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Poznań
City Guide

Poznań with the Kids p.6

No. 53, July – October 2019

Summer in the City p.50

POSNANIA
BEST SHOPPING
& LIFESTYLE
DESTINATION
IN POZNAŃ
240 SHOPS & BOUTIQUES
40 CAFES & RESTAURANTS
POZNAŃ, PLESZEWSKA 1
POSNANIA.EU
 Contents

Poznań

Sneaking in some painless learning at the Porta Posnania Interactive Heritage Centre, p.38. | Photo by Łukasz Gdak / CTK TRAKT.

Foreword 4 Cafés 52
Feature Regional Dishes 54
Poznań with the Kids 6
Restaurants 56
Events 10 Nightlife 68
Arrival & Transport 16 Shopping 78
Maps Health & Services 84
City Map 20
City Centre Map 23 Hotels 86

Sightseeing Index 89
Stary Rynek 26
Old Town Walking Tour 32
Ostrów Tumski 38 DOWNLOAD
Citadel Park 41 OUR APP
Lake Malta 44
Museums 47

Summer in the City 50

3
 Foreword
Happy summer! In this issue we’ve compiled the best of
Poznań’s warm-weather attractions in a new ‘Summer
in the City’ section - check it out on p.50 - and included
our top ice cream (p.7) and beer garden (p.72)
recommendations. We’re also hoping to make life easier
for those travelling with children by introducing a list
of family-friendly suggestions (find it on p.6), which will
become a permanent part of the guide.
As per usual, there’s also a packed calendar of cultural
events to catch - from al fresco film screenings at Stary
Browar (p.10) to yoga in the park (p.10), and from the
lakeside #NaFalach music festival (p.14) to a Polish
rendition of the Hindu Holi festival (p.11). If summer
rains start pouring down, opt instead for one of Poznań’s
many temporary exhibitions (p.14) - like ‘Mission to
the Moon’, a presentation of stereographic Moon landing
photos at the vintage Kaiserpanorama (p.14) - or explore
the museums (p.47).
As always, feel free to send us comments and questions
through our facebook page (/poznaninyourpocket) or
via e-mail (poland@inyourpocket.com). Enjoy summer
in Poznań!
Born in Upper Silesia, Janina
Krzysiak spent her formative
years outside of Philadelphia, PA,
before moving back to Poland
to indulge her love for cheap air
travel, walkable cities, and Eastern
European nostalgia. When she’s
not writing and editing travel
guides, she moonlights as a
particle physicist. No, really.
4
COVER STORY
In this issue we’ve decided to stay
close to the main train station and
showcase one of Poznań’s hidden
architectural treasures: the 1910
Concordia Printing House, which
now houses the Concordia Design
studio. Photo by Mateusz Chrostek.
PUBLISHER & STAFF
Publisher
IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k.
ul. Karmelicka 46/51, 31-128 Kraków
iyp.com.pl
poland@inyourpocket.com
Circulation
15,000 copies published 3 times per year
Writer & Editor: Janina Krzysiak
Sales: Agata Urbanowicz (+48) 606 749 642
Events: Monika Boguszewska-Stopka (+48) 882 079 723,
Agata Janik, Katarzyna Mrozewska-Fenz
Research: Dominika Sosnowska, Patrycja Ples
Layout & Maps: Tomáš Haman
Social Media & Marketing: Juan Sarabia
Copyright Notice
Content and photos copyright IYP City Guides Sp. Z o.o Sp.k.
unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be
reproduced without written permission from the publisher.
The brand name In Your Pocket and maps are used under
license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, LT,
tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
OUTLET FACTORY POZNAN, DEBIECKA 1, LUBON
Merrily going round on the Lake Malta Carousel (p.45). | Courtesy of Malta Ski

Poznań
with the Kids
Wondering how to not bore your children to tears during
your Poznań trip? Look no further than our handy guide.

Tots in tow? That might mean less time marveling at
historical landmarks and more time hunting down ice
cream, and wining (and dining) replaced by whining, but
Poznań offers plenty of ways to keep little ones occupied.
Here we’ve compiled our recommendations for making
your trip enjoyable for the whole family; and should you
urgently need to find the closest playground, we’ve marked
those on our maps as well .
First up, a trusted crowd-pleaser: everyone loves seeing the
mechanical billy goats emerging from a window on the
Town Hall tower (p.27) to butt heads at noon (daily), and it
might be the only thing your kids really remember from
your Old Town tour. Nearby, the Croissant Museum offers
a hands-on opportunity to learn about Poznań’s favourite
pastry, and Blubry6D will take kids on a trip through local
legends while simultaneously melting everyone’s eyes
(oh, the fluorescence). If you’re determined to get some
serious sightseeing in, consider visiting the Porta Posnania
Interactive Heritage Centre in Ostrów Tumski (p.38), which
has prepared a special audioguide tour for children ages 5-11.
For good, old fashioned outdoor fun, we recommend a day
at Lake Malta (p.44), which boasts a plethora of attractions
like the Pyrland Park ropes course, the Maltese Baths
water park, a playground, a carousel, a roller coaster, mini
golf, tobogganing, and a mini railway which will take you
straight to the New Zoo, plus standard swimming and
paddling.
Check out the listings in this section, and best of luck!
POZNAŃ CROISSANT MUSEUM
Poznań’s signature pastry is the rogal świętomarciński -
St. Martin’s croissant - a sweet treat traditionally made
for St. Martin’s Day. Not only can you find this creation in
bakeries around the city, there is also a dedicated museum
which lets visitors learn about the rogal’s history in a fun
and interactive way and try making their own. 50-minute
English-language tours take place at 13:45 daily in July and
August, Tue-Sun in September, and Sat-Sun in October.
QI‑7, Stary Rynek 41/2 (entrance from ul. Klasztorna
23), tel. (+48) 690 07 78 00, www.rogalowemuzeum.pl.
Admission 19zł, 17zł/person for families.
Poznań Croissant Museum
Poznań with the Kids
ICE CREAM  NEW
GIOVANNI VOLPE
Arguably the best ice cream in city centre, this small
manufacture churns out delicious, all-natural Italian
gelato and vegan sorbets in a variety of rotating
flavours, plus coffe, tea, and - in the winter - fresh pączki.
Second location at ul. Głogowska 47a. Recommended.
QI‑7, ul. Gołębia 3, tel. (+48) 607 35 18 63. Open
11:00-19:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 11:00-19:30. B
LODOVNIA
Located in a quirky spiked booth at the Stary Browar
shopping centre (known both for its art and its
restaurants), this ‘boutique ice cream shop’ does not
only traditional, all-natural dairy ice cream and sorbets,
but also signature macaroons with an ice cream filling
(called ‘lodovniki’), and gorgeous popsicles with large
pieces of fruit and edible flowers. The flavours change
from day to day, but we were most impressed with
the carrot-apple concoction and a ‘hyćka’ (traditional
elderflower cordial) sorbet.  QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42.
Open 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. T­U­B­6
LODY CHWALISZEWO
Though the interior here is lacklustre and the ice
cream doesn’t quite match what the comptetitors
have to offer, the nostalgia factor seems to be big for
Poznaniaks. With the original locale in the Chwaliszewo
district and offshoots at ul. Ostrówek 7, ul. Katowicka 31,
and ul. Kramarska 26, this traditional ice creamery offers
14 rotating flavours (20 at the Kramarska location), plus
lemonade, ice coffee, waffles, and other treats.QJ‑7,
ul. Chwaliszewo 7/8, tel. (+48) 796 16 18 93. Open
11:00-20:00. B­6
LODZIARNIA KOLOROWA
The ice creamery with the longest lines in Poznań,
Kolorowa keeps the customers coming back, but the
flavours (which change daily) are uneven - some are
heavenly, others just okay. If you’d rather skip the wait,
try Giovanni Volpe instead.QF‑7, ul. 27 Grudnia 21.
Open 10:00-21:00.
7
 Poznań with the Kids
CHOCOLATE MUSEUM
Joining the Croissant Museum is another sweet temptation
under an educational guise: the Chocolate Museum
where kids of all ages (including those quite grown and
greying) can learn about cacao tree plantations, the
history of chocolate, and chocolate-making techniques
while sampling decadent creations. The guided tours last
an estimated 50 minutes and include workshops during
which participants create their own chocolate bars - to take
home, of course (if you can refrain from wolfing it down on
the spot).QH‑7, ul. Wrocławska 12, tel. (+48) 502 45 41
77, www.muzeumczekolady.edu.pl. Open 10:00-18:00.
35zł/person, group of more than ten 29zł/person. Muzeum Czekolady

BLUBRY6D presumably, is to leave you forever wandering the LSD maze

If you ever thought of dropping some acid with your young from hell. The whole experience lasts around 30 minutes,
children, here’s the legal way to do it. Put on a pair of 3D but you’re almost guaranteed to lose all sense of space and
glasses and immerse yourself in a hallucinatory, bright- time.QI‑6, ul. Wroniecka 6, tel. (+48) 61 307 04 46, www.
neon labyrinth of spastic trees, deranged mushrooms, and blubry6d.pl. Open 10:00-18:00. Admission 17/15zł. U
dizzying miscellany while listening to a narration about
two Poznań legends (offered in English, Polish, German,
and Spanish). Do try to stay focused, as the staff will quiz
you at the end of each room - the punishment for failing,

THE ZOOS

Blubry6D

THE OLD ZOO (STARE ZOO)
Dating back to 1874, the Old Zoo still has some
picturesque vintage pavilions, but most of the critters
have been carted off to the New Zoo, and the Old Zoo
has largely been reshaped as a public park. There is,
however, a modern Reptile House here, where you can
see Komodo dragons, pythons, and caimans.QD‑7, ul.
Zwierzyniecka 19, tel. (+48) 61 848 08 47, www.zoo.
poznan.pl. Open 09:00-19:00. Admission free; 8/6zł
for the Reptile House.
PYRLAND PARK
Open till October. Located on the east end of Lake Malta,
this adventure park features 4 ropes courses (3 large ones
and one smaller one for kids over 3 years old) and two Tyrolkas
- sweet 70m zip lines. If you need a rest afterwards, there are
two designated picnic areas with bonfire and BBQ options.
Qul. Abpa A. Baraniaka/Chartowo, tel. (+48) 660 04 89
01, www.pyrlandpark.pl. Opening hours vary depending
on the month. Rope courses 25-36zł each, or 35-65zł for
combination; kids 19zł; family ticket (2 adults plus 1 kid)
75-85zł. Tyrolka 19zł (10zł with ropes course ticket).

THE NEW ZOO (NOWE ZOO)

The much larger of the two Poznań zoos, the New Zoo
houses over 2,000 beasts representing 140 species, many
of which live in recereations of their natural habitats. For
more information, see p.46.Qul. Krańcowa 81 (Nowe
Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 877 35 17, www.zoo.poznan.pl.
Open 9:00-19:00. March-October admission Mon-Fri
18/10zł, Sat-Sun 24/12zł; family ticket (2 adults and 4
kids) 35zł Mon-Fri, 50zł Sat-Sun. U­
Pyrland Park

8
 Events
Summer Outdoor Films at Stary Browar
EVENTS BY DATE
03.07 - 28.08 » SUMMER OUTDOOR FILMS
AT STARY BROWAR
Summer is the time to do everything outdoors. Watching
films is no exception. Popular outdoor film screenings are
held all over Poland with Poznań having their very own at
Stary Browar. Recent films will be shown every Wednesday
at 21:00 and preceded by a lecture from one of the local film
experts.QG‑9, Stary Browar, ul. Półwiejska 42, tel. (+48)
61 859 60 50, Admission free, www.starybrowar5050.
com. Every Wednesday.
03.07 - 30.08 » SUMMER CINEMA AT KINO
PAŁACOWE
The Palace Movie Theatre invites movie buffs every
Wednesday and Friday at 6.30 pm to screenings of  last
season’s most popular Polish and foreign movies. The
returning winners of international film festivals and those
less known are certainly worth seeing. Catch up with
your movies this summer at the Palace Theatre!QF‑7,
Pałacowe, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82 (Zamek Cultural Centre),
tel. (+48) 61 646 52 60, Tickets 12zł, www.kinopalacowe.
pl. Every Wednesday & Friday.
02.07 - 30.09 » YOGA ON THE GRASS
Starting in June, every Tuesday at 6 pm anyone can
enjoy outdoor yoga classes taught by the Magiel Fitness
instructors in Stary Browar Park. Bring your own mat and
10
comfy clothes and practice asanas with many other yoga
lovers. Yoga is truly for everyone - beginners and advanced
practitioners. The leitmotif of this year’s yoga extravaganza
is “Honey Summer” - we are hoping to help you expand
your knowledge about bees. But above all, we hope you
will relax doing yoga and later on enjoy the outdoor film
repertoire we have prepared for you in July. Welcome to
Stary Browar Summer!QG‑9, Stary Browar, ul. Półwiejska
42, tel. (+48) 61 859 60 50, Admission free, www.
starybrowar5050.com.
27.07 - 28.07 » LUXFEST
LuxFest is a two-day family music festival, where parents,
grandparents and kids can mix together thanks to the
plethora of music and art workshops everybody regardless
of age can participate in. The festival opens with a music-
filled Saturday, with a concert performed by Coma and
Luxtorpeda. Sunday offers LuxArt, the family art zone, where
invited artists and educators lead art workshops designed
to promote art in a relaxed friendly atmosphere. Family
activities will be accompanied by music performed by the
Ukrainian children’s group Kowczeg Noja.QStrzeszyńskie
Lake, ul. Koszalińska (Strzeszynek), tel. (+48) 61 848 31
29, Admission free.
09.08 17:00-12:00 » HIP HOP FESTIVAL
The Hip Hop Festival is coming again to Poznań!  The artists
line-up includes Paluch, Mr. KęKę, Guzior, Szpaku, Tymek,
Steelyone & Kool Kid Dre (NY), Joda, OKI and Jan-rapowanie.
 Events
It is going to be a hip-hop and rap extravaganza!  Although
hip-hop music and rap are often intertwined,  there is a
distinction. Rap describes a type of music that includes
vocals, while hip-hop refers to a cultural phenomenon that
includes graffiti, breakdancing and fashion in addition to
music, which is mainly instrumental in nature. However you
define it, the concert promises to be fun!QN‑8, Lake Malta,
ul. Wiankowa 3, tel. (+48) 61 876 60 11, Tickets 59-99zł.

22.08 - 08.09 » GUITAR ACADEMY FESTIVAL

The 12th edition of Guitar Academy Festival is the
only musical event of this rank in Europe focused
exclusively on the guitar. The programme includes not
only fantastic concerts but also lectures and master
classes offered to willing participants. The performers
include  Judicael Perroy  (France),  Davide Giovanni
Tomasi (Italy), Adriano del Sal (Italy), Duo Karuna (Germany),
Jaracas (Poland),  Ensemble del Passato (Poland),  and many
others.QAdmission free, www.akademiagitary.pl.

02.09 20:00 » SOYKA

Stanisław Soyka is a prominent Polish jazz and pop
singer, author of more than 30 albums. He has
developed his own  recognisable, original musical
language and he continually surprises his fans with
new musical  interpretations. The author of well-known
compositions, Tolerance and Play It Again, he returns this
year with his new album Muzyka i Słowa (Music and Words)
which he is going to promote during his music tour that will
visit several Polish cities this Fall, starting on 02.09.2019 in
Poznań and ending in Wrocław on 10.01.2020.QF‑6, Great
Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. (+48) 61 659 02 31, Tickets from
69zł, www.goodtaste.pl.

07.09 15:00-21:00 » HOLI FESTIVAL OF

COLOURS
A modern version of an ancient Hindu festival that
celebrates the triumph of good over evil, this is a high-
HALKA
energy event full of music, dancing, and of course, dazzling
colors! Starting in the afternoon and running into the 14th September –
evening, a cloud of colorful powder erupts into the air season inauguration,
(don’t worry, it’s safe) every hour as the crowd enjoys Poznań Opera House
live entertainment and DJs while spreading good karma.
Expect to be vibrantly messy by the time you leave. This 20th September –
free event is now in its 6th year and will take place in Jan
livestream Opera Vision,
Kasprowicz Park.QAdmission free.
National Opera in Warsaw
07.09 14:00-19:00 » THE COLOR RUN HERO
TOUR 1st October –
The Color Run celebrates its 5th birthday! 5 years of concert version,
colorful  powdered fun! Entire families are welcome to Berliner Philharmonie
run, walk, jump or dance the 5 km distance, and enjoy the
afterparty plus many surprises at the finish line. It does not
matter how old or athletic you are, you can join the run! www.opera.poznan.pl
Grandparents bring your  grandkids, parents come with
your children. (kids under 10 can participate for free minus
runner’s package). Join the Color Run!QN‑8, Lake Malta,
ul. Wiankowa 3, tel. (+48) 61 876 60 11, Tickets from 82zł,
www.thecolorrun.pl.
11
 Events
14.09, 20.09 19:00 » HALKA
If you’re planning on visiting the opera during your stay in
The best Poznań Poland, we recommend going for something authentically
Polish - in this case, Halka, an 1848 opera by composer
Stanisław Moniuszko, with a libretto by poet Włodzimierz
has to offer Wolski. A tale about the tragic love of highlander girl
Halka’s love for noble-born Janusz, it depicts scenes of

in one great app 19th-century Polish highlanders and nobility.QF‑6, Great

Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. (+48) 61 659 02 31, Tickets
6-100zł, www.opera.poznan.pl.

15.09 19:00 » DIRE STRAITS

SYMPHONICALLY
Dire Straits Symphonically, the unique project by  Krzysztof
Herdzin (arrangement), Kuba Badach (vocal), and Marek
Napiórkowski (guitar) returns in concert. The project fuses
rock music with symphony to deliver a sound that will
delight the most sophisticated audience member. „Money
for Nothing”, „Sultans of Swing”, „Walk of Life”, „Brothers in
Arms”, „Your Latest Trick”, and „Private Investigations” are
just a few of the newly interpreted compositions that
will be performed at the concert.  Robert Kubiszyn (bass
guitar) Tomasz Kałwak (piano), and Paweł Dobrowolski
(percussion) will accompany the band.QAula UAM,
ul. Wieniawskiego 1, Tickets 99-159zł, www.goodtaste.pl.

22.09 20:00-23:00 » HANNA BANASZAK

Hanna Banaszek is a Polish jazz singer, a poet, and a native
of Poznań. The celebrated artist is known for such hits
as “In my magical house”, “I don’t have time for you, sir”
and “Samba before parting”. She collaborated with such
giants of Polish music as Jeremi Przybora, Jerzy Wasowski,
Zbigniew  Górny, Jonasz Kofta, Wojciech  Młynarski, Jan
Kanty Pawluśkiewicz and Zbigniew Preisner. Her concert
will be nothing short of a sophisticated musical experience.
QF‑7, Blue Note Jazz Club, ul. Kościuszki 79, tel. (+48) 61
851 04 08, Tickets 65-85zł.

City Essentials 22.09 11:00, 22.09 18:00, 23.09 11:00, 23.09

Only our favourite places
Works offline, incl. maps
Free download
Incl. dozens of other cities
www.iyp.me/app
18:00 » ALICE IN WONDERLAND
The show Alice in Wonderland, a ballet-operatic-acrobatic
interpretation of Lewis Carroll’s story, takes viewers through
the looking-glass and into the dreamlike world of a child’s
imagination. The journey is full of unforgettable aesthetic
experiences, musical inspirations, and choreographic
enchantments. The spectacle is made unique by the fact
that students from Poznań’s artistic schools perform in it
alongside professionals. It is an example of a multi-faceted
artistic dialogue between the childish and the grown-up.
QF‑6, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. (+48) 61 659 02
31, Tickets 12-130zł available at www.opera.poznan.pl
or in box office (Mon – Sat, 1 p.m – 7 p.m, Sundays and
holidays: 4 p.m – 6 p.m), www.opera.poznan.pl.

27.09, 28.09 19:00 » FIDDLER ON THE ROOF

Chances are your time on this earth means you’ve come in
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S contact with Fiddler on the Roof in one way or another—
either you’ve seen it live (as it’s one of the longest-running
Broadway shows in history) or you’ve seen the movie (because
12
 Events
at some point in your life you’ve owned a TV). But have you
seen it performed by top-class actors in Poznań? Well, there’s a
first time for everything. (Or a second, or a third...) This musical,
set in Imperial Russia in 1905, is a story about love, faith, family,
and the tensions brought on by the need for preservation of
Jewish traditions and culture. Language: PolishQF‑6, Great
Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. (+48) 61 659 02 31, Tickets 15-
150zł, www.opera.poznan.pl.

28.09 18:00 » DOSKOZZZA TOUR 2K19

Dozkozzza 2K19 tour promotes Stachursky’s  new album
which is a part of a musical triptych together with his
previous albums, 1999 and 2009. Stachursky’s  cult single
1999 ensured his position (and quite a large following) as
certainly one of the more eccentric figures on the Polish
music scene. His concert promises to be the electro-
sensation, the “neovix”  trip like you never experienced
before!QTama Club, ul. Niezłomnych 2, Tickets from
59zł, www.tamaklub.pl.

04.10, 05.10 19:00 » OPHELIA

Ophelia is an one act opera written by Jerzy Fryderyk
Wojciechowski based on Stanisław Wyspiański’s drama The
Death of Ophelia. The opera is written for two soloists but
Wojciechowski adds the third voice - Britney Spears, who is
juxtaposed with the stereotypical image of a woman (existing
within the traditional patriarchal arrangement). The opera is
born in the present era of social and political changes women
all over the world fight for. The role of any form of art is to
expose new social and political views and their relation to the
existing reality. The new Ophelia is not searching for empathy
- she shames us.QF‑6, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. (+48)
61 659 02 31, Tickets 15-20zł, www.opera.poznan.pl.

06.10 18:00, 08.10 19:00 » TRAVIATA

La Traviata by  Giuseppe Verdi exposes the great
moral and social dilemmas of the 19th-century world:
prostitution, disease, and human passion. Verdi set it
all to contemporary music: the waltzes and polkas that
accompanied the forbidden pleasures of booze and
sensuality and encouraged moral corruption through their
rhythms. Directed by Marek Weiss and choreographed by
Emil Wesołowski, this production of La Traviata is a must
see!QF‑6, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. (+48) 61 659 02
31, Tickets 12-130zł, www.opera.poznan.pl.

15.10 - 20.10 » OFF CINEMA:

INTERNATIONAL DOCUMENTARY FILM
FESTIVAL
Off Cinema is just what you’d expect: a showcase of hand-
picked underground films and documentaries. The festival
aims to promote the development of documentary cinema
in three areas: presentation, education, and reflection.  At
stake are three coveted gold, silver, and bronze “Castle”
prizes. This year the submissions reached a record level
of 2512 films from all over the world. The winners will be
announced mid-August.QF‑7, ZAMEK Culture Centre,
ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 646 52 60, Tickets
undecided at the moment, www.offcinema.pl.
13
 Events
EXHIBITIONS
UNTIL 31.08 » MISSION TO THE MOON
The Poznań Fotoplastikon presents the 3D photographs
taken by the astronauts during their trip to the
Moon. They were taken using the specially designed
cameras - the astronauts were taught to take so-
called sequential  stereoscopic photographs which
gave an illusion of a three-dimensional image. The
photographs come from the album co-authored by David
J. Eicher and Brian May (the band Queen’s guitarist).QG‑7,
Poznań Kaiserpanorama, ul. Ratajczaka 44, Admission
2/5zł, www.poznan.pl.
FESTIVAL #NAFALACH
UNTIL 31.12 » TY BAMBRZE!
300 years ago the settlers from Bamberg arrived in the Greater
Poland region. The exhibition is an occasion to reflect upon
relations between locals and the settlers. How prevalent were
stereotypes? The exhibition creates an opportunity to extend
knowledge about the settlers and attempts  to answer an
old question  - how much truth is contained in stories and
opinions passed on from generation to generation, and
how distorted and harmful they can potentially be.QJ‑8,
Ethnographic Museum, ul. Mostowa 7, tel. (+48) 61 852 30
06, Admission 5/7zł, www.mnp.art.pl.
UNTIL 28.07 » TIME TREASURES
The Time Treasures exhibition accompanies celebrations
of the centennial anniversary of the Adam Mickiewicz
University, and in particular the Archeology Department.  It
is an occasion to reflect upon the past as well as make plans
for the future. The exhibition and its album publication aim
at presenting the wealth of the Archeology Department’s
academic accomplishments and in particular its
interdisciplinary character.QI‑7, Archaeological Museum,
ul. Wodna 27 (Pałac Górków), tel. (+48) 61 852 82 51,
Admission 4/8zł, www.muzarp.poznan.pl. Open 09:00 -
16:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.

UNTIL 01.09 » HAPPINESS IS BORN IN YOUR

GUTS
The artists inspired by the slogan “Happiness is born in
your guts” explore the idea of human egocentrism and the
Festival #NaFalach Photo: Karolina Kiraga
fact of living and experiencing the world alone, even while
in a relationship. It does not have to be a sad conclusion
Who says you cannot truly enjoy yourself while staying though, on the contrary - it proves humans are capable of
in the city this summer? Festival #NaFalach is the newest a mature approach to life and individual loneliness. QH‑7,
incarnation of the Malta Music Scene offering great Arsenał City Gallery, Stary Rynek 6, tel. (+48) 61 852 95
music performed by a variety of artists. Experience the 02, Admission free, www.arsenal.art.pl. Open 12:00 -
sound of music surrounded by a tranquil scenery at the 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
banks of the Malta and Strzeszyńskie Lakes.
UNTIL 01.09 » THE TALE OF NOVOROSSIYA
12.07 20:00 » HAPPYSAD (NEW RUSSIA)
Lake Malta The title of the exhibition is a quote from the documentary
text “Donbas, Rise Up!” juxtaposing  Putin’s project
19.07 20:00 » NATALIA PRZYBYSZ Novorossiya with an image of Donbas ravaged by war. The
Lake Malta artists Lada Nakonechna, Nikita Kadan, and Mykola Ridnyi
explore the issue of a historical narrative that moves the
26.07 20:00 » DARIA ZAWIAŁOW tragedy of war into the realm of myth, and whether this
Lake Malta process takes away from the painful reality of a historical
event.QH‑7, Arsenał City Gallery, Stary Rynek 6, tel.
02.08 20:00 » RASMENTALISM I ŁONA/ (+48) 61 852 95 02, Admission free, www.arsenal.art.pl.
WEBBER & THE PIMPS Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
Lake Malta
UNTIL 29.09 » SIGN OF POLISH NATURE
10.08 20:00 » ROSALIE, REBEKA The Poznań village outfit is one of the two folk costumes
Lake Malta used in Poznań. Wearing the costume was a manifestation of
Polishness and was even required to be worn by servants in
23.08 20:00 » KAMIL BEDNAREK
homes of Poznanians. The Poznań Ethnographic Museum has
Lake Strzeszynek
the only collection of Poznanian clothing in Poland, keeping
30.08 20:00 » BOKKA, KAMP! this lesser-known costume from being forgotten.  QJ‑8,
Lake Malta Ethnographic Museum, ul. Mostowa 7, tel. (+48) 61 852
30 06, Admission 7/5zł. Tue free., www.mnp.art.pl.
14
 Events
UNTIL 06.10 » POZNAN UHLANS 1919-2019
Poznan Uhlans  (light cavalry  armed with  lances,  sabres,
and pistols) were born in 1918, but were known until 1939
as the 15th Regiment, lovingly called by Poznan’s citizens
“Poznan’s Children”. They were revered  for their part in
the WW1 and WW2. The exhibition displays photographs
depicting their everyday lives, military parades against city
landscapes and details of their military outfits. There are
many personal items on display on loan from the families
of these brave soldiers. The exhibition celebrates the 100th
anniversary of their creation.QH‑7, National Museum, Al.
Marcinkowskiego 9, tel. (+48) 61 856 80 00, Admission
8/12zł, www.mnp.art.pl.

UNTIL 31.08 » PORTRAITS OF ANTS

Kamil Stajniak’s enlarged images of ants from all over the
world are taken using the technique called “focus stacking”
which moves the image each time by a microscopic
fraction to be later joined to create one photograph. A
single image may be composed of hundreds of separate
images. The exhibition is a unique opportunity to see the
ants from up close.QC‑9, Palm House, ul. Matejki 18
(Łazarz), tel. (+48) 61 865 89 07, Admission 7/10zł, www.
palmiarnia.poznan.pl.

UNTIL 31.12 » IN BLACK AND WHITE IN

COLOR
There are fifty old photographs on display taken between
1890 and 1939 originating from various regions of Poland.
They were not reconstructed in any way, so thanks to the
patina of age, they are a true testimony to the past. The
photographs were enlarged and realistically colorised,
but their original wear and tear remained untouched. The
photographs, often of unknown origin, tell stories of past
lives inviting the audience to interpret them and create
their own memories.QJ‑8, Ethnographic Museum, ul.
Mostowa 7, tel. (+48) 61 852 30 06, Admission 5/7zł,
www.mnp.art.pl.

UNTIL 11.08 » DISEASE AS THE SOURCE OF

ART
The temporary exhibition at the National Museum
grew out of the idea that there is a strong connection
between injury and creativity. The exhibited artworks
were created in changed circumstances  exacerbated by
disability. It is not the exhibition about illnesses but rather
its inclusion in art. The artists are Marta Antoniak, Michał
Bałdyga, Zuzanna Bartoszek, Ludomir Benedyktowicz,
Grupa Bergamot, Beata Ewa Białecka, Adam Chmielowski,
Małgorzata Dawidek, Andrzej Dłużniewski, Józef
Gielniak and many others.QH‑7, National Museum, Al.
Marcinkowskiego 9, tel. (+48) 61 856 80 00, Tickets
7/10zł, www.mnp.art.pl.

What’s going on?

