Documenti di Didattica
Documenti di Professioni
Documenti di Cultura
15 Summer 2004
www.scrollsawer.com
Jewelry Box
SCROLLED FROM SCRAP WOOD
Hopping Kangaroo
A REAL ACTION TOY!
CONTENTS
Volume 5 • Number 2 • Issue 15
April • May • June
PATTERNS
2
CONTENTS
11 Butterfly
Segmentation
Volume 5 • Number 2 • Issue 15
FEATURES
Editor’s Column 4
Letters to the Editor 6
News & Notes 8
Info Exchange 10
Bragging Page 13
Beginner Patterns 14
Classifieds/Advertiser’s Index 78
53
White-tailed
Deer Portrait
42 Milkweed Pods
Wall Sconce
Number Drills and Wood The pattern featured in “Graduate’s Clock” contained
To answer the question of where to purchase number extra lines on it. If all lines are cut, the project comes
drills, may I suggest your local hardware man at Ace apart. We apologize for this error. The corrected pattern
Hardware? If that fails, go to NAPA, AutoZone or an is available as a free download (www.scrollsawer.com)
auto parts store. While at the latter, get a point file. They or you may call or write our office for a printed version.
cost about $1.25 and can be used on heavy blades to Scroll Saw Workshop, 1970 Broad St., East Petersburg, PA
make turning faster and easier. Put the blade in your 17520, 888-840-8590.
machine, tighten it and start the machine. Then hold the
point file on the back corners of the blade to round and From Holiday 2003 (#13), three ornaments were
shape the blade. featured that should have been credited as designs from
I suggest that Mr. Kern, who has trouble finding WOOD Magazine’s November 2002 issue. They are Angel
wood in “Letters to the Editor,” Holiday 2003 (Issue with Horn (#4), Christmas Tree (#11) and Reindeer (#13).
#13), go to the local Goodwill and buy old dressers and
desks, and use the wood from those items. He also can
check with local cabinetmakers because when a board is
Write Us!
not the right size, they dispose of the wood. Most of this
We want to know what’s on your mind. Please contact us
wood goes into a landfill.
by mail at: Letters to the Editor, Scroll Saw Workshop,
Remember, knots are not to be cut off and trashed.
1970 Broad St., East Petersburg, PA 17520 or email us at
They are God’s beauty marks.
editors@scrollsawer.com. Note: Letters may be edited
for clarity and length. Opinions expressed by our letter
Owen Monteith
writers do not necessarily represent those of the staff and
Coolidge, Arizona
management of Scroll Saw Workshop magazine.
Resource for
with $75
order
Woodworking Books
See
our
catalog
for
details.
FREE
CATALOG!
We’ve included a free copy of
our new catalog with this issue.
If it’s missing, or you need
another copy for a friend,
call or email us today!
Source Code: CATS04
1-800-457-9112
CustomerService@FoxChapelPublishing.com
INFO EXCHANGE
Questions, Ideas and Tips from SSW Readers.
Scroll Saw Maintenance Easy Pull-out Section Removal
I have a model DW788 De Walt 20" scroll saw and could As usual, I read the latest issue of Scroll Saw Workshop
not find where lubrication is needed, even through De from cover to cover. What a great magazine; keep up the
Walt. At Cathy Hart’s recommendation, I contacted Rick excellent work. My reason for writing is in response to a
Hutcheson. He told me that there are no letter in the last issue, Spring 2004 (Issue #14). Elmer
lubrication points on the Dewalt. Irwin says that he dislikes the staples holding the pull-
Everything is sealed bearings and when out pattern section in. My solution is to take a ball point
the bearings go bad, you just replace pen with the pen point retracted, slip it over the end of
them. I thought that Rick’s advice might each staple, and stand each end up until
help other scrollers with the same it is vertical. Then I lift the section right
problem. out of the magazine with no damage to
Email from Don Stih the patterns. Once I remove the pull-
out section, I carefully push the staples
back down.
Wood Sources Will Hockenbury
Ken Kern wrote a letter in Holiday 2003 (Issue #13) Belvidere, New Jersey
looking for places to find 3⁄4" wood. Constantines Wood
Center of Florida Inc. is a source he’s looking for. They Share your greatest idea or pose your
have an excellent catalog and can be found at 1040 E. most puzzling question.
Oakland Park Blvd., Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33334, 800-443- Send your ideas and answers to the Info Exchange
9667, Fax: 954-565-8149, www.constantines.com. Page, Scroll Saw Workshop, 1970 Broad St.,
Ralph Wengler East Petersburg, PA 17520 or email us at
Goleta, California editors@scrollsawer.com.
Stylized
By Frank Droege
Butterfly
Segmentation
An Intarsia Look at
a Fraction of the Cost
drum sander to
T
his beautiful plaque round the edges,
captures one of the but you can also
butterfly’s most character- hand sand the pieces.
istic traits—its color. Done using
the segmentation technique, a Step 6: Paint the pieces
technique similar to intarsia, the using the acrylic craft
design is cut apart, sanded, painted, paints of your choice. To get
and then glued back together. If you Step 2: Cut the inside border the speckled effect on this piece, a
prefer a more natural look, try using of the pattern using a #2 reverse basecoat of gold was applied, then
stains. With different stains, you can tooth blade. This border is also the white paint was dabbed on with an
produce an intarsia look without inside border of the frame. ordinary kitchen sponge.
spending a lot of money on exotic Step 3: Remove the inner pattern
woods. Step 7: Using the numbers as your
piece and set it aside. Glue the frame guide, glue the pieces in place inside
Step 1: Using temporary bond spray to the backer board with yellow the frame with yellow carpenter’s
adhesive, glue the pattern to the 3⁄8" x carpenter’s glue. Use clamps if glue. Finish with the clear, water-
11" x 9" white cedar board. This desired. Once the glue has dried, cut based satin varnish of your choice.
board is your pattern board. The 1⁄4" along the outside edge of the frame.
x 11" x 9" luan plywood board will Note that you will be cutting FURTHER READING
become your backer board. Set the through both the pattern board and
the backer board. Country Mosaics for
backer board aside. Scrollers & Crafters
Step 4: Set the frame aside. Cut the By Frank Droege
MATERIALS & TOOLS inner pattern piece into the parts Over 30 segmentation patterns
including hex signs, quilt
Materials: marked on the pattern and transfer blocks, signs and more.
• 3⁄8" x 11" x 9" white cedar, pine or the numbers to the backs of the $12.95 plus $3.50 S&H
softwood of choice (pattern board)
pieces. (parcel post)
• 1⁄4" x 11" x 9" luan plywood (backer
board)
• Temporary bond spray adhesive Step 5: Using 180-grit and then 220- Fantasy and Medieval Mosaics
• Sandpaper, 180 and 220 grits grit sandpaper, sand all of the pieces. for the Scroll Saw
Turn pine into beautiful
• Acrylic craft paints of choice I used a Dremel rotary tool with 1⁄4" segmentation art. Patterns
• Clear, water-based satin varnish include knights, castles and
of choice
dragons.
• Yellow carpenter’s glue $14.95 plus $3.50 S&H
(parcel post)
Tools:
• #2 reverse tooth blade Available from:
Fox Chapel Publishing
• Clamps of choice (optional)
1970 Broad St., East Petersburg, PA 17520
• Dremel rotary tool with 1⁄4" drum sander Phone: 800-457-9112 FAX: 888-369-2885
(optional) Rounding the edges by hand sanding www.FoxChapelPublishing.com
• Ordinary kitchen sponge or by using a rotary tool will add a nice Or check your local supply store.
touch to the finished piece.
Photocopy at 100%
Bragging Page!
“Goblin” By Dick Smith, Congress, AZ
One of the best friends of the Smiths’ dog is Goblin, a Border collie.
Goblin’s owner, Bev, takes care of the Smiths’ dog once in awhile. To
show his appreciation, Dick scrolled a portrait of Goblin for Bev,
using a pattern he made. Dick first used 1⁄4" oak plywood for a portrait
and 3⁄4" poplar for a frame. Then he made a similar version for Bev,
using birch for the portrait and oak for the frame. Primarily a
woodcarver, Dick began scroll sawing about four years ago.
“Home Show,
Kingsford, Michigan”
By Albert Munkacsy, Pembine, WI
Albert has been scrolling since 1946, when his brother bought
him a 24" scroll saw. Now, close to 60 years later, he is retired
and enjoys making scrolled and intarsia projects. He harvests
three kinds of pine, aspen, white birch, oak and soft maple from
his land in northwest Wisconsin. His favorite subjects are intarsia
hummingbirds, and he enjoys modifying patterns by putting
hummingbirds into different flowers. To save his patterns, Albert
puts waxed paper over them before gluing up his projects. He
still uses his old scroll saw, having replaced one belt, one pulley,
one brass bushing, upper arm and motor starter switch.
Share Your Latest Work! Send a photo along with 100 words about you and your piece.
Please note that a slide or a print must be made from conventional film. Color copies of digital
files are not acceptable. Include your hometown, the name of the pattern maker (if not
yourself) and a list of woods and materials used. Send submissions to Bragging Page, Scroll
Saw Workshop, 1970 Broad St., East Petersburg, PA 17520. Digital files with .JPG extensions
are not acceptable for print publication.
