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Abstract: Barcelona’s fifth district was first named el Barrio Chino in 1925 by Francisco Madrid,
the co-founder and regular contributor of the weekly publication El Escándalo in an article titled
“Los bajos fondos de Barcelona.” Unlike the establishment of other well-known Chinatowns in
major metropolises such as New York and San Francisco, Barcelona’s Barrio Chino did not host a
significant Chinese migrant population during the early twentieth century. Instead, the reinvention
of Barcelona’s fifth district as el Barrio Chino was the product of the transnational circulation of the
“Chinatown myth.” This article explores the deployment of the Chinatown myth in the Spanish
imaginary, its role in establishing the neighborhood as a marker of the city’s modernity and cosmo-
politanism, and its use as a frame for staging the performance of marginal identities in 1920s and
1930s Barcelona.
Resumen: El quinto distrito de Barcelona se nombró el Barrio Chino por primera vez en 1925 en
un artículo titulado “Los bajos fondos de Barcelona,” escrito por Francisco Madrid, el co-fundador
y periodista de la revista semanal El Escándalo. A diferencia de los barrios chinos de otras grandes
ciudades como Nueva York y San Francisco, el Barrio Chino de Barcelona no tuvo una población
importante de migrantes chinos durante las primeras décadas del siglo XX. En su lugar, la con-
cepción del quinto distrito de Barcelona como el Barrio Chino fue el resultado de la circulación
internacional del “Chinatown myth.” Este artículo explora el despliegue del mito en el imaginario
español, su papel en establecer el barrio como signo de la modernidad y el cosmopolitismo de Bar-
celona, y su uso como un marco dentro del cual se puso en escena el performance de identidades
marginales de las décadas 20 y 30 en Barcelona.
B
Mary Kate Donovan is a arcelona’s Barrio Chino, a historically working-class
doctoral candidate in the neighborhood, has witnessed the many transformations
Department of Hispanic of Barcelona’s urban space and political and social life. El
Languages and Literature Barrio Chino is a socially marginal, yet geographically central dis-
at Stony Brook Univer-
trict that represents a space of ethnic, cultural and demographic
sity. Her research focuses
on representations of the
diversity that, over the course of many decades, has supported
Chinese in twentieth-and Barcelona’s self-proclamation as Spain’s most “cosmopolitan” city.
twenty-first-century Span- El Raval was first referred to as el Barrio Chino in the inaugural
ish literature, film and edition of the sensationalist weekly periodical El Escándalo in
popular media. She has 1925. The magazine’s co-founder and regular contributor Fran-
taught courses on modern cisco Madrid repurposed the term as a way of characterizing
Spanish literature, film the exotic allure of Barcelona’s “barrios bajos.” However, unlike
and culture at Stony Brook the Chinatowns of New York, San Francisco and La Habana,
University and for the Uni- Barcelona’s Barrio Chino did not boast a large Chinese immi-
versity of California’s Edu-
grant population during the 1920s and 1930s. Instead, when
cation Abroad Program in
Madrid.
Madrid writes that Barcelona has its own “barrio chino,” he is not
referring to a specific Chinese enclave, but rather to a mythical
notion of the Chinatown that had been circulating throughout
the West, including Spain, since the mid-nineteenth century. The
“Chinatown myth” frames the Chinatown as a space of exotic
otherness that exists within the domestic frontiers of the city.
This article explores the deployment of the Chinatown myth
in Barcelona and the neighborhood’s role in establishing the
city as part of an international circuit of cosmopolitan, modern
metropolises while also serving as a frame for exploring marginal
identities in 1920s and 1930s Barcelona.
