TECHWATCH LANKA

ADVANCEMENTS IN TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY

“A vital link between global technology developers and the local technology practitioners”

Newsletter of the Technology Watch Centre (TWC), National Science Foundation

VOL. 6, NO. 2 DECEMBER 2006 ISSN 1391-7897

DuPont Unveils roll-to-roll Digital Printing System

Wilmington, Del.-based DuPont has introduced its grand-format DuPont™ Artistri™ 3320 digital
textile printing system. With its 3.3-meter-wide roll-to-roll printing capability, the new system
enables new digital textile printing applications.

The three primary components of Artistri systems are digital

textile printers, brilliant textile inks, and state-of-the-art color
and control management software. Applications include bedding,
upholstery, window coverings and other interior textiles; flags
and banners; trade-show and point-of-sale displays; apparel,
silk accessories and swimwear; and other applications.

For more information, contact : H. P. Nanda, E-mail : Hara-prasad.Nanda@ind.dupont.com

a unique hydrokinetic concept never previously

NEW DYEING TECHNOLOGY
Innovative Dyeing Machine
To understand the importance of the new tech-
nology applied to INNODYE, it is necessary
to analyze the phases that comprise a dyeing
process with regard to the hydro and thermo-
dynamic aspects. In the dyeing process, the main
phases occur simultaneously, and therefore the
velocity of the dyeing will be determined and
depended upon the speed that the dyes diffuse
within the fibers. Such velocity coincides with
the speed of the bath exhaustion. INNODYEV
creates a new kinetic molecular exchange with
the translational motion of the treatment bath;
considered in the industry dyeing treatment pro-
cess. In present technologies applied to dyeing
machines, there are well defined conceptual
parameters which are influential to the final
results obtained.
A parameter of certain importance is the
hydrodynamic limit layer, that is, the resultant
between two speeds, and precisely the speed
of the fabric flow and the speed of the treatment
bath; the latter always superior to the fabric
speed. INNODYEV by introducing this new
bath translational motion technology interacts
directly on the hydrodynamic limit layer,
decreasing considerably the speed difference
ADVANCES IN TEXTILE PRINTING
“STRIDE INTO THE FUTURE BEFORE
IT ARRIVES”
TECHNOLOGY WATCH CENTER (TWC)
TECHNOLOGY DIVISION
National Science Foundation, No. 47/5,
Maitland Place, Colombo 07, SRI LANKA.
Tel/Fax - 2676766
E-mail : twclanka@nsf.ac.lk
www.twc.nsf.ac.lk
TECHWATCH LANKA STAFF:
Manager - Technology Watch Centre -
Dr. Saman Fernando
Coordinator - Textile Technology
Mr. J.G. Shantha Siri
Computer Application Assistant -
Ms. Radeesha Millawithana
between the fabric and the treatment bath. In
this way, the resistances encountered by dye
molecules in motion towards the fabric are
reduced. The dyeing and treatment speed will
be as much higher as is much smaller the
“thickness” of the hydrodynamic limit layer.
INNODYE with the bath translational motion,
increases the reaction speed between the fabric
and treatment bath, and reduces the
hydrodynamic limit layer. This result is obtained
with the introduction of a unique technology of
its type that moves the fabric by an alternated
motion and transversal to the conventional bath
flow. This movement ensures a continuous
mixing and uniformity of the bath, while
approaching the real conditions of operation to
those achievable in laboratory.
For more information, contact :
Email: info@innodye.it
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On-demand Inkjet Printing System
The revolutionary SIP-100F and SIP-160F on-
demand inkjet printing system from Shima Seiki,
enables beautiful full color printing on a variety
of fabrics, quickly and easily using design data
created on our SDS-ONE apparel design
system. SIP prints directly onto the fabric,
thereby supporting quick response for
customized designs in small lots. Not just limited
to textiles and circular knit fabrics, it features a
height-adjustable printing head for dimensional
flat-knitted fabrics and even finished garments.
With its special inks, vivid high-resolution full-
color images can be printed with excellent tonal
range, all while maintaining the original softness
of each kind of fabric.
For more information, contact :
Email: info@shimaseiki.co.jp
BASF, Stork Unveil Pigment Ink
Solution
Germany-based BASF AG and The
Netherlands-based Stork Digital Imaging BV
have partnered to develop a simple-to-use, high-
performance pigment ink solution for digital
textile printing. The new solution provides a
larger color range and higher-speed
performance than conventional solutions, as well
as a stable, smooth, constant ink supply, even
for long production runs, according to the
companies.
The solution has received Stork’s U See®
accreditation, which guarantees reproductions
made anywhere or anytime will be exact. The
ink is calibrated for use with Stork PrinterServer