I
n this article, our third installment of beginner adhesive or glue stick
patterns, we’re focusing on cutting curves. This
exercise is one of 25 in a terrific beginner book from
Fox Chapel, Scroll Saw Workbook. Step 3: Turn the saw on, relax and have fun.
Photocopy at 100%
Puzzle
By Jim Sweet
TIPTIPTIPTIPTIPTIP
Consider Placement of Blade Entry Holes
When drilling blade entry holes, it is best to place them at a
point or corner. If that is not possible, place entry holes as close
as possible to your cutting line and not in the center of the waste
B
oth young and old anglers like this puzzle and cast area. You will save both time and wear and tear on your equip-
their eyes toward it at shows. It’s from my ment if you place those entry holes close to your cutting line.
Woodimal series of puzzles featuring the image of
an animal made from the letters that spell its name. To
Step 2: Photocopy the patterns found on the pull-out
use this pattern effectively, you can enlarge or reduce the
pattern section. Spray the back of the patterns with
size of the patterns by making photocopies to fit the size
temporary bond spray adhesive and attach the patterns
of the wood you choose.
to the wood. Do not spray the wood! (The patterns for
Sometimes, it is difficult to match pieces of a puzzle,
the wave and base are on the pull-out pattern section.)
so it is best to make the trout and the waves from one
If only one puzzle is being made, an alternate method
piece of wood. Doing so will help to ensure that the tail
is to transfer the pattern to the workpiece by using
of the trout will fit properly into the waves.
carbon paper and a stylus.
Step 1: You will need to ensure uniform thickness after
Step 3: Install a #5 skip tooth blade. Using a square,
the puzzle has been sawn out. To do this, before sawing,
make sure your blade is at a 90-degree angle to the saw
either plane both sides or sand them with 150-grit
table and ensure that the tension of your blade is set
sandpaper. If you sand each piece after sawing, you’ll
properly before cutting the outline of your trout and
wind up with pieces that are of unequal thickness.
waves. Improper setting will result in cutting at an angle,
and your puzzle will not come apart correctly. Feed your
MATERIALS & TOOLS work directly into the blade. If you push from the right
Materials: Tools: or left, you will create an angle cut and, again, your
• 7⁄8" x 141⁄4" x 8" hardwood of • #5 skip tooth blade
choice (puzzle and waves) puzzle will not slip apart easily.
• Drill press with #60, 1⁄8"-
• 3⁄4" x 16" x 2" hardwood of and 3⁄16"-diameter bits
choice (base) Step 4: For the inside cuts, create the blade entry holes
• Square
• Sandpaper, 150 and 180 grits with the 1⁄8"-diameter drill
• Hand sander or belt sander
• Temporary bond spray adhesive Patterns for
• Router with 1⁄4" round-over bit. Thread a #5 blade
• 3⁄16" dowel (optional) bit or ogee router bit Trout Puzzle on the
• Minwax Golden Oak (optional) through the holes and
PATTERN PULLOUT
make your inside cuts.
Step 5: Add the detail lines around the mouth, eye and TIPTIPTIPTIPTIPTIP
gill area. Using a drill and a #60 bit, make the blade entry
holes. Using the #5 blade, cut the lines. Simplify Pattern Removal
One of my customers copies his patterns onto full-page labels,
peels the labels from their backings and applies them to his
Step 6: Using the ⁄8"-diameter bit, drill the eyehole.
1
wood. He says it makes pattern removal from a completed
project easier.
Step 7: Remove the pattern and lightly sand the
workpiece with 180-grit or finer sandpaper to remove
any adhesive residue. Step 10: Stain the puzzle with the color of your choice.
I prefer Minwax Golden Oak to complement the oak.
Step 8: To remove sharp edges from the 2"-wide base, Dip the pieces into the stain you have selected, remove
use a 1⁄4" round-over bit or ogee router bit. If you don’t and place them onto an old piece of newspaper, and
have a router, you can simply soften the edges with a allow them to dry. Before the pieces are completely dry,
sander. wipe each one with a paper towel or a rag to remove
excess stain and drip marks. Wait until the pieces are
Step 9: (Optional) For added stability, attach the puzzle completely dry before assembling the puzzle.
to the base with a 3⁄16"-diameter dowel. Drill a hole that
closely matches the size of the dowel you will place into
the bottom of the waves. Make a corresponding hole in
the base.
About the Author
Jim Sweet took up woodcrafts when he retired
in 1989 from a 40-year career in the aerospace
industry. He and his wife, Lois, worked the craft
show circuit for many years before deciding to
concentrate on
designing and selling
patterns. His most
recent article for
Scroll Saw Workshop was “Stalking
Panther Puzzle” Holiday 2002 (Issue #9),
and he was profiled in Fall 2001 (Issue
#4), in which he also provided a pattern
and instructions for making a bass
Woodimal. You can contact Jim by phone
at 417-272-8423 or via email at
sweetcreations@tri-lakes.net.
Octagonal
Jewelry
Boxes
Turn Contrasting Scrap
Wood Into Easy-to-Make,
Attractive Containers
T
his simple but unique-looking Step 1 • Old newspaper
box makes a great gift on its • Masking tape
own merits or it can become a • Clear packaging tape
• Clear finish of choice
classy container for that piece of
• 8 1⁄2" x 11" poster board (optional)
jewelry your beloved has hinted • 8 1⁄2" x 11" felt or velvet (optional)
about receiving. • Sandpaper, 80 and 220 grits
To save money on wood, you can
make this box using surfaced poplar Tools:
and oak in dimensions and small • Olson #408 Thick Wood blade, 7 teeth
per inch (TPI) or equivalent #12 blade
quantities available in your local Step 1: Prepare the box piece of • #5 reverse tooth blade
home improvement warehouse. You wood. Use your scroll saw and a #5 • Drill with 1⁄16"-diameter twist bit and
can enhance the look of the box by reverse tooth blade to cut your 3⁄4" 1
⁄8"-diameter or larger diameter twist bit
lining the compartments, using walnut box piece of wood in half, • 2 each, screw-type bar clamps with
6" capacity
woodworker’s glue, felt and poster yielding two pieces that measure • 4 each, 1" x 6" x 1" scrap wood
board, all easy to find at craft stores. 5 1⁄2" x 5 1⁄2". Before gluing these two clamping blocks
Try experimenting with different pieces together, use 220-grit • Scissors
wood species or turn your scrap sandpaper to take off any wood • Old flat blade screwdriver
wood into this attractive, easy-to- fuzzies that will prevent the required
make project. wood-to-wood contact. Before
gluing, place a single sheet of the box before placing your 1⁄4" x Step 5
newspaper on your clamps to 5 1⁄2" x 5 1⁄2" box bottom on the glued
protect the clamps and work surface surface. Then apply one piece of
from any excess glue that squeezes masking tape to each side of the box
out. Spread a thin layer of to secure the box bottom to the box.
woodworker’s glue on both pieces Using two screw-type bar clamps
and clamp together with the four, and four scrap wood clamping
scrap wood clamping blocks. blocks, clamp the box for about ten
Only tighten the screw clamps minutes. Remove the clamps and
with the force generated by your clean out the squeezed-out glue
thumb and two fingers. It is critical from the bottom of the three
that you do not screw the clamps so compartments with an old flat blade
tight all of the glue is forced from the screwdriver. Reclamp the box with
glue joint. You do not need to wipe your clamping blocks and leave Step 5: Put the lid liner on the
whatever glue is squeezed out. Leave overnight to dry. You can use 80-grit glued surface. Spread a thin layer of
the two pieces clamped overnight sandpaper to remove the glue from woodworker’s glue on the top of the
to dry. the screwdriver. box, being careful not to get any
glue on the three dividers. Place the
Step 2 Step 4 1
⁄4" x 5 1⁄2" x 51⁄2" lid liner on the glued
surface. Clamp the box with the
clamping blocks for ten minutes.
Remove the clamps, clean any glue
that squeezed out and reclamp the
box overnight.
Step 6
Step 8
Design Your Own Box Step 7: Cut out the outside lid Step 8: Center the lid liner on the
The accompanying illustration profile. Spray the back of the lid. Apply a very thin layer of
shows how this project pattern lid pattern using temporary bond woodworker’s glue to one side of the
was designed and also indicates spray adhesive, and apply the round lid liner and center the lid
how to draw three other designs. pattern to the 1⁄2" x 5 1⁄2" x 5 1⁄2" lid. liner on the lid. Clamp the lid liner
You will only need a protractor, Cover the surface with clear pack- to the lid with clamping blocks, and
compass with lead point, sharp aging tape. Cut out the outside lid use a screwdriver to remove glue
pencil and paper to make your profile with a #5 blade. Using 220- squeezed out. Allow the clamped
own designs. grit sandpaper, sand the fuzzies from piece to dry overnight.