The Chinatown myth is rooted historically in rep-
resentations of Chinese migration to the West. Driven by
socio-economic and political changes taking place across
the globe, Chinese emigration—voluntary migration and
the coolie slave trade—began during the nineteenth cen-
tury, spurring a large-scale Chinese diaspora that in turn
provoked social and political anxieties in the West. Chinese
indentured servants were brought in slave-like conditions
to places in Latin America and the Caribbean, particularly
Cuba and Peru, during the nineteenth and twentieth cen-
turies to satisfy the need for inexpensive labor following the
abolition of the African slave trade. The Chinese arriving in
the United States, on the other hand, were largely voluntary
migrants enticed by the possibility of striking it rich in
California’s gold mines and who later worked on the con-
struction of the Transcontinental Railroad. In each of these
distinct but overlapping contexts the image of the Chinese
laborer became codified in the collective imagination of the
Mary Kate Donovan 11
(North and South) American public. The The perception of the widespread
caricature of the Chinaman with small availability of inexpensive Chinese labor as
eyes, a long braid and a triangular straw a threat to white workers was compounded
hat began to appear in political cartoons by the persistent, forced isolation of the
that commented, often critically, on the Chinese immigrant population from main-
growing Chinese immigrant population. stream American society. While Chinatowns
This unprecedented migration from China provided a social and economic safe haven,
to the Americas eventually resulted in the they also encouraged a lack of assimilation
creation of Chinese ethnic enclaves in ma- among Chinese immigrants. The Chinese
jor urban centers, or Chinatowns. Exclusion Act remains one of the most
In the United States, as large num- restrictive immigration laws in the history
bers of Chinese migrants arrived in major of the United States, and stands to illustrate
metropolitan areas such as New York, Los the socio-political anxieties associated with
Angeles and San Francisco, Chinatowns the Chinese in the United States, and the
became an established facet of the urban West more generally during this period.1
landscape. The earliest Chinese immigrants In Latin America, Chinese migrants and
were almost exclusively male, many of whom their descendants incited fears similar to
had the intention of establishing a degree of those that produced the Chinese Exclusion
financial stability before sending for their Act in the United States. Francisco Morán
families later on. However, the Chinese Ex- reminds us that
clusion Act, signed into law in 1882, banned
Chinese immigration to the United States a través de todo el siglo XIX el
and prevented immigrants’ families from asiático es objeto de una creciente
joining them. As a consequence, the ratio discriminación que lo marca, en
of men to women in the American Chinese algunas regiones del continente [la-
diaspora remained extremely unequal even tinoamericano], como una otredad
after decades of steady immigration (Wu radical más allá de la cual el sujeto
72). This unfavorable ratio was aggravated nacional y el latinoamericano no
by anti-miscegenation laws, which prevented pueden ser imaginados. (387)
Chinese immigrants from marrying women
of other races, and left the majority of Chi- Morán goes on to cite an article by the
nese males in the United States without Cuban intellectual José Antonio Saco, “Los
familial ties. As such, American Chinatowns chinos en Cuba,” written and published
were populated primarily by single adult in Madrid in 1864, in which Saco warns
males with limited personal and profes- that the moral and political dangers of
sional opportunities, their social exclusion large numbers of Chinese migrants on the
further reinforced by legal policies barring island likely outweigh the benefits of their
the Chinese from most aspects of public inexpensive labor (387).
life. The establishment of bars, brothels and The social anxiety associated with the
opium dens that catered to these marginal Chinese in Cuba is echoed more than half
“bachelor societies” in conjunction with the a century later in the short story “Los chi-
racial prejudice of the period contributed to nos” (1927) by the Spanish-Cuban writer
the image of the Chinatown as a bastion of and diplomat Alfonso Hernández Catá.
lawlessness and low morals. “Los chinos” relates the tragic demise of a
12 Arizona Journal of Hispanic Cultural Studies
crime syndicates that would continue to chino” and “Chinatown” appeared frequently
appear in Chinatown films throughout the in Spanish newspapers and periodicals, most
twentieth century. Interestingly, both films commonly in reference to the internationally
were among the dual language productions infamous Chinatowns in New York and San
made by studios like Universal and Fox to Francisco. The earliest references in Spain
cope with the language problem posed by come from nineteenth-century periodicals