software to ensure reproducibility. Thus,
customers may print sampling fabrics locally and
TECHWATCH LANKA
NEW TECHNOLOGY OF KNITTING
be assured final fabrics that may be processed
in another part of the world will match the
samples exactly. Stork and BASF also offer
global support networks to assist customers.
“Our machine knowledge coupled with BASF’s
know-how in pigment ink forms an ideal strategic
fit,” said Fred Boes, managing director, Stork
Digital Imaging. “We are delighted to be pooling
our resources in this way, and look forward to
building a long-standing relationship that will
help us both deliver enhanced solutions to the
textile printing industry.”
For more information, contact :
Telephone: +49 (0)621 60-0
Telefax: +49 (0)621 60-42525
Knitting in Nanometers
Yarn spun from carbon nanofibres could be
knitted together to make artificial muscles for
robot soldiers, say U.S. and Australian
researchers.
The team says its unusually long fibres could
also be used to make bandages that help injured
limbs move again, tighten to stem bleeding or
send a signal to say someone was hurt. The
scientists used the ancient technology of
spinning wool to create a long yarn that conducts
electricity. The researchers led by Dr Mei
Zhang from the University of Texas at Dallas,
said their technology could be used to make a
yarn several kilometres long.
Previously scientists had only been able to create
short fibres, usually less than a millimetre in
length, the researchers said. Australian team
member Ken Atkinson from CSIRO Textile &
Fibre Technology said the nanotubes’
structurewas similar to a square of hexagonal
wire coiled up to form a cylinder.
DECEMBER 2006. VOL. 6, NO. 2 TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY
The researchers created the yarn by growing a
mat of fibres on a substrate, called a nanotube
forest. A sharp pointed instrument then pulled
out the fibres along the plane of the substrate.
Atkinson said the tubes then formed into a
“conga line”, and were twisted and wrapped
around each other as they were pulled.
According to researchers nanotubes were
usually grown to about 300 micrometres. And
scientists could not make nanotube yarn with
continuous lengths without blending the fibres
with other materials. There are reports of
nanotubes grown up to one metre. With spinning
one can get pure nanotube yarn as long as you
want, Atkinson said. The researchers were
working with the U.S. Defence Department to
develop artificial muscles based on nanotubes.
The researchers suggest that the muscles would
replace heavy hydraulics in robots working in
battlefields. And a fuel cell would drive the
muscles to expand and contract. Practical
applications of the long nanofibres were still five
years off. But the strength and breaking strain
of the textile was “already in the same ballpark”
as Kevlar, the material used for bulletproof
vests. Atkinson said the team hoped to make it
even stronger.
Building better fibres
A related technology for creating pure carbon
nanotubes was described in the same issue of
Science. Japanese researchers from the
National Institute of Advanced Industrial
Science and Technology said they improved the
method by adding water. This enhanced the
activity and lifetime of catalysts used to make
the tubes and produced nanotube material with
a purity above 99.8%, the researchers said.
For more information, contact :Dr. .Ken
Atkinson, Email: Ken.Atkinson@csiro.au
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 The Next Generation in Computerized
Flatbed Knitting
A synthesis of all of Shima Seiki’s experience
and know-how, the new FIRST series “Next
Generation” computerized flatbed knitting
machines offer tremendous capability previously
unimagined in the world of knitting. Everything
from full-fashioning, rib shaping to 3-dimensional
shaping, as well as WHOLEGARMENT ®
production can be performed. This all-purpose
capability is made possible through the
development of our revolutionary new
SlideNeedle ® which offers remarkable
improvements in product quality, variety and
productivity. Other features such as the Contra-
Sinker, Pulldown Device and Yarn Carrier
Kickback Device all contribute to even further
distinction as the knitting machine for the 21st
Century. FIRST is available in three different
bed-lengths, as well as triple- or four-cam
versions for even more flexibility.
For more information, contact :
Email ;info@shimaseiki.co.jp
The Seamless Glove Knitting Machine
for Ultrafine Gauge Applications
Shima Seiki’s NewSFG computerized seamless
glove machine has gained a large following with
users worldwide, thanks to its quality, reliability
and unparalleled technology developed
especially for fine and ultrafine gauge
applications. In addition to its already impressive
lineup of 10, 13 and 15 gauges, the NewSFG
has now evolved to include an 18 gauge
machine. The NewSFG’s proven sinker system
and yarn insertion device carry on the traditionof
producing seamless gloves which conform better
