Coordinates: 27°42′09″N 88°08′48″E

Kangchenjunga
Kangchenjunga, also spelled Kanchenjunga, is the third highest
Kangchenjunga
mountain in the world. It rises with an elevation of 8,586 m (28,169 ft) in
a section of the Himalayas called Kangchenjunga Himal delimited in the
west by the Tamur River, in the north by the Lhonak Chu and Jongsang
La, and in the east by the Teesta River.[3][1] It lies between Nepal and
Sikkim, India, with three of the five peaks (Main, Central, and South)
directly on the border,[4] and the remaining two (West and Kangbachen)
in Nepal's Taplejung District.[5]

Until 1852, Kangchenjunga was assumed to be the highest mountain in

the world, but calculations based on various readings and measurements Kangchenjunga viewed from Tiger Hill,
made by the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India in 1849 came to the Darjeeling, India
conclusion that Mount Everest, known as Peak XV at the time, was the Highest point
highest. Allowing for further verification of all calculations, it was Elevation 8,586 m (28,169 ft) [1]
officially announced in 1856 that Kangchenjunga is the third highest Ranked 3rd

mountain in the world.[6] Prominence 3,922 m (12,867 ft) [2]

Ranked 29th
Kangchenjunga was first climbed on 25 May 1955 by Joe Brown and Isolation 124 kilometres (77 mi)
George Band, who were part of a British expedition. They stopped short Listing Eight-thousander
of the summit in accordance with the promise given to the Chogyal that Seven Third Summits
the top of the mountain would remain intact. Every climber or climbing List of mountains in India
group that has reached the summit has followed this tradition.[7] Other List of mountains in Nepal
members of this expedition included John Angelo Jackson and Tom Country high point (India)
Mackinon.[8] Ultra-prominent peak
Coordinates 27°42′09″N 88°08′48″E [2]
Geography

Contents
Names
Protected areas
Geography
Climbing routes
Climbing history
Early reconnaissances and attempts
First ascent
Other notable ascents
Tourism
Kangchenjunga
In myth
In literature
Further reading
See also
References
 External links

Names
Kangchenjunga is the official spelling adopted by Douglas Freshfield,
Alexander Mitchell Kellas, and the Royal Geographical Society that
gives the best indication of the Tibetan pronunciation. Freshfield referred
to the spelling used by the Indian Government since the late 19th
century.[3] There are a number of alternative spellings including
Kangchendzönga, Khangchendzonga, and Kanchenjunga.[9][10][11]

The brothers Hermann, Adolf and Robert Schlagintweit explained the

local name 'Kanchinjínga' meaning “The five treasures of the high snow”
as originating from the Tibetan word "gangs" pronounced [kaŋ] meaning
snow, ice; "chen" pronounced [tɕen] meaning great; "mzod" meaning
treasure; "lnga" meaning five.[12]

Local Lhopo people believe that the treasures are hidden but reveal to the
Location of Kangchenjunga
devout when the world is in peril; the treasures comprise salt, gold,
turquoise and precious stones, sacred scriptures, invincible armor or
ammunition, grain, and medicine.[13]
Kangchenjunga
Kangchenjunga's name in the Limbu language is Senjelungma or
Seseylungma, and is believed to be an abode of the omnipotent goddess
Yuma Sammang.[14]

Its name in Chinese is 干城章嘉峰 (Gānchéng zhāngjiāfēng).

Protected areas
The Kangchenjunga landscape is a complex of three distinct ecoregions:
the eastern Himalayan broad-leaved and coniferous forests, the Eastern Kangchenjunga (Province No. 1)
Himalayan alpine shrub and meadows, and the Terai-Duar savanna and
grasslands.[15] The Kangchenjunga transboundary landscape is shared by
Bhutan, China, India, and Nepal, and comprises 14 protected areas with a
total of 6,032 km2 (2,329 sq mi):[16]

Nepal: Kanchenjunga Conservation Area.