the introduction of synchronized sound. and coincide in their negative depictions of
The Spanish-language versions of these Chinatowns and their inhabitants. In 1886,
Chinatowns films—Oriente y occidente and La ilustración, published in Barcelona and
Eran trece—were distributed throughout the distributed throughout Spain’s remaining
Spanish-speaking world and highlight the colonies in the Americas and the Philip-
degree to which the fictionalized image of pines, included a story entitled “La cruzada
the North American Chinatown proliferat- anti-china en los Estados Unidos y Australia”
ed and took hold beyond the United States. on its front page. In the article, the author
Thanks in large part to the effectiveness of Federico Rahola comments on the rise of
visual media circulating throughout the anti-Chinese sentiment in the United States:
West, the construction of the Chinatown
and the notion of Yellow Peril in the West [Una] razón en que apoyan su cruza-
are overlapping and interdependent. da anti-china es la inmoralidad que
Established in reaction to anti-Chi- consigo han traído los chinos a los
nese sentiment and policies, Chinatowns, Estados Unidos…. Según afirman,
while providing a haven for immigrants en Chinatown, barrio de los chinos
excluded from the national body politic, en San Francisco de California, la
also offered fodder for the development of inmoralidad llega a su colmo, y la
suciedad de las viviendas y la falta
the Chinatown myth. Originating in the
de higiene constituyen peligro cons-
wake of Chinese migration and the anxieties tante de infección para la población
it provoked, the Yellow Peril and Chinatown blanca. (Rahola 211)
rhetoric soon spread beyond those initial
paths, propagated through what Ruth The article identifies the Chinese popula-
Mayer terms “shared political and cultural tion of San Francisco as a physical threat
frameworks of segregation, marginaliza- to the health and well-being of the city’s
tion, and exoticization” in the form of a Anglo-American residents. What is more, it
“transnational fantasy, based on invented frames Chinese immigration as the spread
traditions” (“Introduction” 1). Theorizing
of a contagion that places the white popula-
the Chinatown myth as a transnational
tion in danger of infection. Rahola goes on
fantasy is essential to understanding the ori-
to remind his Spanish readership that they,
gins of Barcelona’s Barrio Chino. Although
too, are at possible risk:
Spain did not host a significant Chinese
diaspora during the early twentieth century, Hasta ahora Europa no ha sufrido
the channels of dissemination that Mayer las consecuencias del desparrame de
refers to circulated through Spain as these la fabulosa población de la China,
transnational fantasies crossed the Atlantic. evaluada en más de cuatrocientos mi-
At the turn of the nineteenth and llones de habitantes, pero el día que
early twentieth centuries the terms “El barrio ese colosal imperio se vea organizado
14 Arizona Journal of Hispanic Cultural Studies
in the context; the 1940s series The Drums pintoresca y no siempre alegre de los chinos
of Fu Manchu, which was subsequently del Barrio Chino barcelonés, que han sido
reimagined by José Grua Hernández as a chinos de todos los barrios del mundo.”
comic in 1943, appears in a number of Like many of the newspaper and magazine
his novels.4 Indeed, Fu Manchu has been articles that explore Barcelona’s Barrio
played by numerous actors and reimag- Chino, the author, Trillas Blázquez, begins
ined in countless forms in what Mayer has by outlining the geographic limits of the
called “the transnational serial unfolding of neighborhood:
Fu Manchu” (Serial Fu Manchu 6). These
multiple manifestations of the Fu Manchu De las Ramblas para acá, es Barce-
character became integrated into the fabric lona; de las Ramblas para allá, son
of Spanish popular culture during the first los países distantes. Entrando por la
half of the twentieth century. Rambla en la calle Nueva, rumbo al
Paralelo, la segunda travesía que baja
While the circulation of the Yellow
hacia el mar es la calle Guardia. Una
Peril discourse and the Chinatown myth
calle típica del Barrio Chino, con
precedes a substantial Chinese diaspora in tascas, traperos, peinadores, casas
Spain, this is not to say that there was a de dormir y navajazos de tanto en
complete absence of Chinese residents in tanto. (19)
Spain during the early twentieth century.
To the contrary, Spain’s first wave of im- He positions himself on “this side” of the
migration from China began during the Ramblas, distinguishing his position from
1920s and 1930s and there is evidence that “that side,” or “los países distantes.” In this
a few Chinese residents in Spain joined the way el Barrio Chino effectively expands the
Republican ranks during the Spanish Civil city space for the flâneur who fancies a stroll
War.5 Of course, those numbers pale in across las Ramblas, thereby crossing from
comparison with Spain’s contemporary Chi- Barcelona, Cataluña, Spain to the mysteri-
nese population, which has grown nearly ously generic “países distantes.”
