Araucaria heterophylla

Common name: Norfolk Island Pine, Christmas Tree Plant, Australian Pine, House
Pine
Synonymous: Araucaria excelsa
Family: Araucariaceae

Araucaria heterophylla
Distribution and habitat: Araucaria heterophylla is native to Norfolk Island, a sub-
tropical island in the Pacific Ocean between Australia, New Zealand and New
Caledonia; the Araucariaceae are a very ancient family of conifers originally existing
almost world wild but became extinct in the northern hemisphere.
Araucaria heterophylla is a beautiful tree of symmetrical, pyramidal shape, up to 65m
tall (210 feet) in its native habitat, with straight vertical trunk, up to 3m diameter (10
feet), and regular tiers of short, horizontal, spreading branches; leaves crowded on
branches, juveniles of needle or awl-like shape, adults scale-like and ovate; male cones
oblong, to 5cm long (2 inch); female cones erect, usually sub-globose, 10-12cm long (4-
5 inch) and 12-15cm diameter (5-6 inch); seeds oblong, winged, up to 3cm long (1
inch).
Description: This conifer is rarely exceeds 1-2m (3-6 feet) indoors, where it grows very
slowly – no more than 15cm (6 inch) a year. Its branches with tiny needles clustered
together in fan shape are arranged in tiers. New growth – which is normally produced in
spring – is a bright fresh green and this colour is held until the autumn, when it darkens.
The branches are heavy but they do not need to be given any extra support, since the
main stem turns woody in time.
Houseplant care: Do not trim or prune the Araucaria heterophylla. Never cut off the top
or trim the sides of this plant. It does not need to be shaped at all. Remove any lower
branches that die, using sharp pruners to prevent tearing the stems.
If moved outdoors for the summer, keep it shaded from hot sun. Keep the potting
mixture moist at all times. Araucaria heterophylla is frost tender. Bring it back indoors if
the temperature drops below 10°C (50°F).
Light: Araucaria heterophylla do best in medium light. They should not be placed too
far from the window, however, or their needles will fall. Turn the plant regularly to
encourage symmetrical growth.
Temperature: A wide range of temperatures (ideally 7-24oC (45-75oF)) can be
tolerated. Above 27oC these conifers must have high humidity; mist-spray the foliage
occasionally. Provide some ventilation or stand outside during the summer months.
Watering: During the active growth period water plentifully, as often as necessary to
keep the potting moisture thoroughly moist, but never allow the pot to stand in water.
During the rest period water moderately, enough to make the potting mixture thoroughly
moist, but allow the top 2-3cm (0.8-1 inch) to dry out between waterings.
Fertilising: Apply liquid fertiliser to the potting mixture every two weeks in the active
growth period.
Potting and repotting: Use a soil based potting mixture. Repotting should be needed
only every two to three years, but plants can be moved in spring whenever the roots
appear on the surface of the potting mixture or through the bottom of the pot. Since the
shape of the plant deteriorates over a height of 1.5m (5 feet), it is best kept pot-bound to
restrict the growth. 13cm (5 inch) pots are normally the largest necessary, but larger
specimens may require 15cm (6inch) or even 20cm (8 inch) pots.
After reaching the maximum convenient pot size, top-dress in spring.
Gardening: Araucaria heterophylla is very tender and will begin to sustain damage at
temperatures below 4ºC (40ºF) beginning with discoloration of foliage. Plant it outdoors
only within its recommended hardiness zone. It is not particular about soil and tolerates
even very acid soils as well as salty situations at beach side, but good drainage is
essential. It grows well in deep sand, as long as it receives reliable water when young.
Plant it in full sun. It will tolerate shade but the leaves will drop – the deeper the shade,
the droopier the leaves.
It is necessary for the species to be grown in oceanic coastal areas because bodies of
fresh water do not provide enough precipitation, moisture, consistent wind levels and no
saline air which are all things the species requires.
Propagation: Commercially, plants are grown from seed or cuttings, but neither method
is practical for the indoor amateur grower. Although it will take several years to reach
the size of a purchased plant.
Cuttings taken from vigorous upright material will inherit normal upright growth habit, but
cuttings taken from horizontal branches will root, but will maintain horizontal growth
habit rather than normal upright growth.
Problems: Problems usually occur as the result of incorrect treatment.
Falling needles may indicate waterlogging, an atmosphere that is too dry or exposure to
sun.
Mealybugs are the most common pests of Araucaria heterophylla. Watch for white,
cotton-like areas on leaves and stems.
Treatment: Treat any infestation immediately with an appropriate pesticide. Spray all top
growth with pesticide. During the next month examine plants weekly for traces of re-
infestation.
Uses: Araucaria heterophylla is tolerant of salt and wind, making it ideal for coastal
situations in tropics and subtropics regions, also becoming very popular ornamental tree
in gardens, planted singly or in avenues.
Araucaria heterophylla are the only ones from this genus grown indoors. They make
attractive groves and are happily at home in containers indoors and out. Sometimes are
used as ecological Christmas trees as they are not dumped after holidays.
Notes: Do not give up to easy on Araucaria heterophylla. The tree will recover – cut it
back to the ground to force new undamaged suckers to form.
Toxicity: Some people may experience a strong allergic reaction if they touch the
leaves.

Phyllostachys aurea
Common name: Golden Bamboo, Fishpole Bamboo, Fairyland Bamboo
Family: Poaceae
Synonymous: Bambusa aurea
Phyllostachys bambusoides aurea
Sinarundinaria aurea

