CUTTING DEPARTMENT

SPREADING AND CUTTING

The cutting department makes the marker plan according to
fabric consumption is planned and requested from the fabric
store.

The marker plan has the following details which gives the
fabric consumption per marker.

Nap direction
Way( number of garments per lay)
Lay length
Lay height; number of plies

Marker plan is prepared as per the shipment date of the size

wise order ratio.
Marker marking software Optitex
The marker efficiency achieved for basic styles is 80-90%
The number of pieces that need to be shipped first are cut
first and bundled accordingly.

MARKER PLANNING AND MARKER MAKING

After cut order plan is done by planning department, marker
planning and lay planning is done in the cutting department.
Optimum use of material and cutting systems are two important
considerations during planning of cutting. The purpose of marker
planning is to determine the most efficient combination of sizes and
shades for each order and to produce the best fabric yield and
equipment utilization. One cutting order requires several markers to
achieve optimum efficiency. This depends on the size ratio given by
the buyers.

Marker making is the process of determining the most efficient

layout of pattern pieces for a specified style, fabric, and distribution
of sizes. The process of arranging pattern pieces in the most efficient
manner requires time, skill, and concentration. Markers are made in
CAD. Patterns made in CAD are received by the cutting department
from sampling. Based on these patterns marker is made.

MANUAL SPREADING
The fabric roll is fixed on a clamp just before the spreading table. One
helper is there to draw the fabric from the roll and pass on the table.
The other two operators spread the fabric to other end of the table
and while returning back to the starting point edge matching is done
manually and the layer is straightened with the help of a big scale.
End cutters or scissors are used to cut the fabric.

Basic spreading equipment consists of:

- 1. Spreading surfaces,
2. Fabric cutting devices.

In case of manual cutting end-cutters or scissors are used. The fabric

is spread on the smooth table surface and spreading is controlled
manually. Papers are used after certain layers of spread. The
repetition in insertion of paper depends on the type of fabric.

1. White Paper: To provide the stability to the lay while cutting and
avoid them from sliding.
2. Colour Paper: To differentiate the shade variation.

CHECKS AND STRIPES MATCHING

Checks and stripes fabric are spread manually. Horizontal stripes
matching are done with the help of threads tied end to end with the
use of clamp. These clamps are separated from each other at
distances 1-1.5 meters. Vertical stripes matching are done at the time
of relaying. The process is same for check fabrics.

CUTTING
Pattern verification is done by QC before cutting. Cutting of the
spread lay is done by : -
Band Knife Cutting: One cutter and a helper are required in cutting
by band knife. Cutting clamps are used to keep the cut parts together
in lay.
For stripes and checks block cutting is done. After that relaying is
done.

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RELAYING
After that relaying is done. Stripes and checks matching are done for
the block cut fabric. After this the block goes for cutting again.
The marker is planned with a relaying allowance around all pieces
that must be matched. The fabric is spread as through it were plain,
and cut up into blocks. The blocks requiring matching are then
relayed, manually, so that all the superimposed plies are correctly
positioned. The relayed blocks are then cut in the normal way. This
method is useful if there are relatively few pieces requiring matching,
as it can reduce spreading times considerably and permit longer
markers.

POSITION MARKING
This operation marks components with guides for sewing and other
operations. Drill marker is used for marking the pocket placement
positions, dart lengths etc. The mark itself is a very small hole.

SHADE MARKING
This operation ensures that the components cut from different
shades of the same colour do not get mixed up during the assembly
process. Every component for one garment is marked with a unique
number, printed on a small ticket which is stuck on the component.

BUNDLE PREPRATION
Bundles of cut work are prepared according to the size, colour and
quantities, their actual composition determined by the requirements
of the sewing room. Generally the bundle size varies from 60-100
pieces as required.

BUNDLE TICKET
These tickets identify each bundle and in themselves play an
important role on production planning and control for sewing and
finishing sections.

The sticker has the following details:

Number
Size
There are two ways of ticketing followed here: -
Paper ticketing
Stamp ticketing
There are ten colours used for ticketing. This colour is decided by the
quality in- charge based on the shade variation.

COMMON CUTTING AND SPREADING DEFECTS

-Mismatch
-Shapeout
-Ragged cutting
-Size variation