450% since the 1990s and as of 2014 is the The author goes on to describe a street
second largest non-EU immigrant group scene typical of el Barrio Chino: thieves,
in Spain (Latham and Wu). Spain’s earliest heavy-set and bearded prostitutes, a tavern
Chinese immigrant population during the “que hiede a vino y a sudor,” and a general
1920s and 1930s were primarily travelling store where customers come to purchase
merchants, many of whom would likely goods through a gate guarding the establish-
have spent time in other European countries ment’s entrance. The shopkeeper recognizes
as well. While a relatively small population, the Chinese customers who frequent his
the presence of this small number of Chi- shop and the author confirms that they live
nese migrants in Spain during this period is nearby on the calle Guardia. Yet, despite their
significant because it represents one of the evident familiarity as neighborhood regulars,
earliest encounters between the Chinese and the otherness of el Barrio Chino’s Chinese
their fictional representation in the Spanish residents remains remarkable to the author:
imaginary.
Evidence of Spain’s early Chinese Gente curiosa ésta, sin la cual Edgar
immigrant population appears in a 1935 Wallace no hubiera podido dibujar
article published in Crónica titled “La vida sus más crueles tipos, y los magos de
16 Arizona Journal of Hispanic Cultural Studies
district an obvious choice for journalists hasta bien entrada la mañana, es una
looking for sensationalist stories with shock continua excitación de la juerga....
appeal. With the exception of Robert A. Añadan ustedes que hay en Barcelo-
Davidson’s reading of the magazine in his na un millón de habitantes, de todos
los países y pudiéramos decir que
study on Jazz Age Barcelona, however, El
todas las razas, y como se sabe que
Escándalo has been largely overlooked by
la moral cambia según las latitudes,
studies on serial publications during the convengamos en que, en general, ello
1920s and 1930s in Spain. Davidson notes ha de crear un ambiente de tolerancia
the modernity of the magazine’s format and y de comprensión. (1)
content, arguing that,
Hurtado juxtaposes the city’s vibrant night-
even if it partook of hyperbole on life with its growing immigrant population
many occasions, motives aside, when as evidence of Barcelona’s cosmopolitanism.
it came to the job of reporting, El Although Hurtado’s claim that Barcelona
Escándalo documented accurately
hosts “todas las razas” might be a generous
Barcelona’s particular zeitgeist. The
aspiring modern metropolis, warts description of the city’s ethnic and racial di-
and all, was the paper’s general versity in 1926, it reveals a desire to conceive
focus. (17) of the city as accommodating a wide range
of people and lifestyles. As Davidson notes,
On the whole, El Escándalo consistently
emphasizes el Barrio Chino as a marker of the Jazz Age spirit manifested in Bar-
Barcelona’s growing cosmopolitanism. A celona during the Age’s gentrification
period was fuelled in part by the hab-
1926 article on the front page of El Escándalo
its of upper classes that emulated the
recognizes that “Barcelona goza de una fama social codes of Parisians, Londoners
que deja bastante que desear en cuanto a and New Yorkers. (35)
moralidad” (1). The author, Andrés Hurtado,
contests this notion, however, suggesting that In other words, Barcelona’s fifth district was
despite the city’s reputation the number of reinvented as el Barrio Chino with its gaze
couples who have “atentado contra la moral” fixed on cultural capitals in the United States
in the month of May (known for its aphro- and Northern Europe. Published during the
disiac effect, he adds) is relatively low; hence period between Barcelona’s two World Fairs
the article’s tongue-in-cheek title, “Que nos (1888 and 1929), the magazine was able to
canonicen.” To contextualize his staunch de- tap into the rhythm of the city’s urban life
fense of Barcelona’s morality, the author takes at a moment when Barcelona’s was stepping
the opportunity to elaborate on the changing onto the world stage as a center for the arts
social landscape of modern Barcelona: and culture. Davidson mentions the way in
which the emerging gentrification of the city
Ciudad cosmopolita, se la considera
during these decades transformed the Barrio
con una despreocupación en las
costumbres rayana libertinaje. La Chino into a nightlife hub during the 1920s
vida nocturna de Barcelona, con and 1930s, drawing middle and upper class
sus centenares de cafés conciertos y revelers attracted by the neighborhood’s
cabarets, con su censo nutridísimo grittiness. El Escándalo itself is a product
de mujeres galantes, que se prolonga of this gentrifying force in Barcelona’s fifth
18 Arizona Journal of Hispanic Cultural Studies
district. The weekly publication presents tours carried droves of curious tourists
itself as going “where others fear to tread,” to scrutinize the neighborhood’s residents
enthralling readers with salacious details and businesses from the safety of the
about the city’s seediest corners (Davidson bus’s interior. Barcelona’s fifth district
27).The outward gaze Davidson describes is experienced a curious inversion of the
met by the equally penetrating gaze of foreign same process; while growing Chinatowns
tourists for whom Barcelona’s fifth district in North American attracted tourists
represents an opportunity to experience a interested in experiencing the exotic at
more “primitive” culture. Joan Ramon Re- home, it was the very arrival of foreign
sina, who has written about the evolution of tourists to Barcelona’s fifth district that
Barcelona’s Barrio Chino through European transformed the neighborhood from a
travel writing, describes el Barrio Chino as a common working class neighborhood
“peephole” through which foreign travelers into the city’s “Chinatown.” The inven-
peer at Barcelona, suggesting that the image tion of the fifth district as el Barrio Chino
of the larger city—and its modernity—is creates a logic within which the urban
formed through the tourist’s perception of thrill seeker can experience the exotic and
the fifth district (103). Resina argues that dangerous side of the modern metropolis
with relative safety and ease.
