Ducati Monster 796 Service Manual

1 - General
01 - General
02 - Information about the model
03 - Technical data
04 - Maintenance operations
05 - Fairings
06 - Electric system and engine control system
07 - Chassis
08 - Fuel/Exhaust System
09 - Engine
0GENERAL INDEX
Section 1
01 - General
1 - How to use this manual 3
Layout of the manual 4
2 - Symbols - Abbreviations - References 5

Product specifications 6
3 - Hazardous Products - Warnings 8

General safety rules 8
General maintenance indications 9
Section 2
1 - Identification data 3
Monster 796 / 796 ABS identification data 3
Section 3
03 - Technical data
1.1 - Technical specifications 3
General 3
Colours 4
Transmission 4
Timing system/valves 4
Exhaust system 5
Cylinder/Piston 5
Gearbox 6
Cooling system 6
Front wheel 6
Front suspension 6
Rear wheel 6
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1 - General
Rear suspension 7
Hydraulic brakes 7
Charging system/alternator 8
Ignition system 8
Fuel system 8
Injection system 8
Lights/instrument panel 8
1.2 - Dimensions 9
2 - Fuel, lubricants and other fluids 10
3 - Torque settings 11
Frame torque settings 11
Engine torque settings 17
4 - Service tools 20
Specific tools for the engine 20
Specific tools for the frame 25
Appropriate diagnosis tools 28
Section 4
04 - Maintenance operations
1 - Vehicle pre-delivery 3
2 - Routine maintenance table 4

Scheduled maintenance chart: operations to be carried out by the dealer 4
Scheduled maintenance chart: operations to be carried out by the customer 5
3 - Maintenance operations 6
Checking the engine oil level 6
Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge 6
Checking valve clearances 9
Changing and cleaning the air filters 14
Changing the brake fluid 16
Draining the brake circuit 21
Filling the brake system with fluid 23
Changing the clutch fluid 26
Draining the clutch hydraulic circuit 28
Filling the clutch circuit 30
Adjusting the steering head bearings 32
Adjusting the chain tension 34
Checking brake pad wear and changing brake pads 35
Adjusting the throttle cable 38
Adjusting the clutch lever and front brake lever 40
Adjusting the position of the gear change and rear brake pedals 41
Adjusting the rear shock absorber 42
Adjusting the exhaust valve bowden cable 44
Fitting a new motor and new cable 47
Fitting a new exhaust valve cable with used motor 53
Fitting a new exhaust valve motor with used cable 60
1 - General
Section 5
05 - Fairings
1 - Headlight fairing - rear-view mirrors 3
Removal of the rear-view mirrors 4
Refitting the rear-view mirrors 4
Removal of the headlight fairing 5
Refit the headlight fairing 8
2 - Fairings 9
Removal of the fuel tank fairings 10
Refitting the fuel tank fairings 12
3 - Seat 16
Removal of the seat 17
Refitting the seat 18
Removal of the tool tray 18
Refitting the tool tray 19
4 - Front and rear mudguard 20

Removal of the front mudguard 21
Refitting the front mudguard 23
Removing the rear mudguard 25
Refitting the rear mudguard 25
Section 6
06 - Electric system and engine control system
1 - Wiring diagram 4
796 Wiring diagram 4
Key to wiring diagram 5
796 ABS Wiring diagram 6
Wiring diagram colour codes 7
Key to fuse box 8
Routing of wiring on frame 9
Table A 11
Table B 12
Table C 14
Table D 15
Table E 17
Table F 19
Table G 23
Table H 24
Table J 26
Table K 27
Table L 28
Table M 31
Table N 34
Table O 36
Table P 38
Table Q 42
Table R 43
1 - General
Table S 44
Table T 45
Table U 46
Table V 47
2 - Battery charging system 48

Checking the battery charging system 48
Recharging the battery 49
Topping up the electrolyte 50
Battery 53
Battery support 56
Alternator 57
Rectifier-regulator 60
3 - Electric starting system 66

Electric starting system 66
Starter motor 67
Starter contactor 71
4 - Lights and indicating devices 76

Renewal of the headlight 76
Changing bulbs 81
High beam headlights relay 84
Headlight aim 86
5 - Indicating devices 87
Checking the indicating devices 87
Changing light bulbs 92
6 - Protection and safety devices 93

Checking protection and safety device components 93
Checking the fuses 95
7 - Instruments 97
Instrument panel 97
Instrument panel system 98
Display settings and functions 100
8 - immobilizer and transponder 129
10 - Description of the system 132

General information on the fuel injection-ignition system 132
Fuel circuit 135
Intake air circuit 136
Operating phases 138
11 - Fuel injection - ignition system 139
12 - System components 140

Electronic Control Unit (ECU) 140
Fuel injectors 142
Stepper motor 143
Lambda sensor 144
Air pressure sensor 146
Temperature sensor 148
Spark plug 150
1 - General
Coil 152
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) 155
Timing/rpm sensor 156
Injection and main relay 157
13 - Diagnostic instruments 158

Using a multimeter to check the electrical systems 158
Description of the Ducati Diagnostic System tester 160
Tester power supply 162
DDS diagnosis instrument 165
Checking and adjusting timing belt tension 165
Self-adaptation of the throttle position sensor (TPS) 170
Adjusting the idle speed 174
Check the engine oil pressure 179
Cylinder compression test 183
Fuel pressure test 186
Immobilizer override procedure 192
Guided diagnosis 196
Testing the battery charging system 199
ABS diagnosis 201
Icons table 202
Section 7
07 - Chassis
1 - Front wheel 5
Removal of the front wheel 6
Overhauling the front wheel 8
Refitting the front wheel 10
2 - Rear wheel 13
Removal of the rear wheel 14
Overhauling the rear wheel 15
Refitting the rear wheel 16
3 - Front brake control 18

Removal of the front brake master cylinder 19
Refitting the front brake master cylinder 20
Maintenance operations 22
Removal of the front brake system 22
Removal of the brake discs 24
Overhauling the front brake components 24
Refitting the brake discs 24
Refitting the front brake system 25
4 - Rear brake control 29

Removal of the rear brake lever 30
Disassembly of the rear brake control 32
Refitting the rear brake control 33
Removal of the rear brake calliper 37
Refitting the rear brake calliper 39
5 - ABS system information 41

Operating principle 41
1 - General
ABS system operating information 42

ABS system deactivation 44
Replacing the front phonic wheel sensor 46
Replacing the rear phonic wheel sensor 48
Removing of the ABS control unit 49
Refitting the ABS control unit 50
Flexible wiring/hoses positioning 53
Table A 54
Table B 55
Table C 57
Table D 59
Table E 60
Table F 63
7 - ABS components maintenance 65

Adjusting of the AIR-GAP phonic wheel sensor 65
Bleeding of the ABS hydraulic system 67
8.1 - Handlebar unit: Throttle twistgrip 68

Removal of the handlebar 69
Refitting the handlebar 70
Removal of the throttle twistgrip 71
Refitting the throttle twistgrip 73
8.2 - Handlebar unit: clutch lever 74

Removal of the clutch master cylinder assembly 75
Refitting the clutch master cylinder assembly 76
Removal of the clutch transmission unit 78
Refitting the clutch transmission unit 79
9 - Gearchange mechanism 84
Removal of the gearchange control 85
Disassembly of the gearchange control 86
Refitting the gearchange mechanism 87
10.1 - Fork - steering head: front fork 88

Removal of the front forks 89
Overhauling the front forks 90
Refitting the front forks 103
10.2 - Fork - steering head: Steering 104

Steering angle adjustment 106
Removal of the steering head components 107
Refitting the steering head components 113
12 - Rear shock absorber assembly 117

Rear suspension system 118
Removal of the rear shock absorber 118
Overhauling the rear shock absorber 119
Refitting the rear shock absorber 122
13 - Rear swingarm 123

Removal of the rear wheel eccentric hub and rear wheel shaft 125
1 - General
Removal of the rear brake disc 127

Refitting the rear brake disc 128
Refitting the rear wheel eccentric hub and rear wheel shaft 129
Removal of the swingarm 133
Inspecting the swingarm pivot 136
Checking swingarm end float 137
Refitting the swingarm 138
14 - Final drive 142

Inspecting the final drive 143
Removing of the front sprocket 144
Refitting the front sprocket 146
Replacing of the rear sprocket 148
Refitting the rear sprocket 149
Washing the chain 150
Lubricating the chain 150
15 - Footrest brackets 151

Removal of the footrest brackets 152
Refitting the footrest brackets 155
16 - Stands 161
Removing of the side stand 162
Refitting the side stand 164
17 - Frame inspection 165

Disassembly of structural components and the frame 166
Removal of the frame 168
Removal of the rear subframe 171
Checking the frame 173
Reassembly of the rear subframe 174
Refitting the rear subframe 176
18 - Tail light-number plate holder and locks 177

Removal of the tail light-protection-number plate holder assembly 178
Refitting the tail light-protection-number plate holder assembly 182
Removal of the seat release mechanism 186
Refitting the seat release mechanism 187
Removal of the number plate holder 189
Refitting the number plate holder 190
Section 8
08 - Fuel/Exhaust System
2 - Fuel tank 3
Removal of the fuel tank 4
Removal of the fuel tank filler cap 7
Refitting the filler cap 7
Removal of the fuel tank flange 8
Refitting the fuel tank flange 9
Refitting the fuel tank 10
6 - Throttle body 19
Removal of the throttle body 20
1 - General
Refitting the throttle body 25
7 - Air intake 31
Removal of the airbox 32
Removal of the oil breather valve 37
Refitting the oil breather valve 37
Refitting the airbox 38
8 - Exhaust system 44
Operating principle of the catalytic converter 46
Removal of the exhaust system 47
Refitting the exhaust system 52
10 - Evaporative emissions canister 58

Evaporative emissions canister system (USA versions only) 59
Removal of the evaporative emissions canister 60
Refitting the evaporative emissions canister 62
Section 9
09 - Engine
1 - Removal–refitting of the engine assembly 4
Removal of the engine 5
Refitting the engine 7
2.1 - Lubrication system: oil pump 9

Removal of the oil pump 10
Disassembly of the oil pump 11
Reassembly of the oil pump 12
Refitting the oil pump 13
2.2 - Lubrication system: oil cooler 14

Removal of the oil cooler 15
Oil cooler inspection 18
Refitting the oil cooler 18
4.1 - Cylinder head assemblies: checks and adjustments 22

Checking and adjusting valve clearances 23
Checking the engine timing 27
4.2 - Cylinder head assemblies: timing belt covers/timing system 29

Removal of the timing belt covers 30
Removal of the timing system assembly 31
Disassembly and reassembly of the timing pulleys 34
Refitting the timing system assembly 35
Refitting the timing belt covers 44
4.3 - Cylinder head assemblies: camshafts 45

Removal of the intake manifolds 47
Refitting the intake manifolds 49
Removal of the side covers 51
Removal of the valve covers 53
Refitting the valve covers 54
Removal of the camshafts 55
1 - General
Inspecting the camshafts 57

Checking the oil seals 57
Refitting the camshafts 58
Refitting side covers 61
4.4 - Cylinder head assemblies: valves - rocker arms 63

Removal of the cylinder head assembly 64
Overhaul of cylinder head components 68
Refitting the cylinder head assembly 76
Refitting the cylinder heads 82
5 - Cylinder/piston assemblies 84
Removal of the cylinder/piston assembly 85
Overhaul of the cylinder barrel/piston components 88
Refitting the cylinder/piston assembly 94
6.1 - Clutch assembly: APTC wet clutch 98

Description of the APTC clutch assembly 99
Removal of the APTC clutch 100
Disassembly of the clutch hub-plates-centre assembly 102
Overhaul and inspection of the APTC clutch components 103
Reassembly of the clutch hub-plates-centre assembly 105
Refitting the APTC clutch 107
6.2 - Clutch assembly: clutch cover 110

Removal of the clutch cover 111
Disassembly of the clutch cover 112
Reassembly of the clutch cover 113
Refitting the clutch cover 114
6.3 - Clutch assembly: primary drive gears 116

Removal of the primary drive gear 117
Refitting the primary drive gears and checking backlash 119
7.1 - Gearbox assembly: gearchange mechanism 122

Removal of the gear selector lever 123
Disassembly of gear interlock plunger and pawl assembly 126
Refitting the pawl assembly and the gear interlock plunger 127
Refitting the gear selector lever 129
7.2 - Gearbox assembly: gearbox shafts 131

Removal of the gearbox assembly 132
Disassembly of the gearbox shafts 134
Overhaul of the gearbox 144
Inspection of the gear selector forks 145
Inspection of the gear selector drum 146
Reassembly of the gearbox shafts 147
Reassembly of the gearbox 151
8 - Flywheel - alternator 152

Removal of the generator cover 154
Disassembly of the generator cover 156
Removal of the flywheel/alternator assembly 157
Checking the flywheel/alternator assembly 159
Refitting the flywheel-alternator assembly 164
Reassembly of the generator cover 166
Refitting the generator cover 167
1 - General
9.1 - Crankcase assembly: external components 174

Removing outer components 176
Refitting the external components 180
Removal of the timing gears 185
Refitting the timing gears 186
Removal of the starter motor idler gear 187
Refitting the starter motor gear 188
9.2 - Crankcase assembly: crankcase halves 189

Separation of the crankcase halves 190
Overhaul of the crankcase halves 193
Overhauling the main bearings 196
Reassembly of the crankcase halves 197
Shimming the shafts 198
9.3 - Crankcase assembly: crankshaft/connecting rods assembly 208

Removal of the crankshaft/connecting rods assembly 209
Disassembly of the crankshaft/connecting rods assembly 210
Overhaul of the connecting rods 210
Reassembly of the connecting rods 215
Refitting the crankshaft/connecting rod assembly 217
1 - General
01 - General
1 - How to use this manual 3
Layout of the manual 4
2 - Symbols - Abbreviations - References 5

Product specifications 6
3 - Hazardous Products - Warnings 8

General safety rules 8
General maintenance indications 9
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How to use this manual
1 -How to use this manual

This manual has been prepared for technical personnel at Ducati Authorized Service Centres with the aim of providing
fundamental information on how to work in accordance with the modern concepts of “best practice” and “safety in the
workplace” during the maintenance, repair or replacement of original components of the cycle parts and engine of this
motorcycle.
All operations described in this manual must be carried out by experienced, skilled technicians, who are required to follow
the Manufacturer's instructions in full.
Some information has been intentionally omitted, as we believe that all specialised technicians should have a basic
technical background. Additional information on how to install various components is provided in the spare parts
catalogue.
Important
This manual also describes the essential checks to be carried out prior to delivery of the motorcycle.
Ducati Motor Holding S.p.A. declines all liability for any technical errors or omissions in this manual and reserves the right
to make changes made necessary by the technical evolution of its products without prior notice.
The information contained herein was correct at the time of going to press.
Important
Reproduction or disclosure of all or part of the contents of this manual is strictly forbidden. All rights on this manual are
reserved for Ducati Motor Holding S.p.A. Applications for authorisation for reproduction must be submitted in writing and
must specify the reasons for such reproduction.
Ducati Motor Holding S.p.A.
Layout of the manual

This manual is divided into sections (1), each identified by a number.
Each section (1) is made up of several chapters (2), which are numbered consecutively.
The chapters (2) may be further subdivided into paragraphs (3).
The manual describes all repair operations starting from the fully assembled motorcycle.
The full procedure is described up to the point in which the motorcycle is restored to its fully assembled starting condition.
Important
Some of the sections of this manual are not present, since the motorcycle in question is not equipped with the relevant
parts.
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How to use this manual
Important
The layout of the manual is designed in such a way as to be applicable to all the different models manufactured by Ducati
Motor Holding.
To facilitate consultation of the manual, the table of contents is identical for all motorcycle models.
Symbols - Abbreviations - References
2 -Symbols - Abbreviations - References

To allow quick and easy consultation, this manual uses graphic symbols to highlight situations in which maximum care is
required, as well as practical advice or information. Pay attention to the meaning of the symbols since they serve to avoid
repeating technical concepts or safety warnings throughout the text. The symbols should therefore be seen as an aid to
memory. Please refer to this page whenever in doubt as to their meaning.
The terms RIGHT-HAND and LEFT-HAND refer to the motorcycle viewed from the riding position.
Warning
Failure to comply with these instructions may put you at risk, and could lead to severe injury or even death.
Important
Failure to follow the instructions in text marked with this symbol can lead to serious damage to the motorcycle and its
components.
Note
This symbol indicates additional useful information for the current operation.
Text references
(X)
References in bold type indicate a part that is not illustrated in the figures next to the text, but which can be found in the
exploded views at the beginning of each chapter.
(X)
References in non-bold type indicate a part that is illustrated in the figures alongside the text.
Product specifications
Symbols in the diagram show the type of thread locker, sealant or lubricant to be used at the points indicated. The table
below shows the symbols used and the specifications of the various products.
Symbol Specifications Recommended product

Engine oil (for characteristics see Sect. 3 - 2, SHELL
Fuel, lubricants and other fluids) Advance Ultra 4
DOT 4 special hydraulic brake fluid. SHELL

Advance Brake DOT 4
SAE 80-90 gear oil or special products for chains SHELL

with O-rings. Advance Chain or Advance Teflon
Chain
Anti-freeze (nitride, amine and phosphate free) SHELL

30 to 40% solution in water. Advance coolant or Glycoshell
GREASE A Multipurpose, medium fibre, lithium grease. SHELL Alvania R3
GREASE B Molybdenum disulphide grease, high mechanical SHELL

stress and high temperature resistant. Retinax HDX2
GREASE C Bearing/joint grease for parts subject to SHELL

prolonged mechanical stress. Temperature range: Retinax LX2
-10 to 110 °C.
GREASE D Protective grease, with anti-corrosive and SHELL
waterproofing properties. Retinax HD2
GREASE E PANKL grease - PLB 05.
GREASE F OPTIMOL grease - PASTE WHITE T.
LOCK 1 Low-strength thread locker. Loctite 222
LOCK 2 Medium-strength threadlocker, compatible with Loctite 243

oil.
LOCK 3 High-strength thread locker for threaded parts. Loctite 270
LOCK 4 Flange sealant resistant to high mechanical stress Loctite 510

and solvents. Resists high temperatures (up to
200 °C) and pressures up to 350 bar; fills gaps
up to 0.4 mm.
LOCK 5 Permanent adhesive for smooth or threaded Loctite 128455
cylindrical fasteners on mechanical parts. High
resistance to mechanical stress and solvents.
Temperature range: -55 to 175 °C.
LOCK 6 Pipe sealant for pipes and medium to large Loctite 577
fasteners. For water and gases (except oxygen).
Maximum filling capacity: diameter clearances up
to 0.40 mm.
LOCK 7 Speed bonder for rubber and plastics with Loctite 480
elastomer charged ethylic base.
LOCK 8 High-strength retaining compound for threaded Loctite 601

parts, bearings, bushes, splines and keys.
Temperature range: -55 to 150 °C.
LOCK 9 Medium-strength threadlocker. Loctite 406
LOCK 10 Product for metal parts to seal and lock cylindrical Loctite 128443
freely sliding or threaded couplings. Resistant to
high mechanical stress and high temperature,
excellent resistance to solvents and chemical
attack.
LOCK 11 Medium-strength threadlocker. Loctite 401
LOCK 12 Instant adhesive gel offering tensile/shear Loctite 454 gel

strength.
DUCATI liquid gasket. 942470014
Exhaust pipe paste. Self-sealing paste, hardens Holts Firegum

when heated; resists temperatures exceeding
1000 °C.
Spray used to protect electric systems. SHELL

Eliminates moisture and condensation and Advance Contact Cleaner
provides excellent corrosion resistance. Water
repellent.
Dry lubricant, polymerising on contact with air. Molykote D321R
Emulsion for lubrication of rubber P 80
Hazardous Products - Warnings
3 -Hazardous Products - Warnings

General safety rules
Carbon monoxide
When a maintenance operation must be performed with the engine running, maker sure that the working area is well-
ventilated. Never run the engine in an enclosed space.
Warning
Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide, which is a poisonous gas that can cause unconsciousness or even death if
inhaled.
Run the engine outdoors or, if working indoors, use an exhaust fume extraction system.
Fuel
Always make sure the working area is well ventilated. Keep any sources of ignition, such as cigarettes, open flames or
sparks, well away from working area and fuel storage area.
Warning
Petrol is highly flammable and can explode under certain conditions. Keep away from children.
Hot parts
Warning
The engine and exhaust parts become hot when the motorcycle engine is running and will stay hot for some time after the
engine has been stopped. Wear heat-resistant gloves before handling these components or allow the engine and exhaust
system to cool down before proceeding.
Warning
The exhaust system might be hot even after engine is switched off; take special care not to touch the exhaust system
with any part of your body and do not park the motorcycle next to inflammable material (wood, leaves, etc.).
Used engine oil
Warning
Prolonged or repeated contact with used engine oil may cause skin cancer. If working with engine oil on a daily basis,
make it a rule to wash your hands thoroughly with soap immediately afterwards. Keep away from children.
Brake pad dust

Never clean the brake assemblies using compressed air or a dry brush.
Brake fluid
Warning
Avoid spilling brake fluid onto plastic, rubber or painted parts of the motorcycle to avoid the risk of damage. Protect these
parts with a clean shop cloth before proceeding to service the motorcycle. Keep away from children.
Battery
Warning
The battery gives off explosive gases; never cause sparks or allow naked flames and cigarettes near the battery. When
charging the battery, ensure that the working area is properly ventilated.
General maintenance indications
Useful tips
Ducati recommends that you follow the instructions below in order to prevent problems and obtain the best end result:
- when diagnosing faults, primary consideration should always be given to what the customer reports about motorcycle
operation since this information can highlight anomalies; your questions to the customer concerning symptoms of the
Hazardous Products - Warnings
fault should be aimed at clarifying the problem;

- diagnose the problem systematically and accurately before proceeding further. This manual provides the theoretical
background for troubleshooting; this basis must be combined with personal experience and attendance at periodic
training courses held by Ducati;
- repair work should be planned carefully in advance to prevent any unnecessary downtime, for example obtaining the
required spare parts or preparing the necessary tools, etc.;
- limit the number of operations needed to access the part to be repaired. Note that the disassembly procedures in this
manual describe the most efficient way to reach the part to be repaired.
General advice on repair work

- Always use top quality tools. When lifting the motorcycle, only use devices that comply fully with the relevant European
directives.
- When working on the motorcycle, always keep the tools within reach, ideally in the order required, and never put them
on the motorcycle or in hard-to-reach or inaccessible places.
- The workplace must be kept clean and tidy at all times.
- Always replace gaskets, sealing rings and split pins with new parts.
- When loosening or tightening nuts or screws, always start with the largest or start from the centre; tighten nuts and
screws to the specified tightening torque working in a crosswise sequence.
- Always mark any parts and positions which might easily be confused at the time of reassembly.
- Use exclusively Ducati original replacement parts and the recommended brands of lubricants.
- Use special service tools where specified.
- Ducati Technical Bulletins often contain updated versions of the service procedures described in this manual. Check the
latest Bulletins for details.

1 - Identification data 3
Monster 796 / 796 ABS identification data 3
Identification data
1 -Identification data
Monster 796 / 796 ABS identification data
Each Ducati motorcycle has two identification numbers -the frame number and the engine number- and an EC nameplate
(A) (NOT PRESENT ON THE US VERSION).
Note
Please quote these numbers, which identify the motorcycle model, when ordering spare parts.
Data stamped on the frame

Europe version
Identification data
1 Manufacturer: Ducati Motor Holding

2 Type, same on all Monster models
3 Variant:
- 03 Full power
- 04 Power limited
4 Version
5 Year of construction (9=2009; A=2010)
6 Manufacturing facility
7 Progressive serial No.
Data stamped on the frame

US version
1 Ducati
2 Motorcycle type
3 Variant – Numeric or X (Check digit)
4 Model year (A=2010)
5 Manufacturing facility
6 Progressive serial No.
Data stamped on engine

Europe version
1 Manufacturer: Ducati Motor Holding
2 Engine type
3 Progressive production No.
Data stamped on engine

US version
1 Engine type
2 Model year
Identification data
3 Progressive production No.
3 - Technical data
03 - Technical data
1.1 - Technical specifications 3
General 3
Colours 4
Transmission 4
Timing system/valves 4
Exhaust system 5
Cylinder/Piston 5
Gearbox 6
Cooling system 6
Front wheel 6
Front suspension 6
Rear wheel 6
Rear suspension 7
Hydraulic brakes 7
Charging system/alternator 8
Ignition system 8
Fuel system 8
Injection system 8
Lights/instrument panel 8
1.2 - Dimensions 9
2 - Fuel, lubricants and other fluids 10
3 - Torque settings 11
Frame torque settings 11
Engine torque settings 17
4 - Service tools 20
Specific tools for the engine 20
Specific tools for the frame 25
Appropriate diagnosis tools 28
Technical specifications
1.1 -Technical specifications

General
Reference Technical specifications
Motorcycle dimensions Total length 2,114 mm
Total width 784 mm
Total height 1,079 mm
Wheelbase 1450 mm
Height of handlebar grip from 1,000 mm

ground
Seat height 800 mm
Front footrest height 357 mm
Rear footrest height 530 mm
Minimum ground clearance 186 mm
Frame Type Chromium-molybdenum tubular trellis frame
Subframe Type Cast aluminium
Steering head angle 24°
Steering angle 32°
Trail 87 mm
Front wheel Light alloy with five spokes
Front suspension SHOWA:

upside-down hydraulic fork, non-adjustable.
Fork legs Ø 43 mm
Travel along leg axis 120 mm
Rear suspension Sachs

The rear suspension system uses a hydraulic
monoshock absorber with rebound and spring
preload adjustment.
Rear wheel travel: 148 mm.
Shock absorber stroke: 59.5 mm.
Front wheel size MT 3.50x17”
Front tyre size 120/70 - ZR 17
Rear wheel Light alloy with five spokes
Rear wheel size MT 5.50x17”
Rear tyre size 180/55 - ZR 17
Type of tyre Radial tubeless tyres
FRONT BRAKE Hydraulic, 2 callipers - with ABS (796 ABS)
Rear brake Hydraulic, 1 calliper - with ABS (796 ABS)
Engine Type Longitudinal 90º “L” twin cylinder, four-stroke.
Bore 88 mm
Stroke 66 mm
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Displacement 803 cm³
Compression ratio 11±0.5:1
Timing system Desmodromic with two valves per cylinder,

operated by four rocker arms (two opening
rockers and two closing rockers) and one
overhead camshaft. The camshaft is driven by
the crankshaft through spur gears, belt rollers
and toothed belts.
Lubrication system Pump-forced
Oil pump type Gear pump
Cooling system Air-cooled
Air filter One filtering element
Crankshaft type One-piece
Cylinder arrangement “L” at 90°
Colours
Description Code no
Ducati Anniversary Red 473.101 (PPG)
Clear lacquer 228.880 (PPG)
Red frame with black wheels
Artic White Semigloss
Artic White Dual Primer L2920057 (Lechler)
Base Pearl White Ducati SF L2909004 (Lechler)
Clear matt lacquer 2K 923I0652 (Palinal)
Diamond Black Semigloss
Base primer 2K black 54M22705 (Akzo Nobel)
Base Diamond Black 57E22714 (Akzo Nobel)
Clear matt lacquer 2K 923I1281 (Palinal)
Transmission
Clutch Wet multiplate
Clutch control Hydraulic
Gearbox 6 speed
Primary drive 33/61
Transmission ratio 1.85
Final drive 15/39
Gearbox type With constant mesh spur gears, operated by a lever on
the left side of the motorcycle
Gear ratios
1 st 13/32
2 nd 18/30
3 rd 21/28
4 th 23/26
5 th 22/22
6 th 26/24
Timing system/valves
Reference Adjusting clearance Checking clearance
Timing diagram With 1 mm valve clearance
Intake Opening 18° B.T.D.C.

Closing 60° A.B.D.C.
Exhaust Opening 53° B.B.D.C.
Closing 23° A.T.D.C.
Intake valve diameter 44 mm
Exhaust valve diameter 38.5 mm
Valve lift With 0 mm valve clearance Intake 11.20 mm
Exhaust 10.80 mm
Opening rocker arm - intake 0.10 to 0.15 mm 0.10 to 0.15 mm
Opening rocker arm - exhaust 0.10 to 0.15 mm 0.10 to 0.15 mm
Closing rocker arm - intake 0 to 0.05 mm 0 to 0.05 mm
Closing rocker arm - exhaust 0 to 0.05 mm 0 to 0.05 mm
Reference Adjusting clearance Reset value
(new belt) (used belt)
Belt tensioning when cold DDS 145±5 Hz (horizontal) 100±5 Hz (horizontal)
160±5 Hz (vertical) 100±5 Hz (vertical)
Limit value of the used belt 70 Hz
(when cold)
Exhaust system
Exhaust Catalytic converter with lambda Euro 3

sensor
Cylinder/Piston
Reference Standard value Service limit
Cylinder barrel Max. bore ovality 0.03 mm
Max. bore taper 0.03 mm
Nominal diameter 88 mm
Size group A 88.000 to 88.010 mm
Size group B 88.010 to 88.020 mm
Size group C 88.020 to 88.030 mm
Piston-to-cylinder bore clearance 0.025 to 0.045 mm
Piston Nominal diameter 88 mm
Size group A 87.965 to 87.975 mm
Size group B 87.975 to 87.985 mm
Size group C 87.985 to 87.995 mm
Connecting rod Connecting-rod big-end 43.67 mm
diameter
Crankshaft - journal diameter Ø 40.017 mm/Ø to
0.016 mm
Gudgeon pin–to-piston clearance 0.015 to 0.024 mm
Nominal diameters Ø 18 mm
Piston Ø 18 mm/0.020 to 0.015
Gudgeon pin Ø 18 mm/0 to 0.004
Gudgeon pin-to-connecting rod 0.028 to 0.041 mm
clearance
Cylinder compression Standard 11 to 13 bar
Minimum min. 10 bar
Maximum permissible max. 2 bar
difference
Gearbox
Gearbox shafts End float 0.05 to 0.020 mm
Selector drum End float 0.10 to 0.040 mm
Gear selector fork Selector fork end thickness 3.90 to 4.00 mm
Selector fork-to-gear clearance 0.070 to 0.285 mm 0.4 mm
Cooling system
Type Air-cooled: heat dispersion through the
extensive finning on the two cylinder
barrel/head assemblies
Front wheel
Minimum tread depth In the most worn part 2 mm
Tyre pressure Cold 2.25 bar
Wheel shaft runout On 100 mm 0.05 mm
Wheel rim runout Radial 1 mm (0.04 in.)
Lateral 0.5 mm (0.02 in.)
Air gap Range 1.3 mm to 1.9 mm
Front suspension
Type SHOWA: 43 mm Ø upside-down hydraulic fork,
non-adjustable
Fork travel 120 mm
Fork Not adjustable.
Oil charge per leg 500 cm3 (per leg)
Rear wheel
Minimum tread depth In the most worn part 2 mm
Tyre pressure Cold 2.50 bar
Swingarm pivot runout On 100 mm 0.2 mm
Wheel rim runout Radial 1 mm (0.04 in.)
Lateral 0.5 mm (0.02 in.)
Drive chain Make REGINA
Type 525 ZR PK
Dimensions 5/8“ x 1/4“
No. of links 108 open
Rear suspension
Type SACHS: progressive monoshock with
adjustable rebound, compression and
spring preload.
Shock absorber Stroke 59.5 mm
Hydraulic damping standard setting. Rebound: 8 clicks
Turn the adjusters fully clockwise until
they stop, then turn them anticlockwise
Spring preload 15 mm
Standard preloaded spring length 150±1 mm
Wheel travel 148 mm
Hydraulic brakes
FRONT
Brake disc Type Drilled dual disc
Shim 4.5 mm 4 mm (min.)

Flange material Steel
Braking surface material Steel
Diameter 320 mm
Brake calliper Make Brembo
Type P4.32K - 4 piston
calliper cylinder diameter 32 mm
Pad friction material FERIT I/D 450-FF
Cylinder Type PS 18/19
Master cylinder diameter 18 mm
REAR
Brake disc Type Drilled disc
Shim 5 mm
Material Steel
Diameter 245 mm
Brake calliper Make Brembo
Type P34C - 2 pistons
Calliper cylinder diameter 34 mm
Pad friction material FERIT I/D 450-FF
Cylinder Type PS11
Master cylinder diameter 11 mm
Charging system/alternator
Battery Voltage 12 V
Charge 10 Ah
Type Sealed, maintenance free
Generator Capacity 12 V - 480 W
Ignition system
Ignition Type Siemens electronic injection
Starting Type Electric starter motor, 12 V - 0.7 kW.
Spark plugs Make and type NGK DCPR8E (or, as an alternative,
CHAMPION RA4HC)
Electrode gap 0.7 to 0.8 mm
Fuel system
Make Type
Unleaded fuel 95-98 RON
Throttle body Ø 45 mm
Injectors per cylinder 1
Holes per injector 8
Injection system
Make Type
Electronic Control Unit Siemens M3C
Lights/instrument panel
Bulbs Low beam H7 (12 V - 55 W)

High beam H1 (12 V - 55 W)
Number plate light C5W (12 V - 5 W)
Side light H6 (12 V - 6 W)
Turn signal light RY10W (12 V - 10 W)
Tail light and brake light Led (13.5 V - 3.2 W /
0.1 W)
Fuses Regulator 30 A
Instrument panel 5A
Injection 20 A
Key ON 10 A
ECU 5A
LOADS 15 A
High beam and low beam headlights, 15 A
parking lights
Spare 20 A
Spare 15 A
Dimensions
1.2 -Dimensions
file:///D|/Manuales/Para%20recolocar/MOTOS/DUCATI/DUCATI/M796/wsm/EN/M796_ABS_11_3_1B.10.1.html[11/12/2015 18:40:10]
Fuel, lubricants and other fluids
2 -Fuel, lubricants and other fluids
Fluids and lubricants Type dm³ (litres)

Fuel tank, including a reserve of 3.5 Unleaded fuel with an octane rating of at 15
dm 3 (litres) least 95-98 RON
Sump and filter SHELL Advance Ultra 4 3.7

Front/rear brake and clutch circuits SHELL Advance Brake DOT 4
Protection for electrical contacts SHELL Advance Contact Cleaner
Front fork SHELL ADVANCE FORK 7.5 or DONAX TA. 500 cm3 (per leg)
Important
Do not use additives in fuel or lubricants.
Engine oil
A good quality engine oil has special properties. Use only a highly detergent engine oil with certified SE, SF or SG or
higher service ratings as marked on the container.
Oil viscosity
SAE 15W-50
The other viscosity grades specified in the table can be used where the average ambient temperatures are within the
limits shown.
Torque settings
3 -Torque settings
Frame torque settings
Part Thread/pitch (mm) Nm ±10% Note

Tolerance
Headlight fairing
Screw securing Plexiglas to headlight fairing M4x0.7 0.2 Wellnut fixing
Screw securing headlight fairing bracket to M6x1

headlight support
Lower screws initial tightening 1.5
Upper screws final tightening 8
Lower screws final tightening 8
Screw securing headlight fairing to bracket M5x0.8 5
Rear-view mirror screw M8x1.25 25
Side stand
Nut securing side stand rotation pivot screw M10x1.25 20
Screw securing side stand bracket to crankcase M10x1.5 36 LOCK 2
Stand sensor screw M6x1 5 LOCK 2
Front sprocket
Front sprocket retaining screw M25x1.5

186 *
Front sprocket cover screw M6x1 6
Lights and reflectors
Screw securing headlight to support M5x0.8 5 LOCK 2
Screw securing headlight support to bottom M6x1 10

yoke
Screw securing front turn indicator to headlight M5x0.8 3 LOCK 2

support
Screw securing headlight to support M5x0.8 3
Instruments
Screw securing instrument panel to support 3
Instrument panel cover retaining screw M4x0.7 1.5
Front Fork
Steering shaft nut M35x1 GREASE B

30 *
Screw securing front brake hose guide to M6x1 8 LOCK 2
bottom yoke
Steering limit lock nut M8x1.25 18 LOCK 2 (apply Loctite

to nut thread only)
Screw securing steering head to pivot M8x1.25 GREASE B

24 *
Bottom yoke to fork retaining screws (RH + LH) M8x1.25 GREASE B
22 * In the sequence 1-2-
1
Fork bottom end retaining screws (RH + LH) M8x1.25 GREASE B

18 * In the sequence 1-2-
Torque settings
Nut securing clamp to steering head M10x1.25

45 *
Screws securing brake/clutch hose guide to M6x1 10 LOCK 2
steering head
Screw securing headlight support plate to M6x1 10 LOCK 2

steering head
Electric system
Screws securing coil to battery support M5x0.8 5
RH/LH handlebar switch screw M5x0.8 2.5
Screw securing battery lead to battery terminal M6x1 10
Nut securing contactor cable to starter motor M6x1 5 GREASE C
Nut securing battery leads/starter motor to M6x1 4

contactor
Speed sensor retaining screw (796) M6x1 10
Nut securing battery support to airbox M5x0.8 5
Screws securing ECU to airbox M6x1 10
Screw securing earth cable to engine M6x1 10
Screw securing relay support to battery support M5x0.8 2
Screw securing battery support/airbox to frame M6x1 10
Oil pressure sensor wiring clamp screw M6x1 10 LOCK 2
ABS control unit to bracket retaining screw M6x1 8±2

(796 ABS)
ABS sensor retaining screw (front + rear) (796 M6x1 7 LOCK 2

ABS)
ABS control unit bracket to airbox retaining M6x1 10

screw (796 ABS)
ABS fuse bracket retaining screw (796 ABS) M5x0.8 7
Front brake
Screw securing front brake master cylinder to M6x1 10 Sequence 1 (UP)-2-1

handlebar
Front/rear brake bleed valve M10x1 23
Front brake calliper retaining screws (RH + LH) M10x1.25 GREASE B

45 *
Front brake calliper initial tightening for bedding M10x1.25 2 GREASE B
(RH + LH)
Coupling to brake master cylinder retaining M10x1 23

screw (796 ABS)
ABS control unit to unions retaining screw (796 M10x1 23

ABS)
Brake calliper bleeder retainer (RH/LH) (796 M6x1 4

ABS)
Rear swingarm
Calliper mounting bracket peg fastener M12x1.25 LOCK 8

33 *
Lower grommet/chain slider to swinging arm M5x0.8 5 LOCK 2
fastener
Torque settings
Swinging arm pivot fastener M8x1.25 GREASE B

18 *
Chain tensioner eccentric fastener M12x1.25 GREASE B in the
31 * sequence 1-2-1
Speed sensor wiring clamp fastener M4x0.7 1 LOCK 2
Grommet and lower hose guide to swinging arm M5x0.8 5

fastener (796 ABS)
Upper chain slider fastener (796 ABS) M5x0.8 5
Chain guard to chain slider fastener 1.2 Australia version only
Rear brake
Brake hose couplings to master cylinder/calliper M10x1 23

fastener
Screws securing rear brake fluid reservoir to M6x1 2

subframe
Rear brake calliper screw M8x1.25 GREASE B

25 *
Rear brake master cylinder screw M6x1 10 LOCK 2
Screw securing rear brake hose guide to M5x0.8 5 LOCK 2

swingarm
Hose guide on vertical cylinder head retaining M6x1 10

screw (796 ABS)
Hose guide on crankcase fastener (796 ABS) M6x1
Hose guide on crankcase screw tightening (796 AF 3.5 0.4

ABS)
Number Plate Holder
Screw securing rear turn indicators to number M5x0.8 3 LOCK 2

plate holder
screw securing upper to lower number plate M5x0.8 3.5

holder
Tail light self-tapping screws 3
Bold/nut securing X plate to number plate M6x1 5 LOCK 2

holder
Reflector nut M4x0.7 2
Number plate holder to protection fastener M6x1 5 LOCK 2

(Australia version only)
Handlebar clutch lever
Handlebar clamp screw M8x1.25 GREASE B

25 * Sequence 1-2-3-4-3
Clutch bleed valve M6x1 4
Clutch hose connector M10x1 23
clutch transmission unit screw M6x1 10 Sequence 1-2-3-1
Throttle twistgrip fixing screw M6x1 6 Sequence 1 (UP)-2-1
Clutch master cylinder screw M6x1 10 Sequence 1 (UP)-2-1
Throttle twistgrip housing screw M4x0.7 1.8
Throttle control cable retainer screw M10x1.25 4
Throttle control cable adjuster lock nut M6x1 2.5
Torque settings
Rear suspension
Nut/screw securing shock absorber to mounting M10x1.25 GREASE B

clevis 42 *
Screw securing shock absorber to swing arm M10x1.5 GREASE B
42 *
Front mudguard
Front mudguard retaining screw M6x1 5 LOCK 2
Front pipe grommet to mudguard fixing screw AF 3.5 0.35
Rear mudguard
Rear mudguard retaining screw M5x0.8 5 LOCK 2
Rear mudguard to brake pipe grommet M5x0.8 5 LOCK 2

retaining screw (796 ABS)
Front wheel
Brake disc screw M8x1.25 LOCK 2

25 *
Front wheel nut M25x1.25 GREASE B
63 *
Rear wheel
Brake disc screw M8x1.25 LOCK 2

25 *
Rear sprocket nut M10x1.25 48 LOCK 2
Rear sprocket side wheel shaft retaining nut M33x1.5 GREASE B

(LH) 156 *
Rim side wheel shaft retaining nut (RH) M38x1.5 GREASE B
176 *
screws securing driving pins M6x1 11 LOCK 2
Phonic wheel retaining screw (796 ABS) M5x0.8 5
Footrests and Levers
Screws securing front footrest brackets to M12x1.25 GREASE B

swingarm pivot 55 *
Brake side
Brake lever pivot screw on RH footrest bracket M8x1.25 24 LOCK 2
Rear stop switch M6x1 5
Brake master cylinder pushrod retaining nut M6x1 7.5
Screw securing footrest bracket to engine (RH M10x1.5 36

side)
Brake lever adjuster lock nut M6x1 2.3
Gearshift side
RH lock nut for gearchange linkage pivot M6x1 5 LOCK 2
Screw securing footrest bracket to engine (LH M10x1.5 36

side)
LH lock nut for gearchange linkage pivot M6x1 5 LOCK 2
Screw/nut securing gearchange linkage pivot to M6x1 10

gearchange lever
Screw securing gearchange lever to selector M6x1 10 LOCK 1

claw
Torque settings
Gearchange pedal pivot screw M8x1.25 24 LOCK 2
Fuel tank
Screw securing fuel tank support brackets to M6x1 8

fuel tank
Screw securing fuel pipe guide to fuel tank M5x0.8 5
Screw securing flange to fuel tank M5x0.8 5 LOCK 2
Tank filler cap screw M5x0.8 3
Special screw (twin male thread) securing M5x0.8 5 LOCK 2

flange to fuel tank
Flange cover retaining nut M5x0.8 3
Screw securing fuel tank side covers and M5x0.8 2 LOCK 1

central cover to fuel filler cap
Screw securing front central clip cover to side M5x0.8 2 LOCK 1

covers
Screws securing tank side covers to fuel tank M5x0.8 2 LOCK 1

(lower side)
Screw securing cover to fuel tank (hidden) M5x0.8 2 LOCK 1
Exhaust
Screw securing exhaust crosspiece to support M6x1 5

under RH footrest
Exhaust secondary to RH footrest bracket and M6x1 5

to tank/exhaust support bracket (LH) retaining
screw (796 ABS)
(Horizontal/vertical) exhaust pipe clamp M8x1.25 11

fastener
Screws securing silencers to subframe M6x1 10
Nut securing exhaust pipe flange to horizontal/ M8x1.25

vertical cylinder head
1 st nut initial tightening 6
24
2 nd nut final tightening 24
1 st nut final tightening
1/8“ gas stainless steel plugs to exhaust pipes M10x1.25 25
Rear screw securing heat shield to silencer M6x1 10 LOCK 5
Screw securing silencer to silencer support on M8x 1.25 22

subframe
Lambda sensor fixing 45
Front screw securing heat shield to silencer M6x1 8 LOCK 2
Screw securing heat shield to horizontal M6x1 8 LOCK 2

exhaust
Exhaust valve cover screw M6x1 10
Exhaust secondary to tank/exhaust support M6x1 10

bracket (RH) retaining screw (796 ABS)
Seat
Seat retaining screw M6x1 5
Frame
Nut securing subframe/frame to engine M12x1.25 GREASE B

60 *
Torque settings
Screw securing subframe to frame M12x1.25 GREASE B

60 *
Nut on free play adjuster screw M25x1 GREASE B
100 *
Free play adjuster screw 0.6 GREASE B (on thread
only)
Screw securing LH side fuel tank pin to frame M6x1 10
Keyswitch cover cap nut M6x1 7
Keyswitch screw M6x1 Tighten down the

screw until head
fails – solid
threadlocker
Screw securing horn bracket to frame M6x1 10 LOCK 2
Screws securing fuel tank support plate to M6x1 10

subframe
Screws securing subframe joining plate M8x1.25 22
screws securing subframe joining plate to rear M6x1 8

tile assembly
Screws securing exhaust support plate to fuel M6x1 5

tank support plate
Screw securing fuel tank to bracket on rear M8x1.25 10 LOCK 1

subframe
Seat lock nut M22x1.5 3
Screw securing under seat storage M5x0.8 5

compartment
Screw securing latch to subframe joining M6x1 10

bracket
Screw securing wiring clips to RH rear subframe M4x0.7 2
Nut securing shock absorber upper mounting M10x1.25 GREASE B

clevis to subframe 42 *
Exhaust valve actuator retaining screw M6x1 10
Oil cooler
Radiator fixing screw M6x1 10
Oil hose grommet retaining screw M6x1 10
Oil cooler nipple to cooler fastener M14x1.5 23 LOCK 1
Oil pipe union to cooler nipple fastener with O- M16x1.5 Engine oil
ring (TWIN SEAL) 18 *
Oil pipe union to casing nipple fastener with O- M16x1.5 Engine oil
ring (TWIN SEAL) 25 *
Thermistor fixing 10 LOCK 4
Air intake oil breather
Screws securing filter cover to airbox M5x0.8 5
Air filter retaining nut M6x1 6
Screws securing airbox to frame M6x1 10
Clamp securing oil breather valve hose to blow- 1.5

by valve
Clamp securing blow-by valve hose to airbox 1.5
screw securing coil to airbox M5x0.8 5
Torque settings
Screw securing cable guide to LH side of M6x1 10

crankcase
Clamp securing hoses to airbox 1.1
Cable guide to LH side of crankcase fastener M5x0.8 5
EVAP system canister filter
Screws securing temperature sensor to intake M3x0.5 0.4 LOCK 9

hose
Clamp securing hose to throttle body 1.5
Clamp securing throttle body to intake manifold 1.5
Stepper tube clamp tightening 10
Canister fixing to LH air cowling M6x1 8 For USA version only.
Fairings
Lower screw fixing RH and LH deflector to M5x0.8 5

frame
Screw fixing RH and LH deflector to central air M5x0.8 5

cowling
Upper screw fixing RH and LH deflector to M5x0.8 5

frame
Screw securing voltage regulator to RH air M6x1 8

cowling
Generator cover retaining screw M5x0.8 5
* dynamic safety-critical point; tightening torque must be within Nm ±5%.
Note
For product specifications and symbols, refer to “Product specifications” (Sect. 1 - 2).
Engine torque settings

Part Thread/pitch (mm) Nm Min. Max. Note
Camshaft timing belt pulley nut M15x1 71 64 78 GREASE A
Cylinder head nut: M10x1.5 Apply GREASE C to
Snug torque 15 13 17 the underside and the
Preload torque 30 28 32 thread of the stud
Tightening torque 48 46 50 screw
Intake flange stud M8x1.25 15 13 17 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Intake manifold nut M8x1.25 23 20 26
Exhaust flange stud M8x1.25 15 13 17 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Timing hole cover M8x1.25 10 9 11
Vertical cylinder oil temperature sensor M8x1.5 9 8.5 9.5
Cylinder head service screw (aluminium) M6x1 3 2 3 LOCK 5
Intake/exhaust valve cover screws M6x1 10 9 11
Valve cover screws M6x1 10 9 11 LOCK 2
Timing belt cover screw M6x1 10 9 11 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Timing belt cover screw M6x1 10 9 11 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Pulley flange retaining screw M6x1 10 9 11
Canister plug screw M6x1 5 4 6
Pick-up filter housing plug M32x1.5 42 38 46
Oil pick-up filter M22x1.5 42 38 46
Canister nipple (USA version) M6x1 5 4 6
MAP sensor coupling screw M5x0.8 5 4 6
Oil cartridge nipple M16x1.5 42 38 46 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Oil cartridge M16x1.5 11 10 12 Engine oil on the
Torque settings
gasket
Oil pump intake service hole plug M15x1 25 22 28 LOCK 5
Oil cooler nipple M14x1.5 32 29 35 LOCK 5
Oil drain plug with magnet M12x1.5 20 18 22 TB1215
Blow-by hole service plug M12x1 15 13 17 LOCK 5
Main oil way plug M10x1.5 15 13 17 LOCK 5 or TB1375B
Clutch cover inner oilway screw M10x1.5 15 13 17 LOCK 5
Cylinder barrel/head stud M10x1.5 30 28 32 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Neutral warning light switch M10x1.5 10 9 11
Taper blanking plug for service hole M10x1 20 18 22 LOCK 5
Oil pump adapter screw M10x1 LOCK 5
Crankcase screw M8x1.25 Apply GREASE B to
Initial tightening 19 17 21 thread
Final tightening 25 22 28
Gear stop lever screw M8x1.25 18 16 20 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Crankcase screw M6x1 10 9 11
Blow-by valve screw M6x1 10 9 11
Radial pick-up screw M6x1 10 9 11
Clutch side primary bearing retaining plate M6x1 10 9 11 LOCK 2 or TB1324
screw
Chain side secondary bearing plate retaining M6x1 10 9 11 LOCK 2 or TB1324
screw
Idler gear shaft retaining screw M6x1 10 9 11 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Adler clutch oil calibration screw M6 6 5 7
Starter motor mounting screw M6x1 10 9 11 LOCK 2
Outer starter motor mounting screw M6x1 10 9 11 LOCK 2
Flywheel nut M24x1 270 256 284 LOCK 5
Primary drive gear nut M22x1 190 171 209 GREASE B
Steel/aluminium crankshaft blanking cap M20x1 15 13.5 16.5 LOCK 5
Connecting rod screw M10x1 Apply GREASE B to
Tighten at 50 rpm 35 thread
2 second pause, then back off through
360° at 30 rpm
Tighten at 30 rpm 20
Tighten at 10 rpm 35
Tighten at 14 rpm 65º ±1º
Torque check 70÷103
Crankshaft grub screw M8x1.25 13 11 15 LOCK 5
Drilled crankshaft grub screw M8x1.25 13 11 15 LOCK 5
Selector drum locating screw M16x1.5 30 27 33
Selector claw screw M8x1.25 36 34 38 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Selector claw locator nut M6x1 10 9 11
Selector claw screw M6x1 16 15 17 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Timing belt driveshaft pulley retaining nut M15x1 71 64 78 GREASE A
Timing belt driveshaft gear nut M14x1 55 50 60 GREASE A
Tensioner pulley retaining screw M8x1.25 26 23 29
Idler pulley retaining screw M8x1 20 18 22 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Plastic cover screw M6x1 10 9 11
Wet clutch centre nut M25x1.5 190 180 200 GREASE B
Oil filler plug M20x2.5 FULLY HOME
Soundproofing gasket fixing screw M14x1.5 24 22 26 LOCK 5
Pick-up sensor inspection screw M12x1 15 13 17 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Oil way blanking plug M10x1 20 18 22 LOCK 5
Oil pressure sensor M10x1 19 17 21
Wet clutch cover screw M6x1 10 9 11
Wet clutch spring screw M6x1 10 9 11
Spark plug M12x1.25 20 18 22
Generator cover screw M6x1 13.5 12.5 14.5
Generator stator retaining screw M6x1 10 9 11 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Alternator rotor/flywheel screw M6x1 13 11 15 LOCK 5
Torque settings
Stator wiring clamp bracket screw M5x0.8 5 4.5 5.5 LOCK 2 or TB1324
By-pass pump cap M15x1 17 15 19 LOCK 5 or TB1375B
Oil pump retaining screw M8x1.25 26 23 29
Oil pump retaining screw M6x1 10 9 11
Oil pump assembly screw M6x1 10 9 11
Special generator cover to stud screw M6x1 13.5 12.5 14.5
retaining screw
Timing inspection cover screw M6x1 5 4.5 5.5
Note
For product specifications and symbols, refer to paragraph “Product specifications” (sect. 1 - 2).
Service tools
4 -Service tools
Spare parts catalogue
796 WORKSHOP SERVICE TOOLS

796 ABS WORKSHOP SERVICE TOOLS
Specific tools for the engine

Code no. Description
88713.1805 Tool for tightening timing belt driveshaft pulley
88713.3218 Timing belt pulley locking tool
88713.2423 Torque wrench for tightening front sprocket nut
88713.2676 Wrench for tightening cylinder head nuts
88713.2103 Stand for cylinder head assembly
88713.2651 Wet clutch housing service tool
Service tools
88713.0123 Timing check tool
97900.0215 DDS (Ducati Diagnosis System) + cylinder vacuum meter kit
88713.0137 Front sprocket holding wrench
88765.1581 Valve lift gauge
88713.2878 Spacer and fork feeler gauge 0.2/0.3 mm
88713.2916 Tool for fitting spring and closing rocker
88713.2282 Pulley holding tool
88713.2011 Crankshaft holding tool
Service tools
88700.5749 Crankcase half assembly cap
88713.3334 Plate for gear selector fork positioning
88713.1749 Puller for drive pulley and cover
88765.1297 TDC gauge
88713.2092 Primary drive gears puller
88713.1010 Exhaust gases pick-up connector
88713.3367 Flywheel tool
88713.2442 Valve sealing ring installer Ø 7
Service tools
88713.2906 Oil filter cartridge wrench
88713.2556 Clutch drum holding tool
88713.2591 Clutch screw
88713.3396 Engine repair bench
88713.1994 Rocker arm shafts puller
88713.3394 Punch and sleeve for refitting the camshaft circlip
88713.2355 Timing belt pulley locking tool

Specific tools for the frame
Service tools
88713.1072 Drift to install half bearing in bottom yoke
88713.1344 Chain assembly tool
8000.70139 Front wheel shaft wrench
88713.1096 Tool for forks overhaul - sealing ring installation
88713.1058 Wrench for steering shaft nut
88713.1062 Tool for installing steering head bearings
88713.1010 Exhaust gases pick-up connector
88713.3166 Wrench for tightening frame ring nut
Service tools
88713.0958 Draw bar for SHOWA fork overhauling
88713.0957 Retainer for SHOWA fork spacer
88713.1068 Drift for installing the swingarm needle roller bearings
88713.1038 Wrench for adjustment of the eccentric hub
88713.1073 Rear wheel balancing tool
88713.2409 Swingarm ball bearing installer
88713.1071 Drift for installing the rocker arm needle roller bearings
Service tools
796 DDS TESTER

