Kero Suppi Plush Sewing Pattern PDF

kero & suppi
a free sewing pattern by

kero & suppi plush 2 free sewing tutorial
kero & suppi plush

These cute little hand-held animals are made makes:
to look like the feisty and loveable characters
from Cardcaptor Sakura! This pattern goes One plush: about 8" tall, 4" wide, and 3" long
over how to make either Keroberos or Spinell (not including ears and tail)
Sun with the same basic body pattern.
Keroberos is a cute and gluttonous lion-cub
looking creature with sweet white wings. skills used:
Spinell resembles a black cat with big pointy
ears and tiny butterfly wings.
• Fusible web applique
• Curved sewing
• Basting
difficulty: • Darts
• Ladder stitch
• Sewing curves
The hardest part of this plush is likely sewing • Gathering, gathering stitch
the edges of the ears into the head dart. You
can also skip this and just fold the ears instead
(see step 7).
Sewing the body pieces is also tricky, as there
are a lot of parts that get in the way and make
the area crowded. Taking things slowly, a few
inches at a time, will be beneficial there.
sew desu ne?

| www.cholyknight.com |
// ©2019 Choly Knight // Items sewn using this pattern may be sold. Credit to “Choly Knight” or “Sew Desu Ne?” is appreciated.
You may not reproduce, share, freely distribute, or sell this pattern as your own in digital or printed form.
materials & tools:

• ¼ yd. of fabric for main body
• ¼ yd. or 19" x 9" piece of fabric for wings
• for keroberos: ⅛ yd. or 4" x 4" piece of light
yellow fabric for inner ears
• 2” x 2” piece of black applique fabric (such as
cotton, felt, or flannel) for eyes and mouth
• for spinell: 2” x 2” piece of turquoise applique
fabric (such as cotton, felt, or flannel) for eyes
• for spinell: 6" long pipe cleaner for tail
• 7" x 4" piece of scrap fabric for bean pouch
• poly pellets, rice, or beans for weight
• sewing thread to match main fabric and
applique fabrics
• poly-fil stuffing
• basic sewing tools (sewing machine, scissors,
iron, needles, pins, fabric marker, seam ripper)
suggested fabrics:
Plush, stretchy fabrics such as fleece or minky
faux fur are suggested. The variations of fleece and minky
mentioned to the left would work well, but really
any plushy fabric with a bit of stretch on the cross-
minky wise grain would be well-suited.
Stretch fabrics like fleece or minky will create
a more squat, round shape when stuffed.
Non-stretchy fabrics, like felt or cotton, won’t
cuddle fleece stretch when stuffed so the resulting plush will look
elongated as shown.
micro fleece minky vs. felt
anti-pill fleece
fleece
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printing the pattern:

To print the pattern, set your computer to print pages 21-23. If you’re unfamiliar with printing
and assembling a .pdf pattern, read the steps below.
At the print dialog box, check the box that says

print at “Actual Size” or 100%. Any other selection
(such as “Fit to page”) will distort the pattern so it’s
slightly larger or smaller and we don’t want that.
Print the pages needed for the file. You might have
one or more. Either way, be sure you have the
full collection by noting the page numbers in the
corner.
You can trace the patterns onto a different paper,

or you can also just cut them straight from the
printer paper. They might be a little hard to pin
through, so you might want to use your longest
pins. But you could also use pattern weights or
trace the outlines onto the fabric with a washable
marker and cut them out from there.
3
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cutting the fabric:
1 2 3 4
Place pattern on the fabric, Pin the pattern in place, use Using the paper as a For all fur fabrics, shake the
and make sure the stretch pattern weights, or trace the template, cut out the fabric. excess fuzz away.
line matches the stretch outline of the pattern with a Cut the required amount
of the fabric. The nap line washable marker. according to the pattern.
should go in the direction of
the fur.
cutting layout:
keroberos: spinell:
ST RETCH STRE TCH
body fabric body fabric
B3
¼ yd.; 9” long
¼ yd.; 9” long
A D D E K K F F
I1
B3 A D D E K K F F J J
NAP
NAP
I1
B1 B1 F F C C F F
37” wide 33” wide
inner ear
fabric STRE TCH
wing fabric ST RETC H
B2
wing fabric
⅛ yd.
¼ yd.; 9” long
N AP
B2 H H H H bean pouch
¼ yd.; 9” long
G G G G L L
4"
NAP
NAP
4”
C C
I2 I2 bean pouch 7” wide
18” wide
19” wide L L
4"
7” wide
before you begin:

• Briefly read the project instructions so you know what to expect.
• If desired, mark the cut fabric pieces with the markings and symbols from the pattern. Or wait
until the applicable step before transferring.
• Note that the seam allowance used is ¼” throughout the project.
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kero
eyes & mouth -- black
trace onto
paper side
spinell
eyes -- blue
pupils & mouth -- black hold applique
while pulling
1. prepare the face applique paper away
a. Take your fusible web and trace all of your applique pieces onto the smooth (paper) side. You should
have two pupils, a mouth, and a nose. for spinell: you should also have two eyes.
b. Fuse the bumpy (adhesive) side onto the wrong side of your applique fabric. The nose, mouth, and
pupils go on black. Spinell's eyes go on blue.
c. Cut out the eyes and arrange them on the head front (A) piece. Set your paper pattern on top of
the fabric piece (right sides up). Align the eye piece on top where the placement markings are. Then
carefully pull the paper pattern away while holding the applique piece in place.
spinell:
fuse eyes
first add smaller
pieces next
2. fuse the applique

a. Fuse the eyes in place with your iron (use a press cloth -- such as a scrap piece of cotton -- if you’re
using a polyester or fur fabric like minky).
b. Next, move onto the nose and mouth pieces. Fuse them much the same way as you did the eyes,
using the paper pattern and photos as a guide.
c. If you used heavy duty fusible web, you can keep the pieces
fused without sewing, or you can sew them in place a tip:
If these pieces are too tiny for you,
number of ways. I’ve used a zigzag stitch here.
you may want to use safety eyes and a
→→ Refer to the next step for some other applique options. nose for Keroberos. He does look just
like a stuffed animal after all!
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4
2
straight stitch; applique 3
great for felt whipstitch 1
2a. other applique options

Other good options for applique include a straight stitch, which involves sewing around the edge of the
applique pieces with a straight stitch using matching thread -- about 1/8” in from the edge.
You can also applique by hand; I prefer a whipstitch. Thread a hand-sewing needle with some matching
thread and knot it. Bring the thread up from the back of the project; about 1/8” in from the edge of the
applique shape. Bring it down perpendicular from the curve, just outside of the applique shape. This
completes one stitch.
For the next stitch, bring the needle back up about 1/8” away from the previous stitch and 1/8” in from
the edge just as in the first stitch. Once again, bring it down just outside the applique shape. Continue
this way until you’ve sewn around the shape.
for keroberos:
ear edge bend edge
around inner ear
press lightly
if needed
inner
ear
3. sew the ear edge

a. Grab your inner ear (B2) and ear edge (B1) pieces. The shorter inner curve of the edge piece needs
to be attached to the long outer curve of the inner ear.
b. Stretch and bend the ear edge to fit around the outer ear as shown. Pin the fabrics together.
c. Sew the edge to the inner ear along this section.
d. Open up the pieces when complete. They should be relatively flat. If they're a little puckered, press
them lightly with your iron.
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line up inner
ear with outer
ear fabric
leave open leave

for turning open for
turning
4. sew the ears

a. Take your ear pieces (either B1/2 & B3 or C). Take one with inner ear fabric and one with outer ear
fabric. Align them so right sides are facing and raw edges match up.
b. Sew them together along the long curved edge. Leave the straight edge free for turning the ear right
side out later.
Repeat with the remaining two ear pieces for two complete ears total.
clip along step

clip along 3 seam line
clipping
line
5. clip the ears

a. Turn the ears right side out through the opening.
b. for spinell: Locate the clipping line found on the paper pattern for the ears. Use it as a guide to
make a ¼" clip into the seam allowance of the ear opening. Repeat with the other ear.
c. for keroberos: The clipping process is the same, but it's done right along the ear edge seam
(from step 3). Make a ¼" clip right into the seam from before.
Repeat with the other ear, but be sure to clip on the opposite side.
sew desu ne?