exposure to life’s hard edges in In his analysis of the fifth district’s
Barcelona’s fifth district was eagerly transformation, Resina suggests that el Bar-
consumed by interlopers who were, rio Chino might have been a term adopted
before anything else, voyeurs of precisely to evade the period’s stringent
abjection … they scented an at-
censorship policy rather than an attempt to
mosphere in which Western taboos
ceased to operate. Under their an- evoke a particular sense of place that linked
thropological gaze, those grim and the district to the Chinatowns of New York
dour streets placed Western morality and San Francisco (104). Chris Ealham, on
under erasure. (99) the other hand, reads the adoption of the
Chinatown myth in Barcelona as politi-
In this way Barcelona’s fifth district becomes cally motivated in that it offered reformers
the site of the same kind of tourism that from both sides of the fractionalized elite a
had been occurring for decades in American framework through which they could advo-
Chinatowns. In his study of New York’s Chi- cate for social control and hygiene by bor-
natown, Jan Lin describes how during the rowing from the hysteria produced by the
late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries Yellow Peril and Chinatown discourses in
the United States. For Ealham, El Escándalo
it became fashionable for middle- exhibited a trend within Spanish liberalism
class New Yorkers to go slumming in that, while self-identifying as politically
Chinatown … and other less respect- liberal and modern,
able parts of town to ‘rub shoulders
with sinners’ and see ‘how the other was heavily inflected by the discourse
half lives.’ (174) of nineteenth-century reformers and
moralists and revealed an unwaver-
A similar phenomenon took place in ing fixation with the preservation of
San Francisco’s Chinatown, where bus order. (392)
Mary Kate Donovan 19
While the exact details of its origin may be where diverse identities may be performed,
difficult to determine, the name has nev- thus creating a link between Barcelona’s
ertheless incorporated the neighborhood Barrio Chino and other edgy, progressive
into an international circuit of Chinatowns, spaces of cultural production in Europe and
despite the curious absence of Chinese the Americas.
inhabitants. Indeed, in a section of Sangre en
Francisco Madrid’s fascination with el atarazanas titled “Las tres etapas de la mala
Barrio Chino as a site for bourgeois tourism vida moderna de Barcelona” Madrid deploys
and burgeoning Catalan cosmopolitanism the metaphor of the cabaret in proposing a
extended beyond the pages of El Escándalo history of modern Barcelona as divided into
to his similarly themed novel Sangre en three epochs, emblemized respectively by
atarazanas (1926), in which Barcelona’s the café de camareras, el cabaret and el danc-
fifth district features as a central protago- ing. Madrid writes from the third period—el
nist. The text is constructed as a mosaic of dancing—which, he claims, is representative
vignettes that explore the neighborhood’s of a new era in Barcelonan public life:
darkest crevices. A blend of melodramatic
prose and investigative journalism, Madrid’s Dancing. Esta palabra lo encierra
first-person narrative adopts his habitual todo. Es la piedra de toque de nues-
costumbrista style, highlighting the dangers tra civilización; la argolla y el libro
de nuestra actualidad. El negro que
and vices of everyday life in el Barrio Chino.
brinca arrancando del saxofón las
Throughout the novel Madrid continues to
notas últimas del Charleston recién
draw cultural links between el Barrio Chino llegado; el bajo que ayuda a trasla-
and a post-national and multicultural cos- darnos a la selva virgen a través de
mopolitan ideal: un cocktail de veinte licores y de un
solo color. (173)
A mí el barrio bajo, el bajo fondo
me inspira una gran curiosidad. Está Madrid holds the dancing up as a symbol
allí el verdadero sentido primitivo de of modernity that, in turn, links el Barrio
todas las ciudades. No hay naciona- Chino to other emblems of Jazz Age cos-
lismo profundo. Un barrio bajo es el
mopolitanism: African-American jazz, the
principio de la idea internacionalista.