Sikkim, India: Khangchendzonga National Park, Barsey
Rhododendron Sanctuary, Fambong Lho Wildlife Sanctuary, Kangchenjunga
Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary, Maenam Wildlife Sanctuary,
Shingba Rhododendron Sanctuary, Pangolakha Wildlife
Sanctuary
Darjeeling, India: Jore Pokhri Wildlife Sanctuary, Singalila
National Park, Senchal Wildlife Sanctuary, Mahananda
Wildlife Sanctuary, Neora Valley National Park. Kangchenjunga (Asia)
Bhutan: Torsa Strict Nature Reserve
Location Taplejung District, Nepal;
These protected areas are habitats for many globally significant plant Sikkim, India[2]
species such as rhododendrons and orchids and many endangered Parent range Himalayas
flagship species such as snow leopard, Asian black bear, red panda, Climbing
white-bellied musk deer, blood pheasant, and chestnut-breasted
partridge.[16] First ascent 25 May 1955 by
Joe Brown and George Band
(First winter ascent 11
Geography January 1986 Jerzy
Kukuczka and Krzysztof
Wielicki)
Easiest route glacier/snow/ice climb

Panorama of the Kangchenjunga massif from Tiger Hill, Darjeeling

The Kangchenjunga Himal section of the Himalayas lies both in Nepal and India and encompasses 16 peaks over 7,000 m
(23,000 ft). In the north, it is limited by the Lhonak Chu, Goma Chu, and Jongsang La, and in the east by the Teesta River. The
western limit runs from the Jongsang La down the Gingsang and Kangchenjunga glaciers and the rivers of Ghunsa and Tamur.[1]
Kanchenjunga rises about 20 km (12 mi) south of the general alignment of the Great Himalayan range about 125 km (78 mi) east-
southeast of Mount Everest as the crow flies. South of the southern face of Kanchenjunga runs the 3,000–3,500 m (9,800–
11,500 ft) high Singalila Ridge that separates Sikkim from Nepal and northern West Bengal.[17]

Kangchenjunga and its satellite peaks form a huge mountain massif.[18] The massif's five highest peaks are listed in the following
table.
 Nearest
Height Height Prominence Prominence Location
Name of peak Location Higher
(m) (ft) (m) (ft) (political)
Neighbor
North
Sikkim,
Sikkim,
Mount
Kangchenjunga 27°42′11″N India /
8,586 28,169 3,922 12,867 Everest –
Main[2] 88°08′52″E
South Summit
Taplejung,
Province
No. 1,
Nepal

Kangchenjunga Taplejung,
West (Yalung 27°42′18″N Province
8,505 27,904 135 443 Kangchenjunga
88°08′12″E No. 1,
Kang)[19]
Nepal
North
Sikkim,
Sikkim,
Kangchenjunga 27°41′46″N Kangchenjunga India /
8,482 27,828 32 105
Central[20] 88°09′04″E South Taplejung,
Province
No. 1,
Nepal
North
Sikkim,
Sikkim,
Kangchenjunga 27°41′30″N India /
8,494 27,867 119 390 Kangchenjunga
South[21] 88°09′15″E Taplejung,
Province
No. 1,
Nepal
Taplejung,
27°42′42″N Kangchenjunga Province
Kangbachen[22] 7,903 25,928 103 337
88°06′30″E West No. 1,
Nepal

The main ridge of the massif runs from north-northeast to south-southwest and
forms a watershed to several rivers.[18] Together with ridges running roughly
from east to west they form a giant cross.[3] These ridges contain a host of peaks
between 6,000 and 8,586 m (19,685 and 28,169 ft). The northern section
includes Yalung Kang, Kangchenjunga Central and South, Kangbachen, Kirat
Chuli, and Gimmigela Chuli, and runs up to the Jongsang La. The eastern ridge
in Sikkim includes Siniolchu. The southern section runs along the Nepal-Sikkim
border and includes Kabru I to III.[1] This ridge extends southwards to the
Singalila Ridge.[23] The western ridge culminates in the Kumbhakarna, also
known as Jannu.[1]

