Sei sulla pagina 1di 9

Organic Cotton Supply Chans and Small Producers: Governance, Participation and

Strategies
Author(s): Sukhpal Singh
Source: Economic and Political Weekly, Vol. 41, No. 52 (Dec. 30, 2006 - Jan. 5, 2007), pp.
5359-5366
Published by: Economic and Political Weekly
Stable URL: https://www.jstor.org/stable/4419082
Accessed: 19-08-2019 05:53 UTC

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Organic Cotton Supply Chains and
Small Producers
Governance, Participation and Strategies
Whether local producers will benefit from trade liberalisation is predicated upon their
ability to enter global value chains or production networks of the lead firms. Understanding
how these chains are organised, controlled and governed is the key to unravelling how the
gains from these networks/chains are shared across the participants. This paper
examines the issues of governance and small producer participation in the organic
cotton supply chain in India with the help of a case study of a private firm. The paper
assesses the prospects and ways and means of including marginal and small producers
in these chains if the organic sector has to play its developmental role.

SUKHPAL SINGH

T he concept of supply chain has many variants such as


situation. The CCA is a method of analysing how and for whom
commodity chain, value system, value chain, productionsuch market conduits operate. It is a tool for understanding who
network, value network, "complex" and "filerie" which benefits how, and how those patterns of benefit distribution can
are also, sometimes, used interchangeably. A value system isbe a changed. Secondly, it pays attention to power, its sources,
set of interlinked complete firms that have all the businessuses, and effects in a socially differentiated environment. It is
functions [Gereffi et al 2001]. Alternatively, a commodity chain also an approach to politics and political institutions as endog-
is a network of labour and production processes whose end result enous to the existence and functioning of markets with attention
to differentiated market agents involved in collective action.
is a finished commodity. It is the series of relations through which
an item passes from extraction through conversion, exchange,Finally, regulation, both state and non-state, is also an endog-
transport, distribution and final use [Ribot 1998]. The termenous feature of markets [Ribot 1998].
"filerie" refers to material flows through the agro-industrial food Studies of governance in conventional supply chains in India,
chain and consists of vertical, horizontal and diagonal linkages.e g, in cashew [Eapen et al 2003], and fruits and vegetables
It was only during the 1990s that the commodity chain concept [Deshingkaret al 2003] show that these chains, by and large, exclude
came to be widely used mainly because of the writings of Michel small farmers. The newly emergent organic produce supply chains
Porter, Womack and Jones, and Gereffi. There are three key across the globe have also been found to exclude small producers
elements of value chain analysis - barrier to entry and rent, due to reasons of high certification costs, smaller volumes they
goverance, and systemic efficiency [Kaplinsky 2000]. The produce, and tighter control by chain leaders in the absence of
measurement of value in a chain involves looking at distribution any local market outlets for the organic producers [Raynolds
of profits, value added, and price mark ups [Gereffi et al 2001].2004]. It is in this context that this paper examines governance
The value chains or production networks can range from local and participation issues in the organic cotton supply chain in India
to domestic/national, regional, and global. The actors in a value with the help of a case study of a private firm. It also examines
chain can be integrated firms, retailers, lead firms, turn key the prospects of including marginal and small producers into these
suppliers, and component suppliers [Sturgeon 2001]. chains if the organic sector has to play its developmental role.
Global value chain or commodity chain analysis (CCA) high-
lights the levels of integration between suppliers, producers, and Governance in Supply Chains
consumers for a given commodity. It helps to examine changing
global commercial relationships between firms within the value Governance which is central to value or commodity chain
chain in greater depth. By focusing on the nature of transactionsanalysis can be defined as non-market coordination of economic
between those operating within a supply chain, it provides new activities. The firms directly or indirectly influence the organisation
perspective to standard international trade theory. Whereas tradeof global chains through the governance structures they create.
theory is built on the assumption of trading partners meeting each Governance is nothing but the ability of a firm in the chain to
other in free markets as independent agents, the value chain influence or determine the activities of other firms in the chain.
analysis facilitates an understanding of how tightly or looselyThe value chain governance involves specification of key
knit and how integrated or fragmented an entire chain or its links parameters of business for suppliers like what is to be produced
are. A value chain analysis requires distinguishing betweenhow (processes and standards), when and how much and at what
price [Gibbon 2001]. However, the issue of governance also
different forms of governance and the reasons for their existence
[Eapen et al 2003]. Global CCA addresses the issue of who refers to the key actors in the chain that determine the inter-firm
division of labour and shape the capacities of participants to
controls global trade and industry and how agents locked into
lower value segments of trade and industry can break out of thisupgrade their activities [Gereffi 2001 ]. Chains differ significantly