a. Grab your head front piece

place with clipped (A) from before. The small
inner ear edge is open wedges found at the top
facing up within dart
are darts. Instead of sewing
them like usual, the edges of
the ears will be sewn into the
darts for a more 3D finished
look.
Place the clipped end of the
ear along the edge of the
dart with the inner ear fabric
facing up.
6. align the ears b. Fold the rest of the ear out
of the way (along the clipped
part). This small section
should be fully aligned
within the dart, ¼" away from
the opening (for the seam
allowance).
fold blend
head to dart
sandwich
ear edge
seam
into fold darts:
A wedge-shaped gap
found in a pattern. When
sewn in fabric, it creates a tuck
in the fabric and develops a 3D
shape. The diagonal sides of
the wedge are the legs; these
are matched up and sewn
to the point of the dart.
7. sew the ears into the head dart

a. Fold the rest of the head front over the edge
tip:
of the ear. This will sandwich the ear inside
the dart. Match up the dart edges as you would
with a typical dart. If this step is too difficult for you, you can skip
b. Sew the darts by starting at the opening and sewing the ear in the dart.
Instead:
moving down to the point.
When sewing the point, try to blend the seam 1. Sew the darts as usual without the ear inside.
in with the fold so it makes a smooth transition 2. Fold the ear along the clipping line instead of
and a rounder finished plush. cutting it.
Check your seam when complete to be sure the 3. Baste the folded ears to the top of the head,
starting at the dart seam.
ear is secure and there are no holes.
sew desu ne?

baste
the ears
to the
head
the
attached
ears! bend the ears
to align with
the head
8. baste the ears
a. Repeat step 7 with your remaining ear piece and the other head dart.
When complete both ears should be secured into the head through basting:
A form of temporary
just the ends. sewing meant to hold pieces
b. Fold the free edge of the ear around the top of the head front. The in place. A long stitch length is
often used for this reason. The
open edge should align with the side of the head front. finished result is not meant
c. Baste the ear to the head front within the seam allowance to hold it for to be seen and sometimes
future steps. is even removed later
(depending on your
project).
line up the
bottom dart
edges sew
the
bottom
dart
9. sew the bottom dart

a. Sew the last dart found at the bottom of the head front. Fold the head front in half with right sides
facing. Match up the diagonal edges that form the bottom dart.
b. Sew the dart the same as the previous ones. Start at the opening and go toward the point.
c. When sewing the point, try to blend the seam in with the fold so it makes a smooth transition and a
rounder finished plush.
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leave
open for
turning
10. sew the head back

a. Grab your head back pieces (D). Take them both and align them with right sides facing and raw
edges matching up.
b. If you haven't already, locate the opening for turning markings found on the head back paper pattern.
Transfer them over to the wrong side of the fabric.
Sew along this edge of the fabric only, but leave the opening that you marked.
c. Open up the pieces when complete.
check the ear

corners
line up back seam

to bottom dart
11. sew the head

a. Take your sewn head back pieces and align them over the head front you have so far. The head
back seam should align with the bottom head front dart.
Also, the opening for turning should be near the bottom of the head.
b. Sew around the perimeter of the head.
c. Turn the head right side out through the opening you left earlier. Check the corners of the ears to be
sure there are no holes or gaps.
→→ Set the head aside while we work on the body.
sew desu ne?