Four main glaciers radiate from the peak, pointing roughly to the northeast, Kangchenjunga map by Garwood,
southeast, northwest, and southwest. The Zemu glacier in the northeast and the 1903[3]
Talung glacier in the southeast drain to the Teesta River; the Yalung glacier in the
southwest and the Kangchen glacier in the northwest drain to the Arun and Kosi
rivers.[24] The glaciers spread over the area above approximately 5,000 m (16,000 ft), and the glacialized area covers about
314 km2 (121 sq mi) in total.[25] There are 120 glaciers in the Kanchenjunga Himal, of which 17 are debris-covered. Between
1958 and 1992, more than half of 57 examined glaciers had retreated, possibly due to rising of air temperature.[26]
Kangchenjunga Main is the highest elevation of the Brahmaputra River basin,
which forms part of the southeast Asian monsoon regime and is among the
globally largest river basins.[27] Kangchenjunga is one of six peaks above
8,000 m (26,000 ft) located in the basin of the Koshi river, which is among the
largest tributaries of the Ganges.[28] The Kangchenjunga massif forms also part
of the Ganges Basin.[29]

Although it is the third highest peak in the world, Kangchenjunga is only ranked Southwest (Yalung) face of
29th by topographic prominence, a measure of a mountain's independent stature. Kangchenjunga seen from Nepal
The key col for Kangchenjunga lies at a height of 4,664 metres (15,302 ft), along
the watershed boundary between Arun and Brahmaputra rivers in Tibet.[30] It is
however, the 4th most prominent peak in the Himalaya, after Everest, and the western and eastern anchors of the Himalaya,
Nanga Parbat, and Namcha Barwa, respectively.[31]

Climbing routes
There are four climbing routes to reach the summit of Kangchenjunga, three of
which are in Nepal from the southwest, northwest, and northeast, and one from
northeastern Sikkim in India. To date, the northeastern route from Sikkim has
been successfully used only three times. The Indian government has banned
expeditions to Kanchenjunga; therefore, this route has been closed since
2000.[32]