Economic and Political Weekly December 30, 2006 5359

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with respect to how strongly governance is exercised, how multinational and multidomestic in their operations. Most of the
concentrated it is in the hands of a single firm, and how many lead time, their production is locally based [Rossett et al 1999]. Trade
firms exercise governance over chain members [Gereffi et al 2001]. in labour-intensive products, produced largely by developing
Governance within a chain implies that some firms in the chain countries, is organised by a few global buyers who work for or
set and enforce the parameters that others follow. act on behalf of major supermarkets or global retailers. This has
The need for governance within the chain by internal and meant that the access of the developing countries to developed
external stakeholders arises from the need for product differen- world markets is dependent on their ability to enter the global
tiation; difficulty for the developing country producers to meet value chains or production networks of lead firms. Understanding
developed country market standards for technical and cost rea- how these chains are organised, controlled and governed is key
sons, and increased concern with labour, environmental, and to understanding how gains from these networks and chains are
product safety standards either due to legal obligations or con- shared across the chain participants [Eapen et al 2003]. Global
sumer, government or NGO pressures [Dolan and Humphrey value chains allow the supermarkets to operate without incurring
2000]. Governance is also needed because the buyer has a better the high costs and risk of ownership of facilities or franchising,
understanding of the demands of the market and of the risks and lower transaction costs but still retaining global access to
associated with noncompliance with standards [Eapen et al 2003]. supplies. The buyers (supermarkets) in these chains dominate and
Governance is required when the supplier lacks technical com- govern quality through production standards.
petence or market knowledge. The positioning of a product in
the chain, which involves quality, consistency, variety, processing,
packing, reliability, and price, requires governance [Dolan and Organic Cotton Supply Chain Governance and
Humphrey 2000]. The issue of governance in value chains assumes Small Producers in India
importance due to reasons of market access for developing
countries in the new trade regime, fast track to acquisition of There have been major changes in the opportunities available
production technologies, distribution of gains, leverage points to developing country clothing industries like phasing out of
for policy initiatives, and a funnel for technical assistance. The material flow analysis (MFA), new global value chains and new
global chains can be producer-driven or buyer-driven in terms upgrading opportunities in the form of services, volumes, and
of their internal governance [Gibbon 200 la]. In the former case, processes and products. The global retailers use a variety of
the key parameters are set by firms that control key product and channels to source materials some of which are direct from
process technologies whereas in the latter, the key parameters overseas manufacturers, agencies, importers, trading houses, and
are set by retailers and brand name firms which focus on design and converters. By direct sourcing, retailers aim to increase margins
marketing, not necessarily possessing any production facilities by cutting out intermediaries, to reduce lead times and to better
[Humphrey and Schmitz 2001]. control for product quality and contract compliance though it
An important question in agro-commodity chains is how to devise involves significant investments in foreign countries in screening
a mechanism of regulation that can make upgrading opportunities suppliers, negotiating with them and monitoring production. But
more socially broad-based and how to devise a way of ensuring most of them have attempted supply base reduction more recently
that the rewards from meeting these opportunities become more in terms of number of suppliers and they now expect suppliers
predictable [Gibbon 2001]. The issue is not whether to participate to provide new services like full fabric sourcing, design services
in the global commodity chain but how to do it such that it leads and supplier-managed inventory. Most of them also refer to their
to sustainable and equitable income growth [Kaplinsky 2000]. suppliers as partnership or a semblance of that, mutual obligations
Too much reliance on those at the head of the buyer-driven chain and exchange of business information [Palpacuer et al 2005].
for design, technical and marketing assistance may trap exporters Organic apparel is one of those businesses in which everyone
and producers into low-level production roles. The other important seems to know each other. Moreover, because of the unique
questions of governance outside the chain are: what is the role requirements, higher costs and the sometimes itinerant supply of
of government agencies and other external forms of regulation organic cotton, many in the industry have developed completely
in determining both product and process parameters in value vertical operations from field to finished product, which ensures
chains; to what extent there is a trade off between coordination compliance and supply while also keeping costs low enough to
and control within the chain, and use of external agencies to make the organic apparel business profitable [Speer 2005].
certify and regulate firms. Even the question of power relation- The first organic cotton project started in Turkey in 1980
ships within a chain has not been given enough prominence in and was organised by a European cooperative of fair food
the discussion on chain dynamics [Gereffi et al 2001]. The importers called the Good Food Foundation (GFF) with local
division of labour within value chains and the nature of network organic growers of food crops. It was supported by a new Dutch
linkage, i e, connection mechanism, governance style, and power company - Bo Weevil - formed for dealing with organic cotton.
dynamics, are important research questions [Sturgeon 2001].By the late 1990s, projects and experiments on organic cotton
The producer-driven governance structure in global value chainswere taking place in a wide range of settings in more than 17
in agribusiness emerged during the early 20th century, more in countries in North America, Latin America, Asia, Australasia,
the form of vertical integration by transnational corporationsAfrica and Europe during the late 1990s [Myers and Stolton
(TNCs) [Gereffi 2001]. The deregulation in the agriculture sector1999]. By the late 1990s, 14,000 tonnes of certified organic cotton
has now typically been accompanied by re-regulation elsewherewas grown in 15 countries with significant production coming
within the sector, especially in the area of diet, health, and the
from Turkey (29 per cent), US (27 per cent) and India (17 per
environment. The food industry is now characterised by intra- cent). Organic thrust in cotton was the result of: environmental
firm, vertically integrated, transnational production systems. The
regulation in international trade in textile, benefits of trade for
food companies do not centrally coordinate global intra-firm the developing world if they could adapt to new demand, organic
division of labour involving global outsourcing. Rather, they are
as a strategy in competitive textile market, consumer response