796 ABS DDS TESTER
Appropriate diagnosis tools

97900.0211 DDS (Ducati Diagnosis System) without cables
97900.0227S SIEMENS power and diagnostic cable
97900.0222 Power cable and diagnosis 1060838 (Measurement Module)
97900.0218 Vacuum sensor
552.1.039.1A Pressure sensor
97900.0220 Pressure/vacuum tube
97900.0221 Union
Service tools
97900.0228 Battery socket adapter
814.1.114.1A Oil pressure coupling
514.1.032.1A Auxiliary test cable
552.1.038.1A Cylinder compression cable M10 fitting
875.1.065.1A Oil pressure tube
97900.0230 Feeder
97900.0224 Feeder
Service tools
88765.1371 Belt tensioning sensor
88765.1374 Belt tensioning sensor bracket
590.1.189.1A Fuel pressure tube
88765.1126V Clamp-type amperemeter
4 - Impianto elettrico
1 - Vehicle pre-delivery 3
2 - Routine maintenance table 4
Scheduled maintenance chart: operations to be carried out by the dealer 4
Scheduled maintenance chart: operations to be carried out by the customer 5
3 - Maintenance operations 6
Checking the engine oil level 6
Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge 6
Checking valve clearances 9
Changing and cleaning the air filters 14
Changing the brake fluid 16
Draining the brake circuit 21
Filling the brake system with fluid 23
Changing the clutch fluid 26
Draining the clutch hydraulic circuit 28
Filling the clutch circuit 30
Adjusting the chain tension 34
Checking brake pad wear and changing brake pads 35
Adjusting the clutch lever and front brake lever 40
Adjusting the position of the gear change and rear brake pedals 41
Adjusting the rear shock absorber 42
Adjusting the exhaust valve bowden cable 44
Fitting a new motor and new cable 47
Fitting a new exhaust valve cable with used motor 53
Fitting a new exhaust valve motor with used cable 60
Vehicle pre-delivery
1 -Vehicle pre-delivery
1 Check the condition of the shipping packaging (if present):
2 Remove from shipping packaging (if present);
3 Check the condition of the motorcycle:
4 Make sure the kit supplied is complete (use the list enclosed to the motorcycle packaging);
5 Installation of the kit supplied, following the instructions enclosed to the vehicle;
6 Only if motorcycle is inside a crate;
7 Installation of accessories according to Customer's order and check if they work;
8 Setting the battery and installation on the vehicle;
9 Check tyre pressure:
- Front: 2.25 bar;
- Rear: 2.5 bar;
10 Check brake and clutch fluid level (top up, if necessary);
11 Check engine oil level (top up, if necessary);
12 Check if the lights, the turn indicators and the horn are working correctly; Check the height of the headlight beam;
13 Make sure the active and passive keys are working, as well as the steering lock to the right and to the left;
14 Check if the throttle control is working;
15 Check the tightening torque of the front and rear wheel shafts (Front: 63 Nm±5% - Rear LH: 156±5% - Rear RH:
176±5%);
16 Check the tightening torque of the brake calliper retaining screws (Front 45 Nm±5% - Rear 25 Nm±5%);
17 Top-up with fuel until reserve light switching off (approx. 3.5 liters);
18 Make sure that the engine stop switch and the side stand switch are working correctly;
19 Final inspection and road test (check ABS activation, if present);
20 Clean the vehicle;
21 Fill in the on-board documentation (warranty card);
Routine maintenance table
2 -Routine maintenance table

Scheduled maintenance chart: operations to be carried out by the dealer
List of operations and type of intervention km x1000 1 12 24 36 48 60

[set mileage (km/mi) or time interval *] miles x1000 0.6 7.5 15 22.5 30 37.5
Months 6 12 24 36 48 60
Change the engine oil • • • • • •
Change the engine oil filter • • • • • •
Clean the engine oil intake filter •
Check engine oil pressure • •
Check/adjust the valve clearances (1) • • • • •
Check the tension of the timing belts (1) • • •
Renew the timing belts • •
Check and clean the spark plugs. Renew if necessary • •
Check and clean air filter (1) • • •
Change the air filter • •
Check throttle body synchronisation and idling (1) • • • • •
Check the brake and clutch fluid levels • • • • • •
Change the clutch and brake fluid •
Check and adjust the brake and clutch control cables • • • • •
Check/lubricate the throttle/choke cables • • • • •
Check tyre pressure and wear • • • • • •
Check the brake pads. Renew if necessary • • • • • •
Check the steering head bearings • •
Check the drive chain tension, alignment and lubrication • • • • • •
Check the clutch plates pack. Change, if necessary (1) • • • • •
Check the rear wheel cush drive • •
Check the wheel hub bearings • •
Check the indicators and lighting • • • •
•
Check tightness of nuts and screw securing the engine to the frame • • • •
•
Check the side stand • • • •
•
Check tightness of the front wheel shaft nut • • • •
•
Check tightness of the rear wheel shaft nut • • • •
•
Check the external fuel hoses • • • •
•
Change the front fork fluid •
Check the forks and rear shock absorber for oil leaks • • • • •
Check the front sprocket retaining bolts • • • • •
General lubrication and greasing • • • • •
Check and recharge the battery • • • • •
Road test the motorcycle • • • • • •
General cleaning • • • • •
* Service operation to be carried out in accordance with the specified distance or time intervals (km, miles or months),
whichever occurs first.
(1) Operation to be carried out only at the specified distance intervals.
Scheduled maintenance chart: operations to be carried out by the customer
List of operations and type of intervention km x1000 1

[set mileage (km/mi) or time interval *] miles x1000 0.6
Months 6
Checking the engine oil level •
Check the brake and clutch fluid levels •
Check tyre pressure and wear •
Check the drive chain tension and lubrication •
Routine maintenance table
Check the brake pads. If necessary, contact your dealer to renew pads •
* Service operation to be carried out in accordance with the specified distance or time intervals (km, miles or months),
whichever occurs first.
Maintenance operations
3 -Maintenance operations
Checking the engine oil level
Check the engine oil level through the sight glass (1) on the right-hand side of the oil sump.
Stop the engine and allow a few minutes for the oil to settle to a steady level. Check the level with the motorcycle
perfectly vertical and with the engine warm (but not running).
The oil must be between the MIN and MAX marks. If the level is low, top it up. Remove the filler cap (2) and top up with
the recommended oil.
Refit the filler plug (2).
Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge
Note
Change the oil when the engine is warm (but with the engine stopped). In these conditions the oil is more fluid and will
drain more rapidly and completely.
Remove the drain plug (3) with gasket (A) from the oil sump and allow the oil to drain off.
Warning
Dispose of oil and/or filter cartridges in compliance with environmental protection regulations.
Remove any metallic deposits from the end of the magnetic drain plug. Refit the drain plug complete with seal (A) to the
sump.
Tighten the plug (3) to a torque of 42 Nm (Min. 38 Nm - Max. 46 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings).
Remove the oil sump filter cartridge (4) using service tool 88713.2906.
Important
Dispose of the used cartridge, do not attempt to reutilise it.
Fit a new cartridge (4) using service tool 88713.2906: lubricate the gasket with engine oil.
Note
It is advisable to fill the filter cartridge (4) with engine oil before installing it: this enables the recommended oil level to be
maintained without topping up.
Install the cartridge in its housing and tighten it to a torque of 11 Nm (Min. 10 Nm - Max. 12 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine
torque settings).
Every two oil changes, clean the oil pickup gauze filter.
Remove the outer plug (5).
Unscrew the filter (7) and withdraw it from the crankcase.
Clean the filter with petrol and compressed air. Take care not to damage the gauze.
Replace the mesh filter (7), fit the seal (6) to the plug (5) and tighten to a torque of 42 Nm (Min. 38 Nm - Max. 46 Nm)
(Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings).
Remove the filler plug (2) and top-up with the specified oil type (Sect. 3 - 2, Fuel, lubricants and other fluids)
up to reaching the notch of MAX level on the sight glass.
Refit the filler cap (2). Run the engine at idle speed for a few minutes.
Check for oil leaks. Check that the oil pressure light on the instrument panel switches off a few seconds after the engine
starts. If not, switch off the engine and trace the fault.
After a few minutes, check that the oil level is the specified one; if necessary, restore the MAX level.
Refit all parts removed.
Checking valve clearances

In order to check the valve clearances, it is necessary to gain access to the four valve covers on the cylinder heads and
then remove the parts listed below.
Open the lock and simultaneously apply downward pressure in the area of the catch to release the pin; Pull the seat
backwards to release it from the front catches and remove it.
Remove the tank covers (Sect. 5 - 2, Removal of the fuel tank fairings).
Unscrew the side screw (1) securing tank to the frame and recover the washer (2).
Unscrew the rear screw (3) securing tank and recover the washer (4).
Raise the tank but leave it connected to the fuel system and wiring then position it on the side, duly supported, to be able
to work on the valve covers (5) of the vertical head.
Note
In the ABS version loosen and remove the two retaining screws (A) and the bracket (B).
Loosen the screws (6) and remove the deflectors (7) and (8) and conveyor (9).
Loosen the screw (10) and recover the spacer (11) and the rubber mounting (12).
Slide the oil cooler (13) off the pins of the frame, towards the clutch-side of the motorcycle.
Unscrew the screws securing the horizontal head covers (5) and the vertical head ones then remove the covers.
Unscrew the two retaining screws (14) of the centre cap (15) over the end of the crankshaft.
Fit the tool handgrip 88713.0123 in the holes of the generator cover to be able to turn the crankshaft so that the valve
on which the control is carried out is in rest position.
With the valve in the rest position, slide a feeler gauge between the opening rocker and the opening shim to measure the
clearance.
The clearances must be within the specified limits:
Opening rocker arm
INTAKE: (A)
Adjusting clearance 0.10 to 0.15 mm
Checking clearance 0.10 to 0.15 mm
EXHAUST: (A)
Adjusting clearance 0.10 to 0.15 mm
Checking clearance 0.10 to 0.15 mm
With the valve in the rest position, slide a feeler gauge between the closing rocker arm and the closing shim to measure
the clearance:
Closing rocker arm
INTAKE: (B)
Adjusting clearance 0 to 0.05 mm
Checking clearance 0 to 0.05 mm
EXHAUST: (B)
Adjusting clearance 0 to 0.05 mm
Checking clearance 0 to 0.05 mm
If detected values exceed the specified limits, replace opening and/or closing shims, as described in paragraph “Removal
of the rocker arms, shims and valves” (sect. 9 - 4.4), with an adequate height to obtain the specified clearance.
Note
Opening rocker arm shims measuring from 1.8 to 3.45 mm and closing rocker arm shims measuring from 2.2 to 4.5 are
available as spare parts. the size is punched on the shim.
Refit all the removed parts in the reverse order to that in which they were removed.
Changing and cleaning the air filters

The air filter must be replaced at the intervals described in the “Routine maintenance table” (Sect. 4 - 2).
Remove tank covers (Sect. 5 - 2, Removal of the fuel tank fairings).

Remove the fuel tank (Sect. 8 - 2, Removal of the fuel tank).
Unscrew the three screws (1) securing the filter cover (2).
Remove the filter cover (2) complete with the filter cartridge.
Remove the filter cartridge (3) from the cover (2) by unscrewing the screw (4).
The filter cartridge can be cleaned with a jet of compressed air or renewed as necessary.
Important
A clogged air filter will reduce air intake and engine power, increase fuel consumption and cause a build up of deposits on
the spark plugs. Do not run the engine without the air filter. This will draw foreign material present in the air into the
engine and may damage the engine.
Install the cartridge in the airbox cover and refit all the removed parts; tighten the screws (1) to a torque of 5 Nm ±10%
and the screw (4) to a torque of 6 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Important
If the motorcycle is used in very damp or dusty conditions, the air filter cartridge must be changed more frequently.
Changing the brake fluid
Warning
Brake fluid is corrosive and will damage paintwork. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. In the case of accidental contact,
wash the affected area thoroughly with plenty of running water.
Changing the fluid in the front brake circuit

Remove the cover with membrane (1) of the front brake fluid reservoir (2) by unscrewing the screws (3).
Siphon off the fluid from the reservoir (2).
Replace the membrane (without the plug) on the tank to avoid brake fluid splashes during the following operations.
Move the brake callipers pistons back: to carry out this operation unscrew the fixing screws (4) of the callipers on the fork
plates and push, by removing them from each other, both pads from every calliper; during this operation be careful with
the fluid level, that must always be aspirated each time that it flows back in the tank.
Once that all pistons of both callipers are fully moved back and that all the liquid in the tank has been aspirated, connect
to the bleed valve (5) a transparent tube by immersing the end in a container placed on the floor.
Fill the reservoir (2) with new brake fluid up to the MAX mark.
Operate the lever to reach the 20-30 mm end of stroke and keep the lever in this position by using a non-elastic clamp.
Loosen the bleed valve of the left calliper (from the rider view) (5) and then take the lever through the whole stroke to
allow fluid to escape.
The lever is supported to the grip.
Tighten the bleed valve (5) to a torque of 4 Nm ± 10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings) then release the lever.
Repeat the operation described above until the old liquid flows completely.
Then, with the bleed valve definitely closed to the specified torque actuate repeatedly the lever until a pressure is
detected in the brake system.
Warning
After eliminating the old fluid from the tank, during the refilling operation always keep the oil level above the MIN mark to
prevent the formation of air bubbles inside the circuit.
Changing the rear brake circuit fluid

Unscrew the cap (6) of the rear brake fluid reservoir (7).
Attach a length of transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (8) and insert the other end of the tubing in a container
placed on the floor.

Fill the reservoir (7) with new brake fluid up to the MAX mark.
Warning
While filling the system, always keep the fluid level above the MIN mark to prevent the formation of air bubbles in the
circuit.
Allow the fluid to flow from the bleed valve (8) until it changes colour.
Operate the brake pedal two or three times to pressurise the circuit.
Hold the pedal pressed down.
Loosen the bleed valve (8) to allow fluid to escape.

The pedal is at the end of the stroke in lower position.
Now tighten the bleed valve (8) to a torque of 10 Nm±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings) and release the pedal;
press the pedal.
Repeat the operation described above until the old liquid flows completely.
Warning
After eliminating the old fluid from the tank, during the refilling operation always keep the oil level above the MIN mark to
prevent the formation of air bubbles inside the circuit.
Draining the brake circuit
Warning
Remove the cover (1) and membrane from the front brake fluid reservoir (2) by loosening screws (3) and the cover (6)
from the rear brake fluid reservoir (7).
Connect a commercial brake bleeder to the front brake calliper bleed valve (5) or rear brake calliper bleed valve (8).
Note
Follow the manufacturer's instructions when using a commercial brake bleeding tool.
Open the bleed valve and pump with the bleeding tool until no more fluid emerges.
If you do not have a brake bleeding tool available, attach a length of transparent plastic tubing to the front calliper bleed
valve (5) or rear calliper bleed valve (8) and immerse the other end of the tubing in a container on the floor containing
old brake fluid.
Loosen the bleed valve.

Operate the brake lever (or pedal) until all the fluid has drained out.
Repeat this operation for each brake calliper.
Note (front system)

With this procedure in the front system the front callipers fluid-filled remain; in case the callipers also need to be emptied,
it is necessary to carry out a retreat piston operation described in the chapter “Changing the fluid in the front brake
circuit” keeping the bleeder (if available) still running and connected to the bleed valve.
Note (rear system)

If there is no bleeder, carry out piston retreat operation described in the chapter “Changing the fluid in the front brake
circuit”.
Filling the brake system with fluid
Warning
Refill the tanks (2) and (7) with specified oil (Sect. 3 - 2, Fuel, lubricants and other fluids) taken from an intact container.
Important
During the following operation, the fluid level must remain topped over the MIN mark all times. The end of the
transparent plastic pipe must remain immersed in the discharged fluid at all times.
Connect the bleed tool to bleed valve (5) or (8).
Operate the lever or the brake pedal and keep it actuated during the refilling.
Note
Follow the manufacturer's instructions when using a commercial brake bleeding tool.
Aspirate with bleeder and loosen the bleed valve (5) or (8) always checking that the level of the corresponding tank does
not fall below the MIN mark.
Continue this procedure until all the air is expelled from the system.
Tighten the bleed valve (5) to a torque of 4 Nm±10% and the valve (8) to a torque of 10 Nm±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame
torque settings).
If you do not have a brake bleeder available, connect a length of transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve as outlined
in the draining procedure.
Press the lever or the pedal half way or until the pressure in the system is detected, open the bleed valve and take the
lever or pedal through the whole stroke; Tighten the bleed valve to the above mentioned torque (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame
torque settings) and release the lever or the pedal.
Important
Do not release the brake lever (or pedal) until the bleed valve has been fully tightened.
Finally check that with the bleed valves closed the activation of the pressure with the lever or pedal is correctly.
Tighten the bleed valve (5) to a torque of 4 Nm±10% and the valve (8) to a torque of 10 Nm±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame
torque settings) and mount the protection cap.
Level the liquid and refit the cover (1) by tightening the screws (3) on the tank (2) or the cap (6) on the tank (7).
Changing the clutch fluid
Warning
Clutch fluid will damage painted surfaces if spilled on them. It is also very harmful if it comes into contact with the skin or
with the eyes; in the event of accidental contact wash the affected area with abundant running water.
Undo the screws (3) and remove the cover and membrane (1) from the clutch fluid reservoir (2).
Attach a length of transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (4) and insert the other end of the tubing in a container
placed on the floor.

Fill the tank (2) with new oil up to the MAX mark.
Operate the clutch lever two or three times until the circuit is pressurised.
Hold the lever pulled in towards the grip.
Open the bleed valve (3) to allow fluid to escape.
Warning
During the filling operation, always keep the oil level above the MIN mark to prevent the formation of air bubbles in the
circuit.
Allow the fluid to flow from the bleed valve (4) until it changes colour. Retighten the bleed valve (4) and tighten to a
torque of 4 Nm ± 10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings) and restore the correct level of oil in the tank.
Draining the clutch hydraulic circuit
Warning
with the eyes; In the case of accidental contact, wash the affected area thoroughly with plenty of running water.
Remove the dust cap to expose the bleed valve (4).

Connect a clutch circuit bleeding tool to the clutch transmission unitbleed valve (4).
Note
Follow the manufacturer's instructions when using a commercial clutch bleeding tool.
Undo the screws (3) and remove the cover and membrane (1) from the fluid reservoir (2).
Open the bleed valve and pump with the bleeding tool until no more fluid emerges.
If you do not have a bleeding tool available, attach a length of transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (4) and insert
the other end of the tubing in a container of old clutch fluid placed on the floor.
Unscrew the bleed valve by 1/4 of a turn.
Operate the clutch lever until all the fluid has been expelled.
To help drain the circuit fully, unscrew the three retaining screws (5) and remove the slave cylinder cap from the engine.
Withdraw the clutch slave cylinder(6).

Push in the internal piston to force out all the fluid from inside the cap.
Refit the cap, tightening the retaining screws (5) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings) in the
sequence 1-2-3-1.
Tighten the bleed valve (4) to a torque of 4 Nm ± 10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Filling the clutch circuit
Warning
with the eyes; In the case of accidental contact, wash the affected area thoroughly with plenty of running water.
Fill the tank (2) with specified oil (Sect. 3 - 2, Fuel, lubricants and other fluids) taken from an intact container.
Important
During the following operation, the fluid level must remain topped up at all times. The end of the transparent plastic
tubing must remain immersed in the discharged fluid at all times.
Operate the clutch lever several times to fill the circuit and expel any air.
Connect the bleed tool to the bleed valve (3).
Note
Follow the manufacturer's instructions when using a commercial clutch bleeding tool.
Loosen the bleed valve (4) and pump with the bleeder. Make sure that the reservoir level does not fall below the MIN
mark.
Repeat the bleeding operation until the fluid emerging from the plastic tube connected to the bleed valve (4) is free of air
bubbles.
If you do not have a bleeding tool available, connect a length of transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (4) as
outlined in the draining procedure.
Open the bleed valve (4) by 1/4 of a turn and operate the clutch lever several times until the fluid starts to come out the
bleed valve (4).
Pull the lever fully in and then loosen the bleed valve by at least 1/4 turn.
Wait for a few seconds; then release the lever gradually while simultaneously closing the bleed valve (3).
Important
Do not release the clutch lever until the bleed valve has been fully tightened.
Repeat the bleeding operation until the fluid emerging from the plastic tube is free of air bubbles.
Tighten the bleed valve (4) to a torque of 4 Nm ± 10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings) and install the protection cap.
Fill up to 3 mm above the MIN level mark on the reservoir.
Replace the membrane and the cover (1) on the reservoir (2) and tighten the screws (3).
Adjusting the steering head bearings

Excessive handlebar play or the forks shaking in the steering head indicate that the play in the steering head bearings
requires adjustment. Proceed as follows.
Unscrew the four screws (1), remove the clamp (2) and remove the handlebar (3) from the steering head, positioning it
out of the way so it does not hinder subsequent operations.
Slacken the clamp screws (4) securing the steering head to both fork legs.
Loosen the clamp screw (5) that holds the steering tube to the steering head.
Using service tool no. 88713.1058, turn the ring nut (6) to a torque of 30 Nm ± 5% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque
settings).
Tighten the screws (4) and (5) previously loosened, to a torque of 24 Nm ± 5% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Replace the handlebar (3), mount the U-bolt (2) apply the recommended grease to the screws (1) and tighten the four
retaining screws (1) to a torque of 25 Nm ±5% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings), in the sequence 1-2-3-4-3.
Adjusting the chain tension

Turn the rear wheel slowly to find the position at which the chain is at its most taut.
With the motorcycle on its side stand, press with a finger in the centre of the bottom run of the chain and measure the
distance between the centres of chain link pins and the aluminium swingarm. The distance should be within 60 to 62 mm.
To adjust the tension, proceed as follows.

Slacken off the two clamp screws (1) that secure the rear wheel hub to the swingarm.
Fit the hook spanner code 88713.1038 inserting its tooth in the eccentric hub (2).
Rotate the eccentric hub (2) to obtain the correct chain tension.
Turn anticlockwise to tighten the chain; clockwise to loosen (from chain side).
Important
An incorrectly tensioned chain will lead to accelerated wear of the transmission components.
If the screws (1) are removed, lubricate with specified grease underside and thread, then tighten the screws (1) to a
torque of 31 Nm ± 5% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings) in the sequence 1-2-1.
Warning
For the safety of the rider and passenger, it is essential that the eccentric hub screws are correctly tightened.
Checking brake pad wear and changing brake pads
Warning
Important
On handing over the motorcycle after changing the brake pads, inform the customer that the front brake must be used
gently for the first 100 km to allow the pads to bed in completely.
Checking front brake pad wear

Look through the slot in the calliper clip (1) to make sure the groove in the brake pad friction material (2) is still visible.
Important
If either of the pads is worn, both pads must be renewed as a set.
Change the brake pads as follows.

Remove the cotter pin (3) from the pad retaining pin.
Force the calliper pistons back into their bores by forcing the old brake pads apart.
Withdraw the pad retaining pins (4) from the outside.
Remove the clip (1) from between the two calliper halves.
Remove the worn pads (2).
Note
Change pads that have a shiny or “vitrified” appearance.
Insert the new pads and clip (1). Slide in the pad retaining pin (4) and secure it in position with the cotter pin (3).
Operate the brake lever repeatedly so that the pads are firmly bedded in against the disc by the force of the brake fluid.
Check that the level in the cylinder tank is not below the MIN mark. If necessary, top up as follows. Turn the handlebar so
that the reservoir is level.
Unscrew the two crosshead screws (6) and remove the reservoir cover (5).
Remove the inner membrane from the reservoir.
Top-up to the maximum level with the specified brake fluid (Sect. 3 - 2, Fuel, lubricants and other fluids).
Refit all previously removed components.
Checking rear brake pad wear

Check through the slot between the two half callipers that there is at least 1 mm of friction material on the pads.
Important
If either of the pads is worn, both pads must be renewed as a set.
Change the brake pads as follows.

Remove the snap ring (7) (on the inner side of the calliper) from the pad retaining pin. Force the brake pads apart to
push the calliper pistons into their housings. Withdraw the brake pad retaining pin (8) and pull it out.
Remove the clip (9) from between the two calliper halves. Remove the worn pads.
Insert the new pads and clip (9). Slide in the pad retaining pin (8) and secure it in position with the snap ring (7).
Note
Change pads that have a shiny or “vitrified” appearance.
Operate the brake pedal repeatedly so that the pads are bedded in against the disc by the force of the brake fluid.
Check that the brake fluid level in the tank is between the MIN and MAX marks. If this is not the case, unscrew the tank
cap and top it up.
Note
If it proves difficult to change the brake pads, first remove the callipers from the motorcycle (Sect. 7 - 4, Removal of the
rear brake calliper).
Warning
Being the brake callipers a security component of the vehicle, follow instructions indicated in Sect. 7 - 3, Removal of the
front brake system and Sect. 7 - 4, Removal of the rear brake calliper, and pay attention, during the refitting, to the
tightening torque (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings) of the fixing screws of the callipers.
Adjusting the throttle cable

The throttle grip in all steering positions must have free play, measured on the periphery of the flange of the grip, of 2 ÷
4 mm.
If necessary, adjust the free play with the adjuster (1) located on the twistgrip.
Major adjustments of the throttle cable are possible by working adjuster (2) located on throttle body right-hand side.
Remove the gaiter, loosen the lock nut (3) and work adjuster (2) to set the required play.
Tighten the lock nut and refit the gaiter.
The condition of the throttle cable and choke cable sheaths should be checked at regular intervals. The plastic covering
should show no signs of pinching or cracking.
Lubricate the ends of the throttle control cables with the prescribed grease periodically to ensure they run freely.
Operate the control to check that the inner cable slides smoothly inside the outer cable: if you feel excessive resistance or
stiffness, renew the cable.
To lubricate throttle cable, undo the two screws (5) and remove the upper half of the twistgrip housing (4).
Grease the end of the cable (6) and the pulley.
Carefully close the throttle assembly, inserting the cable (6) in the guide (A) on the upper twistgrip housing (4).
Tighten the twistgrip housing with the two screws (5) to a torque of 1.8 Nm ± 10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Adjusting the clutch lever and front brake lever

Lever (1) disengages the clutch. It features a dial adjuster (2) for lever distance from the twistgrip on handlebar.
The lever distance is adjusted by 4 clicks of the knob (2), position no. 1 corresponds to the maximum distance between
the lever and the handgrip, whereas position no. 4 corresponds to the minimum distance.
When the clutch lever (1) is operated, drive from the engine to the gearbox and the drive wheel is disengaged. Correct
use of the clutch lever is very important in all riding situations, especially when moving off.
The position of the front brake lever can be adjusted in the same way.
Warning
Clutch lever and front brake lever shall be adjusted when motorcycle is at a standstill.
Important
Using the clutch properly will avoid damage to transmission parts and spare the engine.
Note
The engine can be started with the side stand down and the gearbox in neutral. If starting with a gear engaged, pull in
the clutch lever (in this case the side stand must be up).
Adjusting the position of the gear change and rear brake pedals
The position of the gear change and rear brake pedals in relation to the footrests can be adjusted to suit the preferred
riding position.
To adjust the position of the gearchange pedal, proceed as follows:
hold the linkage (1) and slacken the lock nuts (2) and (3).
Note
The lock nut (2) has a left-hand thread.
Turn the tie-rod (1) using an open-ended wrench on the flats to move the gear change pedal to the required position.
Tighten both lock nuts onto the rod.

To adjust the position of the rear brake pedal, proceed as follows.
Loosen lock nut (4).
Turn the pedal travel adjustment screw (5) until the pedal is in the desired position.
Tighten the lock nut (4).
Verify, by acting manually on the pedal, that there is a clearance of about 1.5 ÷2 mm before starting the braking
operation.
If not, check to modify the length of the cylinder push-rod in the following mode.
Slacken off the lock nut (7) on the pushrod.
Screw the rod into the fork (6) to increase play, or unscrew it to reduce play.
Tighten the lock nut (7) and recheck the pedal free play.
Adjusting the rear shock absorber

The shock absorber has external adjusters that enable you to adjust the suspension to suit the motorcycle set up.
The adjuster (1) located on the left-hand side, where the upper end of the shock absorber is attached to the rear
subframe, controls rebound damping.
Turn the adjuster (1) clockwise to increase damping H; or anticlockwise to reduce damping S.
STANDARD setting from the fully closed position (clockwise):

- unscrew adjuster (1) by 8 clicks.
Spring preload: 15 mm.
The two nuts (2) on the upper part of the shock absorber serve to adjust the preload on the external spring. To change
spring preload, slacken off the upper ring nut. Then tighten or slacken the lower ring nut to increase or decrease spring
preload.
Warning
To turn the preload adjuster nuts, use only a specific tool and take care, otherwise the wrench pins may slip off the nut.
This could injure your hands. Never use a wrench with a too small pin or with a too short handle.
Important
When adjusting the spring preload, do not exceed a spring length of 181 mm to avoid damaging the swingarm.
Standard length of the preloaded spring on the shock absorber with the rear wheel raised off the ground: 150±1 mm.
Warning
The shock absorber is filled with high-pressure gas and can cause injuries if inexpertly dismantled.
Important
If the motorcycle is to be ridden with a pillion rider and luggage, we recommend setting the rear shock absorber spring
preload to the maximum to ensure the best handling and proper ground clearance at all times. It may also be necessary
to adjust the rebound damping accordingly.
Adjusting the exhaust valve bowden cable
Note
Adjustment procedure for all models with one control cable.
Operations Section reference

Remove the seat 5 - 3, Removal of the seat
Remove the protection (1), unscrewing the screw (2) and recovering the washers (3) and corresponding spacer.
Remove the clamps (4), (5) and disconnect the exhaust valve motor wiring (6).
Loosen the screws (7), recover the washers (8) and remove the exhaust valve motor (9) from the rear number plate
holder.
For any position assumed by the vertex of the hexagon (D) flanked by the two cable end fittings, between the vertical
position (A) and the position corresponding to the notch (B).
Loosen lock nut (10) from adjuster and tighten the adjuster ring nut (11) at least by 4 turns.
Connect the DDS (Sect. 6 - 13, Tester power supply) and open the procedure “EXUP valve act.”.
The page opens and you can select to activate the procedure.
Press “F6” to close the valve that stays closed.
Undo the adjuster of the cable until you obtain a free play in the range of 0.5 mm to 1.5 mm measured between valve
stopper and pulley stop.
Tighten lock nut (10).
Press button “X” from this DDS page: the activation procedure page closes and system quits without going through test
selection.
Disconnect the DDS.

Turn the key to on, let make one complete turn and make sure that the vertex of the hexagon (D) in-between the cable
mounting holes is secure/fixed next to the notch (B).
Fitting a new motor and new cable

Insert cable end coming out of the straight sheath length on motor pulley into hole (A) shown.
Insert sheath end into the relevant seat (B) on the motor.
Fit the clip (C) to sheath terminal and make sure that it prevents cable from slipping out.
Turn the clip indicated by the arrow to the position shown in the figure.
Route cable in the tunnel provided between plate and number plate holder.
Position and fasten the valve motor to the rear subframe plate by means of two screws (7) and two washers (8).
Tighten the screws (7) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Fasten the electric cable to the motor central body using a rubber clamp L82.
Ensure the cable is not touching the metal plate edge (area indicated by the arrow).
Turn exhaust valve pulley clockwise fully and hold it in this position.
Slide off the dust gaiter (12) from the sheath end.
Fit sheath end into the left-hand hole available on the plate above the valve pulley and refit the dust gaiter.
Fit cable end into the pulley hole indicated in the figure and release pulley so as cable is taut again.
Lock cable end to plate by means of the circlip (13).
Loosen adjuster ring nut (11) on cable until pulley gets against the limit stop, further loosen it by 1.5 turns.
On the DDS, press “F9”: to go back to test selection page.
Press “F8” to open function “EXUP 5-cycle test”.

The 5-cycle test is performed.
Tighten the adjuster ring nut (11) on cable until you obtain a clearance in the range of 0.5 mm to 1.5 mm measured
between limit stop and pulley stop.
Once adjustment is completed, distance between the stop plate welded to the exhaust pipe and the valve pulley front tab
must be 0.5 to 1.5 mm.
Press button “X” from this DDS page: the activation procedure page closes and system quits without going through test selection.
Disconnect the DDS.

If the test result was positive in the previous step, proceed with the remaining operations. While if result was negative,
find failure cause before continuing.
Final checks
Make sure that, upon the following immediate “KEY ON” cycles, the exhaust valve stays in “fully open position”, i.e. the
valve pulley rear tab must be resting against the stop plate welded to the exhaust pipe.
Fitting a new exhaust valve cable with used motor

Press “F7” to open function “EXUP 50% test”.
The pulley will set with its vertex (in-between the cable end holes) at the motor centreline.
Fit the clip to sheath terminal and make sure that it prevents cable from slipping out.
Tighten the screws (7) to a torque of 10 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Loosen adjuster ring nut (11) on cable until pulley gets against the limit stop, further loosen it by 1.5 turns.
Press “F8” to open function “EXUP 5-cycle test”.

The 5-cycle test is performed.
Disconnect the DDS.

Final checks
Fitting a new exhaust valve motor with used cable

Fit the clip to sheath terminal and make sure that it prevents cable from slipping out.
Disconnect the DDS.

Final checks
1 - Headlight fairing - rear-view mirrors 3
Removal of the rear-view mirrors 4
Refitting the rear-view mirrors 4
Removal of the headlight fairing 5
Refit the headlight fairing 8
2 - Fairings 9
Removal of the fuel tank fairings 10
Refitting the fuel tank fairings 12
3 - Seat 16
Removal of the seat 17
Refitting the seat 18
Removal of the tool tray 18
Refitting the tool tray 19
4 - Front and rear mudguard 20

Removal of the front mudguard 21
Refitting the front mudguard 23
Removing the rear mudguard 25
Refitting the rear mudguard 25
Headlight fairing - rear-view mirrors
1 -Headlight fairing - rear-view mirrors
1 Rear-view mirror
2 Screw
3 U-bolt
4 Spring washer
5 Bracket
6 Nut
7 Screw
8 Headlight fairing
9 Screw
10 Windscreen
11 Nut
12 Quick-release fastener
13 Screw
14 Washer
796 INSTRUMENT PANEL - HEADLIGHT FAIRING

796 HANDLEBAR AND CONTROLS
796 ABS INSTRUMENT PANEL - HEADLIGHT FAIRING
796 ABS HANDLEBAR AND CONTROLS
Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be found in
the exploded view diagram.
Removal of the rear-view mirrors

Undo the screws (2), remove the rear-view mirrors (1) and recover the washers (4).
Refitting the rear-view mirrors

Start the screws (2) in their thread on the rear-view mirrors (1), inserting the washers (4) as shown in the picture.
Insert the rear-view mirrors (1) in the U-bolts (3).

Warning
The left rear-view mirror screw (2) has a left-handed threading.
Removal of the headlight fairing

Unscrew the screws (7) and slide out the headlight fairing (8).
To remove the brackets (5) undo the screws (9), while holding the nuts (6).
Disassembly of the headlight fairing

If the windshield (10) needs replacing, unscrew the screws (13) taking care to recover the washers (14) and the nuts
(11).
Remove the windscreen (10) from the headlight fairing (8).
Reassembly of the headlight fairing
Important
On refitting the headlight fairing, always refit the washers (14) in correspondence with the retaining screws (13) to avoid
damaging the painted parts and the Plexiglas windshield (10).
Fit the Plexiglas windscreen (10) on the headlight fairing (8) as shown.
Make sure that the quick-couplings (12) are in place on headlight fairing brackets and oriented as shown in the figure.
Insert the screws (13) with washers (14) and nuts (11).
Tighten the screws (13) to a torque of 0.2 Nm ± 10%(Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings) while holding the nuts (11).
Refit the headlight fairing

Fit the brackets (5) to the headlight support, starting the screws (9) and nuts (6).
While holding the nuts (6), tighten the screws (9) (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings) as follows:
- tighten the lower screws (9) to a torque of 1.5 Nm ± 10%.
- tighten the upper screws (9) to a torque of 8 Nm ± 10%.
- tighten the lower screws (9) to a torque of 8 Nm ± 10%.
Refit the headlight fairing (8) starting and tightening the screws (7) to a torque of 5 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque
settings).
Fairings
2 -Fairings
1 RH fuel tank cover

2 LH fuel tank cover
3 Front fuel tank cover
4 Screw
5 Rear fuel tank cover
6 Spacer
7 Screw
9 Banjo bolt
10 Nylon washer
11 Screw
12 Screw
13 Spacer
14 Spacer
796 FUEL TANK (COVER)

796 ABS FUEL TANK (COVER)
Important
Removal of the fuel tank fairings

Fairings
Unscrew the screws (7) and (12) securing the front tank cover (3) but do not remove the cover.
Undo the screws (4) and (11) and remove the RH tank cover (1) and LH tank cover (2) releasing the tabs (A) from the
slots (B) in the rear cover (5): recover the nylon washers (10) and the spacers (13).
Remove the front tank cover (3) and recover the spacers (6) and (14).
Fairings
Unscrew the special screws (9) and remove the rear tank cover (5).
Refitting the fuel tank fairings

Locate the rear cover (5) on the fuel tank and secure it in place with the special screws (9).
Tighten the two upper special screws (9) to a torque of 2 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Check that the four bushes (6) are installed on the front tank cover (3) with the larger diameter side facing upwards and
the six spacers (14) as shown.
Fairings
Locate the front tank cover (3) on the fuel tank.
Insert spacers (13) and quick-couplings (15) into the holes inside the right-hand (1) and left-hand tank covers (2).
Refit the right-hand tank cover (1), inserting the tabs (A) in the corresponding slots (B) in the rear cover (5).
Note
Insert the front lugs (C) under the front tank cover (3).
Repeat the above operations to refit the left-hand tank cover (2).
Fairings
Insert the retaining screws (7) and (12) in the front tank cover (3), starting with the front screws.
Insert the screws (11) complete with the nylon washers (10) and screws (4) in the RH tank cover (1) and LH tank cover
(2).
Tighten the screws (7) around the tank plug to a torque of 2 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Tighten the screws (4) and (11) and the remaining special screw (9) to a torque of 2 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame
torque settings).
Fairings

Refit the seat 5 - 3, Refitting the seat
Seat
3 -Seat
1 Seat
2 Helmet lock cable
3 Screw
4 Tool tray
5 Rubber pad
6 Banjo bolt
7 Spacer
8 Rubber pad
9 Elastic strap
10 Seat cover
11 Stud bolt
796 SEAT
796 ABS SEAT
Important
Removal of the seat

Insert the key in the lock and simultaneously apply downward pressure in the area of the catch to release the pin.
Pull the seat backwards to release it from the front catches and remove it from the frame.
Seat
Disassembly of the seat

Unscrew the two special screws (6) and slide out the seat cover (10).
Reassembly of the seat

Refit the seat cover (10) to the seat inserting and tightening the special screws (6) to a tightening torque of 5 Nm ±10%
(Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Refitting the seat

Refit the seat inserting the front ends of the seat base into the tabs (A) on the tank, then push the rear end of the seat
until you hear the screw in the lock click into place.
Seat
Removal of the tool tray

Remove the seat, as described in the paragraph “Removal of the seat“ of this section.
Release the elastic strap (9) and remove the tool bag (B) and free the ABS diagnosis connector (C) and the ABS diagnosis
power supply connector (D) in the ABS version.
Unscrew the screws (3) and remove the tool tray (4).
Refitting the tool tray

Refit the tool tray (4) starting the screws (3) and tighten them to a torque of 5 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque
settings).
Seat
Place the tool bag (B) and the ABS diagnosis connector (C) and the ABS diagnosis power supply connector (D) in the tool
tray (4) in the ABS version, as shown in the figure.
Secure the tool bag with the elastic strap (9).
Refit the seat, as described in the paragraph “Refitting the seat“ of this section.
Front and rear mudguard
4 -Front and rear mudguard
1 Front mudguard
2 Washer
3 Rivet
4 Clip
5 Screw
6 ABS grommet
7 Screw
8 Rear mudguard
9 Screw
10 Spacer
11 Hose grommet
796 FUEL TANK (COVER)

796 SWINGARM
796 ABS FUEL TANK (COVER)
796 ABS SWINGARM
Important
Removal of the front mudguard

Undo the screw (9) and remove the front brake lines (A) from the grommet (4).
Remove dust seal (C) from ABS sensor cable and release cable off its inner fastener (D) on front mudguard (1).
Undo and remove the special retaining screws (5).

Remove the front mudguard (1).
Warning
ABS sensor mounting bracket (E) is located on left-hand fork leg, pay special attention while removing the front mudguard
(1).
Note
On USA versions, a reflector is mounted on the front mudguard (1).
Note
The hose grommet (4) is fastened to front mudguard (1) by means of a shear rivet (3) with two washers (2) in-between.
Refitting the front mudguard
Warning
Do not use the motorcycle without the front mudguard fitted to avoid the risk of the brake pipes fouling the wheel on
braking.
Position the ABS sensor mounting bracket (E) onto left-hand fork leg.
Engage ABS sensor cable (B) in its inner fastener (D) on front mudguard (1) and refit dust seal (C).
Position the front mudguard (1) and start the special screws (5), using the recommended threadlocker.
Insert brake rubber block (A) into grommet (4) and ensure it is centred.
Fold the grommet (4), secure it by starting and tightening the screw (9) to a torque of 0.4 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame
torque settings).
It is necessary to check the air-gap between the speed sensor (F) and the phonic wheel (G).
For this purpose, use a feeler gauge (A) to check the air-gap; then, carry out 4 measures of the air-gap, one every 90° of
wheel turn.
Phonic wheel sensor AIR GAP range is 1.3 mm to 1.9 mm.
Removing the rear mudguard

Undo the screws (7), remove the grommet (6) with spacers (10) and then remove the rear mudguard (8) from the
swinging arm.
Refitting the rear mudguard

Set the rear mudguard (8) onto the swinging arm, starting the screws (7) in their thread with the recommended
threadlocker, and fitting, on the front one, the spacer (10) and the grommet (12).
1 - Wiring diagram 4
796 Wiring diagram 4
796 ABS Wiring diagram 6
Wiring diagram colour codes 7
Key to fuse box 8
Routing of wiring on frame 9
Table A 11
Table B 12
Table C 14
Table D 15
Table E 17
Table F 19
Table G 23
Table H 24
Table J 26
Table K 27
Table L 28
Table M 31
Table N 34
Table O 36
Table P 38
Table Q 42
Table R 43
Table S 44
Table T 45
Table U 46
Table V 47
2 - Battery charging system 48

Checking the battery charging system 48
Recharging the battery 49
Topping up the electrolyte 50
Battery 53
Battery support 56
Alternator 57
Rectifier-regulator 60
3 - Electric starting system 66

Electric starting system 66
Starter motor 67
Starter contactor 71
4 - Lights and indicating devices 76

Renewal of the headlight 76
Changing bulbs 81
High beam headlights relay 84
Headlight aim 86
5 - Indicating devices 87
Checking the indicating devices 87
Changing light bulbs 92
6 - Protection and safety devices 93

Checking protection and safety device components 93
Checking the fuses 95
7 - Instruments 97
Instrument panel 97
Instrument panel system 98
Display settings and functions 100
8 - immobilizer and transponder 129

10 - Description of the system 132
General information on the fuel injection-ignition system 132
Fuel circuit 135
Intake air circuit 136
Operating phases 138
11 - Fuel injection - ignition system 139

Electronic Control Unit (ECU) 140
Fuel injectors 142
Stepper motor 143
Lambda sensor 144
Air pressure sensor 146
Temperature sensor 148
Spark plug 150
Coil 152
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) 155
Timing/rpm sensor 156
Injection and main relay 157
13 - Diagnostic instruments 158

Using a multimeter to check the electrical systems 158
Description of the Ducati Diagnostic System tester 160
Tester power supply 162
DDS diagnosis instrument 165
Checking and adjusting timing belt tension 165
Self-adaptation of the throttle position sensor (TPS) 170
Adjusting the idle speed 174
Check the engine oil pressure 179
Cylinder compression test 183
Fuel pressure test 186
Immobilizer override procedure 192
Guided diagnosis 196
Testing the battery charging system 199
ABS diagnosis 201
Icons table 202
Wiring diagram
1 -Wiring diagram
796 Wiring diagram
WIRING DIAGRAM
Wiring diagram
Key to wiring diagram

1 Right-hand handlebar switch
2 Ignition switch
3 Horizontal cylinder spark plug
4 Vertical cylinder spark plug
5 Starter motor
6 Solenoid starter
7 Battery
8 Main fuse
9 Regulator
10 Generator
11 RH rear turn indicator
12 Tail light
13 Number plate light
14 LH rear turn indicator
15 Fuel tank
16 Horizontal cylinder exhaust lambda sensor
17 Injection relay
18 Self-diagnosis/DDA
19 Horizontal cylinder coil
20 Vertical cylinder coil
21 Headlight
22 MAP sensor
23 Horizontal cylinder injector
24 Vertical cylinder injector
25 Throttle position sensor
26 Timing/rpm sensor
27 Cylinder temperature sensor
28 Speed sensor
29 Side stand
30 Horn
31 Neutral switch
32 Oil pressure switch
33 Rear stop switch
34 ECU
35 Fuses
36 Clutch switch
37 Front stop switch
38 Left-hand handlebar switch
39 Transponder antenna
40 Air temperature sensor
41 Vertical cylinder exhaust lambda sensor
42 Instrument panel
43 Light relay
44 LH front turn indicator
45 RH front turn indicator
46 Valve motor
47 Stepper motor
796 ABS Wiring diagram

WIRING DIAGRAM
Wiring diagram
Key to wiring diagram

1 Right-hand handlebar switch
2 Ignition switch
3 Horizontal cylinder spark plug
4 Vertical cylinder spark plug
5 Starter motor
Wiring diagram
6 Solenoid starter
7 Battery
8 Main fuse
9 Regulator
10 Generator
11 RH rear turn indicator
12 Tail light
13 Number plate light
14 LH rear turn indicator
15 Fuel tank
16 Horizontal cylinder exhaust lambda sensor
17 Injection relay
18 Self-diagnosis/DDA
19 Horizontal cylinder coil
20 Vertical cylinder coil
21 Headlight
22 MAP sensor
23 Horizontal cylinder injector
24 Vertical cylinder injector
26 Timing/rpm sensor
28 Rear speed sensor
29 Side stand
30 Horn
31 Neutral switch
32 Oil pressure switch
33 Rear stop switch
34 ECU
35 Fuses
36 Clutch switch
37 Front stop switch
38 Left-hand handlebar switch
39 Transponder antenna
41 Vertical cylinder exhaust lambda sensor
42 Instrument panel
43 Light relay
44 LH front turn indicator
45 RH front turn indicator
46 Valve motor
47 Stepper motor
48 ABS fuses
49 ABS ECU
50 Front speed sensor
Wiring diagram colour codes

B Blue
Bk Black
Bn Brown
G Green
Gr Grey
Lb Light blue
O Orange
P Pink
R Red
V Violet
W White
Y Yellow
Key to fuse box
Wiring diagram
Position Consumer Rating

1 Key ON 10 A
2 Side lights, high/low beam 15 A
3 El. item 15 A
4 Instrument panel 5A
5 Injection 20 A
6 ECU 5A
7 Spare 20 A
8 Spare 15 A
Routing of wiring on frame

The routing of the wiring has been optimised to ensure the minimum obstruction.
Each section is designed to prevent interference with parts that might damage wires or cause operating failures when
riding. The plates on the following pages show the origins (“0” points) for correct re-routing of wiring and the locations of
cable ties.
Each figure includes references to the plates showing the wiring routing or the item to which it must be connected.
Position Description
1 Table A Main wiring branch
2 Table B/Table C Left-hand handlebar switch connector
3 Table B Clutch connector
4 Table B/Table C Clutch wire
5 Table B Front brake light connector
6 Table B/Table C Right-hand handlebar switch connector
7 Table B/Table C Front brake light wire
8 Table B Immobilizer antenna connector
9 Table B Key switch connector
10 Table B Immobilizer antenna wire
11 Table B Key-switch
12 Table D Front right turn signal connector
13 Table D Front left turn signal connector
14 Table D Headlight connector
15 Table D Instrument panel connector
16 Table E Vertical cylinder injector connector
17 Table E Air/temperature sensor
18 Table E Horizontal cylinder injector connector
19 Table F Engine earth
20 Table F Side stand connector
21 Table F/Table P Battery negative terminal
22 Table F/Table P Side stand wire
23 Table H Alternator cable
Wiring diagram
24 Table G Horn connector

25 Table H/Table E Regulator/alternator connector
26 Table H/Table E Regulator/main wiring harness connector
27 Table H/Table E Voltage regulator
28 Table J/Table F Potentiometer connector
29 Table K Horizontal cylinder coil connector
30 Table L Horizontal cylinder exhaust lambda sensor
31 Table L Horizontal exhaust lambda sensor connector
32 Table L Vertical exhaust lambda sensor connector
33 Table L Fuel tank flange connector
34 Table L Vertical cylinder exhaust lambda sensor
35 Table M Data acquisition (DDA) connector
36 Table N Rear wiring harness connector
37 Table N Number plate light connector
38 Table N Rear left turn signal connector
39 Table N Right rear turn signal connector
40 Table N Rear brake light connector
41 Table O Fuse box
42 Table O Throttle pressure/vacuum sensor
43 Table P Contactor/battery positive terminal cable
44 Table P Injection/lights relay
45 Table P ECU connector
46 Table P Vertical cylinder coil connector
47 Table P Starter contactor connector
48 Table Q/Table R Vertical cylinder temperature sensor
49 Table R/Table Q Pickup connector
50 Table R Pick-up sensor
51 Table P Solenoid/starter motor cable
52 Table S Oil pressure switch connector
53 Table T Neutral cable switch connection
54 Table U Rear brake light sensor connector
55 Table U Rear speed sensor connector
56 Table U Rear speed sensor (see Sect. 7 - 6, Flexible wiring/hoses
positioning)
57 Table E Stepper motor
58 Table M Exhaust valve motor connector
59 Table V Front speed sensor connector (only for 796 ABS)
60 Table V Front speed sensor cable (see Sect. 7 - 6,Flexible wiring/hoses
positioning) (only for 796 ABS)
61 Table M ABS diagnosis (only for 796 ABS)
62 Table M ABS diagnosis (only for 796 ABS)
63 Table P ABS control unit connector (only for 796 ABS)
64 Table P Voltage regulator fuse and ABS fuses (only for 796 ABS)
65 Table P ABS positive terminal (only for 796 ABS)
66 Table P ABS negative terminal (only for 796 ABS)
Table A
Table A
Table B
Table A
Table A
Table C
Table A
Table D
Table A
Table A
Table E
Table A
Table A
Table F
Table A
Table A
Table A
Table A
Table G
Table H
Table A
Table A
Table J
Table A
Table K
Table L
Table A
Table A
Table A
Table A
Table M
Table A
Table A
Table N
Table A
Table O
Table A
Table A
Table P
Table A
Table A
Table A
Table A
Table Q
Table A
Table R
Table A
Table S
Table A
Table T
Table A
Table U
Table A
Table V
Battery charging system
2 -Battery charging system

Checking the battery charging system
To check the current flow in the charging circuit, use the “DDS” tester, which is equipped with an inductive clamp-type
amperemeter.
Follow the instructions given in the paragraph “Checking the battery charging system” (Sect. 6 - 2).
A negative value means that charging system is not powering the loads and a significant amount of current must be
supplied by the battery, which is discharging at the time of the measurement.
Or it is possible to use a multimeter (Sect. 6 - 13, DDS diagnosis instrument): connect the multimeter probes to the
battery terminals, select the DC scale on the instrument and check for the presence of 14.5 V ±0.5 at an engine speed of
3000 rpm.
Important
If polarity is reversed when clamping the ammeter onto the cable, the sign of the readings will also be reversed, giving
rise to incorrect diagnosis.
Recharging the battery

Examine the label on the battery showing the check intervals in order to determine when to test the voltage.
Charge the battery if the open circuit voltage is lower than 12.8 V. Leaving the battery discharged for more than one
month could damage it. Check the battery charge with a voltmeter.
Always check the condition of the battery before recharging and 1 to 2 hours afterwards.
Important
Pay careful attention to recharging times. Stop charging immediately if the battery becomes too hot to the touch. Leave
to cool before resuming charging.
Use only constant-voltage battery chargers.

Check that battery terminals are properly connected to the battery charger.
For recharging, follow the instructions on the battery; for further details consult the table below.
Type of charging Volt. Ampere (A) Time (Hours)

Normal 12 1.2 5-10
Fast 12 5.0 1
Use fast charging in emergencies only.
Storing the battery

If the battery voltage is less than or equal to 11.5 V, it must be recharged.
Connect the battery charger to the battery.
Use a voltage of 16-17 V.
If the ammeter shows no change, increase the voltage to the maximum of 25 V.
Charge for 5 minutes.
If the ammeter shows a change, return the voltage to 16-17 V; otherwise replace the battery.
Topping up the electrolyte

Remove the battery from the motorcycle.
Warning
Before carrying out any operations on the battery, keep in mind the safety standards (Sect. 1 - 3, General safety rules).
The electrolyte in the battery is toxic and can cause burns if it comes into contact with the skin because it contains
sulphuric acid.
Wear protective clothing, a face-mask and goggles when adding electrolyte.
If the liquid comes into contact with the skin, wash thoroughly with cold water. If it comes into contact with the eyes,
wash thoroughly with water for 15 minutes and consult an ophthalmologist. In the event of accidental ingestion, drink
large quantities of water or milk, and continue with milk of magnesia, beaten egg or vegetable oil. Do not allow sparks,
flames, cigarettes or any other heat source to come near the battery, as it produces explosive gases.
When recharging or using the battery indoors, make sure that the room is adequately ventilated. Do not inhale the gases
produced during recharging.
KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.
Place the battery on a flat surface.

Remove the protective film (1).
Warning
Make certain that the electrolyte is of the specific type for your battery.
Remove the container with the electrolyte from the plastic bag.
Remove the cap strip (3) from the container (2).
Important
Keep the cap strip (3) to hand because it will be used later as plugs for the battery cells.
Warning
Do not peel or perforate the sealed areas.
Place the electrolyte container (2) upside down. Align the six sealed elements with the six filler holes on the battery.
Push the container (2) downwards with sufficient force to break the seals and allow the liquid to flow out.
Note
Do not tilt the electrolyte container as this could interrupt the flow temporarily or even permanently.
Make certain that air bubbles emerge from all six filler holes. Leave the container in this position for at least twenty
minutes. If no bubbles emerge from one of the holes, tap gently on the bottom of the respective container.
Important
Never move the container away from the battery. Do not cut or puncture the liquid container.
Make sure that all the electrolyte has flowed out. Carefully extract the container (2) from the battery.
Place the sealing cap strip (3) previously removed from the electrolyte container (2) on the battery, taking care not to
force it into the filler holes.
For 3-12 Ah batteries, leave to stand for at least 30 min.

For batteries of over 12 Ah, leave to stand for at least 1 hour.
Note
If using an automatic charge reducing battery charger, make certain that the charger current (amps) is greater than or
equal to the standard (STD) recharging system indicated on the battery.
Press down firmly with both hands until the caps are firmly in place (do not use a hammer).
Battery
Safety rules
Warning
Before carrying out any operations on the battery, keep in mind the safety standards (Sect. 1 - 3, General safety rules).
When under charge, batteries produce explosive gases. Keep batteries away from heat sources, sparks or open flames.
Instructions for use

The battery is a sealed, maintenance-free type and therefore requires no servicing installation.
Note
Always keep the battery clean. Apply grease around the battery terminal clamps to prevent corrosion.
Warning
Never remove the retainer bar (1) on the top of the cover or add more liquid to the battery. If the casing, the cover or the
terminals are broken, or if the sealing cap strip has been tampered with, the battery must be renewed.
Important
If the motorcycle is left unused for more than 30 days, remove the battery and store it in a safe, cool place.
Always charge the battery before the first use and after long storage periods - such as before selling the vehicle.
Removal of the battery

Insert the key in the lock and simultaneously apply downward pressure in the area of the catch to release the pin.
Remove the fuel tank (Sect. 8 - 2, Refitting the fuel tank).
Remove the terminal protection caps and undo the screws (1) starting always from the negative terminal (-).
Remove the positive cable (2) and the ABS positive cable (3) from the positive terminal and the negative cable (4) from
the negative terminal in the ABS version.
Release the elastic strap (6) and remove the battery (7) by sliding it upward.
Refitting the battery

Install the battery (7) on the battery support, connect the positive cable (2) and the ABS positive cable (3) to the positive
terminal and the negative cable (4) to the battery negative terminal in the ABS version, starting always from the positive
one (+) and start the screws (1) in their threads.
Tighten the terminal clamp screws (1) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings) and apply grease
onto the battery terminals to prevent oxidation.
Fit the protective caps to the battery terminals.
Refit the remaining parts in the reverse order with respect to disassembly.
Battery support
Remove the battery, as previously described in the paragraph “Battery“ of this section.
Remove the vertical head coil as described in Sect. 6 - 12, Coil.
Unscrew the screws (7) and screw (5) and remove the battery support from the airbox.
Recover the bushes on the screws (7).
Reassemble the components in the reverse order of the disassembling, tighten the screws (7) to a torque of 5 Nm ± 10%
and the screw (5) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Alternator
It is equipped with a 12 V, 520 W alternator, consisting of a stator (A) located in the generator cover and a rotor (B)
fixed to the crankshaft.
Warning
To check the battery charging system for faults, use the DDS diagnosis instrument and follow the instructions given in the
paragraph, “Checking the battery charging system“ (Sect. 6 - 2).
The absolute value of voltage measured across the terminals of two of the three yellow cables (the measured value will be
the same whichever combination of cable is used) must be within the range indicated in the table below.
(Ambient temperature: 20 °C)
Important
Before testing, disconnect the alternator wiring from the electric system when the ignition key is set to OFF.
Engine rpm 2000 6000

V effective 27±10 78±10
Values significantly lower than those indicated above can be due to:
- partially demagnetised rotor;
- short-circuited windings.
In the above cases the whole alternator assembly (rotor and stator) should be renewed.
If checks have a favourable outcome, reconnect the alternator to the regulator with ignition key on OFF. Make sure that
no cables are damaged or disconnected.
Removal of the alternator

Disconnect the cables of the generator-side electric system (refer to the paragraph “Routing of wiring on frame”, Sect. 6 -
1).