Climbing history
Kanchenjunga-north from base camp
in Nepal
Early reconnaissances and attempts
Between April 1848 and February 1849, Joseph Dalton Hooker
explored parts of northern Sikkim and eastern Nepal, mainly to
collect plants and study the distribution of Himalayan flora. He was
based in Darjeeling, and made repeated excursions in the river
valleys and into the foothills of Kangchenjunga up to an altitude of
15,620 ft (4,760 m).[35]
In spring 1855, the German explorer Hermann Schlagintweit
travelled to Darjeeling but was not allowed to proceed further north
due to the Nepalese-Tibetan War. In May, he explored the Singalila
Ridge up to the peak of Tonglo for a meteorological survey.[33]
In 1879, Sarat Chandra Das and Lama Ugyen-gyatso crossed into Painting of Kanchinjínga as seen
Tibet west of "Kanchanjinga" via eastern Nepal and the Tashilhunpo from the Singalila Ridge by Hermann
Monastery en route to Lhasa. They returned along the same route in Schlagintweit, 1855[33]
1881.[36]
In 1883, a party of William Woodman Graham together with two
Swiss mountaineers climbed in the area of Kangchenjunga. They were the first who ascended Kabru within 30–
40 ft (9.1–12.2 m) below the summit. They crossed the Kang La pass and climbed a peak of nearly 19,000 ft
(5,800 m) from which they examined Jannu. They concluded it was too late in the year for an attempt and
returned once again to Darjeeling.[37]
Between October 1885 and January 1886, Rinzin Namgyal surveyed the unexplored north and west sides of
Kangchenjunga. He was the first native surveyor to map the circuit of Kangchenjunga and provided sketches of
each side of the peak and the adjoining valleys. He also defined the frontiers of Nepal, Tibet, and Sikkim in this
area.[38]
In 1899, British mountaineer Douglas Freshfield set out with his party comprising the Italian photographer Vittorio
Sella. They were the first mountaineers to examine the lower and upper ramparts, and the great western face of
Kangchenjunga, rising from the Kangchenjunga Glacier.[3]
 In 1905, a party headed by Aleister Crowley made the first attempt at
climbing the mountain. Aleister Crowley had been part of the team
attempting the 1902 ascent of K2. The team reached an estimated
altitude of 6,500 m (21,300 ft) on the southwest side of the mountain
before turning back. The exact height reached is somewhat unclear;
Crowley stated that on 31 August, "We were certainly over 21,000 ft
(6,400 m) and possibly over 22,000 ft (6,700 m)", when the team
was forced to retreat to Camp 5 by the risk of avalanche. On 1
September, they evidently went further; some members of the team,
Reymond, Pache, and Salama, "got over the bad patch" that had
forced them to return to Camp 5 the day before, and progressed "out
of sight and hearing" before returning to Crowley and the men with
packs, who could not cross the dangerous section unassisted with
their burdens. It is not clear how far Reymond, Pache, and Salama
had ascended – but in summarizing, Crowley ventured "We had
reached a height of approximately 25,000 ft (7,600 m)." Attempting a
"mutinous" late-in-the-day descent from Camp 5 to Camp 4, climber Sunset on Kangchenjunga, 1905[34]
Alexis Pache (who earlier that day had been one of three to ascend
possibly higher than any before), and three local porters, were killed
in an avalanche. Despite the insistence of one of the men that "The
demon of Kangchenjunga was propitiated with the sacrifice",
Crowley decided enough was enough and that it was inappropriate
to continue.[34]
In 1907, two Norwegians set about climbing Jongri via the Kabru
glacier to the south, an approach apparently rejected by Graham's
party. Progress was very slow, partly because of problems with
supplies and porters, and presumably also lack of fitness and
acclimatisation. However, from a high camp at about 22,600 ft
(6,900 m) they were eventually able to reach a point 50 or 60 ft (15
or 18 m) below the summit before they were turned back by strong
winds.[37] South face of Kangchenjunga seen
In 1929, the German Paul Bauer led an expedition team that from Goecha La, Sikkim at 4,940 m
reached 7,400 m (24,300 ft) on the northeast spur before being
(16,210 ft)
turned back by a five-day storm.[39]
In May 1929, the American E. F. Farmer left Darjeeling with native
porters, crossed the Kang La into Nepal and climbed up towards the
Talung Saddle. When his porters refused to go any further, he
climbed alone further upwards through drifting mists but did not
return.[18]
In 1930, Günter Dyhrenfurth led an international expedition
comprising the German Uli Wieland, Austrian Erwin Schneider, and
Englishman Frank Smythe who attempted to climb Kangchenjunga.
They failed because of poor weather and snow conditions.[18]
In 1931, Paul Bauer led a second German expedition team who
attempted the northeast spur before being turned back by bad
weather, illnesses, and deaths. The team retreated after climbing
Kangchenjunga seen from Darjeeling
only a little higher than the 1929 attempt.[39]
War Memorial
In 1954, John Kempe led a party comprising J. W. Tucker, S. R.
Jackson, G. C. Lewis, T. H. Braham and medical officer D. S.
Mathews. They explored the upper Yalung glacier with the intention
to discover a practicable route to the great ice-shelf that runs across the southwest face of Kangchenjunga.[40]
This reconnaissance led to the route used by the successful 1955 expedition.[41]

First ascent
In 1955, Joe Brown and George Band made the first ascent on 25 May, followed by Norman Hardie and Tony Streather on 26
May. The full team also included John Clegg (team doctor), Charles Evans (team leader), John Angelo Jackson, Neil Mather, and
Tom Mackinnon.
The ascent proved that Aleister Crowley's 1905 route (also investigated by the
1954 reconnaissance) was viable. The route starts on the Yalung Glacier to the
southwest of the peak, and climbs the Yalung Face, which is 3,000 metres
(10,000 ft) high. The main feature of this face is the "Great Shelf", a large
sloping plateau at around 7,500 metres (24,600 ft), covered by a hanging glacier.
The route is almost entirely on snow, glacier, and one icefall; the summit ridge
itself can involve a small amount of travel on rock. The first ascent expedition
made six camps above their base camp, two below the Shelf, two on it, and two
above it. They started on 18 April, and everyone was back to base camp by 28 A sign board on the last traversable
road to Kangchenjunga
May.[42]