/PoznanInYourPocket

15
 Arrival & Transport

Poznań Główny Train Station, AKA the Breadbox

BY TRAIN
MAIN TRAIN STATION
Poznań’s main train station (Dworzec Poznań Główny) is
opposite the Trade Fair Centre and about 10 minutes by
taxi to the main square. The site of a massive 160 million
złoty redevelopment project over the last few years, a new
transportation centre has arisen alongside the old train
station building, creating a strange clash of deep People’s
Republic and shiny 21st  century - the latter packaged in
a breadbox shape, as critics have sneered - with train
platforms scattered confusingly between the two. Allow
extra time to locate your train, and woe to those departing
from the notoriously difficult to find platform 4a - reach it
by following platform 4 (in the old section) to the very end,
away from the trade fair grounds. If you see 4b, you’ve gone
in the wrong direction.
But back to the breadbox: modern and state-of-the-
art, it finally integrates rail, tram, and bus connections in
one squeaky clean transit station. As a result, this is now
the point of entry for most visitors to the city, including
those arriving at the airport and taking the direct bus to
the centre, which drops off here. In this day and age, it’s
practically impossible for any new train station in Poland
to not come prepackaged with a shopping centre, and
that is certainly the case here: welcome to Avenida, a
shopping haven with a food court and  parking for 900
cars, plus additional opportunities for consumerism and
refreshment spilling out into  the train station hall. Other
now-standard amenities include lockers for large luggage
(have some coins handy), currency exchange, and bank
machines. The city of Poznań operates a tourist information
desk, but there’s also the PKP-operated Train Station Office
(open 07:00 - 21:00), which can help you plan your trip, get
tickets, and even get into town.
Normal ticket windows are conveniently open 24hrs, but
using the ticket machines (which have English options) is
just as easy. If you’re running late, note that it is possible
to buy tickets onboard the train from the conductor for a
small surcharge. Check the timetables online at the Polish
railways website - rozklad.pkp.pl - which has good
English functionality; if you want a seat on a particular train,
it is best to book ahead.
Taxis await you immediately outside, and a ride to the
main square costs about 20-30zł. Alternatively, hop on
tram number 5 (to ‘Wrocławska’) or number 8 (to ‘Pl.
Wielkopolski’) from the ‘Most Dworcowy’ stop located on
the bridge, and you will only have a short 6-7 minute walk
to the main square; a 10-minute ticket will suffice. QD‑9,
ul. Dworcowa 2, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign
mobile phones), www.pkp.pl. Open 24hrs. Note that
due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be
made between 24:00-01:00.
© Tomasz Francuzik; courtesy of City of Poznań

16

© Radosław Maciejewski, City of Poznań
BY BUS
MAIN BUS STATION
At the end of 2013, PKS Poznań Bus Station was integrated
into the city’s spiffy new transportation centre below the
Avenida shopping mall - more info on which you can find
under Main Train Station, including what amenities are
available, and how to get into town.QE‑9, ul. Stanisława
Matyi 2, tel. (+48) 703 30 33 30, www.pks.poznan.pl.
Ticket office open 07:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 08:00-19:00. TI
open 09:00-17:00; Sun 10:00-19:00. W
BY PLANE
POZNAŃ ŁAWICA AIRPORT
Poznań Ławica Airport lies a convenient 7km west of
central Poznań.
In the Arrivals terminal you’ll find an exchange bureau
(kantor), cash machine (bankomat), and food vendors, as
well as a tourist info point where you can pick up additional
copies of Poznań’s best guidebook (wink). As with all
sensible airports in this day and age, there is absolutely no
left luggage facility.
Getting to town is a cinch. Car rental is available, and taxis
stand right outside the entrance, though you’ll probably
overpay to take one. Aim to pay around 30-35zł for the taxi
fare to the centre, but keep in mind that it can shoot up to
50zł during the nighttime; as always, agree on a fare with
the driver before committing.
Arrival & Transport
Alternatively, cut costs by catching a bus, which will get
you to the centre in 15-20 minutes. From the stop right
outside the entrance, line 59 heads to ‘Rondo Kaponiera’
and the main train station (Poznań Główny) at least three
times per hour from 05:05 to 24:00. At other times the
airport is connected to the train station by night bus 242,
which runs at 00:30, 01:30, 03:00, 04:00 daily; journey
time 20 mins to ‘Most Teatralny’. Single 40-minute tickets
(4.60zł) can be bought from kiosks, TI or ticket machines;
remember to validate your ticket immediately upon
boarding.Qul. Bukowska 285 (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 849
23 43, www.airport-poznan.com.pl.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Poznań is crisscrossed by over one hundred tram and bus
lines, including night routes, and represents the most
time and cost efficient way to move about town. Due to
frequent track work and route changes, however, your
best bet for figuring out how to use public transport in
Poz is the super-helpful website poznan.jakdojade.pl
(mobile app also available), which can tell you exactly
how to get from point A to Point B in English. Transport
tickets are bought from automated machines found on
most buses and trams, as well as at most transport stops,
and thankfully you can pay by card (no need for coins!).
The galaxy of ticket options are far too complex to review
here; you can take it to heart that you won’t be leaving
‘Zone A’ unless you’re travelling far outside of the city-
centre, as even Lake Malta is within Zone A. Tickets are
timed, and the cheapest option is a not-very-cheap 3zł
for only 10mins - which might only get you 3 or 4 stops.
A 40-min ticket for 4.60zł is the safer bet, but if you plan
on travelling often, you may want to consider a 24hr or
48hr ticket. Note that kids under five and adults over 70
ride for free.
Finally, it is extremely important that you validate your
ticket by punching it in the ‘kasowniks’ found by the
bus/tram exit as soon as you board. Inspectors regularly
travel the lines handing out hefty fines, and they aren’t
sympathetic to tourists; seriously, riding without a ticket
can not only ruin your day, but your entire trip to Poz.
The Royal Imperial Route Tram no17
17
 Arrival & Transport
THE MALUCH
The ‘Maluch’ - iconic communist-era family car, and sadly
unavailable to rent.
Like the Czech Škoda and the East German Trabant,
the Polish Maluch has served several purposes during
its lifetime; a Godsend for families behind the Iron
Curtain, source of amusement for smirking foreigners
and now, as a cult icon for nostalgics. Through the
years Polish exports have won world acclaim, from
expertly cut glass to dangerously delicious vodka, so
this flimsy tin deathtrap on wheels is something of
an unlikely hero of Polish engineering. Manufactured
between 1973 and 2000 in Bielsko-Biała and Tychy,
the car was produced under the Italian Fiat license
with its official title being the ‘Polish Fiat 126p’. Its
diminutive size earned it the moniker of ‘Maluch’
(Little One), a name so widely used that the
manufacturers officially re-christened the brand
in 1997. When first produced in June 1973 it was
priced at 69,000zł (approximately three times the
average annual wage), and became the first popular
family car in Poland, despite being the size of a
small refrigerator. Throughout communist times the
car could only be purchased by joining a lengthy
waiting list, though diligent workers would often be
rewarded with special vouchers allowing them to
jump the queue. Though production came to a halt
in 2000, the surprisingly reliable cars have achieved a
remarkable staying power, and you’ll still find scores
of them coughing smoke as they zip around Polish
cities. Today a used Maluch retails for only about
500zł, so there’s little stopping you from becoming a
proud owner yourself.
A souped-up Polski Fiat
18
BY CAR
Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities,
a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure
of getting behind the wheel here. A lethal combination of
poor road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of
different traffic and, most of all, aggressive driver behaviour
result in the common sight of mangled wrecks around the
country. Exercise caution, keep a safe distance from the
vehicle in front, rub those rosary beads and God speed.
The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities
(60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside
urban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/
hr on motorways. All cars must have their headlights
switched on at all times and carry a red warning triangle,
first aid kit, replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker
and proper registration and insurance documents. Poland
also has strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2‰ is the maximum
blood/alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single
beer. EU citizens may use their home driving licences
as long as they are valid (and you have it on you when
driving), however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify the
Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find
their licences technically invalid (though this has never
been a problem for anyone we know).
Photo by Acubens, CC BY-SA 3.0
Driving to Poznań is fairly easy as it’s on the main E30
highway between Warsaw and Berlin. Once you’ve arrived,
driving around Poznań’s congested one-way streets can be
incredibly trying, however, so we suggest you ditch your
vehicle for public transport at the first opportunity, which
raises the question of where to put it.
Public parking lots are marked on our maps and free parking
is basically non-existent, though some hotels have limited
parking spaces for guests; check when booking your room.
For street parking you’ll easily recognise the universal large
blue ‘P’ sign, but be aware that a blue circle with a red ‘X’
over it means ‘No Parking’ (not sure which universe that
sign is from). Pay via the automated ticket machines on
the sidewalk, but note that they only take coins or special
chip cards from the parking authority office (so forget that
option). Generally having a private car in Poznań is a bad
idea unless you have a safe, inexpensive place to keep it.

CAR RENTAL
All most travellers need to rent a car in PL is 18 years of
age, a credit card (not debit), and a valid foreign driver’s
licence. Be aware, however, that those from countries that
didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention on Road Traffic (United
States, China, Australia...) cannot legally drive on their
home licences; technically an International Driver’s License
is required in those cases. Though some rental companies
(the dodgier ones) will still rent you a car, be aware that
you are assuming full liability for any damages if you get
behind the wheel; you also run the risk of getting a citation
from the police for driving without a valid license. If you’re
looking to leave the country, be aware that you can’t cross
the Polish borders into Ukraine, Belarus or Lithuania in a
rental car.
AVIS
Qul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica Airport), tel. (+48) 22 113
91 64 , www.avis.pl. Open 08:00-24:00; Sat 09:00-22:30;
Sun 10:00-24:00.
DUDA-CARS
Qul. Ptasia 4, tel. (+48) 61 864 44 44. Open 07:00-19:00;
Sat 09:00-16:00; closed Sun.
EUROPCAR
Qul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica Airport), tel. (+48) 665 30
16 31, www.europcar.pl. Open 08:30-23:30; Sat, Sun
09:30-23:30.
TAXIS
Not the dodgy enterprise it once was, most taxis are
reliable and use their metres without any fiddling
around. Calling ahead should get you a better fare, but
if you hail one from the street make sure you choose a
clearly marked cab with a company name and phone
number displayed, as well as a sticker demarcating prices
in the window. Taxis are now legally obliged to give you
a printed receipt at journey’s end further limiting the
likelihood of any funny business. You should expect to
pay 5zł for entering the taxi followed by 2zł per kilometre.
Prices rise on Sundays, holidays, late at night and for
travel outside of the city limits.
EURO TAXI
Qtel. (+48) 61 811 11 11, www.euro-taxi.com.pl.
RADIO LUX TAXI
Qtel. (+48) 61 196 62, www.luxtaxi.com.pl.
TALIXO
Qtel. (+48) 30 346 49 73 60, www.talixo.com/iyp-
poznan.
ZTP POZNAŃ
Qtel. (+48) 61 196 22, www.taxi.com.pl.
Arrival & Transport
USEFUL TRANSPORT APPS
JAKDOJADE
Despite the fact that Poznań’s
tram and bus network is easy
to use, even for foreigners, we’ll
still admit to being a bit put off
from using it at first; that is until
we discovered the veritable
skeleton key to unlocking
public transport: the poznan.
jakdojade.pl website and
the jakdojade app for your
smartphone. The former is a
wonderful free tool for advance planning, but the paid
app is more practical for figuring out how to get from
point A to B once you’re out in town and away from your
computer. Just type in your starting address (the app does
this automatically) and destination, or pin the locations
on a map; select the time you want to depart or arrive,
and Jakdojade magically churns out the best method
for you to get there. Finished at the museum and want
to head back to the hotel? This app will tell you exactly
which bus or tram to get on, lead you to the correct stop,
and even tell you which ticket to buy. It’s brilliant and
absolutely worth the few Euros it costs to download.
E-PODRÓŻNIK
This site can also help you get from point A to point B
within Poznań, but is really invaluable when it comes to
planning the journey to your next destination by bus or
train. Use e-podroznik.pl to easily search bus and train
connections and timetables, compare prices and even
buy tickets in one of seven languages. There’s also a free
mobile app (Android only).
MYTAXI
The world’s first and most popular taxi app is very
much available in PL. MyTaxi allows you to compare
rates, arrival times, car models, and more, sending the
cab of your choice to your location (and allowing you
to track its progress) without you having to talk to any
dispatchers. Download it for free from their website:
mytaxi.com.
UBER
Uber (uber.com) has indeed arrived in Poland,
recently opening their European hub in Kraków.
If you’re already an Uber user, you’ll find that the
alternative taxi service - whose free mobile app offers
cheap one-tap, no cash, no tip rides from local drivers
- has good coverage across Poznań and all of Poland,
however there are some drawbacks. Specifically, Uber
drivers don’t have the same permissions as regular
cabbies and may not be able to take you as close to
your destination, or get you there as directly; such is
the trade-off for slightly cheaper rates.
19
 © OpenStreetMap contributors. Available under the Open Database License.
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Poznań Sightseeing
Crowded with cobbled streets, soaring steeples and
historical monuments, Poznań’s Old Town is a collage of
architectural styles and historical monuments, waiting to
be explored…
24

A city of half a million with a history dating back to the
8th century, considered a likely site of   the baptism of
Polish ruler Mieszko I and thus the birthplace of the
Polish state, Poznań is the capital of the Wielkopolska
region and a popular business and tourism destination.
Its runs as the residence of early Polish kings, a medieval
trade hub, Prussian-occupied Posen, a WWII Festung,
and finally its return to Poland created a city rife with
historical monuments, with much to offer those who enjoy
outstanding architecture and diverse cultural attractions.
While part of the beauty of Poznań lies in aimlessly roaming
the streets and alleys, making chance findings from one
turn to the next, there are a number of must-see sights
whose discovery should not be left to chance.
Your natural start point should be the Old Town, and its
main square, the glorious Stary Rynek; we make touring
both easy with two sections beginning on the next page.
Along the way, make sure not to miss the gem of the Old
Town, the Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus (p.33), which
boasts an interior by a veritable who’s who of Roman
Baroque artists as well as a flamboyant pink facade, and
Poznań’s two castles, the Royal Castle (p.35), once the seat
of the first Polish kings, and the Imperial Castle (p.37),
built as the residence of Prussian ruler Kaiser Wilhelm II in
1910.
Once done with the wonders of the Old Town, make your
way across the river to the most important place of worship
in Poznań, the Poznań Cathedral in Ostrów Tumski
(p.38) with its twin towers and surrounding chapels. This is
the site connected with Mieszko’s baptism, a story which is
now told in all its glory at Porta Posnania (p.38).
Poznań also boasts some glorious parks and green
spaces. Lake Malta (p.44), just east of the centre is one of
the more unique urban leisure areas in the country, and
offers loads of family activities for all seasons, including
skiing, roller-coasters, and the New Zoo. Meanwhile,
just north of the Old Town lies Citadel Park (p.41) with
89 hectares of public greenery stuffed with interesting
monuments, and even two museums focussed on the
city’s military past.
Those with an interest in more recent history will no
doubt also appreciate museums dedicated to Poznań’s
two famous uprisings, the 1918 Wielkopolska Uprising
against Prussians (p.49) and the 1956 Uprising against
communist authorities (p.47), and the Wielkopolska
Martyrs Museum (p.49) housed in a former Gestapo penal
camp.  Qul. Bukowska 285 (Poznań Ławica Airport,
Also keep an eye out on the multitude of cultural events
taking place in and around the city, especially in the
summer - we list the highlights in our events section
starting on p.10. No matter how long your stay, you’ll find
plenty in Poznań to keep your interest. Use our guide to
explore it all and enjoy one of Poland’s most ancient and
exciting cities.
Sightseeing
GUIDED TOURS
If an authoritative print guide and expansive web
portal simply aren’t enough, and you need someone
to literally take you by the hand (hey, we kid), there are
plenty of tour companies to choose from in Poznań and
we list the best of them here.
CITY EVENT POZNAŃ
More from City Guide Poznań - going beyond walking
tours and standard tourist itineraries, City Event Poznań
organises multimedia city games, foodie and feast
tours, costumed performers, and more. Perfect for
groups, school field trips, and team building.Qtel.
(+48) 608 28 42 08, www.cityevent-poznan.pl.
CITY GUIDE POZNAŃ
Excellent local guides offering tours in English,
German, Polish, Italian, Russian, French and Spanish to
attractions throughout Poznań and beyond (the Piast
Route). During Poland’s EU presidency, City Guides was
chosen to show delegates of the European Commission
around the city - solid credentials indeed.Qtel. (+48)
608 28 42 08, www.cityguide-poznan.com.pl.
KULTOUR.PL
City guides offering tours of Poznań and the
surrounding area. Languages spoken include German,
English, Russian, Ukrainian, Spanish, and even Japanese.
Please call in advance to book a tour.Qtel. (+48) 601
87 16 61, www.kultour.pl.
VISITPOZNAŃ
VisitPoznan offers a wide variety of traditional and
alternative-themed walking tours for groups and
individuals during the warm season (roughly May-
October). All tours are by prior arrangement only.
Qtel. (+48) 663 03 62 95, www.visitpoznan.info.
For groups 1-6 people 190zł/2hrs, 250zł/3hrs,
340zł/5hrs; prices negotiable for larger groups.
Get the In Your Pocket
City Essentials App
TOURIST INFORMATION
TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE
Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 849 23 43, www.poznan.
travel.pl. Open 24 hours.
TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE
QD‑9, ul. Dworcowa 2 (Main Train Station), tel. (+48)
61 633 10 16, www.poznan.travel.pl. Open 09:00-
17:00.
25
 Stary Rynek Walking Tour

Photo by Radoslaw Maciejewski

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STARY RYNEK 3
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© OpenStreetMap contributors. Available under the Open Database License.
 Stary Rynek Walking Tour
Packed with monuments, landmarks, museums, and
mementos from the city’s rich history, Poznańs marvellous
Old Town Square warrants more than a passing glance and
smartphone pic. Faithfully reconstructed after the immense
damage of WWII, the Square can easily take a few hours to
properly explore and enjoy.

1 OLD TOWN HALL

First erected in the early 14th century, Poznań’s glorious
Town Hall (Ratusz) really flowered in mid-1500s when
Italian architect Giovanni Quadro of Lugano added the
Renaissance loggia, attic, and classical tower, earning the
structure acclaim as ‘the most beautiful building north of
the Alps.’ Unfortunately a catalogue of historic disasters The Town Hall Goats © Grzegorz Babicz. Courtesy of City of Poznań
- including a 1675 fire, 1725 hurricane and WWII bomb
damage - have resulted in the sad reality that today little 2 PRANGER (PRĘGIERZ)
of the original structure actually remains, though it has Just outside the Town Hall, near its southeast corner,
been faithfully rebuilt to retain its status as the city’s you’ll find the proudly protruding Pranger, a 16th-century
showpiece. punishment device funded by fines placed on servant
women, wet-nurses, and barmaids who dressed up too
Today the Old Town Hall houses the Historical Museum of frilly or wore jewellery deemed inappropriate for their social
Poznań - currently closed for renovations scheduled standing (the outrage!). Topped with a severe statue of a
to run until 2021 -  whose collection encompasses sword-wielding executioner in a Crusader’s outfit, unlucky
exhibits from the 10th century till the present day. The criminals would be chained to this octagonal column and
biggest draw is the Great Entrance Hall with its elaborately whipped, or - if the executioner was feeling fancy or the
decorated vault, supported by two huge pillars. The crime warranted it - have his ears or fingers chopped off.
tableaux are inspired by the bible, astrology and figures Sadly, the contraption no longer elicits deserved fear, as
from mythology. Directly outside the Town Hall is the evidenced by repeated vandalism by drunken students
original whipping post (Pranger), dating from 1535, with and football hooligans - an offence which would surely
a recently repaired figure of Poz’s executioner standing on be more creatively punished in the Pranger’s heyday than
top. in our current times. Luckily, the original isn’t actually in
any danger, as it has long been moved to the Historical
Crowds gather outside the Town Hall each day to witness Museum and replaced with a copy.QI‑7, Stary Rynek.
two mechanical billy goats emerge from a door above
the clock at precisely 12:00 and proceed to butt heads
twelve times. Simultaneously, a trumpeter plays the
town’s traditional bugle call from a balcony. The bugle
call (hejnał) dates back at least to the 15th century, and
the goats have been ramming heads 1551. Replaced
and restored over the years, the present pair have been
bludgeoning each other since 1954. Of course there’s
a half-baked legend to go along with them: When the
clock was completed in 1511, the governor of the Poznań
province was invited for the unveiling. The hapless cook
preparing the celebratory feast burnt the venison, so he
went out and managed to steal a pair of goats to serve
instead. Alas, the goats escaped and traipsed up to the
top of City Hall, where the governor saw them butting
heads and decreed they be added to the clock. The rest,
as they say, is history - much like the cook, who was
likely tied to the whipping post and given a bloody good
thrashing.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 1, tel. (+48) 61 856 81 93,
www.mnp.art.pl.

BOOK A TOUR
Pranger

27
 Stary Rynek Walking Tour
MYTHOLOGICAL FOUNTAINS
Apollo Fountain © teressa, AdobeStock
Guarding the corners of the square are four mythological
fountains depicting Neptune, Mars, Apollo, and -
perhaps in order to combat the under-representation
of the fairer sex - Proserpina. The fountains date
back to at least the 16th century, though the original
adornments were quite different: historical records
show a commision for wooden sculptures of a lion and
a deer. In the 17th century, city authorities decided
to go Roman and splurge on figures of mythological
dieties, also in wood (later they were redone in stone).
Of the four currently standing, only Proserpina is the
original, dating back to 1766; it depicts the goddess
of grain and agriculture being abducted by Pluto. The
other three fountains were revealed between 2002 and
2005 and placed in their correct historical spots.
John of Nepomuk Monument Photo by kwolana, CC BY-SA 3.0
28
3 BUDNICY HOUSES
To the left of the Town Hall is perhaps the most recognisable
Poznań sight: the picture-book-worthy, technicolor row of
townhouses planted right in the middle of the Main Square.
Originally called “herring shops” (budy śledziowe), they were
home to merchants, and their arcades held fish, candle,
torch, and salt stands. They were later renamed to Budnicy
Houses (domki budnicze) in honour of a class of merchants
known as Budnicy, whose headquarters used to operate at
no. 117. Look closely and you’ll see their coat of arms on the
facade: three palm trees and a herring.QI‑7, Stary Rynek.
4 WIELKOPOLSKA MILITARY MUSEUM
Situated inside a brutal communist-era pavilion, the Military
Museum documents the history of the Polish military
from the 11th century onwards. Starting with scythes and
halberds the collection includes the armour of winged
hussars, sabres, muskets and cannons, as well as portraits
of Polish military commanders and famous moments in
their history. The unwieldy musket ‘kolowy’ is a particularly
impressive effort, and surely completely useless in combat.
The 20th century section features grenades, compasses and
medical kits, and the upstairs is devoted to the Wielkopolska
Uprising, with medals, uniforms and postcards from the era.
The collection was decimated during WWII, with the only
surviving item being a fragment of Wojciech Kossak’s 1901
painting, The Battle of the Pyramids.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 9,
tel. (+48) 61 852 67 39, www.mnp.art.pl. Open 11:00-
17:00; Fri 12:00-21:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-18:00; closed Mon.
Admission 7/1-5zł. Sat free. N
5 JOHN OF NEPOMUK MONUMENT
As you stroll Stary Rynek, you’ll see numerous monuments,
including this noteworthy 1724 figure of John of Nepomuk
(Jan Nepomucen), a Bohemian martyr saint who was
tortured and drowned in the Vltava River after refusing to
divulge the secrets of the Queen of Bohemia’s confessional
to her jealous husband Wenceslaus. It was hoped that
the saint would be able to protect the city from repeated,
disastrous floods, but ultimately the 1960’s re-routing of the
Warta River did a far better job of that.QI‑7, Stary Rynek.
6 ARSENAŁ CITY GALLERY
Founded in the late 1940s under the somewhat commie-
sounding name Central Exhibition Bureau, Arsenał is one
of the oldest players on Poznań’s art gallery scene - and
probably the most important, especially given its very
central location. Currently organised by the Poznań City
Council, the institution hosts exhibitions by Polish and
foreign contemporary artists and organises educational
meetings.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 6, tel. (+48) 61 852 95 02,
www.arsenal.art.pl. Open 12:00-19:00; Sun 12:00-16:00;
closed Mon. Admission free.
Get the In Your Pocket
City Essentials App

Arsenał City Gallery
7 OD:ZYSK
The weirdest spot on the Old Market Square, this former
squat is a testament to the city’s large anarchist presence.
The late 19th century building on the square’s corner housed
a succession of fashion stores, before it was abandoned by
its owners sometime in the early 21st century, a signal
for the local anarchists to take over. The move took place
in late 2012, sparking conflict with city authorities; the
squatters used the space to host parties, concerts, and
various anarchist events while simultaneously housing
some fifty people in shabby conditions, which put the Old
Square’s peaceful touristy appeal in some jeopardy. It took
until 2015 for the two sides to come to an agreement: the
anarchists would move out in exchange for 125 thousand zł
(some 35 thousand USD), which would go towards helping
the city’s evictees and debtors. Since then, the graffitied
and postered building has stood empty, though there are
plans to eventually turn it into a posh hotel and restaurant.
This doesn’t mean that the anarchists have left the centre
completely; you’ll still find them running the Zemsta cafe
and bookstore and tagging city walls with leftist messages,
while their headquarters remain at ul. Rozbrat, just off
Pułaskiego.QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 2.
Od:zysk
Stary Rynek Walking Tour
POZNAŃ STREET ART
For a long time, the height of Polish street art amounted
to scrawling less-print-friendly versions of “All Cops
Are Bastards” and “Lech Poznań 4ever” on residential
buildings and/or historical monuments in the dead
of night, while the ‘artist’s’ accomplices kept watch on
the street corner. Older Poles will also remember the
occasional party-sanctioned propaganda murals - not
the best connotation either. It was only around 2009-
2010 that quality outdoor art started rapidly gaining
ground in PL, spawning mural artists and street art
festivals throughout the country.
The local scene took off in 2011 with the first edition
of the Outer Spaces Festival, which saw renowned
muralists from Italy, The Netherlands, Spain, and France
invited to spice up the drab exteriors of five carefully-
chosen buildings. The project was a hit, and two more
editions were organised, adding a pop of optimism to
Wilda and Jeżyce.
2017 mural by Maupal, ul. Nowowiejskiego 17 (G-6).
Not everyone has opted for the legal route, however:
a certain Banksy-esque character operating under the
pseudonym Noriaki is responsible for an infestation
reminiscent of Wrocław’s ‘gnome problem,’ tagging
the city walls with variations of Pan Peryskop (Mr.
Periscope) AKA The Watcher - a loveable maverick
who has integrated himself into the fabric of the
city. Keep an eye out, and you’ll realise this watchful
rascal is ubiquitous, peering from walls, walking his
dog, playing b-ball, and getting passed-out drunk
depending on the circumstances. In the summer you
can even meet him at Perygród (p. 50), a street-art-
themed hangout.
Fancy a walking tour of Poznań’s best street art? We’ve
not only marked street art locations on our maps with
a spray can icon , but we’ve also put it all online
with GPS coordinates at iyp.me/poznanstreetart
so that your smartphone can do the work for you. We
encourage you to do just that, and check out some of
Poz’s alternative artistic visions.
29
 Stary Rynek Walking Tour
The Guardhouse Radomil CC BY-SA 3.0
8 GUARDHOUSE
This 18th-century police guardhouse was originally
haphazardly constructed using wood, and later redone in
classicist style by Jan Chrystian Kamsetzer in 1783-1787. In
the inter-war period, it served as a garrison jailhouse. Like
much of the Old Town, this structure was all but levelled
in the Battle of Poznań in 1945, and the building had to
be reconstructed in later years, serving as the Workers’
Movement Museum during communism. It currently
houses the Wielkopolska Uprising Museum.QH‑7,
Stary Rynek 3.
9 WIELKOPOLSKA UPRISING MUSEUM
Primarily chronicling the 1918-1919 Wielkopolska Uprising
(though the exhibition starts at the time of partition) this
museum occupies a rebuilt structure that once served
as home to the Royal Guard. A /big renovation ended in
December 2017, taking the exhibition from a series of
artefacts to a modern multimedia creation on par with
the Silesian Museum in Katowice or the Warsaw Uprising
Museum in the nation’s capital (though much smaller,
of course). Downstairs is a mish-mash of weapons,
uniforms, reconstructed bunkers and trenches, and vintage
photographs, which look great but fail to convey much
meaningful information; the historical info is all upstairs,
Bamber Monument Photo by SuperGlob, CC BY 3.0
30
Municipal Scales Building Photo by kwolana, CC BY-SA 4.0
where you can also take a picture dressed as a Wielkopolska
soldier.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 3, tel. (+48) 61 853 19 93,
www.wmn.poznan.pl. Open 10:00-17:00; Sun 10:00-
16:00. Admission 10/5zł. Tue free.
10 MUNICIPAL SCALES BUILDING
This cute, freestanding building on the Main Square almost
looks like something out of Hansel and Gretel. Originally
constructed in 1534, it once housed hardware for weighing
merchandise on its way to the market. The little that
remains of the original furnishings is now located in the
Historical Museum, and the building itself is used by the
city’s civil registry to issue marriage certificates.QH/I‑7,
Stary Rynek.
11 BAMBER MONUMENT
This small statue of a traditionally-dressed Bamber peasant
girl carrying jugs used in wine-making stands beside the
historical Municipal Scales building. Created by sculptor
Joseph Wackerle, who would later become Reich Culture
Senator and Hitler’s favourite artist, Bamberka was unveiled
in 1915 and originally stood over a well providing drinking
water for horses. This iconic monument commemorates
the Bambers, poor Catholic farmers from Bavaria (today
south-east Germany), who came to the Poznań area in the
hundreds in the early 18th century at the invitation of the
city authorities to help rebuild villages devastated by war
and plague. Known for the elaborate folk dresses worn by
women, this ethnic group quickly integrated into Polish
society, learning the language, identifying themselves as
Polish and fighting for Polish national causes. An important
contributor to Poznań’s  history and culture, to find out
more about this unique ethnic group, visit the Poznań
Bamber Museum (p.48).QI‑7, Stary Rynek.
TRADITIONAL POLISH CUISINE A.D.1954

WINNER

RATUSZOVA RESTAURANT

WWW.RATUSZOVA.PL | STARY RYNEK 55, POZNAŃ | +48 618 510 513

 Poznań Old Town Tour

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 Poznań Old Town Tour
While Poznań is relatively spread out, the bulk of its tourist
attractions are located within its historical Old Town and
west towards the train tracks, where the Imperial Castle
resides. This is the area covered by this walking tour; for
places of interest further away from the centre, including
Ostrów Tumski and Citadel Park, see relevant sections up
ahead, on pages 38-43. The tour is approximately 2km
long and can take as little as half an hour if you dash
through it, though for the more inquisitive tourist a few
hours seems more likely. Meandering through the Old
Town streets is encouraged, as are breaks for coffee, beer,
or your poison of choice in the city’s many cosy cafes and
beer gardens.