Drain the engine oil 4 - 3, Changing the engine oil and
filter cartridge
Remove the gearchange control 7 - 9, Removal of the gearchange
control
Remove the clutch transmission 7 - 8.2, Removal of the clutch
unit transmission unit
Undo the screws (D) and remove the sprocket cover (C).
Remove the generator cover, the stator (A) and the rotor (B) (Sect. 9 - 8, Removal of the generator cover).
Refitting the generator

Install the rotor (B), the stator (A) and the generator cover (Sect. 9 - 8, Refitting the generator cover).
Refit the sprocket cover (C) tightening the screws (D) to a torque of 6 Nm ± 10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).

Refit the clutch transmission unit 7 - 8.2, Refitting the clutch
transmission unit
Refit the gearchange control 7 - 9, Refitting the gearchange
mechanism
Top up the engine oil 4 - 3, Changing the engine oil and
filter cartridge
Connect the cables of the alternator-side electric system (refer to the table in paragraph “Routing of wiring on frame”,
Sect. 6 - 1).
Rectifier-regulator
The regulator (1) is fixed to the RH air scoop (2).
The rectifier/regulator consists of an aluminium casing containing the diodes that rectify the current produced by the
alternator. It also contains an electronic device that regulates the current supplied by the alternator in accordance with
battery voltage.
If the battery is drained, the current has the value necessary to restore optimum operating conditions of the battery.
In contrast, if the battery is fully charged, the current value will be lower.
Note
Check the charging current using the DDS diagnosis instrument following the instructions given in the paragraph
“Checking the battery charging system” (Sect. 6 - 2).
Removal of the regulator

Loosen the retaining screws (3) and (4) and remove the right-hand conveyor (2) from the frame, together with regulator
(1).
Disconnect the generator connector (B) and main wiring harness (A) (Sect. 6 - 1, Routing of wiring on frame).
Remove the regulator (1) from the RH air scoop (2) by unscrewing the two screws (5).
Important
Do not disconnect the battery cables when engine is running because this would cause irreparable damage to the
regulator.
Refitting the regulator

Check that the two threaded clips (6) are installed on the RH air scoop (2) and positioning as shown in the figure.
Fix the regulator (1) to the RH air scoop (2) with the two screws (5).
Connect the generator connector (B) and main wiring harness (A) (Sect. 6 - 1, Routing of wiring on frame).
Note
In order to correctly route regulator cable, indicated with reference numbers (25) and (26), follow instructions given in
Tables E and H under “Routing of wiring on frame”, Sect. 6 - 1.
Refit the right-hand conveyor (2) together with regulator (1) to frame, then tighten the screws (3) and (4) to a torque of
5 Nm ± 10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Regulator fuse
The 30 A fuse (1) located on the airbox protects the electronic regulator.
A blown fuse can be identified by breakage of the inner filament (B)

To gain access to fuse, proceed as follows: remove the seat, so insert the key in the lock and simultaneously apply
downward pressure in the area of the catch to release the pin.
A blown fuse can be identified by breakage of the inner filament (B)
Important
Switch the ignition key to OFF before replacing a fuse to avoid possible short circuits.
Warning
Never use a fuse with a rating other than the specified value. Failure to observe this rule may damage the electric system
or even cause fire.
Refitting is the reverse of removal.

P
Electric starting system
3 -Electric starting system
Note
The references of the elements listed below are those of the “Wiring diagram”, Sect. 6 - 1.

The key components of the electric starting system are a contactor (7) and a starter motor (6) fed by the battery (8).
The engine starting strategy is managed entirely by the engine ECU (28), which monitors the following inputs:
- Engine Stop switch on right-hand handlebar switch (1)
- Engine starter switch on right-hand handlebar switch (1)
- Neutral sensor (30)
- Side stand sensor (27)
- Clutch microswitch (43).
When these inputs are combined in the required manner, the engine control unit (28) enables engine starting.
The table lists possible engine starting combinations.

In accordance with the status of specific engine control unit inputs and the indications given in the table, the control unit
enables operation of the starter motor (ON status) when the START button is pressed.
X = generic status of neutral sensor, clutch, and side stand.
Safety device functions table
Starter motor
Power:
700 W with 12 V power.
Direction of rotation:
counter clockwise viewed from power take-off side.
The starter motor is highly compact and reliable and therefore rarely gives any type of problem. In case of malfunction,
ensure that the starter motor wiring terminal is properly tightened under the nut and shows no sign of corrosion. If the
terminal is properly tightened and free from corrosion, remove the starter motor and test it under no-load conditions (no
load applied to the shaft). Secure the starter motor to a test bench, making sure you do not damage the casing. Use a
fully charged 12 V battery for the test. Use battery-motor connection cables which are no longer than 70 cm and with the
same cross-section as the cable on the motorcycle itself. Connect the negative terminal of the battery to an unpainted
area of the starter motor casing and the positive terminal to its electrical terminal. The shaft of the starter motor should
rotate freely and at high speed. Take care not to short-circuit the two cables connected to the battery.
Removal of the starter motor

filter cartridge
control
Undo the screws (D) and remove the sprocket cover (C).
Remove the generator cover (Sect. 9 - 8, Removal of the generator cover).

Undo the nut (A).
Disconnect the starter motor/solenoid cable (3) (see table in paragraph “Routing of wiring on frame”, Sect. 6 - 1).
Unscrew the retaining screws (1).
Note
The starter motor retaining screws are assembled with threadlocker.
Slide out the starter motor and gasket (2).
Refitting the starter motor

Inspect the condition of the gasket (2) and renew if necessary.
Place the gasket (2) and the starter motor on the crankcase and tighten the retaining screws (1) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11
Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings).
Apply the recommended grease to the nut (A).

Place the starter motor/solenoid cable (3) and tighten the nut (A) to a torque of 5 Nm±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque
settings).
Refit the generator cover (Sect. 9 - 8, Refitting the generator cover).

Refit the sprocket cover (C) tightening the screws (D) to a torque of 6 Nm ± 10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).

transmission unit
mechanism
filter cartridge
Starter contactor
The starter motor contactor (1) is elastically mounted to the airbox.
Disconnect the battery (Sect. 6 - 2, Battery).
To reach the solenoid starter it is necessary to remove the seat, so insert the key in the lock and simultaneously apply
downward pressure in the area of the catch to release the pin.
Disconnect the wiring connector (2) of the starter contactor from the wiring harness.
Remove the solenoid starter (1) from its housing.
Remove the protective caps (A).
Undo the nuts (6), taking care to collect the spring washers (7).
Remove the starter motor-contactor cable (8).
Remove the contactor-battery cable (9).
Checking operation of the starter solenoid

Apply 12 V (battery voltage) across the positive terminal (B) and negative terminal (C) of the connector.
With a multimeter connected between the two poles (threaded pins (C) and (D) of the contactor, check for electric
continuity (Sect. 6 - 13, Using a multimeter to check the electrical systems). If there is no electrical continuity, renew the
solenoid.
On refitting, ensure that terminals (C) and (D) are not oxidised.
Connect the wires (8) and (9) to the contactor terminals.
Insert the two bolts (7) and the nuts (6).
Tighten the nuts (6) to a torque of 4 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Spray suitable protectant onto nuts (6).
Install solenoid starter (1) engaging it onto tabs (E), positioning it as shown in the figures.
Refit the wiring connector (2) to the wiring and refit the protective caps (A).
Reconnect the battery (Sect. 6 - 2, Battery).

Refit the remaining parts in the reverse order with respect to disassembly.
Lights and indicating devices
4 -Lights and indicating devices

Renewal of the headlight
Undo the screws (8) and remove the instrument panel shroud (1).
Disconnect the instrument panel connector (A) from the main wiring harness (refer to the tables of paragraph “Routing of
wiring on frame“, Sect. 6 - 1).
Disconnect the headlight connector (B) and the front turn indicator connectors from the main wiring harness (refer to the
tables of paragraph “Routing of wiring on frame”, Sect. 6 - 1). Unscrew the nuts (2) securing the front light assembly to
the bottom yoke. Remove plate (C) that is released when loosening nut (2) on the left-hand side.
Remove the complete headlight sliding out pins (D) from the mounting bracket.
Release the headlight from the front light assembly by unscrewing the screws (3).
Remove the front turn indicators (4) by removing the circlip (5) and unscrewing the screw (6).
Note
The US version fits a spacer (T) between turn indicator and headlight mount.
Refitting is the reverse of removal: if removed, refit the rubber blocks (7) to headlight finger-tight, apply a drop of clear
universal silicone onto rubber block (7) where indicated.
Duly install the safety washers (8) onto rubber block.
Note
Ensure the two safety washers are perfectly glued onto rubber block and can not come off.
If removed, reposition the turn indicators to headlight mount, with the drain slot (F) facing down; position the stop plate
(5) as shown.
Apply the recommended threadlocker to the screws (6). Start the screws (6) in their thread ensuring that the slot on stop
plate (5) perfectly matches the tabs on turn indicators. Tighten the screws (6) to a tightening torque of 3 Nm ±10%
Note
For the US version you shall install spacer (T) between turn signal and headlight support. Position spacer with slot facing
down. Route the turn signal wiring through the slot on spacer bottom, ensuring not to leave it too taut or the fast-on
connectors inside the turn indicators might detach.
Position the headlight to the headlight support and set it as shown, ensuring that the turn indicator wiring is not squashed
under the headlight.
Fit the spacers (7) and the screws (3). Tighten the screws (3) to a torque of 5 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque
settings).
Position the headlight cover (8), setting it as shown onto headlight support (9).
Insert a spacer (7) to a screw (10), positioning it as indicated.

Start screw (10) in its thread on the central clip (11) of headlight cover (8).
Start the other two screws (10) in their thread on the side clips (11) of headlight cover (8).
Reconnect headlight (B) and turn indicator (E) connectors.
Reconnect the instrument panel wiring (A).
Position connector (B) onto plate (C) and the latter on the bottom yoke, fastening it with nut (2). Tighten the nuts (2) to
a torque of 10 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Refit the instrument panel cover (1) tightening the screws (8) to a torque of 1.5 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque
settings).
Changing bulbs
Changing the headlight bulbs

Before replacing a burnt out light bulb, ensure that the replacement bulb has the same voltage and power rating as
specified for the lighting device in question (Sect. 3 - 1.1, Lights/instrument panel).
Warning
The halogen light bulbs in the headlight become hot when switched on and remain hot for some time after they are
switched off. Allow bulbs to cool before replacing them.
The position of the light bulbs in the headlight is as indicated below: low beam (LO), high beam (HI) and parking light (A).
Remove the headlight, as described in the paragraph “Renewal of the headlight“ of this section.
To access the headlight bulb unscrew the four screws (1) and remove the cover (2).
High beam (HI)

Disconnect the wiring connector (3) from the headlight bulb (4).
Release the retaining clip (5).

The bulb (4) has a bayonet base: press and twist counter clockwise to remove.
Fit the new bulb (4), insert the tabs on the bulb base into the corresponding slots to ensure the bulb is correctly
positioned, push the bulb in and turn clockwise until it clicks into place.
Refit the connector (3) to the lamp (4), the cover (2) to the headlight, then tighten the screws (1).
Low beam (LO)

To change the Lo beam headlight bulb (6) see the procedure described above for the Hi beam headlight bulb.
Replace the lamp with a new one of the same type and rating (Sect. 3 - 1.1, Lights/instrument panel).
Note
Do not touch the transparent part of the bulb with your fingers, this will darken it and cause a loss of brightness.
Side lights (A)

To replace the side light bulb, withdraw the bulb holder (7) from the rear of the headlight. Extract the bulb and renew it.
Changing the number plate lamps

To access the lamp in the number plate light (8), open the number plate lens (9), pull the lamp out of the holder and
replace it.
High beam headlights relay

Located alongside the battery and fixed to the battery support. To reach this component it is necessary to remove the
seat, so insert the key in the lock and simultaneously apply downward pressure in the area of the catch to release the pin.
Remove the elastic retaining strap (2) and slide out the battery (1).
The high beam relay (3) has been added to the electrical circuit to enable the lights power down strategy. This strategy is
as follows:
A if the lights are on during normal riding, they switch off 60 seconds after pressing the engine “Stop button“ (4) and key
ON; they switch back on the moment the motorcycle is started again;
B if the lights are switched on, they will switch off automatically after 60 seconds after key ON if the engine remains
stopped.
If this strategy is not performed, check the correct operation of the various parts involved.
Checking operation of the high beam lights relay

Disconnect the relay (1) from the electrical system and apply 12 V (battery voltage) between contacts (86) and (85)
(small contacts): you should hear a click that confirms that the internal electromagnet has switched.
Connect a multimeter to contacts (30) and (87) (big contacts) to check for the full scale reading (analogue tester) or
buzzer (digital tester). If this does not occur, the part must be renewed.
Headlight aim
The motorcycle must be perfectly upright with the tires inflated to the correct pressure and with a rider seated, perfectly
perpendicular to the longitudinal axis.
Position the motorcycle 10 metres from a wall or a screen.
On the wall or surface, draw a horizontal line at the same height from the ground as the centre of the headlight and a
vertical line aligned with the longitudinal axis of the motorcycle.
Note
If possible, perform this check in conditions of low ambient light.
Switch on the low beam. The height of the upper limit between the dark area and the lit area must not be more than nine
tenths of the height of the centre of the headlight from the ground.
Note
This is the procedure specified by Italian regulations for checking the maximum height of the light beam.
The vertical alignment of the headlamp can be adjusted manually by turning screw (1).
Turn the screw (2) to set beam height.
Indicating devices
5 -Indicating devices
Checking the indicating devices
In the event of a fault, the internal connections of the device must be checked in all operating conditions. To do this, it is
necessary to disconnect the switch connector from the main wiring harness (Sect. 6 - 1, Routing of wiring on frame).
Then analyse the switch using an analogue or digital MULTIMETER (Sect. 6 - 13, Using a multimeter to check the electrical
systems).
Note
The same test may be done using the “DDS” tester (Sect. 6 - 13, DDS diagnosis instrument).
Checking the left-hand handlebar switch

To remove the left-hand handlebar switch, undo the fixing screws (1) and disconnect it from the electric system.
The colours mentioned in the following descriptions refer to the colours of the wires from the switch and not to the colours
of the wires of the main electric system.
HORN button
Connect the terminals of a multimeter to the Blue/White and Brown cables to check for electrical continuity, which must
be available when HORN is pressed (see Sect. 6 - 13, “Using a multimeter to check the electrical systems“, related to
multimeter operation). When HORN button is pressed, resistance value taken by the multimeter should be close to zero
and, if available, a continuity beep should be heard. When the horn button is not pressed, the resistance value should be
infinity (there is no continuity as the electrical contacts inside the pushbutton are open) and no continuity beep should be
heard. If these conditions are not met, the device must be replaced.
Turn signal switch (Turn)

Connect the multimeter to the Grey and Brown cables arriving from the turn signal switch and check for electrical
continuity when operating the right turn signal (see Sect. 6 - 13, “Using a multimeter to check the electrical systems“,
related to operation of the multimeter). Repeat the above procedure for the right turn signal, but connect the multimeter
to the (Orange and Grey) wires.
Low and high beam headlights (DIMMER).

Test using the same procedure, applying the probes of the meter to the cables: (RED/BLUE AND LIGHT BLUE/YELLOW).
Control switch (MODE)

Connect the multimeter to the Brown and Blue/Yellow cables arriving from the function selector switch and check that
when operating the pushbutton in the (s) position there is electrical continuity (Sect. 6 - 13, “Using a multimeter to check
the electrical systems“, related to operation of the multimeter). Repeat the same procedure, operating the push button in
the (t) position, connecting the multimeter to the Blue/Yellow and Orange cables.
Flasher (PASSING)
Check for continuity between the RED/BLUE AND BROWN cables.
Refit the left-hand switch, tightening the screws (1) to a torque of 2.5 Nm ±10 (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Indicating devices
Checking the right-hand handlebar switch

To remove the right-hand handlebar switch, undo the retaining screws (1) and disconnect the wiring connector from the
electric system.
The colours mentioned in the following descriptions refer to the colours of the wires from the switch and not to the colours
of the wires of the main electric system.
Engine Stop button

Using a multimeter, check for electrical continuity between the RED/WHITE AND RED/BLACK cables (see Sect. 6 - 13,
Using a multimeter to check the electrical systems, for information on the operation of the multimeter). When the switch
is in the RUN position, there should be electrical continuity between the two wires. When the switch is in the OFF position
there should be no electrical continuity between the two wires.
If these conditions are not met, the ENGINE STOP switch is not working correctly and must be renewed.
STARTER button
Proceed as described for the engine stop button and check for electrical continuity between the BLUE/WHITE AND BLACK
cables when the STARTER button is pressed (see Sect. 6 - 13, Using a multimeter to check the electrical systems
concerning operation of the multimeter). If there is no continuity, the STARTER switch is defective and must be renewed.
Refit the right-hand switch, tightening the screws (1) to a torque of 2.5 Nm ±10 (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Indicating devices
Checking the front and rear brake light switches, neutral light switch, oil pressure switch and clutch switch
Brake light switches
To check operation of the front (1) and rear (2) stop lights use a multimeter to check that when the front or rear brake is
pressed, there is electrical continuity (Pos. A) between the terminals of the corresponding switch (Sect. 6 - 13, Using a
multimeter to check the electrical systems, related to operation of the multimeter). When the brake is released, there
must be no electrical continuity across the terminals of the corresponding switch (Pos. B). If these tests fail to produce
positive results, the part in question must be renewed.
Indicating devices
Neutral indicator light

To check the neutral light switch (3) proceed as follows.
The neutral light does not illuminate on the instrument panel.

Remove the electric terminal connected to the neutral switch. Switch on the ignition switch (ignition key to ON position)
and ensure that the light illuminates when the terminal is earthed. If the light switches on, the neutral light switch should
be changed. If the light stays off, switch off the ignition (ignition key set to OFF) to switch off the instrument panel and
check for electrical continuity between the neutral switch and engine ECU with a multimeter.
The neutral light on the instrument panel is permanently illuminated.

Switch on the ignition (ignition key set to ON) and remove the electrical terminal from the neutral switch. If the light
turns off, the neutral switch should be changed. If the light stays off, switch off the ignition (ignition key set to OFF) and
use a multimeter to check whether the section of circuit between neutral switch and engine ECU is earthed.
Oil pressure sensor

To test the operation of the engine oil pressure sensor (4), proceed as follows.
Use the DDS to check that oil pressure into the engine oil circuit complies with the specified values (Sect. 6 - 13, Check
the engine oil pressure).
If the engine oil pressure value is outside the specified range, check the oil circuit components and service as necessary.
If engine oil pressure value is within the specified range and the oil pressure warning light on the instrument panel stays
off, switch on the instrument panel (ignition key set to ON) without starting the engine, and disconnect the electrical
terminal from the pressure sensor and connect it to earth. If the warning light now illuminates, this means the sensor is
defective and must be replaced. If the warning light does not illuminate, use a multimeter and check for electrical
continuity in the section of the circuit between sensor and warning light on the instrument panel (this check must be
performed with the ignition key set to OFF, i.e. with instrument panel off).
If the engine oil pressure complies with the stated values and the engine oil pressure warning light on the instrument
panel is continuously illuminated, switch on the instrument panel (ignition key set to ON) and start the engine, then
disconnect the electrical terminal normally inserted on the pressure sensor. If the warning light now switches off, this
means the sensor is defective. If the warning light does not switch off, use a multimeter to check that the section of the
circuit between sensor and warning light on the instrument panel is not connected to earth (this check must be performed
with the ignition key set to OFF, i.e. instrument panel off).
Indicating devices
Clutch switch
For the clutch switch (5) proceed in the same manner as for the brake light switches (see beginning of this paragraph).
Changing light bulbs
Changing the turn signal light bulbs

Undo the screw (1) and detach the lens (2) from the turn signal support (3).
The bulb has a bayonet-type end fitting: to remove it, push it in and turn it counter-clockwise.
To remove the support (3), for the front turn indicators refer to Sect. 6 - 4, Renewal of the headlight, while for the rear
turn indicators refer to Sect. 7 - 18, Removal of the tail light-protection-number plate holder assembly.
Push in the new bulb and turn it clockwise until it clicks into place.
Refit the lens by inserting the tab (A) in the corresponding slot in the turn signal support.
Tighten the screw (1).
Protection and safety devices
6 -Protection and safety devices

Checking protection and safety device components
Checking the key switch

Disconnect the ignition key (A) from the electric system by opening its connection (see “Routing of wiring on frame“,
Sect. 6 - 1) and use a multimeter to check continuity of its internal connections as follows:
- turn the key to OFF and connect a multimeter to contacts (1) and (4) to check electrical continuity (Sect. 6 - 13, Using a
multimeter to check the electrical systems, concerning operation of the multimeter). The resistance reading should be
near zero and, if present, the audible continuity signal should be emitted;
turn the key to ON and connect the multimeter to contacts (1) and (2) and then to (3) and (4) to check for electrical
continuity. The resistance reading should be near zero and, if present, the audible continuity signal should be emitted;
- turn the key to PARK and connect the multimeter to contacts (1) and (4) to check electrical continuity. The resistance
reading should be near zero and, if present, the audible continuity signal should be emitted;
- turn the key to LOCK and connect the multimeter to contacts (1) and (4) to check for electrical continuity. The resistance
reading should be near zero and, if present, the continuity sound signal should be emitted.
Note
Checking the side stand switch

Remove the switch (1) from the side stand undoing screw (2) and disconnect the main wiring connector from the switch
(see paragraph “Routing of wiring on frame“, Sect. 6 - 1).
Use an analogue or digital multimeter (Sect. 6 - 13, Using a multimeter to check the electrical systems) to check switch
operation (see table).
Note
Pos. pin (A) El. item Rating.
l-s 0 X
s-n X 0
Multimeter pos. Green/ Green/

Green Yellow
White Black
0 = Open contact
X = Closed contact
Refit switch (1) to side stand and tighten the screw (2) to a torque of 5 Nm ±10 (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Checking the fuses

The main fuse box (1) is located on the right-hand side of the frame.
The fuses are accessed by removing the cover, which shows the ampere ratings and mounting locations.
For ampere ratings, refer to the chapter “Routing of wiring on frame”, Sect. 6 - 1.
Important
Before replacing a damaged fuse with a new one of the same rating, identify the cause of the problem.
A blown fuse can be identified by the breakage of inner filament (A).
Important
Switch the ignition key to OFF before replacing a fuse to avoid possible short circuits.
Warning
Never use a fuse with a rating other than the specified value. Failure to observe this rule may damage the electric system
or even cause fire.
In addition to the fuses in the fuse box, the vehicle features a 30 A fuse (2), located next to the ECU, that protects the
electronic regulator (Sect. 6 - 2, Rectifier-regulator).
Instruments
7 -Instruments
Instrument panel
Undo the screws (2) and remove the instrument panel shroud (1).
Disconnect the wiring (A) from the instrument panel (3).
Undo the screws (4) and remove the instrument panel (3) from the front lights assembly support.
For reassembling perform the disassembling operations in the reverse order, in particular tighten the screws (4) to a
torque of 3 Nm ±10% and the screws (2) to a torque of 1.5 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Instrument panel system

The instrument panel comprises an LCD digital display unit.
Instruments
The information on the display can be accessed using a 2-position rocker switch (1) and the headlight flash button (2) on
the left-hand handlebar switch.
Underneath the digital display there are six indicator lights (three per side) and a further auxiliary light that illuminates
when the engine rpm exceeds the rev limiter threshold.
The instrument panel is equipped with a sensor that detects the intensity of the ambient light. The instrument panel
automatically switches its backlighting on or off according to the intensity of light detected. The instrument panel also has
an internal temperature sensor which, if the temperature rises above 70 °C, switches off the backlighting to prevent
possible damage.
The instrument panel also houses the atmospheric pressure sensor: the engine ECU acquires this signal via the CAN
(Controller Area Network) serial communication line.
Indicator lights
The following indicator lights are mounted on the instrument panel:
3) NEUTRAL LIGHT N (GREEN): illuminates when the gearbox is in neutral.
4) FUEL WARNING INDICATOR (AMBER YELLOW): illuminates when there are approximately there are about 3 litres of
fuel left in the tank.
5) TURN SIGNAL LIGHTS (GREEN): illuminate and flash when the corresponding turn signal is in operation.
If a turn signal does not work (e.g. burnt out bulb) its incorrect operation is signalled by making the light flash twice as
fast as in comparison to correct operation.
6) ENGINE OIL PRESSURE LIGHT (RED): Illuminates when engine oil pressure is too low. This light should come on when
the ignition is switched to ON and normally goes out a few seconds after engine starts. The case may occur that the light
turns on briefly if the engine is very hot; it will turn off as the engine rpms increase.
7) HIGH BEAM LIGHT (BLUE): illuminates when the high beam headlight is on.
8) “ENGINE/VEHICLE DIAGNOSIS - EOBD” INDICATOR (AMBER YELLOW): It turns on in the case of an engine or
motorcycle error; in some cases the engine will be locked.
9) OVER REV. WARNING LIGHT: It comes on steady when the first rev limiter threshold (*) is reached. Starts flashing
when the rev limiter is reached.
10) ABS LIGHT (AMBER YELLOW).
Engine off / speed below 5 Km/h
Instruments
Light off Light flashing Light steady

ABS disabled with the menu ABS enabled but not
-
function “DISAB ABS” (*) functioning yet
Engine on / speed below 5 Km/h
ABS disabled with the menu ABS enabled but not
-
function “DISAB ABS” functioning yet
Engine on / speed above 5 Km/h
ABS enabled ABS disabled with the menu ABS disabled and not
and functioning function “DISAB ABS” functioning due to a
problem.
(*) depending on the model, each calibration of the Engine Control Unit may have a different “setting“ for the thresholds
that precede the rev limiter and the rev limiter itself.
(**) The ABS should be considered actually disabled only if the light continues to flash after starting the engine.
Display settings and functions

On switching on the power (key turned from OFF to ON), the instrument panel activates all the digits of the LCD for
1 second and switches on all the warning lights in sequence.
It then reverts to “normal” mode and, in place of the odometer, shows the model and, for 2 seconds, also the version
(EU, UK, USA, CND, FRA, JAP).
The model is scrolled on the display once only.
Instruments
At Key-On, the instrument panel always shows the following information (de-activating any previously activated
functions):
Odometer
speed
Rpm bargraph
Engine oil temperature bargraph.
With the switch (1, fig. 8) in position B “t” the Odometer readout (TOT) will cycle through the following functions:
TRIP
TRIP FUEL (only if active)
Clock
before returning to Odometer display.
Pressing switch (1) in position A “s“ gives access to the MENU and the following functions are displayed one after another:
ERROR (only if active)
BATT
RPM
LIGHT SET
LAP (OFF or ON)
LAP MEM
DDA (OFF or ON)
Erase DDA
DISAB ABS
CLOCK SETTING
CODE (only if active)
Instruments
Important
This menu is enabled only if the speed of the vehicle is less than 20 km/h. If this menu is on the display and the speed
of the motorcycle exceeds 20 km/h, the instrument panel automatically exits the menu and returns to the initial display.
It is possible to exit the menu at any time, however, by pressing switch (1) in position A “s” for 3 seconds.
Total distance travelled indicator (odometer)

At Key-On the system automatically enters this function.
The total distance travelled value is stored permanently in memory cannot be reset for any reason (except during the
immobilizer first programming procedure when its reset to zero).
If it exceeds 99999 km (or 99999 miles), the reading “99999” remains displayed permanently.
“Speed” indicator
This function enables display of the motorcycle speed.
The instrument panel receives actual speed value (expressed in km/h) from the ECU and displays the value increased by
8%.
Maximum speed displayed is 299 km/h (186 mph).
Over 299 km/h (186 mph) the display will show a series of dashes “- - -“ (steadily lit - not flashing).
Instruments
“TRIP“ meter
Holding button (1) pressed in position B “t“ for 3 seconds when this function is displayed resets the trip meter.
If the reading exceeds 999.9, it is reset to zero and the count restarts automatically.
If the System units of measurement are changed at any time with the “Setting Special” Function, the reading in this
Function is reset and the count restarts from zero in the newly set unit of measurement.
Instruments
“TRIP FUEL” (distance travelled on reserve fuel) indicator

When the fuel warning light (4) comes on, the TRIP FUEL meter is activated automatically, regardless of the function
displayed. If the fuel level remains in reserve, the reading is saved even after Key-Off.
The count stops automatically when the fuel level rises above reserve.
If the reading exceeds 999.9, it is reset and the count restarts automatically.
Clock display indicator

This function shows the time.
Time is always displayed as follows:
AM from 0:00 to 11:59
PM from 12:00 to 11:59
If battery power is suddenly cut off (Batt-OFF), when battery power is restored and upon next Key-On, the clock is reset
and restarts operating from “0:00“.
Instruments
Air temperature indicator

Shows the outside air temperature.
Display limits: -39 °C to +124 °C
In the event of a sensor FAULT (-40°C, +125°C or disconnected), a string of dashes “- - -“ (not flashing) is displayed and
the “Vehicle/Engine diagnosis - EOBD“ light comes on.
Coolant temperature indicator

This function describes the engine oil temperature indicator.
Possible display modes:

if the temperature is between -40 °C and +80 °C, the display shows “STATUS 2”;
if the temperature is between +81 °C and +110 °C, the display shows “STATUS 3”;
if the temperature is ≥ 201 °C the display shows “STATUS 9” with the series of flashing marks.
In case of sensor FAULT, “STATUS 1” is displayed flashing.
Instruments
Maintenance indicator
Indicates that the next service is due.
The indicator ( ) signals when the next service is due.
The service indicator is displayed at the following intervals:
- after the first 1000 km on the odometer;
- every 12000 km on the odometer.
The service indicator will remain on the display until reset.
Instrument panel diagnosis
Important
The instrument runs the system diagnosis correctly 60 seconds after the last Key-Off.
Instruments
This function allows you to display and identify malfunctions of the motorcycle and, where possible, renew components
identified as faulty.
To display this function, enter the menu and select the “Error” page.
This menu is only present if at least one error is detected, otherwise this page will NOT appear.
If there are several errors, they are displayed in rolling mode every 3 seconds.
In any case, a more detailed diagnosis can be obtained using the Ducati Diagnostic System.
Warning
Every time an error is displayed, always contact an authorised Ducati Service Centre.
Warning light Error message Error
TPS 01 Throttle position sensor short circuit Volt DC or AC
TPS 01 Throttle position sensor short circuit GND
PRESS 02 Throttle position sensor short circuit Volt DC
PRESS 02 Throttle position sensor short circuit GND or AC
OIL 03 Oil NTC sensor short circuit Volt DC or AC
OIL 03 Oil NTC sensor short circuit GND
T AIR 04 Air temperature sensor short circuit GND or AC
T AIR 04 Air temperature sensor short circuit Volt DC
BATT 05 LOW battery voltage level
BATT 05 HIGH battery voltage level
LAMB 06 Lambda sensor (rim runout)
LAMB 06 Lambda sensor heater short circuit Volt DC
LAMB 06 Lambda sensor heater short circuit GND or AC
FUEL 07 Fuel reserve NTC sensor short circuit Volt DC or AC
FUEL 07 Fuel reserve NTC sensor short circuit GND
COIL 09 Vertical coil (2) short circuit Volt DC
COIL 09 Vertical coil (2) short circuit Volt DC or AC
COIL 09 Horizontal coil (1) short circuit Volt DC
COIL 09 Horizontal coil (1) short circuit Volt DC or AC
Instruments
INJE 10 Vertical injector (2) short circuit Volt DC
INJE 10 Vertical injector (2) short circuit Volt DC or AC
INJE 10 Horizontal injector (1) short circuit Volt DC
INJE 10 Horizontal injector (1) short circuit Volt DC or AC
START 12 Solenoid starter short circuit Volt DC
START 12 Solenoid starter short circuit GND or AC
R INJ 13 Injection relay AC
STEPP 14 Stepper motor AC
STEPP 14 Stepper motor short circuit Volt DC
STEPP 14 Stepper motor short circuit GND
EXVL 15 Seek Fail or Position Error Exhaust Valve Motor
EXVL 15 Position sensor short circuit GND or AC
EXVL 15 Position sensor short circuit Volt DC
EXVL 15 Starter motor damaged / not functioning
ECU 16 ECU (generic error)
PKUP 17 Pick-up sensor
SPEED 18 Speed sensor
IMMO 19 Immobilizer (key missing)
IMMO 19 Immobilizer (antenna disconnected)
IMMO 19 Immobilizer (key not recognised)
CAN 20 CAN line
LIGHT 21 Light relay
Instruments
Battery voltage indicator (BATT)

To display this function, go into the menu and select the “BATT” page.
The battery voltage reading is displayed as follows:
- if the reading is between 12.1 and 14.9 Volts, it is steadily illuminated on the display;
- if the reading is between 10.0 and 12.0 Volts or between 15.0 and 16.0 Volts, it flashes on the display;
- if the reading is less than or equal to 9.9 Volts, the message “LO” flashes on the display and the “EOBD engine
diagnostics” warning light (8) comes on;
- if the reading is greater than or equal to 16.1 Volts, the message “HI” flashes on the display and the “EOBD engine
diagnostics” warning light (8) comes on.
Engine idle speed adjustment (rpm)

To display the function, access the menu and select the “RPM” page.
In addition to the upper rev counter scale, the display also shows engine rpm numerically so that you can adjust the idle
speed more precisely.
Instruments
Backlighting adjustment
To adjust the backlighting, enter the menu and select the “LIGHT SET” page.
Press the button (1) in position B “t” for 3 seconds in this page to access the setup mode and the following pages will be
displayed in sequence:
page 1 - “LIGHT MAX” setting:

This page sets backlighting to maximum brightness; press button (1) in position B “t” to go to page 2.
page 2 - “LIGHT MID” setting:

This page reduces the backlighting by approximately 30% relative to maximum brightness; press button (1) in position B
“t” to go to page 3.
page 3 - “LIGHT MIN” setting:

This page reduces the backlighting by approximately 70% relative to maximum brightness; press button (1) in position B
“t” to go to page 1.
If you press the button (1) in position B “t” for 3 seconds in one these three pages, the instrument panel goes back to the
“LIGHT SET“ page and stores the selected backlighting setup.
In the event of an interruption of the power supply from the battery, when power is restored at the next Key-On, the
backlighting will be set by default to maximum brightness.
Instruments
LAP function
To enable this function, enter the menu and set the “LAP“ function to “On“ by holding switch (1) pressed in position B “t“
for 3 seconds.
Instruments
START and STOP the timer by pressing the high beam FLASH switch (2) on the left-hand handlebar switch.
When the LAP function is active, each time you press the flasher switch, the display will show the lap time for 10 seconds,
before reverting to normal mode.
You can save a maximum of 30 laps in the memory.
If the memory is full, each time you press the flasher switch, the display will not save any more lap times and will display
the flashing message “FULL” for 3 seconds until the memory is reset.
When you switch the LAP function off from the menu, the lap in progress will not be saved.
If the LAP function is active and the display is suddenly switched off (Key-Off), the LAP function is switched off
automatically (even if the timer was ON, the lap in progress is not saved).
If the lap timer is not stopped, it will roll over upon reaching 9 minutes, 59 seconds and 99 hundredths; the lap timer
starts counting from 0 (zero) and will keep running until the function is disabled.
If, however, the LAP function is switched on and the memory has not been cleared, but fewer than 30 laps have been
saved (e.g. 18 laps), the display will save any remaining laps until the memory is saturated (in this case, it will save a
further 12 laps).
This function only displays lap times once; however, lap times are saved for subsequent display in the Lap Memory
function.
Instruments
LAP Memory display

Displays the data saved using the LAP function: lap number and time.
To display the saved lap times, enter the menu and select the “LAP MEM” page.
Holding switch (1) pressed in position B “t“ in this menu page accesses the “1st lap“ view mode. The display will show the
lap number, lap time, MAX speed and the MAX rpm reached for the lap in question.
Press switch (1) in position B “t“ repeatedly to scroll through the 30 laps stored until returning to the 1 st lap.
If you press switch (1) in position B “t“ for 3 seconds while the saved times are displayed, the display immediately resets
all the saved times; in this case, if the LAP function was active, it is switched off automatically.
The MAX speed saved is the maximum speed indicated on the display in Lap function.
To exit display of the lap times memory press switch (1) in position A “s”.
If no lap times are saved in memory, all 30 lap times will be displayed as “0.00.00”.
Instruments
If the engine trips the rev limiter during a lap, the “OVER REV.” indicator light will come on during display of the lap time.
(9).
DDA data acquisition

This function serves to activate the DDA (Ducati Data Analyzer): in order to acquire data, the DDA must be connected to
the motorcycle wiring loom.
To enable data acquisition, enter the menu and set the “DDA“ function to “On“ by holding switch (1) pressed in position B
“t“ for 3 seconds.
To START and STOP the lap separator press the high beam FLASH button (2) on the left-hand handlebar switch.
If the DDA function is active and the motorcycle is suddenly switched off (Key-Off), the function is switched off
automatically.
Note
Online assistance is available to Ducati Data Analyzer (DDA) owners (http://dda.prosa.com). This service will provide
anything necessary to correctly use the DDA with your PC: both for the device and the software for analysing the
recorded data.
Warning
Instruments
After use, disconnect the DDA from the main wiring harness.
Erase DDA
This function enables you to delete the data saved on the DDA: the DDA must be connected to the motorcycle wiring.
To delete the data, enter the menu and select the “Erase DDA” page.
If you press switch (1) in position B “t“ for 3 seconds and the DDA is not acquiring data, the message “WAIT…” is shown
on the display for 10 seconds. After 10 seconds, the message “ERASE OK” appears for 3 seconds, to confirm that the DDA
data has been deleted.
If switch (1) is pressed in the B “t“ position for 3 seconds while the DDA data logger is acquiring data, the data logger
memory is not erased and the display shows message “FAIL“ for 3 seconds.
Instruments
ABS disabling function (796 ABS)

This function disables the ABS control unit.
This operation must be carried out with the vehicle stopped (key ON).
To disable the ABS control unit, access the menu on the “DISAB ABS” page and hold down switch (1) in position B “t“ for
3 seconds.
At the end of the 3 seconds, the flashing ABS light (10) on the instrument panel indicates the disabling.
From this moment, the ABS control unit is disabled; it is automatically re-enabled at the next Key-Off / Key-On.
At the next Key-On the instrument panel indicates that it is operative by keeping the ABS light (10) off.
If there are problems with the ABS system, the instrument panel indicates its malfunction by keeping the ABS light (10)
on steady, the EOBD light (8) on steady and the ABS error in the menu.
Important
This indicator is activated only at a speed above or equal to 10 km/h; at a speed lower than 10 km/h the ABS control unit
does not perform the diagnostics.
Instruments
Clock setting function

To set the clock, enter the menu and select the “SET” page.
Holding switch (1) pressed in position B “t“ for 3 seconds in this menu page gives access to the setup mode.
On entering this mode, the message “AM” will flash; if you press switch (1) in position B “t” the message “PM” flashes; if
you press switch (1) in position B “t” the mode will go back to previous setting (if it is 00:00, when toggling from “AM” to
“PM”, 12:00 will be displayed). Pressing switch (1) in position A “s“ gives access to the hour setting mode; hours start to
flash. Each time you press the button in position B “t“, the digit will increase by one hour. If the switch is held pressed in
position B “t” the number increases cyclically in steps of one hour every second (when the switch is held depressed, the
hours do not flash).
Pressing switch (1) in position A “s“ gives access to the minute setting mode; minutes start to flash. Each time you press
the button in position B “t“, the digit will increase by one minute. If you hold the switch down in position B “t”, the count
increases cyclically in steps of 1 minute every second. If the button is held depressed in position B “t“ for over 5 seconds,
minutes will increase by 1 minute every 100ms (while the button is held depressed in position B “t“, seconds will not
flash). Pressing the button in position A “s“, exits setup mode and the new time is displayed.
Note
If the power supply is disconnected (Battery-Off), the time setting is lost. When power is restored (Battery-On), the
display will show 0:00. Set the time according to the normal procedure.
Instruments
Programming the immobilizer

This instrument panel function enables programming of the Immobilizer System.
Note
Only 2 keys may be programmed.
Insert KEY 1 (one of the two black keys) and turn the ignition switch from Off to On;
within 3 seconds turn the ignition switch from On to Off;
within 15 seconds insert KEY 2 (the other black key) and turn the ignition switch from Off to On;
within 3 seconds turn the ignition switch from On to Off;
within 15 seconds, insert KEY X again (either Key 1 or Key 2) and turn the ignition switch from Off to ON.
If the procedure was successful, the instrument panel will display the message “PROG. OK” steadily for 3 seconds before
returning to the normal display mode.
Programming aborted:
if you allow the 3 second countdown after Key-On or the 15 second countdown after Key-Off to elapse, or you make a
mistake in the programming procedure, the instrument panel will abort the programming operation and display
the message “PROG OFF” for 3 seconds before returning to normal display mode.
Important
During the programming procedure, the instrument panel, in addition to saving the key codes in its memory, retrieves two
“electronic” codes from the insertion of KEY 1 (the first black key to be inserted) and KEY 2 (the second black key to be
inserted).
If the immobilizer is reprogrammed, the key codes will be erased and replaced with the new codes of the new keys;
the two “electronic” codes, however, remain permanently in memory and cannot be deleted or overwritten.
The code on the Code Card corresponds to one of the two electronic codes and is used for the Immobilizer Recovery and
Immobilizer Reprogramming procedures.
Immobilizer override procedure

Should the immobilizer become locked, you can perform the “Immobilizer Override” procedure from the instrument panel
by entering the respective function as described below.
Select the “CODE” page from the menu.
Note
This menu should be active only if there is at least one immobilizer error.
With this page selected, the initial code is always displayed as “00000”. If you hold pressed switch (1) in position B “t“ for
3 seconds, you will access the procedure for entering the electronic code given on the Code Card.
Entering the code:

on entering this function, the first digit on the left starts flashing.
Switch (1):
each time you press the switch in position B “t”, the number increases cyclically in steps of one digit every second;
if you press the switch in position A “s”, you can set the second digit, which will start flashing. Each time you press the
Instruments
switch in position B “t”, the number increases cyclically in steps of one digit every second;
if you press the switch in position A “s”, you can set the third digit, which will start flashing. Each time you press the
if you press the switch in position A “s”, you can set the fourth digit, which will start flashing. Each time you press the
if you press the switch in position A “s”, you can set the fifth digit, which will start flashing. Each time you press the
press in position A “s” to confirm the code.
If the code entered is incorrect, the instrument panel will automatically return to the “CODE” menu and display the
code “00000”.
If the code has been entered correctly, the message CODE and the code itself will flash simultaneously for 4 seconds.
The EOBD diagnostics warning light (8) will go off. The instrument panel then automatically exits the menu, thus
temporarily allowing the motorcycle to be started.
Instruments
If the error is still present, at the next Key-On the instrument panel error and the inhibited status will persist.
Intelligent headlight switch-off

This function helps reduce battery use by automatically switching off the headlight. The device is triggered in 3 cases:
- in the first case, if you turn the key from OFF to ON and do not start the engine within 60 seconds, the headlight is
turned off and will be turned on again only when the engine is next switched on;
- in the second case, after the normal use of the motorcycle with the lights on, if the engine is stopped using the RUN-
STOP button on the right-hand handlebar switch. In this case, the headlight is switched off 60 seconds after the engine
is switched off, and only switched on again the next time the engine is started;
- in the third case, the headlight is switched off while the engine is being started and switched back on again when the
engine is running.
Intelligent headlight switch-on

This function allows programmed activation of the headlight even with the motorcycle off (Key-Off).
The instrument panel stays active for 60 seconds soon after Key-Off, and the headlight can be switched on by pressing
switch (1) in position A “s“ or B “t“.
During these 60 seconds, each time switch (1) is pressed in position A “s” or B “t”, the instrument panel will activate the
headlight for 30 seconds; each press of the switch will add to the headlight activation time, up to a maximum of 6 presses
(equivalent to a maximum activation time of 180 seconds).
After the first time you press switch (1) in position A “s” or B “t”, the period of 30 seconds starts, thus switching on the
headlight. Further switch-on time can be added only if you press the switch again within these 30 seconds. If the 30
seconds have elapsed, no further multiples of 30 seconds can be added, and the instrument panel will switch off the
headlight.
To reset this function, you must perform at least one Key-On/ Key-Off.
If the battery power is interrupted at any time while this function is active, when power is restored, the instrument panel
will de-activate the function (the instrument panel does not remain active for 60 seconds).
Service Menu
The instrument panel has a service menu, which must be used only by the dealer if necessary.
To enter the service menu, press and hold button (1) in position A “s” while turning the ignition switch from “Off” to “On”.
Note
Within this “MENU” all other functions are excluded and motorcycle starting is disabled.
The very first Function to be displayed is the “Immobilizer Reprogramming” procedure (00000 PRO).
Now, push button A “s” to display the “Setting Special” Function (UNIT SET).
After having made the required changes, turn the key from “ON” to “OFF” to save the new settings in memory.
The new parameter settings will be applied at the next Key-On.
Instruments
Immobilizer Reprogramming (service menu 1)

This function is for reprogramming the immobilizer system in the event of loss or damage to one or both of the keys.
To display this function, go into the service menu and select the page “0000 COD”.
Note
Within this function all other functions are excluded and motorcycle starting is disabled.
On entering this page, the initial code is always displayed as “00000”. If you hold pressed switch (1) in position B “t“ for 3
seconds, you will access the procedure for entering the electronic code given on the CODE CARD.
Entering the code:
the first digit on the left flashes;
each time you press the switch in position B “t”, the number increases cyclically in steps of one digit every second;
if you press the switch in position A “s”, you can set the second digit, which will start flashing. Each time you press the
if you press the switch in position A “s”, you can set the third digit, which will start flashing. Each time you press the
if you press the switch in position A “s”, you can set the fourth digit, which will start flashing. Each time you press the
press in position A “s” to confirm the code.
At this point, if the code was entered incorrectly, the display will show the initial code “00000”. There is no limit to the
number of times the code may be entered incorrectly.
if you press the switch in position A “s”, you can set the fifth digit, which will start flashing. Each time you press the
If the code has been entered correctly, the message “COD” and the code entered will flash simultaneously until Key-Off.
From this moment on, the immobilizer system is waiting to be programmed with the new key (or keys); at the next Key-
On, reprogram the keys using the procedure described in “Programming the immobilizer”.
Note
During this stage, the immobilizer system will immobilise the engine until the keys have been reprogrammed.
Instruments
Loss of the Code Card

Without knowing the electronic code on the CODE CARD, it is impossible to:
reprogram the immobilizer system in the event of loss of one or both of the keys;
temporarily override the immobilizer in the event of a fault.
To restore the entire system to full operation, it is necessary to renew the KEY SET (2 black keys + new CODE CARD) and
the instrument panel, and therefore programme the immobilizer again.
Loss of one key

After purchasing a new key, perform the Reprogramming procedure (by entering the code shown on the CODE CARD) with
the new key and the remaining key.
Loss of both keys

After purchasing two new keys, perform the Reprogramming procedure (by entering the code shown on the CODE CARD)
with the new keys.
Renewal of the instrument panel

After purchasing the new instrument panel, perform the normal “Programming” procedure for the immobilizer system.
Renewing the instrument panel after renewing one or both of the keys
In this case, if you want the immobilizer to be fully functional, before programming the immobilizer, first renew the KEY
SET as well (2 black keys + new CODE CARD).
If the new instrument panel is programmed with the keys previously renewed, it will be possible to start the motorcycle
but the electronic code shown on the CODE CARD will no longer enable you to:
reprogram the immobilizer system in the event of loss of one or both of the keys;
temporarily override the immobilizer in the event of a fault.
Special settings - vehicle model and units of measurement (service menu 2)

This function allows you to select the units of measurement displayed on the instrument panel.
The ECU automatically communicates to the instrument panel the motorcycle model and the units of measurement to
be used on the display: to change these parameters, go into the “Service Menu ” and select the “UNIT SET” function.
Note
Within this function all other functions are excluded and motorcycle starting is disabled.
Now press button (1) in position B “t” for 3 seconds.