Other notable ascents

1973 Yutaka Ageta and Takeo Matsuda of the Japanese expedition
summitted Kangchenjunga West (Yalung Kang) by climbing the SW
Ridge.
1977 The second ascent of Kangchenjunga, by an Indian Army team
led by Colonel Narendra Kumar. They completed the northeast spur,
the difficult ridge that defeated German expeditions in 1929 and
1931.
1978 Polish teams made the first successful ascents of the summits
Kangchenjunga South (Wojciech Wróż and Eugeniusz Chrobak, 19
First ascent reunion of 1990– front
May) and Kangchenjunga Central (Wojciech Brański, Zygmunt
Andrzej Heinrich, Kazimierz Olech, 22 May).[43] (left to right): Neil Mather, John
Angelo Jackson, Charles Evans and
1979 The third ascent, on 16 May, and the first without oxygen, by
Doug Scott, Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker establishing a new Joe Brown and rear (left to right):
route on the North Ridge.[44] Tony Streather, Norman Hardie,
1982 The 6th of May sees Ang Dorje, Friedel Mutschlechner, and George Band, and Professor John
Reinhold Messner (suffering from amoebic liver abscess) reach the Clegg.
top by a variation on the North Face route without supplemental
oxygen.
1983 Pierre Beghin made the first solo ascent. It was accomplished
without the use of supplemental oxygen.
1986 On 11 January, Krzysztof Wielicki and Jerzy Kukuczka, Polish
climbers, made the first winter ascent. Otto Guilherme
Gerstenberger Junior (Brazilian) and Johann Krigeer (South African)
reach the peak without using supplemental oxygen.
1988 First successful American Expedition; led by Carlos Buhler,
from the North Face. Summiting were Buhler, Peter Habeler
(Austrian), and Martin Zabaleta (Spanish)
1989 A Soviet expedition successfully traversed all four summits of
Kangchenjunga that are higher than 8,000m. Two separate teams The sunrise over the Mount
traversed the summits in opposite directions. Kangchenjunga at Pelling, Sikkim,
1989 American Expedition led by Lou Whittaker, with six people India
summiting on the Northwall: George Dunn, Craig van Hoy, Ed
Viesturs, Phil Ershler, Larry Nielson, Greg Wilson.
1991 Slovenian Marija Frantar and Joze Rozman attempted the first ascent by a woman. Their bodies were later
found below the summit headwall.
1991 Slovenian Andrej Štremfelj and Marko Prezelj completed an alpine-style climb up the south ridge of
Kangchenjunga to the south summit (8,494 m).
1992 Carlos Carsolio made the only summit that year. It was in a solo climb without supplementary oxygen.[45]
1992 Wanda Rutkiewicz, the first woman in the world to ascend and descend K2 and a world-renowned Polish
climber, died after she insisted on waiting for an incoming storm to pass, which she did not survive.
1995 Benoît Chamoux, Pierre Royer and their Sherpa guide disappeared on 6 October near the summit.
1998 Ginette Harrison was the first woman who climbed Kangchenjunga North face.[46]
 2005 Alan Hinkes, a British climber, was the only person to summit
in the 50th anniversary of the first ascent year, and it marked his
14th eight-thousander.
2006 Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, an Austrian mountaineer, was the
second woman to reach the summit.
2009 Jon Gangdal and Mattias Karlsson reached the summit,
becoming, respectively, the first Norwegian and the first Swedish
mountaineer to summit this mountain.
2009 Edurne Pasaban, a Spanish mountaineer, reached the summit
becoming the first woman to summit twelve eight-thousanders.[47]
In May 2009, Kinga Baranowska was the first Polish woman to reach Kangchenjunga 3D
the summit of Kangchenjunga.[48]
2011 Tunc Findik became the first Turkish man to reach the peak of
Kangchenjunga, his seventh eight thousander, with Swiss partner Guntis Brandts via the British 1955 SW Face
route.[49][50]
2011 Indian mountaineers Basanta Singha Roy and Debasish Biswas of Mountaineers' Association of
Krishnanagar (MAK), West Bengal, India, successfully scaled Kangchenjunga Main on 20 May 2011.[51]
In May 2013, five climbers including Hungarian Zsolt Erőss and Péter Kiss reached the summit, but disappeared
during the descent.[52]
In May 2014, Bulgarian Boyan Petrov reached the peak without the use of supplemental oxygen. Petrov is a
diabetic.[53][54]
In May 2014, Chhanda Gayen became the first Indian woman to summit, although she was killed by an
avalanche on the descent.[55]
Despite improved climbing gear the fatality rate of climbers attempting to summit Kanchenjunga is high. Since the 1990s, more
than 20% of people died while climbing Kanchenjunga's main peak.[56]