5360 Economic and Political Weekly December 30, 2006

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and demand, and producer interest and benefits [Myers 1999]. hectare against the world average of 721 kg per hectare (2004-
The largest producer of organic cotton today is Turkey, followed 05). The area under cotton cultivation in India is 21 per cent of
by the US, India and Pakistan. By contrast, China is the largest world but in terms of production, it accounts for 13 per cent.
producer of conventionally grown cotton, followed by the US, Cotton plays a major role in India's economy, both in terms of
India/Pakistan and Turkey [Speer 2005]. providing employment directly to about 60 million people, and
Organic cotton, which comprises the bulk of the organic cloth- in terms of production of wealth and earning foreign exchange
ing industry, is making its way into everything from infants' wear for the country. About 65 per cent of cotton grown in India is
to sportswear. Most surprising, perhaps, is increasing commit- rainfed. In the last five years, India's cotton production has
ment to organic fiber from big players including Timberland, fluctuated significantly. The gap in domestic demand and
Nike and Marks and Spencer, which are showing a desire to be supply was met, on many occasions, by imports. About 54 per
good corporate citizens by reducing the environmental impact cent of the total pesticides used in Indian agriculture are used
of their respective apparel supply chains. This year, even on cotton alone, though it accounts for only 5 per cent of the
Wal-Mart's Sam's Club debuted an organic yoga-inspired line total cultivated area. On an average, Indian farmers cultivating
of women's wear under the Josephine Chaus label, produced by cotton spend roughly Rs 500 crore on seeds, around Rs 500 crore
Greensource. In March 2005, Whole Foods initiated its first on fertilisers and almost Rs 2,500 crore on pesticides every
venture into apparel and home products in its new Austin, TX- year. Spraying lethal pesticides on cotton has taken its toll on
based store, featuring clothing from Under the Canopy as part human life, e g, in 2001 in Warangal district, there were 12 deaths
of the new line up. Certainly, one major factor is a segment of and over 40 persons were affected by exposure to pesticides
the market place identified as lifestyles of health and sustainability while spraying cotton. Maharashtra and Gujarat along with
(LOHAS), which refers to a group of US adult consumers, some Madhya Pradesh and Andhra Pradesh are major producers of
63 million strong, who "value health, the environment, social cotton in India accounting for more than 75 per cent of area under
justice, personal development and sustainable living". There are cotton and 66 per cent of production as of 2004-05. These are
three reasons that consumers traditionally have sought out organic also major growers of Bt cotton now, in that order. Erratic rainfall,
apparel for: (1) allergy sensitivities; (2) lifestyle choice; and poor or spurious quality seeds, deteriorated soil structure and
increasing pest attacks have led to a crisis in cotton farming in
(3) softness. Today, Nike is the largest consumeroforganic cotton in
the world. In 2003, three million pounds of the 120 million pounds India. Hundreds of small and marginal cotton farmers have
of cotton it consumed was organic. Nike projected that in 2004, committed suicide in Maharashtra, Punjab and Andra Pradesh
approximately 30 per cent of all Nike apparel cotton materials during the past 10 years, and continue to do so every year
contained some percentage of organic cotton, and 47 per cent of [Menon 2003].
all cotton-containing Nike apparel garments (more than 48 million) Around the late 1980s, farmers in some parts of India deli-
were manufactured with materials that contained a minimum of berately switched to organic farming, and later, the Vidarbha
5 per cent organically grown cotton. Nike's goal is for all of its Organic Farmers' Association (VOFA) was among the earliest
cotton apparel to contain at least 5 per cent organic cotton by initiatives of organic cotton farming in India, along with Maikaal
2010. Retailer Coop Switzerland is the second largest consumer bioRe in MP. The Dutch company (SKAL) was the first to
of organic cotton, using 2 million pounds in 2003 [Speer 2005].explore this, and set up a joint venture for organic cotton, with
Due to the many problems in conventional cotton production, Gujarat State Cooperative Cotton Federation (GUJCOT) during
organic cotton production emerged. Cotton is one of the most the 1990s in the Patan district of Gujarat. The cotton was
heavily sprayed crops in the world, according to the organic trade bought from farmers at the local or international market rate,
association. Although it represents less than 3 per cent of the whichever was higher, besides a premium of 20 per cent. The
world's agriculture, cotton uses more than 25 per cent of the project worked well but after three years, the cotton could not
world's chemical insecticides and more than 10 per cent of the be exported due to the export quota restrictions by the govern-
world's chemical pesticides, many of which can cause cancer, ment. Therefore, the project collapsed [Menon 2003]. The total
birth defects and/or nervous system damage or are known production of certified organic cotton fibre in 1997 was
carcinogens. It is estimated that only 0.1 per cent of these 1,175 tonnes. Maikaal bioRe with 800 growers and 900 tonnes
chemicals reach the targeted pests, with 99.9 per cent dispersing of cotton production was the largest [Myers and Stolton 1999].
into the soil, water and air. The difference between organic and But in terms of area under organic cotton, it was of the order
conventionally grown cotton is primarily in the methods usedof 20,000 hectares as registered area and a much larger acreage
to grow them, not the end product, Organic cotton production (60-70,000 hectares) as unregistered [Menon 2003]. In early
involves issues of conversion to organic, crop rotation, crop 2005, there were eight organic cotton projects, with 1,525 farmers
varieties, seed treatment, soil fertility management, pest and across 137 villages in MP, and 2,559 farmers in 106 villages in
disease management, and harvesting [Elzakker 1999]. other states.