Charleston and prohibition-era cocktails.
Nadie es del país y todos lo son:
rusos, montenegrinos, chinos, fran- The dancing is a space defined by music,
ceses, ingleses pueblan un barrio bajo motion and the modernity of urban life
y forman una república.... El distrito in the early twentieth century; it is the
V es toda Europa. (77-78) physical manifestation of a link that Madrid
makes throughout Sangre en atarazanas
This passage exemplifies Madrid’s invention and El Escándalo between el Barrio Chino
of the Barrio Chino as a space of tolerance and the emerging modernity of cultural
that inscribes Barcelona—and perhaps capitals like New York and London. It is
Cataluña and Spain more broadly—into a important to note that the exotic appeal
network of European cosmopolitanism. De- of this emerging modernity in the 1920s
spite his characterization of el Barrio Chino is marked by racial difference. Like racially
as a den of vices Madrid also celebrates el marked American jazz music and celebrities
Barrio Chino as a kind of multiethnic cabaret like Josephine Baker, the Chinatown of the
20 Arizona Journal of Hispanic Cultural Studies
ni en Marsellas, ni Singapoore,
For an emerging cultural capital like Bar-
ni en Hong-Kong, ni en el viejo
celona, el Barrio Chino marked the city as Hamburgo, ni en la costa pacífica
definitively modern, while, as we have seen, es posible encontrar cabarets tan
also representing a problem for social reform- limpios y tan económicos como los
ers of the period. de Barcelona. (6)
Mary Kate Donovan 21
had played Wu-Li-Chang in the stage play as of attraction and repulsion that mirrors in
well. The film received significant coverage some ways the appeal of the transformista
in Spanish newspapers and magazines and performance. Mayer theorizes the cinematic
was screened in cities across Spain.7 Thus the representation of the Chinatown, a popular
Wu-Li-Chang character and narrative would trope during the silent film and early sound
have been widely known and recognizable in era, as a tool for negotiating modernity and
1934 when Casa Sacristán was remodeled urban space. It is precisely the overwhelm-
and renamed. As Trillas Blázquez exclaims ing abundance of the Chinatown, largely
in his article on el Barrio Chino’s cabarets available for consumption, which points
“¡cómo había de faltar un Wu-Li-Chang en to the unique experience of the modern
el Barrio Chino!” (8). metropolis:
In this way the cabaret Wu-Li-Chang
becomes a space in which the racialized The Chinatown presents a par-
exoticness of the Chinatown and the perfor- ticularly fraught version of modern
mance of marginalized identities in Barcelo- urbanity in its configuration of
na coalesce. In the renovated Wu-Li-Chang periphery and center, inclusion and
exclusion, West and East. Seen in
Oriental-inspired performances lived up to
this way, filmic Chinatowns con-
the cabaret’s new name, including the per- stitute an exemplary instance of the
formance by the well-known transformista negotiations of modernity, figuring a
Mirko (Figure 2). Mirko’s Chinese costume paradigmatically modern space that
complements the chinoiserie-style lettering corresponds with the “hyperstimulus
that adorns the ornamental pillars inside the of the modern metropolis. (Mayer,
cabaret, and a few of the audience members “Glittering Machine” 664)
even appear to be wearing coolie-style straw
hats in keeping with the Chinese-themed Barcelona’s Barrio Chino is emblematic of
performance. The transformation of Casa this “hyperstimulus of the modern metropo-
Sacristán into the Wu-Li-Chang cabaret lis.” Like the cinematic Chinatowns of the
makes evident the powerful influence of early twentieth century, el Barrio Chino is
the Chinatown myth in establishing the a space—or a series of spaces, performances
Chinatown—imagined or real—as a place and identities—available for consumption.