Every time you press button (1) in position B “t”, the Dashboard toggles through the following flashing values:
Units of measurement
Instruments
COUNTRY speed Coolant temperature Counters

EU km/h °C km
EN Mph °C miles
USA Mph °F miles
CND km/h °C km
FRA km/h °C km
JAP km/h °C km
ECU ld. The instrument configures the unit of
measurement parameters in accordance with
information relayed from the ECU
Press button (1) in position B “t” for 3 seconds to store the displayed settings, the message “MEM” confirms storage. The
new parameter setting will applied at the next Key-On.
immobilizer and transponder
8 -immobilizer and transponder

The immobilizer allows the vehicle to be started only if the rider uses the special ignition key which sends the
identification code to a decoder housed in the instrument panel. The transmission-receiving system is composed of a
TRANSPONDER housed in the ignition key heads and an antenna in the vicinity of the ignition switch.
Keys with transponder

The two keys contain the secret code used for programming the immobilizer and allowing the engine to be started.
The transponder is fitted inside the key grip and consists of a power supply circuit, a ROM (Read-Only Memory) and a
transmission circuit. The transponder is supplied with power by the magnetic field generated by the antenna which is
enabled as soon as the instrument panel is switched on. Since the transponder is very compact and needs no external
battery power supply, it is moulded permanently into the key grip.
Warning
The circuits in the key grips are not shockproof and may therefore be damaged by violent impact.
Immobilizer antenna
The antenna consists of a plastic-coated copper coil connected to a cable that is terminated with a connector.
The antenna (A) is fitted onto the ignition lock cover (B), which is specifically modified for the purpose to create a seat in
which the antenna is inserted and restrained.
Immobilizer operating principle

At key-on (switching on the instrument panel by turning the key) the decoder (incorporated in the instrument panel)
activates the antenna, which emits an electromagnetic field that serves to power the transponder in the key grip. The
transponder responds by transmitting the code that is stored on its internal ROM memory, and which is picked up by the
antenna and relayed to the decoder. Here the transponder code is compared to a second code. If the outcome of the
comparison is positive, engine starting is enabled.
Warning light signals and immobilizer indications

Whenever the ignition key is turned from ON to OFF, the immobilizer system activates the engine start protection system.
When the engine is started and the key is turned from OFF to ON, the system generates the following signals:
- if the code is recognised, the protection system releases the engine lock. When you press the START button (C), the
engine starts;
- if the code is not recognised, the EOBD diagnostics warning light (8) comes on. Press button (1) in position A “s” to view
the page showing “Error” message and a code indicating the type of IMMO fault. In this case, refer to the procedures
described in the previous chapter among instrument panel functions.
Removal of the immobilizer

Set the ignition switch to OFF.
Disconnect the antenna wiring connector (A) from the main wiring loom.
Unscrew the two nuts (1) and remove the cover (2).
Undo the screw (3) fastening ignition switch cover (4) and remove the cover (4).
Slide out the immobilizer antenna (5) from ignition switch.
Refitting the immobilizer

Refitting is the reverse of removal; in particular, tighten the screw (3) and nuts (1) to a torque of 7 Nm ±10%) (Sect. 3 -
3, Frame torque settings).
Description of the system
10 Description
- of the system
General information on the fuel injection-ignition system
Integrated electronically-controlled ignition and injection controlled by just one control unit ensure optimal Otto cycle
engine performance and output, thus reducing consumption and harmful substances into the exhaust gas. This system
ensures an accurately metered air-fuel ratio and optimal management of ignition advance.
This system consists of three different circuits:

Fuel circuit
Intake air circuit
Electric circuit (featuring control unit, sensors and actuators).
Importance of the air-fuel ratio and the ignition advance

Correct management of the air-fuel ratio and of the ignition advance are fundamental for optimal engine operation.
The air-fuel ratio is given by the ratio, in weight, of air and fuel taken in by the engine: the ideal or stoichiometric ratio is
that which establishes complete combustion. Excessive air or insufficient air give rise to, respectively, a lean (or weak)
mixture or a rich mixture, which affect power and consumption, as well as emissions of exhaust gases.
Electronic control of ignition timing advance makes it possible to optimise the performance of the engine, maximum power
output, fuel consumption and the concentration of exhaust pollutants.
Electronic ignition timing control combined with fuel supply control allows for optimal engine operation in all conditions of
use (low temperature start, warm-up stage, transitory acceleration/deceleration stages, engine under partial load, full
load, idle).
Siemens M3C injection-ignition system

The Siemens M3C injection-ignition system is the Alfa/N type, in which the engine speed and throttle position are used as
main parameters for measuring the quantity of intake air. If the quantity of air is known, the quantity of fuel can be dosed
accordingly to obtain the required ratio. Other sensors in the system (engine sensor, intake air pressure, air temperature,
engine temperature and lambda sensor for CO control) allow corrections to the basic management strategy to suit specific
operating conditions. The engine speed and the throttle angle also make it possible to calculate the optimal advance for all
types of operating conditions. The quantity of air taken in by each cylinder during each cycle depends on the density of
the air in the intake manifold, the cylinder capacity and the volumetric efficiency.
Volumetric efficiency is experimentally taken onto the engine in the whole operating range (rotation speed and engine
load conditions). Taken values are then used for the generation of a map which is stored into the Flash Eprom of the
Siemens M3C ECU, for injection control. The Flash Eprom can be programmed via CAN line. Fuel injection control is of
the phased sequential type, i.e. the injectors are not operated in parallel. Fuel delivery to each cylinder can be started
from the expansion stage up to the intake stage, already in progress. Fuel cut-off timing (the time when the injectors are
closed), is saved in a special map, which is stored in the ECU Flash Eprom. Ignition is of the static inductive discharge
type, featuring dwell time control so as to ensure coil charging at steady power. The power modules for the coil power
supply are incorporated in the ECU hardware, while ignition advance curves are always stored in the Flash Eprom. Both
coils and power modules are controlled by the ECU, which processes ignition advance.
Note
To check the injection-ignition system components and wiring use the “DDS” tester, as explained under “Guided
diagnosis” (Sect. 6 - 13).
Sensor positioning diagram

1 Injection control unit
2 Injection relay
3 Fuel pump
4 Lambda sensor (horizontal cylinder)
5 Engine temperature sensor
7 Coil (horizontal cylinder)
8 Pressure sensor
9 Engine rpm sensor
10 Coil (vertical cylinder)
11 Spark plug
13 Injectors
14 Stepper motor
15 Lambda sensor (vertical cylinder)
Fuel circuit
A pump located on a flange at the bottom of fuel tank pumps fuel into delivery tube (OUT) and toward injectors. The
flange also fits the pressure regulator controlling fuel feed and keeping it constant at a value higher than engine-
generated vacuum. Fuel that is not injected in the intake hoses returns to the flange and then to the tank by way of a
return hose (IN).
Intake air circuit

The air circuit consists of two intake ducts (A), a throttle body (B) and an intake air box (C) (airbox) above the throttle
body.
This motorcycle is also equipped with a stepper motor (14) that defines the magnitude of the supply of supplementary
air, down-line from the throttles, during the engine starting phase (see “Operating phases” in this section).
The engine control system (ignition and injection) relies on several sensors which correct mixture strength according to air
pressure and temperature and engine load. An air temperature sensor (6) located on the intake manifold of the vertical
cylinder and an air pressure sensor (5) located between the “V” of the engine block, connected to the air intakes,
measures the atmospheric pressure and transmits this information to the ECU where it used to make essential
adjustments to the quantity of fuel injected when the motorcycle is ridden at varying altitudes (e.g. a route that starts at
sea level and ends at a high altitude); The ECU also uses this information to adjust the air/fuel ratio according to air
density. (Assuming that the volume of air remains constant, an increase in temperature will lead to a decrease in the air
density and consequently a reduced oxygen content, whereas a fall in temperature will cause an increase in air density
and consequently the oxygen content will rise.
When the temperature is higher, the mixture should be leaner, while if it is lower the mixture should be richer to obtain
the best air-fuel ratio).
The exhaust pipes of horizontal and vertical cylinder are equipped with two lambda sensors (4), (15), which transmit
information to the air-fuel mixture control system.
There is a throttle position sensor (12) fitted on the shaft of the throttle of the rear cylinder. This device sends the ECU a
signal that is an indirect indication of the quantity of air drawn in by the engine (indirect measurement of engine load).
Operating phases
Normal operation
When the engine is fully warm, the control unit calculates injection time and ignition advance, by comparing the stored
map values, in accordance with the RPM and throttle position. The calculated quantity of fuel is fed through injectors in
one single sequential delivery to the two cylinders, during the useful cycle.
Starting
When the ignition switch is turned to ON, the control unit feeds the fuel pump for a few moments to put fuel feed
hydraulic circuit under pressure. It receives and processes the throttle position and engine temperature signals. When the
engine is started, the unit receives the engine RPM and timing signals that allow it to proceed with injection and ignition.
To facilitate start-up, the basic mixture is made richer in accordance with the engine temperature. During starting, the
ignition advance is fixed (0°) until the engine starts. When the engine starts, the ECU controls the ignition advance in
accordance with the values stored in the map and makes any necessary corrections according to the air and engine
temperatures.
Acceleration/deceleration
During acceleration, the ECU makes the mixture richer for improved engine performance. Acceleration is detected by
monitoring the speed at which the rider turns the twistgrip to open the throttle. During a rapid deceleration, determined
by the rider quickly turning the twistgrip to close the throttle, the ECU makes the mixture leaner to reduce emissions and
fuel consumption.
Fuel injection - ignition system
11 Fuel
- injection - ignition system
The electrical components of the fuel injection-ignition system are listed below: indicated reference number refers to the
diagram in Sect. 6 - 1, Key to wiring diagram:
Key to fuel injection–ignition system diagram

3) Horizontal cylinder spark plug
4) Vertical cylinder spark plug
6) Starter contactor
7) Battery
8) Main fuse
15) Fuel tank
18) Self-diagnosis/DDA
19) Horizontal cylinder coil
20) Vertical cylinder coil.
23) Horizontal cylinder injector
24) Vertical cylinder injector
25) Throttle position sensor
26) Timing/rpm sensor
29) Side stand
32) Oil pressure switch
34) ECU
35) Fuses
40) Air temperature sensor
47) Stepper motor
System components
12 System
- components
Electronic Control Unit (ECU)
The engine ECU (1) is an electronic digital microprocessor-based unit.
It controls both the injectors and the coils, thus controlling fuel injection and ignition in accordance with the engine
operating conditions detected by the following sensors:
- Absolute pressure sensor (measures barometric pressure and engine load in Speed Density mode)
- Air temperature sensor (measures intake air temperature)
- Engine temperature sensor (measures the engine temperature)
- Timing/rpm sensor for engine rotation speed and the position of each cylinder relative to TDC
- Throttle position sensor (measures the throttle opening angle)
The ECU also monitors battery voltage so that it can adjust injector opening time and ignition coil charging time
accordingly.
The ECU determines the following values:
- Amount of fuel delivered to each cylinder with a sequential non-parallel control
- Injector closing time and therefore injection timing relative to the end of the induction stroke for each cylinder
- Ignition advance.
Important
The maps, which include ignition advance values, injection times, crankshaft angle for injector closing and all correction
curves as a function of temperature and atmospheric pressure values, are stored in the Flash Eprom of the ECU.
The above values are preset by the Manufacturer after testing the motorcycle under different riding conditions.
These settings cannot be changed.
Removal of the electronic control unit

To remove the ECU (1) it is necessary to remove the fuel tank (Sect. 8 - 2, Removal of the fuel tank), disconnect ECU
connector (2) and undo the retaining screws (3).
Refitting the electronic control unit

Fix the ECU (1) to the airbox with the fours screws (3) and reconnect the wiring connector (2).
System components
Tighten the screws (3) to a torque of 5 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings).
The connector (2) is 48 PIN connector.
Make sure that the clip (A) for the connector (2) is in its “open” position (as shown in the diagram).
Rotate the clip (A) to secure the connector (clip in “locked” position).
Fuel injectors
The injectors (1) deliver the correct quantity of fuel required for optimal engine operation.
System components
The ECU controls injector opening by feeding current to the coil of an electromagnet which creates a magnetic field to
attract the armature, thereby generating fuel spray. If we take the physical characteristics of the fuel to be constant
(viscosity, density), as well as the injector delivery and pressure head (controlled by the fuel pressure regulator), the
amount of fuel injected depends on the duration for which the injector is open. This time is determined by the ECU in
accordance with the engine operating conditions. In this way correct fuel delivery in ensured.
To remove and refit the injectors, refer to Sect. 8 - 6, Removal of the fuel injectors.
Note
To check correct operation of the injector, use the DDS diagnosis instrument and follow the instructions given in
the paragraph “Guided diagnosis“ (Sect. 6 - 13).
The fuel output must be even and the jet should be fully atomised, without droplets.
Do not leave the engine stopped for a long time with the fuel circuit full. The fuel could clog the injectors and render them
inoperable. Periodically, after lengthy periods without running the engine, we recommend adding TUNAP 231 to the
fuel in the tank to help clean critical sections of the fuel circuit.
Stepper motor
The throttle body incorporates an automatic choke function performed by a stepper motor (1).
The stepper motor shaft is fitted with a valve which opens a communicating passage between two ports; one of these
ports (2) is connected to the intake manifold of the vertical cylinder while the other (4) is connected to the intake
manifold of the horizontal cylinder. A third port (3) is connected to the airbox.
System components
The stepper motor simultaneously controls two by-pass ports having an air flow capacity of around 6 kg/h.
The by-pass ports with adjuster screws are present because it is necessary to balance the air flow to the two cylinders.
In order to compensate for the quantity of supplementary air supplied by the stepper motor and consequently deliver the
correct amount of fuel, the ECU converts the stepper motor steps into angular degrees of the throttle: this system means
that opening the stepper motor is equivalent to opening the throttle.
Note
The influence of the stepper motor air flow is present to approximately 30° throttle angle; no correction is required for
greater angles.
The opening of the stepper motor opening is controlled by 2 strategies:

Strategy 1) controlled solely by engine temperature (stepper motor opening/closing is determined by engine temperature
alone).
Strategy 2) controlled by engine temperature and status. This strategy is applied only in the engine starting phase; the
system determines a quantity of steps, to be added to those of the previous strategy, which are immediately decreased
to zero, in accordance with the number of engine cycles, once the system has detected that the engine has started.
Lambda sensor
The Lambda sensor, positioned on the exhaust pipe, transmits information to the ECU on the amount of oxygen present in
the exhaust fumes. With this information the ECU can maintain optimal control over the fuel-air mixture.
The outer surface of the sensor element in zirconium dioxide is in direct contact with the exhaust gas, while the inner
surface is in contact with the atmosphere. Both surfaces are coated with a thin layer of platinum. Oxygen in ionic form
travels through the ceramic layer and charges the platinum layer electrostatically so that the platinum acts as an
electrode: the electrical signal generated is carried on the sensor output cable.
The zirconium dioxide element becomes permeable to oxygen ions at a temperature of around 300 °C.
When the oxygen concentration is different on the two sensor surfaces, a voltage is generated thanks to the special
physical properties of the zirconium dioxide. With a lean mixture the signal voltage is low, while with a rich mixture it is
high.
System components
The typical change in signal intensity occurs when the air-fuel ratio is 14.7 to 1 (14.7 parts of air to 1 part of petrol),
which is referred to as “Lambda 1”. This ratio is considered to be an indication of complete combustion, hence the name
“Lambda Sensor”: thus
lambda = 1 means mixture in stoichiometric (ideal) ratio
lambda >1 means a lean mixture
lambda <1 means a rich mixture.
The air-fuel ratio control system is managed by the lambda sensor, which starts to operate at over 300 °C: the ceramic
material starts conducting oxygen ions at around 300 °C. If the proportion of oxygen starts to differ between the two ends
of the probe, this generates an electrical voltage between the two electrodes due to the particular nature of the material.
This makes it possible to measure the difference in oxygen content between the exhaust gas and the ambient air.
Combusted gas still contains a residual amount of oxygen when the air-fuel mixture delivered to the combustion chamber
is incorrect. This makes it possible to adjust the injection control unit to ensure the engine always runs with the optimal
air-fuel ratio.
To remove the lambda sensors (1) it is necessary to unscrew them from the horizontal and vertical cylinder exhaust pipe.
When reassembling, tighten the sensors to a torque of 45 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Air pressure sensor

This sensor is powered by the ECU and it supplies information concerning the absolute air pressure in an area of the
motorcycle that is not subject to turbulence. The electronic signals thus obtained are transmitted to the ECU, where they
are used to make corrections in accordance with the detected pressure.
Note
To test the operation of the injector, use the DDS diagnosis instrument and follow the instructions given in the paragraph
“Guided diagnosis” (Sect. 6 - 13).
Removing the air pressure sensor

To remove the air pressure sensor (1), remove the following parts.

Remove the tank covers 5 - 2, Removal of the fuel tank
fairings
Remove the fuel tank 8 - 2, Removal of the fuel tank
Remove the ABS control unit 7 - 6, Removing of the ABS control
unit
Remove the battery 6 - 2, Battery support
Remove the ECU connector 6 - 12, Removal of the electronic
control unit
Connect the starter motor/solenoid 6 - 3, Removal of the starter motor
cable
Remove the airbox 8 - 7, Removal of the airbox
Disconnect the main wiring connector (3) from the sensor and detach it from the throttle body.
Remove the tubes (2) from the intake manifolds.
System components
Refitting the air pressure sensor

On completion of the refitting operation, reconnect the wiring connector (3) to the sensor.

Refit the airbox 8 - 7, Refitting the airbox
Refit the battery 6 - 2, Refitting the battery
Connect the starter motor/solenoid 6 - 3, Refitting the starter motor
cable
Connect the ECU connector 6 - 12, Refitting the electronic
control unit
Refit the fuel tank 8 - 2, Refitting the fuel tank
Refit the ABS control unit 7 - 6, Refitting the ABS control unit
Refit the tank covers 5 - 2, Refitting the fuel tank
fairings
System components
Temperature sensor
This sensor is powered by the ECU and provides information regarding the temperature of the aspirated air.
The electronic signals thus obtained are transmitted to the ECU, where they are used to make corrections in accordance
with the temperature reading.
Note
To test the operation of the injector, use the DDS diagnosis instrument and follow the instructions given in the paragraph
“Guided diagnosis” (Sect. 6 - 13).
Removing the air temperature sensor

To disassemble the air temperature pressure sensor (1).

fairings
unit
Remove the battery 6 - 2, Battery support
control unit
cable
Disconnect the main wiring connector (1) from the sensor, unscrew and remove the two sensor retaining screws (2) and
remove the sensor from the vertical cylinder intake manifold (3).
System components
Refitting the air temperature sensor

On completion of the refitting operation, reconnect the wiring connector to the sensor (1).

cable
control unit
fairings
Spark plug
Clean the area around the spark plug bores with a compressed air jet before removing the spark plugs themselves.
Remove the spark plug caps (1) from the spark plugs in both cylinder heads and remove the two spark plugs, making
sure that no dirt or other objects enter the combustion chamber.
Important
Check the gap between the central and side electrodes.
If the gap is not as specified or if the spark plug is soiled with heavy sooty deposits, renew it.
Refit the spark plug in the cylinder head, first tightening it fully by hand.
Tighten to a torque of 20 Nm (Min. 18 Nm - Max. 22 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Refit the spark plug caps (1).
System components
Important
Do not use spark plugs with inadequate thermal rating or incorrect thread length. The spark plug must be securely
installed. If a spark plug is loose, it can overheat and damage the engine.
Spark plug type:

Make: CHAMPION
Type: RA6HC
Alternative:
Make: NGK
Type: DCPR8E
Coil
An inductive discharge ignition system is used. Coil operation is governed by the M3C electronic control unit, which
calculates the ignition advance. The power module (integrated in the electronic control unit) also guarantees constant
energy coil charge, by adjusting the dwell time.
The horizontal head coil (1) is mounted under the airbox in order to remove it you shall first remove the left-hand side
conveyor cover (Sect. 6 - 3, Starter contactor).
System components
The vertical head coil (2) is on the battery mount, so that to remove it, you shall:
Remove the seat (Sect. 5 - 3, Removal of the seat).
To disassemble the coil (1) disconnect the connector (A) and the HT lead (3).
Remove the screws (4), paying attention to the spacers.
Remove the coil (1) from the airbox.
To disassemble the coil (2), disconnect the connector (B) and the HT lead (6), remove the screws (4).
Remove the coil (2).
Refitting is the reverse of removal; ensure to tighten the screws (4) to a torque of 5 Nm ±10 (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque
settings).
System components
Refit the left-hand side conveyor (Sect. 6 - 3, Starter contactor).

Refit the fuel tank (Sect. 8 - 2, Refitting the fuel tank).
Refit the tank covers (Sect. 5 - 2, Refitting the fuel tank fairings).
Refit the seat (Sect. 5 - 3, Refitting the seat).
For the correct layout of the coil leads, please refer to the following tables.
Note
To check the coils for faults, use the DDS diagnosis instrument and follow the instructions given in the paragraph “Guided
diagnosis“ (Sect. 6 - 13).
Positioning of the HT leads
System components
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)

The TPS is powered by the ECU to which it sends a signal indicating the throttle position. This information is an indirect
measure of the engine load and is used by the ECU as one of the main parameters for defining the fuel flow rate and
spark advance.
System components
Note
To check this component, use the DDS diagnosis instrument, following the instructions given in the paragraph “Guided
diagnosis“ (Sect. 6 - 13).
For throttle position sensor replacement, please refer to Sect. 8 - 2, Removal of the throttle body.
Timing/rpm sensor
This sensor is of the inductive type. it faces the timing gear and is capable of “reading”the 44 teeth and the 2 gaps
(each equivalent to 2 teeth) positioned 180° apart.
The signal coming from the pickup on the camshaft gear is used by the ECU to determine the engine speed and as a
timing reference point.
Note
To check the elements for faults, use the DDS diagnosis instrument and follow the instructions given in the paragraph
“Guided diagnosis“ (Sect. 6 - 13).
For instructions on how to renew the sensor and check the air gap, see the chapter “Flywheel - alternator” (Sect. 9 - 8).
Injection and main relay

The relay (1) is positioned alongside the ECU and fixed to the airbox.
To remove the relay, remove the fuel tank (Sect. 8 - 2, Removal of the fuel tank).
Disconnect the relay from the electric system and apply 12 V (battery voltage) between contacts (86) and (85) (small
contacts): you should hear a click that confirms that the internal electromagnet has switched.
Connect a multimeter to contacts (30) and (87) (big contacts) to check for electrical continuity (see Sect. 6 - 13, Using a
multimeter to check the electrical systems, concerning operation of the multimeter). The resistance reading should be
near zero and, if present, the continuity sound signal should be emitted. If this does not occur, the part must be renewed.
System components
Diagnostic instruments
13 Diagnostic
- instruments
For information on the “DDS” tester, refer to Sect. 6 - 13, DDS diagnosis instrument.
Using a multimeter to check the electrical systems
Introduction
This instrument allows you to measure resistance, voltages, and current values. Multimeters can be divided into two basic
types: those with an analogue display and those with a digital display. Units of the first type are equipped with a dial and
needle. The dial is marked with the scales to be used for measurement of the various parameters. Digital units are
equipped with a dial that displays numbers corresponding to the values of the measured parameters. The type of
measurement to be carried out (voltage, current or resistance) is set by means of a selector or by means of several
different sockets in which to insert the two test probe connector terminals. In certain cases it is essential to set the full
scale value before proceeding. For example, in order to measure a 12 V signal, you need to set a full scale that is close to
this value (e.g. 15 V or 20 V). It would be illogical to set a full scale value of 10 V; the same applies when setting current
(Amperes) or resistance (Ohms). Sometimes the instrument can set the required full scale value automatically. Never
exceed the maximum value allowed by the tester when measuring voltage or current signals.
Note
The DDS diagnosis instrument (Sect. 6 - 13, DDS diagnosis instrument) can fulfil the function of digital multimeter.
Voltage measurement
Voltage measurements must be carried out by connecting the terminals of the tester in parallel to the load (e.g. to the
wires feeding a light bulb or a relay, the two battery terminals, or the two wires supplying power to a control unit).
Voltages can be constant over time (DC voltage) or variable over time (AC voltage). In the first case, it is important to
consider the negative and positive polarity of the application. It is therefore necessary to select on the multimeter the
type of voltage you intend to measure. (DC voltage is shown by the symbol = while AC voltage is denoted by ~).
Current measurement
Current measurements must be made by connecting the multimeter terminals in series with the load (e.g. disconnect one
of the wires feeding power to a light bulb and connect one terminal of the multimeter to the free end of wire and the
other terminal to the light bulb. When the lights switch is set to ON, the bulb will illuminate normally and the tester will
show the absorbed current, i.e. the amount of current passing through the wire. Warning: connections in series must be
made and removed only when the power is switched off. Never attempt to make or break a series connection when a
device is powered. Always make sure that the connection in series of the tester terminals on the electrical device is made
is a safe manner in such a way that it cannot be broken accidentally.
Measurement of resistance values and electrical continuity

Resistance measurements must be taken only when the electrical device or section of the circuit is not powered and
isolated from the main electric system (i.e. not connected to the main electric system). These measurements can be
utilised to check the resistance value across several sensors. For example, after disconnecting the electrical wiring to the
rpm/ignition-injection system timing sensor (on the camshaft drive gear) the relative internal resistance can be checked
by connecting a multimeter to its terminals. This makes it possible to check the electrical continuity of the winding inside
the sensor (a reading of infinite resistance indicates that the winding is interrupted). Resistance measurement can also be
used to check the continuity of sections of the electrical circuit or relay type switches. For example, to check the condition
of a section of the electrical circuit between two connections, disconnect the connections and connect the terminals of the
multimeter to the ends of the electrical cable in question to check that the specified resistance value is present. If this
value is close to zero (i.e. lower than approximately 0.3 ohm) this means that the cable is not interrupted. Some
instruments feature an audible signal that is emitted when the resistance approaches a value of zero. The same procedure
must be adopted to check whether, for example, two contacts of a switch (relay or manual type) are making the contact
correctly when closed. In this case the terminals of the multimeter must be connected to the switch terminals, checking
that the resistance value is close to zero (or listening for the audible signal) when the switch is closed. To check that the
multimeter is functioning correctly in “electrical continuity test” mode, short out the two test probes. The resistance value
indicated must be almost nil and the audible signal must be activated.
Protections and precautions

The multimeter is equipped with protective fuses and batteries. These components must always be in perfect condition to
ensure that the instrument is functioning correctly. When making electrical measurements always use the maximum
caution to avoid short circuits, which can otherwise cause irreparable damage to the electric system and constitute a
personal injury hazard. All maintenance work must be performed exclusively when the system is not live (disconnect the
battery in advance). NEVER connect the multimeter in parallel to make current measurements, and NEVER connect it in
series to carry out voltage measurements.
Description of the Ducati Diagnostic System tester

The “DDS” diagnostic system lets you diagnose any faults in the injection-ignition system via a serial port. The system is
also equipped with functions to test various devices on the motorcycle. The DDS diagnosis instrument can be used to
measure current and voltage on any electrical device, to perform tests on individual components and to measure pressure
and temperature values.
The DDS diagnosis instrument (1) tool code 97900.0215 comprises a palmtop display unit (A), a BBAD self-diagnosis
module (B) and a display memory card (C).
The touch-screen display unit (A) serves for both data display and input, using the stylus housed on the side of the unit.
The self-diagnosis module (B) enables communication between the DDS diagnosis instrument (1) and the motorcycle’s
on-board electronic control unit (ECU).
The user interface software resides in the display memory card (C) which is housed in the Palmtop display unit (A).
The display unit is equipped with two connection panels: one at the top of the instrument and one at the bottom.
The top connection panel has 6 connection sockets with the following functions:
- one VGA output (E);
- one port for connection of the measurement module (F);
- one RS232 serial port for connection of peripheral devices (COM1) (G);
- a second RS232 serial port for connection of peripheral devices (COM2) (H);
- two generic USB ports (USB1 and USB2) (L).
The bottom connection panel has 3 connection sockets with the following functions:
- one USB port (M);
- one power connection socket (N);
- one diagnostics connection socket (P).
You can connect a printer to the DDS diagnosis instrument (1) to print test reports: connect the printer to the serial port
(COM1) (G) located on the top connection panel of the tester (1).
Technical data
Power supply:
- from the mains – 220 V;
- from the motorcycle battery - 12 V.
Components supplied with the DDS diagnosis instrument

The DDS diagnosis instrument (1) is supplied in a kit together with the following items:
- Rechargeable DDS battery
- Battery charger
- Mains power adapter
- USB memory card reader
- Power and diagnostic cable complete with fuse

- CD containing DDS installation software for PC
- USB cable
- Belt tension sensor
Tester power supply

The DDS diagnosis instrument (1) tool part no. 97900.0215 may be powered in any of the following ways:
- from the mains power supply: by connecting the mains adapter (2) to the power connection socket (N) part no.
97900.0224;
- from the motorcycle: connecting the corresponding cables (see paragraph “Connection to the motorcycle”);
- from the tester's internal battery: the battery (Q) is housed in the top part of the tester. To operate the tester (1) using
the internal battery and to recharge the battery, refer to the “User Manual” supplied with the DDS diagnosis instrument.
To switch on the display, press the button (T).
Connection to the motorcycle
The tester requires a power supply voltage within 9 and 16 Volts D.C.
Make sure voltage never drops below this limit during operation: this situation could occur during engine starting and
idling on motorcycles in which the battery is not in perfect working order. If the tester detects a power supply voltage
lower than 9 Volts, the current procedures will be reset; when the voltage returns to the acceptable tolerance limits the
procedure must start again from the beginning.
The DDS diagnosis instrument (1) may be powered from the motorcycle in any one of the following ways:
- by connecting to the instrument power connection socket (N) the battery power adapter (3) part no. 97900.0230 and
the latter to the motorcycle battery;
- by connecting to the instrument's diagnosis connector (P) the power and diagnostic cable (4) part no. 97900.0227S;
then connect the motorcycle DDA socket (S) to the connection socket of the power and diagnostic cable.
Note
For connection of the various devices required for self-diagnostic procedures, consult the instruction handbook supplied
with the tester.
DDS diagnosis instrument

The main functions of the DDS diagnosis instrument can be summarised as follows:
- Retrieval of errors (faults) of the ignition-injection system stored in the engine control unit memory and their subsequent
deletion, if required.
- Reading of engine parameters (rpm, coolant and air temperature, atmospheric pressure, throttle opening, battery
voltage, injection times and ignition advance, etc.).
- Active diagnostics. Activation of ignition-injection system transducers to test functionality and control signals (fuel pump,
ignition coils, rev counter, injectors, etc.). With this function it is also possible to enter the code to override the
immobilizer.
- Road test. Allows the technician to store engine parameters recorded within a previously specified engine speed range
interval. The resulting parameters can then be analysed and displayed once they have been acquired.
- With specific sensors connected, the DDS diagnosis instrument can read electrical voltages, current, temperature, timing
belt tension, and pressure values (lubrication and fuel supply circuits for example).
Checking and adjusting timing belt tension
Note
The on-screen icons used during this procedure are explained in a table at the end of this section.
Note
This operation, which is performed using the DDS diagnosis instrument, has the advantage that it can be carried out on
both timing belts with the engine still installed on the frame. Connect an optical reader (5) to the DDS part no.
88765.1371. The optical reader has a green LED that serves to determine that the reader is correctly positioned in front
of the belt to be tested. It is also equipped with an infrared transmitter (A) and receiver (B) designed to detect
oscillations of the belt when caused to vibrate with the flick of a finger.
Unscrew the lambda sensor (6), undo the clamp (7), loosen nuts (8) and remove the exhaust pipe (9).
Remove the spark plug caps (10).
Unscrew the screws (11) and remove the side covers (12).
Remove the spark plugs.
Position the crankshaft so that the piston of the horizontal cylinder is at TDC of its power stroke, using the whole tool.
This is achieved by aligning the timing mark (C) of the timing driveshaft pulley (13) with the reference notch (D) on the
clutch cover (T).
Measure the horizontal timing belt on the section (14) as described in the paragraph “Measuring timing belt tension”.
Turn the crankshaft through 270° in the direction of rotation of the engine (so that the vertical cylinder is at TDC of the
power stroke) and repeat the procedure used for the horizontal cylinder, measuring the tension on section (15) of the
vertical cylinder timing belt.
Remove the belt tension sensor and disconnect the DDS diagnosis instrument from the motorcycle.
Measuring timing belt tension

Switch on the DDS diagnosis instrument (16) tool part no. 97900.0215 as indicated in the paragraph “Tester power
supply“.
Connect the power and diagnostics cable (Measurement Module) (17) tool part no. 97900.0222 to the measurement
module connector (F) on the DDS diagnosis instrument (16).
Connect the belt tension sensor (1) tool part no.88765.1371 to the jack (V) of the power supply and diagnosis cable
(Measurement Module) (17) tool part no. 97900.0222.
Fix the mounting bracket of the belt tension sensor (1) using the timing belt cover screw (18).
Direct the central green LED of the sensor (1) at the midpoint of the belt section, placing the sensor (1) parallel to the belt
and at a distance of about 1÷1.5 cm from it.
On the DDS diagnosis instrument (16), select the “Measurement module” function by pressing the corresponding icon;
then press the “Belt Tension” icon followed by the “Start” icon to access the “Mechanical belt tension” screen.
The socket to which the cable (Measurement Module) (17) is to be connected is indicated on the screen with a capital
letter: A, B or C.
Flick the belt lightly with your finger and read the frequency value (Hz) on the DDS diagnosis instrument.
Note
Do not stress the belt several times repeatedly, since the necessary minimum time for the DDS diagnosis instrument to
take a reading is 1 second.
The tension values are those detailed in Sect. 3 - 1.1, Timing system/valves and must be checked when the engine is
cold: apply the installation values when fitting a new belt, and the reset values when belt tension reaches 70 Hz.
Warning
The timing belts can become slack during normal operation. When checking belt tension, if the reading is less than 70 Hz,
restore to the specified nominal values (Sect. 3 - 1.1, Timing system/valves).
If the tension value is incorrect, tighten or slacken the belt by loosening the screws (19) and moving the tensioner
pulleys.
Manually raise the tensioner pulley (20) to increase belt tension or lower it to reduce belt tension.
Recheck the timing belt tension.

Repeat the above procedure until the correct belt tension is obtained.
Once the desired tension is obtained, tighten the screws (19) to a torque of 26 Nm (Mim. 23 Nm - Max 29 Nm) (Sect. 3 -
3, Engine torque settings).
Self-adaptation of the throttle position sensor (TPS)

The linear throttle position sensor is mounted on the throttle body and cannot be adjusted. It is therefore necessary to
teach the ECU the angle corresponding to the zero position of the position sensor itself, as follows.
Warning
This procedure must precede the first start-up of the vehicle after replacement of the throttle body, potentiometer or ECU.
Make sure the throttle valves are seated against the stop screws (throttle twistgrip released).
In this position you can teach the ECU the angle of the position sensor. To do this, use the DDS diagnosis instrument and
follow the procedure described below.
Switch on the DDS diagnosis instrument (1) tool part no. 97900.0215 as indicated in the paragraph “Tester power
supply“.
Connect the power and diagnostics cable (2) tool part no. 97900.0227S to the diagnostics connector (A) on the tester
and to the diagnostics socket (B) under the seat.
Enter the general functions menu by pressing the icon “Menu 1” (A).
Press the “Select vehicle” icon and, on the next screen, press the “Select motorcycle” icon; select the motorcycle model
and confirm, then select the version and confirm.
Press the icon “Select system” to display a list of the bike’s systems that can be analysed.
Select “Engine electronics” and press the “Confirm” icon (B). Next, press the “Self-diagnosis” icon to access the
corresponding function.
The DDS diagnosis instrument will interrogate the electronic control unit and display the parameters analysed with their
relative values.
Note
Make all connections with the motorcycle ignition key in the OFF position.
Press the “Settings” icon to display the special parameters.
Select the option “Self-adaptation of the throttle position sensor (TPS)” and then press the icon “Apply”.
On completion of the operation, the message “Was the operation completed successfully?” will appear; press
“Confirm” (B).
If any problems were encountered during the operation, the tester will display the relative error messages: each message
must be confirmed (by pressing the “Confirm” icon (B)), or rejected (by pressing the “Exit” icon (C)).
Once the reset has been performed, the ECU will be associated with the motorcycle’s throttle body. Replacement of the
throttle body, the throttle position sensor or the ECU must always be immediately followed by a new reset procedure.
Adjusting the idle speed
Note
Check that the motorcycle is fitted with a genuine Ducati ECU, intake system and exhaust system; if not, fit genuine
components.
Connect the inserts of the exhaust gas analyser code 88713.1010 to the outlets on the exhaust pipes, using the fittings
(1).
Connect the DDS and select MONSTER 796 / MONSTER 796 ABS.
Make sure that the throttle body pulley is seated against the stop screw when the throttle twistgrip is fully closed.
Make sure that the throttle cable free play is correctly adjusted.
CHECK:
- that throttle angle reading with the DDS, engine off, is 0°.
Start the engine and wait for the engine temperature to reach 100 °C. When engine temperature reaches 100° C, start
the following adjustment procedure.
Idle speed shall be between 1,250 and 1,350 rpm (1,300±50):

- If idle speed is lower or higher than the specified values, open or close by 1/4 of a turn the by-pass screws (2) and (3)
on both cylinders; once idle speed is fine, check that the CO rate is above 0.4% in both cylinders.
If idle speed setup procedure does not allow you to achieve the target value, proceed as follows:
- Overhaul the cylinder-head assemblies (clearance, timing, valve sealing, etc.).

- Repeat the entire idle speed adjustment procedure.
- check the vacuum pressures downstream of the butterfly valve (carry out this check only after completing the steps
described above).
Warning
If the engine is shut off before proceeding with adjustment of the CO level, wait three minutes after restarting for the
enrichment phase to finish and the lambda sensors to start operating.
If idling rpm is too high and by-pass screws adjustment was not effective, make sure that parts below throttle are sealing
correctly, in particular check for cracks or fissures in the intake manifolds make sure they are securely fastened to the
engine, check for cuts in the pressure sensor hoses, etc.
Warning
Idle speed adjustment takes priority over balancing the vacuum pressures downstream of the butterfly valve. Differences
in pressure between the horizontal and vertical cylinder are therefore acceptable, provided that the idle speed is adjusted
correctly.
- If you are unable to attain the desired idle speed setting, try reducing the vacuum differential downstream of the
butterfly valve as described in the following paragraph “Throttle body balancing”.
- Repeat the entire idle speed adjustment procedure.
Throttle body balancing

Connect the Measurement Module cable (4) tool part no. 97900.0222 to the DDS Measurement Module connector, as
described in the paragraph “Description of the Ducati Diagnostic System tester“.
Connect the cable (4) connectors (A) and (C) to the depression/pressure pipes (5) part no. 97900.0220 and to the latter
the fittings (6) part no. 97900.0221.
Turn on the DDS diagnosis instrument referring to the paragraph “Tester power supply”. Enter the “Measurement module”
function. Press the “Cylinder synchronisation” icon.
The socket to which the Measurement Module cable (4) is to be connected is indicated on the screen with a capital letter:
A, B or C.
Remove the screws (7) on the intake manifolds and install the unions (1) part no. 88713.1010 in place of the removed
screws.
Take both by-pass screws (2) and (3) one turn open, from fully closed position.
Warning
Press the “Reset“ icon (G), then connect the sensors (8) part no. 97900.0218 and (9) part no. 553.1.039.1A to the
connectors (A) and (C) of the cable (3) and to the depression/pressure pipes (6).
Press the “Start” icon to begin the cylinder pressure measurement procedure.
The on-screen indicator light (E) will turn red when the function is active.
Start the bike.
The values may be displayed in two different ways: in numerical form or in graphic form; to select the desired display
type, press the “Value display” icon (F).
The values can be reset by pressing the “Reset” icon (G).
To adjust the balance (consider a tolerance between 260 and 270), turn the by-pass screws (2) and (3) until the two lines
on the graph coincide, if in graphic mode, or until identical numerical values are displayed, if in numerical mode.
Balance is obtained when the two lines of the graph nearly coincide or when the two indicated values are within the
tolerance range.
Check the engine oil pressure
Note
To measure the pressure of the lubrication circuit, use the engine oil pressure test point (21) as described below.
Disconnect the wiring connector (A) and remove the pressure switch (1), taking care to recover the seal.
Introduce the fitting (3) part no. 814.1.114.1A into the connection on the hose (2) part no. 875.1.065.1A, placing two
copper sealing washers in between (4). Screw the fitting (3) of the hose (2) into the threaded hole (M10x1 mm) in the
RH cover fully home. Refit the pressure switch (1) on the fitting (3) along with its seal, and reconnect the wiring
connector (A).
Connect the pressure sensor (5) part no. 552.1.039.1A to the pipe (2) to transform the pressure signal into an electrical
signal.
Switch on the DDS diagnosis instrument (6) part no. 97900.0215 as indicated in the paragraph “Tester power supply“.
Connect the power and diagnostics cable (Measurement Module) (7) tool part no. 97900.0222 to the measurement
module connector (B) on the DDS diagnosis instrument (6).
Connect the pressure sensor (5) to the socket (A) of the cable (7).
On the DDS diagnosis instrument (6), select the “Measurement module” function by pressing the corresponding icon; then
press the “Pressure Test” icon (D) followed by the “Start” icon (E).
The letter A is displayed on the screen to indicate the connection socket of the Measurement Module cable (7).
Start the engine.

The values may be displayed in three different ways: in one numeric form and in two graphic forms; to select the desired
display type, press the “Value display” icon.
The measured value is indicated alongside the letter (A) or (C) identifying the cable used for the measurement: i.e. if you
used connector (A) of the cable (7), the value measured will displayed next to the letter (A) on the screen.
Oil pressure test values:
Warm engine
(Minimum oil temperature = 80 °C)
1,100÷1,300 rpm
greater than 0.8 bar.
3,500÷4,000 rpm
greater than 4 bar.
Important
The maximum pressure must never exceed 6.0 bar.
Excessively high pressure may indicate that the relief valve is stuck. Excessively low pressure, on the other hand, may be
caused by the relief valve being stuck in the open position, the relief valve spring being too weak, or a faulty oil pump.
Other causes are excessively worn seals and gaskets or a badly worn engine.
Remove the tool and refit the pressure switch (1) along with its seal. Secure it to a torque of 19 Nm (Min. 17 Nm - Max.
21 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings).
Reconnect the electric system connector (A) to the pressure switch.
Disconnect the DDS diagnosis instrument.
Cylinder compression test
Note
Engine performance is directly correlated to the pressure that can be measured in the combustion chambers of the two
cylinders. Pressure which is too high/low or an excessive difference between the two cylinders will cause a drop in engine
performance and can cause engine breakdowns.
Run the engine so that it warms up to the point that the fan is tripped at least once.
Remove the HT leads (1) from both spark plugs.
Remove the spark plug from the cylinder to be tested.
Position the HT lead carefully to avoid sparking.

Screw in the spark plug housing the cylinder compression cable (2) part no. 552.1.038.1A.
Connect the pressure sensors (3) part no. 552.1.039.1A to the cable (2).
Turn on the DDS diagnosis instrument (4) referring to the paragraph “Connection to the motorcycle”.
Connect the power and diagnostics cable (Measurement Module) (5) part no. 97900.0222 to the measurement module
connector (B) on the DDS diagnosis instrument (4).
Connect the pressure sensor part no. 552.1.039.1A to the jack (A) of the cable (5) part no. 97900.0222.
Note
Measure the compression on one cylinder at a time.
press the “Cylinder Compression” icon (D) followed by the “Start” icon (E).
The letter A is displayed on the screen to indicate the connector of the Measurement Module cable (3).
Open the throttles completely.
Turn over the engine with the starter motor until the pressure stops rising.
Check the pressure in each cylinder:
- standard value: 11 to 12 bar;
- minimum value: 10 bar;
- maximum permissible difference between cylinders: 2 bar.
An excessively high pressure value can be caused by:

- build up of deposits in the combustion chamber.
An excessively low pressure value can be caused by:
- gas escaping between the cylinder head and the barrel;
- worn valve seats;
- bent valve stems;
- incorrect valve clearances;
- worn cylinder or piston rings.
Refit the spark plugs and reconnect the HT leads (1).
Fuel pressure test
Note
In order to check the valve clearances, it is necessary to gain access to the four valve covers on the cylinder heads and
then remove the parts listed below.
Unscrew the side screw (1) securing tank to the frame and recover the washer (2).
Unscrew the rear screw (3) securing tank and recover the washer (4).
Raise the tank but leave it connected to the fuel system and wiring then position it on the side, duly supported, to be able
to work on the fuel system flange.
Remove the fuel feed hose (5).
Use the fuel pressure pipe (6) part no. 590.1.189.1A connecting one end (D) to the coupling of the delivery pipe to the
tank and the other end (E) to the fuel delivery pipe (5): in this way you create a pressure pick-up socket (F).
Connect the pressure sensor (7) part no. 552.1.039.1A to the pipe (6) jack (F) to transform the pressure signal into an
electrical signal.
Turn on the DDS diagnosis instrument (8) referring to the paragraph “Tester power supply”.
connector (E) on the DDS diagnosis instrument (8).
Connect the pressure sensor (7) to socket (A) or (C) of the cable (9).
On the DDS diagnosis instrument, select the “Measurement module” function by pressing the “Measurement Module“ icon;
then press the “Pressure Test” icon (F) followed by the “Start” icon (G).
letter: A, B or C.
The values may be displayed in three different ways: in one numeric form and in two graphic forms; to select the desired
display type, press the “Value display” icon (H).
The measured value is indicated alongside the letter (A) or (C) identifying the cable used for the measurement: i.e. if you
used connector (A) of the cable (3), the value measured will displayed next to the letter (A) on the screen.
The maximum pressure must be equal 3 bar (nominal).
On completion of the test, remove all the components of the test instrument, refit the fuel feed pipe (5) securing it with
the clamp.
Refit the tank, ensuring to lay the lambda sensor cable (10) into the relevant tab on the tank flange cover and set the fuel
pump connector (11) against the vertical head.
Secure the tank to the frame by fitting the screw (1) with washer (2) and tighten it to a torque of 10 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 -
Apply the recommended threadlocker to the screw (4).

Secure the tank to the subframe with the screw (4) and the washer (3).
Tighten the screw (4) to a torque of 10 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings), using a 5 mm Allen wrench to
counterhold the threaded insert (12) located on the upper part of the tank.
Important
The threaded insert (12) is not present in the USA version.
Refit the seat inserting the front ends of the seat base into the tabs on the tank, then push the rear end of the seat until
you hear the screw in the lock click into place.
Immobilizer override procedure
Note
In the event of a malfunction of the immobilizer system, it is possible to start the engine using the emergency procedure
described in Section 6 - 8, immobilizer and transponder, which requires a secret code that can be entered using the DDS
diagnosis instrument.
Connect the power and diagnostics cable (2) part no. 97900.0227S to the diagnostics connector (H) on the tester and to
the diagnostics socket (3) on the motorcycle.
Select “Engine electronics” and press the “Confirm” icon (B). Next, press the “Self-diagnosis” icon to access the
corresponding function.
relative values.
Note
Make all connections with the motorcycle ignition key in the OFF position.
Press the “Actuators” icon (C) to display the actuators and other components connected to the ECU.
Select the option “immobilizer Override” and then press the icon “Apply” (D).
A screen will appear in which you can enter the 5 digit secret code. Use the red arrows (E) and (F) to enter each digit:
after entering each digit, press the “Confirm” icon (B).
One the entire code has been entered, press the “Confirm” icon (B) again.
On completion of the operation, the message “Was the operation completed successfully?” will appear; press “Confirm”.
If any problems were encountered during the operation, the tester will display the relative error messages: each message
must be confirmed by pressing the “Confirm” icon, or rejected by pressing the “Exit” icon (G).
Disconnect the tester.
Guided diagnosis
Note
The DDS diagnosis instrument guides the operator step-by-step through the various diagnostic procedures,
providing descriptions and documentation for motorcycle components, wiring diagrams for the electronic systems and
information on the locations of specific components.
Connect the power and diagnostics cable (2) part no. 97900.0227S and the diagnostics connector (F) to the diagnostics
socket (3) on the motorcycle.
Select “Engine electronics” and press the “Confirm” icon (B).
Press the “Guided diagnosis” icon (C) to access the corresponding function.
A series of screens are displayed indicating the operations required for correct diagnosis.
To determine whether the system has any internal problems, you can access the “Self-diagnosis” function by pressing the
corresponding icon. If any errors are present, the symbol (D) will be displayed. To determine the type of errors present,
press the “Errors” icon (E). Once errors have been detected, you can then resolve them through the guided diagnosis
procedure; the “Guided Diagnosis” icon (C).
relative values.
Testing the battery charging system
Note
You can determine the engine rpm required for generator to produce just enough current to charge battery, feed the
injection ignition system and all electric items fitted to motorcycle. When applied to a cable, the clamp-type amperemeter
(1) part no. 88765.1126V detects the magnetic field generated by the current passing through that cable.

connector (D) on the DDS diagnosis instrument (1).
Connect the clamp-type amperemeter (1) to the connector (E) of the power and diagnostics cable (Measurement Module)
(3).
Warning
The clamp-type amperemeter must not be connected to wires through which electrical current is flowing.
Insert the clamp-type amperemeter into the battery positive terminal lead with the arrow on the clamp pointing towards
the battery positive terminal (+).
press the “Ammeter” icon (F) followed by the “Start” icon.
letter: A, B or C.
If the measured current is a positive quantity, it means that generator is feeding all electric items and charging battery at
the same time. If the current has a negative sign, this means that the charging system is not able to power the electrical
loads and a significant amount of the current required must be supplied by the battery, which is therefore discharging.
Important
If polarity is reversed when clamping the ammeter onto the cable, the sign of the readings will also be reversed, giving
rise to incorrect diagnosis.
ABS diagnosis
Note
If the ABS system is not working correctly, system diagnosis is possible through the DDS diagnosis instrument.
Turn on the DDS diagnosis instrument (1) referring to the paragraph “Tester power supply”: use the power cord (2) part
no. 97900.0230.
Connect the power supply cable (3) part no.97900.0227 tot he power cord (2) part no. 97900.0230 and to the ABS
diagnosis connector (B) on the frame.
Icons table
Symbol Description
Confirm
Exit
Measurement module
Belt tension
Start/stop
Menu 1
Select vehicle
Select motorcycle
Self-diagnosis
Settings
Apply
Cylinder synchronisation
Value display
Reset
Pressure test
Cylinder compression
Actuators
Guided diagnosis
Select system
Errors
Clamp-type amperemeter
1 - Front wheel 5
Removal of the front wheel 6
Overhauling the front wheel 8
Refitting the front wheel 10
2 - Rear wheel 13
Removal of the rear wheel 14
Overhauling the rear wheel 15
Refitting the rear wheel 16
3 - Front brake control 18

Removal of the front brake master cylinder 19
Refitting the front brake master cylinder 20
Maintenance operations 22
Removal of the front brake system 22
Removal of the brake discs 24
Overhauling the front brake components 24
Refitting the brake discs 24
Refitting the front brake system 25
4 - Rear brake control 29

Removal of the rear brake lever 30
Disassembly of the rear brake control 32
Refitting the rear brake control 33
Removal of the rear brake calliper 37
Refitting the rear brake calliper 39
5 - ABS system information 41

Operating principle 41
ABS system operating information 42
ABS system deactivation 44
Replacing the front phonic wheel sensor 46
Replacing the rear phonic wheel sensor 48
Removing of the ABS control unit 49
Refitting the ABS control unit 50
Flexible wiring/hoses positioning 53
Table A 54
Table B 55
Table C 57
Table D 59
Table E 60
Table F 63
7 - ABS components maintenance 65

Adjusting of the AIR-GAP phonic wheel sensor 65
Bleeding of the ABS hydraulic system 67
8.1 - Handlebar unit: Throttle twistgrip 68

Removal of the handlebar 69
Refitting the handlebar 70
Removal of the throttle twistgrip 71
Refitting the throttle twistgrip 73
8.2 - Handlebar unit: clutch lever 74

Removal of the clutch master cylinder assembly 75
Refitting the clutch master cylinder assembly 76
Removal of the clutch transmission unit 78
Refitting the clutch transmission unit 79
9 - Gearchange mechanism 84
Removal of the gearchange control 85
Disassembly of the gearchange control 86
Refitting the gearchange mechanism 87
10.1 - Fork - steering head: front fork 88

Removal of the front forks 89
Overhauling the front forks 90
Refitting the front forks 103
10.2 - Fork - steering head: Steering 104

Steering angle adjustment 106
Removal of the steering head components 107
Refitting the steering head components 113
12 - Rear shock absorber assembly 117

Rear suspension system 118
Removal of the rear shock absorber 118
Overhauling the rear shock absorber 119
Refitting the rear shock absorber 122
13 - Rear swingarm 123

Removal of the rear wheel eccentric hub and rear wheel shaft 125
Removal of the rear brake disc 127
Refitting the rear brake disc 128
Refitting the rear wheel eccentric hub and rear wheel shaft 129
Removal of the swingarm 133
Inspecting the swingarm pivot 136
Checking swingarm end float 137
Refitting the swingarm 138
14 - Final drive 142

Inspecting the final drive 143
Removing of the front sprocket 144
Refitting the front sprocket 146
Replacing of the rear sprocket 148
Refitting the rear sprocket 149
Washing the chain 150
Lubricating the chain 150
15 - Footrest brackets 151

Removal of the footrest brackets 152
Refitting the footrest brackets 155
16 - Stands 161
Removing of the side stand 162
Refitting the side stand 164
17 - Frame inspection 165

Disassembly of structural components and the frame 166
Removal of the frame 168
Removal of the rear subframe 171

Checking the frame 173
Reassembly of the rear subframe 174
Refitting the rear subframe 176
18 - Tail light-number plate holder and locks 177

Removal of the tail light-protection-number plate holder assembly 178
Refitting the tail light-protection-number plate holder assembly 182
Removal of the seat release mechanism 186
Refitting the seat release mechanism 187
Removal of the number plate holder 189
Refitting the number plate holder 190
Front wheel
1 -Front wheel
1 Nut
2 Screw
3 Left spacer
4 Sealing ring
5 Bearing
6 Inner spacer
7 Valve
8 Front wheel shaft
9 Front wheel rim
10 Right spacer
11 Phonic wheel*
796 FRONT FORKS

796 FRONT AND REAR WHEELS
796 ABS FRONT FORKS
796 ABS FRONT AND REAR WHEELS
Important
Note
* The marked parts are present only in the “ABS“ version.
Removal of the front wheel
Front wheel
Support the bike so that the front wheel is raised from the ground.
Remove the front brake calliper (B) by unscrewing the two screws (A) securing the calliper to the fork leg; do not
disconnect the calliper from the hose.
Warning
Do not operate the brake lever when the callipers are removed. This could cause fluid to leak out from the actuating
pistons.
Loosen and remove the nut (1) on left side of the wheel shaft.
Loosen the shaft clamp screws (2) on the ends of the fork legs.
Working from the left side, use a plastic mallet to drive the wheel shaft (8) out from the opposite side.
Remove the wheel and recover the spacers (3) and (10).
Overhauling the front wheel
Front wheel
Overhauling the front wheel bearings

Before checking the dimensions, check the wear on wheel bearings. Check for wear by hand after cleaning and degreasing
the bearings in their seats. Turn the inner race. Check the amount of radial and axial play. Excessive play will cause
vibration and make the bike unstable; in this case the bearings must be renewed. To remove the bearings (5) from the
wheel hub, proceed as follows.
Position a drift (C) against the inner race of the bearing (5).
Tap the drift with a hammer to drive out the bearing. Apply the drift at different points to keep the bearing square during
removal.
Important
Once removed, bearings must not be refitted. Before fitting new bearings, check that the housing is clean and free from
scoring and damage.
Grease the bearing seat and then push the new bearing into its seat.
Warning
Avoid getting grease on the braking surface of the disc during these operations as this could impair braking efficiency.
Using a tubular drift (D) which bears only on the outer ring of the bearing, drive the bearing fully into its seat. Ensure that
spacer (6) is fitted between the two wheel bearings.
Note
Wheels must be rebalanced after repair, maintenance and overhaul operations.
Overhauling the front wheel shaft
Front wheel
Check the wheel shaft for straightness.

Turn the pin on a reference surface and measure maximum distortion using a feeler gauge (see Sect. 3 - 1.1, Front
wheel).
Maximum permissible distortion: 0.05 mm.

The surfaces of the shaft must be free of any cracks, dents, scoring or any signs of damage, however light.
Localised polished areas are permitted.
Overhaul of the front and rear rim

After you have checked the bearings, check the rim as follows.
Visually inspect the wheel for cracks, scoring and deformation; change the wheel if damaged.
Insert the shaft in the wheel and mount it on two fixed reference blocks.
Using a dial gauge, measure rim runout and out-of-round relative to the shaft axis (see Sect. 3 - 1.1, Front wheel).
If the values measured are not within the tolerance limits, renew the wheel.
Maximum permissible rim runout 1 mm (0.04 in.).
Maximum permissible rim runout 0.5 mm (0.02 in.).
Refitting the front wheel

When all the necessary inspections have been completed, refit the wheel as follows.
Lubricate the shank and thread of the wheel shaft (8).
Front wheel
Fit the front wheel between the fork legs, installing spacer (10) in-between wheel hub and right-hand fork bottom end,
and spacer (3) in-between wheel hub and left-hand fork bottom end.
Warning
Position the front wheel considering that arrow (E), marked on wheel left-hand side, indicates direction of rotation when
running.
Fit service tool no. 8000.70139 on the wheel shaft (8).

Drive the shaft (8) fully home into the wheel hub, inserting the locating peg of the service tool in the special notches at
the bottom end of the fork.
Front wheel
Grease the thread and the underside of the head of shaft nut (1), then screw it onto the end of the wheel shaft.
Tighten the nut (1) to a torque of 63 Nm ±5% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Grease the threads and undersides of the heads of screws (A).

Screw in the two screws (A) securing the brake calliper (B).
Tighten the screws (A) to a torque of 2 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Operate the front brake lever two or three times.
Hold the lever pulled in towards the grip and tighten the screws (A) to a torque of 45 Nm ±5% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque
settings).
Check that the brake discs turn freely inside the callipers.
Before tightening the screws (2), lower the bike to the ground and push up and down on the handlebar to load the
suspension; so the fork legs will become properly seated onto the wheel shaft.
Lubricate the screws (2).
Tighten the screws (2) to a torque of 18 Nm ±5% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings), proceeding in a 1-2-1 sequence.
Front wheel
Rear wheel
2 -Rear wheel
1 Right-hand wheel nut

2 Washer
3 Bush
4 Valve
5 Wheel
6 Circlip

Important
Removal of the rear wheel

Place the motorcycle on the rear service stand and engage the 1 st gear.
Remove the circlip (6) securing the wheel nut.

Using a suitable socket wrench, loosen the wheel nut (1).
Fully unscrew the nut (1), then slide off the washer (2) and the bush (3).
Rear wheel
Remove the rear wheel from the motorcycle.
Overhauling the rear wheel

Inspect the condition of the rear wheel.
As the rear wheel has no bearings, it should be supported on the service tool part no. 88713.1073.
Note
This service tool can also be used to install the wheel on a balancing machine.
Overhauling the wheel

Inspect the wheel as follows:
Visually inspect the wheel for cracks, scoring and deformation; change the wheel if damaged.
Fit the wheel on service tool no. 88713.1073 using the original fasteners.
Using a dial gauge, appropriately supported, measure wheel rim runout and out-of-round according to the wheel shaft
(Sect. 3 - 1.1, Rear wheel).
If the values measured are not within the tolerance limits, renew the wheel.
Rear wheel
Refitting the rear wheel

Clean the mating surfaces and lubricate the threaded end of the wheel shaft with the recommended grease.
Fit the rear wheel centring it in the shaft and engaging pegs (A) into holes (B) on wheel.
Apply the recommended grease to the threads of the pin and of the nut (1).
Fit the bush (3) on shaft, setting it with the taper side facing the wheel, fit the washer (2) and insert nut (1) by hand.
Tighten the nut (1) to a torque of 176 Nm ±5% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings) checking that the hole on the nut is
aligned with one of those in the wheel shaft.
Possibly obtain this condition by slightly turning the nut.
Install clip (6) on nut, with the bent end (A) toward the wheel.
Insert clip (6) bent end (A) into nut hole (1) and wheel shaft hole.
Then push circlip (6) inside nut groove (1).
Rear wheel

Check the AIR-GAP G 9.3, Adjusting of the AIR-GAP
phonic wheel sensor
Front brake control
3 -Front brake control
1 Front brake master cylinder

2 Lever with grub screw
3 Rubber pad
4 Bracket
5 Microswitch
6 Lever pivot pin
7 Left brake calliper
8 U-bolt
9 Fluid reservoir cover
10 Inspection plug (replacement part)
11 Screw
12 Sealing washer
13 Banjo bolt
14 Callipers–master cylinder hose
15 Banjo bolt
16 Screw
17 Screw
18 Right brake calliper
19 Brake disc
20 Phonic wheel
21 Bleed valve
22 Dust cap
23 Screw
24 Front brake hose
25 Grommet
26 Hose clip
27 Banjo bolt
28 Washer
29 Screw
Front brake control
796 FRONT BRAKE

796 ABS FRONT BRAKE
Important
Removal of the front brake master cylinder
Warning
The brake master cylinder manufacturer advises against servicing the brake master cylinder due to the safety critical
nature of this component. Incorrect overhaul of these critical safety components can endanger rider and passenger safety.
Maintenance operations on these units are limited to replacing the following parts: control lever, reservoir unit, reservoir
fasteners and master cylinder fasteners.