to the shape of hands with smoother rounded
fingertips.
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These quality production benefits, combined with
the precision engineering required for 18G
knitting, can produce ultrafine gloves so thin with
such a natural and comfortable fit, at times you
may not even notice you are wearing gloves at
all. Fine and ultrafine guage gloves are perfect
for high-precision work, medical applications,
and coated gloves.
For more information, contact :
Email: info@shimaseiki.co.jp
NEW TECHNOLOGIES OF VALUE
ADDTION
Textile design today is influenced by industrial
research projects into new fiber technologies
for sportswear, industrial textiles, automation
and flexible manufacturing systems.
Industrial materials and techniques previously
developed for completely different purposes are
being utilized and expanded by textile artists
and designers. The continuing concern for the
environment claims the interest of those
working with protective, recycled and
responsive materials. Performance apparel
represents one of the fastest growing sectors
of the international textile and clothing industry.
Technical textiles were known for their
performance and functionality, whilst traditional
textiles for their aesthetics. This distinction is
no longer relevant. The two sectors have
converged, and increasingly the so-called high-
tech technical fabrics and apparel designed for
high performance have been developed.
Specialty textiles use some specific
technologies in addition to the conventional
technologies so that the product would add
value to a specific ‘attribute’ or function and/
or effect.
TECHWATCH LANKA
There are many attributes which can be
classified broadly.
1. Aesthetic Effects (Visual)
Fiber blends, mélange effect, fancy
yarns,surface treatments, woven textures,
color development, dye-ability, patterns,
luster etc.
2. Aesthetic Effects (Sensory)
Friction/ smoothness, bending, compression,
fragrant etc.
3. Wearing Comfort
Weight, stretch, static charge dissipation/
reduction of clinging, slip-ability etc.
4. Comfort - Micro-climate control
Warmth, coolness, wicking of sweat,
reduction of next-to-skin humidity and
stickiness, breathable waterproofing etc.
5. Easy care
Dimensional stability, wrinkle resistance/
recovery, easy wash, easy dry, anti pilling,
anti soil, moth proofing, anti bacterial
6. Garment formability
Formability, sew-ability, non fraying, non-
deforming etc.
7. Protective aspects
Hygienic- anti bacterial, deodorizing; safety
anti UV, healing, flame retardant;
environmental friendliness and non-toxic etc.
Schoeller of Switzerland introduced ultra-light
wind protection with matt sheen effects, bi-
colour, high-sheen satins and color mixes. Many
Schoeller fabrics combine a mixture of these
features such as semi-transparent fabrics,
bonded aluminums with metal sparkling effects
in 3D structures, nano-sphere finishes or mirror
and glow-in-the-dark effects. Metallics are used
extensively in European collections for next year,
from silver to metallic and aluminum to gold-
vaporized fabrics.
DECEMBER 2006. VOL. 6, NO.2 TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY
Luminex is a new kind of fabric that glows,
literally. It is not shiny, it gives off its own light.
Designers took tiny, flexible optical fibers
developed for high-energy physics experiments
and wove them into ordinary fabric. Power
comes from an ordinary battery sewn into the
cloth. Luminex is being used in stage costumes,
handbags and curtains as well as clothing.
Many technologies are available today that tend
to soothe human senses. One of the important
technology in this area is micro-encapsulation.
Microencapsulated fabrics are among the latest
generation of fabrics known as intelligent
fabrics, taking into account the functions they
perform i.e. cosmetic, with a gradual release
of active or volatile micro-capsules for
cosmetic, therapeutic, energy-boosting, stress-
busting, moisturizing or deodorizing, and climatic
fabrics with phase change microcapsules which
are heat-regulating.
Microencapsulation is a process consisting of
encapsulating liquid or solid substances in sealed
micro spheres. These micro spheres which vary
in size between 0.5 and 2000 microns, form a
suspension of tiny droplets surrounded by a thin
polymeric wall protecting the active agent
before it is released. This wall or membrane is
made by emulsion or dispersion of a natural or
synthetic polymer in a carrier liquid. These
microcapsules gradually release active agents
by simple mechanical rubbing which ruptures
the membrane.
There are a variety of fields of application:
underwear and accessories ready-to-wear,
sportswear and casual wear, footwear, bedding.
Micro-encapsulation is also used in thermo-
chromic fabrics i.e. Fabrics (woven or knitted)
with colors which change, appear or disappear
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under the effect of variations in temperature.
The fabrics themselves are not thermo-chromic,