Phyllostachys aurea
Distribution and habitat: Phyllostachys aurea is a running type of bamboo native to
China which was introduced in Taiwan and in Japan long ago. These cold hardy
bamboo was naturalised in Indonesia, New Zealand, southern USA, Australia and
Hawaii.
Description: Phyllostachys aurea are easily identified by their characteristic
compressed internodes in the lower part of the canes which have a tortoiseshell-like
appearance. This internodal compression result in shorter heights and thicker cane
diameters (relative to height) than many other Phyllostachys species. The canes are
typically green, but will turn yellow in full or partial sun, and deepen into a gold-orange
colour as the plant matures. Branching and foliage tend to start lower to the ground than
many other Phyllostachys, but some prefer to cut off lower branches to show off the
interesting ‘tortoise shell’ lower part of the canes.
The leaves are clustered and produced on short shoots which grow from the joints on
the branches. They consist of a leaf sheath 25-35mm long, which surrounds the stem
and a spreading leaf blade. The base of the leaf blade is very narrow and stalk-like in
appearance. Leaf sheaths are mostly hairless, except near their margins and where the
sheath meets the leaf blade there is a tiny membranous structure about 1mm long
topped with long hairs. On either side of this structure there are sometimes also 1-3
larger bristles. The leaf blades, 5-15cm (2-6 inch) long and 5-22mm wide are elongated
in shape, may be either hairless or softly hairy and have rough but entire margins.
Flowers and seeds are very rarely produced, if ever. When produced, flowers occur in
spikelets up to 5cm (2 inch) long with 8 to 12 flowers. Most reports indicate
thatPhyllostachys aurea produces masses of flowers sporadically and synchronously,
but reported intervals between mass flowering events range from 7 to 30 years. When
they do come into flower most of the plants energies are directed into producing seed
and consequently the plant is severely weakened. They sometimes die after flowering,
but if left alone they will usually recover though they will look very poorly for a few years.
Phyllostachys aurea is a long-lived bamboo with upright stems usually growing 2-8m (6-
26 feet) tall, but occasionally reaching up to 12m (40 feet) in height. Plants form dense
or loose clumps and spread rapidly via creeping underground stems, with the upright
stems being produced from their joints. They will grow in large thickets or groves if left
alone.
Gardening: Phyllostachys aurea is cultivated as an ornamental plant for gardens. It is
the most commonly cultivated bamboo in the United States. Growing rigidly upright, this
bamboo is one of the best for hedges and for planting next to driveways and
walkways. Phyllostachys aurea can be an aggressive spreader in hot climates, where
care must be used in its placement.
It is a fast grower in warm climate zones, but less aggressive in colder climates.
Provides a thick impenetrable grove when untrimmed.
In some micro climates of zone 6, this species does not remain evergreen. This
beautiful bamboo will drop foliage when temps drop to around 15°C bellow 0 (5°F).
Canes will most likely be killed when temps drop to 20°C below 0 (-5°F). Unless temps
drop to 34°C bellow 0 (-30°F) the root system of established well mulched groves will
put up new canes each spring. But, these plants will need a frost-free period of at least
26 weeks to survive.
Of course, growth rate depends a lot on soil, climate, food and water. Small plants are
slow to get going, so starting off with a bigger plant will grow much faster.
Location: Phyllostachys aurea will grow in sparsely wooded secondary forests and
does best in full sun or part shade. It is best to protect these plants from cold drying
winds.
Soil: Phyllostachys aurea growth is considered best in rich, deep, well-drained sands or
in moist, deep loams with a pH between 5 and 7,5. These plants need a soil depth of at
least 36cm (14 inch) for good growth. Although, it may persist on a variety of soils, stem
diameter and height are likely reduced in fine textured and/or poorly drained soils.
These plants should be planted where they can be monitored and contained. The use of
barriers, sunk to a depth of 60cm (24 inch) may contain their spread.
Irrigation: Give to this bamboo species plenty of water in warmer months. These plants
will be less likely to suffer from overwatering.
Phyllostachys aurea prefers moist soil and established plants can tolerate drought.
Fertilising: Fertilise Phyllostachys aurea in spring with decayed animal manure.
Container plants: Phyllostachys aurea can be grown in containers. When grown in
containers these plants will not exceed 2m (6 feet) in height. The containers should be
at least 30cm (12 inch) diameter and filled with good moisture retaining compost based
on peat, leaf mould and charcoal. They need to be kept well watered. Spray the foliage
when grown indoors. Fertilise monthly with liquid fertiliser if used in a container.
Propagation: Phyllostachys aurea by division in spring as new growth commences.
Divisions from the open ground do not transplant well, so will need careful treatment
and nurturing under cover in pots until at least late spring. Division is best carried out in
wet weather and small divisions will establish better than large clumps.
Alternatively, take large divisions from established clumps and transfer them straight to
their permanent positions, misting or drenching them frequently until they are
established.
Also, Phyllostachys aurea can be propagated by basal cane cuttings in spring. Plant
pieces of runners in early spring, just as new shoots are bursting into life. Keep them
continuously moist and these soon root in the pot and continue growing.
Problems: Bamboo is a strong and resilient plant and is more likely to die from lack or
too much water. The most common pests are most likely biological and come in forms
of insects such as aphids, scales, mealybugs and mites.
Treatment: Use adequate pesticide to combat these insects. It is essential that the
pesticide to be applied to both leaf surfaces. When chemical application is not feasible,
infested plants can be cut down and infested debris destroyed to avoid reinfestation.
Note: In sub-tropical and warmer temperate regions, Phyllostachys aurea is problematic
in untended areas, near gardens, along roadsides and waterways and in urban
bushland. Rhizome growth by these bamboo clones can result in the development of
dense thickets and colonies. A single Phyllostachys aurea clump can produce up to 15
km (9.3 miles) of stems in its lifetime. This bamboo once established, is very aggressive
in both its rate of growth as well as the sprouting of new stems. Spread is often rapid in
all directions from the point of establishment.
Management and control:
This bamboo is fast growing and will quickly spread via underground rhizomes. Despite
containment efforts, the rhizomes of Phyllostachys aurea will often find their way out of
confinement to infest nearby areas. The first step in preventative control
of Phyllostachys aurea is to limit planting and removal of existing plants within the
landscape. Care must be exercised to prevent seed spread and dispersal during the
removal process.
Cutting and mowing can be used on small infestations or where herbicides cannot be
used. Cut plants as close to the ground as possible. Repeat several times throughout
the growing season as plants resprout. Monitoring and re-treatment will be necessary
for several growing seasons until the energy reserves in the rhizomes are exhausted.
Foliar applications are most effective if canes are cut and herbicides applied to newly
expanded leaves. Air temperature should be above 18°C (65°F) to ensure absorption of
herbicides.
Uses and display: Phyllostachys aurea is cultivated for its edible shoots in China; it
has the sweetest taste of the genus.
It has been widely planted as an ornamental in the Mediterranean and seems to be
naturalizing there. This is a good companion species to grow in a woodland because
the plants have shallow root systems that do not compete with deep tree roots. Grown
for its screening abilities, Phyllostachys aurea provides visual as well as noise barriers.
It is a prime choice for privacy screening or a bamboo fence. Also, this bamboo is
suitable for planting in tubs or planter boxes: balconies, patios or indoor displays of
bamboo create an exotic atmosphere.

Beaucarnea Recurvata
Common name: Pony Tail Palm, Bottle Palm, Elephant’s Foot Tree, Ponytail Plant,
Nolina Palm, Elephant Palm, Big Base Palm, Desert Pony Tail Palm, Nolina, Nolina
Sole, Ponytail Nolina
Family: Asparagaceae
Synonym: Beaucarnea inermis
Beaucarnea tuberculata
Dasylirion inerme
Dasylirion recurvatum
Nolina recurvata

Beaucarnea recurvata
Distribution and habitat: Beaucarnea Recurvata is native to the dry regions of Texas
and Mexico. It is an evergreen perennial growing up to 6m (20 feet) with a noticeable
expanded caudex, for the purpose of storing water, this plant being able to store a year-
long water supply in its bulbous trunk. The single palm-like stem produces terminal tufts
of strap-shaped, recurved leathery leaves with occasional panicles of small white
flowers.
Description: Mature plants develop an unusual, swollen, bottle-like base (the storage
organ that allows them to withstand very dry conditions) with several long, thin stems.
The stems are topped by the crowns of pendulous strap-like leaves which give the plant
one of its common names – the Ponytail Plant. The plant is also referred to as the
Elephant Foot Tree because of the swollen shape base, coupled with the greyish-brown
colour and the wrinkled texture of the bark.
Beaucarnea Recurvata is the most commonly grown of the Beaucarnea species. It is a
slow-growing plant with a green rosette of recurved, pendulous leaves rising from its
swollen trunk. Indoors specimens obviously will not develop the same tall, tree-like
streams as plants grown outdoors. When grown as indoor plant the concave green
leaves which can be 2m (7 feet) or more long in the wild, are unlikely to exceed about
70cm (28 inch) in length. Clusters of small, whitish, insignificant flowers are borne on
short stalks in spring, through they are unlikely to appear on indoor plants.
Houseplant care: Beaucarnea Recurvata is basically a “plant it and forget it” kind of
plant, providing it has enough light to thrive and somewhat steady water throughout the
growing season. As with all palms, ponytail palms should never be top-trimmed. Plants
moved from indoors to permanent outside locations should be gradually exposed to the
increase in light and temperature change.
Keep in mind, though, that Beaucarnea Recurvata is an extremely slow-growing plant,
so don’t expect your desktop plant to transform into a corner specimen in one or two
growing seasons.
Light: Beaucarnea Recurvata should be provided with bright light at all times,
preferably with some direct sunlight. These plants will grow much more slowly if
insufficient light is provided.
Temperature: Normal room temperature, however variable, should be suitable at all
times. The ideal temperature range for active growth period is between 10°C (50°F) and
24°C (75°F) and for the rest period between 4°C (39°F) and 18°C (64°F), but these
hardy plants are quite tolerant of extremes and frequently thrive in conditions which are
quite unsuitable for other plants.
Water: Water Beaucarnea Recurvata quite sparingly. During the active growth period
allow the top few centimeters (one inch) of the potting mixture to dry out completely
before watering again. During the rest period allow almost the entire mixture to dry out
before watering.
Fertiliser: Very little extra feeding is necessary. However, the Beaucarnea
Recurvata will benefit from weak applications of a complete fertiliser about once every
two weeks during the active growth period.
Potting and repotting: Because of the weight of the trunk and leaves, Beaucarnea
Recurvatamay become slightly top-heavy and fall over, so it is best to use a soil-based
potting mixture and a heavy pot. Indoors, these novel little palms are often grown in
shallow pots.
These plants seldom need repotting and seem to respond quite well to being pot-bound.
Move them on to a larger pot size in spring only if they appear to have completely
outgrown their current container. Otherwise, it should be sufficient simply to provide
some top-dressing with fresh potting mixture.
Propagation: Propagation of these plants is by seed. The process is long and likely to
prove tedious for the average gardener. Well-grown plants are normally available from
plant suppliers.
Uses: Beaucarnea Recurvata is often grown as a houseplant or outdoor plant in
temperate climate gardens. It is hardy to −5 °C (23 °F), and grows in full sun to light
shade. It is very slow-growing and drought-tolerant.
Outdoors, Beaucarnea Recurvata can be used as container plant to a patio or north-
facing verandah or into the open garden. It is a good container plant for warm, well lit
positions indoors as well as on balconies, around pools and courtyards in warmer
areas. Often grown as a street tree in tropical climates.
Beaucarnea Recurvata is drought-tolerant, suitable for xeriscaping. They are ideal
plants to use for rock gardens because they like, warm, dry climates.
Beaucarnea Recurvata is an excellent choice for home or office.
Beaucarnea Recurvata plants make great indoor Bonsais and are ideal for beginners.
Problems: Beaucarnea Recurvata is usually not affected by insects. However, when
growing it indoors watch for spider mites and mealy bugs.
Treatment: Rinse away a minor attack. Completely wash both sides of each individual
leaf with a cloth or sponge dipped in soapy water. If this does not help then use miticide
at recommended intervals.
Root rots can kill plants grown on wet soils.
Treatment: Do not overwater the Beaucarnea Recurvata. During the winter season, cut
back water to monthly.
Coffee plants – Coffea arabica, it’s been a trading commodity for centuries and grown in
Europe since the 1700’s.