1 LESSER BASILICA OF ST. STANISLAUS

One of Poznań’s most impressive historic monuments, the
Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus, which it became in October
2010, was created as a Jesuit temple in the 17th century.
It boasts an interior by a veritable who’s who of Roman
Baroque artists, with some fine period ornamentation
found in the chapels of the Holy Cross (which features a
16th-century crucifix), and the Virgin Mary (which has a
precious copy of the painting of The Mother of God of
Incessant Help). The Basilica hosts organ concerts played Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus Photo by Zbigniew Ratajczak.
Courtesy of City of Poznań
on an instrument dating from 1876 daily at 12:15.QI‑7, ul.
Gołębia 1, tel. (+48) 61 852 69 50, www.fara.archpoznan. them floating above the marshes, a chapel was erected
pl. Open 06:00-19:30. at the site - later rebuilt as the Corpus Christi Church -
and the perps were harshly punished. This fabulous yarn
2 UL. ŻYDOWSKA was passed down among the city’s Christian populace
Originally called ul. Sukiennicza (Cloth Hall Street), this for centuries, and when a mysterious blood-stained
unassuming lane became the de facto centre of Jewish life table was found hidden in the building at ul. Żydowska
as early as the 13th century, when the first Jewish settlers in 34 in the 17th century, it was immediately deemed to
Poznań were given plots of land here. Eventually renamed be the piece of furniture involved in the infamous act of
Judenstrasse and later ul. Żydowska (both meaning simply sacrilege and carried to the Corpus Christi Church in a
Jewish Street), it retained this character until the tragedy of procession of several thousand. The building itself was
the Holocaust. transformed into the Church of the Most Holy Blood of
While here, keep an eye out for the former Salomon Beniamin Jesus; dare to venture inside and you’ll be greeted with
Latz Home for the Elderly and Infirm (ul. Żydowska an 18th-century fresco portraying the Jewish trio at their
15/18). Established in 1908 after the Latz foundation nefarious task assisted by none other than the devil.
swapped properties with the Jewish Community, the The only good thing we can say here is that an antique
home took the place of three synagogues that used to plaque referring to the profanation of the hosts, which
exist at the address; meanwhile, the foundation’s former used to adorn the church’s facade, was taken down in
hospital at ul. Wroniecka was torn down to make room for 2005 by the archbishop; better late than never.QI‑6/7,
the New Synagogue. If you manage to get in (the building ul. Żydowska.
is currently residential), traces of the in-house synagogue’s
balcony can be seen in the stairwell. Another building of
note is the former Jewish Library at ul. Żydowska 32,
founded in 1904.
Closer to the market square, the unassuming Church
of the Most Holy Blood of Jesus (ul. Żydowska
34) is a testament to the vicious anti-Semitism that
plagued the city for much of its history. As the sordid
story goes, in 1399 several local Jews managed to get
ahold of Christian sacramental bread and desecrated
it by placing it on a table and stabbing it with a knife,
whereupon blood burst from the wafers. Terrified, the
Jews attempted to bury the hosts, only to find that the
stubborn things would magically unbury themselves
and float about in the air. When a young shepherd found ul. Żydowska

33
 Poznań Old Town Tour
New Synagogue Roweromaniak CC BY-SA 2.5
ALPHAS
Widely considered the buildings that ruined ul. Święty
Marcin, the ‘Alphas’ are an architectural nightmare
from the deep People’s Republic, more due to their
current dishevelled state and unfortunate contrast with
neighbouring townhouses than due to the actual design.
These five modernist high-rises connected by a sprawling
two-level gallery with shops and services are actually
very similar to the Hötorget buildings in Stockholm and
high-rises along Prager Straße in Dresden. Born a bit later
than their counterparts in other countries, they were built
between 1965 and 1972, designed by Poznań architect
Jerzy Liśniewicz. To make room for this new ‘cosmopolitan’
complex, 19th century houses had to be torn down, but
the end result fulfilled its goals – it modernized the street
and drew communist-era masses, impoverished and
longing for more consumerist options, to its relatively
well-stocked shop windows. Recently, the stretch of ul.
Św. Marcin along the Alphas underwent a major overhaul,
and is now a more welcoming, pedestrian-oriented area
with outdoor art installations and a modest amount of
greenery, if the visualisations are to be believed. The Alphas
too are set for renovation, though complicating matters is
the fact that each has a different owner. We‘re keeping
our fingers crossed for results, as - for better or worse –
the Alphas remain one of Poznań’s most characteristic
structures.QF/G‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 40-72.
Photo by Radomil, CC BY-SA 3.0
34
3 NEW SYNAGOGUE
Consecrated on September 5, 1907, the New Synagogue
on ul. Wroniecka was once a much more lavish structure.
Designed by Berlin architects Cremer & Wolfenstein at a
cost of one million marks (to put things in perspective,
the cost of the Imperial Castle came to five million), the
synagogue boasted a floor plan based on the Greek cross,
space for 1,200 worshippers (600 men, 600 women), and
originally included a copper-plated dome. Following
the outbreak of WWII the building was commandeered
by the Nazis and redeveloped into a swimming pool
and rehabilitation centre for Wehrmacht soldiers. After
the war the synagogue continued to function as a
municipal pool - leading some to jokingly brand it the
‘swimagogue’ - until the poor state of the building forced
its closure. Returned to the Jewish community in 2002,
a gallery was opened instead, sporadically hosting free
exhibits. Though plans have been raised to adapt it
into a community centre complete with prayer halls,
kosher restaurant, and conference facilities, the small
problem of raising what was once estimated at $50
million USD (the number may be higher now) proved
too large an obstacle. More recently, there has been talk
of converting the building into an upscale hotel with a
small commemorative museum, but it looks like those
plans have been put on hold as well, and the synagogue
currently stands empty, facing an uncertain future.QI‑6,
ul. Wroniecka 11A.
4 CITY FORTIFICATIONS
As a typical central European city, Poznań of course was
once snugly encircled by city walls and a moat, with four
gates guarding the passage into the narrow streets. Along
the walls rose a number of defensive towers named after
the guilds who were normally responsible for manning
them: there was the Wheelwright Tower, Butcher Tower,
and Cloth Tower, to name a few. Originally built sometime
in the 13th century, the fortifications were unfortunately
largely destroyed during the Swedish Deluge in the 17th
century and later invasions of the city, and what was left
was almost completely taken apart by the Prussians in
the 19th and early 20th centuries to make room for new
building projects. One of those was a rather splendid neo-
 Poznań Old Town Tour
Gothic fire station, which -
lovingly refurbished - survives
to this day at ul. Masztalarska
3. Passing through its
courtyard is a stretch of
reconstructed city wall and
two rebuilt towers: Baszta
Strażacka (Firefighter Tower,
not the original name), and
Baszta Katarzynek, once
part of a convent inhabited by
Dominican nuns (then known
as ‘Katarzynki’). Part of a third
The Old Fire Station on ul.
tower, Baszta Armatnia
Masztalarska 3 (H-7). (Artillery Tower) stands on
the Roman Wilhelmi Square.
Completed in 2008, the resurrected city fortifications are
a lovely place for a (short) stroll north of the main square.
QH‑6, Between Skwer Rabbina Akiwy Egera & Skwer
Romana Wilhelmiego. Royal Castle © stavrida | Dollar Photo Club

5 ROYAL CASTLE
Every European city worth its salt has a castle, and Poznań
STARY BROWAR
actually has two. Indeed, the 20th century ‘Zamek’ west of
Housed in an old brewery dating from 1844, the award-
the Old Town is neither Poznań’s oldest, nor most important
winning Stary Browar complex has been dubbed
castle. Wander just one block west of the market square and
an art, leisure, and shopping extravaganza, and its
you’ll find yourself at the foot of Góra Przemysła, crowned
success a sign of Poznań’s economic renaissance. Its
by Poznań’s former Royal Castle.
opening in 2003 also marked a successful move away
Once the pride of Poznań, the original construction was
from out-of-town developments, and a new trend
begun approximately 1249 by Przemysł I - Duke of the Piast
for inner-city regeneration projects. Originally home
dynasty who had chosen Poz as his capital. Work on the
to the Huggerów Brewery, the building produced
royal residence was continued by his son, and by the time
beer until 1980, then mineral water until 1998, when
Kazimierz the Great (a prince at the time) moved in in the
it was bought by the Fortis Group and a $66 million
early 14th century, Poznań’s Royal Castle was the largest
USD investment transformed it into the shopping and
non-ecclesiastical building in Poland. Its fortunes took a
entertainment Mecca it is today. Home to tonnes of
serious turn for the worse in early 18th century when it was
art and outstanding design details, Stary Browar also
sacked several times in quick succession by the Swedes, the
features a 5-Star hotel, dozens of restaurants, cafes, and
Russians, and then disgruntled nobles. Governor General
bars, and over 200 retail spaces, in which you’ll find
Kazimierz Raczyński restored the medieval buildings and
both name brands and popular chain stores.QG‑9,
created a state archive here in 1783 - a function it would
ul. Półwiejska 42, tel. (+48) 601 34 84 83, www.
serve until WWII. During the Siege of 1945, the castle had
starybrowar5050.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Fri 09:00
the misfortune of being in the line of fire with the Nazi
- 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
stronghold on Citadel Hill and that was that.
In 1959 the decision was taken to rebuild Raczyński’s
contribution to the hill, which today houses the Applied
Arts Museum. Until recently, the Castle’s rich historical
value as the seat of early Polish royalty, numerous royal
births, weddings, and treaty signings seems to have been
undervalued, but that’s in the past now. Between 2010
and 2016 the castle underwent a total restoration, and is
now fully open, including the castle tower, observation
decks, and Prince Przemysł I Hall.QH‑7, Góra Przemysła.
Admission 12/8zł. Tue free.

BOOK A TOUR
Photo by Jakub Wittchen

35
 Poznań Old Town Tour
Franciscan Church Photo by Mikołaj Borowicz. Courtesy of City of Poznań
NEON ART
POZNAŃ NIGHTINGALES NEON
This playful neon art, portraying a flock of colourful
nightingales sitting on a five-line music staff and
lighting up in rapid succession, has been installed on
the facade of the Philharmonic to honour its “Poznań
Nightingales” choir. Founded in the early days of WWII
by a nineteen-year-old named Stefan Stuligrosz, the
men’s and boys’ choir initially staged underground
performances in Poznań churches as an act of
resistance against Nazi occupation. After the war they
were taken under the wing of the Philharmonic, with
Stuligrosz acting as the choir’s artistic director as well as
the president of the Poznań Music Academy. The neon
was created in 1974 by Antoni Rzyski and symbolises
Stuligrosz (the yellow nightingale at the bottom of the
staff, whose light doesn’t flicker off ) and his singers.
It’s worth to note that the Poznań Nightingales are of
no relation to the Polish Nightingales, another Poznań
choir which has been implicated in a horrific child
abuse scandal - just in case you were wondering.QF-7,
ul. Św. Marcin 81.
36
6 FRANCISCAN CHURCH
Built in the years 1674-1728, there’s seemingly not much to
this church just off the market square. Hidden behind the
bland exterior, however, is an absolute explosion of Baroque
over-indulgence, with colourful carved wood, stucco, and
paintings by local monk Adam Swach. His brother, Antoni,
designed the high altar and ornamented stalls, which
literally jump out at you in their bright flamboyance. It’s a
spectacle worth seeing, but visitors also flock to this church
to see the Marian shrine, which has housed a famous
picture of the Miracle-Working Virgin Mary, also known as
the Lady of Poznań, for 300 years.QH‑7, ul. Franciszkańska
2, tel. (+48) 61 852 36 37, www.poznan.franciszkanie.pl.
Open 06:30-19:00.
7 PLAC WOLNOŚCI
Though it is difficult to imagine now, Poznań’s large and
typically empty ‘Freedom Square’ was once the heart of the
city - a favourite spot of the upper classes for strolls and
coffee. Originally named Wilhelmsplatz (William’s Square)
in honour of King Frederick William III of Prussia, it was
demarcated by the city’s new Prussian authorities at the
very end of the 18th century, soon after Poland was wiped
off the map by the three partitioning forces of Prussia,
Russia, and Austria-Hungary. The main reason for a square
this large? Big-headed higher-ups needed a representative
space capable of containing an entire infantry regiment
during military parades. In the years leading up to the
Great War the square underwent numerous changes,
as Polish and Prussian institutions vied for space and
influence, encircling the space with buildings designed
according to the latest architectural fashion; those included
St. Adalbert’s Publishing House (now St. Adalbert’s
Bookstore aka Księgarnia Św. Wojciecha, no. 1), the Haase
Department Store (no. 4), the Brandt Department Store
(no. 8), the Raczyński Library (no. 19), the Provincial
Museum in Posen (now a National Museum building, Al.
Marcinkowskiego 9), and Bazar Hotel (Al. Marcinkowskiego
10). A monument to the 1866 Prusso-Austrian Battle
of Nachod popped up, as did a figure of King Wilhelm
III; both were torn down triumphantly when Poznań
returned to Polish hands following WWI, and the square
was given its current name. It wouldn’t last; after a blissful
20 interwar years, during which the square functioned as
the cultural centre of Poznań, the square was dug open
with trenches in preparation for WWII, and soon German
forces once again marched in, renaming the square - you
guessed it - Wilhelmsplatz. After the war (and another
name change), Plac Wolności was rebuilt according to
the concept of Milewski and Skupniewicz, with trees cut
down and a Hygieia statue (which had been placed on
the square in 1908 to commemorate the expansion of the
city waterworks) moved in front of the Raczyński Library.
In 2005 a large underground parking lot was added, and
in 2012 Freedom Square’s most recognizable landmark
was unveiled - the Freedom Fountain (Fontanna Wolności),
a geometric structure with two 10-metre wings (or sails)
made out of glass. Nowadays the square is the go-to for
protests and demonstrations.QG/H‑7, Plac Wolności.

Plac Wolności
8 OKRĄGLAK
Looking for remnants of the People’s Republic? Cast your
camera to the western end of ul. Grudnia (A-2), where the
imposing Okrąglak (Rotunda) presides over a four-point
intersection. This cylindrical marvel is one of Poznań’s
defining icons and has been a listed building since 2003.
Constructed between 1948 and 1954 this beast is a leading
example of Polish modernism, built to a blueprint by Marek
Leykam. Originally slated to be ten storeys, this eight floor
masterpiece once housed Poznań’s top department store,
and it was here that during the lean years of communism
locals would queue to buy ‘luxury’ products unavailable
elsewhere. After years of abject neglect, in 2011-2012 the
Okrąglak was restored and converted into 51,000 square
metres of A-class office space.QF‑7, ul. Mielżyńskiego 14.
Okrąglak Photo by Przemysław Turlej
Poznań Old Town Tour
9 IMPERIAL CASTLE
More a palace than a ‘castle,’ work began on Poznań’s
fearsome ‘Zamek’in 1905 to serve as the provincial residence
of Kaiser Wilhelm II. Designed in the neo-Romanesque style
by Franz Schwechten, the west wing held Wilhelm’s living
quarters, the east wing his immaculate throne room, with
the northern part of the complex consisting of service
rooms and beautiful gardens based on the Alhambra’s
Courtyard of the Lions. The Kaiser got the keys in 1910 but
didn’t stay long before WWI and the following Wielkopolska
Uprising resulted in a Polish Poznań once again. Between
the wars the Zamek became the seat of Poznań University,
before the Third Reich swooped in and Albert Speer, Hitler’s
pet architect, transformed the tower chapel into the
Fuehrer’s office, and the second floor into the residence of
Arthur Greiser (Nazi governor of the district). The castle was
badly damaged during the Soviet liberation and there was
even a post-war campaign to have the structure bulldozed.
In the end the drastic measures stopped with reducing the
principal tower to a third of its original height.
Imperial Castle Photo by Radomil, CC BY-SA 3.0
Used by the University in the two years following the war,
and then as the seat of local government, the Zamek has
operated as a cultural centre since 1962, hosting hundreds
of theatre performances, concerts, film screenings and
other events in its palatial halls each year. The basement
houses the 1956 Uprising Museum, and throughout the
large complex visitors will find several restaurants, cafes
and bars, including the popular Dubliner Irish Pub. Guided
tours of the castle in English are available for 150zł but must
be booked in advance by calling +48 61 646 52 88.QF‑7,
ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 646 52 60, www.
ckzamek.pl. Open 10:00-22:00. Free admission without
tour.
37
 Ostrów Tumski
Photo by Łukasz Gdak
Just north-east of the centre of Poznań sits Ostrów Tumski
(Cathedral Island) - the island where Poznań was founded,
and “where Poland began” in the words of Pope John Paul II.
According to the prolific legend, three Slav brothers known as
Lech, Czech and Rus met on this tiny island after not seeing
each other for many years. To commemorate their reunion the
brothers named the place ‘Poznać,’ after the Polish word for ‘to
meet.’ From there the island thrived, with a castle erected in
the 9th century and Ostrów Tumski becoming a major centre
of the Piast state. More than a millennium ago one of Poland’s
first rulers, Mieszko I, ushered the country into Catholicism
here and soon after the first bishopric was established in 968.
The first iteration of the Cathedral of Poznań was built in the
second half of the 10th century, and in the island’s thousand-
year history it has been home to kings and bishops alike.
Remains of 19th century Prussian fortifications are still visible
on the Cybina riverside, easily viewable from the Jordan
Bridge (I-3). In more recent times the Communists showed
their disdain for the Catholic Church’s heavy presence in
Poznań by building a road across the island that bisected the
Archbishop’s garden (what jerks!).
A trip to Ostrów Tumski not only makes a peaceful respite
from the tackiness and tourist noise of Stary Rynek, but also
serves as an important crash course on early Polish history
and Poznań’s role in the country’s birth as a nation. Taking
that task on as its very mission, in fact, is the new Porta
Posnania Centre, which straddles the river (with its own
bridge) between Ostrów Tumski and Śródka, and should be
considered the mandatory starting point for all visitors before
carrying on to the magnificent Poznań Cathedral itself.
38
1 PORTA POSNANIA INTERACTIVE HERITAGE
CENTRE OF CATHEDRAL ISLAND
Opened in early 2014, this modern culture complex
symbolically connects Poznań’s two oldest districts
- Ostrów Tumski and Śródka - via a covered ‘skywalk’
bridge between the main exhibition building and
the Cathedral Lock - a restored section of the former
Prussian river fortifications. The main building is
actually on the Śródka side of the Cybina River, and
presents the fascinating history of the area from
medieval times to the modern day, with a dollop of
Polish-Catholic propaganda, via a rather gimmicky
combo of  audioguide and interactive multimedia
displays. The touring route concludes by leading
visitors across the ‘skywalk’ straight into Ostrów
Tumski itself, making this the ideal starting point for
exploring the district. Audioguides are available in
English, German, French, Spanish, Czech, Russian, and
Ukrainian, with three specially designed audiotour
routes - one for individuals, one for groups, and one
for families - that make the experience worthwhile
for everyone, especially kids. Topping it off is a
souvenir shop and a lovely rooftop terrace (open
during the warm season only) that offers unique
views of Poznań Cathedral and the surrounding
area.  QL‑6, ul. Gdańska 2, tel. (+48) 61 647 76 34,
www.bramapoznania.pl. Open 09:00-18:00; Sat,
Sun 10:00-19:00; closed Mon. Admission for the
permanent exhibition 18/12zł. Family ticket (up to
5 people) 36zł. Group tickets (from 10 people) 11zł
per person. Audio guide 5/3zł. U
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Peter & Paul Cathedral, more commonly called ‘Poznań Cathedral floor to cover the entrances to tombs, but were

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Cathedral,’ which ‘Cathedral Island’ takes its name from. later mounted on pillars and chapel walls. Stolen during

JAN
Originally erected way, way back in 968, this was the the war, the slabs were returned to Poznań in 1993 and
first cathedral in Poland, and has had a storied history. are back on display.
As it was razed, rebuilt, and remodelled numerous times Visit the vestry to request entry to the crypt, where you’ll
over the centuries, each resulted in the addition of a new see evidence of the pre-Romanesque and Romanesque
architectural style: a 1622 fire led to a Baroque finish, versions of the Cathedral, and a 10th century baptismal
while a 1722 fire ushered in a change to neo-Classicism. font most likely used to baptise the first Polish sovereign
During the 1945 battle to liberate Poznań, 65 percent of and his subjects. Excavations here also unearthed two
the Cathedral again burned down, exposing the building’s tombs, most likely of the first Polish monarchs Mieszko
buried Gothic elements and leading to its restoration in the I and King Bolesław Chrobry. The second crypt houses
style visitors see today. an exhibition of artefacts found during the excavation,
The interior is a trove of sacral and historical treasures, and it also leads to the crypt of the Poznań archbishops.
surrounded by twelve different chapels, including Be aware that while the lights in the crypt work for free
the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament, which has several (no coins!), they are motion-activated, so if you stand
outstanding examples of Renaissance art (the tombstones and look too long, you’ll suddenly end up in the dark.
of the Górka family and Bishop Benedykt Izbieński, to QK‑6, Ostrów Tumski 17, tel. (+48) 61 852 96 42, www.
be specific) and the Baroque altar houses a miraculous katedra.archpoznan.pl. Open 09:00-17:00. Crypt closed
crucifix brought to the Cathedral from the former on Sundays. Admission 4/3zł.
Wrocławska town gate. The Golden Chapel was designed
as the mausoleum of the first Polish monarchs and houses
the sarcophagi of Kings Mieszko I and Bolesław Chrobry;
the two kings are also depicted in a bronze monument
together, above which is a painting by January Suchodolski
showing Mieszko I, the instigator of Catholicism in Poland,
destroying pagan idols. The chapel is indeed thoroughly
golden, but to fully admire the glitz you must drop a coin
into an absurd contraption, whereupon the illumination
will come on.
The eye-catching high altar at the centre of the Cathedral
is a 14th/15th polyptych depicting Our Lady surrounded
by 14 female saints, while the outer wings feature
eight paintings depicting the Passion of the Christ. The
Cathedral’s lavish Baroque pulpit is equally stunning
and dates to 1720. Also worth noting are the Cathedral’s
five Gothic and early Renaissance bronze tomb slabs, Photo by Łukasz Gdak

39
 Ostrów Tumski
ŚRÓDKA
Mural on Rynek Śródecki (L-6)
Once you’ve explored Ostrów Tumski, the next natural
step is to cross the red Jordan Bridge over into the
ancient - and irresistibly cute - Śródka neighbourhood.
Once its own town, Śródka was named in honour of its
weekly Wednesday market (‘Środa’ means ‘Wednesday’
in Polish), and records suggest the small enclave had
urban features and its own autonomous government
as early as the mid-1200s. The presence of Dominican
monks, along with the regular market, gave Śródka
prominence in the area, which unfortunately didn’t
last long; the monks picked up and moved across
the Warta River, and Przemysł II (who subsequently
became King of Poland) turned the city over to the
control of the Bishopric in the 13th century. Suddenly
reduced to the role of supplier to Ostrów Tumski,
Śródka would continue to slide in prominence as the
nearby city of Poznań grew. Śródka had a revitalization
of sorts in the 17th century when orders of Phillippines
and Reformists swept in and established churches and
residences in the city, yet Śródka was nonetheless
absorbed into Poznań in 1800. During Prussian times
the city was part of a fortified zone that didn’t improve
its fate, nor did the regular occurrence of floods and
fires. During World War II much of the city’s centre at
Rynek Śródecki (the location around St. Margaret’s
Church) was destroyed, and the arrival of the
People’s Republic of Poland, which slapped a garish
highway across the Archbishop’s gardens and Ostrów
Tumski, didn’t improve the area either. But much like
Ostrówek, Śródka is slowly experiencing a noticeable
revitalization.
There are also some surprisingly good eats to be found
here - while our all-time favourite quirky eatery Raj
(p.57) has moved out a few months ago, there is still Na
Winklu (p.64), which offers delicious pierogi with some
exciting non-traditional fillings, and Hyćka (p.64),
which serves traditional Wielkopolska home cooking.
40
3 CHURCH OF THE VIRGIN MARY
This small Gothic church was built in 1432-1448 and
is modelled on the West Pomeranian building style,
with a three-nave hall, star vaulting, and polychromatic
decorations. The altar was designed by Wacław
Taranczewski in 1954. The adjoining building with the
crowstep gables is a Late Gothic Psalteria, dating to 1518,
which contained flats for the clergy. Unfortunately the
church is closed for renovation until late 2019, so it is
presently impossible to get inside.QK‑6, ul. Panny Marii,
tel. (+48) 61 852 96 42, www.katedra.archpoznan.pl.
4 ARCHDIOCESE MUSEUM
Adjacent to the Cathedral is the large Lubrański Academy
building, once home to Bishop Jan Lubrański’s institute of
higher learning and today the Museum of the Archdiocese.
The first floor is devoted to temporary exhibits, while the
next two floors are filled with all manner of religious art
and relics, including the Sword of Saint Peter, numerous
statues and paintings of the Madonna, Jesus, and various
saints, plus well-preserved robes and heavily-bejewelled
rings from Poznan’s long line-up of bishops.  QK‑6, ul.
Lubrańskiego 1, tel. (+48) 61 852 61 95, www.muzeum.
poznan.pl. Open 10:00-17:00; Sat 09:00-15:00; closed
Sun, Mon. Admission 10/7zł, family ticket 17zł. N
5 GENIUS LOCI ARCHEOLOGICAL PARK
Genius Loci gives a different view on Poznań’s medieval
genesis by unearthing, reconstructing, and offering insight
into the lives of those early individuals who inhabited
the island one thousand years ago. Explore multimedia
displays and documentary films, and brave the glass
walkways while peering down at the city’s original walls
and embankments. The audioguide (included in the
price) comes in both Polish and English and helps explain
how Poznań took shape centuries ago.QK‑6, ul. Ks. I.
Posadzego 3, tel. (+48) 61 852 21 67, www.rezerwat.
muzarp.poznan.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-
18:00; Sun 10:00-15:00; closed Mon. Admission 6/4zł,
family ticket 10zł. Sun free.
Genius Loci Archeological Park MOs810/pl.wikipedia.org/CC BY-SA 3.0
 Citadel Park

The British Military Cemetery (p.43).

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 Citadel Park
Just north of Poznań’s Old Town sits Winiary Hill and 89
hectares of picture-perfect green space known as Citadel
Park. Much like any coveted location in Poland, this scenic
overlook has a long history that involves multiple name
changes, military battles and even some old-fashioned
mystery. For visitors, the park offers not only beautiful
promenades and leafy city escapes, but also a plethora of
monuments, museums and historical tales.
The hill itself didn’t become notable until Prussia took
over Poland in 1793 and Poznań suddenly found itself in
a strategic location on the Prussian-Russian border, less
than 300km from Berlin. A fort seemed in order, and design
responsibilities were given over to the exasperatingly-
named General Carl Wilhelm Georg von Grolman. Work
began in 1828 after moving two villages - Winiary and
Bonin - to make room, and continued over the next decade.
The result was an impressive polygonal brick fortress with
1.3-1.8 metre-thick walls, observation towers, artillery
decks and even a moat, making it the central element of
the city’s defences.
Despite the efforts that went into the construction, and
seemingly opportune wars with Denmark, Austria and
France, the fort saw little military action, instead serving as
a military prison throughout the 19th century. By the time
WWI arrived, the fort was too outdated for modern warfare
and played no role until it was captured by insurgents
during the Wielkopolska Uprising in 1918, after which it
was home to Polish army units throughout the inter-war
years. When Nazi Germany occupied Poland in 1939 the
fort returned to its role as a POW camp (British, Russian
and Polish soldiers ended up here) until it was thrust into
the history books as the final Nazi stronghold during the
Battle of Poznań in 1945, finally captured by the Soviets on
February 23, 1945.
After the war, the ravaged and obsolete fort was largely
dismantled, contributing its bricks to help rebuild local
housing estates and decimated cities like Warsaw. Yet
plenty of the fort still remains, and those intrepid enough
to wander off the park’s paths will be rewarded with a
close-up look at history (this is where a guide comes in
WWII destruction
42
British Military Cemetery
handy, as ours pointed out locations of strategic Russian
movements, how the fort was breached, and even the
charred bricks where a group of the last German soldiers
evidently met their end). Under communism, the fort and
surrounding area were given a new strategic purpose when
Winiary Hill was turned into the chummy ‘Monument Park
of Polish-Russian Friendship and Brotherhood’ in 1962,
and a Russian cemetery and Red Army memorial soon
found a home here. Re-dubbed ‘Citadel Hall’ in 1992
after the regime finally fell, today visitors will find this
former military stronghold is home to art installations,
monuments, several museums, cemeteries and large
outdoor events. There are few better ways to spend an
afternoon in Poznań than exploring all there is to see and
do in the city’s largest park.
WHAT TO SEE
1 POZNAŃ ARMY MUSEUM
Recently re-opened after a long renovation, the museum
provides visitors with the chance to learn more about
the city’s military history, with a particular focus on
the Second World War and the inter-war period. A
large number of items from these times are on display,
including various newspaper cuttings, weapons, photos
and uniforms. But other eras are covered too, with some
artefacts - such as old bullets and army storage devices
- dating back as far as 1897. Note that the ticket also
includes entrance to the Museum of Armaments, also
located in Citadel Park.QI‑4, Al. Armii Poznań (Po.
Armii Poznań Citadel), tel. (+48) 663 86 64 14, www.
wmn.poznan.pl. Open 10:00-17:00; Sun 10:00-16:00.
Admission 8/5zł, Tue free; ticket also valid for the
nearby Museum of Armaments. U
GETTING THERE
If the weather is nice there’s no reason not to walk to
Citadel Park from the Rynek. The stroll is just under 2km
and should take 25-30 minutes. Those who prefer an
(arguably) quicker route can grab bus number 174, 176,
190, or 603 from ‘Wielka’ to ‘Garbary’.
 Citadel Park
2 THE BELL OF PEACE AND FRIENDSHIP
AMONG NATIONS
Erected in 1986, the ‘Bell of Peace and Friendship Among
Nations’ was installed too late to spare Poznań from a
largely turbulent 20th century, but it plays a role in the
remembering when it’s rung on holidays and anniversaries
such as Liberation Day (February 23rd) when the Germans
capitulated at the fort during World War II. Weighing 850
kg, the dove-embossed bell hangs 10m above the ground
and can allegedly be heard from 10km away.QI‑4, Park
Cytadela.

