Solving Overheating

By: Henry P. Olsen

You have a hot-rod that is running too hot. You have replaced the
radiator, the water pump and put in a high flow cooling fan but it is still
running too hot. What do you do next? The engine burns gasoline to
create power; about 25% of the energy from the gasoline is converted
into power and the rest is converted into waste heat that goes into
exhaust or the cooling system. When a vehicle has an overheating
problem and everything in the cooling system is new, perhaps the
problem is not the cooling system; maybe the engine is creating too
much heat due to an incorrect air/fuel mixture and/or an incorrect
amount of ignition advance.

Depending on the temperature and speed of the air flowing through the
radiator, the radiator should remove about 25 to 50 degrees of heat
from the coolant. One way of checking to be sure the radiator is doing
its job is to use an infrared heat gun to measure both the inlet and
outlet radiator water temperature. If the radiator is not cooling enough,
first be sure that the airflow through the radiator is adequate; try
driving the car without a hood. If this helps, maybe the air can’t get
out of the engine compartment once it is blown through the radiator.
Some cars we have seen have a lot of air getting around the radiator
through air gaps that may allow the air to bypass it. These air gaps
should be sealed so the cooling fan can do its job and all the air being
forced through the radiator at highway speeds will go through it.

The speed of the coolant flow must also be correct. If the coolant flow
is too fast, it may not cool as well as it should. A thermostat or flow
restrictor is always recommended to properly regulate coolant speed
through the cooling system. Always use distilled or deionized water;
tap water contains minerals that can cause corrosion in the cooling
system. Do not mix coolant types; the green and orange coolants may
not mix properly, and mixing them may cause the coolant to lose all of
its anti-corrosion properties. The water wetters can help cool an engine
because of their ability to prevent air bubbles in the coolant. We often
recommend that a customer put a piece of a zinc tab (available at any
boat shop) in the radiator to be used as a sacrificial anode; they give
any minerals in the coolant something to attack rather than corroding
the radiator or engine block.

It is very important to have the air/fuel mixture correct as well as the

correct vacuum and mechanical advance curves for all the engine load
conditions. Correct ignition timing will cause the engine to have
maximum cylinder pressure at about 12 degrees after top dead center;
the optimum ignition spark timing will vary by engine speed, load and
air/fuel mixture. If the spark occurs too soon, the engine will fight
against the pressure in the cylinder creating extra heat and possibly
cause a pinging problem that may do engine damage. If the spark
occurs too late, the maximum cylinder pressure will occur too late, thus
not converting the gasoline energy into power, but wasting it as heat
that the cooling system must get rid of. If the ignition timing is
incorrect, not only will the engine run too hot but it won’t have the
power it should. An incorrect air/fuel mixture can also cause an
overheating problem; a lean air/fuel mixture will cause an engine to
create more heat than a rich air/fuel mixture.

An example where the reason for the overheating was not the cooling
system but the “tune-up” is a 1947 Cadillac with a 500 cubic inch
Cadillac engine that belongs to a local car collector; after everything in
the cooling system had been changed, the car was brought to us to see
if we could help. The first problem we found was the amount of
mechanical advance; it was less than half of what it should have been.
Also the vacuum advance was bad, thus not supplying the correct
amount of advance. After repairing the distributor, we then checked
the jetting; the idle mixture was very lean and could not be adjusted
any richer. Next we checked the cruise mixture, which was also too
lean. After modifying the idle and off idle systems to provide more fuel
and increasing the main jets by two sizes, we had the correct air/fuel
mixture; after a test drive, the customer said not only had the
overheating problem gone away but the car had never run so good.