Glossy, dark green, 4-5 inch leaves, dress this upright grower.

With good care and a mature plant, small clusters of tiny white flowers develop at the
leaf joints of new growth.

As an extra plus, the tiny flowers produce a sweet jasmine like fragrance.

How About Coffee Beans?

After flowering the “fruit” turns red when it ripens in about 9 months, it can then be
picked and dried. Inside each fruit are two “coffee beans” – which are the coffee seeds.
How To Grow Coffee – Your Own

To grow and harvest your own coffee, you would need to have a lot of beans for a good cup of “arabica.”

After the beans have dried, they would need to be roasted and ground before brewing.

Growing your own fresh brew will take some time as plants need to be 4 to 5 years old before they begin to bear fruit.

Growing Coffee Indoors

When growing coffee plants indoors “under cover” of a greenhouse or sunroom, plants can reach heights of 5 to 6 feet.

During summer, plants need bright filtered light. The type of lighting a plant would get behind a sheer curtain-filtered or morning
light.

Plants will grow fine under ordinary room temperature, night temperatures should stay above 60. Plants can “hold up” with winter
temperatures of around 60 degrees – power and problems can show up.

Coffee tree plants are beautiful plants to grow and can grow big as a houseplant. Throughout the growing season, feed plants with a
half strength liquid fertilizer every other week.

However, their leaves are tender and thin, so put the plant in a location it will not be hit or brushed by traffic.

Indoors the plants will grows best where they receive early morning sun, otherwise keep the plant in a bright location away from
direct sun.

Growing Coffee Outdoors in Summer

A coffee plant can grow outdoors during summer months on the patio of in the garden. However, if temperatures head below 64
degrees during their flower season do not expect fruit.

Much of the effort in plant care as far as watering coffee trees goes can be reduced by growing plants using sub-irrigation or
installing an automatic plant watering system.

Propagation – Cutting or Seed

Cuttings

Growing coffee from cuttings is no different then growing cuttings from other plants.
Spring is probably the best time to take cuttings, placing them into a well draining potting soil medium used for growing cactus and
in addition mixing in 20% perlite. Roots should develop in roughly 4 to 6 weeks.

Seed

Growing from seed is another possibility, but many times the seedling quality is not the best.

Using the same soil mix as used for cuttings, trying to keep soil temperature between 72 – 77 degrees.

After the seeds germinate, repot into new pots and grow the seedlings as described above.

Make a Little “Coffee Greenhouse”

While roots are forming on your plants, create a mini-greenhouse.

Some people will loop a wire into a pot, cut small air holes in a plastic bag. Place the bag over the wire and tie it around the pot.

Personally, I like using a 2 liter soda bottle. Cut the top off the bottle. Punch a few holes in the bottom and slide the bottle over the
pot, creating a small greenhouse.

Pest and Problems

Coffee plants are very robust houseplants, most problems are usually due to cultural errors.

Green leaves dropping off – This condition occurs when plants are kept too dark. MOve to a brighter location, but not in direct
sunlight.

Brown, dead leaf edges –

This often happens when plants are often placed in to too much sun. Look for a spot with more shade. If the leaves are completely
brown, cut them off.

Dried out and withering leaves – Check the temperatures… usually they are too high. Move to a cooler location and keep an eye on
watering. During spring and summer keep the plant evenly moist.

Leaves lose their glossy look – Usually an indication of too much direct sunlight. Move to a shadier location… an east facing window
is good.

Mildew – Show its face by causing fluffy gray or white deposits on the leaves.

Fungus infections can usually be controlled by reducing water, but do not allow the plant dry out. Major outbreaks require a
fungicide spray like captan sprayings two times 8 days apart.

Scale – Usually hides under the leaves. Minor attacks can be handled with alcohol and a cotton swab.
Ficus benjamina

Growing Conditions:
Light: They need a bright room, even with a little direct sun in the morning. In their
native habitat, they are often grown in semi-shady conditions, but indoors they need
good light to thrive.
Water: Keep steadily moist, but don't allow it to sit in water or it will drop leaves and
suffer from root rot.
Soil: Any good, fast-draining potting soil will likely do.
Fertilizer: These are heavy feeders and need plenty of fertilizer throughout the
growing season.
Propagation:
F. benjamina can be relatively easy rooted from cuttings, even without rooting hormone.
It's best to take a cutting in the spring, when you can more easily supply warmth and
moisture. Ficus is rarely grown from seed and most indoor plants will never fruit or yield
seed.
Repotting:
A healthy ficus is a fast-growing plant and will need careful attention paid to its potting.
First off, if you notice your plant is growing more slowly, it's probably because of low
water or low temperatures.

Varieties:
The F. benjamina and the F. microcarpa are often grouped together and confused with
one another, as they are very similar plants. The F. benjamina has a more weeping
growth habit, while the F. microcarpa grows more upright. F. benjamina cultivars have
been bred for novel and useful growth habits, such as the 'Spire,' which is a columnar
plant. Look for darker-leaved varietals for better indoor growth as they are more likely to
be tolerant of low-light conditions.

Grower's Tips:
Ficus benjamina are wonderful and incredibly rewarding plants to grow indoors. They
make beautiful corner plants and large indoor "trees" for entryways and foyers. Although
it is a little more challenging, it is possible to overwinter F. benjamina in temperate areas
without massive leaf-dropping, but it will require careful attention to watering and
temperature. In general, make sure to aggressively fertilizer your ficus plant, especially
during the growing season. They have a fairly high need for fertilizer. Also make sure to
prune away dead branches and pick dead leaves to prevent the spread of diseases or
fungal infections that can severely affect your plant. If your plant is dropping leaves
despite all these steps, and you're giving it nice bright light, try supplementing with a
little magnesium and manganese. Ficus benjamina are vulnerable to pests
including aphids, mealy bugs, scale, and white fly. If possible, identify the infestation as
early as possible and treat with the least toxic option.
The Ficus benjamina is one of the most popular houseplants in the world. Known as the
weeping fig, the F. benjamina is native to India and Southeast Asia, where its an
important fruit and landscape plant. One of the common complaints about F. benjamina
is its tendency to shed leaves easily: you move it, it drops leaves; the watering schedule
changes, it drops leaves. It might help to know that part of this is because of the way
these plants have evolved. F. benjamina are native to the subtropics and tropics where
there is a distinct wet and dry season. In their native environment, plants typically drop
leaves at the beginning of the dry season, making them exquisitely sensitive to changes
in moisture. In terms of indoor culture, they are not especially demanding, but dislike
being moved and, as mentioned before, they are highly sensitive to changes in
watering.
Latin name: Ficus carica
Common name: Common Fig Tree, Brown Turkey Fig
Plant group: Green plants
Plant family: Moraceae
Climate: Subtropical moist forest climate
Minimal temperature: 14-16°C (57-60°F)
Optimal temperature: 22-26°C (71-78°F)
Recommended place: bright, am or pm sunlight
mid-shade
Soil: humus-peat-loamy
Plant form: upright, columnar
tree-like, arboraceous
Height: 100 cm (39 in.)
Flower color: green
yellow
Repotting: every 24 months (2 years)
Rarity: no
Pests: Falcifer ground mealybag (Rhizzoecus falcifera)
Grape Mealybug (Pseudococcus maritimus)
Diseases: Pytium blight (Helminthosporium, Pythium, Fusarium)
Origin territory: Asia

Flowering period
Availability on market

There are over 600 species of Ficus, most of them tropical and evergreen, although
some, most notably F. carica, the common fig, are deciduous. Ficus produces a unique
"fruit" which is actually an inverted flower. Not all Ficus produce edible fruit.