Quadrant A shows an eight- the lid and round lid liner.
sided box design based on each
side equaling 45 degrees. Set the Photocopy at 100%
compass width equal to the
Note to professional copying services.
distance where the angle meets You may make up to ten copies of
the outer circle and draw an arc this pattern for the personal use
of the buyer of this magazine.
outside the outer circle. Draw
another arc from the other point.
Move the compass to the point Box
where the two arcs cross, then
draw the arc that is the outside
profile of your box.
Quadrant B shows a 16-sided
box design based on each side
equaling 22 1⁄2 degrees. Quadrant
C shows a 12-sided box design
based on each side equaling 30
degrees. Quadrant D shows a
8-sided box design based on
15- and 30-degree divisions,
with the outside box profile
arcs drawn from the inner
circle point.
Make Your
Child’s Room a
Magical Place
I
t all started in high school, when I read The Hobbit Step 2: Photocopy and attach the patterns. The
for the first time. Lately, my husband and I have been provided nameplate pattern allows room for short
happily enchanted with the Harry Potter books as names. For a long name—Jonathan, for example—make
well. Now that our daughter is old enough to read these two copies of the pattern and cut out the section
books by herself, we are even more obsessed with all between the dotted lines from one of the copies. Set this
things magical. section aside. Cut the second copy of the pattern at the
Maybe you know a young wizard who would like a second dotted line. Insert the section you cut from the
bit of personalized room décor to reflect a similar magic first copy into the second copy of the pattern. Position
craze. For starters, why not a nameplate and switch the insert to the right of the dotted line on the second
plate? After all, as any fantasy fan knows, names and pattern. You may need to make slight adjustments to the
light are magical things. cutting lines. Use temporary adhesive to attach the
pattern to your wood.
Step 1: Check door measurements. Before cutting your
wood, check the panel measurements of the door you
plan to mount the nameplate on to make sure the
nameplate will fit. Feel free, of course, to enlarge or
reduce the pattern as need be.
Similarly, for the switch plate, check to make sure the
pattern will fit the switch you plan to cover with it.
Adjust the location of the mounting holes if necessary.
Nameplate
Do not cut the red
lines. These lines are
reference lines for
pattern extension.
Photocopy at 100%
Tools:
• #2 reverse tooth or #2 spiral blades
• Drill with 1⁄16"-diameter and 1⁄8"-diameter
bits
• Palm sander
• Woodburning tool
Switchplate
Photocopy at 100%
Step 3: Drill the blade entry holes and cut. Using the
1 Switchplate
⁄16"-diameter bit, drill all blade entry holes as indicated If you don’t want to use a woodburning tool, you can
on the pattern. On both patterns, drill your entry holes buy self-stick vinyl letters at art or craft stores, or you
and work the interior cuts first with the #2 reverse tooth could use paint as desired.
blade. Drill the mounting holes with the 1⁄8"-diameter
bit, and then cut the outside pattern lines, again Step 6: Add the finish. Before you finish your projects,
using the #2 blade. Make the outside cuts in one you may want to countersink the holes for the screws.
continuous cut. Then stain your pieces, if you like. A spray or rub-on
varnish would work nicely to complete the finish. If the
Step 4: Sand your pieces to remove burrs. Use 150-grit finish gets in the mounting holes, you may have to clean
sandpaper to sand both sides of the piece. them out with a needle file, just so your mounting
screws don’t get “gunked up.”
Step 5: Personalize the door plaque. Before you stain
and finish your nameplate, use a woodburning tool to
About the Author
draw the name onto the plate. I have suggested an Paula Wendland is a crafts designer, and artist and
informal, freehand lettering style to suggest a “lightning an illustrator of children’s books. Her last article for
bolt” effect. If you are not comfortable with drawing Scroll Saw Workshop gave instructions for making a
your own letters, consider using a computer with a word faux patina decoration for the garden. “St. Francis
processor to create your own lettering template. Open a Garden Stake” published in Spring 2004 (Issue
#14). Her Nighthawk Studio can be reached via email,
document, select your font and font size, then type and
pzwend@comcast.net.
print your template. Then trace the template onto the
nameplate using the Saral carbon paper.
C
apture the majesty of the cut your wood blank to size, transfer • 11" x 14" frame (or custom frame)
grizzly bear in this large the pattern onto the wood. • 2" clear packaging tape
portrait project. If you are Because I find it distracting when • Painter’s tape
• Temporary bond spray adhesive
new to making portraits on your the pattern lifts up or tears,
• Clear coat finish spray
scroll saw, use this walk-through to especially on tight cuts, I cover the • Black felt or dark background material
help you learn some of the basic entire wood cutting surface with
techniques. Those not-so-new to painter’s tape. This tip is a great one Tools:
portrait making will take away not that I got from listening to other • #2/0 spiral blade, #2 reverse standard
or blade of choice.
only a bear portrait to keep or to scrollers. Painter’s tape is commonly
• Drill with #61 bit or a bit that is smaller
give, but also tips for making their blue in color and leaves little to no than the cutout areas
next projects. residue when it is removed. Spray • Palm sander (optional)
the back of your pattern and the • Hot-glue gun
Step 1: Prepping and adhering the surface of the painter’s tape with a • Rotary tool with mini drum sander bit
pattern. Select your project size and heavy coat of temporary bond spray
photocopy the pattern accordingly. adhesive. Place the pattern on the
(The full-size pattern is on the pull- top of the painter’s tape right away blade entry holes. A larger-than-
out pattern section.) Once you have for a good solid bond. Once you’ve normal blade entry hole will make
chosen the size of your project and finished cutting, the painter’s tape blade changes easier, especially
will easily peel off. If I’m stack when you are steadying your project
TIPTIPTIPTIPTIPTIP cutting, I simply place a few pieces with one hand.
of wood blanks under the top piece
Sizing It Up
and tape the surface of the cutting Step 3: Cutting the pattern. Begin
The pattern sizes I recommend for this
project are 11" x 14" and 16" x 20". area with 2" clear packaging tape. I to cut out the pattern using a #2/0
When you are choosing the size of your wrap about 2" around the backside. spiral blade, a #2 reverse standard
project, remember that the depth of your The packaging tape sticks well and blade or your blade of choice. Cut
scroll saw’s throat (distance from the will hold a stack together. It also out each area, starting from the
blade to the back inside arm edge) will helps to lubricate the blade while center of the pattern and working
determine the size of the pattern and you’re cutting. out to the four edges of the pattern.
wood that you can accommodate. After each cut, move to the piece
I choose 1⁄4" or 1⁄8" wood because these Step 2: Making blade entry holes. closest to the one you just cut out.
thicknesses fit best in a frame. Frames Next drill your blade entry holes in If you are cutting a larger piece,
only have so much room for the glass, each cut-out section of the pattern such as 16" x 20", it helps to stack
the wood and a backer. If the wood size cut two pieces at once for more
using a #61 bit.
is thicker than 1⁄4", it will not fit the
To ease frustration, choose as support, especially if you are using
frame rabbet or groove.
large a bit as you can for drilling plywood. Stack cutting not only
Patterns for
Grizzly Bear Portrait on the
PATTERN PULLOUT
irdfeeder
Add a Touch of
Elegance to Your Yard
with This Spectacular
30"-high Feeder
E
legant, inexpensive and easy to make. Could there Step 2 Step 2: Cutting the
be features more appealing in a scrolled project? plywood. Use a
The ivy leaf scrollwork and the all-white painted table saw to cut the
finish are reminiscent of a 19th-century Victorian home. 4' x 8' sheet into
Yet it’s made from 1⁄2"-thick exterior plywood so the manageable pieces.
project is inexpensive to make. Begin by ripping a
For simplicity of construction, the roof pieces do not 12" x 8' long strip
require bevels. When the roof pieces are assembled, the to make the four
gaps where the roof boards meet are covered with wood Side and the four
dowels. The last component to add to the feeder is the Bottom Trim
tray. It’s important to note that the tray diameter cannot pieces. Note that
be larger than the 101⁄2"-diameter access hole in the 45-degree miters
sidepieces. are cut on the
Be the envy of your neighborhood when you hang opposite sides of each of these pieces. I prefer to cut the
this beauty for all to see. miters after I rip the 12"-wide piece of plywood. The
reason is that the 4' x 8' plywood sheet is cumbersome to
Step 1: Gather the materials. Except for the 3"-diameter handle even if you have a helper. Although you could set
wood ball finial at the top of the project, all parts are cut your saw blade to 45-degrees and then cut the 12"-wide
from 1⁄2" exterior plywood. Purchase a 4' x 8' sheet. strip, I feel this would make it even more challenging to
Finding a sheet that is not “curled” is sometimes saw it.
difficult. MDO (Medium Density Overlay) works quite
Editor’s Note: Due to the overall size of the birdfeeder, the
well. This plywood has resin-impregnated paper on one
Side and Bottom pieces are at 100% on the pull-out pattern
or both sides, which makes it extremely smooth. See TIP
section. Roof Support #2 also appears on the pull-out, but at
box for sources of MDO.
50% reduction. All other patterns are included with the
article at a 50% reduction in size.