II
Organic Cotton in India
Case Study of
Cotton assumes great significance as nearly one-third of India's
'Vasudha' Organic Cotton Project
export earning is from textile sector and cotton alone constitutes
60 per cent of the raw material used in this sector. The sharePratibha Syntex is a major Indian textile firm with 1.10 million
of cotton in world textile manufacturing is around 45 per cent metres per month knit fabric processing capacity at Pithampur
whereas it is around 70 per cent in India. India exports cotton
(MP) and 30 million metres synthetic woven fabric processing
in value added forms, i e, yarn, cloth and ready-made garments
capacity per month at Surat (Gujarat). It has both wet and dry
dyeing facilities and claims to be the only fibre-to-garment
and ranks third in global cotton production after US and China.
The yield of cotton in India is one of the lowest at 440 kg per
company in India. It produces 40 million pieces of garments per

Economic and Political Weekly December 30, 2006 5361

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year. The company has the status of a two star export house for penalties for default on any of the practices and even covers non-
textile products. The Vasudha (meaning "Mother Earth") cotton crop sales at reasonable prices. The seeds and other inputs
project of Pratibha Syntex for organic cotton operational since are given on credit by the company against premium on organic
1998-99 intends a clean and eco-friendly cotton production and cotton. The company suggests timing of agricultural operations
has a separate supply chain with a leased in ginning mill and like sowing, input supply and harvesting to all farmers. The
separate storage at farm level to avoid contamination. Pratibha violation of organic practices by the growers leads to the ex-
Syntex's organic project is a completely vertically coordinated tension of the conversion period or exclusion of farmer from the
supply chain from raw cotton production to garment manufacture. project. The lower yield of organic cotton is compensated by
The company has a field office at Karhi village (80 km from lower costs (Rs 5 per kg) and higher price (15 per cent premium
Indore) in the Maheshwar block of Khargaon district which is on market price). The premium is paid a year later as the seeds
the West Nimar region in Nimar valley. This region (Nimar) and other inputs for the next season are supplied against this
accounts for 7 per cent each of population and area of MP and premium. But no premium is paid for the in-conversion produce.
receives rainfall of 800-1,000 mm annually and is moist semi- The farmers are also given regular training and technical guidance
arid. More than 50 per cent of its population is tribal compared for organic produce quality. But the agreement is clearly pro-
with state average of 23 per cent. It accounts for 6 per cent of firm as it does not specify many obligations of the sponsoring
gross cropped area of the state, 19 per cent of which is irrigated company but hardly leaves out anything for the farmer. The
making for 5 per cent of the state's gross irrigated area, with project growers are certified by SKAL International, Nether-
cropping intensity of 111 as against 126 of the state as a whole. lands, and the per acre cost of group certification is Rs 80- 100.The
The region's irrigated area and agricultural productivity percent- company has its own ICS and its production standards meet the
age is lower and tribal population percentage higher than that norms of NOP of USA, IFOAM, European Guidelines, Soil
of the state average but has higher number of energised pumpsets Association, UK, Oeko Tex 100, WRAP, SA8000 and IMO
per 1,000 hectares of area and even higher consumption of Switzerland. The field office maintains a farm dairy along with
electricity per capita and of fertilisers per hectare. Its credit farm map with details of inputs used, production practices fol-
deposit ratio (50) is also higher than that of the state as a whole lowed and output harvested. The major varieties grown are
(43). Cotton accounts for only 2.3 per cent of the state's cropped BUNNY 145, ANKUR 651, MARUTI, PARAS and DCH.
area with major crops being paddy, soyabean, wheat and gram.
But, the yields of all these crops, except soyabean and gram, are Farmer Participation:
much below all India levels, with cotton yields being only 62 Who Are the Organic Cotton Growers?
per cent of that at all India level [Shankar 2005].
A primary survey of 44 contract organic cotton growers in nine
Organisation of Organic Cotton Production of the 11 villages where the company has almost complete farmer
coverage was conducted with the help of a structured schedule
The Vasudha project works with 3,000 growers with 21,000 to understand the farmer perceptions of the working of the organic
acres of organic area in 108 villages within a radius of 25 km project of Pratibha. Out of the total 44 farmers interviewed 5
from Karhi. The organic cotton production coordination includ- per cent were marginal (less than one hectare of land), 22 per
ing inputs is undertaken by a new company - Green Technologies cent small (1-2 hectares of land), 22 per cent medium (2-4
which is a subsidiary of Pratibha. The farmers in these villages hectares) and 50 per cent large farmers (> 4 hectares). Average
range from a minimum of 5 to a maximum of 90 with landholdings landholding was found to be 15.3 acres with 50 per cent having
ranging from three to 60 acres. The area is mostly rainfed with as high as 25 acres (10 hectares) (Table 1) which is much larger
only 20 per cent being irrigated by tube wells, open wells and compared to the average size of operational holding in the state
Narmada pipelines. The company has a total of 26 staff for the (2.28 hectares or 5.6 acres). Further, 40 per cent and 24 per cent
project with seven field officers, 14 supervisors, two consultants, of the holdings in the state are marginal and small respectively
one accountant and two support staff. A field officer takes care with only 20 per cent being semi medium (2-4 hac), 13 per cent
of 3,000 acres of organic area. medium (4-10 hac) and only 2.6 per cent large [GoP 2004].
In about a dozen villages, 86 per cent of the project farmers Further, the average size of operational holdings in Nimar valley
are part of the organic project and are mostly certified. The is 2.83 hectares (7 acres) and marginal and small holdings ac-
company also provides drip irrigation facilities, which costs about counted for 52 per cent of total [Shankar 2005]. This shows that
Rs 7,000 per acre. The equipment is supplied by Laxmi Pipes the company largely works with large and medium farmers as
and about 200 farmers have drip irrigation systems. The farmer 50 per cent of its growers were really large growers with more
has to make an application to the company to join the organic than 10 hectares of land each. Further, the average land under
project as a grower stating the area proposed to be put under contract was 12.8 acres which reconfirms the large farmer bias
organic production, and availability of organic manure. It has of the company's organic project (Table 2). The correlation
written annual contract farming agreements with the growers. coefficient between ownership holding and organic acreage was
Contract farming can be defined as a system for the production 0.84 which again showed that larger farmers put larger acreage
and supply of agricultural and horticultural produce by farmers/ under the organic project. Of the total land of these growers, 79
primary producers under advance contracts, the essence of such per cent was irrigated. Most of the farmers (88 per cent) were
arrangements being a commitment to provide an agricultural using wells (ordinary dug wells) for irrigation and almost 80 per
commodity of a type, at a specified time, price, and in specified cent of them were organic certified. Out of the total 44 farmers,
quantity to a known buyer [Singh 2002]. The contract agreement 20 per cent were in the second year, 25 per cent in the third year
is very detailed and specific on commitments and penalties unlike and 23 per cent in the fourth year of their contract with the
many other organic farming contract agreements. It lays very company. But 20.5 per cent farmers were into contracts with the
clearly all the production requirements expected from the farmer, firm since last six years and 9 per cent since last five years. And,

