Basic Weaves

Introduction
Weaving is a method of textile production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are
interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth. Other methods are knitting, crocheting,
felting, and braiding or plaiting. The longitudinal threads are called the warp and the lateral
threads are the weft or filling. The method in which these threads are inter-woven affects the
characteristics of the cloth. Cloth is usually woven on a loom, a device that holds the warp
threads in place while filling threads are woven through them. A fabric band which meets this
definition of cloth (warp threads with a weft thread winding between) can also be made using
other methods, including tablet weaving, back-strap, or other techniques without looms. The way
the warp and filling threads interlace with each other is called the weave.

During weaving the warp and the weft can be interlaced in a wide variety of ways to give
different weave types. A weave may be characterized by its repeat unit. Basic weaves are those
that require a minimum number of warp and weft yarns to constitute their repeat units, example
plain weave needs just 2 warp and 2 weft yarns. Twill weave needs 3 warp and 3 weft yarns
while satin weave needs a minimum of 5 warp and 5 weft yarns. A large number of weaves can
be derived from these three primary or basic weaves - the latter will be considered in some detail
now. The majority of woven products are created with one of three basic weaves: plain weave,
satin weave, or twill.

PLAIN WEAVE
 Simplest and most inexpensive weave
 Only two harnesses are required
 The weft yarn goes under and over one warp across the width of the fabric
 It can be represented by the symbol 1*1

Examples of fabrics with plain weave are Organdie, Muslin, Cambric, Poplin,
Flannel and Canvas.

Point paper diagram of plain weave

The plain weave has two variations, viz., Rib and Basket.

Rib weave: Instead of a single yarn, a group of yarn is used (as one unit). (a) and (b)
 depicts the rib weave which can be produce in either direction. It may be noted that a weft rib
weave is obtained due to grouping of warp yarns, while a warp rib weave is obtained due to
grouping of warp yarns, while a warp rib weave results due to the grouping of weft yarns.

(a)

(b)

Basket weave
: here, two or more yarns are used in both the warp and filling direction. These groups of yarns
are woven as one, producing a basket effect