Ignition Timing & Advance

Correct ignition timing involves more than just setting the initial
timing; the amount and rate of mechanical advance, as well as the
amount and rate of vacuum advance, is very important in order to
avoid overheating. Any distributor, original or performance
replacement should have the mechanical and vacuum advance checked
to insure proper operation. The advance curves in many cases may not
be optimum for today’s fuels and the engine combo being used in your
vehicle. Many performance replacement distributors come with a very
slow advance curve installed and an assortment of bushings and
springs to allow you to obtain the advance curve you desire. If you do
not set the curve in the distributor, the engine will not run up to its
potential. If you are running an OEM (original equipment) distributor
that has been rebuilt by a “factory”, there is no knowing what vacuum
and mechanical advance curves have been used. The mechanical
advance could be too slow or too fast and have too little or too much
advance, while the vacuum advance may have too much advance at
too low of a vacuum.

Checking the Distributor Timing Advance

The best way to check both the vacuum and mechanical advance
curves of a distributor is on a distributor test stand, but not everyone
has a distributor test stand in his or her garage. Please note: any rpm
or advance readings given by a distributor test stand are doubled since
the distributor turns at ½ of engine speed; a reading of 12 degrees
advance @ 1750 distributor rpm = 24 engine degrees @ 3500 engine
rpm. The next best way we have found to check the vacuum and
mechanical advance curves with the distributor in the engine is by
using an OTC/SPX hand vacuum pump and an OTC/SPX advance
reading timing light. To check the vacuum advance curve, use the hand
vacuum pump to vary the vacuum supplied to the vacuum advance and
then use a timing light to read the amount of advance given at
different amounts of vacuum from 1 to 23 inches. If the engine does
not have a degreed balancer, a timing light such as the OTC/SPX
advance timing light we use can allow you to “read” the amount of
advance. By observing the amount of advance at 250-rpm steps, you
can now check the mechanical advance; again if the balancer is not
degreed, the advance timing light will allow you to get advance
readings. A distributor test stand is much easier because you can run
the distributor at 6000 engine rpm or more without the fear of hurting
an engine. In many cases a distributor may still be advancing the
timing well above 6000 RPM; therefore the advance curve must be
checked at all the rpm ranges the engine will be used in! The hot rod
advance curve we see used most on a 9-1 compression engine is 10 to
12 degrees initial timing plus 22 to 24 engine degrees of additional
advance from the mechanical advance mechanism; the advance in
most cases is in the 3500 rpm range. The mechanical advance should
not start advancing before about 1000 engine rpm. Too much advance
at too low rpm may cause an overheating and/or a ping problem,
which could lead to engine damage. If the advance is at too high or low
of an rpm, the engine may overheat or not run up to its potential; it
may feel lazy on acceleration.

The Vacuum Advance Effect on Cooling

A vacuum advance can help cool a hot running engine by giving the
engine a little extra ignition timing advance under light load conditions
that goes away under higher loads. In most cases when you are using
a “hot-rod” mechanical advance curve along with a vacuum advance,
the amount of additional advance from the vacuum advance should not
exceed 10 degrees and not be in before 10 inches of vacuum. When
you get too much advance at too low an engine vacuum from the
vacuum advance you may get a vacuum advance ping at light throttle.
The vacuum source we like for the vacuum advance is a ported source
(no vacuum at idle). The reason for this is to avoid the timing change
that happens on a vehicle with an automatic transmission when it goes
into gear; the vacuum will go lower and cause the timing to change.
This can affect the idle speed and quality when the car is in gear,
especially if the engine has a hot cam (when the engine is in gear the
vacuum is lower and therefore it has have less timing advance, thus
effecting the idle speed).

The Air/Fuel Mixture Effect on Overheating

Now that the advance curves are correct, it is time to check the jetting
or air/fuel mixture. It is also very important to be sure that the fuel
pump can supply enough fuel volume and pressure, even at high loads.
The fuel pressure we use most is 5 ½ to 6 lbs. at all speeds, and this
pressure must be maintained even at high loads. If the fuel pressure
drops at high loads, the fuel mixture will go lean and create a heating
problem. An engine that is jetted too lean will create more heat than
an engine that has the correct air/fuel ratio; if the jetting is too rich,
the mixture may still be burning in the headers and exhaust system,
again creating more heat. Many of the overheating problems that we
have seen are due to a lean-at-part-throttle problem that is very
common on many original equipment and aftermarket carburetors; this
lean-at-part-throttle condition can create an overheating problem at
light throttle. The newer, reformulated, gasoline that can shift the
air/fuel mixture leaner by about 2.7% has brought many of these lean
mixture problems on. If the air/fuel mixture is too lean at any driving
condition, the engine will create even more heat for the cooling system
to dissipate.