These plants are sold in wide range of sizes, including tissue-cultured cuttings and
plugs, air layers, small liners (plugs) from standard cuttings, and container-grown plants
up to 200-gallon (900 L) capacity.

Fig Tree originally comes from the eastern Mediterranean region.

Fig leaves are bright green, single, alternate and large. They are more or less deeply
lobed with 1-5 sinuses, rough hairy on the upper surface and soft hairy on the
underside. In summer their foliage lends a beautiful tropical feeling. The tiny flowers of
the fig are out of sight, clustered inside the green "fruits", technically a synconium.

Fig trees usually begin bearing fruit within two years. Mulch heavily with organic
materials to conserve moisture, improve soil structure and reduce root knot nematode
levels. Once established, figs are drought tolerant and generally free of pests and
diseases. When fully dormant, fig trees can tolerate temperatures as low as 10°-15°F (-
9 to -12°C). In colder regions, figs are grown as bushes with multiple stems and
branches close to the ground that are laid down and buried before winter. Even if frozen
to the ground, figs often will resprout from the roots and produce a crop the following
summer.

Ficus carica produces edible figs, but has very large leaves, making it suitable for the
largest sized bonsai.

Indoor Ficus appreciate being brought outdooors during summer. Does not like
draughts.

Watering moderate, increasing in summer and decreasing in winter. Many Ficus are
very tolerant of being over or under watered, which makes them ideal for beginners.
Ficus likes a daily misting to maintain humidity.

Ficus are suitable for most styles of bonsai, but are especially suitable for styles which
make use of their property of extensive rooting, such as air-root and root-over-rock
styles. Ficus can be used for all sizes of bonsai, although, obviously, the small-leaved
species make the best miniature bonsai. Leaf pruning can be used to reduce leaf size.

Ficus is one of the easiest plant to root from cuttings; although the specifics for
maximum success vary with species, it's always worth sticking them into soil for the
heck of it, unless you're already overrun with baby Ficus! Very large diameter cuttings of
Ficus can be successfully rooted. Air-layering is also quite easy. Ficus can be grown
from seed, but require heat and humidity, and easily succumb to mold.

Repotting them every 2-3 years, although some will grow rapidly enough that yearly
repotting may be necessary. Ficus can be repotted any time of year if reasonable after-
care is given. Roots can easily be pruned by half.

Some ficus will lose leaves if overwatered or given too little light.
Introduction to the Common Fig

Common fig (Ficus carica) is a small tree native to southwest Asia but widely planted in
North America.. This edible fig is widely grown for its fruit and is commercially grown in
the United States in California, Oregon, Texas, and Washington.

The fig has been around since the dawning of civilizations and was one of the first
plants ever to be cultivated by humans. Fossilized figs dating to 9400-9200 BC were
found in an early Neolithic village in the Jordan Valley. About's Archaeology Guide, Kris
Hirst says figs were domesticated "five thousand years earlier" than millet or wheat.
Mistletoe Fig (Ficus deltoidea)
Low light conditions? Don’t worry about it. Here is a plant that seems to thrive at the hand of least
attention. This Ficus has waxy leaves and produces small nodules of fruit. The habit is upright and
somewhat spreading, like a tree. Its loyalty is unsurpassed, as it will grow where others fear to root.
The growth is slow, but assured. An exceptional companion, it also makes a good bonsai.

Hardiness Zone 10

Sun Requirement Full Sun, Partial Sun, Shade

Grows to 1-3'

Minimum Temperature Indoors 60

Plant Type Easy Grower

MISTLETOE FIG(ficus diversifolia)

Mistletoe Fig Bonsai Tree, scientific name Ficus deltoidea, is a slow growing tree native to the tropical
climates of India, Asia and Africa. It produces small orange and red fruits that look just like mistletoe,
hence the name Mistletoe Fig. It has a slender gray trunk topped with oval shaped leathery, bright green
foliage. The Leaves have tiny brown spots and look just like mistletoe. It also develops interesting aerial
roots. Ficus deltoidea is the only Ficus species that will produce fruits when cultivated indoors. It
produces inedible pea sized fruits “figs” all year round. The figs turn from dull yellow to orange and red.

How To Take Proper Care Of Your Indoor Bonsai Tree

Bonsai is the reproduction of natural tree forms in miniature. This art form has its origin in Japan and
China where it has been practiced for centuries. Bonsai are grown in pots and are totally dependent on
you for their care.

With proper care, your Mistletoe Fig will remain healthy, beautiful and miniature for many years to come.
Since your bonsai is a living miniature tree, it will increase in beauty as it matures through the years. The
instructions below are just the basics and, therefore, we recommend that you purchase one of the many
fine books available on the subject.

PLACEMENT SPRING, SUMMER & FALL

The Mistletoe Fig will thrive indoors in high light and appreciates being kept outdoors during the spring
and summer. When night time temperatures drop below 45 degrees we suggest that you place the tree
on a windowsill or on a table in front of one.

PLACEMENT WINTER
Once nightly lows begin approaching the 40 degree mark, it is time to bring your indoor bonsai inside.
The ideal indoor location is on a window sill facing south. An east or west exposure is second best. A
northern exposure will work, but will necessitate the use of "grow lights" to provide sufficient light to keep
your bonsai healthy. Four to six hours of sunlight per day should suffice. If you can provide more, so
much the better.

WATERING
The watering of your bonsai must never be neglected. Apply water before the soil appears dry -- never
allow the soil to become completely dry. It is a good idea to use a moisture meter until you get to know
the requirements of your bonsai tree. Water should be applied until it begins running out of the holes in
the bottom of your pot. It doesn’t really matter “how” you water your tree, but rather that when you are
finished the tree has been well watered.

HUMIDITY
During the cold months, when your bonsai is inside, we recommend placing it in a shallow tray filled with
a layer of gravel with water added. This provides extra moisture around the tree as the water evaporates
and reduces the amount of moisture lost to modern heating systems.

FERTILIZING
Fertilizing is also necessary if your bonsai is to remain healthy and beautiful. Since your bonsai is growing
in such a small amount of soil it is necessary to replenish the soil's supply of nutrients periodically. Any
general-purpose liquid fertilizer will do fine and is available at most garden centers. We suggest that
fertilizers be used at half their recommended strength. Fertilizer should be applied at least once a month
except during winter. Your bonsai will also respond well to foliar feeding, with a water-soluble fertilizer
applied every other month as a spray.
TRAINING
This brief explanation of basic care does not cover training. Training deals with the art of bonsai and
should be thoroughly understood before undertaking -- or left to a professional. However, most of the true
bonsai trees you find have already been through their training period, thus requiring only periodic
trimming and pinching to remain miniature.

TRIMMING & PINCHING

Trimming and pinching keep your tree miniature. Pinch and trim back the new growth to the farthest safe
point. Never should all of the new growth be removed. A little should be left to sustain the health of the
tree. Tropical and sub-tropical trees used for bonsai will require periodic pinching and trimming
throughout the year. Since different trees grow at different rates, it is necessary to evaluate each tree’s
rate of growth and adjust your trimming and pinching to accommodate it.

REPOTTING
Repotting must be performed periodically on all bonsai when their root system has filled the pot. The
reasons for repotting are to supply your tree with fresh soil, and to encourage a more compact root
system. As a rule, most deciduous trees require repotting every two or three years, while evergreens only
need to be repotted every four or five years. Since trees grow at different rates, this schedule will not
always hold true, therefore, you should examine your tree's root system each year to determine if it has
become pot-bound.