Sailchimes
Full pattern for
Kitty Cat Sailchimes on the
PATTERN PULLOUT
C
ombine chimes, wood, fabric and the
image of a cat, and the result is my Kitty
Cat Sailchimes, a popular sale item at
shows. This cat with a fabric sail moves in the
breeze better than solid wood and attracts buyers
who like a softer look. Learning how to combine
wood with fabric to create a distinctive look will
not only add to your skills but also earn you more
money from sales at shows and your website.
Because it is a different technique, follow the
instructions before trying to vary them. Do not
cut the wood band until you are sure you can
install the fabric. This procedure is necessary
because the hardwood will move when cut and
the band may not fit once it absorbs or loses
moisture.
Step 6: Cut the fabric area. For the fabric area, use the
MATERIALS & TOOLS #5 reverse skip tooth blade, first cutting the line closest
Materials: to the hole in one continuous cut. Leave the wood in the
• 1 piece, 1⁄2" x 9" x 5" tightly grained walnut, mahogany or space, keep a finger on it, and in one continuous cut, cut
poplar
• Sandpaper, 150 and 220 grit
diagonally downward to the second line. Note that any
• 1 piece, 7" x 5" thin polyester fabric in a color that suits your blade smaller than #5 will not leave enough kerf, or
wood width from cutting for the fabric, and any blade larger
• Wooden toothpicks than #7 will leave too much kerf in the diagonal area.
• 1 piece, 3⁄4"-long screw eye
The diagonal cut through the band provides the
• Size 3 black barrel swivel (among fishing supplies)
• 12" of 20-lb. test fly line backing (among fishing supplies)
flexibility needed during gluing but, if the kerf is too
• 2 pieces, 1⁄4"-diameter aluminum chime rods 4 3⁄4" long (from a large, the diagonal might not meet. If you went off the
craft store) line making the first cut, simply maintain the distance
• Woodworker’s glue between the two lines. You are going to use the thin
• Inexpensive paintbrush
wood band, so be careful as you remove the assembly
• Temporary bond spray adhesive
• Wipe-on polyurethane or finish of your choice
from the saw as you finish. Keep the inner cutaway piece
• Masking tape because it is critical to future steps.
Step 10
Design Your Own Sailchimes
You can take your favorite design and easily turn it
into Sailchimes. Even the most complex fret design
or an intarsia pattern will work if you can draw a
perimeter shape for a design that depends on fret
cuts to represent an object. Follow these five steps
to customize your sailchimes.
the Land
By Jim Stirling
Down
Children enjoy playing with Hoppy the Kangaroo whether it
is painted or not. A finish for your kangaroo is an optional
step if you use medium-density fiberboard. Donna Lloyd
painted the version shown here.
I
f you want to work with a child
to make a unique and MATERIALS & TOOLS
inexpensive toy or surprise a The kangaroo can be made easily.
Materials:
youngster with a gift, have a go at I made this kangaroo from a piece of • 1 piece, 3⁄4" x 12" x 6" wood of choice
Hoppy the Kangaroo. Once you medium-density fiberboard (MDF) (main body)
complete this project, the kangaroo, during my visit to Scroll Saw • 2 pieces, 3⁄4" x 4" x 3" wood (back legs)
• Or one piece big enough to
powered by gravity, can hop down a Workshop. The MDF is hard and accommodate the body and two leg
board. He first rocks onto his front does not chip out. It is excellent for patterns
legs so that his back legs slide making toys. • 2 pieces, 1⁄4"-diameter dowel 2" long
forward. Then his body moves • Temporary bond spray adhesive
• Pencil
forward, his legs go back and he Step 1: Make a copy of the pattern • Sandpaper, 100 grit
rocks onto his front legs again. And that includes the body, head, tail and • Nail
so he goes, hopping down the slope. front feet and a copy of the patterns
Tools:
• Scissors
• #9 reverse tooth blades
• Drill with 1⁄8"-, 1⁄4"- and 3⁄8"-diameter bits
• Hammer
Step 3: Nestle the three pattern Step 6: Drill two holes, using a 3⁄8"- Step 12
pieces beside each other on the diameter bit on the inside of each of
wood to make the most economical the back legs as shown on the
use of the wood. Adhere the patterns pattern. Drill the holes 1⁄2" deep.
to the wood using temporary bond Using the same bit, drill a hole right
spray adhesive. through the body, in the belly
Alternate: A template can be region, as marked on the pattern.
made to ease replication of the toy. Using a 1⁄8"-diameter bit, make eyes
You can glue a pattern of the body on both sides of the head.
and one back leg onto thin plywood.
Cut the pieces out and drill 1⁄8"- Step 7
diameter holes to mark eyes and
places to be drilled. The templates
can be placed directly onto the wood
and traced around with a pencil.
Remember to turn the back leg piece
over to get both left and right legs. A bottom of the belly so the legs can
small nail can be used to mark the swing evenly without hitting the
places to be drilled. Step 7: Using the scroll saw, cut two belly. Leave about 1⁄8" of play
1
⁄4"-diameter dowels, each 2" long. between the body and the legs.
Step 4: Cut the two back legs and The dowels will be used to connect Now, it’s time for the kangaroo to
feet pieces first, using a #9 reverse the back legs to the body, enabling use his powerful back legs. Find a
tooth blade. those legs to move together. board about 3' long. You will need a
fairly rough surface on the board to
Step 5: Using the #9 reverse tooth Step 8: Once the pieces are cut and provide friction so that the kangaroo
blade, cut the main piece. To ensure the holes are drilled, sand lightly doesn’t slide. Put the plank on an
that the kangaroo will be able to around all of the edges with 100-grit angle, place the kangaroo on the
move, be especially accurate cutting sandpaper. top, pull his tail back and watch
on the belly between the back legs him go!
and on the bottom of the feet. If a Step 9: This is an optional step Adjust the angle of the plank
child is cutting the toy, it doesn’t regarding a finish for your kangaroo. until the kangaroo is rocking
really matter for the function of the I did not paint Hoppy but you can. forward and backward most
toy if he or she strays off the line For example, you can use brown efficiently. The optimum angle for
around the body as long as the other paint for a Big Red Kangaroo or gray each kangaroo varies, but a kid will
cutting mentioned in this step is paint for an Eastern Gray Kangaroo. have no trouble finding it through
accurate. experimentation.
Step 10: To assemble, first hammer
the dowels into the top and bottom
FURTHER READING of one leg.
About the Author
Scroll Saw Castles Step 11: Holding the back leg Australian-born Jim Stirling
By Jim Stirling containing the two dowels, insert is known for his techniques
Create unique, collapsible the top dowel through the hole in to scroll collapsible castles
castles with this unique scroll and relief scenes. He lives
saw relief technique. Includes
the kangaroo’s body. At the same in Norway, on “Stirling
cutting diagrams for eight time, the bottom dowel in the leg Station,” with his wife,
projects. should fit beneath the body so the Edel, and their two children. You are
$12.95 plus $3.50 S&H (parcel post)
leg can swing. welcome to visit him in beautiful Norway
Available from:
or on his website, www.stirling.no.
Fox Chapel Publishing A Fox Chapel Publishing book author, Jim
Step 12: Next, dry-fit the other leg
1970 Broad St., East Petersburg, PA 17520 authored his first article for Scroll Saw
Phone: 800-457-9112 FAX: 888-369-2885 onto the two exposed dowels on the Workshop in Spring 2004 (Issue #14). He
www.FoxChapelPublishing.com
other side of the body. Sometimes, presented the “World’s Most Difficult Four-
Or check your local supply store.
you have to trim a little wood off the Piece Puzzle.”
.
HORSE
LOVER’S
PHOTO FRAME
By Terry Calway
FRAMED ROSE
PORTRAIT
By Marvin Shelley,
Design by Linda Lawson
Photocopy at 100%
Golf Bag
Unique 2-in-1
Image Makes a
Great Gift for Your
Favorite Golfer
W
hile many compound cut
projects feature only one
design, this compound cut
project has a unique twist—each side
has a different design. From one angle,
you see a golf tee. Turn the piece 90
degrees, and you then see a golf bag. A
nice project that’s quick and easy to
complete, this finished piece makes a Painted by Donna Lloyd
Step 10: Finish the piece with tung oil, clear spray or the
tole paints of your choice.
Photocopy
at 100%
FURTHER READING
128 Compound Scroll Saw Patterns
By Sam Keener
Includes instructions for unique “two-in-one”
cutting techniques & 128 distinct, ready-to-use
patterns.
$14.95 plus $3.50 S & H (parcel post)
Please mention
code ADSW015
when ordering.
For Less
than $20
in Materials,
Create This
Beautiful
Fan-style Light for
Your Home
Patterns for Milkweed Pods
Wall Sconce on the
A
dd a unique decorative PATTERN PULLOUT
touch to your home with
this easy-to-make fretwork
wall sconce. The attractive milkweed pods
motif fits in with most decors. And best of all, Step 3
it costs under $20!