The two methods of checking the air/fuel mixtures that work best for
us are: 1) using an exhaust gas analyzer, such as the unit we use from
OTC/SPX Tool Company called a MicroGas , or 2) using a lambda meter
such as the Professional Lambda Meter from MoTeC .

The most accurate and easiest method to check the air/fuel mixture
(jetting) of an engine is by observing the CO reading from an exhaust
gas analyzer, such as the unit that we use, the OTC/SPX MicroGas
portable exhaust gas analyzer. All that you have to do is place the
sample probe into the exhaust tailpipe and then the MicroGas will
supply the readings that you can use to determine the air/fuel mixture.
The second method involves using an extended range oxygen sensor
that is installed into the exhaust manifold in order to read the amount
of oxygen in the exhaust stream. We have been using the MoTeC
professional lambda meter with very good results; it is able to supply
us with the air/fuel mixture readings. This method using an extended
range oxygen sensor can be very helpful, but if the engine has a “hot”
cam, the readings may need to be confirmed at lower engine loads
with an infrared analyzer because of the extra oxygen in the exhaust
created by the overlap of the camshaft.

The air/fuel mixture that works best for a “stock” engine is: Idle
mixture CO reading of 1 to 3% or 14.1-13.4 to 1 air/fuel mixture and
at 3000 rpm cruise mixture CO reading of .75 to 1.25 or a 14.2-14.0 to
1 air/fuel mixture. A performance engine may need a richer cruise
mixture of up to 3% CO or a 13.4 to 1 air/fuel mixture. If any readings
taken are leaner than the target mixtures at any rpm range, that
leaner air/fuel mixture may create an overheating problem. Power
air/fuel mixtures also should be checked to be sure that the fuel
system is supplying the richer mixture the engine needs when it is
under higher loads; most engines use a power mixture of 6.6% CO or a
12 to 1 air/fuel mixture. In general if the air/fuel mixtures are richer
than the target mixtures, the engine may not run too hot, but it may
foul spark plugs and run poorly.

The Tuning Results

A properly tuned fuel and ignition system can help keep your engine
running cool and also will help to allow the engine to run as well as it
should. No matter which methods you chose to tune your fuel and
ignition system, having the correct air/fuel mixtures and ignition-timing
curves can help solve many overheating problems and make your hot
rodding experience trouble free.

Ole’s Carburetor & Electric Inc.

120 El Camino Real
San Bruno, CA 94066
650.589.7377
olescarb@sanbrunocable.com

John Bishop
Hot Rod Tuning
808 Burlway #2
Burlingame , CA 94010
650.343.4860
jfb396@aol.com

OTC/SPX Corporation
655 Eisenhower Drive
Owatonna , MN 55060
800.533.6127
www.otctools.com

MoTeC Systems USA

West Coast:
5355 Industrial Drive
Huntington Beach , CA 92649
714.895.6804

East Coast:
169-2 Gasoline Alley
Moorsville , NC 28117
704.799.3874
www.motec.com
Typical cooling system failures
1. The engine does not reach a temperature of approx. 90 C

 faulty thermostat - the bracket cracks causing a large circulation

permanently. The engine temperature then stays at approx. 70 C.
Third party thermostats are often leaky and fail rapidly. Check if the
thermostat is good by starting the engine and letting the temperature
reach 70 C then touch the upper radiator hose near thermostat. If it is
warm the thermostat is leaky and has to be replaced. The thermostat
has to open at 85-90 degrees.
 faulty coolant temperature sensor. Check can be made by
comparing the values indicated by the temperature gauge with the
values read with VAG-COM or by starting the engine and waiting until
the radiator fan switches on (usually at approx. 95 C). If the fan
switches on at let's say 80 C, the sensor sends wrong values and
needs to be replaced. Third party sensors are generally not accurate so
it's worth buying an original sensor.
 faulty temperature gauge - very rare

Note: driving with less coolant is not indicated. If the level is too low, the
temperature sensor may not pick up correct values.