3 BRITISH MILITARY CEMETERY

Citadel Park hosts several cemeteries, but the one
typically of most interest to tourists is British Military
Cemetery (also known as the Commonwealth Cemetery).
Why? It’s here that you’ll find the graves of several of the
men involved in what is now known as “the Great Escape”
(it wasn’t just a movie, folks!). In addition, the cemetery
houses graves of servicemen from WWI (all of whom died
in various parts of Poland as POWs), and those who died
in bombing operations over what is now the Polish city
of Szczecin.QH‑4, Park Cytadela. Open from dawn till
dusk.
4 MONUMENT TO THE HEROES
OF THE POZNAŃ CITADEL
One of the most noticeable features of Citadel Park is
the Soviet Obelisk located prominently at the top of
the grand staircase as you enter the park from Aleja
Armii Poznań (H-4). The giant Socialist Realism column
is dedicated to the Russian soldiers killed during the
1945 siege of the fort, and it’s most interesting aspect is
perhaps the one you can no longer see: the large red star
affixed to the top which disappeared in the dead of night
after the fall of communism in Poland in 1989. Official
complaints by the Russian Embassy to track down the
star and its thieves were, unsurprisingly, largely ignored
by police, and for years the public was left to speculate
what became of the red emblem (a rumour that the star
was filled with jewels proved to be one popular urban
myth). In recent years, however, a local journalist looking
into the mystery was able to swiftly solve it: local firemen
had removed the star using their rescue ladders. They
fessed up and turned it over without consequence to the
city, which has plans to restore it and eventually put it on
display at the Historical Museum of Poznań.QH‑4, Park
Cytadela.
Museum of Armaments
Cytadela, tel. (+48) 61 820 45 03, www.wmn.poznan.pl.
Open 10:00-17:00; Sun 10:00-16:00. Admission 10/5zł,
Tue free; ticket also valid for the nearby Poznań Army
Museum.
6 HEADLESS FIGURES
Unveiled as part of Poznań’s 750th birthday celebrations
in 2002, this massive troop of towering, headless cast iron
figures marching aimlessly across Citadel Park is officially
titled “Unrecognised” (“Nierozpoznani”). 112 in all, each
measuring 2 metres tall, the odd installation is the work
of local arts grad and international art star Magdalena
Abakanowicz, who is keeping mum on its meaning. Those
with ties to Chicago might recognise a similar installation
in Grant Park, while a few more of Abakanowicz’s headless
fright patrol can be found wandering lost in the courtyard
of the Imperial Castle.QI‑3, Park Cytadela.
7 ROSE GARDEN
Certainly one of the nicest and most popular parts of
Citadel Park, particularly in fine weather, is the ‘rosarium.’
Consisting of six landscaped terraces planted with
different roses, trees, and shrubs descending to a small
lake at its centre, this is perhaps Poz’s most romantic
corner, as evidenced by all the couples getting very cosy
on the numerous benches scattered about. Go for a stroll,
stop to smell the roses, and maybe sneak in a snog on the
side.QH‑2, Park Cytadela.

5 MUSEUM OF ARMAMENTS
The remains of this Prussian fort (which was used as a
war laboratory to produce gunpowder and shells during
World War II) prove to be the perfect location for the
Museum of Armaments, which features displays of various
weaponry and ammunition as well as photos of battles
from Poznań’s history. Most interesting for military buffs
however is the outdoor exhibition laden with a whole
host of war machinery including a T-34 tank, a ‘Katyusha’
rocket launcher, bombers and a MIG-15.QH‑3, Park Archiwum Urzędu Miasta Poznania, photo D. Krakowiak

43
 Lake Malta

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Of Poznań’s many lakes it’s Malta - to the east - that is the
best known, and its surroundings are well worth further
investigation. Formed in 1952 as a result of damming the
Cybina, this 2.2km long lake is the largest man-made lake in
the city, with an average depth of 3.1 metres. Surrounded by
parks and woodland, it is today one of the principal recreation
areas in the region - in both summer and winter - with an ice-
rink, ski slope (the first in former communist Europe), a world-
class regatta course, zoo, water park, and dozens of other
attractions, including several historical sights. Just east of the
centre, but miles from the madness of the market square, if
you’re in town to decompress, head to Malta.
ADRENALINE ALPINE COASTER
A 500 metre long roller coaster filled with twisting loops
(even a 360 degree twist) that hauls screaming visitors
around the track at 40km per hour.Qul. Wiankowa 2,
tel. (+48) 501 35 51 53​, www.maltaski.pl. Open 10:00-
21:00. Opening hours depend on the weather. 1 ride in a
1-person cart 10zł; 3 rides 20zł. 1 ride in a 2-person cart
15zł; 3 rides 30zł.
LAKE MALTA CAROUSEL
This 8-metre-tall, retro-style swing carousel seats 32
dizziness enthusiasts ages 6 and up.Qul. Wiankowa 2, tel.
(+48) 501 35 51 53, www.maltaski.pl. Open 10:00-21:00.
Opening hours depend on the weather. Admission 8zł.
MALTANKA MINI RAILWAY
Pleasing the paying public since 1956, this is one of the
last 600mm narrow gauge railways in PL, faithfully pulled
by ‘Borsuk’ (Badger) - a steam engine with two whistles.
Operating from May to the end of September, it’s a unique
attraction for rail buffs, and also a great way to view Malta.
Better still, this is one of the most practical ways to get to
the ‘New Zoo’ – catch it from the Maltanka stop near Rondo
Śródka (M-6) and ride it to the end, namely the Zwierzyniec
stop at the zoo. Trains run on the hour Mon-Fri and on the half
hour Sat-Sun, with the first ride at 10:00 and the last one at
19:00; tickets 7.50/5zł.QM‑7, tel. (+48) 61 839 66 90, www.
mpk.poznan.pl/turystyka/maltanka. Open 10:00-19:00.
MALTA SKI MINI GOLF
18 hole mini golf course overlooking Lake Malta; hours and
availability weather-dependent.Qul. Wiankowa 2, tel.
(+48) 501 35 51 53​, www.maltaski.pl. Open 10:00-21:00.
Admission 18/15zł.
Lake Malta
GETTING TO LAKE MALTA
Lake Malta is situated just to the east of the city centre,
and Rondo Śródka - at the lake’s northwest corner,
is the best place to access it. Below are the public
transport options from three main points in the centre.
Alternatively, a taxi from the centre to the north shore
will cost about 30-35zł.
From the main train station (D-9): Take tram number
6 from the ‘Poznań Główny’ stop (walk just past the
Avenida shopping centre going east) directly to
‘Baraniaka’. The journey takes about 14 minutes.
From the Old Town Square: Take tram number 3,
16, or 17 from either ‘Pl. Wielkopolski’ (H-6) or ‘Małe
Garbary’ (I-6) to ‘Rondo Śródka’.QM‑6.
MALTA SKI OUTDOOR PLAYGROUND
Wooden playground with slides, mazes, and obstacles.
Opening hours are weather-dependent.Qul. Wiankowa 2,
tel. (+48) 501 35 51 53, www.maltaski.pl. Open 10:00-
21:00. Admission free.
MALTA SKI PONTOON HIRE
Our first thought was boat rental, but nope, that would
be too conventional for Lake Malta. This what happens to
Poz’s 70m artificial ski slope in summer (May to the end of
September to be exact) - people go speeding down it in
plastic inner tubes.Qul. Wiankowa 2, tel. (+48) 501 35 51
53​, www.maltaski.pl. Open 10:00-21:00. Opening hours
depend on the weather. 1 ride 5zł; 3 rides 10zł.
TOBOGGAN RUN PEPSI
Hit speeds of 50km on this summer toboggan run, a
daredevil experience that twists and turns the foolish and
the brave over the course of a 530 metre track. Open in
the warm season, from approximately May depending on
weather.Qul. Wiankowa 2, tel. (+48) 501 35 51 53​, www.
maltaski.pl. Open 10:00-21:00. 8zł for one dash, 15zł for
three. Kids under 8 free.
Adrenaline Alpine Coaster
45
 Lake Malta
LAKE RUSAŁKA
If lakes Malta and Rusałka were siblings (and in a sense
they are), Rusałka would be the athletic and attention-
seeking Malta’s mysteriously beautiful and slightly in-
troverted sister. Indeed, the lake’s very name - derived
from Slavic mythology and denoting a water nymph or
mermaid - belies the area’s natural wonder and allure.
While Lake Malta is favoured by families and sports-
men, the slightly smaller Rusałka (36.7 hectares) has
long been favoured by naturalists and fishermen, hik-
ers, cyclists, and photographers, and is characterised
by 3,300 metres of largely wooded coastline woven
with intimate walking paths, ancient trees (a group of
which near the north shore are a designated natural
monument), misty streams, and several forgotten war
memorials. Like Lake Malta, Rusałka is a man-made
reservoir initiated during WWII, but in contrast to her
younger brother, Rusałka’s shores are almost entirely
devoid of commercial development and provide a
unique opportunity to immerse oneself in a natural
setting without leaving the city centre.
That’s not to say that this old girl doesn’t know how to
have fun, however. In summertime a designated section
of the northern coast becomes Poznań’s most popular
swimming and sun-bathing destination, overseen by
lifeguards and offering water sports equipment rental
and a children’s playground. The beachside Rusałka
restaurant, while quite low-rated (visit at your own risk),
serves as a back-up plan for those who forgot to bring
their own snacks.
If you prefer to wander a bit, nearby points of interest
include Park Sołacki - which leads directly into Lake
Rusałka’s eastern shore - and the Botanical Garden
on the southern shore. For those fascinated by
Poland’s painful past, Rusałka also conceals several
unkempt WWII-era memorials and mausoleums, and
the Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum (p.49) is within
walking distance of the south shore. If your interests
include nature, history, or photography, escape the Old
Town and explore Rusałka’s natural charms and dark
secrets. You’d be wise to pick up a map of the area from
tourist information (p.25), wear comfortable shoes, and
off you go. To get here by public transportation we
recommend using jakdojade.pl to plan your journey.
46
MALTESE BATHS
Located on the north shore of Lake Malta this year-
round facility offers sport pools (one Olympic-
sized and another with a 10-metre diving tower), a
water park (a series of 16 pools including a wave
pool and children’s play pool), and 13 water slides
along with two wild rivers. There is also the World of
Saunas (14 saunas, two of which are outdoors, and a
vapour bath) and, most recently, a full spa complex
(Spa 1306) with underground thermal springs,
offering therapeutic and beauty baths including
Turkish Hammam and Rasul mud bath, massage,
hydromassage, rehabilitation, Pollogen slimming
and rejuvenating treatments, and more from the fully
trained staff.QP‑8, ul. Termalna 1, tel. (+48) 61 222
61 61, www.termymaltanskie.com.pl. Open 06:00-
23:00, Sun 07:00-23:00; SPA open 10:00-21:00, Sat,
Sun 09:00- 21:00. Prices start at 9zł for sports pools
and water spark, 15zł for spa.
THE NEW ZOO
The 116 hectare New Zoo was opened to the public in
1974 after seven years of construction. Housing over
2,000 beasts representing 140 species, it’s comprised of 60
percent pine and mixed forests with a man-made stream
and string of ponds running through the grounds. In this
way many of the creatures live in recreations of their natural
habitats rather than concrete pens. Highlights include the
modern elephant house, and circling the whole shebang
is a seasonal mini-railway, meaning visitors can jump off at
whatever creature cage takes their fancy.
As the zoo is located beyond the far east end of Lake
Malta (not actually on the lake), during the summer you
can get there by taking the Maltanka mini-railway to the
last stop ‘Zwierzyniec’. If coming from the centre of Poz,
take tram 3, 4, 8, or 17 from ‘Plac Wielkopolski’ to ‘Rondo
Śródka’, then change to bus 184, getting off at ‘Nowe
ZOO’. Alternatively, a taxi from the centre costs about 30zł.
Qul. Krańcowa 81 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 877
35 17, www.zoo.poznan.pl. Open 9:00-19:00. March-
October admission Mon-Fri 18/10zł, Sat-Sun 24/12zł;
family ticket (2 adults and 4 kids) 35zł Mon-Fri, 50zł
Sat-Sun. U­Y
www.termymaltanskie.com.pl

Porta Posnania, p.48 | Photo: Łukasz Gdak / CTK TRAKT
1956 UPRISING MUSEUM
The Zamek is an impressive building alright, but pride of
place goes to the 1956 Uprising exhibition, honouring
the first armed resistance the communist regime
faced. Hidden down a side entrance, this basement
masterpiece features stretchers used to carry the
wounded, a tank, a display of arms and rifles, a room of
Socialist propaganda posters, a typical Poznań family’s
flat from the 1950s and a direct copy of a detention cell.
Most poignant of all, though, is the space set aside for 13
year old Roman Strzałkowski, the youngest to die in the
troubles. Exhibits include his harmonica and domino set,
and newspaper clippings showing Strzałkowski picking
up prizes for his piano skills.QF‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82,
tel. (+48) 61 852 94 64, www.wmn.poznan.pl. Open
10:00-17:00; Sun 10:00-16:00. Admission 8/5zł. Tue
free. U
APPLIED ARTS MUSEUM
Housed in the Royal Castle of Poznań, this museum has
recently undergone huge changes which shifted the
focus from medieval craftwork and princely decorations
exclusively to applied arts, rolling out a 2000-piece
exhibition of furniture, fabrics, ceramics, glassware,
weaponry, and clothing from around the world. For
those more interested in the actual history of the
place, we recommend skipping the arts and checking
out the (sparse) ground-floor exhibition dedicated to
the castle and its founder, Duke Przemysł II, as well
as climbing the seasonally-open tower.QH‑7, Góra
Przemysła 1, tel. (+48) 61 852 20 35, www.mnp.art.pl.
Museums
Open 11:00-17:00; Fri 12:00-21:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-
18:00; closed Mon. Admission 12/1-8zł. Tue free. N
ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM
Housed in the beautiful 16th-century Górka Palace,
Poznań’s Archaeology Museum contains a collection
of 42,000 rare and mystifying objects that chart life in
North Africa  and prehistoric Poland. The first part of the
museum takes you through the earliest settlements in
the region, with life-sized figures as well as miniature
dioramas depicting life from the Stone Age to the Iron
Age. The other permanent exhibits include  ‘Death and
Life in Ancient Egypt,’ ‘Archeology of Sudan,’ and ‘Rock Art
of North Africa.’QI‑7, ul. Wodna 27 (Pałac Górków), tel.
(+48) 61 852 82 51, www.muzarp.poznan.pl. 1 Jul - 31
Aug: 10:00-17:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 12:00-16:00;
closed Mon. Admission 8/4zł, family ticket 20zł. Sat free.
Guided tours by prior arrangement 70zł. Free audio
guides avaliable in English. U
ARCHDIOCESE MUSEUM
See Ostrów Tumski, p.40.QK‑6, ul. Lubrańskiego 1,
tel. (+48) 61 852 61 95, www.muzeum.poznan.pl.
Open 10:00-17:00; Sat 09:00-15:00; closed Sun, Mon.
Admission 10/7zł, family ticket 17zł. N
Get the In Your Pocket
City Essentials App
47
 Museums
LITERARY MUSEUM OF HENRYK SIENKIEWICZ
Winner of the 1905 Nobel Prize in Literature, Sienkiewicz is
best known internationally as the author of Quo Vadis, a
birth-of-Christianity epic that has been translated into 50
languages. This museum dedicated to his legacy is located
in a house that once belonged the Italian architect Jean
Baptiste Quadro (that’s his bust you can see outside), and
the collection is the life work of Ignacy Moś, who started
collecting Sienkiewicz memorabilia after helping to free
Sienkiewicz’s only son from the Gestapo. The exhibition
includes the author’s Lennon-style specs, post-mortem
facial and hand casts, correspondences, and a collection of
his novels including an English version of Quo Vadis dating
from 1899.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 84, tel. (+48) 61 852 89 71,
www.bracz.edu.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; Sat 09:00-16:00;
closed Mon, Sun. Admission 4/2zł, Sat free. N
MODELS OF POZNAŃ
A huge model that shows Poznań in its form as presented
in Brau-Hogenburg’s illustration sketched in 1618.
Constructed over a period of six years the model takes
up a space of 50m2 and is built on a scale of 1:150. The
decorative details are impressive, and you can expect lots of
kids as well as anoraked model enthusiasts pulling up the
school seats around it as they wait for the show to begin.
As the lights dim a recorded commentary begins and
visitors are taken through the area-by-area story of Poznań’s
development. Foreigners are given headsets broadcasting
heavily accented commentary in the language of their
choice, though this is at times drowned out by hilarious
background noise that includes medieval soldiers
screaming in agony. The museum’s other models include
Poznań in the 10th century and a touchable model of the
main square aimed at blind visitors.QH‑7, ul. Ludgardy 1,
tel. (+48) 61 855 14 35, www.makieta.poznan.pl. Open
11:00-17:00. Admission 19zł. N
MUSEUM OF ARMAMENTS
See Citadel Park, p.43.QH‑3, Park Cytadela, tel. (+48)
61 820 45 03, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.
pl. Open 10:00-17:00; Sun 10:00-16:00; closed Mon.
Admission 10/5zł. Tue free. Guided English-language
tour 60zł. Tickets bought either here or at the Poznań
Army Museum are valid for both museums.
Models of Poznań
48
Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum Photo by Craig Broadbent
NATIONAL MUSEUM
A large and excellent museum with a rich collection of
modern Polish art (including interesting Impressionist
works) in the new wing, and medieval art, impressive Italian,
Dutch, and Flemish paintings in the connected old building.
The museum also holds the largest collection of Spanish
art (including Zurbaran and Ribera) in Poland and plenty
of Polish art from the 16th century onwards. In addition,
a Monet painting stolen in 2000 was recently recovered
and is back on display. Selected paintings have extensive
English explanations about the artist and topic.QH‑7, Al.
Marcinkowskiego 9, tel. (+48) 61 856 80 00, www.mnp.
art.pl. Open 11:00-17:00; Fri 12:00-21:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-
18:00; closed Mon. Admission 12/1-8zł, Sat free. N
PORTA POSNANIA INTERACTIVE HERITAGE
CENTRE OF CATHEDRAL ISLAND
See Ostrów Tumski, p.38. QL‑6, ul. Gdańska 2, tel. (+48)
61 647 76 34, www.bramapoznania.pl. Open 09:00-
18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-19:00; closed Mon. Admission for
the permanent exhibition 18/12zł. Family ticket (up to
5 people) 36zł. Group tickets (from 10 people) 11zł per
person. Audio guide 5/3zł. U
POZNAŃ BAMBER MUSEUM
Learn about the Bamber people, ethnic Germans from
Bamberg who settled in Poznań in the 18th century, inside a
mildly interesting museum that includes a 19th century timber
house once owned by a wealthy Bamber farmer. Inside displays
include old  bonnets, looms, paintings, clothing, and timber
furniture – everything you’d expect in an ethnographic museum
- but very little written information.QJ‑8, ul. Mostowa 7/9, tel.
(+48) 605 62 16 11, www.bambrzy.poznan.pl. Open Fri, Sat
only 10:00-14:00. Admission free. U
POZNAŃ CROISSANT MUSEUM
Considering how much of a Poznań trademark St. Martin’s
croissants are, it’s surprising that a museum dedicated to
them has only just recently popped up in the city. The
Croissant Museum hosts numerous daily and weekly
shows, one of which is in English and takes place daily
at 13:45; it includes a multimedia presentation, legends,
a tour of the historic museum building, a chance to bake
croissants using traditional tools, and - of course - a tasting.
QI‑7, Stary Rynek 41/2 (entrance from ul. Klasztorna
23), tel. (+48) 690 07 78 00, www.rogalowemuzeum.pl.
Admission 19zł, 17zł/person for families.
 Museums
WIELKOPOLSKA MARTYRS MUSEUM
One of 18 forts built by the Prussians in the 1870s to protect
Poznań’s perimeter, ‘Fort VII’ gained notoriety when it was
used as a Gestapo penal camp between 1939 and 1944.
At least 18,000 Polish prisoners were processed here, of
which 4,500 were murdered, though other estimates
have the death toll as high as 20,000. The windswept
grassy grounds make for a thought-provoking walk,
along which visitors will see the ‘death wall’ - where up
to seven prisoners were executed daily during Nazi rule,
as well as dark underground tunnels used as makeshift
gas chambers. Elsewhere a vaulted brick room holds a
small but haunting display that includes a guillotine, an
execution block, truncheons, whips, and arrest warrants.
The personal effects of prisoners have also been preserved,
including hand-written letters, playing cards, rosaries, and
identity papers. Chillingly graffiti etched into the walls by
prisoners can still be discerned, the writing framed with
red and white ribbons. Reaching Fort VII is not an easy task,
however. It’s found in the western suburbs, so your best bet
is a taxi, with reputable drivers charging around 20-22zł for
the journey.QAl. Polska (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 848 31 38,
www.wmn.poznan.pl. Open 10:00-17:00; Sun 10:00-
16:00; closed Mon. Last entrance 45 minutes before
closing. Admission 6/3zł. Tue free.

WIELKOPOLSKA UPRISING MUSEUM

Primarily chronicling the 1918-1919  Wielkopolska
Uprising (though the exhibition starts at the time of
partition) this museum occupies a rebuilt structure
that once served as home to the Royal Guard. A /
big renovation ended in December 2017, taking the
exhibition from a series of artefacts to a modern
multimedia creation on par with the Silesian Museum in
Katowice or the Warsaw Uprising Museum in the nation’s
capital (though much smaller, of course). Downstairs is a
mish-mash of weapons, uniforms, reconstructed bunkers
and trenches, and vintage photographs, which look
great but fail to convey much meaningful information;
the historical info is all upstairs, where you can also take
a picture dressed as a Wielkopolska soldier.QH‑7, Stary
Rynek 3, tel. (+48) 61 853 19 93, www.wmn.poznan.pl.
Open 10:00-17:00; Sun 10:00-16:00. Admission 10/5zł.
Tue free.
Wielkopolska Uprising Museum
POZNAŃ STADIUM
Originally built in 1980, the city’s stadium was
redeveloped rather than completely reconstructed
when Poznań was chosen to host the EURO2012 football
championship, with the capacity raised from 27,000 to
43,090 - an investment of €160 million. Today the home
of popular local side Lech Poznań, Poznań  Stadium
(formerly INEA Stadium) is one of the top stadiums in
Europe, featuring covered seating throughout, plus all
the service points you would expect at a modern sports
complex, including the rather splendid ‘12 Sports Bar
& Restaurant.’ Host to large-scale events throughout
the year, the stadium has also become a bit of a tourist
attraction with 45min-1hr guided tours available in
Polish and  English, during which you’ll get a chance
to experience the changing rooms that Lech Poznań
call home, the Presidential boxes and skyboxes, the
press room and conference room, the Hall of Fame, a
detention room for misbehaving fans, and, of course,
the pitch itself; check their website for exact tour times
and prices. Getting there is easy - just catch tram no.
13 from ‘Marcinkowskiego’ (H-7), getting off at ‘Stadion
Miejski’.Qul. Bułgarska 17 (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61
886 30 31, www.stadionpoznan.pl. Tours start 10:30,
12:00, 14:00, 16:00, 17:30, 19:00; Sat-Sun 10:30,
12:00, 13:30, 15:00. Admission 19/14zł. Kids under
4 free.

49
 Summer in the City
Want to know what the locals are up to during hot summer months?
Here are our recommendations for stepping off the tourist trail and
making the most of the weather, Poznań style.

SOCIAL NIGHT MARKET

Open till the end of September. This summertime food truck
extravaganza is where all the cool kids go to eat and socialize.
Co-organised by one of our favourite eateries, Falla (p.67), it takes
place Wednesday through Sunday in and around a rusty old
railway depot still filled with abandoned trains. Regular concerts
spice up the evenings, while the food trucks and food shacks dole
out Mexican, Asian, burgers, vegan eats, and more. To get here,
take the tram 7 from ‘Wrocławska’ to ‘Kolejowa’.Qul. Kolejowa 23,
tel. (+48) 511 84 11 55. Open 16:00-05:00; Wed 16:00-01:00;
Sat 12:00-06:00; Sun 12:00-23:30; closed Mon, Tue. B

PERYGRÓD
Open till the end of September. Spend a bit of time wandering
around Poznań, and you will no doubt become familiar with
Pan Peryskop, AKA the Watcher, a loveable one-eyed maverick
created by street artist Noriaki. Perygród is one place where the
little dude can feel fully at home, safe from municipal workers’
paint rollers and power washes - this outdoor bar / party space /
concert venue has been designed around its namesake character,
with the needs of local hipsters and cool hunters firmly in mind.
QI‑6, ul. Szewska 8, tel. (+48) 519 16 14 91. Open 19:00-01:00;
closed Mon, Tue. B­E­6

KONTENERART
Open till the end of September. One of Poznań’s most original
spots, the seasonal KontenerART occupies a stretch of grass near
the Warta River that makes finding it feel like a drink-worthy
achievement. It’s worth the trouble - after all, where else can
you drink in a stack of shipping containers surrounded by an
artificial beach and ‘art’ installations that stretch the definition
of the word? A welcome and unique summer alternative to
pubs and clubs in the Old Town.QK‑8, ul. Ewangelicka (on the
Warta River between Chrobrego and Rocha bridges), www.
kontenerart.pl. Open 12:00-02:00. B­E­6

50
 venture! Poland
y o u r o w n a d In Your Pocket
Choose Shop

iyp.me/polandshop

PRZYSTAŃ NA CHWILĘ NEW

Open till early September. Despite its many kilometres of
Warta riverbanks, Poznań has been slow to embrace the riverside
beach bar trend. Its best attempt yet is the chill, green, and fairly
quiet Przystań Na Chwilę, a grassy al fresco drinking spot just
accross the river from Ostrów Tumski. If you have enough of the
hustle and bustle of KontenerART and Old Town pubs, unwind
here in a deck chair, sipping some good booze with a lovely view.
J‑6, Ewarysta Estkowskiego, tel. (+48) 533 66 55 39, www.
przystannachwile.com. Open 13:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 13:00-24:00;
Sun 12:00-22:00. T­B

CITADEL PARK
Despite a harrowing military past, the 89 hectare Citadel Park
north of the Old Town is one of the most peaceful places to hang
out during the warm season. Wander around the sprawling Rose
Garden, plan a picnic, or seek out the beer garden of Umberto
(p.76), which has been populated with deck chairs for lounging
in the shade. Those who want to be a bit more active can check
out the Poznań Army Museum and the Museum of Armaments,
located in what were once fortifications, or ponder life and
death in the Soviet and British military cemeteries. For more
information, turn to p.41.

LAKE MALTA AND LAKE RUSAŁKA

Poznań boasts not only the Warta River, but also two manmade
lakes, which draw crowds eager to swim, paddle around, and
sunbathe. For relative peace and quiet, choose Rusałka, the more
secluded of the two, which offers a small sandy beach, tree-
lined banks, and a few somber war memorials. If you’d rather go
crazy with activities like wakeboarding, tobogganing, and mini
golf - and don’t mind crowds - it’s off to Lake Malta. Both offer
equipment rental, including paddle boats and kayaks. For more
information, turn to p.44.