Step 4
MATERIALS & TOOLS
Materials:
• 1⁄4" x 11" x 20" walnut • Optional:
• 2 each, 1⁄2" eyehooks Tinted Plexiglas or glass
• 20" medium-duty wire Hot glue
• Danish Oil 1
⁄4" x 20"-long dowel
• Lightweight cotton fabric such
as muslin 3⁄4" x 20" Tools:
• Woodworker’s glue • #5 Precision Ground Tooth
• Sandpaper, assorted grits (PGT) blade
• Wall sconce light fixture • Drill with a 1⁄8"- to 1⁄4"-diameter
• Temporary bond spray bit
adhesive • Belt sander
edge you just followed, turn the board around and again
Step 4: Making the fabric joint. Cut two strips of cut at the 30-degree angle along the line. Ease all three
lightweight cotton cloth 3⁄4" wide x 10" long. Lay the edges. (“Ease” is a woodworking term that means to
sidepieces on either side of the centerpiece. If the ends round over.)
don’t match up perfectly, make the necessary Making perfectly straight cuts can be tricky on a
adjustments until they do so. Apply a thin but thorough scroll saw. After all, the thin blade is designed for twists,
layer of glue on the fabric and the wood. You want the turns and tight cuts. Be prepared to make a few attempts
fabric to adhere to the wood; you don’t want the wood until you get it right. It does not have to be perfect. Its
edges to stick to each other. A thin strip of wax paper only purpose is maintaining the angle and covering up
slipped between the edges will prevent this. Center the the seam. Also, the object is to highlight where the two
fabric over the joint. To ensure that the fabric is edges meet, not disguise it. Using a belt sander to
saturated with glue, apply another thin layer of glue on straighten up the edges is an option. Cutting the wedge
top of the fabric. Trim any excess fabric and let dry. a few inches longer gives you a handhold. You should
Note: The fabric joint allows for maximum flexibility have two 10" long triangles.
in getting an acceptable angle.
Step 6: Easing the edges. Before gluing a dowel or
Step 5: Finishing the joint. There are two ways you can wedge in place, ease the inside edges of each sidepiece
finish the joint with either the dowel method or the and each edge of the centerpiece. Since the cuts were
wedge method. The dowel method is the easiest. Glue a made on the scroll saw, slight imperfections are bound to
1
⁄4"-diameter dowel along the joint. If the sconce is made occur. If you ease the edges, these slight imperfections
of oak, you will have no problem finding dowels to are much less noticeable. To ease the edge, sand gently
match. I was unable to find walnut dowels so I made a with 150-grit sandpaper until the edge is very slightly
wedge to finish and stabilize the joint. rounded.
Step 5a Step 7
Step 5a: The joint made with the wedge method. Cut
two strips of wood, each 1⁄4" wide x 10" long with your
table tilted at 30 degrees to the right. Begin by cutting Step 7: Setting the angles. Because light fixtures vary in
along the outermost edge. Now, mark a line 1⁄4" from the depth, you’ll need to calculate angles based on your
model. You’ll also want to make sure that the angles on TIPTIPTIPTIPTIPTIP
both sides are identical.
Prop the sconce up to the desired height, and Oily Rags are Dangerous!
Proper disposal of oil-soaked rags is very important due to the
measure the distance from your workbench to the edge
fact that they can spontaneously combust. Rags should be
of the sconce at each sidepiece joint to ensure the
disposed of by drenching in water and storing in a lidded can
measurement is the same. For my sconce, 51⁄2" gives just until they can be put out with the garbage collection.
enough clearance. The important thing is to have at least
3
⁄4" clearance between the sconce and the bulb.
entire project with the oil for 30 minutes. Reapply and
Step 8 let the oil absorb into the wood for another 15 minutes.
Wipe off all excess oil that remains. Let dry in a warm
and dry place for at least 24 hours. If you want a bit of
sheen, spray with a satin finish.
Step 9
Tool Clock
Intarsia
A Fun Way to Tell the
World You’re a
Woodworker
E
very woodworker should have a handmade clock MATERIALS & TOOLS
that reflects his or her passion for creating beautiful
Materials:
art from wood. I hope this design, which includes • 3⁄4" x 10" x 4" aspen, holly or pine • Satin finish of choice
some tools commonly found in a workshop, fits the bill. • 3⁄4" x 6" x 6" black walnut • Sandpaper, 120 and
This project can be a bit challenging; it has 54 • 3⁄4" x 6" x 6" light western red cedar 220 grits
• 3⁄4" x 8" x 6" medium western red • Hanger of choice
pieces—which isn’t a lot—but many of the pieces are
cedar • Clock movement and
small. The number of open spaces also makes for a bit of • 3⁄4" x 4" x 2" medium dark western numbers of choice
a challenge. The following steps will walk you through red cedar
the project. I will share my intarsia technique; feel free to • 3⁄4" x 6" x 6" dark western red cedar Tools:
do it your own way. I’ve also listed my suggestions for • 3⁄4" x 6" x 6" gray boards of • #7 double tooth or skip
mahogany, pine or spruce tooth blade or #5
wood choice, but use whatever species you like or the • 3⁄4" x 4" x 4" pau amarillo hook tooth blade
scraps you have on hand. • 3⁄4" x 10" x 3" cherry • Small pneumatic drum
sander with 80, 120
• 3⁄4" x 10" x 3" ash
and 220 grit
Step 1: Select your woods. The woods you choose will • 3⁄4" x 8" x 2" zebrawood sandpaper
have a real impact on how your project will finally look, • 3⁄4" x 6" x 6" paduak or bloodwood • Pencil
• 1 piece 1⁄8" x 2" x 10" plywood for • Clamps of choice
so be creative. I started with 3⁄4" wood, F4S, or finished raising pieces
• Bandsaw (optional)
four-sided stock. F4S comes already smooth on all four • 1⁄4" x 16" x 9" Baltic birch plywood or
sides and is therefore a bit more expensive than wood of choice (backer board)
unfinished stock. • White or yellow carpenter’s glue
Clock
T
eeming with dice, card suits Step 2: Cut the exterior shape of the • 1 piece, 1⁄8" x 1" x 2" green solid-colored
and dollar signs, the Gambler’s Back using the #3 double tooth Plexiglas (green dice)
Clock is sure to please fans of blade. Save the corner pieces to • 1 piece, 1⁄8" x 11⁄4" x 2" black solid-
colored Plexiglas (spade and club)
James Garner’s Bret Maverick or just make the white dice. • 1 piece, 1⁄8" x 11⁄2" x 3" green solid-
card and dice game buffs. Scrolled colored Plexiglas (dollar sign)
from different-colored Plexiglas, the Step 3: Use a 1⁄8"-diameter bit to drill • 2"-diameter clock insert
• Super Glue
clock is easy to make and requires the dots on the dice. Drill all the way
• Rubber cement or temporary bond spray
no painting. Once you’ve completed through the Plexiglas. Use both the adhesive
the clock, simply hang it in a game 1
⁄16"-diameter bit and the 1⁄8"-diameter • Sawtooth hanger or hanger of your
or recreation room for a fun and bit to drill blade entry holes on the choice
colorful decoration. dollar sign. Then cut out all of the
Tools:
shapes to be placed on the Back. • #3 double tooth blade (23 teeth per inch)
Step 1: Attach the pattern for the • Drill with 1⁄16"- and 1⁄8"-diameter bits
Back to the white Plexiglas with Step 4: Remove all of the protective • Shop knife or sandpaper, 100 grit
rubber cement or temporary bond covering from the fronts and backs • Clamps (as needed)
spray adhesive. Then, using a drill of all pieces. Use a shop knife or • 113⁄16"-diameter Forstner bit
with a 113⁄16"-diameter Forstner bit, 100-grit sandpaper to remove any
drill the hole for the clock insert. burrs from the edges.
Photocopy at 100%
Step 5: Using Super Glue, adhere all Drilling and Cutting Plexiglas
of the pieces in place. Use the outer Drilling through Plexiglas can pose a
edge of the Back, in relation to the problem because the heat generated by
center, to align each piece. the drilling can melt the plastic. To
reduce heat, try drilling slowly and back Directory
Step 6: Install the 2"-diameter clock the bit out frequently. Comments & Suggestions
Cutting Plexiglas can also be tricky Write to the above address or email us at
insert of your choice. Gretchen@foxchapelpublishing.com
because of the heat. To reduce the
amount of heat generated, try running
Step 7: Attach a sawtooth hanger or
your saw at a lower speed. I run mine at Editorial
the hanger of your choice, and your For editorial information, call Cathy Hart at
about 850 strokes per minute, but you’ll
clock is ready for display. want to experiment to find the speed 717-560-4703, write to the above address, or
email at Cathy@foxchapelpublishing.com
that’s best for you. You’ll also want to
About the have some type of paper or tape on the
Information
Author front and back of the pieces you are To request a catalog of books and magazines,
Steve Greytak cutting to help prevent the Plexiglas from call 1-800-457-9112.
frequently melting while you’re cutting and from
contributes to Scroll fusing itself together after the blade has
Saw Workshop and Events
cut through. To have an event listed in our events section,
often uses Plexiglas
for his projects. He credits his wife, Irma,
If you are cutting one piece of call Gretchen Bacon at 717-560-4703, write to
as his best critic on the choice of colors Plexiglas, 1⁄4" thick or thinner, the the above address, or email at
and design for his pieces. His last article, protective covering that comes on the Gretchen@foxchapelpublishing.com.