Drain the braking system 4 - 3, Draining the brake circuit
Remove the rear-view mirrors 5 - 1, Removal of the rear-view
mirrors
Note
For the ABS front braking system, also refer to Sect. 7 - 5, ABS system operating information, Sect. 7 - 6, System
components, Sect. 7 - 7, ABS components maintenance.
Unscrew the special screw (15) securing the brake hose to the master cylinder and recover the sealing washers (12);
slide hose (14) out of front master cylinder.
Loosen the screws (8) securing the mounting U-bolt (11) and then remove the front brake master cylinder assembly (1)
from the handlebar.
For disassembly of components of the master cylinder assembly (1), refer to the exploded view at the beginning of this
chapter.
Refitting the front brake master cylinder

Insert the front brake master cylinder unit (1) on the right side of the handlebar to bring the terminal internal edge in
correspondence to the bolted joints (A).
Front brake control
Refit the U-bolt (11) on the handlebar and insert the screws (8).
Locate the pipe (14) and the gaskets (12) on the master cylinder unit (1) and secure with the special screw (15), but do
not tighten at this stage.
Tighten the retaining screws (11) to a torque of 10 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings) in the sequence 1-2-1
starting from the upper screw.
Warning
If incorrectly positioned, the hose can affect brake operation and foul moving parts.
Orientate the pipe (14) as illustrated in the figure and then tighten the special screw (15) to a torque of 23 Nm ± 10 %
Front brake control

Fill the brake circuit 4 - 3, Filling the brake system with
fluid
Refit the rear-view mirrors 5 - 1, Refitting the rear-view mirrors
Warning
Brake fluid is corrosive and will damage paintwork. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. In case of accidental contact, wash
the affected area with abundant running water and consult a doctor if necessary.
For all the maintenance operations (wear check and replacement of brake pads and brake fluids, etc.) see Sect. 4 - 3,
Maintenance operations.
Removal of the front brake system

Draining the braking circuit 4 - 3, Draining the brake circuit
Note
Unscrew the special screw (15) securing the brake hose to the master cylinder and recover the sealing washers (12);
slide hose (14) out of front master cylinder.
Loosen screw (C) to remove front brake hose (24) and the ABS sensor cable (A) from hose clip (B).
Front brake control
Loosen the screw (16) and slide the pipe (14) from the bracket (4) on the bottom yoke.
Warning
While removing the front brake hose, if you damage the hose clip (B) you shall renew it (Sect. 5 - 4, Removal of the front
mudguard).
If hose is not fastened by hose clip (B), it might interfere with tyre under braking and provoke accidents.
Loosen the two retaining screws (17) securing the left front brake calliper (7) to the fork leg.
Repeat the operation for the right brake calliper (18).
Free ABS sensor cable (A) from the dust seal (22) on front left-hand brake calliper (7).
Loosen the special screws (13) and (27) and recover the sealing washers (12) from both callipers.
Separate the front brake callipers from the brake pipes.
Note
Front brake control
For correct position of the ties fastening the ABS sensor cable (A) to front brake lines, please refer to Sect. 7 - 6, Flexible
wiring/hoses positioning.
Removal of the brake discs

Remove the front wheel 7 - 1, Removal of the front wheel
The front brake discs consist of an inner carrier, which is mounted to the wheel, and an outer rotor. Both parts must be
changed together as a pair.
Loosen the fixing screws (29) of the disc to the wheel, remove the disc (30) and in the ABS version, on its left side, slide
out the phonic wheel (20).
Overhauling the front brake components
Important
Critical safety components. The manufacturer of the brake calliper advises against servicing the internal components of
callipers. Incorrect overhaul of this component could endanger rider safety.
Maintenance operations on these units are limited to replacing the following parts: pads, fasteners and bleed valve
assembly.
Refer to the exploded view at the beginning of this section for indications on renewal of the above components.
The brake disc must be clean without any signs of rust, oil, grease or dirt and no deep scoring.
To check brake disc wear, refer to the service limits given in the paragraph “Hydraulic brakes“ (Sect. 3 - 1.1).
Refitting the brake discs

Before refitting the brake disc to the wheel, clean all contact surfaces thoroughly and smear a medium strength
threadlocker on the threads of retaining screws (29).
In the ABS version, operate on the left side to fit the phonic wheel (20).
Tighten the screws (29) securing the front brake disc (19) to the front wheel in the sequence: 1-3-5-2-4.
Tighten the retaining screws (29) to a torque of 25 Nm 5% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).

Refit the front wheel 7 - 1, Refitting the front wheel
Front brake control
Refitting the front brake system

When refitting the system, pay attention to the orientation of the couplings of the hoses (14) and (24).
Front brake control
Warning
If incorrectly positioned, the hose can affect brake operation and foul moving parts. Position the hose as shown in the
figure.
When reconnecting the brake hose to the calliper or master cylinder, make sure to install the sealing washers (12) either
side of the hose end fitting.
After orientating the coupling, lock the special screw (15) to a torque of 23 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque
settings).
Reconnect the hoses (14) and (24) to the front brake callipers (7) and (18) and tighten the screws (13) and (27) to a
torque of 23 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Note
Make sure that internal pipe coupling (14) and the external pipe coupling (24) are installed in the right brake calliper
(18).
Fit the RH calliper (18) over the disc.

Apply the recommended grease to the screws (17).
Hand tighten the bolts (17) to secure the callipers to the fork legs.
Tighten the screws initially to a torque of 2 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Repeat the operation for the left brake calliper (7).
Front brake control
Operate the front brake lever two or three times until the circuit is pressurised and force the pads against the brake disc.
Hold the lever pulled in towards the grip and tighten the calliper screws (7) to a torque of 45 Nm ± 5% (Sect. 3 - 3,
Frame torque settings).
Insert brake rubber block (D) into grommet (B) and ensure it is centred.
Fold hose clip (B) and fasten it by starting the screw (C) in its thread.
Insert hose (14) in bracket (4) and tighten screw (16) to a torque of 8 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Note
For correct position of the ties fastening the ABS sensor cable (A) to front brake lines (24), please refer to Sect. 7 - 6,
Flexible wiring/hoses positioning.

Filling the braking system 4 - 3, Filling the brake system with
fluid
Rear brake control
4 -Rear brake control
1 Banjo bolt
2 Sealing washer
3 Rear brake hose
4 Hose clip
5 Pin
6 Spring
7 Adjuster screw
8 Rubber pad
9 Brake lever
10 Nut
12 Washer
13 Switch
14 Bush
15 Fork
16 Hose
17 Rear brake master cylinder
18 Screw
19 Pushrod
20 Boot
21 Screw
22 Plug
23 Fluid reservoir assembly
24 O-ring
25 Nut
26 Copper gasket
27 Rear pump - control unit pipe
28 Control unit - rear calliper pipe
29 Screw
30 Rear brake calliper
Rear brake control
796 REAR BRAKE

796 ABS REAR BRAKE
Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.
Removal of the rear brake lever
Warning
nature of this component. Incorrect overhaul of this component could endanger rider safety.
Maintenance operations on these units are limited to replacing the following parts: control lever, reservoir unit, reservoir
fasteners and master cylinder fasteners.

Drain the braking system 4 - 3, Draining the brake circuit
Note
Undo the screw (21) and remove the reservoir (23) complete with the hose (16).
Unscrew the upper screw (A) securing the RH bracket to the swingarm.
Remove the washer between the bracket and the frame.
Unscrew the lower retaining screws (B) from crankcase.
Unscrew the screws (18) securing the rear brake master cylinder (17) to the footrest bracket (D).
Unscrew the banjo bolt (1) from the master cylinder (17), recovering the two sealing washers (2).
Remove the clamp (C).
Rear brake control
Unscrew the pin (5) securing the rear brake pedal lever to the footrest bracket and remove the spring (6), the complete
pedal lever (9) and the O-ring (24).
Disassembly of the rear brake control

The brake master cylinder is supplied only as a complete unit; internal components cannot be replaced.
To disassemble master cylinder external components, follow the indications given in the exploded view at the beginning of
this section.
If the brake pedal (9) inner bushing (14) needs to be renewed, fit the new bushing using a suitable press and position it
so that it is set in 2 mm from the outer face of the pedal.
To disassemble the various parts of the system, refer to the exploded view at the beginning of this chapter.
Warning
After performing an operation on the rear brake control, check the brake pedal position following the instructions detailed
Rear brake control
in Sect. 4 - 3, Adjusting the position of the gear change and rear brake pedals.
Refitting the rear brake control

Lubricate the O-ring (24) and install it on the pin (5).
Lubricate also the other O-ring (24).
Fit the spring (6) and the rotation pivot pin (5) to the footrest bracket, pushing the pivot pin fully home and positioning
the spring (6) as shown in the figure.
Apply threadlocker to the threads of the pivot pin (5).
Locate the line connecting rear brake master cylinder - ABS control unit (27) (796 ABS) or the pipe (3) (796) and
washers (2) on the rear brake master cylinder (17) and fix it with the special screw (1).
Note
If the hose connecting the rear master cylinder to the ABS control unit (27) and the one connecting master cylinder and
reservoir (16) are changed, ensure that the hose end fittings on master cylinder are positioned correctly.
Orientate the hoses (3) and (16) as illustrated in the figure and then tighten the screw (1) to a torque of 23 Nm ±10%
Rear brake control
If the pushrod (19), clip (11) and fork (15) assembly has been dismantled, reassemble by screwing the nut (25) onto the
pushrod (19) and then screw the pushrod into the clevis (15) to obtain the measurement indicated in the figure.
Restrain the pushrod and tighten the nut (25) against fork (15) to a torque of 7.5 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque
settings).
Position the rear brake master cylinder (17) onto the footrest bracket (D) then start screws (18) in their thread.
Tighten the retaining screws (18) to a torque of 23 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Rear brake control
Fit the rear brake control rod on the pivot bolt (9), securing it with the clip (11).
Now lubricate the other end of the pushrod (19) with the recommended grease and insert it in the master cylinder (1).
Refit the clamp (C).
Set the washer in-between the RH footrest bracket and the frame.
Fasten the right-hand side footrest bracket to the swinging arm using the screw (A), duly lubricated, and to engine using
screws (B). Tighten the screws (A) to a torque of 55 Nm ± 5% and the screws (B) to a torque of 36 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 -
3, Frame torque settings) in the mentioned sequence.

fluid
Removal of the rear brake calliper
Rear brake control
Important
nature of this component. Incorrect overhaul of this component could endanger rider safety.
Operations should be limited to renewal of the pads, fasteners and the bleed valve assembly.

Draining the brake system 4 - 3, Draining the brake circuit
Slacken the chain 4 - 3, Adjusting the chain tension
Remove the rear wheel 7 - 2, Removal of the rear wheel
Remove the lower fairing 7 - 13, Removal of the swingarm
protections
Note
Unscrew and remove the special screw (1) securing the hose to the rear brake calliper and recover the sealing washers
(2).
Note
Keep a cloth at hand to wipe up any brake fluid that leaks out of the hose.
Undo the screws (5) securing the rear brake calliper (29) to the calliper mounting bracket and remove the calliper.
Note
To replace the brake pads, please refer to Sect. 4 - 3, Checking brake pad wear and changing brake pads.
To remove the speed sensor (A), loosen the screw (B) securing it to the calliper mounting bracket, taking care not to
damage the spacer.
Rear brake control
Only the following parts should be renewed:

brake calliper: pads, fasteners and bleed valve assembly;
master cylinder: control pedal, bleed valve assembly, reservoir and its components.
Refer to the exploded view at the beginning of this section for indications on renewal of the above components.
To replace the speed wheel sensor (796 ABS) please refer to section 7-6 “Replacing the rear phonic wheel sensor“.
Refitting the rear brake calliper

When replacing the brake lines or removing one of the rear braking system components, pay special attention to the
position of the couplings on the master cylinder, callipers and control unit.
Warning
If the speed sensor (A) was removed, fit it on the calliper holder bracket with the spacer and tighten the screw (B) to a
torque of 1 Nm ± 10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Rear brake control
Fit the copper sealing washers (2) to either side of the hose end fitting when connecting the brake hose to the brake
calliper. Orientate the end fittings of the hose (6) on the calliper as shown in the photo.
Tighten the special screws (1) to a torque of 23 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Fit the rear brake calliper (30) over the brake disc, aligning it with the holes in the calliper mounting bracket. Grease the
threads and undersides of the heads of the screws (29). Tighten the screws (29) to a torque of 25 Nm ± 5% (Sect. 3 - 3,
Note
The gap between the sensor (A) and the brake disc fixing screw (B) must be within 0.6 to 2.2 mm.

Refit the lower fairing protections 7 - 13, Refitting the swingarm
Refit the rear wheel 7 - 2, Refitting the rear wheel
Rear brake control
Tension the chain 4 - 3, Adjusting the chain tension

fluid
ABS system information
5 - ABS system information

Operating principle
The Ducati ABS brake system manages the front and rear brakes separately. A pulse generator (phonic wheel), with a
ring of slots, is fixed onto each wheel. On the left calliper mounting bracket of the front fork and on the rear brake calliper
holder plate are HALL effect sensors which detect the full sections and voids on the phonic wheel as the vehicle moves,
providing and instantaneous wheel speed reading. These sensors transmit the data to the ABS control unit, which contains
software implementing a specific control algorithm developed by Ducati. The software compares the average speed of the
vehicle against the instantaneous wheel speed values to determine the degree of skidding. If the pressure applied to the
calliper by the rider causes the control limits to be exceeded, the control unit intervenes in the braking circuit relative to
the wheel for which incipient lock-up is detected. The ABS modulates the calliper pressure with a system of solenoid
valves that initially prevents any further increase in hydraulic pressure (EV valve closed), and then reduces pressure (AV
valve opened). The AV valve is opened in a series of pulses (with less than 10 milliseconds between successive pulses), to
reduce pressure in steps. When the wheel begins to rotate again in response to the diminished braking force applied and
the wheel speed reaches the reference value, the AV release valve is closed.
Simultaneously, the EV inlet valve is reopened, restoring normal operation of the brake system. The ABS control unit can
monitor and modulate brake force accordingly in the three following different conditions: dry road surface (high grip), wet
or greasy road surface (poor grip) and uneven road surface. ABS functionality is disabled at vehicle speeds lower than
5 km/h.
A diagram illustrating how the ABS system functions is given below.
The hydraulic component of the ABS system consists of a primary circuit (from the cylinder to the control unit and from
the control unit to the calliper) and a secondary circuit (completely within the control unit). The hydraulic layout of the
ABS system is given below.
Key for ABS hydraulic system layout
EV rear Rear calliper inlet valve

AV rear Rear calliper outlet valve
EV front Front calliper inlet valve
AV front Front calliper outlet valve
ABS system operating information

The response of the system is based on the analysis of the speed signals for front and rear wheels; the system is
automatically deactivated if either of these signals is missing.
Note
In the event of the ABS control unit detecting a fault in the ABS electronic management system, it activates the specific
fault warning indicator on the instrument panel and restores conventional braking functionality without ABS.
Hydraulic faults in the brake system and faults not directly related to the ABS system (e.g.: worn brake pads) cannot be
detected by the ABS control unit.
Important
The response of the system is based on the values read for the front and rear wheel speeds; take great care not to
damage the phonic wheels and relative speed sensors when removing the wheels or when working in the vicinity of these
components; damage to the phonic wheels damages may compromise the operation of the system and cause dangerous
malfunctions.
ABS diagnosis
The diagnostic function of the ABS 8M ascertains the functionality of the main system components via hardware/software
tests, but cannot modify the operating parameters of the ABS system. The DDS diagnostic instrument is connected by
cable to the ABS control unit communication link connector (A), located beneath the saddle. The connection cable
between the tester and the ABS control unit has another branch with a negative and a positive clamp that must be
connected to the vehicle battery to power the tester itself and enable communication with the ABS control unit.
From the AUTODIAGNOSIS menu of the DDS instrument, select the ABS system model and wait until the correct
configuration loads for analysing the configuration of the vehicle. After switching the vehicle to key-on state, the tester
communicates with the ABS control unit.
Once in this configuration, a number of parameters and states relative to the ABS control unit and information concerning
the control unit itself may be selected and displayed.
If the tester receives notification from the ABS control unit that there are diagnostic errors dating from a prior test session
still stored in its memory, the user is warned by specific message on the display and an audible alarm.
The ABS control unit identification number, identified by the prefix ID ECU, may be viewed from the INFO menu.
Select the function “View parameters and states”

This function allows the tester to display the following ABS system parameters and states:
Viewable parameters
Front wheel speed The speed value for the front wheel is displayed in Km/h.
Rear wheel speed The speed value for the rear wheel is displayed in Km/h.
System voltage value The system voltage value, measured across the terminals of the ABS
unit, is displayed in Volts
Viewable states
Hydraulic pump motor state Indicates if the electric motor of the hydraulic pump inside the ABS unit
is functioning or not.
Valve relay state Displays the state of the main valve relay inside the ABS unit.
Rear input valve state Displays the state of the normally open EV1 rear inlet valve (OFF if open,
ON if closed).
Front input valve state Displays the state of the normally open EV4 rear inlet valve (OFF if open,
ON if closed).
Front output valve state Displays the state of the normally closed AV4 rear outlet valve (OFF if
closed, ON if open).
ABS switch state Displays state of the analogue input of the ABS unit for the strategy
switch off request (1 state to Uz, 0 state to GND).
Select the function “View errors”

This tester function provided the user with information concerning the error list in the ABS control unit memory, indicating
if errors have been stored previously stored or if they are current. The following codes are given after a short description
of the diagnosis type: MEM, indicating that the error has been stored previously by the ABS control unit but has not been
detected in the current test session. ATT, indicating that the error is current and has been detected during the current test
session.
Note
While ATT indicates that the error has been diagnosed during the current test session, it does not necessarily indicate that
the error is actually active at the time of indication. For example: disconnecting the front wheel speed sensor causes the
code ATT to be displayed after the error description, but the code continues to be displayed even once the cause of its
activation has been eliminated by reconnecting the sensor, as the ABS will only check sensor operation again after the
next key-off/key-on cycle. As a result, always perform a key-on/key-off cycle after any work on the ABS system,
interrupting and reopening communication between the diagnostic instrument and the ABS control unit before checking
the updated ABS error list again.
The abbreviations for all the errors displayed are given as follows:
Errors Description
Front ABS speed sensor signal Disconnected/short circuit to GND/short circuit to Uz of rear wheel speed
sensor
Plausibility of signal from front Front wheel speed sensor fault – Plausibility
wheel speed sensor
Rear speed sensor signal Disconnected/short circuit to GND/short circuit to Uz of front wheel speed
sensor
Plausibility of signal from rear Rear wheel speed sensor fault – Plausibility
wheel speed sensor
Plausibility of difference between Speed difference between front and rear wheel (WSS_GENERIC)
front and rear wheel speeds
Front inlet valve fault Front inlet valve (EV) fault
Rear outlet valve fault Rear outlet valve (AV) fault
Rear inlet valve fault Rear inlet valve (EV) fault
Front outlet valve fault Front outlet valve (AV) fault
ABS pump fault ABS pump motor fault
Valve relay fault Valve relay fault (Failsafe relay)
ABS unit electronic control unit ECU fault
fault
ABS unit power circuit fault ABS power circuit fault
Select the function “ABS system information”

This tester function displays the identification data for the ABS system, such as Supplier reference, Software version and
BARCODE.
e.g.:
Supplier ref.: DUCM696
Software version: 67890
Bar Code Data: HQOJM98200RA
ABS system deactivation

Carry out the procedure described in Sect. 6 - 7, ABS disabling function (796 ABS).
Warning
If the vehicle front wheel remains off the ground for a prolonged period while the vehicle is in motion, the speed
difference detected between the two wheels causes an ABS fault (warning light activated) and makes it impossible for the
control unit to establish a reference speed.
System components
6 - System components
1 Screw
2 ABS / speed sensor (Front)
3 Sealing washer
4 ABS / speed sensor mount (Front)
5 Speed sensor / ABS (Rear)
6 ABS control unit
7 Front pump - control unit pipe
8 Control unit - front calliper pipe
9 Rear pump - control unit pipe
10 Control unit - rear calliper pipe
11 Sealing washer
12 Support (ABS)
13 Bracket
14 (Lower) Rubber block
15 (Upper) Rubber block
16 Screw
17 Screw
18 Rubber pad
19 Guide
20 Special screws
21 Front brake hose
796 ABS ANTILOCK BRAKING SYSTEM (ABS)
Important
System components
Replacing the front phonic wheel sensor

Disconnect the front ABS sensor (2) connector (A) from the main electric wiring.
Open all the retainer clamps of the front ABS sensor cable (2): refer to the tables in Sect. 7 - 6, Flexible wiring/hoses
positioning.
Remove the front mudguard (Sect. 5 - 4, Removal of the front mudguard) and remove the speed sensor mounting bracket
(4): the bracket is fastened by the two screws (B) retaining the front mudguard (left-hand side).
Loosen retaining screw (1) and remove the front ABS sensor (2) with calibrated gasket (3).
Before refitting, make sure that the contact parts between the front ABS sensor (2) and its seat on mounting bracket (4)
are not damaged and are perfectly clean.
Fit the new front ABS sensor (2) on the bracket (4) .
Check the air gap between the front ABS sensor (2) and the front phonic wheel (C) as indicated in Sect. 7 - 7, Adjusting
of the AIR-GAP phonic wheel sensor.
Fix the bracket (4) with sensor onto fork leg with the screw (1) and tighten it to a torque of 7 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3,
Frame torque settings) then refit the front mudguard (Sect. 5 - 4, Refitting the front mudguard).
System components
Connect the connector (A) to the main wiring.

Restore all the retainer clamps of the front ABS sensor cable (2): refer to table of Sect. 7 - 6, Flexible wiring/hoses
positioning.
Replacing the rear phonic wheel sensor

Remove the right-hand footrest bracket (Sect. 7 - 15, Removal of the footrest brackets).
Disconnect the rear ABS sensor (5) connector (D) from the main electric wiring.
Open all the retainer clamps of the rear ABS sensor cable (5): refer to table of Sect. 7 - 6, Flexible wiring/hoses
positioning.
Remove the rear ABS sensor (5) from its seat on the rear calliper mounting bracket (7), undoing the fixing screw (1) and
collect the calibrated gasket (3).
Check the air gap between the new rear ABS sensor (5) and the rear phonic wheel (E) as indicated in Sect. 7 - 7,
Adjusting of the AIR-GAP phonic wheel sensor.
Fix the sensor to the calliper holder bracket tightening the screw (1) to the specified torque (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque
settings).
Connect the connector (D) to the main wiring.

Restore all the retainer clamps of the rear ABS sensor cable (5): refer to table of Sect. 7 - 6, Flexible wiring/hoses
positioning.
System components
Refit the right-hand footrest bracket (Sect. 7 - 15, Refitting the footrest brackets).
Removing of the ABS control unit

Drain the brake fluid in the pipes disconnecting these from the cylinder and from the calliper (Sect. 4 - 3, Draining the
brake circuit).
Loosen the four special screws (20) securing the pipes (10), (9), (8) and (7), on the ABS control unit (6), eliminating the
gaskets (11).
Warning
Every time that gaskets (11) are removed, they must be replaced with new gaskets (11).
Disconnect the connector (F) from the ABS control unit (6).
Remove the ABS control unit (6).
Important
Do not open the ABS control unit: if it is faulty, replace it.
Note
Should it be necessary to replace one or more hoses, follow the procedure outlines in the paragraph “Flexible wiring/hoses
positioning“ to determine the hose routing on the vehicle.
System components
Refitting the ABS control unit

When refitting the system, pay attention to the orientation of the couplings of the hoses (7), (8), (9) and (10).
Warning
Position the hose as shown in the figure.

In particular, use a new gasket set (11) and tighten the screws (23) to a torque of 23 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame
torque settings).
System components
To fill up the system, carry out the instructions for replacement of fluid of the pump or calliper to which the pipe is
connected (Sect. 4 - 3, Filling the brake system with fluid).
Important
If the ABS control unit is replaced, this must be supplied with secondary circuit already full of fluid; the control unit must
be fitted and the system filled and bled as a traditional system.

Flexible wiring/hoses positioning

The routing of the ABS wiring has been optimised to ensure the minimum obstruction.
Each section is designed to prevent interference with parts that might damage wires or cause operating failures when
riding.
Table Position Description

Table E - Table F 2 ABS / speed sensor (Front)
Table C - Table D 5 Speed sensor / ABS (Rear)
Table A 6 ABS control unit
Table A - Table E 7 Front pump - control unit pipe
Table A - Table E 8 Control unit - front calliper pipe
Table A - Table B - Table D 9 Rear pump - control unit pipe
Table A - Table B - Table C 10 Control unit - rear calliper pipe
Table C - Table E - Table F 19 Hose clip
Table E - Table F 21 Front brake hose
Table A
System components
Table B
System components
Table C
System components
System components
Table D
System components
Table E
System components
System components
System components
Table F
System components
System components
ABS components maintenance
7 -ABS components maintenance

Adjusting of the AIR-GAP phonic wheel sensor
(For front as well as rear sensor) In each case of maintenance that foresees:
- replacement or refitting of the wheel
- replacement or refitting of the phonic wheel (1) or (2)
- replacement or refitting of the brake discs
- replacement or refitting of the speed sensor (3) or (4)
- (front) replacement or refitting of the sensor holder bracket
- (rear) replacement or refitting of the calliper holder bracket
it is necessary to check the air-gap between the speed sensor and the phonic wheel, once the components are refitted.
For this purpose, use a feeler gauge (A) to check the air-gap; then, carry out 4 measures of the air-gap, one every 90° of
wheel turn.
If the difference between the minimum and maximum values detected is higher than 0.40 mm, replace the phonic wheel.
Once checked that the difference is lower than or equal to 0.40 mm, carry out the shimming of the phonic wheel sensor
(3) or (4) by the appropriate calibrated thickness spacers (B).
Phonic wheels cleaning

It is important to check that both phonic wheels (1) and (2) are always clean.
Otherwise: gently remove any possible dirt deposits with a cloth or metal brush. Avoid using solvents, abrasives and air
or water jets directly on the phonic wheel (1) or (2).
Bleeding of the ABS hydraulic system

If some “sponginess” is detected on the brake control, due to air bubbles in the system, bleed the system, as indicated in
Sect. 4 - 3, Changing the brake fluid.
Before bleeding a brake master cylinder, move back the calliper pistons, as indicated in (Sect. 4 - 3, Filling the brake
system with fluid) to drain in the pump the air collected near the ABS control unit
Bleeding must be carried out by means of the corresponding joints (1) placed near the callipers and the brake cylinders.
Important
Do not undo the fixing screws of the joints of the pipes on the ABS hydraulic control unit, unless control unit replacement
is necessary.
Important
If the ABS control unit is replaced, this must be supplied with secondary circuit already full of fluid; the control unit must
be fitted and the system filled and bled as a traditional system.
Handlebar unit: Throttle twistgrip
8.1 -Handlebar unit: Throttle twistgrip
1 Upper clamp
2 Plug
3 Screw
4 Handlebar
5 Grips
6 Throttle twistgrip
7 Cover
8 Screw
9 Screw
10 Throttle cable
11 Throttle cable adjuster on handlebar
12 Throttle cable adjuster on throttle body

Important
Removal of the handlebar

Remove the throttle twistgrip 7 - 8.1, Removal of the throttle
twistgrip
Remove the RH and LH handlebar 6 - 5, Checking the indicating
switches devices
Remove the front brake lever 7 - 3, Removal of the front brake
master cylinder
Remove the clutch lever 7 - 8.2, Removal of the clutch
master cylinder assembly
Unscrew and remove the screws (3) securing the upper clamp (1).
Remove the upper clamp (1).
Remove the handlebar (4) from its seat on the steering head.
To remove the grips (5), refer to the exploded view at the beginning of this chapter.
Refitting the handlebar

Position and orientate the handlebar (4) so that the punch marks (A) are equidistant from the lower clamp and aligned
with the face of the clamp.
Apply the recommended grease to the threads and undersides of the heads of the screws (3).
Important
Set the upper U-bolt (1) so that arrows (B) are pointing to the tank.
Refit the upper clamp (1) and insert the screws (3).
Tighten the screws (3) to a torque of 25 Nm ±5% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings), applying the sequence 1-2-3-4-3,
as indicated in the figure.

Refit the front brake lever 7 - 3, Refitting the front brake
master cylinder
Refit the right-hand and left-hand 6 - 5, Checking the indicating
handlebar switches devices
Refit the throttle twistgrip 7 - 8.1, Refitting the throttle
twistgrip
Refit the clutch lever 7 - 8.2, Refitting the clutch master
cylinder assembly
Adjusting the throttle cable

To operate on the set screws of the throttle grip cables, consult Sect. 4 - 3, Adjusting the throttle cable.
Removal of the throttle twistgrip

Turn throttle control pulley so as to disengage cable stop pin (A) from pulley.
Raise gaiter (B), loosen lock nut (C) and adjuster (12) until sliding it off the throttle control pulley on throttle body.
Loosen and remove the screws (8) and the cover (7), then disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle control, by
sliding off the cable stop pin (D) from the pulley and loosening adjuster (11) until removing it.
Remove the throttle cable (10) from the vehicle.

Remove the plug (2) from the handlebar.
Loosen the two screws (9) fixing the throttle twistgrip to handlebar.
Remove the throttle twistgrip (6) from the handlebar.
Refitting the throttle twistgrip

To refit the throttle control components, proceed in inverse order to the removal procedure, making sure that the twistgrip
housings locate in the reference hole in the handlebar.
Apply the recommended grease to the throttle cable (10).
Tighten the screws (9) to a torque of 6 Nm ±10% in the sequence 1-2-1 and the screws (8) to a torque of 1.8 Nm ±10%
Note
Refer to the tables on the next page for correct routing of the throttle grip cable.
Handlebar unit: clutch lever
8.2 -Handlebar unit: clutch lever
1 Clutch master cylinder

2 Inspection plug (replacement part)
3 Lever pivot pin
4 Lever with grub screw
5 Fluid reservoir cover
6 Clutch hose
7 Mounting clamp
8 Sealing washer
9 Banjo bolt
10 Banjo bolt
11 Bleed valve
12 Dust cap
13 O-ring
14 Clutch transmission unit
15 Screw
16 Clutch pushrod
17 O-ring
18 Microswitch
19 Washer
20 Rubber pad
21 Guide
22 Screw
23 Rubber pad
796 CLUTCH
796 CLUTCH CONTROL
796 ABS CLUTCH
796 ABS CLUTCH CONTROL
Important
Removal of the clutch master cylinder assembly
Warning
The clutch master cylinder manufacturer advises against servicing of the clutch master cylinder (1) due to the safety-
critical nature of this component. Incorrect overhaul of this component could endanger rider safety.
Maintenance operations of the master cylinder are limited to replacing the following parts: control lever, reservoir unit,
and master cylinder fasteners.

Drain the clutch system 4 - 3, Draining the clutch hydraulic
circuit
Remove the LH mirror 5 - 1, Removal of the rear-view
mirrors
Unscrew the banjo bolt (9) recovering the sealing washers (8), to release the clutch master cylinder assembly (1) from
the clutch control hose (6).
Unscrew the two clamp screws (7) securing the clutch master cylinder assembly to the handlebar.
Refer to the exploded view at the beginning of this section for indications on disassembly and replacement of the master
cylinder components.
Refitting the clutch master cylinder assembly

Insert the clutch master cylinder unit (1) on the left side of the handlebar to bring the terminal internal edge in
correspondence to the bolted joints (A).
Tighten the fixing screws (7) to a torque of 10 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings) following the sequence 1-2-
1 starting from the upper screw.
Locate the hose (6) and sealing washers (8) on the master cylinder (1) and secure with the banjo bolt (9), but do not
tighten at this stage.
Warning
An incorrectly positioned hose can cause clutch faults and interfere with moving parts.
For the positioning of the clutch hose (6) and retaining clips, see the illustration at the end of this section.
Orientate the hose (6) as illustrated in the figure and then tighten the special screw (9) to a torque of 4 Nm ± 10% (Sect.
3 - 3, Frame torque settings).

Fill the clutch circuit 4 - 3, Filling the clutch circuit
Refit the LH mirror 5 - 1, Refitting the rear-view mirrors
Removal of the clutch transmission unit
Warning
The clutch slave cylinder manufacturer advises against servicing of internal components of clutch slave cylinder(23) due to
the safety critical nature of this component.
Incorrect overhaul of these critical safety components can endanger rider and passenger safety.
The only components that should be renewed are the complete clutch transmission unit, the bleed valve, the seals and
the complete clutch pushrod assembly.

Drain the clutch system 4 - 3, Draining the clutch hydraulic
circuit
Undo the three screws (15) securing the clutch transmission unit (14) to the engine and withdraw the unit from the
crankcase.
Remove the dust cap (12) and the bleed valve (11) and unscrew the banjo bolt (10), taking care to recover the sealing
washers (8): the unit (14) is now disconnected from hose (6).
Push in the piston to force out all the fluid from inside the cap.
At this point, it is possible to slide also the clutch gear rod (16). Check the wear state of the two O-rings (17) and replace
them, if necessary.
Note
If the two O-rings (17) need to be replaced, it is necessary to replace also the O-ring (13) of the unit (14).
Refitting the clutch transmission unit
Note
If the clutch pushrod (16) is replaced, it is necessary also to replace the O-rings (17) and (13) of the unit (14).
Grease and refit the clutch pushrod (16) with the two O-rings (17).
Note
If the unit (14) is replaced, it is necessary also replace the O-ring (13) and the two O-rings (17) of the pushrod (16).
Place the unit (14) on the crankcase, tighten the screws (15) to a torque of 10 Nm ±10% in the sequence 1-2-3-1
Locate the pipe (6) on the clutch transmission unit(14), paying attention to the pipe retainer direction in the unit (23).
Warning
An incorrectly positioned hose can cause clutch faults and interfere with moving parts.
Position the two gaskets (8) and tighten the screw (10) to a torque of 23 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Refit the bleed valve (11) and the dust cap (12).
To position the pipe retaining clamps (6) refer to the table on the following page.

Fill the clutch circuit 4 - 3, Filling the clutch circuit
Positioning of the clutch hose
Gearchange mechanism
9 -Gearchange mechanism
1 Bolt
2 Gearchange pedal
3 Screw
4 Rubber pad
5 Bush
6 Washer
7 Nut
8 Ball joint
9 Nut
10 Gearchange lever tie-rod
11 Nut
12 Nut
13 Ball joint
14 Gearchange lever
15 Screw
16 Screw
17 O-ring
796 GEARCHANGE LEVER - FOOTREST

796 ABS GEARCHANGE LEVER - FOOTREST
Important
Removal of the gearchange control

Unscrew and remove the pivot screw (1) securing the gearchange pedal (2) and recover the washer (6) and the O-ring
seals (17).
Unscrew and remove the clamp screw (16) securing the gearchange lever (14) to the gear selector shaft.
Withdraw the lever (14) complete with the gearchange control assembly.
Note
Mark the position of lever (14) relative to the gear selector shaft.
To remove the lever (14) from the gearchange assembly, remove the bolt (15).
Disassembly of the gearchange control

Refer to the exploded view at the beginning of this section for indications on disassembly and renewal of gearchange
components.
If the bush (5) inside the pedal (2) needs replacing, drive the new bush into place using a press. The bush must be seated
2 mm below the outer face of the pedal.
Warning
After working on the gearchange mechanism, check the position of the gear pedal.
To adjust the gearchange pedal position, follow the instructions indicated in Sect. 4 - 3, Adjusting the position of the gear
change and rear brake pedals.
Refitting the gearchange mechanism

To refit the gearchange control, reverse the operations of the removal procedure.
Note
Fit new O-rings (17) on each reassembly.
In particular, apply threadlocker to the screw (16), the pivot bolt (1) and the screw (15) and then tighten them to the
specified torque (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
- the screws (15) and (16) to a torque of 10 Nm ±10%;
- the pivot bolt (1) to a torque of 24 Nm ±10%.
Fork - steering head: front fork
10.1 Fork
- - steering head: front fork
1 Right fork leg assembly

2 Left fork leg assembly
3 Banjo bolt
4 Washer
5 Screw
6 Right inner tube assembly
7 Plug
8 Damper tube
9 Spring
10 Spacer
11 Joint
12 Preload tube
13 Nut
14 Spring
15 Rubber mounting
16 O-ring
17 Complete damper
18 Outer tube
19 Left inner tube assembly
20 Bush
21 Overhaul kit
22 Bottom yoke
23 Steering head
24 Screw
25 Screw
796 FRONT FORKS

796 ABS FRONT FORKS
Important
Removal of the front forks

Before removing the front forks, it is first necessary to remove the following parts:

Removal of the front ABS sensor 7 - 6, Replacing the front phonic
wheel sensor
Removal of the front brake callipers 7 - 3, Removal of the front brake
system
Removal of the front mudguard 5 - 4, Removal of the front
mudguard
Removal of the front wheel 7 - 1, Removal of the front wheel
Important
Not all the components described in this chapter are available as individual replacement parts: however they are indicated
for clearer explanation of the procedure.
Loosen the clamp screws (25) holding the fork legs to the steering head (23).
Loosen the clamp screws (24) securing the fork legs to the bottom yoke (22).
Withdraw the fork legs (2) and (1) downwards in order to carry out to all the necessary overhaul operations.
Overhauling the front forks
Note
It is advisable to loosen the top cap (7) when the fork leg is still fitted to the motorcycle.
Note
The specific tools for the revision of the fork, are described in Sect. 3 - 4, Specific tools for the frame.
Disassembly of the front fork right leg
Unscrew the top cap (7).
Remove the filler cap assembly (7).
Fit the service tool part no. 88713.0957, engaging its pins (A) in the spring retainer holes, and secure in place with the
screw (B).
Push the tool downwards to compress the spring and then fit the tool spacer (C) under the cartridge lock nut (13).
Apply a wrench to the flats (D) and counterhold the lock nut to loosen the top cap (7).
Remove the cap (7).
Fit service tool part no. 88713.0958 and screw it onto the damper rod.
Push downwards to overcome the force of the spring and remove the spacer (C).
Remove the service tool part no. 88713.0957 and slide out the preload tube (12).
Remove the spring (9) and pump the outer tube (18) and the damper (8) to expel the oil from the fork leg.
Warning
This movement generates pressure so that the oil will be rapidly expelled from the fork leg.
Aim the jet of oil into a previously prepared container and avoid contact with fork oil.
Clamp the inner tube (6) in a vice with soft-faced jaws.

Unscrew the screw (3).
Remove the adjuster screw (3) and recover the seal (4).
Remove the complete damper assembly (8) and locating ring (10).
Slide the dust seal (E) off the outer tube (18), prising it off with a screwdriver.
Remove the circlip (F).
Important
Take care not to damage the outer tube (18) or inner tube (6).
To separate the outer tube (18) from the inner tube (6), pull the inner tube sharply outwards repeatedly to gradually
displace the bottom bush (G).
Insert the tip of a screwdriver in the slit in the bush (H) and open it up sufficiently to slide the bush off the inner tube.
Remove the following parts from the inner tube (6):

- bush (G)
- ring (I)
- sealing ring (J)
- circlip (F)
- dust seal (E).
Disassembly of the front fork left leg

Unscrew the top cap (7).
Remove the top cap (7) complete with nut (13), rubber bush (15), bush (20), spring and complete damper assembly (17).
Remove the spring (14) and pump the outer tube (18) to expel the oil from the fork leg.
Warning
This movement generates pressure so that the oil will be rapidly expelled from the fork leg.
Aim the jet of oil into a previously prepared container and avoid contact with fork oil.
Slide the dust seal (E) off the outer tube (18), prising it off with a screwdriver.
Remove the circlip (F).
Important
Take care not to damage the outer tube (18) or inner tube (19).
To separate the outer tube (18) from the inner tube (19), pull the inner tube sharply outwards repeatedly to gradually
displace the bottom bush (G).
Insert the tip of a screwdriver in the slit in the bush (H) and open it up sufficiently to slide the bush off the inner tube.
Remove the following parts from the inner tube (19):

- bush (G)
- ring (I)
- sealing ring (J)
- circlip (F)
- dust seal (E).
Inspection of the front fork right leg

Place the spring on a flat surface and measure the free length (L).
Service limit:
- 270 mm.
Renew the spring if the length is not within the specified limit.
Inspect the outer surfaces of both fork inner tubes and the internal surfaces of both outer tubes. They must be free from
scoring, steps, or dents.
Check that the outer tubes are straight:
- maximum allowed error 0.10 mm.
Whenever the inner tube is removed from the outer tube it is good practice to renew the bushes (G) and (H).
Reassembly of the front fork right leg

Locate the outer tube (18) on the inner tube (6).
Insert the locating bush (10).
Insert the damper assembly (8).
Fit the seal (4) and tighten the adjuster screw (3).
Hold the left fork leg assembly (2) in a vertical position and fill with fork oil, using 500±2,5 CC of the specific oil.
Check the quantity of oil measuring the distance of the level from the end of the outer tube (18).
This distance should be 81 mm.
Clean off any oil from spring (9) and spring retainer (12) before assembly.
Note
Install the spring (9), ensuring that the end with tighter coils is towards the bottom of the fork.
Fit the following components:

- spring (9);
- spring retainer (12).
Fit service tool part no. 88713.0957 (previously used for removal) into the lateral hole of the spring retainer (12).
Press tool down and set spacer (C) under the cartridge (8) lock nut.
Remove service tool no. 88713.0958.
Screw the top cap (7) onto the damper (8).
Using a hexagon wrench, hold the rebound damping adjuster and tighten the top cap to 30 to 40 Nm.
Remove the spacer (C) by pushing the tool part no. 88713.0957 downwards.
Warning
The adjuster on the top cap (7) should be screwed fully onto the thread of the damper (8).
Lift the outer tube (18) and tighten the top cap (7) to a torque of 30 to 40 Nm.
Set the adjusters according to riding requirements.
Inspection of the front fork left leg

Place the spring on a flat surface and measure the free length (L).
Service limit:
- 270 mm.
Renew the spring if the length is not within the specified limit.
Inspect the outer surfaces of both fork inner tubes and the internal surfaces of both outer tubes. They must be free from
scoring, steps, or dents.
Check that the outer tubes are straight:
- maximum allowed error 0.10 mm.
Whenever the inner tube is removed from the outer tube it is good practice to renew the bushes (G) and (H).
Reassembly of the front fork left leg

Locate the outer tube (18) on the inner tube (19).
Before reassembly, remove any oil from the spring (14).
Note
Install the spring (14), ensuring that the end with tighter coils is towards the bottom of the fork.
Hold the left fork leg assembly (2) in a vertical position and fill with fork oil, using 538±2.5 CC of the specific oil.
Refit the top cap (7) complete with nut (13), rubber bush (15), bush (20), spring and complete damper assembly (17) on
the outer tube (18) and tighten to the specified torque.
Refitting the front forks

Refit the fork legs, positioning them at the height shown in the figure relative to the upper surface of the bottom yoke.
Position the legs (2) and (1). If they were removed, grease the thread and the underside of the screws (24) and (25) and
place them in their seats.
Tighten the screws (24) to a torque of 24 Nm ±5% and the screws (25) to a torque of 22 Nm ±5% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame
torque settings) in the sequence 1-2-1.
Warning
Do not use the motorcycle without the front mudguard fitted to avoid the risk of the brake pipes fouling the wheel on
braking.

Refitting the front wheel 7 - 1, Refitting the front wheel
Refitting the front mudguard 5 - 4, Refitting the rear mudguard
Refitting the front brake callipers 7 - 3, Refitting the front brake
system
Refitting the front ABS sensor 7 - 6, Replacing the front phonic
wheel sensor
Fork - steering head: Steering
10.2 Fork
- - steering head: Steering
1 Screw
2 Steering head
3 Screw
4 Lower U-bolt
5 Bearing
6 Bearing
7 Screw
8 Sealing ring
9 Nut
10 Spacer
11 Washer
12 Nut
13 Washer
14 Screw
15 Bottom yoke
16 Dowel
17 Nut
18 Sealing ring
19 Vibration damper mount
20 Guide
21 Bracket
22 Washer
23 Screw
24 Screw
25 Washer
26 Rubber pad
27 Hose clip
796 HEADLIGHT
796 ABS HEADLIGHT
Important
Adjusting the steering head bearings
Note
To adjust the steering bearing clearance, follow what is described in Sect. 4 - 3, Adjusting the steering head bearings.
If the problems found are not solved, check the wear of steering bearings (5) and (6) and replace them, if necessary, as
described in paragraph “Removal of the steering head components” of this section.
Steering angle adjustment

Loosen the nuts (17) and adjuster screws (16) on both sides of the bottom yoke.
Use a 6 to 6.5 mm spacer (A) fitted to the fork outer tube, or use a gauge.
Turn the front forks to the right until the spacer (A) is seated against the frame top tube.
Turn the adjuster screw (16) on the opposite side to bring it into contact with the stop on the steering head.
Apply threadlocker to the thread of nut (17). Hold the adjuster screw (16) firm and tighten the nut (17). Turn the forks to
the opposite side: and repeat the process to adjust the other dowel and tighten the relative lock nut.
Once adjusted, set handlebar completely turned right and ensure that the gap between front brake line and lower frame
trellis is at least 1 mm. If it is not so, decrease steering angle by working the right-hand adjuster.
Removal of the steering head components

Remove the headlight fairing 5 - 1, Removal of the headlight
fairing
Remove the headlight 6 - 4, Renewal of the headlight
Removal of the front mudguard 5 - 4, Removal of the front
mudguard
Removal of the front wheel 7 - 1, Removal of the front wheel
Remove the fork legs 7 - 10.1, Removal of the front forks
Disassembling the handlebar from 7 - 8, Removal of the handlebar
the steering head
Note
All parts fitted to the top and bottom yokes, including the wiring and control cables, can remain on the motorcycle
provided they do not hinder the following operations.
Loosen the screws (24) and remove the steering head from the hose clips (27); recover the washers (25).
Note
In the “ABS“ version the hose clip marked with an arrow is not present.
Loosen the screw (3) securing the steering head (2) to the steering head nut (12).
Remove the steering head (2).
With the service tool no. 88713.1058 loosen the nut (12) and unscrew it from the steering shaft.
Slide the sealing ring (8), the inner race (A) and the ball race (B) of the upper bearing (5) off the steering shaft.
Remove the bottom yoke (15) complete with the steering shaft from the frame tube.
Remove the ball race (B) of the lower bearing (6).
The inner race (A) of the lower bearing (6) and the relative sealing ring (18) will remain on the steering shaft.
Using a universal puller (see figure) remove the inner race (A) and the spacer (13) from the steering shaft, taking care
not to damage the seat.
Important
Once disturbed, the oil seals (8) and (18) and bearings (5) and (6) must not be refitted.
Using a suitable drift, remove the outer bearing races (C) from the steering head. Proceed with extreme care to avoid
damaging the seats.
Disassembly of the steering head

While holding the nuts (9), unscrew and remove the screws (7), washers (11) and the lower clamp (4) from the steering
head.
Unscrew the screws (23) and remove the guide (20).

Recover the washers (22) and the headlight support bracket (21).
Reassembly of the steering head

If the spacers (10) were removed from the steering head, lubricate with silicone spray.
Seat the spacers (10) square in the bores (D) in the steering head, orienting them as shown in the figure.
Important
To drive in the spacers (10), use a drift that bears only on the outer ring (E) while applying a counterforce on zone (F) on
the underside of the steering head.
On completion of the operation, clean all excess lubricant from the components.
Fit the rubber mountings (19) on the headlight support brackets (21).
Fit the headlight support brackets (21), the guide (20) and the washers (22) with the screws (23).
Locate the lower clamp (4) on the steering head.

Fit the screws (7) complete with the washers (11) in the lower clamp (4).
Insert the washers (11) on the screws (7) and start the nuts (9) in their threads.
Tighten the nuts (9) to a torque of 45 Nm ±5% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings) while holding the screws (7).
Refitting the steering head components
Important
The steering head bearings (5) and (6) are identical but in no case may their components be swapped around during
reassembly.
Clean all contact surfaces and lubricate with the recommended grease.
To fit the outer rings (C) of the bearings (5) and (6) to the steering head, use the service tool no. 88713.1062 and
proceed as follows:
- heat the steering head to 150 °C;
- fit the outer races (C) in their seats on the steering head;
- fit the fixed bush (G, with threaded hole) of the tool into the lower race;
- fit the other movable bush (H) into the upper end of the tool and drive it fully home against the upper bearing race;
- tighten the nut (L) and use a wrench to seat the outer races (C) fully in the steering head;
- leave the tool assembled until the steering head has cooled down to ensure that bearings are properly seated.
Insert the washer (13), sealing ring (18) (with the rim facing upwards) and inner ring (L) of bottom bearing (6) onto the
steering shaft after heating it for about 10 minutes to 120 °C.
Insert the tool code 88713.1072 into the steering pin. Push the inner ring (L) on the sealing ring (18), manually pushing
for at least 10-15 seconds.
Lubricate the inner bearing race (L) with the recommended grease.
Fit the ball race (M) on the steering shaft with the smaller diameter of the cage facing upwards and grease the ball race.
Insert the steering shaft in steering head and push it in until it is axially seated.
Fit the bottom yoke assembly to frame.
Grease the ball race (B) and fit it to frame top outer race (C).
Fit the inner ring (A) of the upper bearing (5) to the steering head, with the larger diameter side of the race facing
upwards.
Install the sealing ring (8) with the flat side facing upwards.
Grease the nut (12).

Tighten the steering shaft nut (12) by hand until it seats against the sealing ring (8).
Fit service bush no. 88713.1058 to the steering shaft nut (12) and fit the torque wrench to the bush.
Tighten the adjuster ring nut (12) to a torque of 30 Nm ±5% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Fit the steering head (2) on the steering head nut (12), aligning the fork leg bores with the corresponding bores on the
bottom yoke. Relocate the fork legs as described in Section 7 - 10,.1 Refitting the front forks.
Grease the screw (3).
Tighten the screw (3) on the steering head to a torque of 24 Nm ±5% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Refit the hose clips (27) on the steering head, starting the screws (24) in their threads with the washers (25).
Place the hose clips (27) onto the non-rotating tabs (M) and tighten the screws (24) to a torque of 8 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 -
Note
In the “ABS“ version the hose clip marked with an arrow is not present.

Refit the fork legs 7 - 10.1, Refitting the front forks
Reassembling the handlebar on the 7 - 8, Refitting the handlebar
steering head
Refit the front wheel 7 - 1, Refitting the front wheel
Refit the front mudguard 5 - 4, Refitting the rear mudguard
Refit the headlight 6 - 4, Renewal of the headlight
Refit the headlight fairing 5 - 1, Refit the headlight fairing
Rear shock absorber assembly
12 Rear
- shock absorber assembly
1 Shock absorber
2 Screw
3 Shock absorber mounting
4 Nut
5 Screw
6 Nut
796 REAR SUSPENSION

796 ABS REAR SUSPENSION
Important
Rear suspension system

The rear suspension system uses a hydraulic monoshock absorber (1) with rebound and spring preload adjustment.
The shock absorber is pivot-mounted to the swingarm at the lower end and to the rear subframe frame at the upper end.
This system gives the motorcycle excellent stability.
To adjust the rear shock absorber refer to Sect. 4 - 3, Adjusting the rear shock absorber.
Removal of the rear shock absorber

To remove the rear shock absorber from the vehicle, undo the nut (6) and screw (5).
Overhauling the rear shock absorber

Before dismantling the shock absorber, measure the spring preload length (L). The same length must be restored on re-
assembly.
Disassembly of the rear shock absorber

Remove the shock absorber mounting (3) while holding the screw (2) and unscrewing the nut (4).
Slacken off lock nut (A) and spring adjuster nut (B) with a pin wrench or special tool, and remove the spring.
Visually inspect the shock absorber for oil leaks and other problems.
Renew the shock absorber if necessary.
Reassembly of the rear shock absorber

Fit the spring into its seat in the shock absorber with the tapered end towards the lower mounting.
Screw in the spring adjuster nut (B) to obtain the previously measured length (L).
Note
One full turn of the adjuster nut changes the length of the spring by 1.5 mm.
Tighten down the lock nut (A) against the adjuster (B).
Lubricate the thread and underside of the head of the screw (2) and the contact face of the nut (4) with the specific
grease.
Refit the shock absorber mounting (3) inserting the screw (2) and screwing on the nut (4).
Note
Insert the screw (2) from the side on which the adjuster screw (C) is located.
Tighten the nut (4) to a torque of 42 Nm ±5% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings) while holding the screw (2).
Refitting the rear shock absorber

Lubricate the thread and underside of the head of the shock absorber screw.
Insert the upper end of the shock absorber in the hole in the rear subframe and fit the nut (6).
Orientate the rear shock absorber with the preload adjuster screw (C) as shown in the photo.
Install the lower end of the shock absorber in the swingarm.

Grease the thread, underside and sliding surface of the lower retaining screw (5) and insert it in the swingarm from the
inside.
Tighten the screw (5) and the nut to a torque of 42 Nm ±5% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Rear swingarm
13 Rear
- swingarm
1 Swingarm pivot
2 Pin
3 Screw
4 Rear swingarm
5 Banjo bolt
6 Washer
7 Upper drive chain slider
8 Lower drive chain slider
9 Screw
10 Circlip
11 Vibration damper
12 Lower protection
13 Upper protection
14 Washer
15 O-ring
16 Calliper mounting bracket
17 Eccentric hub
18 Spacer
19 Circlip
20 Nut
21 Screw
22 Shim washer
23 Plug
24 Screw
25 Guide
26 Rear brake disc
27 Rear wheel shaft
28 Rear mudguard
29 Screw
30 Phonic wheel*
31 Screw*
Rear swingarm
32 Pin
33 Screw
34 Screw
35 Rubber block*
36 Hose clip*
37 Spacer*
38 Hose clip*
39 Rubber block*
40 Spacer*
796 REAR WHEEL AXLE

796 SWINGARM
796 ABS REAR WHEEL AXLE
796 ABS SWINGARM
Important
Note
* The marked parts are present only in the “ABS“ version.
Removal of the rear wheel eccentric hub and rear wheel shaft
Before removing the eccentric hub, you must first remove the parts listed below.

Remove the rear sprocket 7 - 14, Replacing of the rear
sprocket
Remove the rear brake calliper (A) by unscrewing the two screws (B).
Slacken off the screws (3).

Withdraw the spacer (18) on the chain side and withdraw the wheel shaft (27) complete with brake disc (26) from the
opposite side.
Remove the circlip (19) on the wheel side of the eccentric hub.
Rear swingarm
Loosen screws (24) and take the speed sensor cable (C) off the swingarm.
Remove the washer (14) and the calliper mounting bracket (16) with the two O-rings (15).
Remove the other washer (14).
Withdraw the eccentric hub (17) from the chain side of the swingarm.
Note
The rear hub is a component particularly critical to the dynamic safety of the motorcycle. under no circumstances may the
internal components of the hub be serviced or repaired. The hub may be ordered as a complete assembly, spare part
No. 756.2.006.1A.
Removal of the rear brake disc

Unscrew the four screws (31) and remove the phonic wheel (30).
Rear swingarm
Undo and remove the four fixing screws (34) of the brake disc to the wheel shaft and remove the rear brake disc (26).
If they are to be renewed, undo the screws (33) from the wheel shaft (27) and remove the locating pins (32).
The brake disc must be perfectly clean, with no rust, oil, grease or other dirt and no deep scoring.
To check the wear limit of the brake disc refer to Sect. 3 - 1.1, Hydraulic brakes.
Refitting the rear brake disc

Position the brake disc (26) with the screw head seats (D) upward, as shown in the figure.
Reassemble the rear brake disc (26) tightening the screws (34) to a torque of 25 Nm ±5% and (33) to a torque of 5 Nm
±10% (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Fit the phonic wheel (30) and fasten it by tightening the screws (31) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque
settings).
Rear swingarm
Refitting the rear wheel eccentric hub and rear wheel shaft
If the calliper bracket locating pin (2) was removed during disassembly, apply the recommended threadlocker upon
reassembly, fit it on the swinging arm and tighten to a torque of 33 Nm ±5% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Before refitting, apply the recommended grease on the seat of the eccentric hub (17) on the calliper mounting bracket
(16) on which the rings (15), also greased, will be installed.
Fit the eccentric hub (17) fully home in its housing on swinging arm.
Rear swingarm
Fit the first washer (14) on the eccentric hub.
Position the calliper mounting bracket (16) setting it as shown in the figure.
Refit the other washer (14) and tighten the calliper mounting bracket (16) after installing circlip (19) in its groove (E) on
hub, and setting it with its cutting edge outward.
Smear screws (3) with recommended grease and do them finger-tight without fully tightening.
Turn the eccentric hub (17) taking the horizontal axis (L) of hub hole (F) above the horizontal axis (G) of hub seat and at
any rate until achieving the correct centre distance between hub hole (F) and swingarm pivot hole (H), as shown.
Rear swingarm
Evenly apply the recommended grease to the thread (M) of the pin (27).
Fit the rear wheel shaft (27) to hub fully home.