51
 Cafés
Breakfast at Petit Paris.
CAFE LA RUINA I RAJ NEW
Now merged with its sister venue Raj (once situated side-
by-side in the Śródka district), La Ruina is much more
bustling, but just as quirky, with a busy interior filled with
travel mementos and art. The main draw for coffee lovers is
strong Vietnamese coffee with condensed milk, but other
offerings include Austrian herbal lemonade Almdudler,
Moroccan mint tea, Brazilian  caipirinhas, and Vietnamese
coconut water.QG‑7/8, ul. Święty Marcin 34, tel. (+48)
666 15 25 55. Open 12:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-22:00.
T­U­6­
INNA PIEKARNIA
The ‘Different Bakery’ indeed isn’t your run-of-the-mill
bread and pączki shop. Though the space certainly could
have been furnished in a more effective way - it reads a
bit sparse and unfinished as is, though the rainforest-theme
back wall is insta-worthy - the buttery croissants, soft-but-
crunchy rolls, and scrumptious desserts are all divine, and
the coffee is great as well. After keeping us waiting for a
while, Inna finally introduced a simple breakfast menu,
which changes every two weeks.QG‑7, ul. Ratajczaka 39,
tel. (+48) 724 01 94 94. Open 08:30-19:00; closed Sun.
T­U­6
KAWIARNIA STRAGAN
Obnoxious in principle, but perfectly warm and inviting in
actuality, Stragan adheres to some stringent self-imposed
rules, including a non-negotiable no-Americano policy
(they also refuse to make scrambled eggs). Instead, they’re
committed to serving top-notch alternatively-brewed
coffee, using all the new-fangled (or just currently trendy)
methods like drip-brewing, aeropress, Chemex, and
52
siphon; boxes of equipment are displayed on the back wall
and available for sale, as are coffee beans. The dedication
shows: their coffee was among the best we’ve tasted, so
give it a go if you’re a caffeine enthusiast. Light breakfast
is served as well.QG‑7, ul. Franciszka Ratajczaka 31, tel.
(+48) 789 23 39 65, www.craftcoffee.pl. Open 08:00-
21:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-20:00. T­U­6
MINISTER CAFE
Ministerstwo Browaru has earned itself quite a reputation
and is the perfect pub to find a healthy mixture of expats,
business types, and tourists enjoying one of the best
selection of beers in Poz. But its sister venue - Minister CAFE
- has also earned a faithful following and it’s easy enough
to see why. The self-professed ‘cafe for those who like
beer’ offers a trendy, laid-back interior (white tiles, wood,
stainless steel), two beer gardens, and a creative menu of
burgers, cake, and beer snacks that will leave you watching
your waistline.QG‑8, ul. Ratajczaka 34 (1st floor), tel.
(+48) 601 53 37 47. Open 14:00-24:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-
24:00. B­6
MÓWISH MASH
Specialty coffee, several varieties of homemade
cheesecake, and (mercifully optional) language lessons
are the order of the day at this cosy and modern Jeżyce
cafe. The attention to detail here is praiseworthy: coffee
comes served with a laminated bit of paper describing the
bean variety, origin, and flavour profile, so some learning
is unavoidable after all. Those keen on improving their
English or Spanish can set up lessons with a private tutor,
which take place in a separate section of the cafe (70zł/h,
with a beverage included in the price). Come in before

14:00 for a selection of tasty breakfast options, including
banana oatmeal, French toast, avo toast, scrambled eggs
with dried tomatoes, and more, with a strong emphasis
on high-quality local ingredients.  QC‑7, Zwierzyniecka
41, tel. (+48) 573 93 89 89, www.mowishmash.pl. Open
08:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; Sun 10:00-18:00; closed
Mon. B­6
PĄCZUŚ I KAWUSIA
Should you wander out to the largely residential Łazarz
district - known for its Palm House, swanky City Park
complex, old-school open air market, and mild state of
disrepair - definitely aim for a pit stop at this charming cafe
just off the district’s main square. Called ‘donut and coffee’,
the selection of treats won’t surprise you, but the quality
will - the delicious pączki (Polish hole-less doughnuts) are
homemade, often warm, and come in a variety of fillings,
and the specialty coffee is brewed using a number of
alternative methods. Recommended.QUl. Rynek Łazarski
8, tel. (+48) 513 41 01 14. Open 10:00-18:00; Sun 12:00-
18:00. T­6
PETIT PARIS BOULANGERIE
A prime location on the ground floor of Poznań’s bustling
Stary Browar shopping complex means that this cafe/
boulangerie is never short of customers looking to
take a break from their latest spending spree. The
interior is smart but informal, and the friendly staff busy
themselves serving up everything from fresh coffees
and teas to crepes, tarts, pastries, and freshly-baked
French bread. For those looking for something a little
more substantial there’s an excellent breakfast selection,
daily soups, and a range of lunches to line your stomach
before sampling one of their wines. Bon appétit!QG‑9,
ul. Półwiejska 32 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 667 15
55, www.petitparis.com.pl. Open 08:00-21:00; Sun
09:00-20:00. U­B
RÓŻOVE
Walking through the door of this establishment is like
stepping into a close friend’s super trendy kitchen, except
the friend is an insane baker with a glass case full of glorious
fresh cakes. Featuring an odd but inviting open layout,
friendly and easygoing staff, and a pink theme that stays
strictly within the limits of good taste at all times, Róźove is
part cafe, part trinket shop, and all cosy hang-out.QI‑7, ul.
Wodna 23, tel. (+48) 725 01 00 77, www.rozove.pl. Open
11:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. U­B­6
TACZAKA 20
A cool upstairs cafe drawing an artsy crowd during daylight
hours when they’re in need of coffee and sandwiches. The
interior features one wall covered in stray pieces of wood
(more intriguing than it sounds, we promise), the menu
is a simple array of salads, cake, and snacks like hummus,
while the true standout is their minimal beer selection,
featuring some local microbrews. A low-key winner.
QG‑8, ul. Taczaka 20, tel. (+48) 799 17 44 14. Open
10:00-18:00. 6
Cafés
BREAKFAST
239
Cosy breakfast spots abound in this city, and 239 is
one of the best - a warm industrial-chic hideaway
sharing space with an architectural design studio and
serving up an array of millet porridge with fruits, club
sandwiches, omelettes, and other seasonally-changing
options. The coffee is splendid and a daily special
lunch is served as well; the one drawback is the walk
needed to get here from the city centre, but use this
as your opportunity to explore Poznań’s lesser-known
Łazarz district. Heartily recommended.QA‑11, ul.
Sczanieckiej 10/2, tel. (+48) 730 50 32 11. Open
09:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-18:00. €.
T­6
BAJGLE KRÓLA JANA
Though now inseverably connected to NYC, the
humble bagel can trace its roots to Central Europe,
with many agreeing it was invented by Cracovian Jews
after 1496 when King Jan Sobieski lifted the decree that
formerly restricted the production of baked goods to
the Kraków Bakers Guild. This bit of culinary history is
celebrated at ‘King Jan’s Bagels’, a cafe and breakfast
spot in the trendy Jeżyce district, cloned from the
original Szczecin location. The menu bursts with a
generous selection of bagel sandwiches with fixings
including mascarpone, sweet potato, prosciutto, and
marinated tofu. Reservations recommended.  QC‑6,
ul. Kraszewskiego 15, tel. (+48) 732 80 64 44, www.
bajglekrolajana.pl. Open 08:30-18:00; Sat 09:00-
20:00; Sun 09:00-18:00. B­6
PETIT PARIS BOULANGERIE
A perfect breakfast option, where the most important
meal of the day is served all day. Choose from French
classics like croque madame, crepes, croissant
sandwiches, tartines and more - all made from
authentic French ingredients, and delicious fresh
bread that is baked on-site.QH‑9, ul. Półwiejska
32 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 667 15 55, www.
petitparis.com.pl. Open 08:00-21:00; Sun 09:00-
20:00. €. U­B
UNO
Absolutely smashing breakfast and specialty coffee
(cold brew, chemex, aeropress, the works) in a typical
‘cool 2010s interior’ of exposed brick, light wood, plants,
and wall art - pleasant. The menu changes regularly,
but expect elevated versions of popular brekkie dishes
like decked-out bagels, shakshouka, porridge, frittata,
French toast, granola, eggs, and more. You can even
grab yourself a bag of coffee beans recommended by
the knowledgeable staff. Recommended.  QC‑6, ul.
Bolesława Prusa 4/2, tel. (+48) 501 03 17 87. Open
08:00-18:00; Sat 09:00-16:00; Sun 10:00-16:00. €. 6
53
 Regional Dishes

St. Martin’s Croissant | Photo courtesy of City of Poznań

Though much of their cuisine is shared with Poland as a ROAST DUCK

whole, Poznań and the wider Wielkopolska region do have
some of the most distinctive dishes in the country. Here’s
a rundown of popular fare that you can get your hands
on even when all the local grannies are busy cooking for
someone else. Do keep in mind that restaurant menus
change, and these dishes might become unavailable
during the shelf life of this guide - luckily most restaurants
post their menus online, so you can quickly double-check
before showing up for dinner.
Whereas in most corners of Poland, until fairly recently,
Peking duck was an eyebrow-raising oddity, and ‘edible’
poultry was limited to chicken and turkey, Wielkopolska
has long liked its kaczka. Traditionally served roasted with
cabbage, apples, and dumplings, duck has recently also
founds its way into pierogi and even burgers.
Where to try it: Ratuszova (p.65), Bazar 1838 (p.64),
Wiejskie Jadło (p.66), Oberża Pod Dzwonkiem (p.65),
Bamberka (p.65), and Hyćka (p.64).

POTATOES WITH GZIK

Nearly ubiquitous as a starter in Poznań’s Polish restaurants,
gzik is made of quark cheese mixed with cream and chives or
radish. Served together with jacket potatoes, this 19th century
peasant dish is known as ‘pyra z gzikiem’ in local parlance.
Where to try it: Wiejskie Jadło (p.66), Oberża Pod
Dzwonkiem (p.65), Bamberka (p.65), and Hyćka (p.64).

54
 Regional Dishes
GREY DUMPLINGS / SZARE KLUCHY be found in bakeries year-round,

Grey - the #1 least appetising colour. Unfortunately, that’s

just the hue raw potatoes turn after you shred them, a
necessary first step in the making of these popular but
uninspired dumplings. After shredding, the potatoes are
mixed with egg and flour and cooked to lumpy perfection.
Traditionally accompanied by sauerkraut, szare kluchy
aren’t exactly a fashionable dish anymore, though we’d love
to see a more glammed-up version one day.
Where to try them: Wiejskie Jadło (p.66), Bamberka (p.65),
and Hyćka (p.64)
ST. MARTIN’S GOOSE
Another St. Martin’s Day delicacy is roast goose, a nod
towards a legend detailing how St. Martin was hiding
in a flock of geese in an attempt to avoid becoming a
bishop (the geese gave him away by honking loudly).
Unlike croissants, St. Martin’s goose really does make an
appearance only around St. Martin’s day; there’s even an
official ‘Goose for St. Martin’s Day’ food festival, now in its
eleventh year.
Where to try it: sadly, out of luck until November.

HYĆKA
A local rendition of elderflower cordial, and not a
popular drink elsewhere in Poland. The recipe is simple:
elderflower, sugar and water, resulting in a sweet, vitamin-
rich concoction.
Where to try it: where else - Hyćka (p.64).
CZERNINA
A bit grisly, this mixture of clear broth and duck’s blood
with a handful of noodles is commonly said to taste better
than it looks, though you be the judge - we’re keeping
mum. Perfect for Halloween and beyond.
Where to try it: Bamberka (p.65) and Hyćka (p.64).

ST. MARTIN’S CROISSANTS

St. Martin’s Day (November 11th) has been a Poznań
obsession ever since a church named after the saint was
erected in the 13th century. The celebrations call for a very
specific treat, and that’s rogale świętomarcińskie (St.
Martin’s croissants) Filled with a poppy seed and almond
paste and topped with a healthy pile of sugary glaze, these
croissant-like pastries apparently date back to the 19th
century. If you believe local legend, their inventor was
baker Józef Melzer, who prayed to St.Martin for pastry ideas
to honour the saint’s holiday, and was inspired when seeing
a horse slip a shoe in the St. Martin’s Day parade.
Where to try them: while November is the high season for
these treats, their immense popularity means that they can
55
 Restaurants
Muga (p.61)
Poznań might have a reputation as an international
centre of commerce, but its restaurant scene has only
recently started taking off, with a scattering of world-class
restaurants and an increasing number of good ethnic
options. While In Your Pocket once listed every venue
in the city, the explosion of the market and its sheer
redundancy now makes that pursuit impossible. Our print
guide carries a wide selection of what we feel are Poznań’s
most noteworthy restaurants, however there are many
more listed on our website (poznan.inyourpocket.com)
where we encourage you to leave your own reviews of the
places you’ve visited.
All our reviews are updated regularly, completely subjective
and unsolicited. The figures we quote in brackets represent
the cheapest and costliest main courses on the menu. The
opening hours are verified as we send this guide off to the
printer, but keep in mind that they’re subject to change.
Where the venue is not on our map we have included the
district where it is located in brackets. Below is a selection
of recommendations depending on what you may be
looking for.
SPLURGE
Any ‘best of’ list in Poznań is invariably going to see a
slew of nominations for Blow Up Hall 5050 (p.59),
where you’ll find very modern versions of Polish cooking
in an impossibly cutting edge neo-industrial setting. For
upmarket close to the market square try Ratuszova (p.65),
and for something out of the centre head to the daringly
modern SPOT. (p.61).
56
COUPLES
Restauracja MUGA (p.61), and its attached Casa De
Vinos wine bar (p.76), is the perfect place to impress
your date, while Figaro (p.62) is so over-the-top you half
expect to be served by Cupid himself. For something
completely different, think of all the naughty things
you can do under the table in the pitch black of Dark
Restaurant (p.56).
POLISH
By popular vote, the market square’s Ratuszova (p.65)
is the best Polish food you’ll find in Poznań, and served
in one of the most elegant interiors you’ve ever eaten
in. In contrast, Oberża Pod Dzwonkiem (p.65) and
Wiejskie Jadło (p.66) do traditional interpretations
of Polish food in rustic environs, Hyćka (p.64) has
the widest selection of regional Wielkopolska cuisine,
and the pierogi spot Na Winklu (p.64) prefers a more
contemporary twist.
QUICK EATS
For a speedy but tasty meal that will leave you with more
time for sightseeing, try the falafel bowls at Falla (p.67),
ramen at Ramen-Ya (p.63), or pho at PHOBAR (p.58).
SPECIAL DIET
Our Vegetarian listings are on p.67, but you’ll also find
tasty vegan and gluten-free dishes in Projekt Kuchnia
(p.60) and SPOT. (p.61). If it’s Polish food you’re after,
Oberża Pod Dzwonkiem (p.65) will adapt any of their
dishes exactly to your dietary needs and desires.
 Restaurants
SYMBOL & PRICE KEY
6 Animal friendly C‑1 Map Coordinate
T Child-friendly N Credit cards not accepted

E Live music U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside Seating X Smoking room available

€ most mains under 25zł

€€ most mains 25-45zł
€€€ most mains 45-75zł
€€€€ most mains 75-115zł
€€€€€ most mains over 115zł

AMERICAN
INDIAN STEAK
Poland does still like its Native American cliches, and if you
look past the name and harmless sprinkling of tribal and
‘wild wild West’ exotica (which admittedly is incorporated
tastefully into the elegant, red-brick interior), you will
discover an upscale steak house serving a wide assortment
of cuts including tournedo, T-bone, fiorentina, ribeye, top
sirloin, and even the elusive 1.2kg tomahawk steak, widely
considered the best of the bunch. Pair the perfectly-grilled
meat with regional sides like potatoes with gzik, goat The best traditional
cheese, oyster mushrooms, or meadow lettuces (all from Polish cuisine
locally-sourced ingredients), or opt for one of Indian’s
Wielkopolska-centric options like venison or roast duck in the centre
with cabbage and dumplings.QA‑9/10, ul. Ułańska 1, tel.
(+48) 61 221 78 07, www.indiansteak.pl. Open 12:00-
of Poznań.
23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. €€€€. B

SOMEPLACE ELSE Join us for daily specials

Some baulk at the prices, but there’s no escaping that (28 PLN for two dishes),
Someplace Else is the full monty – here’s a place that
gets both food and drink completely right, with a largely lunch or dinner.
American menu of burgers, steaks, and Tex Mex; sometimes
that’s just what you need. The diner design is straight out
of road-trip USA, and a great spot for ties-off, after-office
chow, and beers. With 9 TVs, this is also one of your best
See you in Papavero!
bets for catching that match - be it European or American.
QD‑7, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznan Hotel), tel.
(+48) 61 655 20 00, www.poznan.someplace-else.pl.
PAPAVERO
Open 18:00-24:00; closed Sun. €€€. T­U­B­ RESTAURANT
ASIAN ul. 3 Maja 46, Poznań
CAFE LA RUINA I RAJ NEW phone: 61 853 24 82
Completely unique and infused with the owners’ love for Monday - Saturday
travel, food, and coffee, Cafe La Ruina i Raj moved from
their previous (and rather iconic) location in the tiny Śródka 12:00 - 22:00
district to a more mainstream locale on ul. Św. Marcin. With Sunday 12:00 - 21:00
more space comes even more outlandish decor, including
airport-style departure displays mounted near the ceiling,
which display the menu, a potentially seizure-inducing
57
 Restaurants
PASSION FOR FOOD
Wodna 3/4, 61-781 Poznań
Phone +48 61 852 49 95
www.lavenda-cafelunch.pl
DARK RESTAURANT
“Adventurous” isn’t a word we often like to pair with
the word “dining” (after all, that’s how folks on reality
TV end up eating spiders), but this place proves to be
the exception. As its name implies, Dark Restaurant
is devoted to having diners eat their dinner in inky
blackness. We’re not talking mood lighting, either; the
cavernous room is so dark that the waiters actually wear
night vision goggles. The idea behind Dark Restaurant
is that by impairing your sense of sight, you enhance
your other senses, which makes for a more exciting
dining experience. It’s also a great excuse to eat with
your hands, because utensils are completely useless
without the benefit of eyesight. Each of the menu
themes - bizarre food, mood food, and a more standard
option - comes with a variety of courses, and you aren’t
told what you’re digging into until the meal is over. All
these factors add up to a messy and intriguing meal
that will have you guessing with every bite. Sure, some
of the foods are obvious, but basil ice cream? Oranges
with sea salt? Your tongue will undoubtedly be
tantalized. Fortunately, your meal ends with a chance
to talk with your waiter and the head chef, who delight
in making you guess what you ate.QI‑7, ul. Garbary
48, tel. (+48) 61 852 20 57, www.darkrestaurant.pl.
Open 16:00-21:30; closed Sun. €€€€€. 6
58
disco bathroom, and a horror vacui jumble of flags, signs,
maps, artwork, and various bits and bobs from the owners’
many travels. Unfortunately, the quality of the food seems
to have slipped a bit during the move - the pad thai, which
has long been the star of the menu, lacked much of the
complexity we remembered from Śródka. Here’s hoping
that the fare can soon return to its former glory, as there’s
much more to sample: Thai khao pad, Vietnamese pho bo
and bahn mi, Genovese testaroli with pesto (‘the great-
grandfather of pasta’), Peruvian lomo saltado in burger
form, Hong Kong style chow mein, Alaskan hotcakes, and
more.QG‑7/8, ul. Święty Marcin 34, tel. (+48) 666 15 25
55. Open 12:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-22:00. €€. T­U­6
PHOBAR
More like Berlin in Poznań rather than Hanoi in Poznań, and
the local cool kids aren’t complaining. Big bowls of beautiful
pho bo and a vegan alternative are served amid loud dubstep
to hip youth seated at communal tables; the exposed-brick
interior and party garlands complete the stylish atmosphere.
The broth might not be the most flavourful, but a splash of
sriracha and fish sauce from strategically placed bottles resolve
the issue to an extent. Those pining for other Vietnamese
specialties can enjoy nem ran (spring rolls), splendid coffee
with condensed milk, and something called the Vietnamese
burger.QB‑6, ul. Wawrzyniaka 19, tel. (+48) 501 97 39 74.
Open 12:00-20:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-22:00. €€. B­6
INDIAN
HATTI
Our hopes were not high for this establishment - good
Indian is still fairly difficult to come by in Poland - but we
were pleasantly surprised as the appetiser papadums with
a selection of chutneys came out of the kitchen, followed
by some very decent tikka masalas and mango lassis.
From the ornate and slightly musty decor to the extensive
selection of dishes, this is a familiar, Westernised version of
the subcontinental eating experience such as you’ll find in
the UK or US, and we goras are happy. Looking forward
to coming back whenever the pakora cravings kick back
in.QI‑7, ul. Woźna 13, tel. (+48) 732 71 00 00, www.hatti.
pl. Open 13:00-22:00. €€. U­B­6
INTERNATIONAL
BIERHALLE
This familiar tourist-friendly franchise lives up to its name,
bringing its Oktoberfest atmosphere to Poznań’s Posnania
Shopping Centre. At Bierhalle they brew their own, offering
5 different ales most commonly ordered by the litre, but
you can also go gorilla with a 5l barrel. The beer-friendly
franchise menu consists of German bratwurst, ribs, pork
knuckle, and other meaty feasts with fries, the busty servers
in faux-folk costumes look like they’ve just finished milking
the cows, and TVs stream sports to complete the lads
magnet appeal.QM‑10, ul. Pleszewska 1 (Posnania), tel.
(+48) 508 80 07 55, www.bierhalle.pl. Open 10:00-23:00;
Fri, Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€. T­B­6
 Restaurants
BLOW UP HALL 5050
Blow Up 5050 is a combination of gastronomy and art
that will blow your socks off. The name is a combination
of the 1966 Antonioni thriller combined with the owner’s
philosophy of making all her enterprises 50% art and 50%
business. Complementing the award winning hotel and
bar is the restaurant, where prices are at the very top end
of the Poznań market, as is the quality. The seasonal cuisine
- crafted by Top Chef Poland winner Tomasz Purol - is
superb, and the surroundings will leave you feeling you’ve
become part of a living art exhibition, making it a truly
unique experience in Poland, and perhaps even Europe.
QG‑9, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel. (+48) 61 657 99 90, www.
blowuphall5050.com. Open 17:00-23:00; closed Sun.
€€€€. T­U

BROVARIA
Go formal and pick the right-hand room for a smoothly
subdued dining area or else do as the rank-and-file and
head either to the brewing hall out back, the bar to the
side, or the al fresco terrace. Brovaria has something
for everyone, from half a roast duck to a  French veggie
tart, with the premium price reserved for the grilled beef
sirloin. Or consider tucking into the beer feast – essentially
a huge platter piled inches high with a mix of seafood and
meat. Not for nothing has Brovaria been crowned king of
the expatriate scene.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 73-74 (Brovaria
Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 858 68 68, www.brovaria.pl. Open
12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€€. T­B

CONCORDIA TASTE
A long-standing editorial favourite, thanks to their
willingness to buck trends and try something different.
The design is what you would call post-industrial (the live
cooking station is a huge plus) and the clientele sharp-
dressed and out to impress. The food comes beautifully
presented by efficient staff and the seasonal menu features
some truly mouth-watering options, which in the past
have included the likes of Atlantic cod with mango, grilled
bok choy, and jasmine rice; beef cheeks with potatoes
and grape jello; and beef tartare with mustard, marinated
chives, shimeji mushrooms, and confit egg yolk.QD‑7,
ul. Zwierzyniecka 3, tel. (+48) 609 00 29 64, www.
concordiataste.pl. Open 08:30-22:00; Sat 09:00-22:00;
Sun 09:00-18:00. €€€. T­U­B

DOMU KITCHEN & FRIENDS

Put on an apron and dig into a stack of BBQ ribs with
your bare hands at this laid-back Polish-American-Italian
establishment, then wash it down with their home-made
apple alc. Those less willing to get their hands dirty can
choose from pasta, pizza, burgers, fish&chips, and more. As
a nice touch, recommended wine pairings are listed next to
many of the entrees and appetisers. On Friday and Saturday
DOMU is a common ‘before party’ venue, so expect loud
music after 22:00 as revellers line their stomachs for a long
night of boozing.QH‑8, ul. Wrocławska 18, tel. (+48) 61
424 10 42. Open 13:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 13:00-01:00; Sun
12:00-22:00. €€. T­B­6
59
 Restaurants
TRADITIONAL
POLISH CUISINE
A.D.1954
RATUSZOVA RESTAURANT
STARY RYNEK 55, POZNAŃ
+48 618 510 513
TIPPING TRIBULATIONS
Polish tipping etiquette can be a bit confusing for
foreigners. While in other civilized countries it’s normal
to say ‘thanks’ when a waiter collects the money,
you’ll be horrified to learn that in Poland uttering the
word ‘dziękuje,’ or even ‘thank you’ in English, is an
indication that you won’t be wanting any change back.
This cultural slip-up can get very embarrassing and
expensive as the waiter/waitress then typically does
their best to play the fool and make you feel ashamed
for asking for your money back, or conveniently
disappears having pocketed all of your change. Be
careful only to say ‘thank you’ if you are happy for
the waitstaff to keep all the change. Otherwise we
advise you to only use the word ‘proszę’ (please) when
handing back the bill and the payment.
Despite the fact that most waitstaff in PL are only paid
in pennies and leftovers, it is not customary to tip more
than 10% of the meal’s total (though being a foreigner
may make the staff expectant of a bit more generosity).
As such, we encourage you to reward good service
when you feel it’s deserved. Finally, it is virtually
unheard of to leave the tip on your card, because
waitstaff are then forced to pay tax on the gratuity; you
won’t get the chance. Therefore it’s essential to have
some change or small bills handy in order to leave your
server a tip. If you don’t have any, ask for change.
60
FERMENTUJEMY NEW
Pickling seems to be the new hipster thing after indoor
plants and knitting, and this small locale near the train
station has dedicated itself fully to the new trend. Jars
of delicous-looking fruits and veggies line the walls,
and the menu offers exclusively dishes with fermented
components,  from kimchi to fermeted beet marinade
to preserved lemon. For the full experience, try their
fermented veggie appetizer plate and the fermented beet
+ pear smoothie.QD‑7, ul. Bukowska 15/1, tel. (+48)
577 83 09 16, www.fermentujemy.business.site. Open
12:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-18:00; closed Tue. €€. 6
LAVENDA GASTRO & CAFE
There are a slew of cosy little cafes dotted around the back
streets of Stary Rynek, and competition is indeed tough;
Lavenda slots right in there with the very best of them,
though. A relaxed atmosphere and a great array of hot
drinks, wines, and light food make this the perfect place
to share a lunchtime coffee or to meet for an intimate
first date. Breakfast is served daily between 08:00 and
13:00, while lunchtime goes from 12:30 until 16:00.QI‑7,
ul. Wodna 3/4, tel. (+48) 61 852 49 95, www.lavenda-
cafelunch.pl. Open 08:00-22:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00-
23:00. €€. T­B­6
PAPAVERO
It’s all very Day of the Triffids in Papavero, a lovely little
spot that could easily be mistaken for an overgrown
garden. Peer beyond the leaves and the cherubs and one
finds a fine restaurant, with an enticing menu of hand-
made pastas, fish, and meat dishes (including venison)
that does just enough to distract diners from engaging in
daring flower theft. Try the roe-deer knuckle ravioli with
mushroom sauce or the grilled wild boar chop with roasted
potatoes, smoked cottage cheese, vegetables, rutabaga,
and Worcestershire sauce.QG‑7, ul. 3 Maja 46, tel. (+48)
61 853 24 82, www.papavero-poznan.pl. Open 12:00-
22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€. 6
PROJEKT KUCHNIA
Poznań’s culinary scene has come on leaps and bounds
over the last couple of years and nowhere is it more
evident than here. Located in the heart of the city’s
bustling Stary Browar shopping centre, Projekt Kuchnia
provides a sleek, sexy environment in which to enjoy
some of the finest food around town. Oh, and did we
mention that much of it is organic, vegan, vegetarian,
gluten-free, or dairy-free? Though the menu doesn’t
discriminate against carnivores by any stretch, those on
a special diet will find their Shangri-La here, and their
foodie friends will be glad they tagged along. The top
quality extends from the breakfast menu to the wine
list, and if you’re browsing around the Old Brewery, you
can stop your search for the best place to eat - this is
it.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping
Mall), tel. (+48) 606 99 29 99, www.projektkuchnia.pl.
Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. On shopping-ban
Sundays 10:00-18:00. €€. T­U­B
 Restaurants
RESTAURACJA MUGA
Located right next door to Casa de Vinos wine bar (just
step through the glass door), MUGA has managed to
serve up a perfect mixture of fine European food, great
service, and excellent wine. The seasonal menu rivals
anything else we’ve sampled and the bright, well-lit
interior makes for a warm and inviting stay. A perfect
spot for courting couples, business deals, and those
looking to impress; first-daters should head to the far
corner where intimacy is almost encouraged.QH‑8,
ul. Krysiewicza 5, tel. (+48) 61 855 10 35, www.
restauracjamuga.pl. Open 17:00-22:00; Sat 13:00-
22:00; closed Sun. €€€.