“Sweetheart Picture Frame,” was featured Plexiglas should do the trick. However, if
in Spring 2004 (Issue #14). When he’s not you are stack cutting or using Plexiglas Please include dates, location, hours, prizes,
busy scrolling, Steve enjoys playing the thicker than 1⁄4", it may be necessary to admission charges, show content, and contact
accordion, playing golf and spending time use paper or clear packaging tape in names with addresses and phone numbers.
with his four children, ten grandchildren addition to the protective covering.
and five great-grandchildren.
P
eople like dogs, so I’ve designed this
eye-catching portrait of a boxer that has sold
well at shows. I only needed to use a #2/0
reverse tooth blade to create this canine.
Step 8: Insert the portrait into an 11" x 14" frame. “Fine Line FREE
Designs” PATTERN OFFER!
Try 2 from the book at no charge!
Dog Breeds www.scrollsawer.com
MATERIALS & TOOLS By Judy Gale Roberts Click on Patterns and More.
Includes 45
Materials:
different breeds. $16.95
• 1⁄8" x 14" x 11" Baltic birch • Clear coat finish spray
plus $3.50 S&H (parcel post)
plywood • Tack rag
• Sandpaper, 180 and 220 grits Available from:
• 11" x 14" wood frame Tools: Fox Chapel Publishing
• 1 piece, 8" x 10" black felt • #2/0 reverse tooth blade 1970 Broad St., East Petersburg, PA 17520
material for the background • Drill with #60 bit Phone: 800-457-9112 FAX: 888-369-2885
www.FoxChapelPublishing.com
• Temporary bond spray • Tacky Glue
adhesive Or check your local supply store.
Photocopy at 100%
White-tailed
Deer Portrait
Woodburned Detail Gives
This Piece a Rustic Flair
T
ry your hand at woodburning residue. This residue can interfere • Graphite paper
with this scroll-and wood- with the woodburner’s ability to • Rubber cement or temporary bond spray
adhesive (optional)
burn project. Pyrography, or burn, and it can affect the quality of
woodburning, can be as simple or as the adhesion of the lacquer finish. Tools:
complex as you wish to make it. • #5 reverse tooth blade
This combination of different Step 2: Prepare for cutting. With a • Hand drill, power drill or drill press with
a #60 or #62 bit and a 1⁄8"-diameter bit
techniques results in a wonderful drill press or a simple hand drill,
• Woodburner of your choice
conversation piece that is warm and make the blade entry holes using a • Dremel rotary tool with a small sanding
inviting with a rustic flair. It is sure #60 or #62 drill bit for the smaller bit or a small carving knife or X-acto
to bring a few compliments from openings and a 1⁄8"-diameter bit for knife
the eyes are a slightly lighter shade, Heavy coats tend to sag and run. If
Step 4
so do not press hard or go too slowly you do spray too much on one coat,
or the burning will turn out too use fine steel wool to remove any
dark. For the nose, eyes and antlers excess lacquer.
only shading is necessary. Continue
the lines around the edge of the Step 7: Mounting your work. For
body to give the desired 3D effect. the backing, use a dark felt or
(For more tips on woodburning, see similar material or try something
the TIP box.) new. Get a photograph of trees,
woodland or a mountain backdrop
Step 4: Preparation for burning. Step 6: Applying the finish. When from an old magazine or calendar.
Next round off the sawn edges to you spray the lacquer finish, use You could even print out a photo
simulate the rounded portions of the moderately smooth, even passes and from your computer and glue it to
deer using a standard Dremel with a maintain about a 1-foot distance the back using a simple glue stick or
small sanding bit. This process gives from the project. You may have to Elmer’s glue. A unique backdrop
the completed piece a somewhat 3D vary the passes and the distance to enhances your completed piece of
effect. You don’t need to round off get the inside edges of your scrolled art. Attach a piece of cardboard to
the edges of the antlers because they portrait. I recommend a satin finish make the back more rigid.
may be a bit delicate, but you may because I feel it looks more natural,
round them off if you wish. If you do Hairline pattern for woodburning.
but choose the finish you prefer. Use the pattern as a reference for
not have a Dremel tool, you can just Remember to spray light coats and hairline directions. Add more lines
as easily use a small carving knife or let the piece dry between coats. and details as desired.
even an X-acto knife.
Step 5
TIPTIPTIPTIPTIPTIP
Woodburning Basics
Woodburning Hairlines • When you are burning the project, do not hurry; take your time.
Remember that there are not many Especially if you are a beginner at using the burning tool, remember
straight lines in nature, so don’t burn a
that the iron is very hot, and fingers burn better and quicker than
lot of straight lines that go in the same
wood. It sounds so simple, but we all need a little reminding.
direction in a concentrated area. Vary the
length of the stroke and the direction of • Pull the burner rather than push, as if drawing a line from top
the lines. Also vary the angle to create to bottom.
lines. Hair generally flows from front to • Practice on a scrap piece of the same wood used for the project to
back or from top to bottom. familiarize yourself with the characteristics of the wood and the
process, noting grain, how slow or fast to go, and how hard to press
Step 8: Framing. Framing your to get different shades. The slower the speed and the greater the
work is a simple process using a 1⁄4" pressure, the darker the wood burns.
weathered wood. I cut 1" strips from • Vary the angle of the tip, using the side of the wedge tip for shading,
an old weathered 2 x 4 found the tip for detail and the sharp edge for fine lines. Do not force the
outside. Simply nail the strips burner; let it do the work. Remember, relax and take your time.
together with small brads at the edge • If you are a beginner, practice on scrap before you burn your project.
of the board. This homemade frame Wood is a little forgiving, but having a burned line where it isn’t
further promotes the rustic outdoor supposed to be can be hard to cover up or sand away.
appearance and helps your eyes Choosing a Woodburner
focus on the main body of your When I woodburn, I use a
work. Razertip SK Model, which is a
Add a simple hanger and you wonderful tool, but it is
have a unique and beautiful piece of somewhat expensive for the
art. It will be unique because each beginner at around $100. If you
one you complete may be similar in don’t want to spend that much
dimensions and pattern, but each money, you might consider the
line and shade will be different. X-acto model with
interchangeable tips and heat
About the Author
Rick Parsons (left)
shield. This model costs around
is a self-taught artist $25 and is a good beginner’s
who has been burner. Also, Walnut Hollow
woodburning for 15 makes an inexpensive model that is about $10 called the Value
years. His projects Woodburner, model # 5570. It has interchangeable tips and a hollow
often involve
handle for comfort when using.
wildlife, nautical
and Native American themes and have been Whichever model you choose,
sold all over the U.S. and other countries. I recommend that you use a burner
Published numerous times, Rick’s scores of with a wedge tip, as it is the most
scroll saw patterns are available for $10 and versatile tip, allowing you to make
less. For more information about Rick or the fine hairlines and to do the
his patterns, contact him at Rick’s
Pyrography, pyroricky@worldnet.att.net.
shading by varying your angle of use.
Longtime friends Rick and Dave O’Brien It also saves taking extra time to let
brainstormed this White-tailed Deer the burner cool down to change to
Portrait while visiting one evening. At age other tips.
54, Dave was introduced to scroll sawing
while visiting a friend. Since then, he has
Editor’s note: Don’t miss special
created many projects for his home, to give
as gifts and to sell. Aside from working woodburning information in our next The author’s choice of
with wood, Dave is an accomplished poet, issue, Fall 2004 (Issue #16). woodburner is a Razertip SK
and many people across the U.S. have Model, retailing for around $100.
enjoyed his works. For more information
about Dave and his work, visit
www.poetryinfocus.com.
Banks
Help
Little
Savers
MATERIALS & TOOLS
Materials:
• 1 piece, 11⁄4" x 7 1⁄4" x 5 1⁄4" • Assorted small paintbrushes
sugar pine or soft wood of
choice (bank sides)
• 1"-diameter nylon hole plug Make Some for
(optional, available from
• 2 pieces, 1⁄4" x 7 1⁄4" x 5 1⁄4"
sugar pine or soft wood of
Lowe’s Home Improvement
stores, stock numbers
Your Neighborhood Toy Drive
choice (front and back) 139486 and 139483)
• One small scrap of 1⁄4"
thickness (plug, optional)
Tools:
• 1 piece, 1 1⁄2" x 1 1⁄4" x 1 1⁄8"
sugar pine or soft wood of • #5 blade and 5 reverse tooth
choice (ears) blades
• Temporary bond spray • Drill and bit of choice
adhesive • 1"-diameter Forstner bit A “sandwich”
• Wood glue (optional) technique is used to
• Pressure sensitive two-sided • Drill press (optional) create the space for
tape • Drill press vise (optional) the coins. The coin
• 3⁄4" cellophane tape • Square (optional) slot is on the back
• Sandpaper, assorted grits • Ruler for ease of
• Pencil • Assorted small clamps construction.
• Water-based sealer • Scissors
• Craft paints • Sanding block (optional) Step 1
• Clear spray finish of choice • Woodburning tool (optional)
T
his past Christmas, our local Salvation Army
conducted a toy drive for needy children. The local
NBC affiliate in Mobile, Alabama, cosponsored the
event, and featured it on its morning news program. One
gentleman arrived at the station with over 150 wooden
toys he had made. My first thought was, “I want to do
something like that for next Christmas.”