Tourism
Because of its remote location in Nepal and the difficulty involved in accessing
it from India, the Kangchenjunga region is not much explored by trekkers. It has,
therefore, retained much of its pristine beauty. In Sikkim too, trekking into the
Kangchenjunga region has just recently been permitted. The Goecha La trek is
gaining popularity amongst tourists. It goes to the Goecha La Pass, located right
in front of the huge southeast face of Kangchenjunga. Another trek to Green
Lake Basin has recently been opened for trekking. This trek goes to the
Northeast side of Kangchenjunga along the famous Zemu Glacier. The film
The Kangchenjunga Mountain Range
Singalila in the Himalaya is journey around Kangchenjunga.
as seen from Tiger Hill, Darjeeling

In myth
The area around Kangchenjunga is said to be home to a mountain deity, called
Dzö-nga[57] or "Kangchenjunga Demon", a type of yeti or rakshasa. A British
geological expedition in 1925 spotted a bipedal creature which they asked the
locals about, who referred to it as the "Kangchenjunga Demon".[58]

For generations, there have been legends recounted by the inhabitants of the
areas surrounding Mount Kanchenjunga, both in Sikkim and in Nepal, that there
is a valley of immortality hidden on its slopes. These stories are well known to
both the original inhabitants of the area, the Lepcha people, and those of the Kanchenjunga as seen from
Tibetan Buddhist cultural tradition. In Tibetan, this valley is known as Beyul Gangtok, Sikkim
Demoshong. In 1962 a Tibetan Lama by the name of Tulshuk Lingpa led over
300 followers into the high snow slopes of Kanchenjunga to ‘open the way’ to
Beyul Demoshong. The story of this expedition is recounted in the 2011 book A
Step Away from Paradise.[59]

In literature
In the Swallows and Amazons series of books by Arthur Ransome, a
high mountain (unnamed in the books, but clearly based on the Old Five Treasures of Snow
Man of Coniston in the English Lake District) is given the name
"Kanchenjunga" by the children when they climb it in 1931.
In The Epic of Mount Everest, first published in 1926, Sir Francis
Younghusband: " For natural beauty Darjiling (Darjeeling) is surely
unsurpassed in the world. From all countries travellers come there to
see the famous view of Kangchenjunga, 28,150 feet (8,580 m) in
height, and only 40 miles (64 km) distant. Darjiling (Darjeeling) itself
is 7,000 feet (2,100 m) above sea-level and is set in a forest of oaks,
magnolia, rhododendrons, laurels and sycamores. And through
these forests, the observer looks down the steep mountain-sides to
the Rangeet River only 1,000 feet (300 m) above sea-level, and then
up and up through tier after tier of forest-clad ranges, each bathed in
a haze of deeper and deeper purple, till the line of snow is reached;
East face of Kangchenjunga, from
and then still up to the summit of Kangchenjunga, now so pure and
ethereal we can scarcely believe it is part of the solid earth on which near the Zemu Glacier, Sikkim
we stand; and so high it seems part of the very sky itself."
In 1999, official James Bond author Raymond Benson published
High Time to Kill. In this story, a microdot containing a secret formula for aviation technology is stolen by a
society called the Union. During their escape, their plane crashes on the slopes of Kangchenjunga. James Bond
becomes part of a climbing expedition in order to retrieve the formula.
The Inheritance of Loss by Kiran Desai, which won the 2006 Man Booker Prize, is set partly in Kalimpong, a hill
station situated near Kangchenjunga.
In Legend of the Galactic Heroes by Yoshiki Tanaka, which won the Seiun Award for "Best Novel of the Year" in
1988 and was adapted into an anime series by Kitty Films, the capital and holiest temple of the Terraist Cult is on
Earth beneath the rubble of Kangchenjunga.
Michelle Paver's 2016 ghost story Thin Air concerns a fictional expedition to climb Kangchenjunga in 1935, and
an earlier (also fictional) expedition in 1906.
The book Round Kangchenjunga – A Narrative of Mountain Travel and Exploration by Douglas Freshfield gives a
complete account of his travel around Kangchenjunga.