5362 Economic and Political Weekly December 30, 2006

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more of these were medium or large farmers only. It shows that the reliable income, 54 per cent higher income and 7 per cent
company initiated the contract organic farming with large farmers considered new technology as benefit (Table 4). Of the 44
only. More recently, it is also adopting small and marginal farmers contract farmers, 61 per cent farmers reported delayed payment
in the area to reap economies of scale of its project. The cropping as a problem. Only 4 per cent farmers reported poor input supply
pattern was dominated by cotton and soyabean in kharif and wheat by the company as a problem. Most of the farmers were satisfied
in rabi witl other kharif crops being chillies,jowar, and maize. with the company's performance.
Another study of organic cotton growers under another project There is no other farmers' organisations in the area. Only one
(Maikaal bioRe) in the region also found that the organic growers farmer knew about another organic cotton buyer - Maikaal
were of higher social status (education, caste, housing and wealth) bioRe's organic operations in the area. Interestingly, 68 per cent
and better equipped with means of production like land, farm of farmers described contract farming to be good for them while
equipments, off-farm income, and micro irrigation systems. They 32 per cent were of the opinion that it was very good for them.
also hired more labour and had higher ownership of livestock.
They used as much labour in cotton as conventional growers but Table 1: A Profile of Pratibha's Organic Contract Growers
(All land in acres)
use of nitrogen and phosphorus was only half of that applied
by conventional growers. But they used more irrigation per kg Category No of Total Land Average Irrigated Unirrigated
Farmers Land-
of seed cotton (6 per cent) compared with that in conventional
holding
cotton fields [Eyhorn et al 2005]. Of the total land cultivated
by these growers (671 acres), 84 per cent was under organic Marginal 2(4.5) 4(.60) 2 4(.76) 0(0)
production contracts. Almost all of the marginal, small, and Small 10(22.7) 39(5.81) 3.9 28(5.29) 11(7.75)
Medium 10(22.7) 81(12.07) 8.1 76(14.37) 5(3.52)
medium farmers put their entire holdings under organic produc-
Large 22(50) 547(81.52) 24.9 421(79.58) 126(88.73)
tion but large farmers put about 82 per cent of their land under All 44(100) 671(100) 15.3 529(79) 142(21)
organic production. Surprisingly, 99 per cent of the land was
Note: Figures in parentheses are per cent in to
owned by the farmers. Only a couple of large farmers had leased
Source: Primary survey.
in altogether only six acres of land (Table 2).
All the farmers were provided with inputs like seeds, Table 2: Distribution of Grower Land by O
biofertilisers, biopesticides, technical knowledge, inputs on credit, (Acres)
and certification support. However, only 50 per cent of the large Category Own Land Leased Under Average Non-
farmers had availed of drip irrigation facility. Of the total, 80 (No of in Contract Land Contract
per cent farmers shifted to organic farming due to lower input Farmers) under
Contract
cost, 72 per cent due to land improvement, 48 per cent because
of good technical help, 39 per cent because of input supply by Marginal (2) 4 (0.6) 0 4 2 0
the company, and 36 per cent due to assured market. These are Small (10) 39 (5.86) 0 36 3.6 3
Med (10) 81 (12.18) 0 81 8.1 0
multiple responses by farmers as generally there are multiple
Large (22) 541 (81.35) 6 443 20.1 104
reasons for such shift (Table 3). The survey revealed that 84.1 Total (44) 665 6 564 12.8 107
per cent of the farmers got inputs on credit, and 93 per cent of 671 Acres (100) (84 per cent) (16 per cent)
the farmers got higher price benefit. All the contract farmers were
Note: Figures in parentheses are per cent in total
monitored by the company. The annual certification cost was also Source: Primary survey.
born by it which was Rs 80-100 per acre. Terms and conditions
of the contract were the same for all farmers. This shows the Table 3: Distribution of Growers for Reaso
company's transparent and non-discriminating attitude. About Organic Farming
47 per cent farmers reported that their risk of crop production
Category No of Land Low Input Input Marketing Tech
had decreased as their input cost had reduced considerably. Even Farmers Improve Cost Support Help
in the case of no rain, they do not worry now, as their investment
Marginal 2 1 1 1 1 2
had reduced by more than 50 per cent in case of cotton. In case
Small 10 5 7 5 5 5
of crop failures, 39 per cent farmers reported the reason for the
Medium 10 9 8 1 2 4