A pig pull toy gave me the idea of making animal
Photocopy the patterns found on the pull-out pattern section.
banks, and “Piggy” is my first creation. I’ve since
Apply the bank sides to the 11⁄4" thick piece of wood. Note
designed several others and will be making lots of them that the bottom part of the pattern is aligned along a
throughout this year for the toy drive. Why not set aside straight edge of the starting stock board. I used sugar pine
some time to help out the less fortunate kids in your but other soft-wood substitutes can be used, such as spruce,
community by making banks for the next toy drive? basswood, white pine and any of the cedars.
Step 2 Step 3
Make the plug hole. This hole will be made with a 1"- Using a small square, make a pencil mark even with the
diameter Forstner bit. For best success, you need to depth line. The square is seen at the top of the photo, with
carefully mark where the hole will be drilled. Begin by the ruler extending from it. Make another line in the middle
placing the block in a drill press vise. Use a square to check of the block in the opposite direction. When completed, you
the alignment of the Fostner bit depth line. should have a plus sign.
If you don’t have a Forstner bit, Step 6 describes an
alternate method for making the coin removal hole.
Step 4 Step 5
With the 1" Forstner bit installed in a drill press, drill the Drill a blade entry hole in the bank sides and, using the #5
hole to the depth line. blade, cut out around the inside line. Cut out around the
outside line and remove the pattern.
Step 6 Step 7
Apply the bank front and back pattern to one piece of the
1
⁄4" stock. Drill a blade entry hole and cut out the coin slot
using a #5 reverse tooth blade. The reverse tooth eliminates
tear out, which reduces sanding time. Step 7: Apply two small pieces of two-sided pressure
For the alternative plug opening, place the supplied 1"- sensitive tape to the reverse side; using too large a piece
diameter circle pattern onto the side pattern. Drill a blade will make it difficult to separate the stacked pieces. Position
entry hole anywhere near the inside of the line and cut out the tape so it is within the area covered by the pattern. You
the circle with the #5 reverse tooth blade before stacking might try double-sided carpet tape. I’ve heard it works, too.
the two pieces. Note: The coin slot and alternative opening Press the piece with the tape to the other 1⁄4" piece of stock.
are cut in one side only!
Step 8 Step 9
Using the #5 reverse tooth blade, cut out around the outside Sand all pieces smooth except the pattern side. Use grits
line. You will be sawing through both thicknesses. After you have around the shop, and if you have one, use a
cutting, separate the two pieces but do not remove the sanding block. The block is easy on the hands, sands flat
pattern. and sands a large surface quickly and efficiently. Apply
wood glue to both sides of the bank sides.
Step 10 Step 11
Step 12 Step 13
Make the ears. Fold the pattern along the dashed line. Cut the left side first. Use spare stock and small quick grips
Apply adhesive to the back and wrap around two sides of to hold the workpiece, making it easy to control while
the wood. cutting.
Step 14 Step 15
Apply the pattern to the scrap piece of 1⁄4" stock. Set the saw
table to a 10-degree angle, tilting the table to the left. Cut
out the plug, sawing in a clockwise direction. If your table
tilts only to the right, reverse the sawing direction. The
wooden plug is inserted into the bottom hole.
The photo to the right is the
Pinch the block slightly and wrap around the entire block alternative plug–a 1"-diameter
with 3⁄4" cellophane tape. Clamp the workpiece with spare nylon plug available from Lowe’s
stock, as you did in Step 13. Cut the right side. Gently Home Improvement stores, stock
remove the ears from the block and glue them to the numbers 139486 and 139483.
assembled bank.
Step 16
FURTHER READING
By Diana Thompson
Custom Wooden Boxes
for the Scroll Saw
Step-by-step directions show you how to create
classical and whimisical boxes using just a scroll saw.
$17.95 plus $3.50 S&H (parcel post)
To complete the pig, you can paint it or you can woodburn
details. In either case, the first step is to transfer the detail Wooden Chess Sets You Can Make
Includes easy-to-cut compound patterns for 9 chess
pattern onto the wood. If you’re going to paint the pig,
sets including instructions for a segmented chess
apply a wood sealer and sand smooth when dry. Apply the
board.
base coat then trace on the detail pattern. $14.95 plus $3.50 S&H (parcel post)
Make a copy of the detail pattern. Cut out the detail
pattern, and with the side of a soft lead pencil, rub over the
detail lines on the reverse side of the pattern. Tape the
Compound Scroll Saw Creations
Make clocks, candlesticks & a wide array of
pattern to the bank and trace over the dashed lines. creatures using compound techniques. Includes 40
Remove the pattern. If lines are too light, darken them a bit & ready-to-use patterns.
with the pencil. $14.95 plus $3.50 S&H (parcel post)
Photocopy at 100%
/4" stock
Plug
1
Create This
Stunning
Cross
in a Day
T
hough it looks like a very complex project,
this Celtic cross is surprisingly easy to make.
It incorporates some overlay work, a special
spray finish, and a little bit of woodburning. The project
is so enjoyable that I recommend making at least two
crosses at the same time, so that you’ll have one to give
and one to keep.
Step 2
Step 3: Saw out the four inside openings. Once the Step 7
cutting is complete, separate the backer and overlay
pieces.
Step 4
Step 5
Photocopy at 100%
FURTHER READING
By Patrick Spielman MATERIALS & TOOLS
Fun & Easy Scroll Saw Materials:
Projects • 1⁄4" x 7" x 10 1⁄2" plywood (backer)
Illustrated instructions for more • 1⁄8" x 7" x 10 1⁄2" plywood (border and
than 100 projects. Includes more overlay pieces)
than 235 decorative & functional • 12 each, 3⁄8"-diameter screw-hole buttons
patterns. 192 color pages. • Textured stone aerosol finish of your
$17.95 plus $3.50 S&H (parcel post) choice
• Temporary bond spray adhesive
Artistic Scroll Saw • Carpenter’s wood glue
Patterns & Projects
By Patrick Spielman, Dan Kihl Tools:
Color photos will inspire you. • #5 skip tooth blade or blade of choice
Patterns are full-size but can be • Drill with 3⁄8"-diameter bit
sized to suit your needs. 144 pages. • Woodburning tool or rotary tool
$14.95 plus $3.50 S&H (parcel post)
And the
Anton Hagen’s By Cathy Hart
Garden Fairy
won the Grand
Prize of the
Scroll-A-Fairy
Contest.
Winner Is...
This “multi-media”
fairy won the
People’s Choice
for Gail Jennings.
The piece was
Runner Up in
staff voting.
W
e threw down the creativity gauntlet when we
published a Lora S. Irish fairy pattern a few
issues back. The Scroll-A-Fairy contest
challenged scrollers to use that pattern as the basis for a winner. He receives a complete library of Fox Chapel
project made from any material and in any style. Publishing’s Lora S. Irish pattern books. The Runner Up
As you’ll see in the next few pages, those who was Gail Jennings; he receives Lora’s Great Book of
decided to compete rose to that challenge. An amazing Dragon Patterns and Great Book of Fairy Patterns.
variety of fairies came into our office, reflecting the The second tier was the online People’s Choice
imagination and skill our readers. Two tiers of voting voting, also won by Gail. Turn to page 68 to learn more
determined winners. First, the staff judged the entries, about how Gail crafted his multi-media fairy, including
and selected Anton Hagen’s fairy as the Grand Prize how he cut the glass.
Honorable Mention
Fairy Napkin/ Letter Holder Untitled Fairy The Exotic Wood Fairy
Mark Weyers, Grand Rapids, MI Frank Batson, Scotts Mills, OR Carl H. Roscher, Buffalo Grove, IL
71⁄2" x 71⁄4", fretwork 101⁄2" x 111⁄4", woodburned 71⁄2" x 61⁄2", intarsia
Giving a Hand
to a Woodland Friend The Garden Fairy Irish’s Fairy In Negative Space
Ronald J. Appel, McKees Rocks, PA
Bea Hackler, Long Beach, CA Dale J. Terrian, Lady Lake, FL
91⁄2" x 12", intarsia style,
91⁄2" x 93⁄4", fretwork, painted 9" x 81⁄2", spiral blade work
painted
Wood + Vellum
+ Stained Glass
Awesome
+ Paper =
Fairy
A Homemade Drip Tank System Saves $50
Editor’s Note: Long before the votes were in for the Scroll-a-Fairy
Contest, I decided to ask Gail Jennings to write about how he
made this multi-media interpretation, with a focus on how he
handled stained glass. Look for more coverage of other entries in
future issues of the magazine.
I
ntrigued by the challenge of the
Scroll-A-Fairy contest, I decided
to expand my scrolling
horizons. Since the rules stated that
the project could be made of any
wood or non-wood material, and by
any technique as long as it
resembled the original pattern, my
creative thoughts jumped into Applied with a tapered hard plastic
overdrive. device, the 7⁄32" adhesive-backed
copper foil added a decorative touch.