SPOT.
Fashion, design, and cuisine collide at SPOT, a unique
shopping complex set inside the beautifully restored late
19th-century Wilda power station, which is surrounded by
a lovely green park. Home to several shops and services,
it all serves as mere garnish for the excellent restaurant,
which should be your main motivation for visiting. Sporting
a smart post-industrial swagger with monochrome colours,
exposed bricks, and retro kitsch decor, the atmosphere is
inspired, and the menu offers sophisticated European
cuisine accented by Asian flavours, including vegetarian
and gluten-free dishes. With craft beer, a large selection of
wines, and their own sommelier, this is Poznań at its cutting
edge best.Qul. Dolna Wilda 87, tel. (+48) 61 835 88 40,
www.spot.poznan.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri 12:00-
23:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-19:00; closed Mon.
€€€. T­U­B­6

STEAK & GRILL RESTAURANT

This spacious  Steak & Grill Restaurant specialises in wet-
and dry-aged beef steaks cooked in a wood-fired oven;
the cuts include rib-eye, top sirloin, tenderloin, and the
massive tomahawk (750 grams of meat!). Other offerings
include BBQ ribs, burgers, spaghetti carbonara, dumplings
with pulled pork, saffron risotto, Poznań duck, and
more. Good for business dinners and special occasions.
QC‑12, ul. Kolejowa 29, tel. (+48) 61 664 66 02, www.
hotelmoderno.pl. Open 12:30-24:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 12:30-
23:00. €€€. T­U

THE TIME
Located in Poznań’s posh Młyńska 12 business centre,
the result of the refurbishment of a fin de siècle building
designed by architect Oskar Hoffman, The Time meets
the standards of its high-profile guests. Perfect for
impressing both business partners and dates, they
serve a menu of sophisticated dishes like duck pierogi
with foie gras and beet puree or quail with figs and
vegetables. Over 150 various bottled of wine can be Poznań, ul. Kolejowa 29
fetched from the cellar by the waiter, and live piano
music adds to the ritzy experience on Saturdays from Tel. 61 664 66 02
19:00 until 22:00.QG‑6, ul. Młyńska 12, tel. (+48) 61
627 03 07, www.mlynska12.pl/restauracja-the-time. www.hotelmoderno.pl
Open 16:00-22:00; Fri 16:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00;
Sun 13:00-20:00. €€€€. T­U­E­6­
61
 Restaurants
WERANDA LUNCH & WINE
Weranda is a restaurant worthy of its setting at the
confluence of the old and new portions of the vast Stary
Browar shopping centre, with an open two-story skylit
space (what the hell are those colourful things hanging
from the ceiling?) that is breathtaking even in a building
that’s known for its architecture. If upscale mall dining exists
then Weranda has perfected it, with a daily lunch menu
(29zł from 12:00 till the food runs out) that can include
anything from pasta to grilled meat to whatever strikes the
chef’s fancy. All of it can be paired with wine, easily making
shopping an afterthought. On non-shopping-ban Sundays
(currently the last Sunday of each month) the restaurant is
open 10:00-20:00.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar),
tel. (+48) 61 859 69 69, www.werandafamily.com. Open
09:00-22:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-18:00.
€€€. T­B­

ITALIAN
FIGARO
Romantic repasts and serious business dinners take place
amongst these starched tablecloths and vases of flowers.
RistoRante FigaRo Prices are steep, but well within the spending power of
ul. ogrodowa 17, 61-821 Poznań most Western visitors. Diners can choose from a large list
tel. +48 61 856 01 89 of pastas, beef tenderloin, veal, and an expansive wine
www.restauracjafigaro.eu list. What Figaro is famous for though is its fresh fish and
figaro@restauracjafigaro.eu seafood, which is said to be among the best in the city.
Those wanting to really push the boat out may wish to take
advantage of the restaurant’s VIP room, which can be hired
out for those extra special occasions. The kitchen closes at
22:00 Mon-Sat, so don’t leave your culinary feast till the last
ul. Wojskowa 4 minute.QG‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 17, tel. (+48) 61 856 01 89,
Poznań (next to City Park) www.restauracjafigaro.eu. Open 13:00-23:00 Mon-Sat,
open: mon-sat 12-23, sun 12-22 13:00-18:00 Sun. In July and August closed Sun. €€€.
T­6
phone: + 48 519 376 182
www.kyokai.pl FORNO ITALIA
email: sushi@kyokai.pl Solid B+ Roman-style pizza out of a wood-burning
oven in Poznań’s hip Jeżyce  district. Though purists will
undoubtedly go for the margherita and an espresso (or
maybe some wine), the possible pizza toppings include
salami piccante, artichokes, eggplant, taleggio, prosciutto,
and semi-dried tomatoes, and the menu also encompasses
focaccia, carpaccio, cheese boards, panna cotta, tiramisu,
and other Italian favourites. A couple outdoor tables are
available in warm weather, overlooking a Neo-Romanesque
church and a dusty street. The restaurant itself is located in
a commie-tastic pavilion, but the good news is that you
won’t have to look at the facade while inside - and the
interior is pleasant enough, with smart dark grey walls, light
wood, and industrial elements.QC‑5, ul. Kościelna 12/14,
tel. (+48) 885 62 56 25. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-
23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€. T­U­B­6

Read more reviews online:

Celebrating 10 years poznan.inyourpocket.com

62
 Restaurants
JAPANESE
KYOKAI SUSHI BAR
The City Park development just to the west of the centre
(past the Trade Fairs) is home to some of the city’s best
eating establishments and this is true for Kyokai, one of
Poznań’s most notable Japanese efforts. Laid out over two
floors, Kyokai features sushi sets revolving around a circular
bar, while a sushi sensei multitasks in the thick of it all. Set in Korean-Japanese cuisine
a series of converted red brick buildings, the surroundings Circular sushi bar
look chic and sexy, as do the clientele. Definitely one to

hour
check out, take tram 13 to the ‘Wojskowa’ stop.QA‑8,
ul. Wojskowa 4 (Łazarz), tel. (+48) 519 37 61 82, www. y
kyokai.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€€. Happ
T­U­B­6
12:00 - 17:00
RAMEN-YA All week!
This hole-in-the-wall might be tiny, awkwardly furnished,

sushi Buffet
and somewhat rudimentary, but boy, is the ramen good.
After the success of Yetztu on ul. Krysiewicza it looked like
Poznań didn’t need any more ramen joints, and yet these
boys came along and knocked the ball out of the park again. Eat all you want
The menu consists of shoyu, shio, kimchi, and mazamen
ramen (in meaty and vegan versions), plus snacks like bao 60zł per person
buns; the cooks know their stuff and food arrives super fast.
While not exactly the place for an extended sit-down, this 17:00 - 22:00 70zł per person
is one of our favourite spots for a quick bite of something
good.QC‑5, ul. Kościelna 4, tel. (+48) 731 09 73 58. Open
12:00-21:00. €€. B­6

YETZTU
Ramen, ramen, ramen - the best in Poznań, in fact (though
that notion is now being challenged with the arrival of
Ramen-Ya in Jeżyce). Tiny and decorated with assorted
cutsey Japanese paraphernalia - beckoning cats, anime
figurines, worried-looking bake-danuki - Yetztu offers
several versions of the beloved noodles, including shio
(with wontons), shoyu (with chicken), vegio (with tofu),
kamo (with chili duck), and yakitori (with yakitori). There are
also edemame beans to munch on, kakuni marinated pork
belly, kimchi, and the very bold ‘wonton nachos’.QH‑8, ul.
Bolesława Krysiewicza 6, tel. (+48) 61 840 17 12. Open
12:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. €€.
T

ZINDO SUSHI KOREAN-JAPANESE RESTAURANT

An expansion from their Warsaw and Wrocław operations,
Zindo’s modern beige-heavy space still appears to be
struggling to attract attention from the folks in Poznań.
An all-you-can-eat sushi buffet keeps the place busy, and
provides more of a bang-for-your-buck experience than
the pricier dinner menu option - drop in between 12:00
and 17:00 for 60zł/person, and 17:00-22:00 for 70zł/person
(or stay in and get Uber Eats to deliver). The Korean menu is
FREE DELIVERY WITHIN 5 KM FOR ORDERS OVER 100 ZŁ
a standout, and adventurous eaters can indulge in octopus,
fried squid, or raw fish with vegetables to test their mettle.
More traditional options like kimchi are reliably well done. ul. Kramarska 15, www.zindo.pl
QI‑7, ul. Kramarska 15, tel. (+48) 61 853 01 78, www. reservation (61) 853-01-78
zindo.pl. Open 12:00-22:30. €€€. T
63
 Restaurants
POLISH
BAZAR 1838
Set in the historic building that once housed (and will again
someday, according to rumours) the Hotel Bazar, the name
of this smart restaurant honours both the building and the
year it was built. Looking far pricier from the outside than it
actually is, the food scores well in the price to quality ratio,
and is served by a friendly English-speaking staff. Along
with imaginative interpretations of typical Polish dishes
you’ll find pastas, salads and a variety of original dishes.
Definitely a place to impress without buckling the credit
card, though you may have to protect the plastic from the
exclusive shops nearby.QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 8, tel.
(+48) 61 222 68 64, www.bazar1838.pl. Open 11:00-
22:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-20:00. €€€. U­B

CHŁOPSKIE JADŁO
Anyone who has set foot in Poland before will have most
likely eaten in Chłopskie Jadło - a national chain which
offers good old Polish grub at a reasonable price. This new
Poznań location nails the formula, and trademark tourist-
approved standards like various types of pierogi, hearty
cutlets, and sour rye soup in bread are as good here as you’ll
find anywhere. The interior is also refreshingly modern,
while retaining some folksy motifs, and a playground for
kids makes this a good option for families. As is the case
with most Polish restaurants, you’ll be leaving extremely
filled with a smile on your face and a willingness to come
back.QF‑7, ul. Fredry 12, tel. (+48) 725 10 05 25, www.
chlopskiejadlo.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-
23:00. €€. T­U­B

HYĆKA
While many restaurants in Poznań  serve traditional
Wielkopolska  duck (served with cabbage, apples, and
dumplings) and pyry z gzikiem (potatoes with cottage
cheese), Hyćka is the most reliable spot to sample a wider
array of regional eats, including czernina (duck blood soup),
TRY FRESH, grey dumplings (made with shredded potatoes), ‘szagówki’
dumplings, and the namesake hyćka, an elderflower cordial

SEASONAL CUISINE
(also served in lemonade form). Though the decor isn’t
spectacular and there are better places to eat in Śródka, it’s
still worth keeping this place on your radar if you’re after
WITH OUR LOCAL very authentic Poznań fare.QL‑6, Rynek Śródecki 17, tel.
(+48) 535 04 50 35, www.hycka.pl. Open 11:00-21:00;
Mon 11:00-20:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-20:00.
INSPIRATIONS! €€. T­6

NA WINKLU
Plebeian boiled pierogi with meat or cheese and potatoes
can be had in countless restaurants in Poznań, but Śródka’s
Na Winklu (On the Corner) goes beyond, focusing on
Restauracja RYNEK baked dumplings instead. Hide away in their small but hip
3/9 Bukowska str., Poznań interior and sample creations with unorthodox ingredients
www.rynekpoznan.pl like dried tomatoes and mozzarella, liver and apple, blood
sausage, or Mexican-style ground beef.QL‑6, ul. Śródka 1,
Phone. 600 554 319 tel. (+48) 796 14 50 04. Open 12:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-
19:00. €€. U­6
64
 Restaurants
OBERŻA POD DZWONKIEM
Resembling a traditional mountain lodge, ‘Under the Bell’ is
bursting with giant timber beams, beautiful 200-year-old
wooden furniture, rusty machinery, old pots and pans, piles
of dusty books - even the barstools are fashioned out of
saddles. It all contributes to a congenial rustic atmosphere,
but the  philosophy of the kitchen is hardly the throwback
that the interior suggests. The menu has recently shifted
from twists on  traditional Polish fare to more international
creations like corn crepes with pulled pork and portobello
mushrooms, pork ribs with bacon and beetroot carpaccio, or
Black Angus steak. A ‘tapas set’ of their most popular dishes
is available on request, and 18zł daily-special lunch is served
14:00-18:00 Tue-Fri.QI‑7, ul. Garbary 54, tel. (+48) 61 851
99 70, www.oberza.com.pl. Open 14:00-22:00; Sat 13:00-
22:00; Sun 13:00-18:00; closed Mon. €€. T­U­B­6

OSKOMA
Oskoma is the lair of Top Chef Poland finalist Adam
Adamczak, who cooks up seasonally-changing, gourmet
‘new Polish’ dishes. Recently on the menu were creme of
sorrel and nettles soup with smoked egg yolk, river trout,
potatoes, and pickled wild garlic; beef tenderloin with
Lithuanian kibinai pastries, celery, truffles, gooseberry and
bacon jam, and smoked plum sauce; Siberian sturgeon
caviar with buckwheat blini and mizeria cucumber salad
(for a whopping 270zł); and much much more, all of which
made us salivate intensely. Pair your meal with a glass of fine TRADITIONAL
red from Oskoma’s extensive wine list and enjoy a refined POLISH CUISINE A.D.1954
evening in this modern, understated Jeżyce eatery.QD‑6,
ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. (+48) 728 44 21 65, www.oskoma. WHERE KING JAN II KAZIMIERZ WAZA
pl. Open 08:00-22:00; Sun 08:00-20:00. €€€. T­B RESIDED IN 16571658 YOU MAY SAVOUR
AUTHENTIC TRADITIONAL POLISH CUISINE
AND DISHES OF AN INTERNATIONAL FLAVOUR
RATUSZOVA EXPERTLY PREPARED BY OUR HIGHLY
One of the longest-running establishments in town, and EXPERIENCED CHEF. FOUR DIFFERENT
with good reason. Located right on the main square, AREAS ARE AVAILABLE FOR OUR GUESTS:
Ratuszova serves up a vast array of healthy and modern RESTAURANT, CAFE,
BAR & SUMMER GARDEN
seasonal dishes using the innovative sous vide method not
found in many other Poznań restaurants. If the beautiful and
unique interior doesn’t impress you (and it should) then the
menu surely will. Prepare to indulge yourself with classics
such as steak, roast duck with apple, duck pierogi, czernina
(duck blood) soup, sour rye soup, lamb,  fresh fish, and
other Polish standards, or pop in just for coffee and cake.
Two-course lunch is served Mon-Fri 12:00-17:00 for only
19zł. A perfect spot to spoil yourself.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 55,
tel. (+48) 61 851 05 13, www.ratuszova.pl. Open 12:00-
23:00. €€€. T­B­6

RESTAURACJA BAMBERKA
A long-standing restaurant squirrelled away in the complex
of buildings at the centre of the town square. Step in and
you’ll find stained glass panels, floral touches, and a strong
European menu that includes a good selection of local
dishes like duck with cabbage and dumplings, czernina WWW.RATUSZOVA.PL
(duck blood soup), potatoes with gzik, gray dumplings
with cabbage, and blood sausage.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 2, +48 618 510 513
tel. (+48) 61 852 99 17, www.bamberka.com.pl. Open
11:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-23:00. €€. T­B­6
65
 Restaurants
RYNEK
Sheraton’s newest upscale dining offering is Rynek (The
Main Square), which offers creative, seasonally-changing
‘new Polish’ dishes like ‘cold bowls’ with cold borscht,
marinated beets, caramelised wallnuts, yogurt, and bee
pollen, or with sorrel, wilk garlic, smoked river trout, raisins,
baked celery, and cannabis oil; Polish-Japanese fusion
tartare with marinated mushrooms, hay-smoked salt, and
cured egg yolk; and hot plates which include fancy takes on
Duck with dumplings pierogi, gołąbki (mushrooms and rice in a cabbage leaf ), and
and red cabbage fried crayfish. Extravagant and delectable. A buffet breakfast
makes an appearance Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30 and weekends
7:30-11:00.QD‑7, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznan
Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www.rynekpoznan.pl.
Open 06:30-24:00; Sat, Sun 07:30-24:00. €€€. T­U

WIEJSKIE JADŁO
Wiejskie Jadło is just what you expect from a Polish
restaurant - a warm wooden interior, bustling staff, and big
decent portions of hearty grub. We enjoyed the żurek soup
and after gut-busting sausages, it’s good we didn’t have
far to go - they’re located just off the market square.QI‑7,
Stary Rynek 77 (entrance from ul. Franciszkańska), tel.
(+48) 61 853 66 00, www.wiejskie-jadlo.pl. Open 12:00-
22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. €€. T­U­B­6
Stary Rynek 77
(entrance from the Franciszkańska street)
tel. (+48) 618 53 66 00, www.wiejskie-jadlo.pl SEAFOOD
RESTAURACJA MOMO
At Momo pasta dishes, steak, and salads are all on offer, but
it’s the fresh seafood that really stands out. The specialty is
the 80zł seafood plate filled with mussels, calamari, baby
squid, and prawns, but the chef creates new delightful and
imaginative dishes daily, with  the first page of the menu
changed each morning. Of the two rooms to choose from,
we prefer the smaller and cosier one, but many diners will
no doubt prefer to keep an eye on the open kitchen. In
ul Garbary 54 the warm season, you can also sit out on a terrace hidden
+48 61 851 99 70 behind the building.QI‑7, ul. Szewska 2, tel. (+48) 501 41
51 36, www.momolovebite.pl. Open 13:00-23:00; Mon,
Sun 13:00-21:00. €€€. T­B­6

THAI
THAI THAI
From fresh oysters, monkfish in red curry, and crispy duck,
to classics like pad thai, green curry, and mango with sticky
rice, this high-end Thai chain prepares veritable Southeast
Asian feasts in a refined interior with dark wood, floral
lattices, and Buddha ornaments. Top the experience off
with a bottle of fine red, or try the 35zł lunches, served from
Typical Polish
Cuisine 12:00 till 16:00 on weekdays. QA‑9, ul. Wojskowa 4, tel.
Slow Food (+48) 885 19 98 85, www.thaithai.pl. Open 12:00-22:00;
Vegan Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€€. B
Vegetarian
Eco products WHY THAI FOOD & WINE
enu
Also gluten free m Why Thai, why not? This fresh, cool, and comfortable
modern restaurant refuses to bow down to the standard
‘silk road’ school of Asian interior design. An absolute
66
 Restaurants
insistence on using fresh ingredients, unpolluted by
MSG or other flavour enhancing poisons, guarantees the
dishes have a light and natural taste. The well-conceived
menu is neither overly long nor cryptically complicated;
our go-to is lamb in massaman curry or classic pad thai.
If you’re particularly nosy and need to know what the
Thai cooks are up to try to be seated in the smaller area
of the restaurant with its glass-fronted view into the
kitchen.QI‑7, ul. Kramarska 7, tel. (+48) 61 818 29 11,
www.whythai.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Mon, Sun 12:00-
22:00. €€€. T­6

VEGETARIAN
FALLA
Falafel bowls so good, they make us want to weep. From
the assorted pickles to the creamy hummus to the highly
addictive seasoned pita bread, Falla churns out dishes
that are not only expertly prepared, but also beautifully
presented. First-timers will be wise to go for Fatima’s Hand,
an impressive assortment of Falla’s best creations, which
actually does come in the shape of a hand. Also on the
menu: seasonal dishes taking advantage of whatever Polish
greengrocers currently have to offer, wraps, shakshouka,
Turkish ayran, cocktails, and more. All this in a warm and
stylish interior with industrial elements, squirrelled away
in Poznań’s hip Jeżyce district. Recommended.QB‑6, ul.
Wawrzyniaka 19, tel. (+48) 576 95 04 73. Open 12:00-
21:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-22:00. €€. T­U­B­6

RESTAURACJA NADZIEJA NEW

Promising concept, but poor execution: Nadzieja (the
reincarnation of the cult vegan restaurant JE SUS,
which diappeared from Poznań a few years back) offers
vegetarian and vegan dishes with ‘health food’ ingredients
like einkorn wheat, aquafaba (water left behind after
boiling lentils), and flax oil, but with only three mains on
the menu we found the choice lacking and the gołąbki
(saffron rice with black lentils wrapped in a cabbage
leaf, with roasted tomato sauce) not very palatable. To
make matters worse,  the service is hopelessly slow and
disorganized. However, others praise the mezze platter
and the large breakfast menu (which includes challah
bread with toppings, rice pudding, coconut yogurt,
shakshouka, and more), so we won’t write this place off
quite yet.QD‑7, ul. Zwierzyniecka 3/1, tel. (+48) 573 06
69 54. Open 07:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 07:00-23:00; closed
Sun. €€. U­B­6

WYPAS
Widely regarded as Poz’s best vegan haunt, Wypas is known
for heaping plates of “a bit of everything”; choose your
adventure from Japanese, Middle Eastern, Mexican, Polish,
or Spanish - or perhaps a nice ol’ bowl of ramen or tom kha
soup. Bring your eating pants (trousers for you Brits) and
wrestle local plant-eaters for seats at this below-ground
hole-in-the-wall.QB‑6, ul. Jackowskiego 38, tel. (+48)
796 14 41 15. Open 10:00-22:00; Mon, Tue, Sun 10:00-
18:00. €€. T­6
67
 Nightlife
One of the many fancy creations at Twelve Cocktails (p.75).
Poznań bars are flexible - no matter what the official
closing times are, most bars and pubs will stay open until
the last customer has stumbled out. Most night spots are
concentrated around the Old Town Square, but also check
out ul. Nowowiejskiego (G‑6) and ul. Taczaka (F/G‑8)
- both of which draw students in droves. If you don’t see
it listed here, visit our website - poznan.inyourpocket.
com - for reviews of almost every place in town, and the
opportunity to leave your comments about all of them.
Below are a few suggestions depending on what you
might be looking for:
SPLURGE
The best cocktails in Poznań are found in Twelve
Cocktails (p.75) and Bar Susznia (p.69), with the
latter conveniently situated close to one of the most
exclusive danceterias in town - SQ (p.77). If your poison
is whisky, look no further than the upscale Dram: Whisky
Explorers Bar (p.72).
SQUARE
With so many options, Poz’s Rynek can be overwhelming.
Without doubt the most popular place is Brovaria
(p.72), which regularly sees people queuing for tables
in order to enjoy the in-house brewed beers. Of course
it’s impossible not to mention Pacha (p.77) here - the
legendary Ibiza club which has brought its international
cred and celebrity crowds to Poz; good luck getting in.
For the plebs, it’s the ever-popular Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa
(p.74), of course.
68
LADS
If you need to catch the match, Poz has a rather classy sports
bar in the Sheraton’s Someplace Else (p.75). Ministerstwo
Browaru (p.74) emphasises plenty of obscure beers
(including their own) for connoisseurs, while Brovaria
(p.72) has excellent lagers brewed right on-site. Keep the
night going in Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa (p.74), a cheap late-
night eatery on the Rynek that will help you offset your
hangover with piles of white sausage and pickled herring;
it’s also a great place to meet the locals. In the summer,
check out the city’s many beer gardens (p.76).
COUPLES
Another vote for Twelve Cocktails (p.75) and Bar
Susznia (p.69), the two best destinations for seductive
cocktails. Those who prefer wine should check out Casa
de Vinos (p.72) and Wino na Kieliszki (p.72), and if it’s
entertainment you’re after, head to Blue Note Jazz Club
(p.73), which attracts great international performers to
serenade your better half.
ALTERNATIVE
Catch an underground concert or an obscure film screening
at the cultural peculiarity that is Pies Andaluzyjski
(p.73), participate in the Polish craft beer obsession at
Piwna Stopa (p.74) and Ministerstwo Browaru (p.74),
party with hipsters at the riverside shipping-container
extravaganza KontenerART (p.50), check out street art
at Perygród (p.50), or try a self-serve wine bar concept at
Wino na Kieliszki (p.72).
 Nightlife
SYMBOL KEY
N Credit cards not accepted C‑1 Map Coordinate

U Facilities for the disabled 6 Animal friendly

X Smoking room available E Live music

B Outside seating

BARS & PUBS

BAR SUSZNIA
Whoa, if there’s one place that keeps leaving an impact it’s
the Blow Up. Their bar is the final word in industrial chic,
with metal floors, exposed brickwork, and ceilings that
stretch to the clouds. The artwork is mad, and deliberately
messes with your head, as do the molecular cocktails, truly
the work of a scientific hand. An in-house cigar lounge and
extensive selection of wines complete the look; it’s not often
we attach the word unmissable to a venue, so take note
and visit.QG‑9, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel. (+48) 61 657 99 91,
www.blowuphall5050.com. Open 17:00-01:00. X­U

BASILIUM
A smart and cosy little location found just off the Rynek,
Enjoy your evenings
and well-loved by the entire IYP team. Warm lighting and
decorations ranging from old gramophones to flattened beer at SomePlace Else!
bottles suspended from the ceiling help create a laid-back
atmosphere, but the main reason for parking yourself in one
of the comfy chairs or propping yourself up an empty wooden
barrel is the vast selection of beer on offer. Whilst there are a
few on draught, it’s the rows and rows of bottles on the shelves
that will have you gawping and unsure quite where to start.
With over 150 brews, this is one of the best craft beer bars in
Poz. In addition to this, there’s a nice selection of snacks.QI‑7,
ul. Woźna 21, tel. (+48) 790 33 37 56. Open 15:00-01:00; Fri
15:00-02:00; Sat 13:00-02:00; Sun 13:00-24:00. U­B­6

BISTRO TANCERECZKA
An assortment of Polish snacks and small dishes like beef
tartare, sour rye soup, and potatoes with quark cheese
accompany a large selection of booze including vodka
(they even make their own pear-flavoured kind), craft happy hours
beer, prosecco, and mixed drinks. It’s loud, it’s hip - there’s
simply no escaping the exposed brick, fairy lights, and delicious burgers and steaks
street-inspired wall art - and the folks here are having a
good time. You can even purchase small bottles of that craft beers and great drinks
pear vodka as souvenirs for the whomever you left back
home.QH‑8, ul. Wrocławska 18 (entrance from ul.
Jaskółcza), tel. (+48) 730 90 15 48. Open 18:00-02:00;
sport events live stream
Wed, Thu 18:00-04:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-07:00. 6
SomePlace Else (Sheraton Poznan Hotel)
3/9 Bukowska Str., Poznan
Get the In Your Pocket phone: 61 655 2000
www.poznan.someplace-else.pl
City Essentials App

69
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WINE BARS
CASA DE VINOS
Thirty seconds from bustling Półwiejska Street, Casa
de Vinos wine bar serves as an ideal stop-off for those
who know they deserve a relaxing glass of wine (or
two) after a hard day of shopping and sightseeing. The
friendly and knowledgeable staff are happy enough to
talk you through the 300 plus bottles on display before
offering you a comfy seat in which to enjoy your final
choice. It’s small, it’s intimate and it makes for a perfect
little place to sample some of the finest wines from
around the globe. Keep your credit card at hand - you’ll
be needing it when it comes to ordering a bottle or
three to take back home.QH‑8, ul. Krysiewicza 5/2,
tel. (+48) 61 815 28 26, www.casadevinos.pl. Open
11:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-22:00; closed Sun.
WINO NA KIELISZKI (WINE BY THE GLASS)
The city’s first self-serve wine bar, ‘Wine by the Glass’ lets
you pour your own vintage from a selection of forty.
Just load up a pre-paid card by the bar, order a cheese
board or some nice tapas, and enjoy your Dionysiac
evening. Recommended.  QG‑6, ul. Młyńska 12, tel.
(+48) 61 627 03 00, www.mlynska12.pl/wino-na-
kieliszki. Open 18:00-24:00; Sat 18:00-01:30; closed
Mon, Sun. U­6­
72
BROVARIA
Brovaria feels an integral part of Poznań life, and it’s
certainly become established as the main expat haunt
since the demise of Dom Vikingów. Yet while it feels an
ingrained piece of Poznań one look at the design reveals
a modern, industrial space, one where steel and glass
combine to create a sharp looking area that looks as
edgy now as when it first opened. However, coming here
to admire the interiors would be missing the point; this
place is all about beer, namely the excellent house lagers
that are brewed out back in the copper vats. Here’s one
of the best microbreweries in Poland, quite possibly the
best: enjoy it.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 73-74 (Brovaria Hotel),
tel. (+48) 61 858 68 68, www.brovaria.pl. Open 10:00-
01:00. B
CHMIELNIK
One of the best bars on ul. Żydowska, Chmielnik sports
a smart wood and stone interior, on-site brewing tanks,
and a spot-on selection of microbrews to pull in a trendy
20-something crowd. The seasonal garden out back is a
summer staple, and it has recently expanded, along with
the entire locale. Hands down, this is one of our favourite
places for lazy get-togethers that go late into the night.
QI‑6, ul. Żydowska 27, tel. (+48) 790 33 39 46. Open
16:00-24:00; Thu 16:00-01:00; Fri 16:00-02:00; Sat 13:00-
02:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. B­6
COOLIOZUM
We were a little sceptical at the beginning but this place
is unquestionably Poznań’s best sports bar. This isn’t the
dark, divey venue you may be used to, rather a large
modern space involving ice white sofas and a blue-lit
bar; TVs aside, other bonuses include around 120 beers,
as well as foosball and a few poker tables which seem
to have a steady flow of customers. Head through the
archway at no. 45 and find it down some stairs on your
left.QG‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 45, tel. (+48) 783 48 76 91,
www.cooliozum.pl. 6
DRAM WHISKY EXPLORERS BAR
Yo ho ho and a bottle of whisky! Put on your explorer’s
hat and set sail for the famed world of aged spirits. This
classy, leather-heavy bar just off the main square offers not
just a great selection of upscale alcohol (including fancy
cocktails), but also open and private tasting sessions, live
music, gourmet appetisers (like ash-coated cheese with
apricot preserves and grissini), and food pairing advice.
Those overwhelmed by choice will do well to try one of the
two seasonal tasting sets, comprising three distinct types
of whisky each. QH‑7, Stary Rynek 92, tel. (+48) 739 90
31 97, www.dram.bar. Open 18:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-
02:00; closed Mon, Sun. B­E­
Read more reviews online:
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 Nightlife
FORT COLOMB
Fort Colomb, part of the inner ring of old Prussian DRAM WHISKY EXPLORERS BAR
fortifications,  sometimes gets overlooked on account of WHISKY. COCKTAILS. TRAVELS.
its location – a bit out of the old town and closer to the
main train station - but it really shouldn’t. During the / Stary Rynek 92 - Old City Poznań
summer, we take every opportunity to get away from the / Tue-Thu 18:00 - 00:00
hustle, bustle, and loud drunks of the main square and / Fri-Sat 18:00 - 02:00
/ +48 739 903 197
hide away in the leafy garden of this splendidly historic
/ table@dram.bar
building, located right in Park Marcinkowskiego.QF‑8, ul. / www.dram.bar
Powstanców Wielkopolskich, tel. (+48) 609 99 02 82,
www.fortcolomb.pl. Open 14:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 14:00-
02:00; Sun 17:00-02:00. X­B­E

