. CREPE- a soft fabric made from a twisted yarn, which is what produces the uneven surface. It is
important to preshrink this fabric prior to use by giving it a good steaming, because it will have stretched
on the bolt and it is prone to shrinkage.
d. FLANNEL- a wool with a lightly brushed surface, featuring either a plain or twill weave. Used in the past
for underwear.
e. GABARDINE- A hard-wearing suiting fabric with a distinctive weave. Gabardine often has a sheen and is
prone to shine. It can be difficult to handle as it is springy and frays badly.
f. WOOL WORSTED- A light and strong cloth, made from good-quality thin, firm filament fibers. Always
steam prior to cutting out as the fabric may shrink slightly after having been stretched around a bolt
Cotton fabrics
One of the most versatile and popular of all fabrics, cotton is a natural fiber that comes from the seed
pods, or bolls, of the cotton plant. It is thought that cotton fibers have been in use since ancient times.
CHARACTERISTICS OF COTTON
Often referred to as the queen of all fabrics, silk is made from the fibers of the silkworm’s cocoon. This
strong and luxurious fabric dates back thousands of years to its first development in China, and the secret of silk
production was well protected by the Chinese until 300AD. Silk fabrics can be very fine or thick and chunky. They
need careful handling as some silk fabrics can be easily damaged.
CHARACTERISTICS OF SILK
a. CHIFFON- a very strong and very fine, transparent silk with a plain weave. Will gather and ruffle well.
Difficult to handle.
b. CREPE DE CHINE- medium weight, with an uneven surface due to the twisted silk yarn used. Drapes well
and often used on bias-cut garments.
c. DUCHESS SATIN- a heavy, expensive satin fabric used almost exclusively for special-occasion wear.
Cutting out: use a nap layout Seams: plain, with pinked edges Thread: polyester all-purpose thread
d. DUPIONI- similar to shantung but woven using a much smoother yarn to reduce the amount of nubbly
bits in the weft.
e. SHANTUNG- the most popular of all the silks. A distinctive weft yarn with many nubbly bits. Available in
hundreds of colors. Easy to handle, but it does fray badly.
f. GEORGETTE -a soft, filmy silk fabric that has a slight transparency. Does not crease easily.
g. ORGANZA- a sheer fabric with a crisp appearance that will crease easily.
h. SATIN- silk with a satin weave that can be very light to quite heavy in weight.
Linen fabrics
Linen is a natural fiber that is derived from the stem of the flax plant. It is available in a variety of qualities
and weights, from very fine linen to heavy suiting weights. Coarser than cotton, it is sometimes woven with
cotton as well as being mixed with silk.
CHARACTERISTICS OF LINEN
a. COTTON AND LINEN BLEND- two fibers may have been mixed together in the yarn or may have mixed
warp and weft yarns. It has lots of texture in the weave. Silk and linen mix is treated in the same way
b. DRESS-WEIGHT LINEN- a medium-weight linen with a plain weave. The yarn is often uneven, which
causes slubs in the weave.
c. PRINTED LINENS- many linens today feature prints or even embroidery. The fabric may be light to
medium weight, with a smooth yarn that has few slubs.
d. SUITING LINEN- a heavier yarn is used to produce a linen suitable for suits for men and women. Can be
a firm, tight weave or a looser weave.
Manmade fabrics
The term “manmade” applies to any fabric that is not 100 percent natural. Many of these fabrics have
been developed over the last hundred years, which means they are new compared to natural fibers. Some
manmade fabrics are made from natural elements mixed with chemicals while others are made entirely from
non-natural substances.
a. ACETATE- introduced in 1924, acetate is made from cellulose and chemicals. The fabric has a slight shine
and is widely used for linings. Acetate can also be woven into fabrics such as acetate taffeta, acetate
satin, and acetate jersey.
CHARACTERISTICS OF ACETATE:
dyes well
can be heat-set into pleats
washes well
b. ACRYLIC- introduced in 1950, acrylic fibers are made from ethylene and acrylonitrile. The fabric
resembles wool and makes a good substitute for machine-washable wool. Often seen as a knitted fabric,
the fibers can be mixed with wool.
CHARACTERISTICS OF ACRYLIC:
little absorbency
tends to retain odors
not very strong
c. NYLON- developed by DuPont in 1938, the fabric takes its name from a collaboration between New York
(NY) and London (LON). Nylon is made from polymer chips that are melted and extruded into fibers. The
fabric can be knitted or woven.
CHARACTERISTICS OF NYLON:
very hard-wearing
does not absorb moisture
washes easily, although white nylon can discolor easily
very strong
d. POLYESTER- one of the most popular of the manmade fibers, polyester was introduced in 1951, made
from petroleum by-products and can take on any form, from a very fine sheer fabric to a thick, heavy
suiting.
CHARACTERISTICS OF POLYESTER:
CHARACTERISTICS OF RAYON:
absorbent
is not static
dyes well
frays badly
f. SPANDEX- introduced in 1958, this is a lightweight, soft fiber than can be stretched 500% without
breaking. A small amount of spandex is often mixed with other fibers to produce wovens with a slight
stretch.
CHARACTERISTICS OF SPANDEX:
INTRODUCTION
Following the correct pattern layout will help ensure that your garment is cut out on grain.
Pinning and cutting your garment carefully will avoid wasting fabric. This lesson will provide the
information you need to lay out, pin, and cut out your pattern pieces.
Fabric of any type must be pre-treated before cutting to avoid later alterations or damage in the
finished garment. The untreated fabric may be of correct size on the first wear, but due to repeated washing
it may shrink and be uncomfortable to the wearer. Grain perfection is another factor which may deform the
silhouette of the garment. These factors must be given due consideration before cutting
In laying out pattern pieces onto the fabric study the direction of the fibers that are woven
into the fabric. It is the grain line of the fabric. This is where the pattern pieces laid out. To locate
the grain line, one should be familiar with the following parts of a woven fabric.
Fabric Folding
Procedure : Lay the fabric on the table with different kinds of folds:
Four Ways of Fabric Folding
1. Lengthwise Center fold- The fabric is folded lengthwise at the center with
the selvage together.
3. Off-center lengthwise fold – The fabric is folded lengthwise with the raw
edges meeting at the center.