low yield of the crop to be natural calamity (low rainfall). Large


In 22 17 19 10 8 10
All 44 32 35 17 16 21
case of crop failure, the company did not provide any relief though
(100) (72) (79.5) (39) (36) (48)
it had not happened in the past yet. All the farmers received higher
than the market rate for cotton due to the premium paid. Note: Figures in parentheses show percenta
Source: Primary survey.
But there were differences in farmer perception of the range
of premium as they sold the crop at different times of the year.
Table 4: Distribution of Grower Respo
Only about 5 per cent growers sold in the open market to gain for Contract Organic Farming
from higher prices. All of the farmers came to know about contract
Category Number Better Reliable Better Higher New
farming through the extension network of the company. This
of Farmers Skills Income Soil Mgt Income Tech
indicates that the company has strong networking with the farmers.
As far as adopting contract farming was concerned, 84 per cent Marginal 2 2 2 2 2 0
Small 10 10 9 10 8 0
of the farmers cited reduced input cost, 50 per cent technical help
Medium 10 10 9 10 7 0
on use of inputs, 45 per cent land improvement, 45 per cent
Large 22 10 9 10 7 3
All
marketing facilities, and 36 per cent premium price. All farmers 44 32 29 32 24 3

wanted to continue contract farming under the guidance of the (73) (66) (73) (54) (7)
company. As major benefits, 73 per cent of farmers cited better
Note: Figures in parentheses show per
farming skills, 73 per cent improved soil structure, 66 per cent
Source: Primary survey.

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Further regarding the declining area under food crops, 75 per subsidiary company - Navrang Biofood Products for marketing
cent found no decline in area. Only 25 per cent of farmers reported of organic food products.
some area decline under food crops. As far as effects on the labour Some of the global buyers have their own codes of conduct
market and wage rates are concerned, all farmers responded that on use of labour and protection of the environment for the
supply of labour has increased and wage rates have decreased upstream stages of the chain which are to be followed by chain
as organic does not require much hired labour especially as partners like Pratibha. These codes are a part of the corporate
pesticides are not used that much now. All the farmers reported social responsibility of global players. For example, the Nike code
that the company had given them new technologies for farming of conduct for a manufacturer or supplier includes no forced
like bio-pesticides and bio-fertilisers. Only 25 per cent of farmers labour, no child labour below 18 years in footwear and below
reported that the company has given them drip irrigation facility. 16 years in other products, no home-based production, minimum
64 percent farmers reported that they were provided with improved wages, all mandatory benefits to labour, specified hours of work,
seeds. Out of 44 farmers, 32 per cent of farmers suggested that environmental safety and protection, and documentation and
they should be provided with drip irrigation facilities, 27 per cent inspection. Nike is 5 per cent organic in conventional footwear
wanted inputs to be delivered to their doorstep, 18 per cent each and accessories. On the other hand for Sara Lee (France), supplier
wanted a copy of the contract and crop insurance schemes, and selection guidelines include ethical standards, no violation of
16 per cent adequate supply of good quality seeds. Importantly, national legal requirements, environmental protection, no child
all farmers were of the opinion that if more farmers came under labour (below 15 years) and specified working hours.
the contract programme, their cost of certification will reduce.
Moreover, insect/pest attacks will also reduce as no insects will Problems and Governance Issues
come from neighbouring fields of non-contractual lands. in Organic Supply Chains