for staging otherness. The transformista More specifically, el Barrio Chino’s lack of
performances that took place in el Barrio actual Chinese demands the exaggerated
Chino, and at Wu-Li-Chang especially, overfilling of this emptiness with a fetishized
speak to the way in which the exoticness representation of Chineseness, which makes
of the Chinatown serves as a frame within the myth more easily consumed. A fictional
which otherness can be explored, performed notion of the Chinatown and the orientalist
and even celebrated. décor borrowed from the mise-en-scène of
Of particular interest here is the way Hollywood’s Chinatown films becomes the
in which the “Chineseness” of el Barrio backdrop against which a particular series of
Chino is oversimplified and appropriated urban spaces and identities can be performed
as a tool for expressing other kinds of and consumed in Barcelona. By borrowing
marginal identities, such as homosexual- this “oriental mystique,” so to speak, el
ity. Like other forms of Orientalism, the Barrio Chino is able to slip in and out of
Chinatown myth produces a curious blend various categories: at once cosmopolitan and
24 Arizona Journal of Hispanic Cultural Studies
European; primitive and non-Western. The of el Barrio Chino is ingrained a certain kind
Chinatown myth provides an internationally of orientalism that, I argue, becomes firmly
understood framework within which alterity embedded in the Spanish imaginary.
can be absorbed into the fabric of the city, Unlike el Barrio Chino of the 1920s
the region, and the nation at large. Mayer and 1930s, twenty-first-century Barcelona
has described the Chinatown as: hosts a thriving Chinese community. In re-
cent decades the Chinese diaspora in Spain
part of a disjointed and disparate new has continued to grow and currently consti-
urban geography which is no longer tutes one of the largest and fastest growing
to be charted on the grounds of the
immigrant communities in Spain. As el Barrio
old maps. Chinatowns are spaces
Chino has continued to gentrify, continuing
with their own rules, but they are by
no means Chinese-only territory—to its century-long transformation from Barce-
the contrary, their very immersion in lona’s dangerous underbelly to an epicenter
the traffickings of the tourist industry for the consumption of nightlife and enter-
and in transnational trade relations tainment, the Chinatown myth has been suc-
turn them into sites of contact and ex- cessfully commodified in el Barrio Chino in a
change. (“The Greatest Novelty” 120) way that makes the fifth’s district’s allure more
palatable to tourists. Meanwhile, Barcelona’s
In the case of el Barrio Chino the orientalist growing Chinese community remains largely
name and décor set the stage for the perfor- absent from the city’s original “Chinatown,”
mance of otherness in various forms; the instead establishing other Chinatowns—in
neighborhood’s prostitutes, drug users and the original sense of term—not in the center
drag performers represent sectors of society of the city, but in its outskirts, particularly the
that were limited to the geographic space Fondo neighborhood in the northeast suburb
of el Barrio Chino. By demarcating its own of Santa Coloma de Gramanet. As Chinese-
Chinatown, Barcelona positions itself within owned businesses began to pop up in major
a network of cosmopolitan, Western me- Spanish cities, a 2008 article in El Mundo
tropolises and, as such, affirms its modernity titled “Fondo, un nuevo ‘China Town’ que
and its European identity at a moment when crece en el extrarradio barcelonés” asked the
Spain was perceived by many as peripheral to question, “pero ¿dónde viven las familias chi-
European modernity. If the Chinatown is a nas que se establecen en la capital catalana?”
marker of modernity and cosmopolitanism, The answer was not el Barrio Chino:
then by establishing one of its own Barcelona
also adopts the orientalist gaze implicit in the hace años que El Raval dejó de ser,
historic representation of Chinatowns and the de facto, el barrio chino barcelonés
Chinese in the West. For a country plagued … es el barrio de Fondo, en Santa
by a sense of marginality and inferiority in Coloma de Gramanet, en el que
relation to Europe’s political and cultural numerosas familias de origen oriental
capitals—an anxiety embodied in the well han encontrado acomodo. (Garrido)
known and often cited phrase “África em-
pieza en los pirineos”—the exotic otherness Spain’s growing Chinese population is mak-
of the Chinatown is conveniently more other ing a significant contribution to the country’s
than Spain’s own position on the European increasing ethnic and cultural diversity. Un-
periphery. However, within the modernity like Chinatowns in other major American
Mary Kate Donovan 25
6
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7
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Creation of Barcelona’s ‘Chinatown’ c. The Chinatown in American Silent Film.”
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