In most cases, the potting process is easy and safe if performed properly and at the right time of the year.
Repotting should be done in mid-summer. The tree, along with all of its soil, should be removed from the
pot. The outer and bottom most fourth of the tree's root mass should be removed. This is done by raking
the soil away, then pruning back the roots. In most cases, it is not good to prune back more than one
fourth of the tree's root mass. After this, the tree can be placed back in its original pot or into another. The
pot should have screen placed over the drainage holes. Then a thin layer of small gravel is placed in the
bottom of the pot for drainage purposes. On top of this gravel is placed the new fresh soil. Place a layer of
well-draining soil which is sufficient enough to elevate the tree to its previous height in the pot. After
placing the tree back in the pot, the area left vacant by the pruned root mass should be filled in with fresh
soil. This fresh soil should be worked in around and under the root mass in such a manner as to avoid
leaving any air pockets. After repotting, your Mistletoe Fig should be thoroughly watered. This can be
achieved by submerging the entire pot in a tub of water. Moss or other ground covers can be used to
cover the surface of the pot to help prevent soil erosion when watering.

INSECTS & DISEASES

Since your bonsai is a tree in miniature, it can be treated for insects and diseases the same as any other
tree. If you discover any insects or diseases, visit our website where you will be able to obtain the
necessary products to eliminate the problem.
 Ficus elastica
Description

There are a number of Ficus elastica varieties grown successfully indoors which includes, "the most
common one" F.elastica decora (has shiny leather type leaves which grow to a foot long), F.elastica
robusta (has larger leaves than decora), F.elastica black prince or burgundy (has near black reddish
leaves) and a selection of variegated types.

How it looks and displaying: The rubber plant is all about having a small tree indoors with broad shiny
attractive leaves. When this plant is about 1 - 2ft tall it's well suited sitting as a centrepiece on a table, on
a shelf, or on a windowsill, but once it begins to grow above 3ft it looks great standing next to a fireplace,
television area or near door entrances (as longs as their are no cold drafts).

I prefer the decora which has plain green leaves, but others like other leaf color variations and there is a
nice choice.

Once the plant begins to mature and grow in height it's common to train and support the trunk and
branches by staking or tying them back to keep them growing upright.

Care level: This species is quite an easy plant to care for and can grow well on low light. The worst a
grower can do (which are common mistakes) is over-water, move the plant around too much or to a spot
with less light or with colder temperatures. Sudden drops of temperature or cold drafts are also not good.

Facts

Origin: India, Nepal, Myanmar, China, Malaysia & others.

Names: Rubber plant or tree, rubber bush (common). Ficus elastica

(botanical/scientific).

Max Growth Height 10ft (3m).

(approx):
Poisonous for pets: Toxic to cats and dogs.

Rubber Plant Care

Temperature: Average room temperatures of 60 - 75°F (15 - 24°C are fine. Avoid lower than 55°F

sudden temperature drops and cold drafts.

Light: A nice brightly lit spot is ideal, without direct sunlight.

Watering: Water once the soil becomes slightly dry to the touch and make sure the pot has

sufficient drainage holes to allow excess water to seep through.

The worst thing you can do regarding watering is "give it too much".

Soil: A well-draining and well-aerated potting soil is needed. 1 part peat,

1 part pine bark and 1 part coarse sand (or perlite) is a good mix.

Re-Potting: From May - June re-pot once the roots have become pot bound or every year

when the plants are very young, and then once every 3 years after the plant has matur

I would renew the soil every year.

Fertilizer: Feed during spring and summer with a diluted liquid fertilizer every two weeks.

Humidity: Normal room humidity is fine. To improve humidity mist the leaves when it

gets very warm in the summer.

Propagation: These can be quite tricky to propagate by stem tip cuttings, but you can succeed.
 Take a cutting (few inches long) and allow the sap to dry for 1 hour.

Before potting the

cutting in soil use rooting hormone and then provide the bottom of the

pot some heat

(usually using a heat pad). The temperature wants to be kept at around

70°F (21°C) - 75°F (24°C) ideally.

Pruning: Once the rubber plant has grown to the height you want it to grow up to,

you can cut the top off. You may also want to prune back any unwanted

branches to give the plant a fuller shape. It's best to prune in spring or summer

but any other time will be fine.

Cleaning: Your plants leaves will appreciate being cleaned gently with tepid
water and you will enjoy the glossy clean dust free look. Use a very soft cloth
or sponge.
 FIDDLE LEAF FIG

Description

This native to west Africa is grown indoors for it's attractive semi-lobed and oval shaped leaves,
which all seem to grow to different sizes. The name fiddle given to this plant comes from its kind
of fiddle (violin) shaped leaves).

This ficus is a slow growing plant that may take up to 10 -15 years to reach full maturity, but
after 3 or 4 years of growth it starts to become an attractive tree like ornamental house plant.

Leaves and trunk: You'll see by the picture to the left the leaves have prominent veins through
the center and from the center to the edge of the leaves. These leaves have a glossy
appearance and grow up to 12 inches long and 5 inches or more wide. The trunk (although it's
strong) is quite an odd one that grows very thin but long, which makes the plant a bushy type
tree and full at the top without lower leaves.

Displaying: These grow well in greenhouses and conservatories because they enjoy high
lighting conditions. They're the type of plant that looks great near doorways, hallways, fireplaces
and other featured parts of a room, although enough light will need to be provided - wherever
they are seated.

Flowering: In their natural habitat and outdoors fiddle leaf plants will produce flowers and then
fruits, however, indoors it rarely happens.

Care level: I would say this ficus seems to be a little harder to care for than the F. elastica
(rubber plant) which is mainly due to it's need for light and it' sensitivity to losing leaves. Worst
thing to do is over water. Also, allowing the soil to dry too much with low humidity levels will
cause leaves to turn brown and unattractive. It's not quite a beginner plant and in no need of an
expert - so most growers will be fine.

Facts

Origin: Western Africa.

Names: Fiddle leaf fig tree (common). -- Ficus lyrata, [syn.] Ficus pandurata
 (botanical/scientific).

Max Growth Height 10ft (3m).

(approx):

Poisionous for Toxic to cats, dogs and horses.

pets:

Fiddle Leaf Plant Care

Temperature: Temperature:Temperatures between 60 - 75°F (15 - 24°C are suitable.

Avoid lower than 55°F (12°C).

Light: A brightly lit spot is needed without direct sunlight, although a small

amount of daily sun is good (not mid afternoon sun).

Watering: Water when the top soil becomes slightly dry and reduce watering in

the winter.

The worst thing to do is to over water (not underwater) because lack of

water is easily fixed,

unlike the damage from over-watering.

Soil: A good draining potting soil is needed which could include part bark and

perlite.

Fertilizer: The ficus lyata does not have a strong need for fertilizer like some other

ficus trees have.

During the spring and summer I would provide the plant with a feed of

diluted liquid

fertilizer once a month.

Re-Potting: When the plant is young and growing re-pot it every spring. Once it matures

you'll

only need to replace the top soil each year.

Humidity: Normal room humidity is fine, but increase the humidity during the winter if
 artificial heating is used within the room.

Propagation: It's advisable for the average indoor grower to not propagate

these because they're difficult,

although it's worth trying. If you try you will need to take stem

tip cuttings, add rooting

hormone to the cut and replant them. Once planted use bottom

heat to improve your

chance of success. Air layering is also a method used to propagate

these, which is more

successful but difficult for most indoor growers.

Pruning: Remove leaves that have seen better days as soon as they start

deteriorating

(check there is no plant problems). Pruning the top is advised to keep the

fiddle leaf at

the desired height. You wont need to cut back any branches or leaves

unless some

begin growing quite straggly and the plant is becoming leggy.

Misting and cleaning: To improve humidity mist the leaves. Also clean the leaves with

soft sponge and

 water to remove dust and improve the glossy appearance.