leave open
for turning
12. sew the arms

a. Grab all of your arm pieces (F). Take two of them and align them with right sides facing and raw
edges matching up.
b. Sew them together along the long curved edge. Leave the short straight edge free for turning the arm
right side out.
c. Turn the arm right side out. Repeat with the remaining two arm pieces for two complete arms total.
align open end of baste to

arm to body front body front
stuff arms
lightly
13. baste the arms

a. Stuff the arms lightly with stuffing. Leave the openings empty as we'll be attaching them to the body
next.
b. Grab your body front piece (E). If you haven't already, locate the arm placement lines located on the
paper pattern. Transfer them over to the right side of the fabric.
Align the open end of the arms within these placement lines.
c. Baste the arms to the body front within the seam allowance. This will hold them in place for future
steps.
→→ Set the body front aside for a bit while we work on the body back.
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leave open
leave open for turning
for turning
14. sew the wings

a. Grab your wing pieces (G or H). Take two of them and align them with right sides facing and raw
edges matching up.
b. Sew the wings together along the curved edge. Leave the short straight edge free for turning the wing
right side out later.
clip close to
stitching stuff very
lightly
15. turn the wings

a. Clip the seam allowances at the inner corners of the wings. Get as close as you can to the stitching
without actually cutting it. This will increase flexibility when the wings are turned later.
b. Turn the wings right side out through the opening. Define the tips with a chopstick or similar turning
tool.
c. Stuff the wings lightly with stuffing.
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for keroberos:
draw the top

stitching line
top
sew along the
drawn line
stitching:
one or several lines of
stitching done on the right
side of a project to serve
a decorative purpose
16. top stitch the wing

a. For a little extra detail, Keroberos' wing has a bit of top stitching. Transfer over the top stitching line
found on the paper pattern for the wing (G). You can also freehand the line with a fabric marker.
b. Stitch along the line through the stuffing to complete the look.
line up short
straight edges
17. sew the tail base

a. Grab your tail pieces (I1-2). Take one short end of the tail base (I1) and align it with the straight edge
of the tail tip (I2).
b. Sew the base to the tip along this edge.
c. When complete, open up the pieces and treat the tail base and tip as one piece. Repeat with the
remaining tail pieces for two tail halves total.
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leave open leave open

for turning for turning
18. sew the tail

a. Take both of your tail pieces (I1/2 or J). Align them with right sides facing and raw edges matching.
b. Sew them along the long curved edge. Leave the straight edge free for turning the tail right side out
next.
a. for keroberos' tail: trim

the excess seam allowance
19. turn the tail
along the curved edges. This insert straw
will reduce bulk and increase all the way to
the end
flexibility for when the tail is
turned.
trim
b. Turn the tail right side out. seam
For especially skinny pieces allowance
like these, a straw helps. at corners
Insert the straw into the tail
all the way to the end.
c. Stick a chopstick, pencil, or a.
other similar narrow tool into
the straw. This will push the
fabric inside, beginning to push fabric
into end of
turn the piece right side out. straw turn right
side out
d. Keep pushing the chopstick
into the fabric, allowing the
straw to slide out. Continue
until it the piece is fully
turned.
c. d.
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baste both
wings and tail
fill spinell
tail with fill
pipe cleaner keroberos
tail with
stuffing
20. baste the tail

a. for spinell's tail: insert your pipe cleaner into the tail all the way to the end.
b. for keroberos' tail: stuff the tail lightly with stuffing, especially toward the end.
c. Grab one of your body back pieces (K). If you haven't already, locate the wing and tail placement
lines printed on the paper pattern. Transfer them over to the right side of the fabric.
Place the open end of the wings and tail within these lines. The wings should be stacked one on top of
the other.
Baste the wings and tail to the edge of the body back as shown. Sew very carefully over the pipe
cleaner -- use only the hand wheel if necessary to avoid a broken/bent needle.
sand-
wich wings and
sew tail are secured
wings through
and tail inside
all
between layers
body back
pieces
21. sew the back