Processing and Marketing Other than cotton, Pratibha is also into wheat and so
due to the need for giving an entire crop cycle of organi
Organic cotton products account for 10 per cent of total cotton to the farmers but it could not market the produce of these
textile production of the company. Out of a total of 50 spindles, crops due to small volumes and high costs of processi
four are used for organic cotton. The quality parameters include packaging. It also tried organic turmeric production whi
fibre length, fibre strength, elongatic elasticity and micronaires sold in bulk to other buyers. The major problem in the
and colour. There is a separate godown at the mill for the organic market, as per company perception, is lack of regular supp
products. There are 30 knitting machines. The company has a quality besides the problem of storage. As far as instit
ready-made garments unit but branding and cutting is outsourced. markets are concerned, they want a whole range of food
The stain removing in case of organic textiles is done by water The problem of multiple certifications for domestic and
only as against chemicals in case of non-organic products. The national markets and for different buyers also raises the co
final stages of manufacturing are pressing and ironing, tagging delays deliveries. The processors need longer staple cotto
(brand, specifications, and price) and folding and packing. A total lint length more than 30 mm and need bigger volumes.
of 11 teams work on outer garment machines (casual wear), and gin level, they need stronger packing material, no ink la
a similar number on undergarment machines, under the same roof. but stickers and clean trucks. For processors, dying in o
The North American Draft Organic Fibre Standards are followed is a problem and they are looking at new products in the h
in spinning, knitting, dyeing, and finishing processes for organic sector like sanitary pads but there are no manufacturing fa
cotton. The company also imports organic cotton from Turkey in India for authentic organic cotton. The traders and pro
and Senegal and the price is 30 per cent higher than the price face problems of: inconsistent supplies, insufficient vo
of conventional cotton. The company also imports conventional lack of quality storage, lack of market information, unde
cotton as it is cheaper and of better quality. loped domestic market, and high quality conditions for
The major organic product is yarn which is exported to South Finally, it is the ginning which determines the quality of
Africa, Singapore, Malaysia and South Korea. The second in terms of length of lint which cannot be undone.
important product - garments - is exported to European countries The ginning part of the chain suffers from child labou
and the US. The fabric is largely sold in the domestic market. working conditions, dirty surroundings and unfair wages a
Organic cotton products sales are of the order of Rs 250 crore chain drivers have very little control on these. Ginning,
and account for 5 per cent of total business in cotton. Vasudha labour cost is only 2-3 per cent of the total cost of the final p
and Natural Touch are being registered as brands for domestic is known for very poor labour standards, work conditio
and export markets. The company supplies yam to a dozen buyers living conditions, especially in Gujarat and MP. There
like Benneton, Cavlin Klein, De-Cathion, GAP, H&M, Nike, a practice of child labour in ginneries in MP. It is also not p
J C Penny, Next and Woolworths (SA); fabric to another 10 to to implement minimum and equal wage in India due to th
12 buyers like Cavlin Klein, Dokcers, GAP, Hugo Boss, H&M, dynamics of society. The women may lose work or m
Mango, Nike, LandsEnd, Sara Lee, Target, Tommy Hilfiger and higher exploitation due to higher payment. Therefore
Zara; and ready-made garments to another 15 to 20 buyers which agencies like Maikaal BioRe have gone in for their own o
include brands like Auchin, Bonbton, Benneton, Dockers, certified gin and acquiring SA 8000 standards. It is also d
Galleries La-Fayate, Gerber, LAT Sportswear, Louis Phillipe,
to ensure fair trade standards in ginning as the nature of w
Muji, Monprix, Versand, Polo Ralph, Promode, Prana, Prinemps,
seasonal. Therefore, there is a need to create alterative jobs
Raymonds, Sara Lee, The Children's Place, Today's Man, Vanor outside the gin like cleaning, white washing, and co
Huesen, Woolsworth (SA), Basic Thinking, Colors, Pepe Jeans
making. Also, making farmers comply with fair trade st
and Living Crafts of Germany, besides Norm Thomson, Cutteris an issue as they cannot be monitored and there is an adv
and Buck, Eco Ganik and Katherine Hammet. It also has another
relationship between the farmer and the labour. Therefore,