but the colourings are thermo-chromic, and
photo-chromic substances and liquid crystals
are often microencapsulated, particularly for
textile media.
Comfort
Fleeces were among the first fabrics to benefit
from high-quality, high-tech approaches. Malden
Mill’s Polarfleece® is the original synthetic
fleece fabric that forever changed the way the
world dresses for cold weather. This fabric is
soft, comfortable, provides warmth without
weight, is quick drying and durable for long-
lasting good looks. Its high breathability provides
comfort in all activities and does not restrict
the movement of moisture vapors.
Technical fabric manufacturers such as
Heathcoat of UK produce extreme-weather
fleeces, which are used by the military, for
outdoor workwear and also for recreational
sports. Fleeces such as Polartec Wind Pro,
Thermal Pro and Polartec 200 are also
appearing in sports and leisurewear
departments and Menswear retailers, who are
marketing their extra qualities to consumers.
Many of the fabrics, like Thermal Pro, are
increasingly being customised, with different
finishes available, such as water repellence.
Complete moisture-management systems can
be designed “au choix”.
Easy care
Teflon and similar treatments are used both as
a stain-repellent and stain-release mechanism,
prolonging the life of a garment and making it
more saleable. Translated into the fashion arena,
Teflon on suiting fabrics is becoming a selling
point, found at all levels of the market, with the
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increased cost apparently easily absorbed by
the end users and also recognized on swing
tickets. DuPont’s Teflon® can now also be
applied to all types of yarn. The coating is
invisible, it does not affect the yarn visually or
physically, is breathable and has easy care
properties.
Nanotechnology is however, the new buzzword
for the moment in almost all industries. Schoeller
has a NanoSphere finish that is water-, dirt-
and stain-repellent and can be applied to a
diverse range of fabrics, giving an extra
dimension to fashion fabrics. Water simply runs
off the nano-surface of clothing nor can staining
substances such as ketchup, honey, coffee or
red wine take hold. And even if they fail to run
off of their own accord, the stain can easily be
rinsed off under running water. The first
products from top garment manufacturers as
Berghaus, Bugatti, Hugo Boss, Mammut or Polo
Ralph Lauren are being presented at the
current fairs.
A new elastic fiber with Lycra brand, T-400™
has revolutionized the comfort, hand, stretch and
recovery, wrinkle-resistance, wash ability and
care of contemporary fabrics. This includes
synthetic woven, denims, lightweight cotton,
wool and poly/cottons. T400 has uniform crimp,
resulting in knitwear with a clean, smooth
appearance. Garments have clear stitch
definition and a beautifully soft handle versus
knits made with textured yarns.
Garments with T400 keep their shape, even after
repeated washing and wearing. Sweaters resist
bagging at the elbows so they look new and
feel great. But it is really the denim jeans that
provide the best opportunity for use of T400.
Since T-400™ is chlorine resistant it can
withstand a variety of bleaching and washing
conditions that are not typically used on stretch
TECHWATCH LANKA
denim. The latest treatments, such as antique
finishes, whisker washing and sandblasting can
be applied to garments with excellent results.
What is more, it can even give a more tailored
look as the jeans hold a crease wash after
wash. Jeans containing this fiber are among the
most comfortable, as T-400™ provides a subtle
stretch for comfort and ease of movement.
Garments not only fit well, but retain their shape
wear after wear.
Garmenting process is also eased as fabrics with
T-400™ have minimum shrinkage thereby
simplifying the cutting and sewing process.
Garments stay true to their original size for
enhanced consumer satisfaction.
Protective aspects
The protective aspects of textiles have provided
the most fertile ground for innovative
developments. While the developments have
focused on environmental protection and
personal hygiene, it is the medical and
therapeutic aspects, which have really caught
the fancy of lifestyle product manufacturers.
The wide scope for encapsulation in fabrics has
allowed moisturizers, therapeutic oils such as
Aloe Vera, or even insecticides for tropical
climates to be incorporated into fabrics. Buzz
Off, in the US , is a chemical treatment to
prevent mosquito bites, originally a military
invention that is now being sold worldwide for
cotton fabrics destined for holiday clothing.
Made from permethrin, a man-made form of
the all-natural insect repellent derived from the
chrysanthemum plant. Through a patent-pending
process, Buzz Off insect shield apparel by Orvis
provides protection from biting insects for the
useful life of your clothes.
DECEMBER 2006. VOL. 6, NO.2 TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY
Meanwhile, encapsulation and medical research
moves on, centered around the delivery of