a. Retrieve your remaining body back piece (K). Align it
over the first one with right sides facing and raw edges
matching up. tip:
If your machine has trouble sewing
b. Sew the back pieces together along the edge with the through all the layers in part B, try
tail and wings only. lowering the top thread tension on your
for spinell: be sure to sew slowly and carefully over machine.
the pipe cleaner to avoid a broken/bent needle. Lowering the presser foot pressure also
helps (if your machine has that option).
c. When complete, open up the back pieces. The tail and In either case, sewing slowly is always a
wings should be completely secured inside. good solution.
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align
body clip seam
front allowance
leave at inner
over open for
body corners
turning and curves
back
22. sew the body

a. With the body back complete, retrieve your body front (E) tip:
It's very difficult to get all the
from before.
For both sides, make sure all the extra pieces are tucked toward bits crammed into the body when
the middle -- including the arms, wings, and tail. sewing this part.
Align the body front over the body back with right sides facing It helps to pin and sew only one half
of the body so the arms/wings/tail
and raw edges matching up. can be moved out of the way.
b. Sew the body front to the back around the sides and legs. Leave Then for the second half, shove
the top straight edge open for the neck. what you can out of the neck (as
shown) to make room.
c. Once sewn, clip the seam allowance at the inner curves and
corners. This will increase flexibility when the body is turned later.
leave open sew closed

for filling fill until not by hand or by
quite full machine
23. sew the bean pouch

a. Grab your bean pouch pieces (L) from your scrap fabric. Align the two pieces together with either
side facing (doesn't matter). Sew the pieces together around the edge, leaving a 1-2" opening (also
marked on the paper pattern) for filling the pouch.
b. Get your poly pellets and a funnel (I prefer a spoon, but both work). Fill the pouch with poly pellets
until it's not quite full.
c. Stitch the pouch closed by hand using a back stitch for extra safety, or take it to your machine. Stitch it
closed very slowly, using only the hand wheel if necessary. Sewing over a pellet will very likely break a
needle.
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stuff insert bean stuff

feet first pouch into rear rest of the
body
24. stuff the body

a. Turn the body right side out and begin stuffing it. Start by stuffing the feet semi-firmly. Keep the legs
light on stuffing if you'd like your plush to be more floppy.
b. Take your finished bean pouch (L) and put it into the rear of the plush.
c. Finally, stuff the rest of the body up to the neck.
insert needle from ladder

stuff the inside edge of opening stitch closed
head
25. sew the head closed

a. Stuff the head as well. Make sure there's plenty in the face so there
are no wrinkles or points left by the darts.
b. Once the plush is stuffed, make sure the seam allowances in the
head opening are tucked inside and prepare to ladder stitch it 2 1
closed. Thread a hand-sewing needle and knot it at the end. Insert
the needle from the inside of the opening and out of the plush near
one edge of the opening. This will leave the knot inside the plush.
4
c. Continue from here doing a ladder stitch. Take a 1/8” stitch into the 3 seam allowance
(folded inside)
fold of one side of the opening, then go across and take another.
Keep going down the opening until you reach the end.
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a. When you’re finished, stitch a

bring
needle out pull at knot into the end of the seam.
1-2" away thread while Then insert the needle near
clipping the finished knot and out of
the plush about 1-2” away.
b. Pull the thread through and
hold it taut while snipping
the thread. The excess thread
should sink back inside the
plush -- all hidden!
26. trim the thread
stitch around pull at thread to

opening of neck cinch neck closed gathering:
The process of shortening the
length of a piece of fabric by sewing
long stitches through it. When the
thread is pulled, it forms small folds that
ruffle the fabric.
gathering stitch:
A long version of the running stitch, which
is a stitch done by weaving the needle
in and out of a length of fabric going
along a line. The long stitches (about
27. close up the neck

¼”-½” long) gather the fabric
when pulled later.
a. Thread a hand sewing needle with thread and knot the end. Sew
a long gathering stitch around the opening of the neck, about ¼”
away from the edge.
b. Once finished, pull at the thread to gather the fabric and cinch up the opening. Sew a few knots at this
opening to hold it closed. If you have a lot of thread left, consider leaving it attached for adding to the
head.
sew desu ne?