5364 Economic and Political Weekly December 30, 2006

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is a need to maintain a separate fair trade fund with the farmer failure, and offers prices which are based on open market prices
organisation for the welfare of the labour community. Though of conventional cotton/produce. This is a serious issue and it is
there is a fair trade for raw cotton but not having graded price against the spirit of contract farming and partnership as even a
and lower price for last picking makes it unfair. The fair trade significant premium over market price may not help a farmer
price in cotton comes to 0.37 euro cent or Rs 22 per kg. There if open market prices go down significantly, which is not un-
have to be individual farm contracts with groups or farmer common in India. Therefore, a minimum contract price is a must
organisations under fair trade standards and a guaranteed price to reduce the vulnerability of cotton growers due to fluctuations
for the farmer. Also, there is no pressure for fair trade in textiles. in market prices, not market-based premiums.
The fair trade issues in cotton include child labour in picking, As women are involved in farming, cotton picking, manufac-
women labour and their work conditions and gender gap in wages. turing, design, and retailing of organic cotton products, the gender
The contaminants (foreign matter, e g, gutka packs and human issues in organic cotton production include the role of women
hair) are different from trash (leaves and twigs), and cannot be in decision to go organic, workload on women due to organic
removed by machine. Therefore, quality improvement in terms input preparation and use, lower wages for women and social
of contamination control requires picking cotton with covered cost of certification. So, the organisation of chains (extension,
heads, not eating in cotton fields and in the cotton store area or documentation) from their perspective is required with more
market. The Bt cotton spread in some of the organic cotton project gender sensitivity.
areas has led to mix up problems at the farm level. Whereas some
farmers are frank about it and go out of organic projects on their III
own, others do not reveal the Bt acreage. There are Bt test kits Conclusion and
available to check Bt cotton presence in the field which is cheaper
Strategies for Better Governance
than the lab test which costs Rs 100 per test. Some of the organic
cotton players also make their farmers keep empty seed packs The organic cotton value chain in India is very complex and
for evidence of seeds used as a control mechanism at the farmerwide due to the large variety of final products from towels to
level. Also, if farmers do not take seeds from the organic cotton
sanitary napkins. But the farmers and the labourers are the
production organisers, then there are doubts about Bt cotton seed
weakest links in the chain driven by importers, exporters and
use. Maikaal decertified 100 farmers last year as they used Bt retail chains. In this context, marketing of organic cotton need
cotton seed. Similarly, Vasudha project of Pratibha blacklisted
to take into account local markets, developing niche markets
a farmer who planted Bt cotton without its permission. At thegeneric promotion of the organic textiles market, government
farmer level, cleaner cotton was ensured by some farmer groups
applying environmental criteria to its own buying policies for
in Maharashtra by paying Rs 0.5 per kg more for cleaner picking institutions such as police forces, schools, army, air force, navy
but the farmers had problems of quality loss due to 'mandi' and railways and so on, blending organic cotton with conventiona
gin conditions and delayed payments. At the farmer level, quality cotton in textile production, working with environmentally
could be improved by not picking cotton early in the morning sensitive companies; and linking with local industries geared to
to avoid moisture and separating infected balls from good ones. making organic products (such as the hand-loom industry in
There is also a need to improve yields of rotation crops, develop
India which contribute 20 per cent of the Indian textile production
market options for these crops and create/organise common and where handmade and custom-made designs of fabrics can
storage and processing facilities to tackle the problems of small easily be handled). There is already a good beginning made with
volume and high cost. Farmer organisation and ownership issues the two stakeholders' workshops being organised this year by
are also involved as the organic certification is with the sponsorSolidariadad where farmers, NGOs, processors and buyers
or organiser, not the grower. In fact, the contract is highly biased
participated.
against the farmer as almost all the terms and conditions of theMajor conditions for successful interlocking between agri-
contract specify only farmer obligations in working with the business firms and small producers include increased competition for
company. The company's only responsibility as per the contract procurement instead of monopsony, guaranteed market for farmer
agreement is to procure certified organic/in-conversion cotton produce, effective repayment mechanisms, market information for
at 15 per cent premium over the market price for conventional farmers to effectively bargain with companies, large volumes of
cotton and try to sell the non-cotton produce of the grower. The transactions through groups of farmers, for lowering transaction
contract has very detailed and strict conditions for the farmer. costs, cooperation among genuine agribusiness firms in the area,
For example, the farmer agrees to keep the spray pump required and no alternative source of raw material for firms. Further, for
for organic farming separately and not use it for any other the sustainability of company-farmer partnership schemes, it is
chemical pesticide or fertiliser. The lending/borrowing of the important that the company is able to successfully market its
spray pump to/from non-organic farmers is considered a default products so that farmers do not suffer from lack of markets.
and the pump has to be subjected to testing by the company from Building relationships of trust with farmers through company
time to time. Similarly, a farmer is to maintain a one meter border
reputation rather than marketing gimmicks is crucial. This
crop, as a buffer between the organic and the non-organic cropsrequires mutual respect, fair and transparent negotiation processes,
if the entire farm is not under organic farming. The buffer crop
realistic assessment of benefits, long-term commitment, equitable
has to be one meter high and should be there for at least foursharing of risk, and sound business plans. Innovative pricing
months. Even the crops meant for this purpose are specified bymechanisms like bonus at the end of the processing cycle, shares
name. Further, the farmer is not supposed to interact with anyin company equity, dividends, producer's fixed price, and
media and give any information about the project without the quality-based pricing, which reward performance can help
written permission of the company. contract performance.
The contract protects the company interest at all costs to theMarket access for small producers depends on: (a) understand-
farmer and does not cover the farmer's production risk, e g, crop
ing the markets, (b) organisation of the firm or operations,

Economic and Political Weekly December 30, 2006 5365

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(c) communication and transport links, and (d) an appropriate [This paper was presented at the seventh international conference on
policy environment. So far as the role of the government in the management in agriFood chains and networks, June 1- 2 , 2006, Ede, The
Netherlands.]
commodity chain is concerned, it can proactively help the stake-
holders in the chain to identify the opportunities and threats in
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5366 Economic and Political Weekly December 30, 2006

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