2. The engine is overheating

 faulty thermostat - jammed in the closed position or damaged

housing worn in the middle where the shaft of the thermostat butts
(the latter is quite often in 1.6 AEE engines). This failure is causing the
big cooling circuit to not open and the engine to overheat. Sometimes
a partial blockage of the thermostat is manifested by engine
overheating when driving at higher speeds (the temperature increasing
significantly with speed). In this case, you must replace the
thermostat.
 water instead of coolant.
 the radiator fan not working - damaged radiator fan switch, fan
motor (rare defect), fuse. The fan not operating can have other cause
through which the heated liquid does not go to the radiator (jammed
thermostat, zapowietrzony układ, clogged radiator, damaged head
gasket)
 damaged expansion tank cap - cooling system has to work at the
appropriate pressure. A damaged cap causes a pressure escape or a
pressure too high. If the cap does not release the pressure, the coolant
begins to boil.
 clogged cooling system (most often the radiator) - the thermostat
opens properly, the radiator is cold and engine temperature is rising.
Diagnosis is best done by removing the thermostat to exclude its
possible failure as cause. If the radiator will not heat up. it is probably
clogged. Clogging the radiator is usually accompanied by high pressure
at the opening of the thermostat temperatures and higher. A similar
symptom gives a damaged head gasket.
 damaged head gasket - This damage is usually accompanied by loss
of coolant, white smoke, a significant increase in the pressure in the
cooling system, the lack of heating the interior, bleeding system.
Damage can be confirmed or ruled out with special hardware to detect
 CO2 in liquid or homemade: fire up a cold engine, let it run for about a
minute, turn it off, check the condition of rubber hoses (should be soft)
and unscrew the cap of expansion tank. If unscrewing is accompanied
by a lot of pressure, as described previously, the engine tests passed
successfully and probably the gasket head is damaged and needs
replacing.
 damaged copper gasket below liners. This causes similar
symptoms to head gasket failure. It is quite rare and repair requires
dismantlng the engine (cylinder head, pistons, liners and other things
along the way)
 faulty water pump - engine quickly reaches temperature, usually
coolant does not return to expansion tank, and there is no heating.
Coolant may be leaking from water pump and the radiator can remain
cold.
 missing plastic shroud directing air to the radiator.

3. No heat from heater

 clogged cooling system

 faulty water pump (usually when accelerating you can feel some heat)
 clogged heater or internal damage (cracks occur in the middle of
plastic case causing a lack of flow of fluid through the entire heater,
running at a higher speed results in its proper operation)

4. Incorrect readings on coolant temperature gauge

If the temperature stays too high and the fan t kicks in above its rated
temperature, the cooling system:

 has a leak
 has trapped air below temp. sensor

or there is a decalibrated

 temp. sensor
 fan thermoswitch

If the temperature stays too low, the thermostat is stuck open.

Possible signs of a failed head gasket
Note: some of the symptoms could be attributed to other parts failure too

1. Cooling system related

 constant overheating
 excessive pressure - constant bubbling in expansion tank, very stiff
hoses, constant coolant spill out from expansion tank
 oily residues in expansion tank
 smell of hydrocarbons in expansion tank
 outside leaks

2. Lubrication system related

 emulsion residues in oil filler cap or on oil dipstick

  oil level above normal limit
 outside leaks
 excessive pressure in crankcase, smoking

3. Exhaust system related

 white smoke out the tailpipe, sometimes specific smell

4. Combustion related

 misfire or rough idle

 lowered compression

 
Edited 1 December, 2015 by RicardoM