a. Align the head over the

align body so they're both facing
head ladder forward. The back seam of
over stitch in the head should also match
body place
up with the back seam on the
body.
b. Ladder stitch the head to
the body, going around the
opening in the neck. Stitch a
wide circle to ensure the neck
is secure and not wobbly.
→→ TIP: take big basting
28. attach the head stitches for the first pass
to make sure the head
placement is right. Then
go around again with
neater, tinier stitches for
the second pass.
for spinell:
twist the tip
of the tail
29. twirl the tail

a. Take the end of the tail and
twirl it around a pencil or
your finger for a little twist!
congrats!
this completes
your plush! Now
give it a big
hug!
sew desu ne?

pg. 1/3
HEAD
FRONT (A)
Cut 1 from main fabric
¼” seam allowance
EA
ke ED
ro GE
R
be (B
Kero & Suppi Plush
ro 1)
s
P A T T E R N
STRETCH www.cholyknight.com
Cu
¼” se rom mai
HEAD BACK (D)
t 2 f
am
NAP
a llowa abric
nf
nce
STRETCH
applique
o
placement
p e n
NAP
ing f
NAP
or tu
rning
INNER EAR (B2)

Cut 2 from accent fabric
keroberos
NAP
ARM (F)
NAP
Cut 4 from main fabric keroberos
¼” seam allowance EAR BACK (B3)
Cut 2 from main fabric STRETCH
pg. 2/3
cement
arm pla
arm pla
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P
in
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ac
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Kero & Suppi
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Plush
P A T T E R N H
www.cholyknight.com E TC
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BODY FRONT (E)
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STRETCH
T nig
(Kri)c
T k
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P h oly K
C b
w.c BAmain faance
NAP
w w Y
D from allow
BOCu t 2 eam
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¼”
keroberos
TAIL TIP (I2)
NAP
keroberos Cut 2 from main fabric

TAIL (I1)
NAP
spinell Cut 2 from main fabric

TAIL (J)
NAP
pg. 3/3
ker ING (Gg fabric

Wfrom winowance
STRETCH
s
ero )
all
Cut seam
o b
NAP
4
¼”
Cut 4 from
¼” seam allo
top ing
WING (H)
st tcline
spinell
NAP
i h
wing fabric
wance
STR
TCH E
opening for filling
clipping line
Kero & Suppi

Plush STRETCH
P A T T E R N
NAP
www.cholyknight.com
BEAN POUCH (L) Cut 2 from main fabric
Cut 2 from scrap fabric
EAR (C)
¼” seam allowance spinell
SPINELL EYE
applique
trace & cut KEROBEROS
2 of turquoise EYE
applique
trace & cut
2 of black
NOSE
applique
SPINELL trace & cut
PUPIL SMILE
1 of black applique
applique
trace & cut trace & cut
2 of black 1 of black

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kero & suppi

a free sewing pattern by

kero & suppi plush

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materials & tools:

micro fleece minky vs. felt

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printing the pattern:

At the print dialog box, check the box that says

You can trace the patterns onto a different paper,

cutting the fabric:

before you begin:

2. fuse the applique

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2a. other applique options

3. sew the ear edge

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leave open leave

4. sew the ears

clip along step

5. clip the ears

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a. Grab your head front piece

7. sew the ears into the head dart

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9. sew the bottom dart

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10. sew the head back

check the ear

line up back seam

11. sew the head

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12. sew the arms

align open end of baste to

13. baste the arms

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14. sew the wings

15. turn the wings

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draw the top

16. top stitch the wing

17. sew the tail base

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leave open leave open

18. sew the tail

a. for keroberos' tail: trim

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20. baste the tail

21. sew the back

sew desu ne?

22. sew the body

leave open sew closed

23. sew the bean pouch

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stuff insert bean stuff

24. stuff the body

insert needle from ladder

25. sew the head closed

sew desu ne?

a. When you’re finished, stitch a

26. trim the thread

stitch around pull at thread to

27. close up the neck