Potential Problems
 Loss of leaves: Well- the problem could be one of any of these reasons. Some of the
lower leaves will naturally drop when the plant is seeing new growth to encourage new
leaves to grow. One cause can be lack of water (although leaf discoloration and
becoming dry should be noticeable first) or low humidity (dry air). Also, if you have
recently bought the plant or moved it to a new spot then this may have shocked the
plant, which it will adjust to. Cold drafts can also cause leaf drop. You will need to go
through a process of elimination to find the cause and eliminate the care conditions you
are providing correctly first to find the reason leaves are dropping.
 Brown edges on leaves and dry:. Humidity is probably too low which is causing the air
to be dry, or maybe not enough water or both. This is quite easy to put right by improving
the humidity or by watering the plant thoroughly. It's best to remove the dry and brown
edged leaves.
 Leaves softening and brownish patches: The problem here is more than likely over-
watering - cold temperatures or both, which could eventually kill the plant. Check if the
soil is too wet from the top and through the holes at the bottom of the pot. If its fairly
damp or soggy it might be worth removing the old soil and replacing it. You will need to
increase heat and maybe lower the humidity in the room to see if this resolves the
problem.
FICUS RETUSA

Growth Rate Explained

The growth rate of the Indian laurel fig is most often reported as moderate, meaning from 12 to 24
inches a year, and sometimes as fast, meaning 24 or more inches a year. Under most conditions it
will likely grow at a moderate rate, but if you grow it in a climate that it likes and with room for its
roots to spread, it will grow faster. It is native to the tropics and grows best in warm, humid climates
within its USDA range. It needs regular watering to maintain its growth rate. It likes full sun and
moist soil and will tolerate marine air.
Names

The Indian laurel fig is also commonly called Indian laurel, Indian ficus, Chinese banyan, curtain fig
or glossy-leaved fig. Adding to the confusion of common names, the scientific name of the Indian
laurel fig has been changed numerous times over the years. You may see it listed in its outdated or
inaccurate names of Ficus thonningii, Ficus nitida, Ficus retusa, Ficus retusa ssp. nitida or Ficus
microcarpa var. nitida. Nurseries often sell it as Ficus nitida.
Description

The estimates of the size of the Indian laurel fig vary from 25 to 30 feet high with a spread of 35 to
40 feet wide to 50 to 80 feet high. Its dense, rounded canopy spreads as the tree matures, typically
becoming wider than the tree is high. The discrepancy in reported size is affected by climate and
whether the trees have room to grow and spread. Indian laurel figs can be pruned as hedges, screens
or topiary, and their twisted, rustic trunks make them a favorite for growing in pots as bonsai.
Root Growth

Perhaps equally important as the growing rate of the Indian laurel fig is the growth of its extensive
root system. The tree’s surface roots spread outward to the edge of the canopy and sometimes
beyond, posing a danger of undermining nearby foundations, sidewalks and walls. Trees planted for
their beauty and shade in urban and suburban areas are sometimes removed because of their roots.

Ficus Retusa, also called Cuban Laurel, is a common bonsai variety that can also be found in a larger
potted form. The University of Florida recommends the tree grow as an indoor plant, but it can be
placed outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10B and 11.
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Location

Choose a growing location that receives full to partial sunlight with a temperature above 55 degrees
F. Keep the plant away from drafts or areas with temperature fluctuations. Move the plant to a
partially shaded area if the foliage appears dried from too much sunlight. Bring the plant inside when
the temperature drops below 55 degrees to prevent stunting growth or killing the tree.

Watering

Give the Ficus retusa enough water to keep the soil evenly moist, but not wet, during the spring and
summer months. Reduce the water applications in the fall and winter months by applying water only
once the soil becomes slightly dry to prevent over-saturation that promotes root rot.

Fertilizer

Apply a houseplant fertilizer with a ratio of 3:1:2 every two weeks during the summer months to
keep the plant healthy during its prime growing season. Avoid letting the fertilizer make contact with
the stem or leaves to prevent burning the tissue. Only fertilize Ficus retusa during the winter months
when it appears weak or pale.

Pests

Scales and thrips can be a problem to the Ficus retusa. Scales are hard-shelled insects that chew on
the stem and leaves. Insecticide is ineffective on scales due to their hard outer shell. Hand pick off
scales as they are seen and dispose of them in a sealed bag. Thrips chew on the leaves and can cause
defoliation. Isolate an infected plant and apply horticulture neem oil to the leaves and soil to control
the problem.

Pruning

Bonsai trees require pruning to keep them in a desirable shape. Prune during the winter months when
the tree isn't actively growing to reduce plant stress. Clip off up to four leaves at a time once at least
10 have grown on the branch. Repot the Ficus retusa every two to three years to refresh the growing
medium. Pruning the roots by one-third their size allows you to repot the tree in the same container to
keep the small bonsai shape.
Gardenia jasminoides
Common name: Common Gardenia, Cape Jasmine, Cape Jessamine
Family: Rubiaceae
Synonymous: Gardenia augusta
Genipa florida
Genipa grandiflora
Genipa radicans

Gardenia jasminoides
Distribution and habitat: Gardenia jasminoides is an evergreen flowering plant originated
in Asia. It is most commonly found growing wild in Vietnam, Southern China, Taiwan,
Japan, Myanmar and India distributed in broad-leaved forests at low to medium elevations.
With its shiny green leaves and heavily fragrant white summer flowers, it is widely used in
gardens in warm temperate and subtropical climates and as a houseplant in temperate
regions.
Description: Gardenia jasminoides are low-growing bushy shrubs mainly prized for their
fragrant flowers which give out a heady perfume. Gardenia jasminoides is the only species
of Gardenia grown indoors. Despite their common name ‘Cape Jasmine’ they are not related
with true Jasmine. As a potted plants rarely exceeds 45cm (18 inch) in height or spread,
even through it is capable of growing up to 2m (7 feet) in climates where it can be grown
outside in the garden.
The 10cm (4 inch) long leaves of Gardenia jasminoides are shinny, dark green, leathery,
lance-shaped and usually arranged in opposite pairs, though sometimes in whorls of three
or more. The flowers, which may be fully double (with many petals or semi-double with only
two layers of slightly arching petals), are 5-10cm (2-4 inch) across and appear, usually
singly, from leaf axils near the ends of the shoots.
Most Gardenia jasminoides bloom naturally during the summer months. Each flower may
last only five to seven days, but the bloom can last for many months with proper care. Only
a few flowers are generally open at any given time per plant. Happy plants may bloom a
second time in the fall.
The plants can live up to 10 years, indoors, with proper care.
Houseplant care: Gardenia jasminoides are not difficult plants to grow, although they
require particular attention in order to flower.
Some early spring pruning is usually necessary to keep the shrub low and bushy. Nip out
the growing points of any long new shoot on young plants and cut out about half or even
two-thirds of the old wood of the mature plants. Be careful, however, not to nip out flower
buds. The stems of the plants can always be cut back later after the flowers have died. The
cuts should be made immediately above the points where growth-producing duds point
outward rather than toward the centre of the plant.
Remove the faded blooms.
Natural gas fumes will harm the plant, so growing gardenias near a gas stove or fireplace is
not a good idea.

Light: Gardenia jasminoides do best in bright light. Always keep them out of direct sunlight,
however.
Established plants may be moved outdoors in a shady, sheltered location for the summer
months. Bring the plant indoors when temperatures fall bellow 15°C (60°F).
Temperature: The key to success in bringing Gardenia jasminoides into flower is to
maintain a steady temperature of 16-17°C (61-62°F) during the period when flower buds
are forming; a sudden change in either direction is practically certain to cause the buds to
drop off. When plants are not forming flower buds, the range can be that of fairly normal
room, between 15-24°C (60-75°F).
A high degree of humidity is also essential when flower buds are forming. To achieve this,
stand the pots on trays of moist pebbles or peat moss and spray plants at least once a day
with fine mist-spray, using water at room temperature. But try not to wet the flowers if the
plants are in bloom, because water on the petals causes discolouration.
Fresh, moist (humid) circulating air is a necessity, especially during the winter. Hot, stale or
dry air can cause fungal issues. Keep this plant away from radiators and avoid draughts.
Watering: Gardenia jasminoides do not have a well defined rest period. They grow less
actively, though, during the winter in areas where the winter months bring on considerable
reduction of light. In such places water these plants moderately during the summer, giving
enough at each watering to make the potting mixture moist throughout and allowing the top
centimetre or so of the potting mixture to dry out before watering again. During the winter
months allow the top few centimetre or so of the potting mixture to dry out completely
before watering again.
Such reduced winter watering is desirable even with the plants that are forced into winter
flowering. In areas with less winter reduction of light, watering can remain unchanged
throughout the year. Always use slightly warm, preferable lime free water for these plants.
These flowering plants are thirsty. Dry soil will cause the buds to drop. Check the soil at
least every couple days. Keep it moist but not soggy, which can also cause buds to drop.

