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COURSE : Clothing & Textile Technology

LEVEL : Year 2
SUBJECT : Manufacturing Technology
LECTURER : Bongiwe Kolisi (kolisib@cput.ac.za)
INT MODERATOR : Dr S Patnaik
LECTURING TIME : 08:30-10:00 (1h30mins)
DATE : 22 February 2019

STITCH TYPES
In discussing seam types, it is necessary to make some mention of stitch
types.

1. Class 100: chain stitches

a) Description:
101 is the simplest stitch type compared to others.
Stitch formation:
 formed by a needle thread passing through the material and
interloping with itself on the underside of the seam.
 Used for binding.

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 Class 100
a) 103: Blindstitch
 is formed with one needle thread which interloops with itself on the top
surface of the material.
 The thread passes through the top ply and horizontally through portions
of the bottom ply0

b) 101: Saddle thread

 One thread Blind stitch for hemming.

2. Class 200: Hand Stitch

 stitches originating as hand stitches
 This class of stitch looks like domestic hand stitch.
 It is made by special type of needle and sewing machine, which is
called pick stitch sewing machine.
 Needle thread is passed from one side to another side in the fabric
and makes a sewn line.

3. Class 300: lockstitches:

 Commonly used stitch type in the clothing industry.

 This is the only stitch that can comfortably stitch styles with
corners and very sharp curves.
 Can be secured by means of back tacking through the use
of the back tacking lever/button,
 It allows up to 30% of stretch in the seam.

Disadvantages: this type stitch cannot be formed without a

properly threaded bobbin and because of the bobbin size, the

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 thread runs out quickly forcing the operator to re thread the
bobbin, which is time consuming.
The maximum number of needles that can be used is only one or
two (twin needle).

a) 301 Lockstitch Stitch

 formed by a needle thread passing through the material and
interlocking with a bobbin thread.
 Threads are meeting in the center of the seam.
 Stitch appear the same on the top as well as the bottom.

Stitch Class: 301

b) 301 Twin Needle Lockstitch

Same as 301 lock stitch except that two rows of stitch are
formed. Common needle spacing is (6mm)

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 Top View Under View

Twin Needle Lockstitch: 301

304 Zig Zag Lockstitch

 is formed with a needle and bobbin thread forming an equal zig zag
pattern.
 This stitch is also used in bar tacking and lockstitch button sewing and
buttonholing.
Under view Top view

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 Stitch Class: 300
4. Class 400: multi thread chain stitches
Chainstitch Stitch formed by 1 needle thread and being interlooped with
1 looper thread that is set on the underside of the seam.

1. Class 401 Twin Needle:

Chainstitch Stitch formed by 2 needle threads being interlooped with 2
looper threads, forming 2 independent rows of stitch set.
advantages
 Security is higher than a lockstitch
 Less likely to have puckering than class type 300
 One or more threads are used.
 One group is called upper threads and the other is called looper
threads (lower threads).
 These types of stitches have higher production than lockstitch due to
large package.
 It is widely used for making garments out of stretching fabrics.

Stitch Class 401: Chain Stitch

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2.Class 406 Bottom Coverstitch
 Stitch formed by 2 needle threads passing through the material and
interlooping with 1 looper thread with the stitch set on the underside of
the seam.
 Looper thread interlooped between needle threads, providing seam
coverage on the bottom side.

Stitch Class: 406

2. Class 407 Bottom Coverstitch

 Stitch formed by 3 needle threads passing through the material and
interlacing with 1 looper thread with the stitch set on the underside of
the seam.
 Looper thread is interlooped between needle threads, providing seam
coverage on the bottom side only.
 This stitch type is very much similar to class 406 except that it uses three
needle threads and has even more stretch.

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 Stitch Class: 407

5. Class 500: over edge chain stitches

a) 503 Overedge Formed by 1 needle thread and 1 looper thread
producing a purl on the edge of the seam.
b) Use: serging or blind hemming.