Further reading
Joseph Dalton Hooker 1855. Himalayan Journals. Assistant-director
of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew.
Laurence Waddell 1899. Among The Himalayas. Travels in Sikkim.
Book includes the exploration of the south of Kangchenjunga.
Aleister Crowley 1905. The Confessions of Aleister Crowley,
Chapters 51, 52, & 53, tells of the Kangchenjunga Expedition by him
and Dr. Jacot-Guillarmod.
Douglas Freshfield 1903. Round Kangchenjunga – A Narrative of
Mountain Travel and Exploration. Edward Arnold, London
Paul Bauer 1937. Himalayan Campaign. Blackwell is the story of
Bauer's two attempts in 1929 and 1931, republished as View of Kangchenjunga as seen from
Kangchenjunga Challenge (William Kimber, 1955). Darjeeling
Paul Bauer The German Attack on Kangchenjunga, The Himalayan
Journal, 1930 Vol. II.
Lieut. Col. H.W. Tobin Exploration and Climbing in The Sikkim Himalaya The Himalayan Journal, April 1930 Vol.
II. Provides the early exploration and climbing attempts on Kangchenjunga.
Prof. G. O. Dyhrenfurth The International Himalayan Expedition, 1930, The Himalayan Journal, April 1931, Vol.
III. Details their attempt on Kangchenjunga.
 H.W. Tilman The ascent of Nanda Devi, 7 June 1937, Cambridge University Press. Relates the story of their
intention to climb Kangchenjunga.
Irving, R. L. G. 1940. Ten Great Mountains. London, J. M. Dent & Sons
John Angelo Jackson 1955. More than Mountains Book containing data on the 1954 Kangchenjunga
reconnaissance. Jackson was also a team member of the first ascent of Kangchenjunga in 1955, also relates the
Daily Mail "Abominable Snowman" or Yeti Expedition, when the first trek from Everest to Kangchenjunga was
accomplished * [1] (https://web.archive.org/web/20070921031150/http://www.cabernet.demon.co.uk/JAJ/).
Relevant pages 97 onwards with two detailed maps.
Charles Evans Kangchenjunga The Untrodden Peak, Hodder & Stoughton, Leader of the 1955 expedition.
Principal of the University College of North Wales, Bangor. Foreword by His Royal Highness the Duke of
Edinburgh, K.G.
Joe Brown, The Hard Years, tells his version of the first ascent of Kangchenjunga in 1955.
Colonel Narinder Kumar 1978. Kangchenjunga: First ascent from the north-east spur. Vision books. Includes the
second ever ascent of Kangchenjunga and the first from the northeast spur on the Indian side of the mountain.
See also Himalayan Journal Vol. 36 and 50th Anniversary Edition
Peter Boardman 1982. Sacred Summits: A Climber's Year. Includes the 1979 ascent of Kangchenjunga with Joe
Tasker and Doug Scott. Also in The Himalayan Journal Vol 36.
John Angelo Jackson 2005. Adventure Travels in the Himalaya. Indus Publishing. Recounts in more detail the
first ascent of Kangchenjunga.
Simon Pierse 2005. Kangchenjunga: Imaging a Himalayan Mountain. University of Wales, School of Art Press,
ISBN 978-1-899095-22-3. An anthology of word and image published to coincide with the 50th anniversary of the
first ascents of Kangchenjunga. Well illustrated with reproductions of paintings, prints, and photographs
describing the climbing history and cultural significance of the mountain. Preface by George Band.
The above Himalayan Journal References were all also reproduced in the "50th Anniversary of the First Ascent of
Kangchenjunga" The Himalayan Club, Kolkata Section 2005.