Feeding: Apply an acid fertiliser every two weeks, but only during the growing season, to
these lime heating Gardenia jasminoides plants.
Potting and repotting: Most growers use a lime free potting mixture even though
Gardenia jasminoides can tolerate a little alkalinity. A mixture of equal parts of leaf mould
and peat moss is excellent. If a propetary peat-based potting mixture is used, make sure it
is suitable for lime hating plants, since some are not. Because there is relatively little
nutritional value in leaf mould and none in peat moss, it is especially important to give a
regular feeding as recommended if this mixture is used. It is also possible to use a soil
based potting mixture as long as it is non-alkaline. The feeding regime is less essential with
soil based potting mixture than with soil-less ones.
Repot Gardenia jasminoides only when their roots have nearly filled the pot (as indicated by
their appearance at the surface or outside the bottom drainage holes). These plants flower
best when they are kept in pots that are just a little too small for vigorous stem growth.
Ideally, any repotting should only be done when the plants are beginning to grow in the
spring and the root ball should be disturbed as little as possible.
Gardening: Gardenia jasminoides can be grown in beds in areas within its hardiness zones,
but growing them in containers allow the plants to be moved to more suitable seasonal sites
and makes it easier to control pests.
When pulling weeds from around Gardenia jasminoides in garden, do so carefully. This
plant’s roots are shallow and can damage easily. Consider to place a 5 to 8cm (2-3 inch)
layer of organic mulch to keep the weeds from growing as it helps the soil to maintain
moisture.
Location: Gardenia jasminoides can grow in part shade or part sun. It requires good
amount of light to bloom successfully. During the hottest climate, protect the plant by
keeping it in shade. Although, keep away from big bushy shrubs which can overwhelm this
smallerGardenia jasminoides.
The fragrance of Gardenia jasminoides plants is strong, so it is best planted in a place where
its smell can spread easily. It can be planted near a wall, deck or patio; so that its fragrance
is carried easily throughout the landscape.
Soil: The preferred soil for Gardenia jasminoides should be rich, acidic, moisture-retentive
and well drained. Use a soil which has 6 or higher pH. This is a calcifuge (lime hating) plant,
which means it does not tolerate alkaline soil. If the soil is not acidic enough, then many
plant problems can occur.
When planting them, keep a distance of at least 1m (40 inch) between each plant.
Irrigation: Gardenia jasminoides requires average watering. However, supply the plant
adequate water on a regular basis, taking care not to over water it. The soil should be kept
moist at all times, but it should not be soggy. Irrigating with drip systems keeps water off
the foliage and flowers, which helps prevent leaf and petal spots. When well established, it
can moderately tolerate drought conditions. To help maintain adequate soil moisture, use
mulch and avoid cultivation around the base of the plant.
Avoid using very hard water for Gardenia jasminoides, however. If soft water is not
available, then add some vinegar to the hard water to lower its pH.
Fertilise: Gardenia jasminoides requires fertilisation twice in a year to maintain dark green
leaves. Fertilise during early spring (before the flowers appear) and during early summer.
Use an iron chelate fertilizer and mix with an acidic soil mixture.
Propagation: Gardenia jasminoides can be propagated from 8cm (3 inch) long tip cuttings
taken in early spring. Dip these in hormone rooting powder and plant them in small pots of
moistened peat-based potting mixture suitable for lime hating plants. Place the potted
cuttings in a heated propagating case or alternatively, enclose them in a plastic bags and
keep them at a temperature of 15-18°C (59-64°F) in bright light which is filtered through
something like a translucent blind or curtain. Rooting should occur in four to six weeks. In
late summer move the rooted cuttings into pots a size larger, containing the potting mixture
recommended for mature plants. Water them moderately and feed them at least once a
month until they are well developed. Then treat them as mature plants.
Recommended varieties:
Gardenia jasminoides ‘Belmont’ which is densely bushy plant and bears large, fragrant,
many petaled, white flowers that turn cream coloured as they age. This variety is often sold
as cut flowers by florists.
Gardenia jasminoides ‘Fortuniana’ (Gardenia jasminoides ‘Florida’) is a less bushy plant with
medium size, rather waxy, snowy-white, many petaled flowers that turn yellowish with age.
Gardenia jasminoides ‘Veitchii’ has a dense growth and medium size, many petaled flowers
which normally remain pure white. This variety can be brought into flower in early winter by
dis-budding (having their flower buds picked off at an early stage) throughout summer and
early autumn.
Gardenia jasminoides ‘White Gem’ is a dwarf variety reaching only 60cm (24 inch) tall. It is
one of the most common species of Gardenia for growing indoors.
Gardenia jasminoides ‘Radicans’ has an upright form, making it a favorite for shaping a
gardenia tree. It is perfect for creating a Gardenia bonsai.
Problems: Generally the result of incorrect treatment.
Yellowing leaves are the result of careless watering or due to deficiency of one or more
micro nutrients (usually iron).
Treatment: Allow the soil to remain evenly moist but not water saturated. Micro nutrients
deficiency can often be corrected by acidifying the soil with aluminum sulfate, iron sulfate or
wettable sulfur. Iron chelate may be used on the soil or foliage. An acidulating houseplant
fertilizer can be used to lower soil pH.
Bud drop may be caused by sudden changes in temperature or by incorrect watering.
Treatment: Maintain adequate soil moisture but avoid over-watering; avoid insufficient
light; avoid planting in locations where nighttime temperatures commonly exceed 13-15°C
(55–60°F); control parasitic insects.
Failure of flower buds to form is a result of too high temperatures (day and/or night) as well
as too low temperatures at night.
Red spider mite and aphids may be a problem where the humidity is low. These insects are
small and often hide underneath the leaves. Symptoms are: the leaves are turning yellow,
curling or there are holes in the leaves.
Treatment: Spray the plant with insecticidal soap. Follow the label directions for proper
usage.
Whiteflies are white and cottony appearance of leaf undersides. The whiteflies have as a
side effect accumulation of black sooty mold.
Treatment: Successive sprays of insecticidal soaps or white oil.
Thrips are tiny black insects that feed on flowers and leaf undersides. They cause browning
the margins of the flower petal, distortion of flowers or failure of buds to open.
Treatment: Treat the plant with a suitable insecticide, but it should be used while the
flowers are still in bud, because it can burn the petals.
Mealybugs suck plant juices, and heavy infestations will coat the leaves with sticky
honeydew. They appear as white cottony masses found in the leaf axils, underside of leaves
and other protected areas.
Treatment: Use appropriate insecticides. Remove with an alcohol saturated cotton swab or
wash plants with soapy water and a soft brush or cloth or pick off with tweezers or a
toothpick.
Look for caterpillars which feed on leaves.
Treatment: Use an appropriate insecticide to combat these pests.
In sandy soil, nematodes feed on the roots and can cause Gardenia jasminoides to be
stunted or even die.
Treatment: Soil fumigation is a must prior to planting as preventive measure. Graft onto
nematode-resistant rootstock such as Gardenia thunbergia can be an option where these
pests are a problem. Incorporate wood shavings or organic matter in the soil mass to
depress nematode population.
Root rots caused by various fungi also can be a problem, especially in poorly drained soils.
Treatment: Avoid overwatering and avoid planting these plants in heavy soils. Use a
suitable fungicides.
Powdery mildew appears as white and powdery spots on leaves. This is a fungal disease
favored by relatively cool nights and warm days.
Treatment: Methods of treatment this disease include preventive or curative fungicides
usage, weed control and providing good soil drainage. Increase ventilation and airflow to aid
in drying foliage.
Sooty mold causes black, thin layers of the fungus to form over the upper surface of the
leaves. Sooty mold is caused by a group of related fungi that grow upon sugary exudate or
honeydew secreted by sucking insects such as aphids, scales, mealybugs and whiteflies.
Treatment: Control sucking insects. Sooty mold usually weathers away following control of
the insect infestation. Once the insects are controlled, wash the sooty mold off the leaves
with soap and water.
Purchasing tips:
Buy Gardenia jasminoides plants that are loaded with well-formed buds and, perhaps, one
or two open blooms.
Check flower buds, stems and leaves for signs of wilt, browning or yellowing foliage, mold
and rot.
Companion plants: Combine Gardenia jasminoides fragrant beauty with other woodland
shrubs and perennials like Astrantia major (Masterwort), Heuchera (Coral Bells), Camellia
and Evergreen Azalea species. Create a tropical container planting for your patio or deck
with Mandevilla, Colocasia (Elephant Ears), Agapanthus and Fuchsia species.
Uses and display: With its low, dense growth, Gardenia jasminoides is a favorite for
limited space. Best planted close to outdoor living spaces in heavy ceramic pots or raised
planters to enjoy the lovely fragrance. Although care needs to be taken in placing this plant
in the landscape because its fragrance can be too intense for some people. It should not be
placed below bedroom windows. Plant it near a deck, walkway or patio where the fragrance
can be enjoyed throughout the whole garden or landscape.
With their glossy, dark green foliage, gardenia plants make a great foundation in a
landscape. It is effectively used as either focus or background in informal plantings and for
tropical-theme landscape plantings. Gardenia jasminoides can also be an accent plant
around seating areas or near windows to take advantage of their extremely fragrant white
flowers. They do well in containers (22-30cm (9-12 inch) tubs) and are suitable as well for
hedges, low screens, mass plantings and groundcovers.
Gardenia jasminoides is also a popular cut flower for the florist for use in corsages and in
Hawaii leis. The flowers float nicely in table-top glass or ceramic vessels. Gardenia flowers
have a vase life of 2 days. Flowers that will be used for lei making can be stored in a refrig-
erator at 4°C (40°F) for up to 1 day and 3 days for buds. Spray with water to clean the
flowers or buds and place them on a wet paper towel in a bowl before refrigerating.
Hardy Banana Tree Growing Hardy banana trees like to be grown in full to partial sun and well
drained, moist soil.