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 Stitch Class: 500

6. Class 600: covering chain stitches

a) Stitches under class 600 uses up to three sets of threads.
 Set 1 is called a Needle thread
 Set 2 is called a top cover thread
 Set 3 is called bottom thread cover

Applications
a) Stitch type 602 is a commonly used stitch type and is used for
attaching the following:
 Tapes
 Braids
 Elastic to knit fabrics

b) Stitch type 605 is commonly used in the construction of knit

garments.
c) Stitches under this group are very complex and may require up to
nine rolls of thread.

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 Stitch class : 600

The use of components and trims

Components are sections of main fabric which make up the garment as
well as the additional items.

Trims: The raw materials used in sewing room other than fabric are called
Trims. materials are directly attached to the fabric to make a garment are
called trims. this is more for decoration, either functional or non-functional.
Many items are primarily fastenings but unless they are totally hidden, they
often provide decoration as well.
Examples

1. Labels: the majority of items that are traditionally called labels are
sewn in to garments and the type of label and its cost are closely
related to the type of garment and the level of market in which it is
selling. No garment can be sold without some kind of label attached
to it.

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  Size labeling is clearly necessary and country of origin
marking. Indicate size of the garment, or collar length
 Care labeling is important to ensure that garments do not fail
the consumer as a result of incorrect action. Indicates the
care instructions of the garment
 Brand name: most retailers or manufacturers always include
their brand name and often carry information identifying the
manufacturer who supplied the retailer and date of
manufacture.
Motif: decorative items which are attached flat to the outside of the
garment.
 Often used to describe a decorative addition to a garment
but the use of carrying a company’s name, trade - mark or
logo is now so widespread that the subject of labels and the
subject of motifs cannot easily be separated.
 The majority are either all-over embroidery or a section of
fabric with some embroidery on it.

 The labels with the highest standard of appearance are woven

to narrow width with the necessary information woven into them.
 They normally give the company’s name and the garment size.
Labels are commonly used in men’s and women’s outerwear
and tailored garments, especially at the more expensive end of
the market.
 In made-to-measure garment the individual purchaser’s name is
sometimes embroidered on the label using a computer-
controlled embroidery machine.

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  The least expensive labels are printed on a large area of woven
thermoplastic fabric and heat sealed to the narrow width
required.
 They can be delivered to the garment manufacturer as a roll of
individual labels to be cut apart by hand, or already cut and
sealed in length. The sealed edges are a frequent cause of
discomfort when worn against the skin.

 Linings – generally a functional part of a garment, being used

variously to maintain the shape of a garment, to improve the hang
and comfort by allowing it to slide over the garment covering the
inside of complicated construction to make it neat. In many cases
linings are selected to match the garment, but in others they are
chosen to add to the design of the garment.

 Interlining – used to reinforce and control areas of garments such as

collars, cuffs, waistbands, hems, facings, and the fronts of the
jackets and coats.

 Lace, braid, and elastic: narrow trimmings generally referred to as

lace and braid can be various natural and synthetic materials or
mixtures but are mostly polyester, polyester/cotton and cotton for
lace

 Hook and loop fastenings: e.g. Velcro, this item consists of two
woven polyamide tapes, one covered with very fine hooks and the
other with very fine loops. When pressed together they stick securely
to each other.

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  Seam binding and tape: in some types of garment, neatening of
seam edges by means of over edging is inadequate or
inappropriate and the fabric edges are bound with bias cut strips of
woven fabric, often a satin construction.

 Shoulder pads: have long been a standard item in tailored

garments both for women and for men but from time to time they
become a fashion item and are in wider range of garments
including knitwear and lightweight blouses. Available in a variety of
shapes and thicknesses to suit garment styles and to give the
requisite amount of bulk, and in a variety of materials and
constructions depending on whether they are to be used in a lined
or unlined garment.

 Eyelets and laces: garments frequently require small holes in them in

the form of eyelets for a variety of purposes such as ventilation on
water proof garments, for the emergence of drawstrings at waist or
around hoods.

 Zip fasteners: they provide a neat and strong fastening in garments

and can be functional or decorative or both.

 Buttons: hardware items used in conjunction with buttonholes for

the fastening of the garments.

 Tack buttons, snap buttons and rivets

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