Fit the inner bush (18) on wheel shaft (27), and position it so as the taper end is facing the shaft, as shown, then tighten
the screws (3) to a torque of 31 Nm ±5% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings) according to a 1-2-1 sequence.
Route the speed sensor cable inside the two hose clips (25).
Smear the thread of the two screws (24) with recommended threadlocker and fit two washers (N) in-between.
Fasten hose clips (25) to swing arm, setting them as illustrated in the figure and then tighten the screws (24) to a torque
of 1 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Rear swingarm
Fit the rear brake calliper (A) over the brake disc, aligning it with the holes in the calliper mounting bracket. Grease the
threads and undersides of the heads of the screws (B). Tighten the screws (B) to a torque of 25 Nm ±5% (Sect. 3 - 3,

Refit the rear sprocket 7 - 14, Refitting the rear sprocket
Removal of the swingarm

Before removing the parts in question, you must first carry out the following operations:

Remove the rear mudguard 5 - 4, Removing the rear mudguard
Remove the rear sprocket 7 - 14, Replacing of the rear
sprocket
Remove the shock absorber from 7 - 12, Removal of the rear shock
swinging arm absorber
Remove the footrests 7 - 15, Removal of the footrest
brackets
Rear swingarm
Remove the rear wheel eccentric hub as described in chapter “Removal of the rear wheel eccentric hub and rear wheel
shaft” of this section.
Free the rear brake hose and the speed sensor wiring from the lower chain slider (8) and from the upper protection (13)
and lower protection (12) by unscrewing the screws (9).
Note
In the ABS version recover the hose clip (36) and the spacer (37).
Disconnect the speed sensor wiring connector (A) from the main wiring loom.
You can check the play in the swingarm bearings while the swingarm (4) still installed on the motorcycle frame
Grasp the rear of the swingarm (4) and try to move it in the four directions shown by the arrows.
Rear swingarm
Any abnormal movement is a sign of worn bearings that could cause instability when riding.
To check the free play of the support bearings, refer to Sect. 7 - 1, Overhauling the front wheel bearings.
Once the play in the swingarm bearings has been checked, the swingarm (4) may be removed from the motorcycle.
Undo and remove the screws (9) to remove the upper chain slider (7) from the swingarm (4).
Hold nut (16) and tighten the screw (15) on swingarm pivot right-hand side.
Remove the swingarm pivot (1) using a suitable tool, keeping the shimming washers (22) on either side of the swingarm.
Rear swingarm
Inspecting the swingarm pivot

Measure the swingarm pivot shaft (1) runout using a dial gauge:
- place the pivot shaft (1) on two reference blocks of the same size;
- rotate the shaft and move the gauge horizontally;

- read off the runout.
Service limit: (0.3 mm) (Sect. 3 - 1.1, Rear wheel).
Renew the pivot shaft when distortion exceeds the specified limit or if cracked or otherwise damaged.
Checking swingarm end float

The shim thickness (22) is to be determined on refitting the swingarm.
Check the end float as follows:
- insert a 1.8 mm shim (22) on either side of the engine;
- hold the left arm of swingarm (8) against the engine and measure the clearance on the other side of engine using a
feeler gauge or calibrated shims.
Rear swingarm
The maximum permissible end float is 0.1 mm.

When a 0.10 mm feeler gauge or shim can only be inserted with difficulty, there is no need to install any further shims.
Otherwise, use the two available shim sizes (0.20 mm and 0.10 mm) to obtain the specified end float.
Example:
Measured end float Shims on left-hand side. Shims on right-hand side

0.10 - 1 x 0.10 mm
0.20 1 x 0.10 mm 1 x 0.10 mm
0.50 1 x 0.20 mm 1 x 0.20 mm+
1 x 0.1 mm
Important
The thicker of the two shim packs must always be installed on the right-hand side of the swingarm.
The thinnest shim should always be installed so that it is contact with the swingarm.
NEVER install 0.1 mm shims on the left-hands side.
The left-hand side shim pack shall be max. 2 mm thick (1.8+0.2 max.).
Side-to-side movement of the rear end of the swingarm must be below 1 mm.
Refitting the swingarm

Smear grease on either side of shim (22) selected when checking the end float (see paragraph “Checking swingarm end
float” in this section). Fit swingarm to engine with the selected shim (22) on the right-hand side.
Fit shaft (1) (duly greased) on the left-hand side and insert it by half its length.
Push the left arm of swingarm against engine and fit between the right arm and the engine the shim thickness (22)
determined after measuring the end float.
Fully fit shaft (1), paying attention not to damage shims (22).
Tighten the screw (15) to a torque of 18 Nm ±5% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings), while holding the nut (16).
Rear swingarm
Refit the upper chain slider (7) to the swingarm starting the screws (9) in their thread.
Tighten the screws (9) to a torque of 5 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings) in the mentioned sequence.
Fasten the rear brake hose and the speed sensor wiring to swingarm (4) installing the lower chain slider (8), the upper
protection (13) and lower protection (12), and starting the screws (9) in their thread.
Tighten the screws (9) to a torque of 5 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings) in the mentioned sequence.
Rear swingarm
Note
In the ABS version place the hose clip (36) and the spacer (37) as shown in the figure.
Note
In the ABS version make sure that the speed sensor cable (A) is placed to the “right“ of the rib present inside the chain
slider (8) or (13), as shown in the figure.
Connect the speed sensor wiring connector (A) to the main wiring loom.
Rear swingarm

Refit the footrests 7 - 15, Refitting the footrest
brackets
Refit the shock absorber to 7 - 12, Refitting the rear shock
swinging arm absorber
Refit the rear sprocket 7 - 14, Refitting the rear sprocket
Refit the rear mudguard 5 - 4, Refitting the rear mudguard
Final drive
14 Final
- drive
1 Screw
2 Sprocket stop plate
3 Front sprocket
4 Chain
5 Screw
6 Front sprocket cover
7 Rear sprocket (Z=39)
8 Nut
9 Washer
10 Nut
11 Rear sprocket flange
12 Cush drive bush
13 Bush
14 Bush
15 Spacer
16 Chain joint
17 Shim washer
18 Circlip
19 Washer
796 GEARBOX
796 REAR WHEEL AXLE
796 ABS GEARBOX
796 ABS REAR WHEEL AXLE
Important
Final drive
Inspecting the final drive

To check the wear of the final drive, visually check the pinion (3) and sprocket (7). If the teeth are found to worn as
shown in the figure (dotted line), the sprocket must be renewed.
To check the chain (4), keep the chain taut and measure 16 links.
If the length (L) is greater than 256.5 mm, the chain should be replaced.
Important
The sprocket (7), engine pinion (3) and chain (4) must all be replaced together as a set.
Removing of the front sprocket

Undo the screws (5) and remove the sprocket cover (6).
Loosen the chain (Sect. 4 - 3, Adjusting the chain tension).
Final drive
Remove the chain with the tool code 88713.1344.

The tool is composed of a holder (A), punch (B), body (C) and two wrenches (D) and (E).
Fit the link to be opened into the holder (A).
Fit a punch (B) into the body (C) and manually unscrew the screw until the punch no longer protrudes.
Fit the holder (A) and link into the body (C).
Manually turn the screw (F) on body (C) so that the punch (B) locates against the pin, taking care that they are aligned
with each other.
Fit hex wrench (D) into the hexagonal part of the body (C) and wrench (E) onto the bolt.
Turn the bolt (F) clockwise to push out the pin.
Remove the chain.
Engage a low gear and loosen the two screws (1) on the sprocket stop plate (2).
Remove the plate (2) from the gearbox secondary shaft.
Slide the engine sprocket (3) together with the chain (4) from the gearbox secondary shaft and then remove the chain (4)
from the sprocket.
Final drive
Refitting the front sprocket

Check that the splines of the gearbox secondary shaft and the sprocket are in perfect condition.
Hook the chain (4) onto the sprocket (3).
Fit the sprocket on the gearbox secondary shaft (G), as shown in the figure, and push it past the groove (H).
Insert the stop plate (2) on the gearbox secondary shaft (G) and turn it inward past the groove (H) until the plate (2)
holes coincide with the threaded holes on the sprocket (3): position the retaining plate with the rounded edge facing the
sprocket.
Apply threadlocker to the threads of the screws (1).
Engage first gear.
Important
Perform the tensioning as described in Sect. 4 - 3, Adjusting the chain tension.
Fit the chain and close it using the tool with code 88713.1344 that was used to open the chain.
The tool is composed of a holder (A), punch (B), body (C) and two wrenches (D) and (E) and link plate holder (F).
Connect the two halves of the chain with the external link and manually fit the plate onto the pins.
Warning
Lubricate the pins abundantly; try to avoid touching them with your hands.
Fit the holder (A) onto the external link.

Fit the punch (B) into the body (C) and the plate holder (F).
Fit the body (C) onto the holder (A) which holds the chain in position.
Manually turn the bolt (L) until the plate holder (F) is seated against the plate itself.
Use wrenches (D) and (E) to turn the bolt (L) clockwise until the chain pin is in contact with the holder (F).
Remove the holder (A) from the tool.
Manually turn the bolt (L) until the punch (B) locates against the pin, taking care that they are aligned with each other.
Final drive
Use wrenches (D) and (E) to turn the bolt clockwise until the punch (B) is seated against the chain plate.
To complete reassembly, repeat the entire procedure with the second pin.
Warning
Carefully check the two pins: the figure shows the correct result of the procedure.
Adjust the chain tension (Sect. 4 - 3, Adjusting the chain tension).

Place the sprocket cover (6) tightening the screws (5) to a torque of 6 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Replacing of the rear sprocket

Remove the circlip (18) from the nut (8).

Restrain the wheel shaft against rotation and, using a socket wrench, loosen the nut (B).
Final drive
Fully unscrew the nut (8) and remove the washer (9) and the flange (11) with the sprocket (7).
Recover the spacer with collar (15).
Using a mallet, tap the sprocket flange (11) with the cush drive bushes (12) off the sprocket (7).
Refitting the rear sprocket

Check the cush drive bushes (12) for signs of wear and, if necessary, remove from the sprocket flange and renew them.
If it is necessary to remove the cush drive bushes (12), grease all the coupling surfaces and the undersides of the fixing
nuts (10) of the cush drive bushes (12) with the recommended grease.
Check for wear following the instructions given at the beginning of this section.
Final drive
To refit nut (8) and clip (18) retaining the rear sprocket flange, follow the same specifications given for the wheel nut, in
Sect. 7 - 2, Refitting the rear wheel.

Washing the chain

Chains with O-rings must be washed in oil, diesel fuel or paraffin (kerosene).
Do not use fuel, trichloroethylene or other solvents which will damage the rubber O-rings. For the same reason use only
sprays specifically formulated for use with O-ring chains.
Lubricating the chain

O-ring chains have sealed, life-lubed link studs and bushes. However, these chains need lubricating at regular intervals to
protect metal parts of the chain and the O-rings.
Lubrication also serves to keep the O-rings soft and pliable to ensure the maximum sealing efficiency.
Using a brush, apply a thin protective layer of high-density gearbox oil along the entire length of the chain both inside and
outside (Sect. 3 - 2, Fuel, lubricants and other fluids).
Footrest brackets
15 Footrest
- brackets
1 Vibration damper
2 Washer
3 Screw
4 Pin
5 Ring
6 Spring
7 Right front footrest
8 Right footrest bracket
9 Ball
10 Plate
11 Screw
12 Spring
13 Right rear footrest
14 Left front footrest
15 Left footrest bracket
16 Left rear footrest
17 Washer
18 Screw
19 Vibration damper
20 Circlip
796 GEARCHANGE LEVER - FOOTREST

796 SWINGARM
796 ABS GEARCHANGE LEVER - FOOTREST
796 ABS SWINGARM
Important
Footrest brackets
Removal of the footrest brackets

The following removal operations apply to both left and right footrests.
To remove the right-hand footrest, unscrew the screws (A) while holding the nut (B) and remove the rear brake fluid
reservoir (C).
Before removing the left footrest bracket, unscrew the screw (D) securing the gearchange lever to the engine, but leave
the gearchange assembly attached to the bracket.
Unscrew the upper two screws (3) securing the bracket to the swingarm.
Recover the washers (17) located between the bracket and the frame.
Unscrew the lower screws (11) and (18) securing the LH footrest bracket (15) to the crankcase, recovering the two
washers (2).
Remove the brake master cylinder (E) by unscrewing the two screws (F): slide the brake master cylinder (E) off the
pushrod (G).
Disconnect the rear brake sensor (H) from the main wiring harness.
Footrest brackets
Remove the RH footrest bracket assembly (8).

To separate the rear RH footrest (13) from the footrest bracket (8), remove the circlip (5) and drive out the pin (4) to
release the footrest (13), the plates (10), the ball (9) and the spring (12).
To separate the front RH footrest (7) from the bracket (8), remove the circlip (5) and drive out the pin (4) to release the
footrest (7) and the spring (6).
Footrest brackets
The procedure is the same for the LH footrest.
Note
The footrest may also be removed with the footrest bracket installed on the motorcycle.
Refitting the footrest brackets

The refitting operations described below apply to both footrest brackets.
To reassemble the front RH footrest (7), locate the spring (6) between the footrest lugs and attach it to the footrest
bracket, inserting the straight end of the spring in the hole in the bracket.
Position the front footrest (7) in its seat.
Grease the pin (4) and insert it from the top, securing it on the other side with the circlip (5).
Footrest brackets
Locate the spring (12), the plates (10), the ball (9) and RH rear footrest (13) between the lugs on the RH footrest bracket
(8).
Note
Drilled plate (10) shall be installed with hole countersink (L) facing the rear footrest.
Footrest brackets
Grease the pin (4) and insert it from the top, securing it on the other side with the circlip (5).
Check the condition of the rubber bushes (1) installed on the footrest bracket.
If they need to be renewed, orientate them as shown in the figure.
Footrest brackets
Smear the seats (N) of screws (11) and (18) with lubricant.
Locate them in correspondence with the threaded holes in the frame and the crankcase.
Important
When refitting the LH footrest bracket (15), position the washers (2) in correspondence with the fixings on the engine
crankcase.
Footrest brackets
Refit the brake master cylinder (E) tightening the screws (F) to a torque of 23 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque
settings). Position the rear brake sensor (H) of main wiring harness onto plate (8) with copper washer (M) in-between.
Insert the rear brake pushrod (G) in the rear brake master cylinder (E).
Fix the footrest brackets (8) and (15) to the swingarm with the screws (3), suitably lubricated, with the washers (17),
and to the engine with screws (11) and (18). Tighten the screws (3) to a torque of 55 Nm ±5% and the screws (11) and
(18) to a torque of 36 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings) in the mentioned sequence.
Footrest brackets
Fix the gearbox control unit to the crankcase, applying threadlocker to the screw (D) and tightening it to a torque of 10
Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Refit rear brake reservoir (C) and tighten the screw (A) to a torque of 2 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Stands
16 Stands
-
1 Side stand
2 Screw
3 Support plate
4 Screw
5 Switch
6 Inner spring
7 Spring assembly
8 Plate
9 Pivot screw
10 Nut
796 STANDS
796 ABS STANDS
Important
Removing of the side stand

Disconnect the wiring connector (5) of the side stand switch (1) from the main wiring harness.
Stands
Loosen the screw (B) and release the LH footrest bracket (C) from the engine block.
Unscrew and remove the screw (A) securing the LH footrest bracket (C) to the engine.
Unscrew the screw (2) securing the side stand bracket (3) to the engine and remove the complete side stand assembly.
Disassembly of the side stand

Unscrew the retaining screw (4) and remove the side stand switch (5).
Release the side stand springs (6) and (7) from the connecting plate (8) of the side stand bracket (3) and remove them.
Unscrew the pivot screw (9) securing the side stand to the bracket and remove the side stand (1) and the nut (10).
Inspecting the side stand

Fit the side stand leg to the bracket and check that there is no excessive clearance. Ensure that the ends of the side stand
are not bent with respect to the shank. A side stand which shows signs of cracking must be renewed immediately.
To check the switch (5) refer to Sect. 6 - 6, Checking protection and safety device components.
Reassembling of the side stand
Stands
Grease the side stand leg (1) and fit it to the bracket (3). Secure it with the pivot screw (9) and the nut (10). Tighten the
nut (11) to a torque of 20 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Position the side stand return springs (6) and (7) and attach them to plate (8) and to the stand (1).
Set switch (5) to stand (1) by inserting sensor pin (D) into the hole (E) and making sure pin (F) matches with groove (G)
on sensor.
Fit the retaining screw (4) and tighten it to a torque of 5 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Refitting the side stand

Locate the side stand bracket (3) between the engine and the LH footrest bracket (C) and fit the screw (2).
To place the stand switch wiring refer to the tables (Sect. 6 - 1, Routing of wiring on frame).
Fit the screw (A) in the footrest bracket (C). Tighten the screws (2), (A) and (B) to a torque of 36 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3,
Frame torque settings), following the indicated sequence.
Connect the connector (5) of the side stand switch to the main wiring harness.
Stands
Frame inspection
17 Frame
- inspection
1 Frame
2 Clamp
3 Nut
4 Clearance adjuster
5 Nut
6 Banjo bolt
7 Rear subframe (right)
8 Plate
9 Screw
10 Rear subframe (left)
11 Nut
12 Screw
13 Pin
14 Special nut
15 Bracket
16 Spacer
18 Screw
19 Hose clip
20 Key
21 Screw
22 Spacer
23 Rubber pad
796 FRAME
796 ABS FRAME
Important
Frame inspection
Disassembly of structural components and the frame

Before carrying out dimensional checks on the frame, you must remove all the superstructures fitted, referring to the
removal procedures outlined in the sections of this manual.
The flow chart below illustrates the logical sequence in which the parts are to be removed from the motorcycle and gives
a reference to the section of the manual in which the removal procedure is described.
Frame inspection
Removal of the frame
Frame inspection
To separate the frame (1) from the rear subframe, unscrew the two special screws (6).
On the left-hand side of the motorcycle, restrain the pin (13) securing the front of the frame to the engine and unscrew
the nut (3) on the right-hand side.
Withdraw the front retaining pin (13) and remove the frame (1).
Secure the rear subframe to the engine block by inserting the pin (13).
Refitting the frame

Before refitting, check that the rubber mountings (A) are installed on the frame (1).
If the ring nuts (5) with the clearance adjusters (4) were removed, proceed as follows.
Grease the threads of the clearance adjusters (4) and the ring nuts (5) taking care not to get any grease on face (B) of
the clearance adjuster (4).
Tighten the clearance adjusters (4) onto ring nut (5) until flush with the side featuring flats, as shown below.
Tighten to a torque of 0.5 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings) from the outside the clearance adjusters (4)
with ring nuts (5) in the frame threaded bushings, until they protrude by about 2 mm on the inside.
Frame inspection
Loosen the clearance adjuster (4) with ring nut (5) until flush with the inner surface of frame bushes (C).
Withdraw the pin (13) from the engine block to release the rear subframe.
Apply the recommended grease to the threads of the pin (13) and of the nut (3).
Locate the frame (1) on the motorcycle and insert the pin (13) from the right-hand side.
Align the rear subframe and the frame (1), inserting the special screws (6) but without tightening at this stage.
Remove the special screws (6) and tighten the clearance adjusters (4) to a torque of 0.5 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame
torque settings).
Locate service tool no. 88713.3166 on the ring nut (5) and fit the torque wrench to the tool.
Hold the clearance adjusters (4) and tighten the ring nuts (5) to a torque of 100 Nm ±5% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque
settings).
Lubricate thread and underside of special screws (6), then start them on the frame, and tighten them to a torque of 60
Nm ±5% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Frame inspection
Removal of the rear subframe

Disconnect all the electrical parts connections from subframe (Sect. 6 - 1, Routing of wiring on frame), and remove the
silencers (Sect. 8 - 8, Removal of the exhaust system).
Remove the frame as specified in the previous paragraph “Removal of the frame”.
On the left-hand side of the motorcycle, restrain the pin (13) securing the rear of the subframe to the engine and
simultaneously unscrew the nut (3) on the right-hand side.
Withdraw the rear retaining pin (13) and remove the complete subframe assembly from the motorcycle.
Disassembly of the rear subframe

While holding the nuts (11), present only on the left-hand side of the rear subframe, unscrew the screws (12) and
remove the bracket (15).
Frame inspection
Remove the cable (A) of exhaust valve motor (B) as explained in Sect. 8 - 8, Removal of the exhaust system.
Unscrew the screws (9) securing the plate (8) and slide out the plate then separate the rear left-hand subframe from the
right-hand side one.
Checking the frame

Check the dimensions of the frame against the dimensions shown here to determine whether it needs to be renewed.
Important
Badly damaged frames cannot be repaired, they must be renewed. Any work carried out on the frame can give rise to
potential danger, infringing the requirements of EC directives concerning manufacturers' liability and general product
safety.
General dimensions (mm)
Frame inspection
Reassembly of the rear subframe

Check that the rubber mountings (A) are installed on the plate (8).
Locate the plate (8) on the LH subframe (10) and on the RH subframe (12) and insert the screws (9).
Tighten the screws (9) to the specified torque (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings), in the sequence: 1-2-3-4.
Connect the cable (A) of exhaust valve motor (B) as explained in Sect. 8 - 8, Refitting the exhaust system.
Frame inspection
Check that the rubber buffer (B), rubber bushes (17) and spacers (16) are installed on the bracket (15).
Refit the bracket (15) to the rear subframe with screws (12).
While holding the nuts (11), present only on the left-hand side, tighten the screws (12) to a torque of 22 Nm ±10%
(Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings) in the sequence below: 5-6-7-8.
Frame inspection
Refit the rear subframe to the crankcase (Sect. 9 - 1, Refitting the engine).
Reconnect all the electrical parts connectors on subframe (Sect. 6 - 1, Routing of wiring on frame), and refit the silencers
(Sect. 8 - 8, Removal of the exhaust system).
Refitting the rear subframe

Locate the complete rear subframe assembly on the engine, apply the recommended grease to the threads of the pin (13)
and the nut (3).
Tail light-number plate holder and locks
18 Tail
- light-number plate holder and locks
1 Splashguard
2 Tail light
3 Number plate holder
4 Right turn signal
5 Left turn signal
6 Plate
7 Screw
8 Screw
9 Washer
10 Screw
11 Bracket
12 nut
13 Reflector
14 Washer
16 Screw
17 Plate
18 Vibration damper
19 Banjo bolt
20 Screw
21 nut
22 Screw
24 Plate
25 Screw
26 Lock cable
27 Seat lock
28 Nut
29 Latch lever
30 Screw
31 Latch
796 NUMBER PLATE HOLDER - TAIL LIGHT

796 FRAME
796 ABS NUMBER PLATE HOLDER - TAIL LIGHT
796 ABS FRAME
Important
Removal of the tail light-protection-number plate holder assembly

Remove the tool tray 5 - 3, Removal of the tool tray
Remove the exhaust valve motor 8 - 8, Removal of the exhaust
system
Disconnect the rear wiring connector (A) from main wiring harness (Sect. 6 - 1, Routing of wiring on frame).
Unscrew the four screws (25) and slide the tail light - number plate holder assembly off the rear subframe, as shown in
the photo.
Unscrew and remove the screws (30).

While holding the special screws (19), unscrew the screws (10) and remove the plate (24) from the tail light -
number plate holder assembly: recover the washers (9).
Separate the number plate holder (3) from the spray guard (1) by unscrewing the screws (7).
Disconnect the tail light wiring connector (B) from the tail light (2).
Disconnect the connector for the rear right-hand turn indicator wiring (C) and rear left-hand turn indicator wiring (D)
from the main wiring harness.
Unscrew the screws (22) and remove the tail light (2); recover the quick-release fasteners (23).
Removal of the rear turn signals

The following operations refer to the left side of the motorcycle, but apply also to the right side.
Remove clamp (G) fastening the rear right-hand turn indicator wiring (F) and rear left-hand turn indicator wiring (E).
Working from the inside, unscrew and remove the retaining screw (8) and recover the plate (17).
Withdraw the turn signal from the outside, taking care not to damage the wiring.
Refitting the tail light-protection-number plate holder assembly
Refitting the rear turn signals

The following operations refer to the left side of the motorcycle, but apply also to the right side.
Insert wiring and left-hand turn indicator (5) into the mounting hole on number plate holder (3), positioned with the drain
slot (H) facing down, as shown below.
Note
The left-hand turn signal (5) can be identified through the indication “SX POST” (LH REAR) on the identification tag found
on its wiring.
Position the plate (17).

Apply prescribed threadlocker on the screw thread (8).
Fasten the right-hand turn indicator (8) starting screw in its thread, so that the slot on plate (7) perfectly matches the tab
on turn indicator, as shown in the figure.
Tighten the retaining screw (8) to a torque of 3 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Fit the tail light (2) to the number plate holder (3) and fit the screws (22).
Connect the rear turn indicator wiring connector to the right (C) and to the left (D) to the rear wiring and place them
inside the specific splashguard (1) housings.
Refit clamp (G) fastening the rear right-hand turn indicator wiring (F) and rear left-hand turn indicator wiring (E).
Note
Never fully tighten clamp (E), leave a slight gap allowing for the free sliding of the two cables, as shown.
Connect the tail light wiring connector (B) to the tail light (2).
Install the number plate holder (3) to the splashguard (1) then tighten the screws (7) to a torque of 3.5 Nm ±10%
Place the latch (31) beneath the plate (24), at the “lowest“ position with respect to the slots on the plate, as shown in the
figure.
Fit the screws (30) and tighten to a torque of 10 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Refit the plate (24) to the tail light - number plate holder assembly, securing it with the four screws (10) and washers (9).
While holding the special screws (19) tightening the screws (10) to a torque of 8 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque
settings).
Refit the tail light - number plate holder assembly to the rear subframe, inserting it as shown in the photo.
Fit and tighten the four screws (25) to a tightening torque of 22 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Connect the main wiring connector (A) to the main wiring harness (Sect. 6 - 1, Routing of wiring on frame).

Refit the exhaust valve motor 8 - 8, Refitting the exhaust system
Refit the tool tray 5 - 3, Refitting the tool tray
Removal of the seat release mechanism

Remove the tail light - number plate holder assembly from the rear subframe and the plate (24) as described in the
previous paragraph.
Separate the spray guard (1) from the number plate holder (3) by unscrewing the screws (7).
Remove the end fitting (A) and release the lock cable (26) from the latch lever (31).
Remove the end fitting (B) and release the lock cable (26) from the latch lever (29).
Unscrew the nut (28), remove the lever (29) and withdraw the seat lock (27).
Refitting the seat release mechanism

Fit the seat lock (27) in the housing in the spray guard (1), inserting the lugs (C) in the slots (D) as shown in the figure.
Fit the lock lever (29) inserting the lugs (C) in the slots (E) as shown in the figure.
Start the nut (28) in its thread onto seat lock (27) and tighten it to a torque 3 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque
settings).
Lay down the rear wiring (A) onto splashguard (1) as shown, routing it under the lock (27).
Lay down the lock cable (26) onto splashguard (1), as shown in the figure, insert it in its seat (F).
Refit the cable end fitting (B) in the lock lever (29) and end fitting (A) in the latch (31).
Refit the splashguard (1) on the number plate holder (3) tightening the screws (7) to a torque of 3.5 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 -
Refit the tail light - number plate holder assembly from the rear subframe and the plate (24) as described in the previous
paragraph.
Removal of the number plate holder

The Australia version features the gravel guard (32) with screws (33) and spacers (34), within the number plate holder
assembly.
Unscrew the screws (33) securing gravel guard (32) to splashguard (1) and recover the spacers (34).
Unscrew the screws (16) and remove the plate (6).
Note
On the USA version, the plate (6) has a different design and there is a bracket with side reflectors (13).
Refitting the number plate holder

For the Australia version, set gravel guard (32) between splashguard (1) and number plate holder (6), and fit spacers with
collar (34) in-between the two guards.
Apply the recommended threadlocker to the screws (33).
Fix the gravel guard (32) fitting and tightening the screws (33) to a torque of 5 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque
settings).
Refitting is the reverse of removal; in particular apply the recommended threadlocker to the screws (16).
Tighten the screws (16) to a torque of 5 Nm ± ±10% and the nuts (21) to a torque of 2 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame
torque settings).
2 - Fuel tank 3
Removal of the fuel tank 4
Removal of the fuel tank filler cap 7
Refitting the filler cap 7
Removal of the fuel tank flange 8
Refitting the fuel tank flange 9
Refitting the fuel tank 10
6 - Throttle body 19
Removal of the throttle body 20
Refitting the throttle body 25
7 - Air intake 31
Removal of the airbox 32
Removal of the oil breather valve 37
Refitting the oil breather valve 37
Refitting the airbox 38
8 - Exhaust system 44
Operating principle of the catalytic converter 46
Removal of the exhaust system 47
Refitting the exhaust system 52
10 - Evaporative emissions canister 58

Evaporative emissions canister system (USA versions only) 59
Removal of the evaporative emissions canister 60
Refitting the evaporative emissions canister 62
Fuel tank
2 -Fuel tank
1 Fuel tank
2 Filler cap
3 Screw
4 Hose
5 Y-fitting
6 Breather hose
7 Hose
8 Rubber pad
9 LH bracket
10 Banjo bolt
11 Rubber pad
12 RH bracket
13 Banjo bolt
14 Washer
15 Rubber pad
16 Guide
17 Screw
18 Fuel outlet hose
19 Fuel return hose
20 Cover
21 Nut
22 Banjo bolt
23 Flange
24 O-ring
25 Fuel filter
26 Clamps set
27 Thermistor
28 Screw
29 Quick-release fitting
30 Screw
31 Washer
32 Sealing washer
Fuel tank
33 Washer
34 Heat shield
35 Set of locks
796 FUEL TANK

796 FUEL SYSTEM
796 ABS FUEL TANK
796 ABS FUEL SYSTEM
Important
Removal of the fuel tank

Loosen screw (A) to remove hoses from cable grommet (B). Release tabs (C) from cover (D).
Remove the breather hose cover (E) (Sect. 9 - 8, Removal of the generator cover).
Withdraw the breather hose (6) from the cover (E).
Withdraw the hose (6) upwards, leaving it attached to the tank breather and drain hose unions.
Working on the right-hand side of the motorcycle, disconnect the wiring connector (F) of the fuel level sensor from the
main wiring harness, unscrew the screw (30) securing the side of the tank to the frame and recover the washer (31).
Fuel tank
Remove the screw (13) and recover the washer (14).
Release the fuel hoses (18) and (19) from the clips (16).
Detach the lambda sensor cable (G) from tank flange cover.
Fuel tank
Warning
Before removing the flange cover (20), make sure the tank (1) is empty and position a rag to collect any spilt fuel.
Raise the tank, remove the flange cover (20) by unscrewing the nuts (21) and disconnect the quick-release fittings (29)
from the flange.
Removal of the fuel tank filler cap

To remove the fuel filler cap assembly from the fuel tank proceed as follows.
Open the filler cap.
Unscrew the outer screws (3) securing the ring nut to the filler cap recess.
Remove hoses (4) and (7) from the filler cap assembly (2).
Remove the filler cap assembly (2).
Fuel tank
Refitting the filler cap

Position seal (32) in tank cap (2) as shown and reassemble following the removal procedure in the reverse sequence.
In particular tighten the screws (3) to a tightening torque of 3 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Removal of the fuel tank flange

Unscrew the screws (28) and (22) securing the fuel tank flange (23).
Remove the flange (23) from the tank.
Recover the O-ring (24).

Using the appropriate commercial tool, undo the clips (26) next to the fuel filter (25).
Remove the old filter from the connecting hoses and fit a new filter.
Before reassembly, carefully remove any deposits or scale from all parts.
Important
When installing the filter (25), position it so that the arrow on the external housing is pointing towards the flange.
Note
The flange is supplied as a spare part complete with the fuel pump and pressure regulator: the entire flange assembly
must be replaced in the event of malfunction.
Fuel tank
Refitting the fuel tank flange

Insert the flange (23) in its housing in the fuel tank.
Fit the four screws (28) with threadlocker and tighten them to a torque of 5 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque
settings).
Fit the two screws (22) with the recommended threadlocker with the side that presents the threadlocker applied toward
the flange and tighten them to a torque of 5 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Refitting the fuel tank

If the fuel tank has been disassembled into its component parts, reposition all the parts as shown in the exploded view.
In particular:
tighten the screws (10) to a torque of 8 Nm ±10% and the screws (17) to a torque of 5 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame
torque settings).
Fuel tank
Refit the tank by engaging pins (H) on mounting brackets (9) and (12) into their seats on the frame.
Smear the O-rings (L) installed on fuel hose couplings (29) with rubber lubricant.
While holding the tank in the raised position, connect the quick–release fittings (29) of the fuel outlet hose (18) and
return hose (19) to the flange:
fit the fuel outlet hose (18), orienting it as shown in the figure, inserting the fitting (29) in its union in the flange
(identified with the word “OUT”), until you feel a click;
fit the fuel return hose (19), orienting it as shown in the figure, inserting the fitting (29) in its union in the flange
(identified with the word “IN”), until you feel a click;
Attach the fuel hoses (18) and (19) to the clips (16).
Fuel tank
Refit the cover (20) and start the two nuts (21) onto the two screws (22) then tighten the nuts to a torque of 3 Nm
±10%
Note
When installing cover (20), ensure hoses (18) and (19) and wiring (M) on flange stay inside the cover jut (N).
Connect the fuel sensor (F) to the main wiring harness.
Route the lambda sensor cable (G) in the relevant rear tab available on the tank flange cover.
With the fuel tank lowered, the fuel pump connector (O) should rest on the vertical cylinder head, as shown.
Fuel tank
Secure the tank to the frame with the screw (30) and the washer (31).
Tighten the screw (30) to a torque of 10 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Secure the tank to the subframe with the screw (13) and the washer (14).
Tighten the screw (14) to a torque of 10 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings), using a 5 mm Allen wrench to
counterhold the threaded insert (H) located on the upper part of the tank.
Important
The threaded insert (H) is not present in the USA version.
Locate the breather/drain hose (6) on the motorcycle and refit the cover (E) on breather hoses (Sect. 9 - 8, Reassembly
of the generator cover).
Fuel tank
Lay hoses into retainers (C) of cover (D) and fasten retainers. Position the hoses into cable grommet (B) and tighten the
screw (A) to a torque of 10 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Positioning of the fuel tank breathe/drain hoses
Fuel tank
Fuel tank
Positions of the fuel hoses connecting the fuel tank to the throttle body
Fuel tank
Fuel tank
Throttle body
6 -Throttle body
1 Fuel system assembly

3 Clamp
4 Hose
5 Rubber pad
6 Heat shrink sleeve
8 Clamp
9 Screw
10 Injector
11 Intake manifold
12 Aluminium gasket
13 Screw
14 O-ring
15 Nut
16 Hose
17 Clamp
18 Washer
19 Union
20 Sealing washer
21 Pressure sensor
22 Hose
23 Sensor support
24 Washer
25 Screw
26 Throttle body assembly
27 Screw
28 Fuel feed hose
29 Fuel return hose
30 Connection hose
31 Stepper motor
32 Screw
Throttle body
33 Hose
796 INTAKE MANIFOLDS

796 AIR INTAKE - OIL BREATHER
796 ABS INTAKE MANIFOLDS
796 ABS AIR INTAKE - OIL BREATHER
Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but can be found in the
exploded view diagram.
Removal of the throttle body

fairings
unit
Remove the battery 6 - 2, Removal of the battery
control unit
cable
Disconnect the throttle cable 7 - 8.1, Removal of the throttle
twistgrip
Disconnect the connector (A) connecting the main wiring harness to the throttle position sensor (2).
Disconnect the wiring connector (B) connecting the main wiring harness to the air temperature sensor (7).
Disconnect the connector (C) connecting the main wiring loom to the stepper motor (31).
Throttle body
Disconnect the air pressure sensor (21) from the throttle body and detach connector (D) from the main wiring harness.
Release the clip clamp (E) and remove the delivery and return hoses from the frame.
Loosen the clips (17) securing the throttle body to the intake manifolds (11).
Throttle body
Disconnect the wiring connectors (F) connecting the main wiring loom to the injectors (10).
Remove the throttle body assembly (26) from the motorcycle.

If necessary, slacken off the clamps (3) securing the throttle body to the hoses (4) and (16) and remove the hoses.
Undo the two screws (27) to remove the throttle position sensor (2) from the throttle body.
Removal of the fuel injectors

Undo the injector retaining clips (8) with the fuel feed hose (28), fuel return hose (29) and injector connection hose (30).
Undo the screws (25) to remove the injectors from the throttle body, recovering the washers (24).
Throttle body
Refitting the injectors

Lubricate the injector O-rings.
Refit on injectors: fuel feed hose (28), fuel return hose (19) and injector connection hose (30), then tighten them using
ties (8).
Locate the washers (24) and tighten the screws (25).
If the heat shrink sleeve (6) is to be renewed, slide it over hoses (28) and (29) and seat tight against the clamp (8), as
shown in the photo.
Set the hot air blower to 150 °C. While holding the pipes curved, apply heat to “shrink” the sleeve, holding the blower
approximately 15 mm from the sleeve. Pass the hot air blower along the sleeve several times (moving continuously from
one end to the other) avoiding heating the same point for a prolonged time.
Important
The sleeve should only be heated for the timer it takes to “shrink”; do not carry on heating it beyond this point.
Removal of the stepper motor

The stepper motor (31) is installed in the central part of the throttle body:
To remove it, unscrew the two screws (32) and disconnect the hoses (G) from the throttle body.
Refer to Section 6 - 12, Stepper motor for details on its operation.
Throttle body
Refitting the stepper motor

Connect the hoses (G) to the throttle body.
Locate the stepper motor (31) with its support on the throttle body, fitting the screws (32).
Tighten the screws (32).
Refitting the throttle body

If the hoses (4) and (16) were removed, reconnect them to the throttle body with the clamps (3), positioning the hoses
and clamps as shown in the figure.
Note
The air temperature sensor (7) is installed on the vertical cylinder manifold (16); refer to Sect. 6 - 12, Air pressure sensor
for its installation.
Throttle body
Warning
The hose (16) which mounts the air temperature sensor (17) should be installed on the same side of the throttle body as
the position sensor (2).
Note
The end of the hose with the smaller diameter is to be connected to the throttle body.
Take couplings fully home on throttle body, ensuring the mould parting lines (M) of couplings match with the right-hand
edge of throttle body sockets (H), as shown below.
Tighten the clamps to a torque of 1.5 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings), complying with the positioning
shown in the figure and ensuring they do not pop out of their seats (L) on couplings.
Throttle body
Locate the throttle body assembly (26) on the motorcycle.

Fit the clamps (17) on the intake manifolds (11) and orient them as shown in the photos.
Orient the throttle body (26) with the pulley facing the right-hand side (relative to the direction of travel) and insert it
fully into the intake manifolds.
Tighten the clamps (17) to a torque of 1.5 Nm ±10%) (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings), making sure that they do not
protrude beyond the edges of the manifolds.
Reconnect the wiring connectors (F) to connect the main wiring loom to the injectors (10).
Throttle body
Install the air pressure sensor (21) to the throttle body, fit pressure sensor hoses to manifold and connect connector (D)
to main wiring harness.
Connect the connector (C) connecting the main wiring loom to the stepper motor (31).
Connect the wiring connector (B) connecting the main wiring harness to the air temperature sensor (7).
Connect the connector (A) connecting the main wiring harness to the throttle position sensor (2).
Throttle body
Fasten the delivery and return hoses to the frame by means of the clip clamp (E).

Connect the throttle cable 7 - 8.1, Refitting the throttle
twistgrip
cable
control unit
fairings
Positioning of the hoses on throttle body
Throttle body
Throttle body
Air intake
7 -Air intake
1 Clamp
2 Oil breather hose
3 Support (ABS)
4 Adapter
5 Clamp
6 Screw
7 Nut
8 Airbox cover
9 Air filter element
10 Support
11 Clamp
12 Hose
13 Screw
14 Breather valve
15 O-ring
16 Screw
17 Spacer
18 Airbox
19 Rubber pad
20 Hose
21 Clamp
22 Clamp
23 Lower hose guide (ABS)
24 Rubber pad
25 Clamp
26 Lower colour protection
27 Screw
28 Screw
29 Upper colour protection
30 Upper hose guide (ABS)
31 Screw
Air intake
796 CRANKCASE HALVES

796 ABS CRANKCASE HALVES
Important
Removal of the airbox

fairings
unit
control unit
cable
Detach the oil breather pipe (2) and the stepper motor tube (20) by slackening ties (1) and (5).
In the ABS version loosen the screws (31), to remove the hose guide (3) and collect the spacers (4).
Air intake
Detach the tabs (B) and release the drain hose (12) from the cover (A) on the generator cover (Sect. 9 - 8, Removal of
the generator cover).
Disconnect the cables (C) of horizontal cylinder coil (D) and the vertical cylinder coil (E) from the respective spark plugs.
Disconnect the coil connectors (F) from main wiring harness (Sect. 6 - 1, Routing of wiring on frame).
Loosen the clamps (G) of the couplings (H).
Air intake
Undo the screws (16), recover the spacers (17) and withdraw the airbox vertically upwards, taking care to recover the
rubbers (19).
Air intake
Disassembly of the airbox

Loosen the hose clamps (11) and (1) and remove the drain hose (12) and the oil breather hose (2) from the airbox.
Remove the following electrical components

A Control unit (Sect. 6 - 12, Electronic Control Unit (ECU));
B Solenoid starter (Sect. 6 - 3, Starter contactor);
C Battery support (Sect. 6 - 2, Battery support);
D Coils (Sect. 6 - 12, Coil).
Note
Remove the air filter as described in Sect. 4 - 3, Changing and cleaning the air filters.
Reassembly of the airbox

Check the presence of the rubber block (19) on the airbox.
If removed, fit clamp (1) onto drain hose (2).

Install the drain hose (2) to the airbox, and set it so as hose slot (A) corresponds to arrow (B) on airbox.
Air intake
For the remaining reassembly operations, reassemble following the removal procedure in the reverse sequence, and route
wiring as shown in Sect. 6 - 1, Routing of wiring on frame.
Removal of the oil breather valve

Undo the screw (13) and remove the oil breather valve (14) from the crankcase half.
Check the condition of O-rings (15) and renew them if necessary.
Refitting the oil breather valve

Lubricate the two O-rings (15) with engine oil.
Install the oil breather valve (14) in the hole on clutch-side casing aligning valve hole (L) with threaded hole (H) on casing
and starting screw (13).
Tighten the screw (13) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min 9 Nm - Max 11 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Air intake
Refitting the airbox

Check that the rubber bushes (19) are present on the airbox.
Check that clamps (G) are correctly positioned on intake manifolds (H), with the fixing screws oriented as shown in the
figure.
Locate the airbox assembly on the throttle body.

Fit and tighten the screws (16) with spacers (17) on the airbox, to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque
settings).
Air intake
Tighten the clamps (G) of the couplings to a torque of 1.5 Nm ± 10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Air intake
Connect the cables (C) of horizontal cylinder coil (D) and the vertical cylinder coil (E) from the respective spark plugs.
Connect the coil connectors (F) from main wiring harness (Sect. 6 - 1, Routing of wiring on frame).
In the ABS version refit the hose clip (3) to the vertical cylinder head cover and start the screws (31) in their thread with
the spacers (4).
Tighten the screws (31) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Place the oil breather hose (2) and the stepper motor tube (20) and tighten the clamp (1) and (5) to a torque of 1.5 Nm
± 10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Air intake
Fasten the drain hose (12) to frame using the clamps and under cover (A) on generator cover (Sect. 9 - 8, Refitting the
generator cover) then engage retainers (B).

cable
control unit
fairings
Positioning of the blow-by hose
Air intake
Positioning of the airbox drain hose
Air intake
Exhaust system
8 -Exhaust system
1 Exhaust gasket
2 Lambda sensor
3 Horizontal cylinder head exhaust pipe
4 Vertical cylinder head exhaust pipe
5 Centre exhaust pipe
6 Lower bracket
7 Right-hand silencer
8 Left-hand silencer
9 Nut
10 Spring
11 Screw
12 RH heat shield
13 Horizontal heat shield
15 Screw
16 Strap
17 Spacer
18 Plug
19 Sealing washer
20 Special nut
21 Right-hand bracket
22 Left-hand bracket
23 Bush
24 Rubber pad
25 Spacer
26 Screw
27 RH silencer support bracket
28 LH silencer support bracket
29 Screw
30 Screw
31 Nut
Exhaust system
33 LH heat shield
34 Washer
35 Guard
36 Cable
37 Exhaust valve motor
38 Washer
39 Clamp
40 Clamp
41 Spacer
42 Screw
43 Screw
44 Spacer
45 Circlip
46 Clip
47 Spacer
48 Washer
796 EXHAUST SYSTEM

796 ABS EXHAUST SYSTEM
Important
Operating principle of the catalytic converter

This model is fitted with “three-way” catalytic converters. Catalytic converters are fitted to the exhaust system in order to
eliminate the noxious substances found in exhaust fumes, namely CO (carbon monoxide), HC (unburnt hydrocarbons) and
NOx (nitric oxide). The catalytic converter has a special honeycomb support, coated with aluminium oxide, which creates
an irregular surface thus increasing the surface area exposed to exhaust gas. The aluminium oxide is coated with
activated substances that help to remove harmful components of exhaust emissions. These substances are usually
platinum and rhodium. Platinum allows the oxidation (combination with oxygen) of CO and HC. Rhodium allows the
reduction (combination with CO) of NOx contents. To ensure that CO and HC components can oxidise to form water and
carbon dioxide and that NOx contents can be reduced by forming nitrogen and carbon dioxide, there must be a precise
amount of oxygen in the exhaust gas. For this reason it is essential that the air-fuel mixture is correctly proportioned. This
result has been achieved thanks to the use of a sophisticated fuel system designed to meter the air-fuel mixture with
absolute precision.
The lambda sensor (Sect. 6 - 8) monitors the oxygen content of exhaust fumes and transmits the relative data
instantaneously to the ECU. The control unit (through injection) keeps the air-fuel ratio as close as possible to optimum
value (with a certain tolerance) in order to ensure top performance of the catalytic converters in the exhaust pipes. In
terms of emissions, this means achieving minimum hydrocarbon (HC) and carbon monoxide (CO) emissions as well as
minimum nitrogen oxide (NOX) emissions. The 3 way catalytic converters complete the exhaust fumes cleaning process by
converting residues of CO, HC and NOX in the exhaust gas, thus ensuring exhaust emissions comply with EURO 3
regulations.
How to ensure that the catalytic converter functions correctly

In order to function correctly, the catalytic converter must reach a temperature of around 800 °C and never fall below
300 °C. The indicated maximum temperature must not be exceeded, otherwise the catalytic converter could be
irreparably damaged. For this reason, it is essential that significant quantities of unburnt fuel do not accumulate in the
exhaust gas post-treatment element, since these would otherwise burn resulting in a sharp increase in temperature. This
is why the ignition-injection system should always be in perfect working order (misfiring is not acceptable). Moreover,
never push-start the motorcycle (with key and ENGINE STOP button set to ON). In this instance, if the engine does not
start, any unburnt fuel would enter the exhaust system and stay in the catalytic converters. Motorcycles fitted with
catalytic converters must be used exclusively with unleaded petrol. Otherwise the lead content of petrol would deposit on
the activated substances and limit their action against the harmful components of exhaust gas.
Removal of the exhaust system

Remove the RH footrest bracket 7 - 15, Removal of the footrest
brackets
Remove the retaining spring (10) of the LH silencer (8) from the centre exhaust pipe (5).
Exhaust system
While holding the nut (31), unscrew the retaining screw (30) and remove the LH silencer (8) from the motorcycle.
Recover the spacer (23) and the rubber bushes (24).
Remove the left-hand side heat shield (33) loosening screws (26), (42) and (43); recover the spacers (25), (41) and
(44) and the washers (34).
Follow the same procedure to remove the RH silencer (7).

Remove the protection (35), loosening the screw (42) and recovering the washers (34) and the spacer (25).
Exhaust system
Release the end fitting (A) of the cable (36) from the exhaust valve (B) and remove the circlip (45).
Remove the cable (36) from the exhaust valve (B).
Remove the clamps (39), (40) and disconnect the exhaust valve motor wiring (C).
Unscrew the bolts (15) and remove the exhaust valve motor (37) from the rear number plate holder.
Remove the clip (46) and the cable (36) from the exhaust valve motor (37), sliding off the end fitting (D) from its seat.
Exhaust system
Loosen the two nuts (20) and take central exhaust pipe (5) off the mounting bracket for tank and exhaust (E).
Disconnect the two lambda sensors (2) from the main wiring harness (Sect. 6 - 1, Routing of wiring on frame). Refer to
Section 6 - 12, Lambda sensor for details on lambda sensor.
Unscrew the screw (15) retaining the central exhaust pipe (5) to engine and remove the bottom plate (6).
Unscrew the clamp (16) and separate the centre exhaust pipe (5) from the horizontal cylinder exhaust pipe (3) and the
vertical cylinder exhaust pipe (4).
Exhaust system
Loosen and remove the nuts (9) securing the exhaust pipe flanges to the cylinder heads.
Remove the flanges from the cylinder heads.

Slide out horizontal exhaust pipe (3) from horizontal head; recover the gasket (1).
Remove the vertical exhaust pipe (4) from the vertical cylinder head, recovering the gasket (1).
Important
Block off the exhaust ports on the head to prevent foreign matter from entering the combustion chamber.
Loosen the screws (42) and remove the horizontal heat shield (13); recover the spacers (25) and the washers (34).
Exhaust system
Refitting the exhaust system

Renew the gaskets (1).
Refit the horizontal exhaust pipe (3) and the vertical exhaust pipe (4) on the cylinder heads, starting the nuts (9) in their
threads.
To tighten the nuts (9) execute the following operations.
Note
The text “right“ and “left“ refer to the direction of travel.
Tighten initially to a torque of 6 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings) in the following order:
- the right nut (9) of the vertical cylinder head exhaust flange,
- the right nut (9) of the horizontal cylinder head exhaust flange,
- the left nut (9) of the horizontal cylinder head exhaust flange,
- the left nut (9) of the vertical cylinder head exhaust flange.
Tighten to a torque of 24 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings) in the following order:
- the right nut (9) of the horizontal cylinder head exhaust flange,
- the left nut (9) of the horizontal cylinder head exhaust flange,
- the left nut (9) of the vertical cylinder head exhaust flange,
- the right nut (9) of the vertical cylinder head exhaust flange.
Check that the quick-release fasteners (32) are installed on the horizontal cylinder exhaust pipe (3).
Refit the horizontal heat shield (13) securing it with the retaining screws (42), the spacers (25) and the washers (34).
Exhaust system
Refit the bottom plate (6) fitting and tightening the screw (15) to a torque of 5 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque
settings).
Insert the centre exhaust pipe (5) in the horizontal cylinder exhaust pipe (3) and vertical cylinder exhaust pipe (4) and
secure with the clamps (16).
Position the clamps (16) as shown in the figure.
Position the clamps (16) so they are flush with the end of the exhaust pipes, or at least so that the notches (B) are not
completely uncovered.
Tighten the clamps (16) to the specified torque (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Exhaust system
Refit the cable (36) on the exhaust valve motor (37) inserting the end fitting (D) in the pulley hole.
Fix the cable (36) with the clip (46).
Refit the cable (36) inserting the end fitting (A) on the exhaust valve (B) and secure it with the circlip (45).
Adjust cable (36) on exhaust valve and exhaust valve motor as explained under Sect. 4 - 3, Adjusting the exhaust valve
bowden cable.
Set the exhaust valve motor (37) onto rear number plate holder, paying attention to position the spring (F) as shown.
Insert the fixing screws (15) with washers (38). Tighten the screws (15) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame
torque settings).
Exhaust system
Fasten wiring (C) to exhaust valve motor central body using the rubber clamp (39) and ensuring that the cables coming
out of motor do not touch the metal sheet sharp edge.
Connect the exhaust valve motor wiring (C) and fasten it with the clamp (40).
Refit the protection (35), starting the screw (42) with washers (34) and the spacer (25).
Note
When installing the protection (35), ensure that slot (G) matches the tab (H), as shown below.
Fasten the central exhaust pipe (5) to the mounting bracket of tank and exhaust (E) tightening the nuts (20) to a torque
of 22 Nm ± 10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Exhaust system
Connect the lambda sensors (2) to the main wiring harness (Sect. 6 - 1, Routing of wiring on frame).
Connect the silencer (8) to the centre exhaust pipe (5) and locate the springs (10).
If removed, install the two rubber bushes (24), positioning on either side of the silencer bracket (27).
Insert the spacer (23) in the silencer support bracket (27).
Move the silencer support brackets so that they rest against the footrest brackets.
Insert the screw (30) and, on the opposite side, fit the nut (31).
Tighten the screws (30) to a torque of 22 Nm ± 10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings), while holding the nut (30).
Check that the quick-release fasteners (32) are installed on the LH silencer (8).
Fit the left-hand side heat shield (33) and install, in-between heat shield and exhaust silencer (8), the three washers (34)
and the spacers (44) and (41), as shown in the figure.
Start the screws (42), (26) and (43) in their threads with the washers (34) onto left-hand side heat shield (33).
Tighten the screw (42) to a torque of 8 Nm ± 10% and the screws (26) and (43) to a torque of 10 Nm ± 10% (Sect. 3 -
Exhaust system
Follow the same procedure to refit the RH silencer (7).