banana tree is actually an herbaceous perennial (the world’s largest) despite being referred to as a
tree. What looks like a trunk is actually tightly bound banana tree leaves. This “trunk” is botanically
referred to as pseudostem, which means false stem. The interior of the banana tree pseudostem is
where all the growth of the plant takes place, similar to a canna lily. The giant leaves of the cold
hardy banana tree — some species may become eleven feet long — serve a useful purpose. During
tropical storms or hurricanes, the leaf will shred along each side. Although a bit unsightly, the
raggedy look keeps the leaves of the banana tree from being snapped off in the high winds.
Propagation of the hardy banana tree is achieved through division, which will take a sharp spade
and strong back.

Taking Care of a Banana Tree Inside:

Banana plant houseplants require frequent feeding, especially during their active growth in warm
weather. Therefore, you’ll want to give them a balanced soluble fertilizer each month. Apply this
evenly throughout the container. These plants also like hot and humid conditions. Indoor bananas
need warm temperatures; night temperatures around 67 degrees F. (19 C.) are ideal and day
temperatures in the 80s (26 C.). While an indoor banana tree needs more water than those grown
outside, it should never be allowed to sit in water, which inevitably leads to root rot. Allow the plant
to dry out some between waterings. Misting their foliage can help keep them hydrated and happy.
In addition, an indoor banana plant should have its leaves wiped down occasionally with a damp rag
or sponge to collect any accumulated dust. Indoor banana plants can spend summers outdoors in
warmer regions. However, they need to be protected from wind and cold. Make sure to acclimate
plants both before bringing them back inside once it cools and just after setting them out in warm
weather. To make moving plants easier, use rolling platforms. Taking care of a banana tree inside is
just that easy. When you grow a banana inside, it is like you are bringing a little of the tropics into
your home.
Schefflera actinophylla
Common name: Schefflera, Umbrella Tree, Octopus Tree, Amate, Queensland Umbrella
Tree
Synonym: Brassaia actinophylla

Family: Araliaceae

Schefflera actinophylla
Distribution and habitat: Schefflera actinophylla is native to tropical rainforests and
gallery forests in Australia (eastern Queensland and the Northern Territory), New Guinea
and Java. It often grows as an epiphyte on other rainforest trees.
Description: Schefflera actinophylla is an evergreen tree to 12m (40 feet) tall, with single
or multi-stemmed trunks and greenish bark. Leaves alternate with petioles to 61cm (24
inch) long; palmate compound with mostly 7-16 leaflets shiny, light green, oblanceolate, up
to 30cm (12 inch) long, with margins entire (or sparsely toothed when young). Flowers
25mm (1 inch) across, borne in dense clusters that form a large, red, showy inflorescence
at stem tips above foliage. Fruit a purplish black, round, fleshy drupe to 7mm (0.25 inch) in
diameter.
Houseplant care: Schefflera actinophylla is an easy to care plant. This plant will live for
many years if it is looked after properly. It is often lack of space – particularly vertical
space that brings about its end. If it gets too tall or to get a bushy Schefflera
actinophylla plant cut back growth in the autumn.
Provide thin stakes for stems where necessary. The main stem will need to be tied to a
stake at intervals as it grows taller, although this will be less necessary if growing tips are
pinched out regularly.

The leaves of Schefflera actinophylla will benefit from being cleaned regularly with a damp
sponge.
Water: Water plentifully in the summer – once or twice a week – and mist occasionally. In
winter, water about once a week and mist every two weeks.
Do not let it stand in surplus water – it does not like wet feet.

Light: Schefflera actinophylla does well in a brightly-lit position – but it can also tolerate a
shady spot.
Temperature: In summer, keep at normal room temperatures. It can stand outside, as
long as the temperature does not exceed 21°C(70°F). In winter, the temperature should be
kept above 12°C (55°F).
Fertilising: Feed once a month during the summer with a standard liquid fertilizer.
Propagation: Propagate Schefflera actinophylla in spring from tip or stem cuttings 7-10cm
(3-4 inch) long. Take each cutting immediately below a leaf node, strip off lower leaves and
dip the cut end on the cutting in a hormone rooting powder. Plant the cutting in a 7cm (3
inch) pot containing a moisture equal parts mixture of peat moss and coarse sand or perlite
and enclose the whole in a plastic bag or heated propagation case. Maintain temperature of
18-23°C (64-73°F). At lower temperatures these cuttings are likely to rot before they can
root.
In bright filtered light and steady warmth a cutting should root in three to four weeks. When
renewed growth indicates that rooting has occurred, acclimatise the new plant to room
conditions over a period of about two weeks by opening the bag or the case a little more
every day and water the plant only enough to keep rooting mixture barely moist.

When the plant is uncovered, place it in bright lit situation, water moderately and apply
standard liquid fertiliser monthly until a fine network of roots appeared on the surface of the
potting mixture. This will have occurred by the time two or three new leaves have been
produced.

Thereafter move the plant into a slightly larger container of soil-based mixture and treat it
as recommended for mature Schefflera actinophylla.
Potting and repotting: Use a soil based potting mixture. Move the plant into a pot one
size larger annually in early spring. After maximum convenient pot size has been reached,
plants should be top-dressed annually.
Problems:
Yellow, falling leaves are due to overwatering or leaving the plant pot standing in water.
Treatment: Let the pot mixture to dray out a little between waterings and use less water in
future.
Plants get thin, long and leggy when the temperature is too warm and the plant does not
get enough light.
Treatment: Move the plant to a cool and brighter spot.
Brown scales on leaves and stems are insect attacks.
Treatment: Dab with cotton swab dipped in diluted methylated spirit and scrape off with a
toothpick.
Uses: Schefflera actinophylla is commonly grown in mild to warm climates as a decorative
tree in larger gardens and, when mature, it has bright red spikes of flowers with up to 20
racemes which develop in summer or early autumn.
With a minimum temperature of 13°C (55°F), juvenile specimens are grown in temperate
regions as houseplants.

Schefflera actinophylla is said to remove benzene (a carcinogenic substance) from the air.
Availability: Schefflera actinophylla is available at all times of the year from nurseries or
garden centres.