Although I had never worked
with stained glass before, the wings beautifully with a #1 reverse tooth
Using a diamond-encrusted blade is
begged to be fashioned of opalescent blade, and even the veining cut
the only way to go for cutting stained
glass so they would shimmer. I glass. These specialty blades,
cleanly. I chose several shades of
found a beautiful sheet of 1⁄8"-thick available from various sources, are lavender scrap booking paper and
glass, and my research told me I available in 100 and 180 grits. frosted vellum paper for the
needed a diamond-encrusted 180- Photo courtesy of Barry Gross of “wisteria-like” flowers. Rounding
bgartforms.com. the petals on the flower patterns
grit scroll saw blade to cut it. I also
needed a drip tank to both cool the on the edge before finishing with slightly from the original, I
blade and keep the glass from copper foil. Centered on the edge cut extras.
cracking as it was cut. The two with the extra folded over the front Arranging the leaves to create a
blades set me back $18.50 apiece; and back, the copper foil created a solid base for the fairy body to be
the $50 price tag on their drip tank finished look. glued to, I pondered the actual fairy
system inspired me to create my Wanting the leaves to look next. Cutting the face, ear, and three
own. (The sidebar explains how you somewhat realistic, I used a pale sections of hair in different
can make one.) green suede-like scrap booking thicknesses of wood and shaping
The saw blade actually cut the paper, and with Elmer’s spray the edges gave dimension to her
glass very smoothly, requiring adhesive attached it permanently to features, and mahogany made pretty
minimal sanding with a diamond file 1
⁄8" Baltic birch. The paper cut red hair. Making separate patterns
Welcome
Full pattern for
Plaque
Welcome Plaque on the
PATTERN PULLOUT
W
hat to give the new homeowner you know • Hanging device • Router and decorative bit
has never been easier. This simple yet elegant
plaque is the perfect gift. The instructions in stability to the lettering. Choose a contrasting color for
this article start with the cutting of the plaque shape. For the backing board for maximum appeal.
a real time saver, just purchase an 8" x 131⁄2" French
Provincial signboard at your local craft shop. Step 2: Adhere the pattern to the wood. Spray the back
Those new to scrolling will find this project easy to of the pattern with temporary bond spray adhesive; be
make, even with a pin-end saw. And the finishing certain to follow the manufacturer’s instructions on the
options are endless: add woodburned detail or paint to spray can.
match any décor. You can even put a contrasting
background behind it. You’re limited only by your Step 3: Make the blade entry holes. Use the 1⁄16"-
imagination. diameter bit to drill the blade entry holes for each letter
and for each heart. If you’re using pin-end blades, you’ll
Step 1: Photocopy the pattern found on the pull-out want to use the 1⁄8"-diameter bit. Insert the blade in the
pattern section. The design of the pattern is such that first hole and cut it out. For better control, beginners
you can enlarge or reduce it to the desired size. Make may want to use the #5 blade.
sure you alter the starting stock, allowing about a 1⁄2"
margin along the outside edge of the pattern. If you Step 4: Add the decorative edge. This step is optional.
choose to use wood thinner than 3⁄8", you’ll want to glue A routed edge always adds a touch of class to plaques
the cutout on some type of backing board to help give and frames.
Step 6
FURTHER READING
By Tom Zieg
Available from:
Fox Chapel Publishing
1970 Broad St., East Petersburg, PA 17520
Phone: 800-457-9112 FAX: 888-369-2885
www.FoxChapelPublishing.com
Or check your local supply store.
Japanese
Mantel Clock
Stylized Herons Adorn
this Original Antique Timepiece
S
crollers looking for their next you’re going to give the clock
challenge often turn to as a gift or sell it at a craft show.
complicated fretwork clocks. With any type of project
The tight turns and sharp corners requiring assembly,
require superior cutting technique it’s important to
and will set your work apart from fit each piece to
other scrollers’. And the payoff is its mating part
tremendous. The compliments one as you go. Be
receives for a nicely done fretwork sure to make
clock are absolutely priceless. all notches just
If you’re looking for a pattern to a little wider
put you through your paces, try your than the thick-
hand at making this mantel clock. ness of the wood.
It’s based on a Russell catalog You want a snug
pattern, which back in 1895 cost a fit but not too
whopping 15 cents. I tried to stay tight of a fit.
true to the original pattern, but I
did modify it slightly to Step 1: Understand the plans.
accommodate a modern quartz Before starting, be sure you
movement with a pendulum. As completely understand how the Assembly View: Materials & Tool list
found on page 79.
with any delicate fretwork, straight- clock goes together. You should also
grained hardwoods such as make any adjustments to the pattern parts from a source other than
mahogany, cherry and maple are prior to making copies of the Wildwood Designs. The patterns
excellent choices. These woods are patterns. These adjustments may be presented on the pull-out pattern
both beautiful and strong. These due to using 1⁄4"-thick wood instead section were designed with
traits are especially important if of the 3⁄16" called for or using clock Wildwood Designs clock parts.
Step 2 pattern and not the wood so the to remove all burrs created by
glue doesn’t get into the grain. drilling the holes, so the wood won’t
To save time, I suggest stack get hung up on the saw table as you
cutting the front and back pieces at make turns and cuts.
the same time. You can also stack
Step 7
cut the two sides. To make the stack,
simply line up the wood and tape
the pieces together using masking
tape around the outside edges of the
wood. Attach the patterns to the top
pieces of the stack of wood. The
front and back pieces are not exactly
the same, so glue the front pattern
Step 2: Cut all pieces of wood to to the stack, and make all the cuts
overall size. Try to make sure all that are in the back piece, except the
corners are 90 degrees. Sand the top notch and the large hole. Separate
and bottom surfaces with fine the pieces and continue cutting the
sandpaper. front piece. On the back piece cut
Step 3 out the notch and large hole.
Step 5
Step 6
scrap wood and glue it up to make a Step 12 Step 13: Apply the finish. Carefully
block approximately 3" x 4" x 6". add a coat of paste wax for a satin
Cut the block into two pieces with smooth finish.
an arc equal to the one shown on the
roof center pattern. Soak a piece of Step 14
wood 1⁄8" thick x 3" x about 6" long
overnight, and put it in between the
block pieces. Clamp for 12 hours.
The second option is to cut four
arcs out of 3⁄4"-thick wood and glue
them together, using the pattern
provided. Sand the pieces. The third
method is to make these from 1⁄16"-
thick plywood. Bend to the shape at
assembly.
Step 9: Cut the roof sidepieces. Saw Step 14: Check out the
the roof sidepieces and the two instructions. Completely check all
notches. Check the fit with front and clock components. Read the
back pieces. instructions that come with the
clock dial face and movement, and
Step 10: Complete all pieces. Finish assemble per the directions.
all pieces and sand with fine-grit
sandpaper. Wipe all pieces to Step 15
remove all dust. At this time, add
stain and finish to suit.
Step 11
Step 12: Assemble the case. Glue Step 15: Put it all together. Attach
the case together, taking care to the clock dial face and movement to
keep everything square. If using the the case using a center shaft nut and
Super “T”, make sure you use it in a washer. Add batteries and you’re
well-ventilated room. done. Enjoy.
Photocopy at 100%
Photocopy at 100%
Additional patterns for
Note to professional copying services. You may make up to ten copies Mantel Clock on the
of this pattern for the personal use of the buyer of this magazine.
PATTERN PULLOUT
Tools:
• #2 and #9 skip tooth blades
• Drill with 1⁄16"-, 1⁄8"- and 5⁄16"-diameter bits
FURTHER READING
By John A. Nelson
Complete Guide to
Making Wooden Clocks,
2nd edition
Comprehensive, step-by-step
photo chapters. Features plans,
parts lists and instructions for
37 clocks. $19.95 plus $3.50 S&H
(parcel post)
Clockmaking
18 projects, with clear drawings,
helpful photographs & easy-to-
follow instructions. $19.95 plus
$3.50 S&H (parcel post)
Available from:
Fox Chapel Publishing
1970 Broad St., East Petersburg, PA 17520
Phone: 800-457-9112 FAX: 888-369-2885
www.FoxChapelPublishing.com
Or check your local supply store.
Advertiser’s Index
Advanced Machinery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 RB Industries . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Back Cover
BG Artforms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71 Roberts Studio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
D & D Woodcrafts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Sloan’s Woodshop .88, Inside Back Cover
Fox Chapel Publishing . . . . . . . .9, 40-41 SSW Subscriber Services . . . . . . . . . . . .50
Mike’s Workshop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71, 77 Scroll Saw Workshop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .79
National Artcraft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78 Scroll Saw Workshop Website . . . . . . . .77
Ocooch Hardwoods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Wildwood Designs . . .Inside Front Cover
Olson Saw Co. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 Wooden Teddy Bear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Proxxon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 Wood Carving Illustrated . . . . . . . . . . .10
Cut 2
Ey
eN
oo
k
Be
ve
lB
ac
kE
dg
e
Tool Clock Intarsia
Page 46 - SSWC Issue 15
/4" stock
Plug
1
Welcome Plaque
Page 70 - SSWC Issue 15