Refit the seat 5 - 3, Removal of the seat
Refit the RH footrest bracket 7 - 15, Refitting the footrest
brackets
Evaporative emissions canister
10 Evaporative
- emissions canister
1 Screw
2 Rubber pad
3 Spacer
4 LH air deflector
5 Hose
6 Plate
7 Spacer
8 Nut
9 Evaporative emissions canister
10 Hose clip
11 Hose clip
12 Filter/oil reservoir hose
13 Hose clip
14 Union/filter pipe
15 Hose clip
16 Hose
17 Union
18 Aluminium gasket
19 Hose
20 Breather hose
796 EVAPORATIVE EMISSIONS CANISTER

796 ABS EVAPORATIVE EMISSIONS CANISTER
Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text. Refer to the exploded
view diagram.
Evaporative emissions canister system (USA versions only)

USA models are equipped with an additional system with an evaporative emissions canister that prevents fuel fumes from
being discharged into the atmosphere.
The hose (12) is connected to the evaporative emissions canister (9); when the fuel has been filtered, it is returned with
the hose (14) to the intake manifolds via the hoses (16) and (14). Hoses (5) and (25) vent to the ground.
For correct positioning of the connection hoses see the pictures below.
Removal of the evaporative emissions canister

fairings
Raise the fuel tank 8 - 2, Removal of the fuel tank
Disconnect the hose (12) connecting the evaporative emissions canister (9) to the fuel filler cap.
Release the hose (12) from the drain hose (20) by removing the strap (A).
Loosen the hose clamps (15) connecting the evaporative emissions canister (9) to the horizontal and vertical cylinders.
Undo the screws (B) and remove the LH air deflector (4), taking care to release the clutch hose (C) from the clips.
Remove the evaporative emissions canister (9) from the LH deflector (4) by releasing it from the plate (6).
Refitting the evaporative emissions canister

In particular the plate (6) that supports the canister from the LH deflector (4) was removed, refit it with the
corresponding elements, tightening the nuts (8) to a torque of 8 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3-3, Frame torque settings).
Tighten the screws (B) to a torque of 8 Nm ± 10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Operation Section reference

Refit the tank covers 5 - 2, Refitting the fuel tank fairings
Positioning the hoses, clamps and evaporative emissions canister
9 - Impianto elettri-co
1 - Removal–refitting of the engine assembly 4
Removal of the engine 5
Refitting the engine 7
2.1 - Lubrication system: oil pump 9

Removal of the oil pump 10
Disassembly of the oil pump 11
Reassembly of the oil pump 12
Refitting the oil pump 13
2.2 - Lubrication system: oil cooler 14

Removal of the oil cooler 15
Oil cooler inspection 18
Refitting the oil cooler 18
4.1 - Cylinder head assemblies: checks and adjustments 22

Checking and adjusting valve clearances 23
Checking the engine timing 27
4.2 - Cylinder head assemblies: timing belt covers/timing system 29

Removal of the timing belt covers 30
Removal of the timing system assembly 31
Disassembly and reassembly of the timing pulleys 34
Refitting the timing system assembly 35
Refitting the timing belt covers 44
4.3 - Cylinder head assemblies: camshafts 45

Removal of the intake manifolds 47
Refitting the intake manifolds 49
Removal of the side covers 51
Removal of the valve covers 53
Refitting the valve covers 54
Removal of the camshafts 55
Inspecting the camshafts 57
Checking the oil seals 57
Refitting the camshafts 58
Refitting side covers 61
4.4 - Cylinder head assemblies: valves - rocker arms 63

Removal of the cylinder head assembly 64
Overhaul of cylinder head components 68
Refitting the cylinder head assembly 76
Refitting the cylinder heads 82
5 - Cylinder/piston assemblies 84
Removal of the cylinder/piston assembly 85
Overhaul of the cylinder barrel/piston components 88
Refitting the cylinder/piston assembly 94
6.1 - Clutch assembly: APTC wet clutch 98

Description of the APTC clutch assembly 99
Removal of the APTC clutch 100
Disassembly of the clutch hub-plates-centre assembly 102
Overhaul and inspection of the APTC clutch components 103
Reassembly of the clutch hub-plates-centre assembly 105
Refitting the APTC clutch 107
6.2 - Clutch assembly: clutch cover 110

Removal of the clutch cover 111
Disassembly of the clutch cover 112
Reassembly of the clutch cover 113
Refitting the clutch cover 114
6.3 - Clutch assembly: primary drive gears 116

Removal of the primary drive gear 117
Refitting the primary drive gears and checking backlash 119
7.1 - Gearbox assembly: gearchange mechanism 122

Removal of the gear selector lever 123
Disassembly of gear interlock plunger and pawl assembly 126
Refitting the pawl assembly and the gear interlock plunger 127
Refitting the gear selector lever 129
7.2 - Gearbox assembly: gearbox shafts 131

Removal of the gearbox assembly 132
Disassembly of the gearbox shafts 134
Overhaul of the gearbox 144
Inspection of the gear selector forks 145
Inspection of the gear selector drum 146
Reassembly of the gearbox shafts 147
Reassembly of the gearbox 151
8 - Flywheel - alternator 152

Removal of the generator cover 154
Disassembly of the generator cover 156
Removal of the flywheel/alternator assembly 157
Checking the flywheel/alternator assembly 159
Refitting the flywheel-alternator assembly 164
Reassembly of the generator cover 166
Refitting the generator cover 167
9.1 - Crankcase assembly: external components 174

Removing outer components 176
Refitting the external components 180
Removal of the timing gears 185
Refitting the timing gears 186
Removal of the starter motor idler gear 187
Refitting the starter motor gear 188
9.2 - Crankcase assembly: crankcase halves 189

Separation of the crankcase halves 190
Overhaul of the crankcase halves 193
Overhauling the main bearings 196
Shimming the shafts 198
9.3 - Crankcase assembly: crankshaft/connecting rods assembly 208

Removal of the crankshaft/connecting rods assembly 209
Disassembly of the crankshaft/connecting rods assembly 210
Overhaul of the connecting rods 210
Reassembly of the connecting rods 215
Refitting the crankshaft/connecting rod assembly 217
Removal–refitting of the engine assembly
1 -Removal–refitting of the engine assembly
1 Engine
2 Bolt
3 Nut
4 Complete frame assembly
5 Swingarm pivot
796 FRAME
796 SWINGARM
796 ABS FRAME
796 ABS SWINGARM
Important
Removal of the engine

In order to remove engine you must first remove a series of other components from the motorcycle.
Most of these removal procedures are described in the relative sections of this manual.
The following flow chart illustrates the logical sequence in which the parts are to be removed from the motorcycle and a
reference to the section where the removal procedure is described. This section describes only the operations to be carried
out after having removed all the parts listed in the flow chart.


fairings
Remove the battery support 6 - 2, Battery support
Disconnect ECU connector from 6 - 12, Removal of the electronic
main wiring harness control unit
cable
Disconnect the HT leads 6 - 12, Spark plug
unit
twistgrip
Remove the throttle body 8 - 6, Removal of the throttle body
Remove the oil cooler from the 9 - 2.2, Removal of the oil cooler
frame
Remove the gearchange control 9 - 7.2, Removal of the gearbox
assembly
Remove the rear brake fluid 7 - 4, Removal of the rear brake
reservoir lever
Remove the footrests 7 - 15, Removal of the footrest
brackets
unit master cylinder assembly
Remove the front sprocket 7 - 14, Removing of the front
sprocket
Remove the side stand 7 - 16, Removing of the side stand
Remove the vertical head exhaust 8 - 8, Removal of the exhaust
pipe and the horizontal head system
exhaust pipe
Disconnect wiring connectors on the 6 - 1, Routing of wiring on frame
engine block
Place a stand under the engine.

Unscrew and remove the nuts (3) on the right-hand side of the frame in correspondence with front and rear mounting
bolts (2) securing the engine (1).
Slide out swingarm pivot (5) to remove the swinging arm from engine (1) (Sect. 7 - 13, Removal of the swingarm).
Withdraw the complete engine block (1) from the frame (4).
Refitting the engine

Important
Position the correct shims between engine and swingarm (Sect. 7 - 13, Refitting the swingarm).
Lubricate the nuts (3) of mounting bolts (2).

Tighten the nuts (3) to a torque of 60 Nm ± 5% (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings).

Connect wiring connectors on the 6 - 1, Routing of wiring on frame
engine block
Refit the vertical head exhaust 8 - 8, Refitting the exhaust system
pipe and the horizontal head
exhaust pipe
Refit the side stand 7 - 16, Refitting the side stand
Refit the front sprocket cover 7 - 14, Refitting the front sprocket
Refit the clutch transmission unit 7 - 8.2, Refitting the clutch master
cylinder assembly
Refit the footrests 7 - 15, Refitting the footrest brackets
Refit the rear brake fluid reservoir 7 - 4, Refitting the rear brake control
Refit the gearchange control 9 - 7.2, Reassembly of the gearbox
Refit the oil cooler to the frame 9 - 2.2, Refitting the oil cooler
Refit the throttle body 8 - 6, Refitting the throttle body
twistgrip
Reconnect the HT leads 6 - 12, Spark plug
Connect the starter 6 - 3, Refitting the starter motor
motor/solenoid cable
Connect ECU connector to main 6 - 12, Refitting the electronic control
wiring harness unit
Refit the battery support 6 - 2, Battery support
Lubrication system: oil pump
2.1 -Lubrication system: oil pump
1 Complete oil pump assembly

2 O-ring
3 Circlip
4 O-ring
5 Pump body
6 Circlip
7 Reducer bush
8 Spring washer
9 Screw
10 Screw
11 Spring washer
12 Pump drive gear
13 Bush
14 By-pass plug
15 Locating bush
16 By-pass spring
17 By-pass valve
796 FILTERS AND OIL PUMP

796 ABS FILTERS AND OIL PUMP
Important
Removal of the oil pump

filter cartridge
Disconnect the oil pressure sensor 6 - 5, Checking the indicating
devices
Remove the clutch cover 9 - 6.2, Removal of the clutch cover
Undo and remove the screws (9) and (10) securing the pump assembly.
Remove the oil pump assembly (1) and extract the O-rings (2) and (4) from the crankcase half together with two locating
bushes (15).
Disassembly of the oil pump

Hold the oil pump (1) in a vice taking care not to damage the drive gear (12).
Warning
Make sure that vice jaws are faced with soft material.
Remove the plug (14) and extract the spring (16) and by-pass valve (17).
Check the condition of the above components.
Remove the circlip (6), slide off the bush (13) and the circlip (3).
Slide out the pump drive gear (12).
Reassembly of the oil pump

Fit on the oil pump the pump drive gear (12), the circlip (3) and the bush (13).
Tighten the parts just fitted, inserting the circlip (6) in its seat.
Insert in the pump the by-pass valve (17), the spring (16) and screw the plug (14) and tighten the plug (3) to a torque of
17 Nm (Min. 15 Nm - Max. 19 Nm) Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings) by applying a threadlocker of medium strength.
Refitting the oil pump

If removed, apply specific threadlocker on the bushing (7) and screw it in the crankcase half, observing the height.
Position the reference bushings (15) and the oil sealing O-rings (2) and (4) according to the crankcase lubrication
channels.
Place the oil pump (1) on the crankcase and tighten the screws (9) to a torque of 26 Nm (Min. 23 Nm - Max. 29 Nm) and
the screw (10) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings).
Check the gear backlash with the driving pinion by fixing a dial gauge, equipped with the relevant stylus, to the crankcase
half.
Position the dial gauge stylus on one tooth of oil pump gear and set the gauge to zero in this position.
Move the gear slightly to measure the backlash; take four readings in diametrically opposed positions of the gear.
The clearance should be 0.10 mm.

Refit the clutch cover 9 - 6.2, Reassembly of the clutch
cover
Connect the oil pressure sensor 6 - 5, Checking the indicating devices
filter cartridge
Lubrication system: oil cooler
2.2 -Lubrication system: oil cooler
1 Oil cooler
3 Spacer
4 Screw
5 Oil return hose
6 Oil delivery hose
7 Nipple
8 Aluminium gasket
9 Screw
10 Guide
11 LH air deflector
12 Banjo bolt
13 Conveyor
14 RH air deflector
796 OIL COOLER

796 ABS OIL COOLER
Important
Removal of the oil cooler
Drain the oil from the lubrication 4 - 3, Changing the engine oil and
system filter cartridge
Loosen the screws (12) and remove the deflectors (11) and (14) and conveyor (13).
Loosen screw (9) to remove hoses from cable grommet (10). Release tabs (B) from cover (C).
Loosen the nuts on the unions (A) and detach the supply (6) and return (5) pipes from the cooler.
Check the condition of two O-rings at each hose connection.
Loosen the nuts on the unions (D) and detach the supply (6) and return (5) pipes from the engine.
You can now remove the nipples (7) for connecting the hoses to the engine.
Check the condition of the aluminium sealing washers (8) and renew them if necessary.
Loosen the screw (4) and recover the spacer (3) and the rubber mounting (2).
Slide the oil cooler (1) off the pins of the frame, towards the clutch-side of the motorcycle.
Remove the connection nipples (7) on the radiator, check the condition of the sealing washers (8) and renew if necessary.
Remove the rubber mountings (2); check their condition and renew if necessary.
Note
The oil cooler can be removed complete with its hoses.
Oil cooler inspection

Visually inspect the oil cooler.
Renew the cooler at any sign of damage or leaks.
Refitting the oil cooler
Note
Lubricate the threads of the nipples (5) and (6) and union O-rings (E) with engine oil.
Fit the vibration damper mounts (2) in the holes of the oil cooler mounting brackets.
Insert spacer (3) fully home into the central vibration damper (2).
Fit the sealing washer (8) on the nipple (7).

Apply threadlocker to the thread of the nipple (7) that is screwed into the oil cooler.
Fit the nipple (7) with the gasket (8) in the supply port or in the return port and tighten it to a torque of 23 Nm ±10%
(Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings) while restraining the hex nut of the radiator.
Set the O-rings to nipples (7) and grease the O-rings with engine oil.
Attach the unions (A) to the nipples (7), finger-tightening the union nuts.
Tighten the unions (A) to a torque of 18 Nm ±5% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Locate the cooler (1) on the front subframe pins and secure it with the screw (4) tightened to a torque of 10 Nm ±10%
Set the gaskets (8) in the nipples (7) and grease the pipe (5) and (6) O-rings with engine oil.
Attach the unions (D) of hoses (5) and (6) to the nipples (7), finger-tightening the union nuts.
Tighten the unions (D) to a torque of 25 Nm ±5% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Lay hoses into retainers (B) of cover (C) and fasten retainers. Position the hoses into cable grommet (10) and tighten the
screw (9) to a torque of 10 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 - 3, Frame torque settings).
Fit deflectors (11) and (14) as well as conveyor (13) then tighten the screws (12) to a torque of 5 Nm ±10% (Sect. 3 -

Fill the system with engine oil 4 - 3, Changing the engine oil and
filter cartridge
Positioning the oil cooler hoses
Cylinder head assemblies: checks and adjustments
4.1 -Cylinder head assemblies: checks and adjustments
1 Closing shim
2 Camshaft
3 Opening shim
4 Valve
796 CYLINDER HEAD : TIMING SYSTEM

796 VERTICAL CYLINDER HEAD
796 HORIZONTAL CYLINDER HEAD
796 ABS CYLINDER HEAD : TIMING SYSTEM
796 ABS VERTICAL CYLINDER HEAD
796 ABS HORIZONTAL CYLINDER HEAD
Important
Checking and adjusting valve clearances

fairings
frame
Remove the valve covers 9 - 4.3, Removal of the valve
covers
Remove the timing belt covers 9 - 4.2, Removal of the timing belt
covers
Note
For clarity, the figures show the engine block removed from the frame.
Remove the inspection cover (A) and install service tool no. 88713.0123.
Turn crankshaft with tool no. 88713.0123, and set it so that the horizontal piston is at the TDC in the combustion stage,
i.e. the valves of the horizontal head are all at rest position: check the valve clearance on the horizontal cylinder head.
Set the degree wheel of service tool no. 88713.0123: to zero the horizontal cylinder is at top dead centre of the
expansion stroke, and therefore we can proceed to check the valve clearances on this cylinder.
To measure valve clearances in the vertical cylinder, rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise through 270° from this
position. This will bring the vertical cylinder to top dead centre of the expansion stroke, and therefore we can proceed to
check the valve clearances on this cylinder.
Checking the opening clearance (Sa) of the intake/exhaust valves

To check the valve opening clearance (Sa), insert the blade of a feeler gauge between the opening rocker (C) and the
shim (3).
Note
While inserting the blade of the feeler gauge to check the clearance, apply gentle leverage to overcome the force of the
closing rocker spring and thus eliminate any play in the rocker mechanism: then check that the shim can rotate freely.
The clearance values must be within the specified limits (Sect. 3 - 1.1, Timing system/valves).
If not, remove the opening shim (3), as described in chapter “Removal of the cylinder head assembly”, Sect. 9 - 4.4, and
replace it with one of suitable height to obtain the prescribed assembly clearance.
Note
Opening rocker arm shims measuring 1.8 to 3.45 are available as spare parts: the size is punched on the shim.
Checking the closing clearance (Sc) of the intake/exhaust valves

To check the valve closing clearance, insert a feeler gauge between the closing rocker (D) and the shim (1): the closing
clearance (Sc) corresponds to the thickness of the feeler gauge and should allow the free rotation of the shim without any
significant play.
The value must be within the prescribed ones (Sect. 3 - 1.1, Timing system/valves).
If not, remove the closing shim (1), as described in chapter “Removal of the rocker arms, shims and valves”, Sect. 9 -
4.4, and replace it with one of suitable height to obtain the prescribed assembly clearance.
Note
Closing rocker arm shims measuring from 2.2 to 4.5 are available as spare parts: the size is punched on the shim.
Refit the opening and closing shims as described in the paragraph “Refitting of the rocker arms, shims and valves“,
Sect. 9 - 4.4.
Checking valve lift

Fit the gauge (C) 88765.1581 in correspondence with the fixing hole of the previously removed head valve cover,
as shown in the figure.
Reset the valve opening clearance when the camshaft is in its rest position by inserting the blade of a feeler gauge
between the upper rocker arm and the opening shim.
Note
This operation is best done using one dial gauge for the exhaust valve and another one for the intake valve.
Make sure the dial gauge fork is centred relative to the valve axis and located against the closing shim.
Set the dial gauge to zero when the valve is fully closed.
Rotate the intake camshaft so as to allow the intake valves to lift fully.
Check on the dial gauge that the measured value corresponds to the prescribed one (Sect. 3 - 1.1, Timing
system/valves).
Perform the same procedure for the exhaust valve, fixing the support to the opposite side of the cylinder head.
Refit the components by carrying out the same Operations indicated in chapter “Checking and adjusting valve clearances”,
previously described.
Remove the tools 88765.1581.

Refit the timing belt covers 9 - 4.2, Refitting the timing belt
covers
Refit the valve covers 9 - 4.3, Refitting the valve covers
Checking the engine timing

fairings
Remove the fuel tank 8 - 2, Refitting the fuel tank
frame
covers
Remove the horizontal cylinder 8 - 8, Removal of the exhaust
exhaust pipe system
Remove the timing belt covers 9 - 4.2, Removal of the timing belt
covers
Note
Engine timing should be checked after changing parts such as camshafts, valves or timing belt rollers or when overhauling
badly worn engines.
Remove the spark plugs and install the tool (E) 88765.1297 in the spark plug recess to determine the piston's TDC,
along with gauges (C) 88765.1581 and the timing check tool with timing degree wheel (G) 88713.0123.
Reset the opening valve clearance when the camshaft is in rest position by inserting a feeler gauge between the opening
rocker arm and the opening shim.
Check that in this condition the camshaft can rotate. If it moves stiffly, use a thinner feeler gauge.
In this condition, with the piston of the horizontal cylinder at TDC and the valves fully closed as confirmed by the reading
on dial gauge (E), set gauges (C) to zero.
Set the tension value of the belts as described at Sect. 9 - 4.2, Refitting the timing belt tensioner pulleys.
Turn the degree wheel (G) counter clockwise until the gauge dial (C), on the exhaust side, shows a lift of 1 mm. Check
that the value of the angular displacement read on the degree wheel (G) is as specified in (Sect. 3 - 1.1, Timing
system/valves).
Continue to rotate in the same direction until you obtain a lift of 1 mm on the intake side. Check the angular value on the
degree wheel.
Continue to rotate until, in correspondence with the closure of the valve for the compression stroke, you obtain a lift of the
intake valve of 1 mm on the gauge (C). Check the angular value with the prescribed one (Sect. 3 - 1.1, Timing
system/valves).
Rotate clockwise again until obtaining 1 mm lift of the exhaust valve, on both valve opening and closure.
Check the angular displacement value against the specified value.
Repeat the procedure for the vertical cylinder.
Permissible tolerance for measured values is ±3° with respect to specified values.
Remove the tools used to check engine timing.

covers
Refit the horizontal cylinder 8 - 8, Refitting the exhaust system
exhaust pipe
Cylinder head assemblies: timing belt covers/timing system
4.2 -Cylinder head assemblies: timing belt covers/timing system
1 Vertical cylinder timing belt cover

2 Horizontal cylinder timing belt cover
3 Screw
4 Screw
5 Spacer
6 Elastic stop ring
7 Washer
8 Outer timing belt driveshaft pulley
9 Horizontal cylinder timing belt
10 Intermediate spacer
11 Idler pulley assembly
12 Screw
13 Elastic stop ring
14 Washer
15 Special washer
16 Camshaft pulley
17 Flange
18 Screw
19 Screw
20 Screw
21 Tensioner pulley assembly
22 Inner timing belt driveshaft pulley
23 Vertical cylinder timing belt
24 Key
25 Circlip
26 Key
27 Screw
28 Guide
29 Screw
30 Spacer
796 TIMING SYSTEM

796 ABS TIMING SYSTEM
Important
Removal of the timing belt covers

fairings
exhaust pipe system
Loosen the screw (4), the screws (3), (29) and remove the horizontal timing belt cover (2).
Undo the screw (4) securing the vertical timing belt external cover (1) and remove it.
When the screw (29) is tightened, the cable guide (28) with the spaces (30) is released.
Removal of the timing system assembly

Loosen the positioning screw (20) of the tensioner pulley (21) of the horizontal cylinder timing belt.
Loosen the horizontal cylinder tensioner screw (27) and move tensioner (21) to its rest position.
Remove the horizontal cylinder timing belt (9).
Repeat the above operations to remove the vertical cylinder timing belt (23).
To remove the camshaft pulleys, install the tool 88713.3152 on the pulley to be removed to prevent its rotation, and
using service socket no. 88700.5644 inserted in a torque wrench or ratchet arm, loosen the pulley retaining nut (13).
Remove the nut (13), washer (14) and pulley (16).
Important
On reassembly, always fit new nuts.
Unscrew and remove the idler pulleys (11).
Use the wrench of tool no. 88700.5644 to lock rotation of the timing belt driveshaft pulley on the crankcase and, using
the socket combined with the tool, loosen the ring nut (6).
Remove the nut (6), the washer (7) and the outer pulley (8).
Remove the first tongue (24) located on the timing belt driveshaft.
Remove the intermediate spacer (10) and the inner pulley (22).
Remove the second tongue (26) located on the timing belt driveshaft.
Remove the spacer (5) and the circlip (25).
Disassembly and reassembly of the timing pulleys

To disassemble pulley parts, loosen and remove the three screws (12), slide out washer (15) and remove pulley (16) from
flange (17).
To reassemble, fit the pulley (16) on the hub (17), aligning the timing mark (G) on the pulley with the timing mark (H) on
the hub.
Install the washer (15) up against the pulley, aligning the timing notch (I) with the timing mark (G) on the pulley and the
one (H) on the hub.
Insert the screws (12) in the threaded holes (L) of the hub.
Refitting the timing system assembly
Refitting the camshaft timing pulleys

Check that the keyway on the end of camshaft is in good condition and without burrs.
Fit one key (C) into the camshaft keyway.
Important
During reassembly, take care that the timing mark “B” on the spacer flange is aligned with the mark “A” on the pulley
and washer.
Fit the assembled pulley (16) onto the camshaft, so that is firmly seated.
Warning
Make sure that the tongue is not dislodged.
Insert tool no. 88713.3152 in the belt pulleys to prevent their rotation.
Apply a smear of grease to the thread and underside of the nut (13), and fit the washer (14) and the nut.
Important
Always fit new nuts on reassembly.
Using the socket of service tool no.88700.5644 in combination with a torque wrench, tighten the nuts (13) to a torque of
71 Nm (Min. 64 Nm - Max. 78 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3,Engine torque settings).
Refitting the timing belt driveshaft pulleys

Install the circlip (25) on the pulley side of the timing belt driveshaft. Drive it into its seat using the protective
cap 88700.5749 and the relative drift.
Install spacer (5) with the slot facing the crankcase.

Fit the first key (26), the inner pulley (22), the guide washer (10) and the second key (24) on the timing belt driveshaft.
Then fit the outer pulley (8), outer spacer (7) and ring nut (6).
Important
To prevent the nuts working loose and consequent serious engine damage, always use new self-locking nuts on all the
timing belt pulleys on reassembly.
Note
Apply a film of grease to the thread and the underside of the ring nut (6).
Use the wrench of tool 88700.5644 to restrain the pulleys against rotation and, using the bush of the tool in a torque
wrench, tighten the self-locking nut to a torque of 71 Nm (Min. 64 Nm - Max. 78 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque
settings).
Refitting the timing belt tensioner pulleys

If it was disassembled, apply the recommended threadlocker to the fixed tensioner (11) and tighten it to a torque of 20
Nm (Min. 18 Nm - Max. 22 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings).
Position the crankshaft so that the piston of the horizontal cylinder is at TDC of its power stroke. This is achieved by
aligning the timing mark (P) on the timing belt driveshaft pulley (8) with the reference notch (Q) on the clutch cover.
Important
Turn the timing belt driveshaft pulley with the spark plugs removed from the engine.
Remove the inspection cover (C) from generator cover by unscrewing the two screws (D).
Install the service tool 88713.2011 in the generator cover to hold the crankshaft against rotation and secure it with the
relative pin.
Remove the screw (F) from the side cover (E) and recover the relevant washer.
Restrain the camshafts of both cylinder heads by screwing tool no. 88713.2282 into the side covers.
Turn the pulleys by hand until the end of the tool engages the slot on the camshaft.
Fit the horizontal (9) and vertical (23) timing belt using your hands only and without altering the alignment of the pulleys.
Locate the tensioner pulleys (21) on the vertical and horizontal cylinders. Screw without tightening to the specified torque
screw (27) and screw (20) so that the tensioners can turn.
Check the timing belt tension and adjust if necessary as described in the paragraph “Measuring timing belt tension“ (Sect.
6 - 13).
Warning
Check the tension values on sections of belts (M) and (N) shown in the figure.
When the correct belt tensioning value is reached, ensure that screws (20), (27) and (12) are tightened to a torque of 10
Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3,Engine torque settings).
Warning
Whenever you renew any components of the timing system, it is good practice to also check the timing (Sect. 9 - 4.1,
Cylinder head assemblies: checks and adjustments).
Remove the side covers (E) of the tool part no. 88713.2282 and refit the screws (F), with the recommended
threadlocker, with corresponding washer, tightening it to a torque of 3 Nm (Min. 2 Nm - Max. 3 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine
torque settings).
Remove the crankshaft locking tool 88713.2011 unscrewing first the pin and then the screw from the tool.
Refit the inspection cover (C) in the generator cover, inserting the two screws (D).
Tighten the screws to a torque of 5 Nm (Min. 4.5 Nm - Max. 5.5 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings).
Note
Before refitting the cover (C), check the condition of the O-ring and renew it if necessary.
Refitting the timing belt covers

Position the vertical timing belt cover (1) on the engine.
Start the screw (4) in its thread on the cover.
Locate the horizontal timing belt cover (2) on the engine.
Set the cable guide (28) with the spacer (30) on the cover (2) by starting the screw (29) on its thread.
Tighten the screw (4), the screws (3) and (29) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine
torque settings).

exhaust pipe
Cylinder head assemblies: camshafts
4.3 -Cylinder head assemblies: camshafts
1 Screw
2 Vertical cylinder head inner timing belt cover
3 Sealing ring
4 Screw
5 Washer
6 Horizontal cylinder head inner timing belt cover
7 Screw
8 Valve cover
9 O-ring
10 Vertical cylinder head
11 Horizontal cylinder head
12 Stud bolt
13 Stud bolt
14 Nut
15 Key
16 Camshaft-vertical cylinder head
17 Intake manifold
18 Screw
19 O-ring
20 Plug
21 Screw
22 Horizontal cylinder head camshaft
23 Copper gasket
24 Screw

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796 INTAKE MANIFOLDS

796 ABS INTAKE MANIFOLDS
Important
Removal of the intake manifolds

fairings
Remove the battery support 6 - 2, Battery support
Disconnect ECU connector from 6 - 12, Removal of the electronic
main wiring harness control unit
cable
Disconnect the HT leads 6 - 12, Spark plug
unit
twistgrip
Remove the throttle body 8 - 6, Removal of the throttle body
Note
The procedure can also be carried out with the engine installed in the frame. For clarity, the photos show the engine
removed from the frame.
Unscrew and remove the nuts (14) securing the intake manifolds of the vertical and horizontal cylinder heads from the
studs (13).
Remove the manifolds (17).
If necessary, remove the studs (12) and (13) from the cylinder heads.
Refitting the intake manifolds

Apply the recommended threadlocker to the stud bolts (12) and (13), install them on the cylinder heads and tighten them
to a torque of 15 Nm (Min. 13 Nm - Max. 17 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings).
Locate the intake manifolds (17) and secure with the nuts (14).
Tighten the nuts (14) to a torque of 23 Nm (Min. 20 Nm - Max. 26 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings).

Refit the throttle body 8 - 6, Refitting the throttle body
twistgrip
Reconnect the HT leads 6 - 12, Spark plug
cable
Connect ECU connector to main 6 - 12, Refitting the electronic
wiring harness control unit
Refit the battery support 6 - 2, Battery support
fairings
Removal of the side covers

fairings
exhaust pipe system
Remove the side timing belt covers 9 - 4.2, Removal of the timing belt
covers
Remove the timing belts and 9 - 4.2, Removal of the timing
camshaft timing belt pulleys on the system assembly
heads
Note
For clarity, the figures show the cylinder head removed from engine.
Remove the retaining screws (18) and (1) and remove the cover (2) from the vertical cylinder head (10).
Repeat the operation for the horizontal cylinder head (11).
Note
When removing the covers, take care not lose the tongues (15) located on camshafts (16) and (22).
Unscrew the screws (21) of the cover (20) of the camshaft (16).
Remove the camshaft end cap (20) from the cylinder head and recover the O-ring (19).
Removal of the valve covers

fairings
frame
In the ABS version, the ABS pipe support (A) is fixed to the cover (8) of the exhaust-side vertical cylinder head. Loosen
the screws (B) and remove the support.
Loosen the retaining screws (7) of the valve covers (8) and remove the covers with relative O-rings (9).
Refitting the valve covers

Always fit new O-rings (9) when refitting.
Fix the valve covers (8) with the relative O-ring (9) to the cylinder head.
Tighten the screws (7) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm) (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).
In the ABS version, the ABS pipe support (A) is fixed to the cover (8) of the exhaust-side vertical cylinder head. Refit the
support (A) and tighten the screws (B) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max 11 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque
settings).

Removal of the camshafts

fairings
exhaust pipe system
covers
Remove the timing belts and 9 - 4.2, Removal of the timing
camshaft timing belt pulleys on the system assembly
heads
Remove the side covers 9 - 4.3, Removal of the side covers
Note
This operation can be carried out with the rocker arms installed in the cylinder head. For clarity, the photos show the
cylinder head with the opening rocker arm removed.
Remove the key (15) from the camshaft.
Note
To prevent possible damage to components, turn the camshaft (16) through a series of rotations so that the cams do not
foul the rockers.
Note
When rocker arms are in place, the procedure is easier if you remove the clip (A) from opening rocker arm (B).
Withdraw the cylinder head camshaft (16) from its housing.

Remove the sealing ring (3) from the cylinder head.
Inspecting the camshafts

Check the cam contact surfaces for scratches, grooves, steps and waving. Worn cams are frequently the cause of poor
timing, which leads to loss of engine power.
Install the camshaft between two centres and check for distortion using a dial gauge:
- service limit: 0.1 mm.
Note
The effective distortion will be half the total reading obtained on the dial gauge.
Each camshaft is stamped with an identification letter:

O: horizontal;
V: vertical.
Checking the oil seals
Fit new oil seals at each engine overhaul.

Insert the new oil seals squarely in their bores. Use suitable drifts.
Lubricate the lip of oil seals after assembly. This operation must be performed very carefully.
Refitting the camshafts

If removed, install the sealing ring (3) in its seat on the cylinder head right-hand side, using a suitable tool.
Important
If the valve rocker arms are already installed in the cylinder head (Sect. 9 - 4.4, Refitting of the rocker arms, shims and
valves.), turn the camshaft (16), through a series of rotations, so that the cams do not foul the rocker arms.
Before fitting the camshaft, check the mark: “V” means vertical, “O” means horizontal.
Apply graphite oil to the seats of the camshaft so that it is lubricated also during the initial revs of the engine.
Insert the camshaft (16) from the left-hand side of the cylinder head.
If removed, reposition clip (A) onto opening rocker arm (B).
Check the condition of the key (15) and its groove, and install it.

Refit the inner timing belt covers 9 - 4.3, Refitting side covers
Refit the timing belt pulleys on the 9 - 4.2, Refitting the timing system
heads and the timing belts assembly
Refit the timing covers 9 - 4.2, Refitting the timing belt
covers
exhaust pipe
Refitting side covers

Lubricate the new O-rings (19) with the recommended grease and fit on the end cap (20).
Fit the end cap (20) on the left-hand side of the cylinder head.
Fasten the cover (20) using the screws (21), with the recommended threadlocker.
Tighten the screws (21) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 10 Nm) (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).
Note
Take care not to dislodge the key (15) located on camshaft (16).
Locate the cover (2) of the vertical cylinder head (10) on the left-hand side of the cylinder head and insert the retaining
screws (1) and (18).
Tighten the screws (18) and (1) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings).
Repeat the above operations for the other cylinder head (11).

Refit the camshaft and the timing 9 - 4.2, Refitting the timing system
belt pulleys on the heads assembly
covers
exhaust pipe
Cylinder head assemblies: valves - rocker arms
4.4 -Cylinder head assemblies: valves - rocker arms
1 Clip
2 Shim
3 Opening rocker arm
4 Rocker arm shaft
5 O-ring
6 Valve opening shim
7 Half rings
8 Valve closing shim
9 Spring
10 Valve rubber
11 Exhaust valve guide
12 Washer
13 Intake valve guide
14 Intake valve seat
15 Exhaust valve seat
16 Exhaust valve
17 Intake valve
18 Closing rocker arm
19 Nut

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Important
Removal of the cylinder head assembly

Remove the engine from the 9 - 1, Removal of the engine
frame
Remove the side timing belt 9 - 4.2, Removal of the timing belt
covers covers
Remove the timing belts and the 9 - 4.2, Removal of the timing
timing belt pulleys system assembly
Removal of the cylinder heads
Note
On disassembly of the components mounted on the cylinder head it is essential that they are laid out or marked in such a
way that they can be refitted in exactly the same position they occupied before being removed.
Using tool 88713.2676, unscrew the nuts (19) on the cylinder head studs.
Remove the nuts (19) and recover the special washers (12) positioned between the nuts and the cylinder head.
Remove the head assembly from the engine by lifting it off the engine stud bolts.
Remove the cylinder head gaskets (C).
Removal of the rocker arms, shims and valves

covers
Remove the camshafts 9 - 4.3, Removal of the camshafts
Remove the camshaft end caps 9 - 4.3, Removal of the side covers
Remove the clip (1) securing the opening rocker (3).

Move the rocker arm (3) to free the valve opening shim (6).
Screw tool 88713.2837 on the threaded end of the opening rocker arm shaft (4).
Slide out the rocker arm shaft (4) and recover the opening rocker arm (3) and the two shims (2).
Using a screwdriver, hold the closing rocker arm (18) in the valve open position:
Slide the valve closing shim (8) along the intake valve stem (17) in such a way as to make it possible to remove the two
half rings (7) securing the valve.
Use long nosed pliers or a magnetic screwdriver to remove the half rings (7) from the valve stem.
Slide the valve closing shim (8) off the valve (17).
Withdraw the valve (17) from the underside of the cylinder head.
Repeat the procedure for the exhaust side.

Attach the end of the spring (9) of the closing rocker arm (18) to the tool 88713.2783.
Slide out the closing rocker arm shaft (4) using tool 88713.2837.
Remove the rocker arm (18), the spring (9) and the service tool 88713.2783.
Overhaul of cylinder head components
Overhaul of the cylinder heads

Remove any carbon deposits from the combustion chamber and its ducts.
Check for cracking and inspect the sealing surfaces for scoring, ridges or other damage.
The cylinder barrel mating surface must be perfectly flat. If this is not the case, spread diamond dressing compound
(6 to 12 micron thickness) on a reference surface and slide the cylinder head on the surface as shown in the figure until a
flat finish is obtained.
Checking the valves

Check that the stem and the valve seat contact surface are in good condition. There must be no pitting, cracks,
deformations or signs of wear.
Warning
The valves cannot be ground.
Perform the following checks: measure the diameter of the valve stem (D) at various heights along the portion that runs
in the valve guide.
Check that valve head band (at 45° to valve head top face) is concentric to the valve stem as follows: place the valve on
a V block, set a dial gauge at right angles to the head and rotate the valve.
- Service limit: 0.03 mm.
Checking the valve seats
Visually inspect the valve seats: there must no excessive hollowing and there must be no pitting or cracks.
If a valve seat is slightly damaged, it may be lapped using the special 45° lapping tools, with subsequent grinding of the
valves and leak test.
If the valve seats are excessively damaged, fit oversize seats. Replacement seats are available with 0.03 and 0.06 mm
oversized outside diameters.
Important
When you change the valve seats, change the valve guides as well.
Renewal of the valve seat

Remove the worn seats by grinding out the rings. Take great care not to damage the valve seat housing in the cylinder
head.
Check the diameter of head bores and choose the oversized valve seat that will give an interference fit of 0.11 to
0.16 mm. Replacement valve seats are supplied in outside diameter oversizes of 0.03 and 0.06 mm.
Heat the cylinder head gradually and evenly up to 200 °C and chill the new valve seats in dry ice.
Install the seats perfectly square into their bores using a suitable installer.
Allow to cool and then lap the valve seats, smooth the connections between the ducts and the new seats and grind the
valves.
Valve–seat contact surfaces

Use Prussian blue or a mixture of minimum and oil to check that the contact surface (W) between valve and seat is 1.0 to
1.5 mm.
Maximum permissible limit: 2.0 mm.
Grind the seat if the dimension measured is greater than above limit.
Fill the intake and exhaust ducts with fuel to check for leaks; if leaking occurs, check the sealing surfaces for burrs.
Overhaul of the valve guides

Carefully examine the internal surface of the valve guide: for cracking or distortion. If the guide is excessively out-of-
round, use a reaming tool to make the mating faces more uniform.
Note
When you change the valve guide, you must also change the valve. The intake valve guides are in cast iron while the
exhaust ones are in bronze.
Valve-valve guide clearance

Assembly clearance: 0.03 to 0.06 mm.
Maximum permissible wear limit: 0.08 mm.
Renewal of the valve guides

To renew the valve guides (11) and (13), proceed as follows.
Heat up the cylinder head gradually and evenly up to 200 °C.
Drive out the valve guide using a suitable drift (see drawing).
Allow the cylinder head to cool down and check the condition of the seat.
Select the most suitable replacement valve guide to obtain an interference fit in the cylinder head bore of
0.022-0.051 mm; replacement valve guides are supplied in O.D. oversizes of 0.03, 0.06 and 0.09 mm complete with
lock rings.
Heat up the cylinder head again and chill the new valve guide in dry ice.
Lubricate the seat and install the valve guide so that the stop ring is located against the head, using the drift previously
used to remove the old guide.
Allow the cylinder head to cool, then ream out the inside of the new valve guide.
Overhauling the rocker arms

Check for signs of wear, grooves or chrome flaking off.
Check the condition of the rocker arm bore and shaft:
- nominal diameter of rocker arm bore: 10.040 to 10.062 mm.
- nominal diameter of rocker arm shaft: 10 to 0.005 mm.
Check the contact surfaces of the shims and the valve return collets are perfectly flat with no signs of wear.
Rocker shaft–rocker bore clearance

The assembly clearance must be 0.03 to 0.06 mm.
Maximum permissible wear limit: 0.08 mm.
The rocker arm shafts should be a light force fit in the cylinder head.
In the event of excessive clearance, fit 0.02 mm oversize shafts (available from Parts Service).
Checking the rocker arm springs

Carefully examine the springs (9) of the closing rocker arms (18). There must be no signs of cracking, distortion, or loss
of elasticity.
Refitting the cylinder head assembly

To refit the cylinder head reverse the steps of the removal procedure; pay particular attention to those operations
mentioned specifically.
It is very important that all the components are carefully cleaned.
If removed, fit new valve guide seal rings (10), lubricate with engine oil and insert from the spring side with tool part
no. 88713.2442.
Fit the end of the tool into the valve guide and use a mallet to tap the seal rings (10) home into the valve guides.
Refitting of the rocker arms, shims and valves

Fit the closing rocker arm (18) and relative spring (9) on service tool no. 88713.2783.
Insert the tool-rocker-spring assembly in the cylinder head and fit shaft (4) with a new washer (5), duly lubricated.
Important
When assembling the rocker arm shafts (4) make sure that threaded hole is on the external side of the cylinder head.
Detach the spring (9) and remove the tool no. 88713.2783.
Proceed in the same way for the exhaust side.
Install the valve (17) and valves (16), first lubricating them with engine oil.
Temporarily fit the camshaft (C).
Using a screwdriver, hold the closing rocker arm (18) in the valve open position:
Fit the closing shim (8) on the valve stem (17) with the larger diameter side facing the rocker arm.
Position the two half rings (7) on the valve stem.

Remove the screwdriver and position the closing rocker arm (18) in rest position.
Reposition the screwdriver, and compress the spring as much as possible while holding the valve, the shim and the half
rings in the valve closed position. Release the closing rocker (18) with a rapid motion, so that the half rings seat in the
shim.
With the valve in rest position and while pushing on the rocker arm to oppose the force of the return spring, check that
the clearance between the rocker shoe and the closing shim is within the specified tolerance limits (Sect. 9 - 4.1,
Checking the closing clearance (Sc) of the intake/exhaust valves).
If not, adjust the valve clearance (Sect. 9 - 4.1, Checking and adjusting valve clearances).
Once the required clearance is obtained, take out the camshaft (C) that was temporarily installed, lubricate it using
graphite oil and refit it onto the head.
Insert the rocker arm shaft (4) with the threaded hole on the external side of the cylinder head: gasket (5) shall be
replaced and duly lubricated every time it is removed.
Locate the opening rocker arm (3) and the two shims (2) on shaft (4).
Refit the camshaft end caps (Sect. 9 - 4.3, Refitting side covers).
Refit the timing belt pulleys (Sect. 9 - 4.2, Refitting the timing belt driveshaft pulleys).
Locate the valve opening shim (6) on the valve stem.
With the valve in rest position, check that clearance between the rocker arm (3) and the shim (6) is within the specified
tolerance limits (Sect. 9 - 4.1, Checking the opening clearance (Sa) of the intake/exhaust valves).
If not, adjust the valve clearance as described under Sect. 9 - 4.1, Checking and adjusting valve clearances.
Fit the side clip (1) on the shaft (4) of the opening rocker arm (3) between the two spacers (2).

Refit the camshaft end caps 9 - 4.3, Refitting side covers
Refit the camshafts 9 - 4.3, Refitting the camshafts
Refitting the cylinder heads
Warning
To prevent oil leaks past the contact area between cylinders and crankcase, each time the head is removed, cylinder and
piston must be removed as well to clean the mating faces of crankcase and cylinder and restore the spoiled gaskets and
O-rings and apply again liquid sealant (Sect. 9 - 5, Refitting the cylinder/piston assembly).
Before refitting the cylinder head assemblies, fit new head gaskets (C) and check that the locating dowels (A) and
bushings (B) are installed (Sect. 9 - 5, Cylinder/piston assemblies).
Fit the cylinder head onto the studs and lower it down onto the cylinder barrel.
Fit the special washers (12) over the stud bolts with the square edged face towards the cylinder head and the flat face
towards the inside.
Grease the threads and undersides of the nuts (19) and the threads of the studs with the recommended grease.
Use the tool part no. 88713.2676 combined with a torque wrench, to tighten the fastening nuts to the specified torque,
proceeding in a crosswise sequence with a snug torque of 15 Nm (Min. 13 Nm - Max. 17 Nm); with a preload torque of 30
Nm (Min. 28 Nm - Max. 32 Nm); with a tightening torque of 48 Nm (Min. 46 Nm - Max. 50 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine
torque settings).
Important
Incorrect tightening could cause abnormal elongation of the studs and serious damage to the engine.

Refit the timing belt pulleys and 9 - 4.2, Refitting the timing system
the timing belts assembly
covers
Refit the engine to the frame 9 - 1, Refitting the engine
Cylinder/piston assemblies
5 -Cylinder/piston assemblies
1 Pin
2 Circlip
3 Gudgeon pin
4 Vertical cylinder
5 Piston rings
6 Cylinder-crankcase gasket
7 Pin
8 Horizontal cylinder
9 Piston
10 Centring bush
11 Cylinder-head gasket
796 CYLINDERS - PISTONS

796 ABS CYLINDERS - PISTONS
Important
Removal of the cylinder/piston assembly

Remove the engine from the frame 9 - 1, Removal of the engine
covers
Remove the timing belts and the 9 - 4.2, Removal of the timing
timing belt pulleys system assembly
Remove the cylinder heads from 9 - 4.4, Removal of the cylinder
the engine head assembly
Remove the dowel (7), bushes (10) and head gasket (11) from their seats on the cylinder barrel.
Use the tool no. 88700.5644 to bring the horizontal cylinder (8) piston (9) close to TDC.
Carefully lift the cylinder barrel (8) off the crankcase, keeping it vertical.
If necessary, rock the cylinder slightly using both hands or tap its base gently with a rubber mallet. Continue to lift the
cylinder until you can access the gudgeon pin (3).
Since insertion of piston in the barrel is a difficult operation to perform at the time of reassembly, remove the piston
together with the barrel as an assembly as described below.
Close the opening in the engine crankcase with a rag or soft paper to prevent foreign material or solid combustion residue
from falling in.
Remove the circlip (2) of the gudgeon pin (3) from the clutch side.
Working from the opposite side, drive out the gudgeon pin (3) sufficiently to release the connecting rod.
Lift the cylinder/piston assembly clear of the engine crankcase studs.
If work is to be carried out on the piston, carefully withdraw it from the cylinder.
To remove the vertical cylinder-piston assembly, proceed as described above for the horizontal cylinder.
Remove cylinder-crankcase gaskets (6) from the cylinder barrel.
Important
Mark the pistons to show from which cylinder they were removed:
V= Vertical - H= Horizontal.
Overhaul of the cylinder barrel/piston components

Overhauling the cylinder
Check that the walls of the cylinder bore are perfectly smooth. Measure the cylinder bore diameter (D) at three different
heights and in two directions offset by 90°, thereby determining the assembly clearance, taper, and ovality (see specified
values in Section 3 - 1.1, Cylinder/Piston).
In the event of damage or excessive wear the barrel must be renewed as it has a silicon carbide coating (which provides
the cylinder walls with excellent anti-friction and anti-wear properties) and therefore cannot be rebored.
The cylinders are marked by a letter (punched into the specific surface on the cylinder side) showing the size class to
which they belong.
Always match cylinders with pistons from the same size class.
Overhaul of the piston
Clean the piston crown and piston ring grooves, removing any carbon deposits.
Inspect the piston and check its dimensions carefully: there must be no signs of scuffing, scoring, cracks, or other
damage.
Check piston diameter.
The pistons must always be renewed as a pair.
Piston-cylinder clearance
The pistons are marked with a letter (punched into the piston crown) that indicates the size class to which they belong.
Always match cylinders with pistons from the same size class.
The prescribed values are given in Sect. 3 - 1.1, Cylinder/Piston.
Overhauling the gudgeon pins
Gudgeon pins must be perfectly smooth without signs of scoring, steps, or blueing due to overheating. The well-lubricated
gudgeon pin must slide smoothly inside the piston without stiffness.
The assembly clearance with the piston at the time of installation must be 0.002 to 0.008 mm.
The maximum permissible wear limit is 0.035 mm.
If a new gudgeon pin is fitted, you must also change the connecting rod small end bush.
Overhauling the piston rings

The piston rings must not show any signs of scuffing or scoring. Replacement pistons are supplied complete with piston
rings and gudgeon pin.
Piston ring-to-groove clearance
The maximum permissible wear limit is 0.15 mm for the top segment (1st) and 0.10 mm for the others (2nd and oil
scraper ring).
Note
The piston rings must always be installed with markings facing upwards.
Gudgeon pin-piston clearance

Measure the diameter of the gudgeon pin bore in the piston.
Measure the diameter of the gudgeon pin
Maximum wear limit: 0.025 mm.
Note
If you fit a new gudgeon pin, you must also change the connecting rod small end bush.
Piston ring-to-bore clearance

It is essential that the measurement be performed with the piston ring (A) positioned perfectly square in the cylinder. For
this reason, the piston (9) should be inserted in the cylinder without piston rings fitted and then place the piston ring to
be checked on top of the piston.
Measure the piston ring gap.

Top and second piston ring (nominal): 0.20 to 0.40 mm.
Wear limit: 0.80 mm.
Oil control ring (nominal): 0.30 to 0.60 mm.
Wear limit: 1.0 mm.
Refitting the cylinder/piston assembly

If a new cylinder/piston assembly is to be fitted, make sure that the piston and cylinder are of the same size class.
The letter indicating the cylinder size class is stamped on the cylinder-head mating face; the piston size class letter is
stamped on the crown in between the two recesses.
If the pistons have been separated from their cylinders, before reassembling these components, position the piston ring
gaps at 120° from one another (the markings must always face the piston crown).
Use a universal tool to carefully insert the piston into the cylinder (first lubricate the inside of the cylinder with engine
oil). Position the cylinder with the smallest valve pockets facing the exhaust port.
Remove any deposits and degrease the contact surfaces of the crankcase half and the cylinders.
Check that pin (1) is installed on the crankcase.
Apply a bead of liquid gasket to the mating surfaces of gasket (6):

the exact configuration of the bead of liquid gasket varies according to whether the gasket is for the (6) for the vertical
cylinder (V) and the horizontal cylinder (O). The picture shows liquid gasket application surfaces for the various
configurations.
Surface in contact with the vertical cylinder (A).
Surface in contact with the crankcase, at the vertical cylinder (B).
Surface in contact with the horizontal cylinder (C).
Surface in contact with the crankcase, at the horizontal cylinder (D).
Locate the gasket (6) on the crankcase with the word “TOP” facing upwards.
Using service tool no. 88700.5644, bring the small end of the connecting rod small end up to near TDC. Fit the piston–
cylinder assembly on the crankcase studs.
Push the connecting rod small end into the piston close to the gudgeon pin (3) bore. Lubricate and insert the gudgeon
pin. The gudgeon pin must slide smoothly in the connecting rod small end bush and in the piston (9).
Stuff the crankcase opening with a cloth to prevent foreign objects from falling inside and then fit the circlip (2) using
service tool 88713.2270.
Important
Always fit new circlips (2) on reassembly.
Push the cylinder barrel (4) down until it seats against the crankcase.
Important
Position the locating dowel (7), head gasket (11) and centring bushes (10).
Repeat the procedure for the other cylinder.

Refit the cylinder heads 9 - 4.4, Refitting the cylinder heads
Refit the timing belt pulleys and 9 - 4.2, Refitting the timing system
the timing belts assembly
covers
Clutch assembly: APTC wet clutch
6.1 -Clutch assembly: APTC wet clutch
1 Screw
2 Collar
3 Clutch lifter
4 Clutch spring
5 Pressure plate
6 Bearing
7 Clutch plates
8 Nut
9 Lock washer
10 Clutch centre
11 Shim washer
12 Spring
13 Hub
796 CLUTCH
796 ABS CLUTCH
Important
Description of the APTC clutch assembly

The APTC system with servo-assisted torque and anti-wheel slip on braking.
The advantages of this system are:
- it avoids the excessive intervention and discomfort of the engine brake at shift down, thus ensuring a smooth and neat
bend entrance (slipper clutch);
- reduces the amount of driver effort required to disengage the clutch. The clutch lever effort is significantly reduced,
without compromising the feel of the lever to the rider (servo-assisted).

The APTC system consists essentially of a splined coupling between the two parts of the clutch drum.
This coupling exploits the axial component of driving torque (bike accelerating) or reverse-acting torque (clutch
disengaged) to produce servo-assistance in the former case and prevent rear wheel slip in the latter.
In practice, this means that under acceleration (and thus with driving torque) the clutch pack will tend to be under a
greater load (from springs initially more loaded), while during hard downshifting, the reverse-acting torque will tend to
take load off the springs thus causing the plates to slip.
Before working on the internal clutch parts, check that the clutch operates correctly. Then deal with the problem in a
systematic manner.
The following is a list of possible causes of clutch malfunctions.

A clutch which does not disengage may be caused by:
- excessive play of the control lever;
- distorted clutch plates;
- incorrect spring tension;
- faulty clutch release mechanism;
- excessive wear of the hub or clutch housing.
A clutch which slips may be caused by:

- insufficient play of the control lever;
- worn clutch plates;
- weakened springs;
- faulty clutch release mechanism;
- excessive wear of the hub or clutch drum.
A noisy clutch may be caused by:

- excessive backlash between the primary drive gears;
- damaged primary drive gear teeth;
- excessive play between friction plate tabs and the clutch drum;
- worn gear/clutch drum bearings;
- the presence of metal particles (filings) on the gear teeth.
Removal of the APTC clutch

Drain the engine oil 4 - 3, Changing the engine oil and filter
cartridge
Disconnect the oil pressure 6 - 5, Checking the indicating devices
sensor
Screw the three tools 88713.2591 into the relative bores in the hub.
Unscrew the retaining screws (1) and remove the collars (2) and the clutch springs (4).
Remove the pressure plate (5) with the clutch control pin (3). If necessary, using a drift of suitable diameter, remove the
bearing (6) installed on the inner side of the pressure plate (5).
Hold the clutch drum with the service tool part no. 88713.2556 and unscrew the fastening nut (8).
Remove the washer (9).
Withdraw the clutch hub-plates-centre assembly (B) from the clutch drum (A), marking the components so as to be able
to install them in the same position.
Remove the spacer (11) from the clutch drum (A).
Disassembly of the clutch hub-plates-centre assembly

Unscrew the three tools 88713.2591.
Withdraw the hub (13) and the plates (7) from the clutch centre (10). Recover the three springs (12).
Remove the clutch plates (7) from the hub (13).
Important
When removing the plates, keep them in the same order as they were originally installed, tying them together if
necessary.
Overhaul and inspection of the APTC clutch components
Clearance between the clutch drum and friction plates

Insert a friction plate (C) in the clutch drum (A) and measure the clearance (S) with a feeler gauge.
Clearance “S” must not exceed 0.6 mm.
If it does, renew the plates and, if necessary, the clutch drum.
Overhaul of the clutch plates

The clutch plates must not show any signs of blackening, grooves or deformation.
Measure the thickness of the friction plates. It should not be less than 3.2 mm.
Important
The total thickness of the clutch plate pack must not be less than 50.2 mm.
Place the plate on a flat surface and check the amount of deformation with a feeler gauge.
Max flatness error: 0.2 mm.
Overhaul of the pressure plate

Check the condition of bearing (6): renew the bearing if the play is excessive.
Check the contact surfaces of the last friction plate; if excessively scored, use a reference plate and diamond lapping
paste (6-12 microns thick) and rub the friction plate on it to obtain a smooth, uniform surface.
Check the condition of the spring guide cups (D) of the pressure plate (5) and always replace the spring retainer caps (2)
at each overhaul.
Overhauling the pressure plate springs

Measure the length “L” of each spring (4):
- Minimum length: 41 mm.
Renew any springs that are shorter than the above limit value.
Reassembly of the clutch hub-plates-centre assembly

Install the three springs (12) on the pin (E) on the drum (10).
Install the clutch plates (7) in the hub (13) starting with one of the 11 friction plates (F) and alternate with the 10 driven
plates (G).
Install the clutch plate assembly (7) with hub (13) in the drum (10).
Warning
When refitting the clutch centre (10) with the hub (13), align the reference notches (H) and (L).
Insert the three tools 88713.2591 to fix the hub (13) to the clutch centre (10).
Screw in the three tools 88713.2591 by hand, pressing down on the clutch plates with the hub (13), so as to overcome
the resistance of the springs.
Note
Screw in the three tools 88713.2591 to put the clutch plates under a light load.
Refitting the APTC clutch

Locate the spacer (11) on the drum (A).
Position the hub-plates-drum assembly (B) inside the drum (A).
Note
Place the last clutch plate (M) offset with respect to the others.
Locate the lock washer (9) on the primary shaft, seating it against the clutch assembly.
Apply the recommended grease to the contact face of the nut (8) and to thread of the primary shaft, then fit the nut to
the input shaft and tighten by hand.
Restrain the clutch drum with tool part no. 88713.2556 when tightening nut (8).
Tighten the nut (8) to a torque of 190 Nm (Min. 180 Nm - Max. 200 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings).
Remove service tool no. 88713.2556.
Install the pressure plate (5) on the clutch assembly (B) aligning the three tools 88713.2591 with the three indents (N)
in the pressure plate.
Check that the two codes (P) stamped on the hub (13) and the pressure plate (5) are aligned.
In each cavity, fit a spring (4) and a cap (2).

Tighten the screws (1) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings) in a
crosswise sequence.
Unscrew and remove the service tools 88713.2591.

Refit the clutch cover 9 - 6.2, Refitting the clutch cover
filter cartridge
Clutch assembly: clutch cover
6.2 -Clutch assembly: clutch cover
1 Clutch-side crankcase cover

2 Screw
3 Screw
4 Oil level sight glass
5 Screw
6 Panel (BLACK)
7 O-ring
8 Bush
9 Sealing ring
10 Shim washer
11 Circlip
12 O-ring
13 Locating bush
14 Sealing washer, thickness 2
15 Plug
16 Pressure switch
17 Cover
18 Plug
19 Sealing washer
20 Screw
796 CLUTCH-SIDE CRANKCASE COVER

796 ABS CLUTCH-SIDE CRANKCASE COVER
Important
Removal of the clutch cover

cartridge
sensor
Unscrew the screws (2), (3) and (5) securing the clutch-side crankcase cover (1).
Tap around the edge of the cover with a plastic mallet to detach it from the crankcase half.
Remove the crankcase cover (1) taking care not to damage the locating bush (13).
Check the condition of the locating bush (13) and replace if deformed.
Disassembly of the clutch cover

Remove the plug (15) from the cover and the relative O-ring (7), the engine oil pressure switch (16) and its seal (14).
Unscrew the screw (20) securing the inner cover (17).