#HASHTAG
Hashtag hashtag? Okay then. Tailor-made for the 2010’s
social media crowd, this Old Town establishment serves
up #trendycocktails  and #funkyshots to post on your @
instagram account, #housebeats  to tweet about, and
#interiordecor touches straight from pinterest. Just don’t
get too rambunctious, or you’ll have to untag yourself from
unflattering facebook pictures the next day.  QH‑7, ul.
Wrocławska 7, tel. (+48) 570 88 12 97. Open 15:00-02:00;
Wed, Thu 15:00-03:00; Fri, Sat 15:00-05:00. B­E­6

HOLA HOLA
The current ‘place to be’ on ul. Wrocławska, Hola Hola
is swarmed by loud revellers the minute the sun sets on
a weekend night. You can’t miss it when walking along
Poznań’s party street, and if you like to drink in the centre of
action, this might just be for you (if not, consider checking
out their less crowded basement). The hip-n-cool checklist
gets all checks: trendy light fixtures, exposed brick, and
drinks served in mason jars are basically obligatory these
days.QH‑7, ul. Wrocławska 10. Open 17:00-02:00; Thu
17:00-03:00; Fri, Sat 17:00-05:00. W
ISTNY WINE TAPAS BEER
Refined but mercifully laid back (leave that tie at home),
ISTNY offers a selection of 11 wines, 11 beers, and 2 ciders
- all on tap - in a hip, industrial interior. Make sure to grab
an assortment of tapas, which include pickled garlic cloves,
Turkish brine cheese, prosciutto, chorizo, jamón serrano,
and olives.QH‑8, ul. Podgórna 12, tel. (+48) 606 61 04
30. Open 18:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-02:00; closed Sun.
6 QF‑7, ul. Kościuszki 79, tel. (+48) 61 851 04 08,
MIEJSCÓWKA
Once the city’s most representative street, Św. Marcin
has long been a snooze lane crammed with mediocre
establishments you’d hurry past on your way to the main
square. Luckily, the tide is starting to turn with the addition
of increasingly recommendation-worthy restaurants and
bars - and here’s one. Very ‘current’ what with the neons,
exposed brick, and Pinteresty glassware, Miejscówka
might not be the most original, but it does earn our seal
of approval, and probably Instagram’s as well. The target
group here is the more hipster types, so expect lots of
whimsical cocktails and colourful shots.QG‑8, ul. Święty
Marcin 29. Open 19:00-02:00.
LIVE MUSIC
BLUE NOTE JAZZ CLUB
A vast multi-level jazz club whose spangly interior
has shades of 90s club tragedy written all over
it. Don’t let that discourage you, however; this is
a legendary venue that has hosted some of the
biggest names in Polish and international jazz. Do
check their website for what’s cooking first - this
space has been known to be rented out for teen hip-
hop nights and other hooded-top twaddle, and if
there’s no concert scheduled then they aren’t open.
www.bluenote.poznan.pl. Open 45 min before
event; check website. E
PIES ANDALUZYJSKI
“Theatre / music / vodka” - this is how ‘An
Andalusian Dog’ describes itself in short. Named
after the 1929 surrealist short film by Luis
Buñuel and Salvador Dalí, this eccentric den
supplements its already alluring atmosphere with
concerts, workshops, and performances.QG‑6,
ul. Nowowiejskiego 17, tel. (+48) 505 27 91
21. Open 18:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-03:00; Sun
18:00-24:00; closed Mon. X­E
73
 Nightlife
POLISH VODKA
© Pijalnia Wodki, Fabrizio Sciami
The Poles have been producing and drinking vodka
since the early Middle Ages, distilling their skill into some
of the best vodka blends available in the world. The two
most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands must be
Belvedere and Chopin, both of which you’ll find in any
alcohol shop. But you won’t find many tipplers throwing
them back at the bar. While clear vodkas are generally
reserved for weddings and mixed drinks, the real fun of
Polish vodka sampling is the flavoured vodkas, the most
popular of which we describe below.
WIŚNIÓWKA
Undoubtedly the most common flavoured vodka,
wiśniówka is cheap and cherry-flavoured. You’ll see
students and pensioners alike buying trays of it at
the bar, as well as toothless tramps sharing a bottle in
corners of tenement courtyards. A splash of grapefruit
juice is often added to cut the sweetness of this bright
red monogamy cure.
ŻOŁĄDKOWA GORZKA
Due to its very name, which translates to something like
‘Bitter Stomach Vodka,’ Żołądkowa Gorzka gives even the
most infirm of health an excuse to drink under the guise of
its medicinal properties. An aged, amber-coloured vodka
flavoured with herbs and spices, Żołądkowa is incredibly
palatable and best enjoyed when sipped on ice.
KRUPNIK
A sweet vodka made from honey and a multitude of
herbs. Buy a bottle for Mum – drinking vodka doesn’t
get any easier than this. In winter, hot krupnik is a
popular personal defroster with hot water, lemon and
mulling spices added.
ŻUBRÓWKA
One of Poland’s most popular overseas vodka exports,
Żubrówka has been produced in Eastern Poland since
the 16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass specific
to Białowieża Forest (a blade of which appears in each
bottle), Żubrówka is faint yellow in colour, with a mild
fragrance and taste of mown hay. Delightfully smooth as
it is on its own, Żubrówka is most commonly combined
with apple juice – a refreshing concoction called a ‘tatanka.’
74
MINISTERSTWO BROWARU
One of our favourite haunts for Polish craft beers; find
AleBrowar brews like Black Hope and Rowing Jack on tap
alongside the establishment’s own Ministerstwo beers and
top-rated European names like Delirium Tremens. If we had
it our way all pubs would be run by folks as knowledgeable
as these fellows, who’ve boiled it down to wood benches,
outdoor seating, and great beer. If you’re up before it’s
afternoon, you’ll find the equally awesome Minister
Cafe upstairs. Second pub localization at ul. Wroniecka
16.QG‑8, ul. Ratajczaka 34, tel. (+48) 601 53 37 47. Open
16:00-02:00. B­6
NASTAWNIA POC
Ok, so the staff here are aloof at best and completely
detached from reality at worst, but Nastawnia PoC’s
location in a converted rail signal box ensures its
permanent place on our ‘unusual drinking spots’ list.
With large glass windows, outdoor seating, and leafy
Wieniawskiego Park off to one side, it’s a welcome
alternative to the boisterous drinking scene of the
old town. A word of recommendation - skip the food
and stick to the booze.QE‑6, ul. Noskowskiego 1
(Wieniawskiego Park), tel. (+48) 61 670 00 70, www.
nastawniapoc.pl. Open 12:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-
02:00. T­U­B
PIJALNIA WÓDKI I PIWA
The newspapered interior and nostalgic communist-era
concept here are exactly the same as their dozens of
locations all over the country (including a second in Poz
at ul. Wrocławska 8, C-2): dirt cheap booze and dirt cheap
grub like pickled herring and ‘awesome toasts’ to soak up
the aforementioned booze. This place is packed at all
hours, though it’s best sampled during the later stages of
the evening when you’re guaranteed a right assortment
of characters who are happy to spill out their life story
for the price of a 4.50zł beer. Very ‘Polish’ and a welcome
alternative to some of the Rynek’s more expensive and
snobby bars. Karaoke nights take place Mon, Tue, Thu,
and Sun  20:00-02:00.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 85, tel. (+48)
791 85 95 55. Open 09:00-05:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-05:00.
U
PIWNA STOPA
Heralded for its broad selection - around 200 bottled
beers and 16 on tap - Piwna Stopa is wildly popular
with beer connoisseurs who don’t give two craps about
trendy light fixtures or the instagrammability of the
interior decor. Not that it’s bad: there’s a certain Czech
tavern feel what with the old-fashioned wooden chairs,
wall lamps, and framed miscellanea, and live bands
play jazz, blues, and rock during the warm season. Their
leafy summer garden is highly recommendable, as are
the smoked-sausage hot dogs and other meaty treats
(there’s even venison!).QI‑6, ul. Szewska 7, tel. (+48)
793 90 86 00, www.piwnastopa.pl. Open 15:00-24:00;
Thu 15:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 13:00-02:00; Sun 13:00-
24:00. B­6
 Nightlife
PRL PUB
There’s two communist theme bars in Poznań, and this
place has the lower profile, the non-existent marketing
budget, and a tiny entrance that’s easy to miss. But it’s
certainly not second best, and if anything its underground
chambers make it all the more convincing in its role as a
hidden piece of history. Packed with memorabilia from the
People’s Republic, and that includes pictures of Soviet icons
and even a riot shield once used to suppress the striking
proletaryat.QI‑6, ul. Żydowska 11 (entrance from ul.
Mokra). Open 16:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 16:00-02:00. X

PROLETARYAT
So what if Stalin killed umpteen times more people than
Hitler? Communism can be a hoot, at least it is if you’re
drunk, so head to this commie bar and raise a glass to Uncle
Joe. Quality local lager, 4zł vodka shots, and - of course -
an assortment of classic Eastern European drinking snacks
like pickles and bread smeared with lard  - ensure  nights
aren’t dull, and you’ll find this piece of socialist paradise
decidedly stuffed with Cold War keepsakes and Iron
Curtain mementos. Pride of place goes to Lenin, with his
giant plaster head peering through the street-side window.
QI‑7, ul. Wrocławska 9, tel. (+48) 508 17 36 08. Open
15:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 15:00-04:00. B­6

SOMEPLACE ELSE
SPE is a natural born winner – few places are better geared to
meet foreign demands, and while the prices are undoubtedly
steep (do you expect anything else from the Sheraton?), it’s
a place where foreigners and locals mix with seamless ease,
chatting about travels while sports beam down from their 9 TVs.
American in spirit, you’ll find Route 66 extras mingled with rock
pics, a strong menu of Tex Mex, burgers, and steaks, as well as
more whimsical touches such as a car bonnet bursting from the
wall. Taking centre stage is a circular bar, the perfect base to chat
to staff while they fix earthquake cocktails and velvet smooth
Guinness. Happy hours commence at 16:00 and go until 20:00
Mon-Sat.QD‑7, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznan Hotel),
tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www.poznan.someplace-else.pl.
Open 18:00-24:00; closed Sun. U­B­E­

TWELVE COCKTAILS & CO.

Located in the svelte Młyńska  12 business centre, also
home to The Time restaurant and Wino na Kieliszki wine bar,
Twelve Cocktails offer mouthwatering signature creations
like Sky High (with gin, peach liquor, orange, rosehip,
and butterfly pea tea), Forget Me Not (vodka, blueberry
liquor, cranberries, sparkling wine, and young barley), and
Garden Pie (Cîroc vodka, gooseberry chutney, egg white,
and vanilla bitters). For something truly special, check
out their luxurious cocktails (120-150zł a pop) made with
such extravagant ingredients as heather foam, glitter, and
blueberry-agave caviar. The Piaf cocktail even comes served
on an oldschool vinyl. To feel even more glanorous, take
the stairs to the rooftop, where you can admire panoramic
views of Poznań.QG‑6, ul. Młyńska 12, tel. (+48) 61 627
03 23, www.mlynska12.pl/twelve. Open Wed, Thu 17:00-
24:00; Fri, Sat 19:00-02:00 only. X­U­E­W
75
 Nightlife
UŁAN BROWAR
Brewing up some decent craft beer to drink alongside
regionally-inspired pub grub, Ułan is a new addition to
the Poz’s City Park complex located in lovingly refurbished
Ułan/Uhlan (Polish light cavalry) barracks. The military links
might end at the name, but that makes no difference to
those who come here to watch the big game with their
mates, play some pool, or listen to the occasional stand-
up.  QA‑10, ul. Wyspiańskiego 26, tel. (+48) 888 08 52
22, www.ulanbrowar.pl. Open 13:00-23:00; Thu, Fri, Sat
13:00-24:00. T­U­B­6
UMBERTO
Perfect al fresco drinking in the leafy (and very historical)
Citadel Park. While the food offer in Umberto is so-so,
the outdoor lounge area with deck chairs is one of our
favourite chill-out spots in the summer, especially since it
provides ample shade. Choose from Browar Fortuna beer,
a selection of wines, standard cocktails, and non-alcoholic
drinks.QH‑3, al. Cytadelowców, Citadel Park, tel. (+48)
61 670 08 99, www.umberto.com.pl. Open 11:00-22:00.
U­B­6
WHISKEY IN THE JAR
What with Stary Rynek being most people’s first port of
call, it’s always good to have a bit of variety. Whiskey in
BEER GARDENS
The leafy garden of Piwna Stopa
Poznań is all about al fresco drinking in the summer. The
most visible beer gardens are located around the
perimeter of the Old Town Square,  but for leafier
alternatives try Piwna Stopa (p.73), Fort Colomb
(p.72), Citadel Park’s Umberto, the outdoor bar at
the back of Stary Browar (p.35), and the backyards
of ul. Żydowska (p.33). Street art enthusiasts will feel
right at home in the seasonal Perygród (p.50), the
headquarters of graffiti character Pan Peryskop (the
Watcher), hipsters should head right to the artsy stack
of shipping oontainers that is KontenerART (p.50), and
those who seek peace and quiet with a view can check
out the Przystań Na Chwilę beach bar (p.51). For
food, music, and crowds, there's also the summer-long
Social Night Market (p.50) occupying an abandoned
railway depot.
76
the Jar ticks the box for ‘good-old-fashioned rock ‘n’ roll
bar,’ but this isn’t your typical grubby rock pub - rather a
classy joint serving steaks and burgers and killer cocktails
guaranteed to leave your head spinning (Don’t believe
us? See how many of their Jack Daniel’s Whiskey Jars you
can work your way through in one sitting). Keep in mind
that the kitchen closes at 23:30 Mon-Sat and 22:30 Sun.
QI‑7, Stary Rynek 100, tel. (+48) 515 72 03 36, www.
whiskeyinthejar.pl. Open 13:00-01:00; Sat, Sun 12:00-
01:00. B­E­6­
WHISKY BAR 88
Steal yourself away to the darkened surroundings of Whisky
Bar in City Park where you will find the ideal conditions to sit
back and enjoy one of well over 900 different types of the
sainted liquid. Whether you’re looking for whiskey, whisky,
or whatever it is in Japanese, you will not be disappointed
with the elegantly backlit display cases holding some
wonderful choices including some 25-year old single malts.
Comfortable chairs and a modern take on an ‘open-fire’
complete the picture.QA‑9, ul. Wyspiańskiego 26A (City
Park Hotel & Residence), tel. (+48) 888 32 18 88, www.
whiskybar88.pl. Open 16:00-01:00; Sun 16:00-24:00.
U­E
WIŚNIEWSKI NEW
The spotlight here is firmly on wiśniówka, traditional Polish
cherry vodka made in small batches by Wiśniewski’s crew.
With bottles of their product lining the walls, discrete
neons, and huge cherry lights dangling from the ceiling,
this unique bar offers more than your run-of-the-mill
alcohol experience. Grab a shot for 11zł or a 0.7L bottle for
79zł.QH‑7, ul. Wrocławska 21/2, tel. (+48) 693 07 07 70,
www.wisniewski.ltd. Open 12:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-
03:00. U­B­6
CLUBS
Not exactly Poland’s party capital, Poznań nevertheless
has a functional clubbing scene for the city’s college
students and revellers to blow off steam. Though some
establishments only open their doors on weekends or
select days of the week, near-nightly thrills are available
at Cuba Libe (closed Sun), and the big cheese in town is
the international franchise Pacha (yes, the place with the
cherries).
CUBA LIBRE
Set down a shadowy courtyard basement, Cuba Libre is
a bouncy Latin venue replete with whitewashed walls,
pics of Che, and wall space dedicated to an assortment
of Cuban goodies. This place goes for detail, so much
so that drinkers can even take a seat in one of those
clapped-out vintage bangers you see pootling round
the streets of Havana. The Fiesta Latino Fridays and
Disco Latino Saturdays prove seriously popular.QH‑8,
ul. Wrocławska 21, tel. (+48) 61 855 23 44, www.
cuba-libre.pl. Open 22:00-05:00; Fri, Sat 21:00-05:00;
closed Sun. X­E

CZARNA OWCA
A local institution. Upstairs is a noisy wood-furnished bar,
downstairs a hot labyrinthine club. Music is usually no more
challenging than chart hits, though they do occasionally
draw reputable DJ’s and a crowd hell-bent on tipping lots
of booze down their gobholes.QH‑8, ul. Jaskółcza 13, tel.
(+48) 537 67 47 57, www.klub-czarnaowca.pl. Open Fri,
Sat only 21:00-05:00. X
CZEKOLADA
Credit crunch you say? Not in Poznań, people. While the rest
of the world staggers around like a shot pig the denizens
of Poznań are living the high life in places like Czekolada.
To call this place sexy would be a disservice; this is the final
word in design drinking and the sort of cocktail spot/lounge
club the city deserves. Huge chandeliers, shiny surfaces, and
black finishes lend a real svelte look to this spot, and you’d be
a fool to turn up looking like anything less than a celebrity.
To make a reservation, head to their website of facebook.
QH‑8, ul. Wrocławska 18, tel. (+48) 665 55 08 91, www.
klubczekolada.pl. Open Thu, Fri, Sat only 22:00-05:00. X
PACHA
Pacha? As in, the world’s most famous clubbing franchise
Pacha? In Poznań? We’re as shocked as you, but yep, those
cherries are real, and this is the only Pacha in Central Europe -
validating Poznań’s growing international rep as a prime party
city. Decked out in plush design and pumping out house
music for the masses, Pacha is a divorcee’s paradise and one
which is attracting big crowds looking to dance away those
working-week blues. Will its reputation be enough to pull in
the punters from Warsaw, Wrocław, and Berlin? Time will tell...
QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 10, tel. (+48) 519 30 02 60, www.
pachapoznan.com. Open Fri, Sat only 22:00-05:00. X
PROJEKT LAB
Inspired by the Berlin party scene - in fact, conceived as
a direct result of the to-be owners’ wild night at techno
club Berghain - Projekt LAB is an experimental space and
underground music venue that proved an immense hit as
soon as it opened doors in 2013. The music of choice here
is electronic and all sorts of alternative beats, often supplied
by international DJs and bands. Brave the long entry lines
and you’ll be rewarded with a true multimedia experience.
QI‑6, ul. Grochowe Łąki 5, tel. (+48) 731 47 71 02, www.
projektlab.pl/. Open Thu 22:00-04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00-
08:00 only. X­B
SQ
Closed until September. Dance with the fittest and the
hippest in SQ, by far the most envied dance space in town.
Silly haircuts and expensive wardrobes abound here, and
they’re here for the music not the design – DJs arrive from
all across Poland to play here, sometimes even further. The
interior isn’t all that, but the nights are legend, and you’ll
find no better place to puff the chest out and behave like
a big time Bertie.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42, tel. (+48) 663
78 65 47, www.sqklub.pl. Open Wed 22:00-04:00, Fri, Sat
22:00-06:00 only. X­E
Nightlife
DISCO POLO!
Fanatic band © Wikipedia/User: FxJ/CC BY-SA 3.0
No, it’s not an equestrian sport involving bell-bottomed
jockeys (good guess, though), Disco Polo is a rather
peculiar and uniquely Polish sub-genre of dance music.
In fact you may have already been exposed to it without
even realising it. It could have been blaring from a
suped-up Fiat Duze rolling by, pulsing from a radio in
a Żabka convenience store or been the soundtrack to
that local wedding you attended a few months back.
This cult genre first emerged in the early 90’s as folk
musicians and wedding bands finally were able to
upgrade their antiquated audio gear and buy some shiny
new keyboards with built in drum machines (and 70’s
disco presets). By mixing a little Italo Disco (read: Eurotrash
Techno) into their Casiotone folk-anthems, a music
revolution was born. Disco Polo quickly conquered every
wedding hall, village disco and nightclub throughout
the land. By 1995 there were Disco Polo programmes
on every major radio and television station and even
former Polish President Aleksander Kwaśniewski used a
Disco Polo song during his presidential campaign that
year. Times were good and Disco Polo labels like Blue
Star and ‘bands’ such as Bayer Full, Boys and Shazza were
pumping out the hits and rolling in the zlotties. But alas,
the good times couldn’t last forever.
Disco Polo was scoffed at from the very beginning by
the likes of intellectuals, music critics and professional
musicians who viewed it as hokey and primitive (which
it was/is). The tide began to turn for the genre as a whole
when a few scandals involving disco polo artists and local
mafia bosses started to make headlines in ‘96 and ‘97.
These scandals coincided with a huge drop in cassette
and CD sales. By the late 90’s the wedding party was
officially over and the long national hangover had begun.
Public opinion and the mainstream media quickly turned
and openly derided and lampooned the jovial genre.
Nowadays, the Disco Polo genre is about as respected
as Country & Western or Smooth Jazz. Nonetheless,
Disco Polo artists continue to break album sales records
and tour regularly despite being the butt of almost
every musical joke. The truth is, while it’s been officially
cool to make fun of Disco Polo for the better part of
a decade, it’s every red-blooded Pole’s guilty pleasure.
77
 Shopping
Pamiątki z Poznania (p.80).
Yes, that’s a Burberry store you see in Poznań. And Armani.
Even Versace. You can wander through the vast, award-
winning Stary Browar mall or the new Poznań City Centre
spending złoty until you’ve solved the European debt
crisis, but if you’re bringing gifts back to show your loved
ones what a trip to Poznań is like, a Burberry bag made in
London won’t cut it. That’s why we’ve made suggestions
below for where to get gifts for darling that actually say,
“I went to Poland.”  You’ll find more local gift ideas and
direct buying opportunities online in the Poland IYP Shop:
iyp.me/polandshop.
SUNDAY SHOPPING BAN
Shops have traditionally had more limited hours on
weekends, but since March 2018 new regulations that
will eventually ban Sunday trading in Poland entirely
have  gone into effect. Phased in gradually, in 2018
trade has been allowed on only the first and last
Sundays of each month,  forcing shops to close on
the intervening Sundays. Beginning in 2019, trade
will only be allowed on the last Sunday of each
month. There are only a few exemptions to the rule,
namely pharmacies, gas stations, kiosks, bakeries,
open-air markets and souvenir shops (oh thank god).
Note that the Sunday hours we list for venues are the
hours they keep only on those Sundays when trade is
allowed. The following is a list of Sundays when shops
are allowed to be open:
July 28 | Aug. 25 | Sept. 29 | Oct. 27
78
ALCOHOL
BASILIUM
A shop for serious beer lovers, Basilium stocks around 150
different types of the stuff, giving you a good chance to
take home a few quality local flavours with a bit more
character than the mass-produced brews found stocked in
supermarkets and local chain stores. The friendly staff are
more than happy to go through the choices with anyone
looking for advice before making their purchase.QI‑7, ul.
Woźna 21, tel. (+48) 790 33 37 56. Open 15:00-01:00; Fri
15:00-02:00; Sat 13:00-02:00; Sun 13:00-24:00.
AMBER & JEWELLERY
GALERIA YES
YES jewellery stores can be found throughout Poland,
but this location on ul. Paderewskiego sets itself apart by
being an exclusive gallery, curated by YES founder Magda
Kwiatkiewicz herself, showcasing the highest achievements
in artistic jewellery by Polish designers. As such, it has
played a significant role in the shape and direction of the
Polish jewellery market for over a decade, and in addition
to their lovely commercial display cases, the exhibits held
here are always worth a peek.QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 7,
tel. (+48) 61 851 58 48, www.galeriayes.pl. Open 11:00-
19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00; closed Sun.
FREY WILLE
Fine jewellery and fashion accessories inspired by masters
like Klimt and Mucha. Frey Wille boutique hails from Austria,
and what sets it apart from most places is that the items on
 Shopping
offer are handmade. The philosophy of the boutique is to
create works of art which are rooted in humanism; pieces
which are bourne  from an artistic love and passion, and
indeed, made by artists themselves. What’s more, much of
the jewellery undergoes an enamelling process, binding
fine glass onto metal, which revolutionised Frey Wille’s
works from 1981 onwards to offer the fine pieces you see
today. QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48)
61 667 13 94, www.frey-wille.com. Open 09:00-21:00;
Sun 10:00-20:00.

LILOU
Pendants, charms, and delicate chains abound in this
boutique-y jewellery shop staffed by immaculately-
attired ladies keen to assist and advise potential buyers.
Glamorous but not intimidating, this is the place to browse
miniature shiny trinkets during an afternoon shopping
break. Also located at the Posnania Shopping Centre
(ul. Pleszewska 1, 10:00-22:00 Mon-Sat, 10:00-21:00 on
‘shopping Sundays’.QH‑8, ul. Półwiejska 8/1-2, tel. (+48)
797 33 43 52, www.lilou.pl. Open 11:00-19:00; Sat, Sun
11:00-17:00.

ŚWIAT BURSZTYNU
Major amber retailer and wholesaler with over 25 years
of experience to their name - that’s a lot in a country that
only returned to a market economy in 1989. Now with
two locations, the second being the behemoth Posnania
Shopping Centre (p.82).QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary
Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 61 859 66 88/(+48)
607 07 07 33, www.desta-amber.com. Open 09:00-
21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00.

W. KRUK
Poland’s oldest and most revered chain of jewellery stores
caters to men and women with tastes that range from
classic amber pendants and Tag Heuer watches to modern
designs of their own making. Also at Stary  Browar  (ul.
Półwiejska 42, G-4), Posnania (ul. Pleszewska 1,  M-10),
and Galeria Malta  (ul. Maltańska 1, J-4).QH‑7, ul.
Paderewskiego 2, tel. (+48) 661 98 05 61, www.wkruk.
pl. Open 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00; closed Sun.

ART & ANTIQUES

ANTYKWARIAT
Solid collection of antiques collected by Piotr Sobisiak. On
offer is furniture, porcelain, silver cutlery, pitchers, jewellery
and other pre-war treasures.QG‑7, ul. Kantaka 10, tel.
(+48) 61 851 88 10, www.gem-art.pl. Open 10:00-18:00;
Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun.

ANTYKWARIAT NAUKOWY
A vintage bookseller that rewards those who are patient
enough to dig through boxes of old postcards, prints, and
telegrams. It’s easy to lose track of time while meandering
along the well-stocked shelves.QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego
3/5, tel. (+48) 61 852 63 12, www.antykwariat.pl. Open
10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun.
79
 Shopping
ANTYKWARIAT (ANTIQUE SHOP)
Specialises in old toys, technological relics, pre-war
postcards, and other special keepsakes.QI‑7, ul. Klasztorna
1, tel. (+48) 61 851 75 13. Open 11:00-18:00; Sat 11:00-
14:00; closed Sun.
BOOKS, MUSIC & FILM
EMPIK
This large store is a one-stop shop for foreign press and
magazines (prices are gougey though), guidebooks, there’s
a somewhat decent English-language book selection, CDs,
DVD, video games and more. Find them in almost any Polish
shopping mall. Also in Galeria Malta (M-9).QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska
42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 61 667 12 00,
www.empik.pl. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00.
VINYLGATE RECORDSTORE
Worth seeking out, this is Poznań’s best music store - full
of thousands of new and used vinyl records and CDs
covering all genres, but also with an emphasis on more
contemporary DJ-favoured sounds like techno, house,
electronica, drum’n’bass, breakbeat, etc. Inside you’ll also
find plenty of DJ and home stereo equipment, accessories
for taking care of records, music merch and other gear that
make the crew behind Vinylgate the leading ambassadors
for the city’s vinyl revival.QF‑7, ul. Garncarska 3, tel. (+48)
501 72 77 97, www.vinylgate.eu. Open 13:00-19:00; Sat
12:00-16:00; closed Mon, Sun.
FASHION & ACCESSORIES
KARTELL FLAGSTORE
Combining creativity and functionality since 1949, this
Milanese design company known for colorful plastic
creations has spawned flagstores all over Europe, including
our charming little city.QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 8, tel.
(+48) 664 99 40 76, www.kartellshop.pl. Open 11:00-
19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00; closed Sun.
MOLIERA 2 BAZAR POZNAŃSKI
Located in the gorgeously renovated Bazar Hotel, this luxury
fashion boutique features women’s clothing, shoes, and
accessories from top designer brands like Casadei, Christian
Louboutin, Gianvito Rossi, Kenzo, Burberry, Moncler,
Manolo Blahnic, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Aquazzura,
Balmain, Isabel Marant, Alexander McQueen, Beach Bunny,
Self Portrait, Mystique, Maison Michel, Herve Leger, and
Zimmermann. Shop online to find even more swag and
savings.QH‑7, Al. Marcinkowskiego 10, tel. (+48) 61 855
19 54, www.Moliera2.com. Open 11:00-19:00.
RABARBAR
Inspired by traditional Polish handicraft and designs,
Rhubarb is now a country-wide chain selling modern
women’s clothing with elements of embroidery and folksy
patterns.QC‑6, ul. Kraszewskiego 17, tel. (+48) 885 55 22
85, www.rabarbar.com.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-
14:00; closed Sun.
80
GIFTS & SOUVENIRS
CEPELIA
A leading chain of souvenir shops selling native arts and
handicrafts.QI‑7, ul. Klasztorna 21, tel. (+48) 61 852 58
14, www.cepelia.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-14:00;
closed Sun.
CITY INFORMATION CENTRE
A wide selection of souvenirs connected with Poznań
including lots of stuff with the most popular symbols of
Poznań. Pick up t-shirts, cups, ornaments, post cards, and
the like all associated with the head-banging goats, for
instance. You’ll also find tickets and event information,
plus  the most popular selection of books and albums
relating to Poznań, Wielkopolska, and Poland in foreign
languages.QG‑7, ul. Ratajczaka 44, tel. (+48) 61 854 07
54, www.cik.poznan.pl. Open 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-
17:00; closed Sun.
HANDMADE
For souvenirs which are both authentic and actually useful,
hand-painted pottery is the way to go; easily recognisable
across Poland, these beauties from the Bolesławiec Pottery
Factory have a trademark look and a tradition dating back
to the 14th century. We recommend skipping the tacky
tourist kitsch and considering Handmade your one-stop-
shop for gifts to bring back home. Whisper “IYP” to the
cashier for a special 5% discount.QF‑7, ul. Mielżyńskiego
16, tel. (+48) 61 284 17 04. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-
15:00; closed Sun.
PAMIĄTKI Z POZNANIA
Souvenirs galore - magnets, t-shirts, postcards (oh the
nostalgia), handicrafts, mugs, and wonderful Bolesławiec
ceramics should take care of your most pressing souvenir
needs.QH‑8, ul. Wrocławska 25A, tel. (+48) 517 59
41 38. Open 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-
16:00.
SHOPPING MALLS
AVENIDA POZNAŃ
Shopping ‘centres’ simply don’t get any more ‘central’
than this modern marvel located right next to Poznań’s
impressive new train station (lovingly dubbed ‘the
breadbox’); as such, it couldn’t possibly be better
connected to public transport or easier to get to and
from. Featuring over 200 retail spaces, including Media
Markt, H&M, TK Maxx, Empik, and Peek & Cloppenburg,
Avenida Pozań  also offers plenty of cafes, restaurants,
and fast food eateries, as well as a multi-level parking
garage (parking up to 3h is free of charge). Opened
in October 2013, if nothing else this mega-complex
is worth checking out just to appreciate how much
Poznań has developed and progressed over the last
several years. QE‑9, ul. Stanisława Matyi 2, tel. (+48)
61 627 01 90, www.avenidapoznan.com. Open 09:00-
21:00; Sun 09:00-20:00.
 Shopping

Boutique - Atelier
Symbols of precious moments

Lilou is an upscale polish jewelry

brand created by
Magdalena Mousson-Lestang.
Lilou’s philosophy is to create
unique, engraved j e w e l r y ,
customized and customizable
to mark events, small and big
stories of your life, emotions
or simply to please or be
pleased. Real caskets in terms
of architecture, Lilou Boutique
- Atelier are warm and inviting
stores where engraving is hand-
made on demand.
Lilou jewelry is made of 14k
gold, 925 silver or 23 k. plated-
gold, and can be accessorized
with strings, ribbons, leather
bracelets and precious stones,
crystals and pearls.
Mark stories of your life by
creating unique, engraved jewelry.