Pema Wangchuk and Mita Zulca Khangchendzonga: Sacred Summit. The book details the stories and legends
celebrated by the communities living in the Kangchenjunga's shadow, goes over the exploits of the early
explorers and mountaineers. Chapters cover what Khangchendzonga means to Buddhism, mapping, early
explorers, Alexander Kellas, early expeditions, the first ascent in 1955, the Indian Army ascent (1977), the
second British ascent (1979), women climbers, the Tiger climbers, the yeti, and more. Profusely illustrated with
many period photos.
The Geographer at High Altitudes, "Climbing on the Himalaya and other Mountain Ranges", By J. Norman Collie,
F.R.S. Edinburgh: David Douglas. 1902.
The Glaciers of Kangchenjunga Douglas Freshfield The Geographical Journal, Vol. 19, No. 4 Apr., 1902,
pp. 453–472
Round Kangchenjunga. A Narrative of Mountain Travel and Exploration, Douglas W. Freshfield Bulletin of the
American Geographical Society, Vol. 36, No. 2 1904
C. K. Howard-Bury. 1922. The Mount Everest Expedition. The Geographical Journal 59 (2): 81–99.
"General Bruce's Illness a Serious handicap" "The Times", (British) World Copyright, Lt. R.F.Norton, 19 April
1924. Expedition in the Kangchenjunga area.
Account of a Photographic Expedition to the Southern Glaciers of Kangchenjunga in the Sikkim Himalaya, N. A.
Tombazi, The Geographical Journal, Vol. 67, No. 1 Jan., 1926, pp. 74–76
An Adventure to Kangchenjunga, Hugh Boustead, The Geographical Journal, Vol. 69, No. 4 (Apr., 1927),
pp. 344–350
The Times Literary Supplement, Thursday, 11 December 1930. "The Kangchenjunga Adventure", F.S. Smythe.
Im Kampf um den Himalaja, Paul Bauer. The Kangchenjunga Adventure, F. S. Smythe, Himalaya: Unsere
Expedition, G. O. Dyhrenfurth. 1930
The Times Literary Supplement, Thursday, 9 April 1931. "Kangchenjunga", Paul Bauer.
The Imperial Gazetteer of India. Vol. XXVI, The Geographical Journal, Vol. 79, No. 1 Jan., 1932, pp. 53–56
Recent Heroes of Modern Adventure, T. C. Bridges; H. Hessell Tiltman, The Geographical Journal, Vol. 81, No. 6
Jun., 1933, p. 568
Paul Bauer 1931. Um Den Kantsch: der zweite deutsche Angriff auf den Kangchendzönga, The Geographical
Journal, Vol. 81, No. 4 Apr., 1933, pp. 362–363
Paul Bauer; Sumner Austin 1938. Himalayan Campaign: The German Attack on Kangchenjunga, The
Geographical Journal, Vol. 91, No. 5: 478
Charles Evans; George Band 1956. Kangchenjunga Climbed. The Geographical Journal 122 (1): 1–12.
Charles Evans 1956. "Kangchenjunga: The Untrodden Peak". The Times Literary Supplement.
 Lou Whittaker, Memoirs of a Mountain guide, 1994

See also
List of elevation extremes by country

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External links
 Kangchenjunga page on Himalaya-Info.org (German) (http://www.himalaya-info.org/Map%20kangchenjunga.htm)
Kangchenjunga page on Summitpost.org (http://www.summitpost.org/kangchenjunga/150283)
Aleister Crowley's detailed account of the 1905 attempt on Kangchenjunga (http://hermetic.com/crowley/confessi
ons/chapter51.html)
Kangchenjunga History (http://www.k2news.com/kanghistory.htm) for a more detailed up to date account of the
mountain's history and ascents.
"Kāngchenjunga, India/Nepal" on Peakbagger (http://www.peakbagger.com/peak.aspx?pid=10653)
Kangchenjunga on Peakware (http://www.peakware.com/peaks.html?pk=132) – photos
Glacier Research Image Project (http://www.asiasociety.org/onthinnerice) presents photos tracking 24 years of
changes in glaciers at Kangchenjunga.
Mtxplore Mountain Statistics (http://mtxplore.com/8000-meters) Statistics of Kangchenjunga.

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