Remove the inner cover (17) and sound-proofing panel (6).
Remove the circlip (11) and slide off the shim (10) and the sealing ring (9).
The drilled bush (8) is mounted to the cover by a forced interference fit. Remove it using a suitable puller.
Inspect the sealing ring (9) and renew it if necessary.
Reassembly of the clutch cover

Fit the plug (15) and the seal (7). Install the pressure switch (16) with its seal (14).
If the bush has been replaced, fully seat the new bush (8) in the slot in the cover using a suitable drift and a press.
If the sealing ring (9) needs to be renewed, fit the new seal into the crankcase cover, positioning it so the side without a
spring is facing the circlip (11).
Before fitting, check that the edges of the circlip groove show no sign of burrs which might otherwise damage the sealing
ring.
Then fit the shim (10) and the circlip (11).
Important
In order for the sealing ring (9) to function correctly, it must have an assembly clearance that allows the circlip (11) to
rotate.
Position the sound-proofing panel (6) inside the clutch-side crankcase cover (1), aligning it with the pin (A) as shown in
the figure.
Place the inner cover (17) on the panel (6), centring it with respect to the pin (A).
Fit the screw (20) with the recommended threadlocker and tighten the screw (20) to a torque of 24 Nm (Min. 22 Nm -
Max. 26 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings).
Refitting the clutch cover

Clean and degrease mating surfaces on the clutch-side crankcase cover and crankcase and ensure that locating bush (13)
and the O-ring (12), located in correspondence with the oil way, are installed in the crankcase.
Apply a uniform continuous bead of DUCATI liquid gasket (B) onto crankcase mating surfaces, working around all the
holes.
Fit the cover assembly (1) to the crankcase half and insert the retaining screws. Tighten the screws (2), (3) and (5) to a
torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings) in a crosswise pattern.

filter cartridge
Clutch assembly: primary drive gears
6.3 -Clutch assembly: primary drive gears
1 Clutch drum/Primary drive gears

2 Inner ring
3 Inner bearing
4 Spacer
5 Threaded ringnut
6 Lock washer
796 CLUTCH
796 CONNECTING RODS
796 ABS CLUTCH
796 ABS CONNECTING RODS
Important
Removal of the primary drive gear

cartridge
sensor
Remove the clutch assembly 9 - 6.1, Removal of the APTC clutch

Remove the oil pump 9 - 2.1, Removal of the oil pump
Withdraw the clutch drum (1) complete with roller bearings (3) and the driven gear of the primary gear pair (A).
Remove the circlip (2) and the internal spacer (4).
Straighten out the lock washer (6) on the nut (5) securing the primary driving gear (B).
Restrain the primary driving gear (B) using service wrench no. 88713.2423 and unscrew the threaded nut (5) securing
the pinion.
Remove the nut (5) and lockwasher (6).
Remove the primary driving gear (B) using puller 88713.2092 and interposing a packing piece of aluminium or copper
between the crankshaft and the screw of the puller.
Take care to recover the key (C) from the crankshaft and the internal spacer.
Refitting the primary drive gears and checking backlash

Fully degrease the crankshaft splined end and the corresponding spline on the primary drive gear.
Check that the key (C) and internal spacer (D) are in position on the crankshaft.
Fit the driving gear (B) onto the crankshaft with the oil pump drive sprocket facing the crankcase.
Temporarily secure the gear with the washer (6) and nut (5).
Important
If fitting a new primary driving gear (B), check the backlash.
To check the gear backlash, temporarily fit the clutch drum (1) complete with internal spacer (4), driven gear (A), roller
bearing (3) and internal bush (2) on the gearbox primary shaft. Fix a dial gauge to the engine crankcase, positioning the
stylus against a gear tooth.
Turn the driven gear (A) to mesh the teeth and check with the dial gauge that backlash ranges between 0.05 and
0.07 mm.
Repeat the check at 16 different points of the driven gear.
If the measured values are outside the permissible tolerance limits, try changing the position of driven gear (A) on the
primary shaft, leaving the driving gear (B) on the crankshaft. If the backlash is still outside the tolerance limits, renew the
primary drive gear pair (1).
After checking the gear backlash, secure the pinion (B) with the service tool part no. 88713.2423, apply the
recommended grease to the ring nut (5) and tighten it to a torque of 190 Nm (Min. 171 Nm - Max. 209 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3,
Engine torque settings).
Stake the lock washer (6) onto the nut (5).
Refit the oil pump and check the clearance between the oil pump gear and primary drive gear on the crankshaft (Sect. 9 -
2.1, Refitting the oil pump).
Thoroughly degrease the mating surfaces of the clutch drum (1), the internal bearing (3) and the bush (2).
Fit the internal spacer (4) to the input shaft with its flat side facing outwards. Install the inner bush (2) and clutch drum
(1) with driven gear (A) complete with roller bearing (3).

Refit the complete clutch 9 - 6.1, Refitting the APTC clutch
assembly
Refill the engine with oil 4 - 3, Changing the engine oil and
filter cartridge
Gearbox assembly: gearchange mechanism
7.1 -Gearbox assembly: gearchange mechanism
1 Return spring
2 Washer
3 Banjo bolt
4 Gear pawl assembly
5 Interlock plunger holder
6 Sealing washer
7 Detent ball spring
8 Ball
9 Circlip
10 Selector claw return spring
11 Shim washer
12 Circlip
13 Nut
14 Selector drum control fork
15 Gearchange lever pin
16 Shaft with gearchange lever arm
17 Gearchange lever arm return spring
18 Screw
19 Spacer
20 Screw
21 Gearchange mechanism
22 Locating ring
23 Stop plate
24 Shim washer
796 GEARCHANGE CONTROL

796 ABS GEARCHANGE CONTROL
Important
Removal of the gear selector lever

filter cartridge
control
Remove the front sprocket 7 - 14, Removing of the front
sprocket
Remove the generator cover and 9 - 8, Flywheel - alternator
flywheel-generator assembly
Undo the gear selector mechanism (21) retaining screws (18) and (20).
Remove screws (18) and (20), spacer (19) and withdraw the gear selector mechanism complete with the gear lever shaft,
spring and plate.
Important
Visually inspect the gear selector claw (14) for wear, particularly around the area where it contacts the selector drum.
Disassembly of the gear selector lever

If it is necessary to renew any components, disassemble the gearchange mechanism as shown in the exploded view.
Reassembly of the gear selector lever

If the components of the gearchange mechanism were dismantled on removal, fit the spring (17) on the shaft (16) in the
position indicated in the photo. Grease the threaded end of the eccentric gearchange lever pin (15) and install it on the
upper part of the gearchange lever, securing it with the nut (13). Screw the nut on by hand (do not tighten)).
Insert the shaft (16) in stop plate (23) and washer (24) and secure with circlip (9).
Ensure that the shaft with lever (16) is positioned correctly relative to stop plate (23). The edges of the plate must be
equidistant from the pin of the lever; to adjust the position, loosen the lock nut (13) and turn eccentric pin (15).
Position the spring (10) between the shaft (16) and the fork (14).
Fit the ring (12) to secure the assembly.
Check that the spring (10) is installed correctly as shown in the figure.
Then tighten the nut (13) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings).
Disassembly of gear interlock plunger and pawl assembly

cartridge
sensor
Remove the clutch assembly 9 - 6.1, Removal of the APTC clutch
Remove the clutch drum 9 - 6.3, Removal of the primary drive
gear
Unscrew the interlock plunger screw (5) and remove the seal (6), the spring (7) and the detent ball (8).
Unscrew the clutch-side crankcase screw (3) and remove the pawl (4), the washer (2) and the spring (1).
Refitting the pawl assembly and the gear interlock plunger

On the special screw (3), fit the gear pawl lever (4), orienting it as shown in the figure, the washer (2) with the square
edge side (D) facing the clutch-side crankcase half, and the spring (1), positioning it so that the hook end (A) is facing
the gear pawl lever. Locate the hook end (A) of the spring on the gear pawl lever as shown in the figure.
Apply threadlocker to the screw thread.
Start the screw in the crankcase half. Position end (B) of the spring so that it rests against rib (C) of the crankcase half,
as shown in the figure. Tighten the screw (3) to a torque of 18 Nm (Min. 16 Nm - Max. 20 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine
torque settings). Check that the spring functions correctly by manually moving the gear pawl lever.
Apply grease and then fit the ball (8), the spring (7), and the seal (6) into the interlock plunger (5) and tighten the
interlock plunger assembly into the crankcase.
Tighten the interlock plunger to a torque of 30 Nm (Min. 27 Nm - Max. 33 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings) and
screw in the interlock plunger into the crankcase.

Refit the clutch drum 9 - 6.3, Refitting the primary drive
gears and checking backlash
Refit the complete clutch 9 - 6.1, Refitting the APTC clutch
assembly
Refill the engine with oil 4 - 3, Changing the engine oil and
filter cartridge
Refitting the gear selector lever

Position the gearbox drum selector fork in the centre of the gear rollers.
Position the whole gear selector lever (21) into the chain-side crankcase half.
Insert the screws (18) and (20) with the spacer (19).
Temporarily fit gear change lever (or a service lever) and sprocket and shift to neutral gear.
Place the tool 88713.3334 on the gear claw.

Place the tool inserting the pushrod (A) into the tool hole, block the pin (B) of the tool in the gear claw pressing with the
hand in the point (C) towards the right.
In this position, tighten first the screw (18) to a torque of 36 Nm (Min. 34 Nm - Max. 38 Nm) and then the screw (20) to
a torque of 16 Nm (Min. 15 Nm - Max. 17 Nm), securing the gear selector lever (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings).
Remove the tool and check that the pin (D) placed on the gear drum is axially to the notch (E) on the gear claw.
With the gearbox in neutral, check that the lever travel is the same when shifting up and down. The same should apply
when a gear is engaged.
Operate the gearchange lever and turn the front sprocket at the same time to check that all the gears engage when
shifting up and down.
Remove the gear change lever.

Refit the flywheel/generator 9 - 8, Refitting the flywheel-
assembly and generator cover alternator assembly
Refit the front sprocket cover 7 - 14, Refitting the front sprocket
transmission unit
Refit the gearchange control 7 - 9, Removal of the gearchange
control
Fill the engine with oil 4 - 3, Changing the engine oil and
filter cartridge
Gearbox assembly: gearbox shafts
7.2 -Gearbox assembly: gearbox shafts
1 Shim, thickness 1
2 Gearbox primary shaft
3 Shim, thickness 0.5
4 Needle roller bearing
5 5 th speed driving gear
6 Splined washer, thickness 0.5
7 Circlip
8 3 rd - 4 th speed driving gear
9 6 th speed driving gear
10 2 nd speed driving gear
11 Shim, thickness 1.8
12 Splined washer, thickness 0.5
13 Selector drum
14 Special needle roller (square cross-section)
15 Shim washer
16 Selector drum assembly
18 1 st speed driven gear
19 Shim, thickness 1
20 5 th speed driven gear
22 3 rd speed driven gear
24 2 nd speed driven gear
25 Gearbox secondary shaft
26 Shim washer
28 1 st, 4 th - 2 nd , 3 rd speed selector fork
29 5 th , 6 th speed selector fork

30 Selector fork shaft
32 Needle roller retaining circlip

796 GEARBOX
796 ABS GEARBOX
Important
Removal of the gearbox assembly

Remove the complete clutch 9 - 6.1, Removal of the APTC clutch
assembly
Remove the lubrication system 9 - 2.1, Removal of the oil pump
Remove the generator cover 9 - 8, Removal of the generator
cover
Remove the engine starting system 6 - 3, Electric starting system
covers
Remove the timing belts 9 - 4.2, Removal of the timing
system assembly
Remove the cylinder heads 9 - 4.4, Removal of the cylinder
head assembly
Remove the cylinder barrel/piston 9 - 5, Removal of the
assemblies cylinder/piston assembly
Remove the gear selector lever 9 - 7.1, Removal of the gear
selector lever
Remove the gear interlock plunger 9 - 7.1, Disassembly of gear
interlock plunger and pawl
assembly
Separation of the crankcase halves 9 - 9.2, Separation of the
crankcase halves
Withdraw the selector fork shafts (30).

Move the forks (28) and (29) to disengage them from the slots in the selector drum.
Remove the selector drum (13) taking care not to lose shims (31) and (27) mounted on the shaft. Note that the
positions of the shims must not be inverted.
Now you can renew the needle roller retaining ring (32) and the special needle rollers (14).
Remove gear selector forks (29) and (28).
Remove the gearbox primary (2) and secondary (25) shafts complete with gears, taking care to recover the spacers on
the ends of the shafts.
If the bearing inner rings (A) are left on the shafts, slide them off the ends of the gearbox primary (2) and secondary (25)
shafts (Sect. 9 - 9.2, Overhauling the main bearings).
After removing them from the shafts, install them in the respective outer bearings in the engine crankcase half.
Disassembly of the gearbox shafts

Place the shaft in a vice in such a way as to facilitate the disassembly operations.
Important
Take care not to invert the positions of the shims on reassembly:
this would potentially lead to jamming when using the gear selector control, making it necessary to reopen the engine
crankcase.
Disassembly of the gearbox secondary shaft

Remove the chain-side shim (15) and clutch-side shim (26) from the secondary shaft.
Withdraw the first speed driven gear (18) with the roller cage (17) and the shim (19).
Remove the fifth speed driven gear (20).
Use two flat blade screwdrivers to remove the circlip (7) taking care not to damage the shaft surface.
Remove the circlip (7) and the splined washer (6).
Withdraw the fourth speed driven gear (21) with the roller cage (4) and splined washer (12).
Remove the third speed driven gear (22) with the roller cage (4) and the splined washer (6).
Remove the circlip (7) and remove the sixth speed driven gear (23).
Remove the circlip (7) and withdraw the splined washer (6) and the second speed driven gear (24).
Withdraw the roller cage (4) and the shim (3). All the components have thus been removed from gearbox secondary shaft
(25).
Disassembly of the gearbox primary shaft

Remove the chain-side shim washer (11) and the clutch-side shim washer (1) from the primary shaft.
Remove the second speed driving gear (10). Use two screwdrivers to prise out the circlip (7) and the splined washer (6).
Important
Take care to avoid damaging the surface of the shaft while removing circlip (7).
Remove the sixth speed driving gear (9) with its roller cage (4). Remove the splined washer (6) and the circlip (7).
Withdraw the third and fourth speed driving gear (8).
Remove the circlip (7) and the splined washer (6).
Remove the fifth speed driving gear (5) with the roller cage (4).
Slide the shim (3) off the primary shaft (2).
Overhaul of the gearbox

Check the condition of the front coupling dogs of the gears. They must be in perfect condition and with no sign of wear on
the edges of the teeth.
The idler gears must rotate freely on their shafts.
When refitting, make sure the circlips are correctly positioned.
Check the needle roller bearings for wear.
The threads and splines of the shafts must be in perfect condition.
Also check that the component parts of the gear selector mechanism are in good condition.
Engage the gears and check that the gearchange mechanism does not stick (selector fork - gear groove, and fork pin -
desmodromic drum groove) due to incorrect end float. Restore the correct end float by shimming the gearbox shafts and
the selector drum with suitable shims.
For the total gearbox shaft and selector drum end clearance values, refer to Sect. 3 - 1.1Gearbox.
Inspection of the gear selector forks

Visually inspect the gear selector forks. Bent forks must be renewed as they may lead to difficulties in gear changing or
may suddenly disengage when under load.
Use a feeler gauge to check the clearance of each fork in its gear groove.
If the service limit has been exceeded, check whether or not it is necessary to replace the gear or the fork by referring to
the limits specified for each part (Sect. 3 - 1.1Gearbox).
Inspection of the gear selector drum

Use a gauge to measure the clearance between fork pin and the slot on the selector drum.
If the service limit is exceeded, determine which part must be replaced by comparing these dimensions with those of new
components (Sect. 3 - 1.1, Gearbox).
Also check the wear on the drum support pins; these must not show any signs of scoring, burrs, or deformation.
Turn the drum in the crankcase to establish the extent of radial play. If play is excessive, change whichever part is most
worn.
Reassembly of the gearbox shafts

Figure 1 shows all the parts to be reassembled on the gearbox primary shaft (2), with the calculated end shims (1) and
(11) (Sect. 9 - 9.2, Shimming the shafts).
Figure 2 shows all the parts to be installed on the gearbox secondary shaft (25), with calculated end shims (15) and (26)
(Sect. 9 - 9.2, Shimming the shafts).
Reassemble the gears on the gearbox shafts by reversing the disassembly procedure.
Take particular care when installing the idler gears. The assembly of the 3 rd and 4 th speed gears and the relative fixing
components on the secondary shaft is given as an example.
Fit the circlip (7), checking that it is fully inserted into its groove on the shaft. Push the circlip into position with a suitable
size tubular drift.
Slide the washer with three internal points (6) over the shaft until it locates against the circlip you have just fitted.
To fit the needle roller cage (4) onto the shaft, first lubricate it with plenty of grease (of recommended type) and then
open it slightly to make it easier to slide on to the shaft.
Fit the 3 rd speed gear (22).
Fit on the gear the three-pointed washer (12), which can be distinguished from its counterpart (6) by its bigger outside
diameter.
Fit another needle roller cage (4) using the method already described.
Fit the 4 th speed gear (21).
Fit another safety washer (6) and another circlip (7) into the shaft. Seat the circlip using the drift used previously.
Reassembly of the gearbox

To reassemble the gearbox components, please proceed as indicated in Sect. 9 - 9.2 regarding the “Reassembly of the
crankcase halves”.
As a final practical test, ensure that with the gearbox in neutral the front coupling dogs (A) of sliding gears (B) are
equidistant on both sides with respect to the corresponding coupling dogs on the fixed gears (C).
Check also that there is always a small amount of clearance between fork (D) and relative groove (E) on sliding gear (B)
when engaging the gears.

Reassemble the engine crankcase 9 - 9.2, Reassembly of the
halves crankcase halves
Refit the gear interlock plunger 9 - 7.1, Refitting the pawl assembly
and the gear interlock plunger
Refit the gear selector lever 9 - 7.1, Refitting the gear selector
lever
Refit the cylinder barrel/piston 9 - 5, Refitting the cylinder/piston
assemblies assembly
Refit the cylinder heads 9 - 4.4, Refitting the cylinder head
assembly
Refit the timing belts 9 - 4.2, Refitting the timing system
assembly
covers
Refit the engine starter system 6 - 3, Electric starting system
Refit the generator cover 9 - 8, Refitting the generator cover

Refit the lubrication system 9 - 2.1, Refitting the oil pump
Refit the clutch assembly 9 - 6.1, Refitting the APTC clutch
Flywheel - alternator
8 -Flywheel - alternator
1 Front sprocket cover

2 Pick-up sensor inspection plug
3 Sealing ring
4 O-ring
5 Cover
6 Screw
7 Washer
8 Spacer
9 Cable guide bracket
10 Screw
11 Screw
12 Screw
13 Flange
14 Screw
15 Washer
16 Flywheel
17 Washer
18 Inner ring
20 Electric starter driven gear
21 Starter clutch
22 Flywheel-starter clutch assembly
23 Alternator rotor
24 Screw
25 Screw
26 Bearing
27 Circlip
28 Generator cover
29 Locating bush
30 Bracket
31 Screw
32 Alternator stator
33 Belleville washer
34 Flanged nut
35 Screw
36 Aluminium gasket
796 ALTERNATOR-SIDE CRANKCASE COVER

796 ELECTRIC STARTING AND IGNITION
796 ABS ALTERNATOR-SIDE CRANKCASE COVER
796 ABS ELECTRIC STARTING AND IGNITION
Important
Removal of the generator cover

filter cartridge
control
Remove the front sprocket cover 7 - 14, Removing of the front
sprocket
Note
For clarity, the figures show the engine block removed from the frame.
Unscrew the two retaining screws (6) of the centre cap (5) over the end of the crankshaft.
Loosen the screws (10), (11), (12) and (14) securing the generator cover and the cover (1).
Recover the spacers (8), the washer (38) and the cable guide (9).
Fix service tool no. 88713.1749 to the holes left vacant by the two bolts (6) you have just removed.
Turn the tool shaft slowly to separate the cover (28) from the LH crankcase half.
Disassembly of the generator cover

Undo the three stator retaining screws (24) and the two screws (31) securing the cable guide bracket (30) from inside the
generator cover.
Remove the stator (32) and the cable guide bracket (30).
The generator cover is fitted with a bearing (26), held in place by circlip (27), which locates on the end of the crankshaft.
Remove the circlip (27) with circlip pliers.
Remove the bearing (26) using a universal puller.
Removal of the flywheel/alternator assembly

Use service tool no. 88713.2036 fixed to the M10 side stand fixing holes (D).
Secure the tool to the flywheel with the screw (E).
Unscrew the alternator/flywheel nut (34), heating it with a hot air gun; do not use a naked flame as this could damage
the starting system components.
Warning
While unscrewing the nut, apply axial pressure to the socket to avoid damage or injury in the event of the wrench
suddenly slipping off the nut.
Remove the nut (34), the Belleville washer (33) and the flywheel assembly (22) together with gear (20).
Remove the inner race (18), the needle roller bearing (19) and the washer (17).
Important
Examine the inner race (18), needle roller bearing (19) and internal washer (17) for wear.
Note
The hole in the inner race (18) allows the passage of oil for lubrication of needle roller bearing (19).
Checking the flywheel/alternator assembly

Examine the inner part of alternator rotor (23) for signs of damage.
Check that the starter clutch is working properly and that the needle races do not show signs of wear or damage of any
kind.
If there is any malfunction, remove the whole assembly.
Disassembly of the flywheel-alternator assembly.

Unscrew the eight screws (25) and remove the alternator rotor (23) from the flywheel.
Insert two of the screws (25) just removed from the flywheel rotor-side in their holes in order to remove the flange (13)
and the starter clutch (21) from the flywheel (16).
The starter clutch is a slight interference fit on the flange. To remove it, use a suitable drift.
Reassembly of the flywheel-alternator assembly

Install the starter clutch (21) in the flange (13) and take it fully home.
Important
Orient the flange with the round edge side (A) facing the starter clutch.
Seat the flange (13) with the starter clutch in the flywheel (16), aligning the flange locating hole (B) with the flywheel
locating hole (C).
Insert a pin or a wrench inside the hole (C) on the rotor flywheel in order to line up flywheel holes with flange threading.
This is a useful tip, as the holes cannot be aligned after having fitted the flange to the flywheel due to the interference fit.
Orient the flange with the round edge side facing the flywheel.
Install the rotor (23) on the flywheel (16), aligning the flywheel locating hole (E) with the rotor locating hole (D).
Apply threadlocker to the rotor-flywheel fixing screws (25) and start them in their threads.
Tighten the screws (25) to a torque of 13 Nm (Min. 11 Nm - Max. 15 Nm) (Sect. 3- 3, Engine torque settings).
Lubricate the race (P) of the driven gear (20) with engine oil.
Install the driven gear (20) on the starter clutch, ensuring it is properly seated.
Note
To facilitate the introduction operation, turn the driven gear in the direction indicated by the “green“ arrow.
Check that the driven gear can rotate freely in the direction of the green arrow but not in the direction of the red arrow.
If either of these two conditions is not met, this means that the starter clutch has not been installed correctly.
Refitting the flywheel-alternator assembly

Fit the washer (17), duly lubricated, the needle roller bearing (19), and the inner ring (18) to the crankshaft. Make sure
the inner ring is centred on the washer.
Fit the previously assembled flywheel-rotor-driven gear on the crankshaft, taking care not to alter the position of inner
ring (18) with respect to the washer (17).
The flywheel reference mark must be aligned with the groove on the crankshaft, in correspondence with the keyway.
Lubricate the contact surfaces of Belleville washer (33) with engine oil.
Fit the Belleville washer (33) on the end of the crankshaft.
Apply recommended threadlocker to the crankshaft thread and to the flywheel nut thread (34).
Restrain the rotation of the flywheel with the holding tool 88713.2036.
Important
Tighten the nut (34) to a torque of 270 Nm (Min. 256 Nm - Max. 284 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings).
Remove all traces of Loctite from the threads of the nut (34) and the crankshaft (A).
Reassembly of the generator cover

Fit the stator (32) to the generator cover, routing the cable through the notch in the cover.
Apply threadlocker to the stator retaining screws (24) and tighten them to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm)
Fit the cable plate (30) and fix it to the cover with the two screws (31).
Before refitting, make sure that the crankshaft end bearing (26) and relative retaining ring (27) are installed on the
generator cover (28).
Refitting the generator cover

Remove any scale and grease from the mating surfaces of the left-hand crankcase half and the generator cover.
Fit the two locating bushes (29).
Spread a continuous uniform bead of DUCATI liquid gasket on the mating surface of the cover (28), ensuring continuity
around the holes for the retaining screws and locating bushes.
Tap the cover at different positions with a rubber mallet to facilitate its location on the shafts and locating bushes.
Insert the fixing screws in their holes following the indications given in the table.
Ref. Qty Description

10 2 M6x20 mm screws
Install under the screw (12), in correspondence with the starter motor, the spacer (8), the cable guide (9), the washer
(38) and install the cover (1) under screw (11) in correspondence with the alternator lead: for instructions on the
positioning of the wiring under the cover (1) see below.
Tighten the retaining screws to a torque of 13.5 Nm (Min. 12.5 Nm - Max. 14.5 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings).
Check that the fuel tank drain hose (T) and the airbox drain hose (U) are positioned in the lower slot of the cover (1) as
shown.
Offer the cover (1) up to the generator cover and position the fuel tank breather hose (T) and the airbox drain hose (U),
the side stand cable (R), generator cable (S) and the starter motor cable (Q) as shown.
Important
The starter motor cable (Q) is the only cable that should be routed outside the cover (36).
Position the fuel tank drain hose (T), inserting it in the guide (9).
Damp the sealing ring (3) with alcohol and install it in the generator cover, in correspondence with the gearchange shaft
(Sect. 7 - 9, Refitting the gearchange mechanism) by means of the suitable drift 88713.1411.
Make sure that the O-ring (4) is installed in the cover (5).
Apply threadlocker to the screws (6).
Tighten the two cover (5) retaining screws (6) in front of the crankshaft to torque of 5 Nm (Min. 4.5 Nm - Max. 5.5 Nm)

Refit the sprocket cover 7 - 14, Refitting the front sprocket
transmission unit
mechanism
filter cartridge
Positioning of cables/hoses under the breather hose cover mounted on the generator cover
Crankcase assembly: external components
9.1 -Crankcase assembly: external components
1 Key
2 Timing gear pair
3 Lock washer
4 Hexagonal nut
5 Key
6 Sealing washer
7 Plug
8 Aluminium gasket
9 Plug
10 Breather valve
11 O-ring
12 Cylinder head stud
13 Locating dowel
14 Nipple
15 Plug
16 Sealing washer, thickness 2
17 Nipple
18 Mesh filter
19 Neutral switch
20 Sealing washer
21 Gear shaft
22 Washer
23 Idle gear
24 Washer
25 Circlip
26 Screw
27 Plug
28 Sealing washer
29 Sealing washer
30 Screw
31 Screw
32 Washer
33 O-ring
34 Pick-up sensor
35 Grub screw
36 Bush
37 Sealing washer
38 Ball
39 Spring
796 TIMING SYSTEM

796 FILTERS AND OIL PUMP
796 ELECTRIC STARTING AND IGNITION
796 ABS FILTERS AND OIL PUMP
796 ABS ELECTRIC STARTING AND IGNITION
Important
Removing outer components

assembly
cover
Remove the engine starting system 6 - 3, Electric starting system
covers
system assembly
Remove the cylinder heads 9 - 4.4, Removal of the cylinder
head assembly
Note
The following removal operations are required in order to renew and/or clean the crankcase halves. If the original
crankcase halves are to be reused, then the removal of these components is not essential.
Unscrew the screw (30) and remove the oil breather valve (10) with the O-rings (11). Check the condition of O-rings (11)
and renew them if necessary.
Loosen and remove the two nipples (14) from the clutch-side crankcase and recover the gaskets (8).
Unscrew and remove the oil filter cartridge (Sect. 4 - 3, Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Unscrew and remove the oil filter support nipple (17).
Remove the mesh filter (18) with its seal from the clutch-side crankcase half as described in Section 4 - 3, Changing the
engine oil and filter cartridge.
Loosen plug (27) taking care to recover the washer (28).
Remove the drain plug (9) with its seal (29).
Remove the neutral switch (19) with seal (20).
Remove the cylinder head studs (12) with the aid of the appropriate tool.
To remove the engine sensor (34), unscrew the screw (31) and recover the washer (32).
Check the condition of O-rings (33) on crankcase and renew them if necessary.
Remove the bush (36) and recover the seal (37), the spring (39) and the ball (38).
Refitting the external components

Check the condition of O-rings (11) and renew if necessary.
Install the oil vapour breather valve (10) in the crankcase along with O-rings (11), previously lubricated.
Tighten the screw (30) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings).
Fit the seals (8) on the nipples (14). Apply prescribed threadlocker on the plugs (14).
Tighten the nipples (14) to a torque of 32 Nm (Min. 29 Nm - Max. 35 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings).
Apply the recommended threadlocker to the nipple (17).

Tighten the oil filter cartridge support nipple (17) to a torque of 42 Nm (Min. 38 Nm - Max. 46 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine
torque settings).
Fit the exhaust plug (9) with the corresponding gasket (29) and tighten it to a torque of 20 Nm (Min. 18 Nm - Max. 22
Nm)
(Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings), after applying the recommended threadlocker.
Refit the neutral switch (19) and the corresponding seal (20) and tighten it to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11
Nm)
Apply threadlocker on the plug (27), fit it with the corresponding seal (28) and tighten the plug to a torque of 25 Nm
(Min. 22 Nm - Max. 28 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings).
Refit the mesh filter (18) with its seal as described in Section 4 - 3, Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge.
Install the stud screws (12) on the crankcases, applying threadlocker and tightening them to a torque of 30 Nm (Min. 28
Nm - Max. 32 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings). Use a tool similar to the one shown.
Make sure that the O-rings (33) are fitted on the crankcase.
Fit the engine pickup (34) in its seat in the crankcase half.
Fit the screw (31) with the washer (32) and tighten the screw to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm) (Sect. 3 -
3, Engine torque settings).
Use a feeler gauge to check the clearance between the engine sensor (34) and the timing gear (2). The value must be
between 0.6 and 0.8 mm.
If removed, apply prescribed threadlocker on the dowel (35), tighten the dowel to a torque of 15 Nm (Min. 13 Nm - Max.
17 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings), insert the gasket (16) on the service plug (15): the seal must be oriented so
that the square edge faces the clutch-side crankcase half. Apply the recommended threadlocker to the plug thread (15),
fit it onto the crankcase and tighten it to a torque of 15 Nm (Min. 13 Nm - Max. 17 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque
settings).
Insert the ball (38) and the spring (39) on the crankcase and screw in the bush (36) with the seal (37), tightening it to a
torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings).

assemblies assembly
Refit the cylinder heads 9 - 4.4, Refitting the cylinder head

assembly
Refit the timing belts 9 - 4.2, Refitting the timing

system assembly
covers
Refit the engine starter system 6 - 3, Electric starting system
Refit the oil pump 9 - 2.1, Refitting the oil pump
Removal of the timing gears

filter cartridge
control
sprocket
cover
Remove the flywheel/alternator 9 - 8, Removal of the
assembly flywheel/alternator assembly
Slide out driving gear (A) of timing gear pair (2).

Relieve the staking on the lock washer (3) of the nut (4) that locks timing gear in place.
Restrain the driven timing gear by inserting a pin in one of the holes, and unscrew the nut (4).
Remove the nut (4), the washer (3) and the timing driven gear (B).
Refitting the timing gears

Before refitting, check the wear on the timing gear pair (2) and renew if necessary.
Important
The timing gears (2) must always be renewed as a pair.
Check that the key (1) is correctly fitted on the timing belt driveshaft and that key (5) is correctly fitted on the
crankshaft.
Important
On completion of the refitting operations, check that tab washer (3) is staked against nut (4) in such a way as to prevent
the nut from working loose.
Refit the flywheel/alternator 9 - 8, Refitting the flywheel-

assembly alternator assembly

transmission unit

mechanism
filter cartridge
Removal of the starter motor idler gear

filter cartridge
control
sprocket
cover
Remove the circlip (25) and the washer (24).

Remove the starter idle gear (23) and the shim (22).
Unscrew the screw (26) retaining idle gear shaft (21) and remove the shaft.
Refitting the starter motor gear

Note
Apply threadlocker to the screw (26) and tighten the screw to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3,
Engine torque settings).


transmission unit

mechanism
filter cartridge
Crankcase assembly: crankcase halves
9.2 -Crankcase assembly: crankcase halves
1 Circlip
2 Timing belt driveshaft
3 Alternator crankcase half
4 Bearing
5 O-ring
6 Circlip
7 Bearing
8 Screw
9 Retaining plate
10 Bearing
11 Sealing ring
12 Bearing
13 Sealing ring
14 Bearing
15 Bearing
16 Clutch-side crankcase half
17 Spacer
18 Screw
19 Bush
20 Sealing ring
21 Bearing
22 Screw
23 Bearing
24 Grub screw
25 Screw
26 Screw
27 Roller bearing
28 Sealing ring
29 Circlip
796 TIMING SYSTEM

Important
Separation of the crankcase halves

Remove the engine from the 9 - 1, Removal of the engine
frame
Remove the clutch-side crankcase 9 - 6.2, Removal of the clutch cover
cover
assembly
Remove the primary gear 9 - 6.3, Removal of the primary drive
gear
Remove the alternator-side 9 - 8, Removal of the generator
crankcase cover cover
Remove the starter motor idler 9 - 9.1, Removal of the starter motor
gear idler gear
Remove the starter motor 6 - 3, Removal of the starter motor
Remove the side timing belt 9 - 4.2, Removal of the timing belt
covers covers
system assembly
Remove the complete cylinder 9 - 4.4, Removal of the cylinder head
head unit assembly
Remove the cylinder barrel/piston 9 - 5, Removal of the cylinder/piston
assemblies assembly
Remove the mesh filter 4 - 3, Changing the engine oil and
filter cartridge
Use two screwdrivers to remove the circlip (1) from the timing belt driveshaft (2) on the clutch-side crankcase half.
Note
Take care to avoid scoring the surface of the shaft while removing the circlip.
Unscrew the coupling screws (22), (25) and (26) securing the generator-side crankcase.
Unscrew the two screws (22) from clutch-side crankcase, near the vertical cylinder.
Reuse the generator cover or a service cover with puller 88713.1749 fitted. Secure cover to crankcase half with some of
the original screws and begin separation by turning the central pin of the tool.
Tap the end of the gearbox secondary shaft with a plastic mallet to separate the crankcase halves.
Note
Take care not to lose the shims on the shafts and on the selector drum.
Remove gearbox shafts and gear selector drum from the crankcase halves (Sect. 9 - 7.2, Removal of the gearbox
assembly).
Drive out the crankshaft (C) using a plastic mallet, taking care not to lose the shims (D).
Remove the timing belt driveshaft (2).
Remove the O-ring (5) on the oilway connecting the two crankcase halves.
Overhaul of the crankcase halves

Carefully examine the engine crankcase halves.
Check that the surfaces of the crankcases are perfectly flat using a reference surface. Check that the bearings (4) and
(23) are in good condition. Note that the main bearings must always be changed in pairs (refer to the procedure below in
“Overhauling the main bearings”).
Note
When overhauling an engine it is good practice to renew all the crankcase half bearings.
Renew the bearings (10) and (15) on the ends of the gearbox secondary shaft and timing belt driveshaft bearings (7) and
(21).
When renewing the primary shaft bearings (14) and (12), install them to the crankcase half using spacers (17) and stop
plate (9) and fasten with screws (18) and (8) respectively.
At each overhaul it is recommended to renew also the sealing ring (13) in-between bearing (12) and chain-side crankcase
half: lubricate the ring (13) with denatured alcohol, drive it fully home against the crankcase half, and orient it as shown.
At each overhaul it is recommended to renew also the oil sealing ring (11) on the outside of bearing (10) as well as oil
sealing ring (20) on the outside of bearing (21).
In the event of renewal of needle roller bearings (27) and oil seals (28) on the swingarm pivot, lubricate the seats of the
bearings and the lips of the oil seals with the recommended grease.
Install the inner sealing ring (28) as shown in figure (E) and seated against the circlip (29); the outer oil seal must also be
installed as shown in figure (E).
Use a suitable drift (see figure) to install the oil seals (28) and roller bearings (27).
Check that the oilways are free of restrictions or clogging.
The bearings (27) are to be installed with writing (F) oriented as shown in the figure
Check the condition of locating bushes (19). If apparently distorted or loose in their seats, change them using proper
tools.
When the locating bushes (19) are hard to remove from casing, use a left-hand tap to force bushes out.
Important
The bushes (19) must always be renewed when they have been removed using the above procedure.
Overhauling the main bearings

The main bearings have are of the angular contact type with offset inner races so that the balls transmit loads from one
groove to the other along straight lines at an angle to the axis of the bearing. The angle-contact ball bearings are
designed for bearing combined loading (radial-axial loads).

Bearings of this type can bear thrust loads in one direction only. In fact, under the action of a radial load inside the
bearing, an axial force is created that must be counterbalanced by an axial force acting in the opposite direction; that is
why these bearings are generally fitted back to back in pairs.
To renew the bearings proceed as follows:
- heat the crankcase half in an oven to 100 °C;
- remove the bearing using a drift and hammer;
- install the new bearing (while the crankcase is still hot) keeping it perfectly square in its seat using a tubular drift that
only bears on the outer ring of the bearing;
- allow the parts to cool and check that the bearing is securely seated in the crankcase half.
Important
On badly worn engines, bearing outer rings may have developed clearance in the crankcase halves - normally, bearing
outer rings are interference-fit in the casing.
Check that the interference fit between the crankcase and the bearings (4) and (23) installed, is not less than 0.03 mm,
otherwise, replace the crankcase halves.
Important
After installing new main bearings, shim the crankshaft as described in the paragraph “Shimming the shafts” and
“Reassembly of the crankcase halves “ of this section.
Reassembly of the crankcase halves

The crankcase halves must be in good condition and perfectly clean. The mating surfaces must be perfectly flat and free
from burrs.
Refitting the clutch-side crankcase half

The following parts must be present on the internal side of the crankcase half:
- gearbox secondary shaft bearing (15): apply grease to the bearing rollers. Fit the inner race (A) removed previously from
the bearing. Apply grease to the inner ring;
- the primary shaft bearing (14), secured with screws (18) and retaining spacer (17): apply the recommended threadlocker
to the screws (18) and tighten them to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque
settings).
- the roller bearing (21) with retaining circlip (6) installed in correspondence with the end of the timing belt driveshaft.
Refitting the alternator-side crankcase half

The following parts must be present on the internal side of the crankcase half:
- the double race ball bearing (10) supporting the selector fork shaft.
Apply threadlocker to the screws (8). Fit the retaining plate (9) to the gearbox secondary shaft bearing (10) screwing the
screws (8) fully into the chain-side crankcase half.
Note
The bearing retaining plate must be positioned so that the countersunk side is facing upwards.
Tighten the screws (8) to a torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings).
The gearbox primary shaft end bearing (12) with the inner spacer (13): apply grease to the bearing rollers.
Fit the inner race (B) removed previously from the bearing. Apply grease to the inner race.
The main bearing (4).
The ball bearing (7) with circlip (6), in correspondence with the timing belt driveshaft, oriented so that the closed side of
the plastic roller cage faces the crankcase half.
Note
Bearings do not have a specific mounting position (except main bearings); however it is good practice to install the
bearings so that side bearing the writing is facing upwards.
Shimming the shafts

Before assembling the crankcase halves, calculate the shims required to obtain the correct end float of the crankshaft and
gearbox shafts.
To determine the correct shim thickness proceed as follows.
Shimming the crankshaft

After fitting the new main bearings, proceed as follows to determine the total shim thickness “SA”:
measure the distance “LA” between the bearing contact surfaces on the crankshaft;
measure the depths “LA1” and “LA2” corresponding to the distance between contact surface of the crankcase half and the
contact surface of the inner race of the bearings.
add a preload of 0.30 mm to help seat the axial load crankshaft bearings correctly, then insert the inner race in the outer
ring.
Thus, we obtain:
SA=LA1+LA2+0.30-LA.
To calculate the thickness of each shim note that:

SA=SA1+SA2
where “SA1” and “SA2” represent the shims for the clutch-side crankcase half 1 and the alternator-side crankcase half 2.
Considering the alignment of the shaft, this gives:
SA1=LA1+0.15-LA/2;
and finally, the second shim thickness: SA2=SA-SA1.
Practical method for determining crankshaft shims

In addition to the above procedure, the following is a practical shimming method, providing a guide on how to calculate
the crankshaft shim thickness accurately.
Install a shim (A) of minimum thickness (1.90 mm) on each side of the crankshaft to prevent contact between the
crankshaft web and the engine block.
Install the crankshaft and assemble the two crankcase halves.
Install four M8 screws in the seats indicated in the figure and tighten them to a snug torque of 19 Nm (Min. 17 Nm - Max.
21 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings).
Position a dial gauge (B) with magnetic stand on a support plate fixed to the crankcase.
Bring the stylus into contact with the end of the crankshaft and set the dial gauge to zero in this position.
Place a lever (C) between crankcase and crank web of the crankshaft pushing towards dial gauge.
Note on the dial gauge the total clearance and add a preload of (0.30 mm) plus the thickness of the shims used
(1.90x2=3.8 mm).
Divide the resulting value by two to obtain the thickness of the shim packs to be installed at either end of the crankshaft.
Note
After assembling the crankcase halves, the crankshaft should turn with some interference in the new bearings.
Shimming the gearbox shafts

The following thickness spacers are supplied as spare parts.
Position Clutch side (mm) Chain side (mm)
Gearbox primary shaft 1.2 1.6

Gearbox secondary shaft 3.15 0.8
Shimming the gearbox selector drum

The following thickness spacers are supplied as spare parts.
Position Clutch side (mm) Chain side (mm)

Gear control drum 1.0 0.9
Reassembly of the crankcase halves

If it was removed, apply the recommended threadlocker to the dowel (24) and tighten it to a torque of 15 Nm (Min. 13
Nm - Max. 17 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings).
Install the timing belt driveshaft (2) in the roller bearing (21) in the clutch-side crankcase half.
To avoid damaging the oil sealing ring (20) on the timing belt driveshaft, protect the threaded end of the shaft with the
special protective cap 88700.5749. Dampen the oil sealing ring (20) with alcohol and fit it on the timing belt driveshaft,
seating it against the roller bearing (21).
Fit the circlip (1) in the groove on the shaft and remove the protective cap.
Note
When refitting used components, before installing the gearbox assembly in the crankcase half, make sure that the inner
races (A) of the gearbox shaft bearings are fitted into the correct bearings and have not been left on the shafts.
Mesh the gearbox shafts and install them on the clutch-side crankcase half with the calculated shims.
Insert the 1ª- 4ª e 2ª- 3ª speed selector forks (B) in their respective channels in the driven gears of the secondary shaft.
Note
The two selector forks are identical.
Insert the 5ª- 6ª speed selector fork (C) in the driven gear of the primary shaft.
Install the selector drum (D) in the crankcase half with calculated shim thickness.
Fit the pins (E) in the previously installed selector forks.
Fit the shimmed crankshaft into the clutch-side crankcase half, positioning the connecting rods (E) in correspondence with
the relative cylinder barrel seats.
Check that the two locating bushes (19) are correctly fitted.
Grease the O-ring (5) to hold it in position and install it on the oil way connecting the two crankcase halves.
Important
Make sure that the connecting rods (E) are correctly positioned in the respective cylinder seats. Incorrect positioning of
the connecting rods at this stage will inevitably lead to the need to re-open the crankcase halves.
Apply a uniform and continuous bead of DUCATI liquid gasket to the mating surfaces of the crankcase halves, going
around all the holes as shown in the figure.
Bring the crankcase halves (3) and (16) together, tapping with a rubber mallet in the area of the shafts if necessary.
Prepare the crankcase screws and insert them in the alternator-side crankcase half (3); note that the screws are of
different lengths.
Ref. Qty Description
Progressively tighten the crankcase screws until fully seated, starting with the screws of the largest diameter (M8).
Insert two M8 screws (22) in the clutch-side crankcase half (16).
Tighten all the screws to the following torque (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings):
- the screws (22) first to a snug torque of 19 Nm (Min. 17 Nm - Max. 21 Nm), then to a tightening torque of 25 Nm (Min.
22 Nm - Max. 28 Nm);
- the screws (25) and (26) to a tightening torque of 10 Nm (Min. 9 Nm - Max. 11 Nm).
Check that the crankshaft can be turned with a certain amount of interference with the main bearings (the crankshaft
should have a pre-load of 0.15 to 0.20 mm); check also that all the parts you have fitted are free to rotate or move
correctly.
Fit the sealing ring (11) on the gearbox secondary shaft using the suitable tool (T).

Refit the mesh filter 4 - 3, Changing the engine oil and
filter cartridge
assemblies assembly
Refit the complete cylinder head 9 - 4.4, Refitting the cylinder head
unit assembly
assembly

covers
Refit the starter motor 6 - 3, Refitting the starter motor
Refit the starter motor idler gear 9 - 9.1, Refitting the starter motor
gear
Refit the alternator-side 9 - 8, Refitting the generator cover
crankcase cover
Refit the primary gear 9 - 6.3, Refitting the primary drive
Refit the clutch-side crankcase 9 - 6.2, Refitting the clutch cover
cover
Crankcase assembly: crankshaft/connecting rods assembly
9.3 -Crankcase assembly: crankshaft/connecting rods assembly
1 Crankshaft
2 Drilled grub screw
3 Plug
4 Grub screw
5 Connecting rod assembly
6 Bush
7 Half bearing
8 Banjo bolt
9 Shim washer
10 Key
796 CONNECTING RODS

796 ABS CONNECTING RODS
Important
Removal of the crankshaft/connecting rods assembly

Remove the clutch-side crankcase 9 - 6.2, Removal of the clutch cover
cover
assembly
Remove the primary gear 9 - 6.3, Removal of the primary
drive gear
Remove the alternator-side 9 - 8, Removal of the generator
crankcase cover cover
Remove the starter motor idler 9 - 9.1, Removal of the starter
gear motor idler gear
Remove the starter motor 6 - 3, Removal of the starter motor
covers
system assembly
Remove the complete cylinder head 9 - 4.4, Removal of the cylinder
unit head assembly
Remove the mesh filter 4 - 3, Changing the engine oil and
filter cartridge
Separate the crankcase halves 9 - 9.2, Separation of the
crankcase halves
After separating the crankcase halves, withdraw the crankshaft (1) complete with connecting rods (5).
Disassembly of the crankshaft/connecting rods assembly

Unscrew the screws (8) and separate the connecting rods (5) from the crankshaft (1).
Important
Take care not to mix up components of different connecting rods and maintain the original orientation.
Overhaul of the connecting rods

Make the following dimensional checks on the connecting rods:
- clearance with gudgeon pin on assembly (Sect. 3 - 1.1, Cylinder/Piston).
In the event of excessive wear, replace the connecting rod. The small end bushing must be in good condition and firmly
driven into its seat. Check for parallelism error measured at 100 mm from the connecting rod longitudinal axis:
the value must be H-h less than 0.02 mm; otherwise, renew the connecting rod.
The cylinder head diameter must be within the specified values (Sect. 3 - 1.1, Cylinder/Piston).
It is preferable to use crankshafts and connecting rods of the same size class.
Renewal of the connecting rod bearings

It is good practice to renew the bearings (7) each time the engine is overhauled.
Replacement bearings are supplied ready for assembly and they must not be reworked with scrapers or emery cloth.
Renewal of the small end bushing

To renew the bushing (6) use the tool shown in figure to simultaneously drive out the old bushing and install the new one
(A).
Position the new small-end bushing so that the split is at 90° relative to the upper hole in the small-end.
Drill lubrication holes into the new bushing in correspondence with the existing lubrication holes on the connecting rod
small end.
Now ream out the bushing until the inside diameter (D) is 18.006 to 18.024 mm.
Crankshaft overhaul
The main bearing and big-end journals should not be scored or grooved.
The threads, tongue seats, and slots must be in good condition.
Check for fretting or burrs in the fillet between journal and shoulder.
Fillet radius: 1.5 mm.
With the aid of a micrometer, measure the ovality and taper of the big-end journals, taking the measurements in various
different directions (Sect. 3 - 1.1, Cylinder/Piston).
Use a dial gauge to measure the alignment of the main journals by setting the crankshaft between two opposing centres
(Sect. 3 - 1.1, Cylinder/Piston).
Unscrew all the plugs (4), (3) and (2) from the crankshaft; heating the crankshaft, if necessary, to remove the
threadlocker applied at the time of assembly.
Use a hot air gun that can reach 150 °C.
Clean all the oilways using suitable diameter metal brushes and then blow with compressed air to remove any residues
that have accumulated and are restricting the oil flow.
Apply the recommended threadlocker to the threads of plugs (3), (4) and (2) and refit them.
Tighten the plugs (2) and (4) to a torque of 13 Nm (Min. 11 Nm - Max. 15 Nm) and the plug (2) to a torque of 15 Nm
(Min. 13.5 Nm - Max. 16.5 Nm) (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine torque settings).
Big-end bearing shell-journal clearance

To check the assembly clearance between the bearing shells and crankshaft journals you will lay a strip (A) of GREEN
“Plastigage PG-1” on the journal.
Fit the connecting rod with the original big-end bearing shells (7) (see procedure on next page) and tighten the screws
(8) to a torque of 49 Nm.
Remove the connecting rod and compare the thickness of the Plastigage strip to the scale (B).
If the width measured corresponding to the existing clearance is not within the prescribed limit (Big-end bearing-to-
crankpin clearance paragraph under Sect. 3 - 1.1, Cylinder/Piston), either the bearings or the crankshaft must be
replaced.
Reassembly of the connecting rods

Before starting, check that the crankshaft main bearing journals and big-end journals are free of burrs or evident signs of
machining: if necessary, clean the surfaces with very fine emery cloth and oil.
Check that the grooves are in perfect condition with no signs of forcing.
Check that each connecting rod and cap are equipped with their locating pins (A).
Wash the pins and dry them with compressed air.

Clean and lubricate the journals and con-rod bearing shells with engine oil and fit the con-rods in their original mounting
positions.
Fit the caps to the corresponding connecting rods. Make sure that the mark on the cap is the on the same side as the
mark on the connecting rod.
Use the recommended grease to lubricate the threads and underside of the heads of the new screws (8) and the threaded
hole in the connecting rod, packing in grease from both sides of the hole.
Warning
The grease utilised is an irritant in contact with the skin. Wear protective gloves.
Important
Lubrication of big-end cap screws is essential to obtain the correct coupling and to prevent breakage of the parts.
The big-end cap screws may only be used for one tightening.
Temporarily fit the gudgeon pin (L) to align the connecting rods, and then tighten the screws.
Fit the spacer (H) of the tool 88713.2878 between the connecting rods and take up residual axial clearance with the fork
feeler gauge (I) of the tool 88713.2878 which is available in the following thicknesses:
- 0.1 mm - 0.2 mm - 0.3 mm.
Use the torque wrench, as shown in the picture, to tighten the screws (8) to the torque here below (Sect. 3 - 3, Engine
torque settings):
- tighten to a torque of 35 Nm;
- wait 2 seconds and then back off through 360°;
- initial tightening to 20 Nm;
- tightening to 35 Nm;
- tightening to 65 ±1
- torque check 70 to 103 Nm.
Withdraw the feeler gauge and check that the connecting rod/crankshaft end float is: 0.15 to 0.35 mm.
Refitting the crankshaft/connecting rod assembly

Install the connecting rod assembly in the crankcase half, carry out the shimming procedure as described in Sect. 9 - 9.2,
Shimming the shafts.
Important
Make sure that the connecting rods (5) are correctly positioned in the respective cylinder seats. Incorrect positioning of
the connecting rods at this stage will inevitably lead to the need to re-open the crankcase halves.

Reassemble the engine crankcase 9 - 9.2, Reassembly of the
halves crankcase halves
Refit the mesh filter 4 - 3, Changing the engine oil and
filter cartridge
assemblies assembly
Refit the complete cylinder head 9 - 4.4, Refitting the cylinder head
unit assembly
assembly
covers
Refit the starter motor 6 - 3, Refitting the starter motor
Refit the starter motor idler gear 9 - 9.1, Refitting the starter motor
gear
Refit the alternator-side crankcase 9 - 8, Refitting the generator cover
cover
Refit the primary gear 9 - 6.3, Refitting the primary drive
Refit the clutch-side crankcase 9 - 6.2, Refitting the clutch cover
cover

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1 - General

2 - Symbols - Abbreviations - References 5

3 - Hazardous Products - Warnings 8

2 - Fuel, lubricants and other fluids 10

2 - Routine maintenance table 4

4 - Front and rear mudguard 20

2 - Battery charging system 48

3 - Electric starting system 66

4 - Lights and indicating devices 76

6 - Protection and safety devices 93

8 - immobilizer and transponder 129

10 - Description of the system 132

11 - Fuel injection - ignition system 139

12 - System components 140

13 - Diagnostic instruments 158

3 - Front brake control 18

4 - Rear brake control 29

5 - ABS system information 41

ABS system operating information 42

7 - ABS components maintenance 65

8.1 - Handlebar unit: Throttle twistgrip 68

8.2 - Handlebar unit: clutch lever 74

10.1 - Fork - steering head: front fork 88

10.2 - Fork - steering head: Steering 104

12 - Rear shock absorber assembly 117

13 - Rear swingarm 123

Removal of the rear brake disc 127

14 - Final drive 142

15 - Footrest brackets 151

17 - Frame inspection 165

18 - Tail light-number plate holder and locks 177

Refitting the throttle body 25

10 - Evaporative emissions canister 58

2.1 - Lubrication system: oil pump 9

2.2 - Lubrication system: oil cooler 14

4.1 - Cylinder head assemblies: checks and adjustments 22

4.2 - Cylinder head assemblies: timing belt covers/timing system 29

4.3 - Cylinder head assemblies: camshafts 45

Inspecting the camshafts 57

4.4 - Cylinder head assemblies: valves - rocker arms 63

6.1 - Clutch assembly: APTC wet clutch 98

6.2 - Clutch assembly: clutch cover 110

6.3 - Clutch assembly: primary drive gears 116

7.1 - Gearbox assembly: gearchange mechanism 122

7.2 - Gearbox assembly: gearbox shafts 131

8 - Flywheel - alternator 152

9.1 - Crankcase assembly: external components 174

9.2 - Crankcase assembly: crankcase halves 189

9.3 - Crankcase assembly: crankshaft/connecting rods assembly 208

2 - Symbols - Abbreviations - References 5

3 - Hazardous Products - Warnings 8

1 -How to use this manual

Ducati Motor Holding S.p.A.

Layout of the manual

2 -Symbols - Abbreviations - References

Symbol Specifications Recommended product

DOT 4 special hydraulic brake fluid. SHELL

SAE 80-90 gear oil or special products for chains SHELL

Anti-freeze (nitride, amine and phosphate free) SHELL

GREASE A Multipurpose, medium fibre, lithium grease. SHELL Alvania R3

GREASE B Molybdenum disulphide grease, high mechanical SHELL

GREASE C Bearing/joint grease for parts subject to SHELL

GREASE E PANKL grease - PLB 05.

GREASE F OPTIMOL grease - PASTE WHITE T.