POZNAŃ, Półwiejska 8/1-2 Street

POSNANIA SHOPPING & LIFESTYLE, 1 Pleszewska Street
lilouparis.com
/bemylilou /bemylilou 81
 Shopping
MARKETS
Poznań’s open-air markets are the best places to get
cheap local produce and some of the only places in the
centre where you can buy vegetables that aren’t white
or in jars. Add to that meats, cheeses, spices, baked
goods, doorknobs, dog leashes, pagers, potholders
and literally anything else you can think of and you’ve
got yourself a nifty cultural experience as well. Practise
your “Proszę” and point skills at any of the unique
shopping environments listed below, and remember
that haggling and attempting to pay with large bills
will both be met with disdain.
JEŻYCE MARKET
One of Poznań’s most historic and centrally located
markets is just west of the Old Town on historic Rynek
Jeżycki. Established in 1891, this was once one of the
city’s finest market squares, as evidenced by the faded
glory of some of the intricate Art Nouveau facades on
the tenement buildings that surround it. Lately the
area has been going through a bit of a resurgence, and
though the market itself may be a bit tatty and you can
hardly expect English to be spoken or understood, the
400 merchant stalls here are still a good place to pick
up fresh fruit and vegetables, as well as peruse clothing
and other random goods you might be wiser not to
take home. You certainly won’t beat the prices.QC‑6,
Rynek Jeżycki, www.targowiska.com.pl. Open
06:00-20:00; closed Sun.
WIELKOPOLSKA MARKET
With Poznań’s historic main market square apparently
not big enough, fruit and veg merchants have been
relegated to this 1600 square metre plaza only a few
minutes walk away. Renovated and generally more
orderly than some of Poz’s other open-air markets,
this is the best place for fresh produce in the Old
Town. Among its 200 tent-covered stalls you’ll also
find copious amounts of meat, cheese, nuts, and
other food products, fresh-cut flowers, pots and pans,
socks and sweatpants, sweets, screws, staplers, toilet
scrubbers, and whatever else you can imagine.QH‑6,
Pl. Wielkopolski, www.targowiska.com.pl. Open
06:00-20:00; closed Sun.
82
FACTORY POZNAŃ
This outlet centre, one of just a few establishments
of this type in Europe, is preoccupied with fashion,
offering top brand names at 30-70% discounts over
other shopping malls. Recognisable names among
the brands include Puma, Calzedonia, Desigual, Gino
Rossi, 4F, Nike, Timberland,  Guess, and more. To get
here, take tram number 2 or 9 from ‘Pl. Wiosny Ludów’
(on ul. Strzelecka, H-8) to the terminus at ‘Dębiec’,
then change to bus 610, getting off at ‘Luboń / Factory
Outlet’ - or let jakdojade.pl figure out the optimal route
for you.Qul. Dębiecka 1, Luboń, tel. (+48) 61 652 30
30, www.factory.pl. Open 10:00-21:00; Sat 09:00-
21:00; Sun 09:00-20:00.
GALERIA MALTA
Located right next to Poznań’s Lake Malta, Galeria
Malta is the largest retail and entertainment centre
in western Poland with over 162,000 square metres of
shopping and leisure opportunities. Opened in March
2009, Malta features a Multikino as well as an H&M,
TK Maxx, Tatuum, Pako Lorente, Guess, and Empik.
Dining opportunities include Salad&Co and Costa
Coffee. Trams 16, 17, and 18 all stop nearby (at either
“Kórnicka” or “Baraniaka”).QN‑9, ul. Maltańska 1, tel.
(+48) 61 658 10 22, www.galeriamalta.pl. Open
10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00.
GALERIA MM
A shopping mall right in the city centre for all your
shopping needs, be it clothes, a tall caramel frappuccino,
make-up, or the sudden urge to go bowling. The
location just can’t be beat - a five minute walk away from
the Main Square, the Galeria MM is named after the two
streets that intersect at its address, ul. Święty Marcin
and Aleje Marcinkowskiego. Behind the eye-popping
love-it-or-hate-it facade you’ll find around fifty popular
stores.QG‑8, ul. Św. Marcin 24, tel. (+48) 61 855 22
94, www.galeriamm.poznan.pl. Open 09:00-21:00;
Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-19:00.
POSNANIA
Poznań’s new shopping behemoth swung its doors
open in late 2016 in a style so lavish, even Eva Longoria
couldn’t keep away (yes, it’s not everyday that random
Polish shopping malls manage to invite A-list celebrities).
Inspired perhaps by the celebrated Stary Browar
shopping complex, which manages to seamlessly blend
retail space with creative contemporary art, Posnania
collaborates with Pop-up Galerie 208 to integrate
unique sculptures and installations into its layout. The
most eye-catching of those is David Mesguich’s Lucie,
the sculpture of a little girl symbolising the future,
located outside near the main entrance. Oh, and the
shopping? They’ve got brands like Forever 21, Guess,
MAC, Sephora, Steve Madden, Pinko, and many more.
QM‑10, ul. Pleszewska 1, tel. (+48) 61 628 65 27,
www.posnania.eu. Open 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-
21:00.
Shopping

83
 Health & Services
24-HOUR SHOPS
LEWIATANQG‑8, ul. Św. Marcin 28, www.lewiatan.pl.

LOTOSQL‑7, ul. Jana Pawła II 2, tel. (+48) 519 07 56 26.

24-HOUR POST OFFICE

POCZTA POLSKAQD‑9, ul. Głogowska 17, tel. (+48)
61 869 72 67, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 24 hours.

COMPUTER REPAIR
DOCTOR GADGET
Computer, tablet, and smartphone repairs, chargers and
powerbanks for sale.QF‑8, ul. Kościuszki 72/5B, tel. (+48)
690 98 30 33, www.doctorgadget.pl. Open 11:00-18:00;
closed Sat, Sun.

NN SERWIS
Laptop and tablet repairs.QG‑8, ul. Św. Marcin 28, tel.
(+48) 602 39 67 16, www.nnserwis.pl. Open 08:00-18:00;
Mon, Wed 08:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun.

CONSULATES & EMBASSIES

AMERICAN CONSULATE IN POZNAŃ
QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 8, tel. (+48) 61 851 85 16,
www.pl.usembassy.gov.

AUSTRIAN HONORARY CONSULATE IN POZNAŃ

EMERGENCY QF‑7, ul. Aleksandra Fredry 1/18, tel. (+48) 61 855 19
91, www.konsulataustrii.pl.
In the case of an emergency, mobile phone users
should dial 112 to be forwarded to the police, fire RUSSIAN CONSULATE IN POZNAŃ
department or ER. From a landline or public phone dial Qul. Bukowska 53A, tel. (+48) 61 841 77 40, www.
the following: Ambulance: 999; Fire: 998; Police: 997. poznan.mid.ru.
English, German and Russian speakers have separate
lines specifically designed for foreigners in distress:
+48 608 599 999  (mobile) or +48 22 278 77 77 DENTISTS
(landline). CHILLIDENT
Root canal​treatment, microscopic endodontics, dental
For urgent medical emergencies, use the listings prosthetics, pedodontics, aesthetic dentistry, and other
below. The emergency room in PL is called SOR and
should only be visited when absolutely necessary. In
less urgent crises we recommend you visit a private
clinic, where you’ll get better service and avoid the
notoriously long queues in Polish hospitals.

HCP MEDICAL CENTRE (EMERGENCY ROOM)

Poznań’s most central Emergency Room (SOR),
located south of the train station in Wilda.Qul. 28
Czerwca 1956 r. 194 (Wilda), tel. (+48) 61 227 41 81,
mat
Laundro
www.cmhcp.pl.

JÓZEF STRUS MUNICIPAL HOSPITAL

Qul. Szwajcarska 3 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 873 Dabrowskiego 69
93 46, www.szpital-szwajcarska.poznan.pl. Phone +48 722 027 622

84
 Health & Services
services. English spoken.QG‑7, Pl. Wolności 9/1, tel. (+48)
61 852 27 55, www.chillident.com. Open 09:00-20:00;
closed Sat, Sun.

DENTOPOLIS
Dental surgeon with 30 years of experience. English and
Spanish is spoken here.QA‑11, ul. Morawskiego 2D, tel.
(+48) 503 19 03 37, www.dentopolis-poznan.pl. Open
10:00-20:00; closed Sat, Sun.

LAUNDRY
SPEED QUEEN LAUDROMAT NEW
This self-service launderette offers five washing machines
(small ones 20zł/load, large ones 30zł/load) and several
tumble-dryers (7zł for 15 minutes). Cash and contactless
credit cards are both accepted. Easy and efficient.QC‑5/6,
ul. Dąbrowskiego 69, tel. (+48) 722 02 76 22. Open
07:00-22:00.

PRIVATE CLINICS
LUXMED
A private medical centre just west of the Old Town.
QE‑7, ul. Roosevelta 18, tel. (+48) 22 332 28 88,
www.luxmed.pl. Open 07:00-20:00; Sat 08:00-14:00;
closed Sun.

RELOCATION COMPANIES
LESS MESS STORAGE
Self-storage is a relatively new concept in Poland, but
this firm has figured out how to deliver a versatile and
professional service. Whether you’re moving, doing a
renovation to part of your home, or need to a place to
store a private collection or business materials, you can
use your space however you wish. Spaces range in size
from 0.5 to 30 square metres and can be rented short or
long-term. Each space is equipped with an alarm, and
can be accessed 24-hours a day via a code that only you
know.Qul. Ostrowska 515, tel. (+48) 61 639 78 98,
www.lessmess.storage.

SPA & BEAUTY

THAI SMILE MASSAGE
Anyone looking to escape the raucous buzz of Poz’s city
centre could do a lot worse than relaxing with a fine
massage. A peaceful, modern environment (with English
speaking staff ) only five minutes from the market square,
Thai Smile Massage is an ideal place to forget about
the day’s woes while you let one of the authentic Thai
massage therapists work their wonders. Two rooms to
choose from (massage room and the oil room) and a
cup of tea afterwards is enough for the IYP staff to give
this place the thumbs up.QG‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 17/4, tel.
(+48) 727 90 52 96, www.thai-smile.pl. Open 12:00-
22:00.

85
 Hotels
Sleep in Hostel & Apartments (p.88)
Visitors to Poznań will be pleasantly surprised to find that
the city is home to some of the most impressive hotel
properties in the country. While Poznań’s role as Poland’s
epicentre for conferences and fairs has clearly benefited
those who like plush accommodations and modern
conveniences to come standard, on the flip side those
major conferences can cause prices to shoot up when
space is in demand (rates tend to double during the annual
MTP, Polagra, Budma and Infosystem fairs). Fortunately
most hotels compensate by offering impressive weekend
discounts to encourage travellers to stick around and
explore the city. With the increasing irrelevance of official
rack rates these days due to these special offers, online
booking discounts and other price variations, we no longer
find it particularly instructive to list room prices in our
guide, as we once did.
On our website - iyp.me/poznan - you’ll find full reviews,
photos and reader comments, on all of the hostels and
hotels listed in our print guide, plus dozens of other
accommodation options in the region; unfortunately,
space constraints no longer allow us to print these reviews.
Accommodation is categorised here subjectively based
on a combination of lodging type, location, price and
amenities. The venues listed here also serve as distribution
points for our print guide, which can be picked up for free
at the reception desks of the addresses listed. Sleep well.
86
CREAM OF THE CROP
BLOW UP HALL 5050QG‑9, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel.
(+48) 500 16 16 71, www.blowuphall5050.com. 22 Total
rooms. P­U­B­K­H­D hhhhh
CITY PARK HOTEL & RESIDENCEQA‑9, ul.
Wyspiańskiego 26A, tel. (+48) 61 221 84 00, www.
cityparkhotel.pl. 88  Total rooms. P­U­6­K­H­C­
D­F hhhhh
IBB ANDERSIA HOTELQG‑9, Pl. Andersa 3, tel. (+48)
61 667 80 00, www.andersiahotel.pl. 172 Total rooms.
P­U­L­6­K­H­C­D­F­w hhhh
ILONNQul. Szarych Szeregów 16 (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61
668 75 75, www.ilonnhotel.pl. 77 rooms (1 apartment).
U­L­6­K­H­D­F hhhh
NH POZNAŃ
QF‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 67, tel. (+48) 61 624 88 00, www.
nh-hotels.com. 93 Total rooms. P­U­L­6­K­H­D­
F­w hhhh
SHERATON POZNAN HOTEL
QD‑7, ul. Bukowska 3/9, tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www.
sheratonpoznan.pl. 180 rooms (13 apartments). P­U­
L­6­K­H­C­D­F hhhhh
 Hotels
SYMBOL KEY
P Air conditioning H Conference facilities

F Fitness centre U Facilities for the disabled

K Restaurant L Guarded parking on site

D Sauna X Smoking rooms available

w Wellness C Swimming pool

6 Animal friendly C‑1 Map Coordinate

UPMARKET
BROVARIAQH‑7, Stary Rynek 73-74, tel. (+48) 61 858
68 68, www.brovaria.pl. 21 Total rooms. P­K hhh
DON PRESTIGEQH‑8, ul. Św. Marcin 2, tel. (+48) 61
859 05 90, www.donprestige.com. 73  Total rooms.
P­L­6­H­F
HOTEL DESILVA PREMIUM POZNAŃ
QG/H‑8, ul. Piekary 5, tel. (+48) 61 658 80 00, www.
desilva.pl. 60 Total rooms. P­U­L­K­H­F hhhh
HOTEL KOLEGIACKIQI‑7, Pl. Kolegiacki 5, tel. (+48)
61 855 05 05, www.hotelkolegiacki.pl. 24 Total rooms.
P­U­B­K­H hhhh
HOTEL MODERNOQC‑12, ul. Kolejowa 29, tel.
(+48) 61 664 66 66, www.hotelmoderno.pl. 88  rooms
(1 apartment). P­U­L­K­H­D­F hhhh
HP PARKQP‑9, ul. Baraniaka 77, tel. (+48) 61 874
11 00, www.hotelepark.pl. 97  rooms (1  apartment).
P­U­6­K­H­Y hhh
MAT’SQul. Bułgarska 115 (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61
868 78 31, www.hotelmats.pl. 35 rooms (2 apartments).
U­6­K­H­D hhh
MERCURE POZNAŃ CENTRUMQD‑7, ul. Roosevelta
20, tel. (+48) 61 855 80 00, www.mercure-poznan-
centrum.com. 228 rooms (1 apartment). P­U­L­6­
K­H­D­F­Y hhhh
NOVOTEL & IBIS POZNAŃ CENTRUM
QG‑9, Pl. Andersa 1, tel. (+48) 61 858 70 00, www.
accorhotels.com. 516 rooms (3 apartments). P­U­L­
6­K­H­F­Y hhhh
NOVOTEL POZNAŃ MALTAQP‑7, ul. Termalna 5, tel.
(+48) 61 654 31 00, www.accorhotels.com. 149  Total
rooms. U­L­6­K­H­C­F­hhh
PLATINUM PALACE RESIDENCEQul. Reymonta
19 (entrance from ul. Wyspiańskiego) (Grunwald), tel.
(+48) 61 882 39 40, www.platinumpalace.pl. 39 Total
rooms. P­6­K­H hhhh
ROYALQF‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 71, tel. (+48) 61 858 23 00,
www.hotel-royal.com.pl. 35 Total rooms. L­H hhh
87
 Hotels
MID-RANGE
CAMPANILEQul. Św. Wawrzyńca 96, tel. (+48) 61 845
66 00, www.campanile.com. 80 rooms (4 apartments).
P­U­6­K­H hh
GARDEN BOUTIQUE RESIDENCE
QI‑7, ul. Wroniecka 24, tel. (+48) 61 222 29 99, www.
gardenhotel.pl. 14 rooms (1 apartment). P­L
HOTEL KSIĘCIA JÓZEFAQul. Ostrowska 391/393
(Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 872 63 19, www.hotelkj.pl.
35 rooms (1 apartment). P­K­H hhh
HOTEL POZNAŃSKI
Qul. Krańcowa 4, Luboń, tel. (+48) 61 649 99 88, www.
hotelpoznanski.pl. 105 Total rooms. U­L­K­H hhh
HOTEL ŚRÓDKA
QL‑6, ul. Śródka 6, tel. (+48) 61 222 00 07, www.hotel-
srodka.pl. 25 rooms (7 apartments). U­L­H hhh
HOTEL SYSTEM POZNAŃQul. Lechicka 101 (Stare
Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 821 07 00, www.lechickasystem.pl.
108 rooms (7 apartments). P­L­6­K­H­C­D hhh
IBISQJ‑9, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 23, tel. (+48) 61 858
44 00, www.accorhotels.com. 146 Total rooms. P­U­
L­6­K­H hh
REZYDENCJA SOLEI B&B
QI‑7, ul. Szewska 2, tel. (+48) 510 11 01 30, www.hotel-
solei.pl. 10 rooms (1 apartment). P
STARE MIASTOQH‑8, ul. Rybaki 36, tel. (+48)
61 659 00 43, www.hotelstaremiasto.pl. 23  rooms
(1 apartment). P­L­H hhh
OUT OF TOWN
GREEN HOTELQul. Jeziorna 1A, Komorniki, tel.
(+48) 61 810 80 75, www.greenhotel.pl. 44  rooms
(4 apartments). P­U­L­6­K­H­D hhh
BUDGET
GOLDQul. Bukowska 127A (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 842
07 74, www.goldhotel.pl. 12  rooms (1  apartment).
6­H hh
HOTEL RAMKAQul. Dąbrowskiego 474 (entrance
from ul. Wejherowska 10, Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 849 94
99, www.hotelramka.pl. 27  Total rooms. P­L­K­H
hhh
APARTMENTS
APARTAMENTY VELVETQC‑9, ul. Śniadeckich 7, tel.
(+48) 606 88 88 00, www.evelvet.pl. 20 apartments.
88
CAPITAL APARTMENTSQH‑8, ul. Piekary 16, tel.
(+48) 61 852 53 00, www.capitalapart.pl. 36 apartments.
CLASSICO APARTMENTS
QD‑6, ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. (+48) 728 41 48 27, www.
classico-apartamenty.com. 28 apartments. T­6­K­H
PLATINUM PALACE APARTMENTS
QG‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 17, tel. (+48) 61 671 05 66, www.
apartamenty.platinumpalace.pl. 27 apartments. 6
POMARAŃCZARNIA
QH‑9, ul. Rybaki 12, tel. (+48) 515 37 73 20, www.
apartamenty-pomaranczarnia.pl. 44 apartments. 6
HOSTELS
EXPLORER HOSTELQI‑8, ul. Wszystkich Świętych
6, tel. (+48) 600 96 55 55, www.explorer-hostel.pl.
22  rooms (22  singles, 12  doubles, 6  triples, 3  quads).
L­K
FUSION HOSTELQF‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 66/72, tel. (+48)
61 852 12 30. 17 rooms (6 doubles, 4 triples, 3 quads,
3  six-person room, 1  seven-person room, 61  dorm
beds). U
LA GUITARRAQG‑7, ul. Marcinkowskiego 20A,
tel. (+48) 61 852 20 74, www.lagitarra.com/poznan.
22 rooms (8 singles, 6 doubles, 12 quads, 1 eight-person
room, 66 dorm beds). L­6
MELODY
QH‑7, Stary Rynek 67 (entrance from ul. Kozia 16), tel.
(+48) 61 851 60 60, www.melody-hostel.pl. 16  rooms
(2  singles, 11  doubles, 1  quad, 48  dorm beds, 1  six-
person room, 2 eight-person room).
POCO LOCO HOSTELQG‑8, ul. Taczaka 23, tel.
(+48) 796 23 05 55, www.hostel.poco-loco.pl. 9 rooms
(2 doubles, 3 quads, 50 dorm beds). 6­W
ROSEMARY’S HOSTEL
QI‑7, ul. Wrocławska 13, tel. (+48) 61 855 27 61.
12 rooms (12 singles, 11 doubles, 1 triple).
SLEEP IN HOSTEL & APARTMENTS
QH‑7, Stary Rynek 77, tel. (+48) 61 639 40 04, www.
sleepinhostel.pl. 26 rooms (7 apartments). 6
SODA HOSTEL & APARTMENTSQD‑6, ul. gen. Jana
Henryka Dąbrowskiego 27A, tel. (+48) 793 27 27 20,
www.sodahostel.com. 22  rooms (6  singles, 5  doubles,
3 quads, 8 suites, 52 dorm beds). P
VERY BERRY HOSTELQH‑7, Al. Marcinkowskiego
11/17, tel. (+48) 61 855 17 63, www.very-berry.pl.
24  rooms (6  singles, 10  doubles, 5  triples, 4  quads,
60 dorm beds). 6
 Index
239 53 Chłopskie Jadło 64 Galeria Malta 82 Inna Piekarnia 52
1956 Uprising Museum 47 CHMIELNIK 72 Galeria MM 82 ISTNY wine tapas beer 73
#Hashtag 73 Chocolate Museum 8 Galeria YES 78 Jeżyce Market 82
Adrenaline Alpine Coaster 45 Church of the Virgin Mary 40 Garden Boutique Residence88 John of Nepomuk Monument
Antykwariat 79, 80 City Event Poznań 25 Genius Loci Archeological Park  28
Antykwariat Naukowy 79 City Fortifications 34  40 Kartell Flagstore 80
Apartamenty Velvet 88 City Guide Poznań 25 Giovanni Volpe 7 Kawiarnia Stragan 52
Applied Arts Museum 47 City Information Centre 80 Gold 88 KontenerART 50
Archaeological Museum 47 City Park Hotel & Residence 86 Green Hotel 88 KulTour.pl 25
Archdiocese Museum 40, 47 Classico Apartments 88 Guardhouse 30 Kyokai Sushi Bar 63
Arsenał City Gallery 28 Concordia Taste 59 Handmade 80 La Guitarra 88
Avenida Poznań 80 Cooliozum 72 Hatti 58 Lake Malta Carousel 45
Bajgle Króla Jana 53 Cuba Libre 76 Headless Figures 43 Lavenda Gastro & Cafe 60
Bamber Monument 30 Czarna Owca 77 Hola Hola 73 Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus
Bar Susznia 69 Czekolada 77 Hotel DeSilva Premium  33
Basilium 69, 78 Dark Restaurant 58 Poznań 87 Lilou 79
Bazar 1838 64 DOMU Kitchen & Friends 59 Hotel Kolegiacki 87 Literary Museum of Henryk
Bierhalle 58 Don Prestige 87 Hotel Księcia Józefa 88 Sienkiewicz 48
Bistro Tancereczka 69 Dram Whisky Explorers Bar 72 Hotel Moderno 87 Lodovnia 7
Blow Up Hall 5050 59, 86 Empik 80 Hotel Poznański 88 Lody Chwaliszewo 7
Blubry6D 8 Explorer Hostel 88 Hotel Ramka 88 Lodziarnia Kolorowa 7
Blue Note Jazz Club 73 FACTORY Poznań 82 Hotel Śródka 88 Maltanka Mini Railway 45
British Military Cemetery 43 Falla 67 Hotel System Poznań 88 Malta Ski Mini Golf 45
Brovaria 59, 72, 87 FermentuJEMY 60 HP Park 87 Malta Ski Outdoor Playground
Budnicy Houses 28 Figaro 62 Hyćka 64  45
Cafe La Ruina i Raj 52, 57 Forno Italia 62 IBB Andersia Hotel 86 Malta Ski Pontoon Hire 45
Campanile 88 Fort Colomb 73 Ibis 88 Maltese Baths 46
Capital Apartments 88 Franciscan Church 36 Ilonn 86 Mat's 87
Casa de Vinos 72 Frey Wille 78 Imperial Castle 37 Melody 88
Cepelia 80 Fusion Hostel 88 Indian Steak 57 Mercure Poznań Centrum 87

DJing at Perygród (p.50).  Photo by Artur Nowicki

89
 Index
The New Zoo 8, 46
The Old Zoo 8
The Time 61
Toboggan Run Pepsi 45
Tourist Information Centre 25
Twelve Cocktails & Co. 75
Ułan Browar 76
ul. Żydowska 33
Umberto 76
Uno 53
Very Berry Hostel 88
Vinylgate Recordstore 80
VisitPoznań 25
Weranda Lunch & Wine 62
Whiskey in the Jar 76
Whisky Bar 88 76
Why Thai Food & Wine 66
Evening crowds at the Social Night Market (p.50). Photo by Artur Nowicki Wiejskie Jadło 66
Wielkopolska Market 82
Miejscówka 73 Poco Loco Hostel 88 Social Night Market 50 Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum
Minister CAFE 52 Pomarańczarnia 88 Soda Hostel & Apartments 88  49
Ministerstwo Browaru 74 Porta Posnania Interactive SomePlace Else 57, 75 Wielkopolska Military Museum
Models of Poznań 48 Heritage Centre of Cathedral SPOT. 61  28
Moliera 2 Bazar Poznański 80 Island 38, 48 SQ 77 Wielkopolska Uprising
Monument to the Heroes of Posnania 82 Stare Miasto 88 Museum 30, 49
the Poznań Citadel 43 Poznań Army Museum 42 Stary Browar 35 Wino na Kieliszki 72
Mówish Mash 52 Poznań Bamber Museum 48 Steak & Grill Restaurant 61 Wiśniewski 76
Municipal Scales Building 30 Poznań Cathedral 39 Świat Bursztynu 79 W. Kruk 79
Museum of Armaments 43, 48 Poznań Croissant Museum 8, Taczaka 20 53 Wypas 67
Nastawnia PoC 74 48 Thai Smile Massage 85 Yetztu 63
National Museum 48 Poznań Nightingales Neon 36 Thai Thai 66 Zindo Sushi Korean-Japanese
Na Winklu 64 Poznań Stadium 49 The Bell of Peace and Restaurant 63
New Synagogue 34 Pranger 27 Friendship Among Nations 43
NH Poznań 86 PRL PUB 75
Novotel & Ibis Projekt Kuchnia 60
Poznań Centrum 87 Projekt LAB 77 FEATURES & CATEGORIES
Novotel Poznań Malta 87 Proletaryat 75
Oberża Pod Dzwonkiem 65 Przystań Na Chwilę 51 Alphas 34
Od:zysk 29 Pyrland Park 8 Beer Gardens 76
Okrąglak 37 Rabarbar 80 Breakfast 53
Old Town Hall 27 Ramen-Ya 63
Disco POLO! 77
Oskoma 65 Ratuszova 65
Emergency 84
Pacha 77 Restauracja Bamberka 65
Pączuś i Kawusia 53 Restauracja Momo 66 Lake Rusałka 46
Pamiątki z Poznania 80 Restauracja MUGA 61 Markets 82
Papavero 60 Restauracja Nadzieja 67 Mythological Fountains 28
Perygród 50 Rezydencja Solei B&B 88 Neon Art 36
PETIT PARIS Boulangerie 53 Rose Garden 43 Polish Vodka 74
PHOBAR 58 Rosemary's Hostel 88 Poznań Stadium 49
Pies Andaluzyjski 73 Royal 87
Poznań Street Art 29
Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa 74 Royal Castle 35
Śródka 40
Piwna Stopa 74 Różove 53
Plac Wolności 36, 37 Rynek 66 Sunday Shopping Ban 78
Platinum Palace Apartments Sheraton Poznan Hotel 86 The Maluch 18
 88 Sleep In Hostel & Apartments Tipping Tribulations 60
Platinum Palace Residence 87  88 Useful Transport Apps 19

90
 LET’S MEET IN
BROVARIA
The only
place like it
in Poznań

A business lunch, a family dinner,

a date or a beer with friends...
Original dishes from European
cuisine and unique beer brewed
in our own brewery help create
a unique atmosphere for every
occasion.

Stary Rynek 73-74, 61-772 Poznań, tel. +48 61 858 68 68, +48 61 858 68 78 • www.brovaria.pl