medicines and drug treatments through clothing,
perhaps overnight, to patients.
Antimicrobial treatments began as useful
adjuncts to measures to cut down MRSA, the
pervasive and pernicious hospital super-
infection. Eschler, for instance, is producing a
range of Trevira Bioactive fabrics for use in
the medical field. Its potential for use in
sportswear, underwear and workwear was soon
recognised and now it is becoming a common
treatment for fashion clothing. Trevira Bioactive
was recently made effective for socks, a prime
target that has been difficult to achieve, and
there is great interest in this area. Underwear
is branded at point of sale with labels such as
Silfresh, Trevira’s Bioactive, or Amicor, as it
has been found that customers recognise and
value such quality marks. Technical yarns such
as Meryl Skinlife for bacteriostatic qualities
permanently contain the active substance in the
polymeric matrix.
For more information, contact :
Dr. Sanjay Gupta
E-mail : sgupta34@hotmail.com
DESIGN INNOVATIONS
Thermochromic T-Shirts
Sensory effects are not just limited to specialised
fibers and finishes. The seam-less structure of
whole-garment making technologies using 3D
weaving or knitting technology offers great new
sensorial experience. An example is provided
by the Wholegarment® machines produced by
Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd, which is one of the
leading manufacturers of computerized whole
glove and whole garment flatbed knitting
machines. Their machines are capable of
imparting a range of open and close structures,
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3D effects and contrasting surfaces, to whole
garments. The range includes entire garments
including scarves, hats, jumpers, dresses, skirts,
cardigans, tights, legwarmers and socks. If one
combines those new developments in yarn with
3D knitting it is possible to make exciting new
textiles for garments.
Polar fleece
The latest on the scene is Polartec’s Heat
Technology that provides “Warmth on
Demand®” during stop-and-go activities.
Powered by rechargeable lithium ion batteries,
Polartec Heat panels deliver three modes of
user-adjustable warmth. These panels are very
thin, lightweight, and flexible, and are designed
not to interfere with a garment’s function. They
are also durable and machine washable. By
providing warmth only when needed, this
heating breakthrough reduces the need to add
or subtract layers of clothing as weather or
activity levels change. The panels are activated
by the user with a controller. When resting after
a period of high exertion, the user turns the
panels on. When resuming activity, the user turns
them off, as the body’s increased activity level
provides the necessary warmth to maintain cold
temperature.
Jacket incorporating Polartec’s Warmth
on Demand®
Phase change micro-encapsulation or
OUTLAST technology offers another way of
maintaining body heat. The chemist introduces
a paraffin hydrocarbon-based phase change
material, as it is known, into plastic shells. In
contrast to microcapsules destined for cosmetic
textiles where the membrane must be flexible
enough for gradual release of the product, the
shells used for Outlast are hard to protect the
paraffin based substance from external
elements. Approximately 1,000 microcapsules
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can fit on a single pinhead. The PCM (phase
change material) is ultra-sensitive to
temperature variations. Below 37° the PCM
remains in its solid state. Above this temperature
it turns to liquid storing surplus body heat. It
can then change state an unlimited number of
times. When it solidifies again, the PCM
releases body heat stored in the plastic shells
and distributes it evenly around the body. This
re-heating effect can last several hours but it is
necessary to regularly activate phase changes
passing through periods of re-heating (more or
less intensive activities) and cooling. Fabrics
containing PCM microcapsules are capable of
storing at least 10 times more heat than
untreated products.
PCM microcapsules
A new range of yarn called “Extended
Function” consisting of Polycolon® allows the
body to stay drier for longer periods under
heavy body perspiration. Polycolon® yarns are
about 40 per cent lighter than cotton, and
perform by quickly conducting moisture to the
absorbent surface layers from where it gets
evaporated.
Trevira Bioactive garments for hospitals
Sanitized® is a yarn which has an antibacterial
effect. Its development was encouraged by the
difficulty of eliminating bacteria from clothing.
Sanitized® works by blocking the cell walls of
the bacteria and cause them to starve, keeping
the garment fresh and hygienic. Lenzing Fibres
has launched a new lyocell microfibre based
on Lenzing Low Fibrillation technology, allowing
the ultra-fine fabrics to be processed like
conventional cellulose fabrics, producing fine,
soft fabrics with low allergic properties.
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