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A

toolbox reference
for basic scope tests
you can use every
day!
Peter F. Meier (Motor Age)
G. Jerry Truglia (TST/ATTS)

MAKING MONEY WITH


YOUR SCOPE


A Digital Storage Oscilloscope (DSO) can be a useful diagnostic tool, and
when coupled with specialized testing accessories it can be used to
measure just about any parameter you would care to measure!

But before you invest in an arsenal of sensors, transducers and other
tooling, take the time to first become comfortable with the basic tool
itself.

Included in this tool box reference are several tests you can perform
with the DSO every day, allowing you ample opportunity to get to know
the scope. Included in this reference:

1. Testing the battery and charging system
2. Testing the alternator diode pack using AC Coupling
3. Testing relative compression with and without an amp clamp
4. Testing base ignition timing
5. Testing cam/crank synchronization
6. Testing ignition systems
7. Testing fuel injectors and solenoids
8. Testing fuel pumps and electric motors

Only the essential elements of these tests are shown. For greater depth
of information, we invite you to visit the YouTube channels for both
Motor Age Magazine and TST. (Some links are provided in this
reference for your convenience.)





(Illustrations courtesy of Pico Technology and Motor Age magazine)
BATTERY/CHARGING SYSTEM TESTING

Connections:



1. Connect channel A to battery positive and negative terminals
2. Connect channel B to the high amp current clamp. Set the clamp to
its highest scale, zero the tool and then connect to either battery
positive cable or battery negative cable.
3. Scope settings:
VOLTAGE
Channel A - 20v total range minimum
Channel B - Highest range of high clamp used

TIME - 500 ms per division
TRIGGER - user preference, Single capture mode recommended

To perform this test, connect your scope as directed and start the
engine. Allow it to run for 2-3 minutes or until the screen is filled.



KNOWN GOOD



KNOWN BAD




ANALYSIS - VOLTAGE



A - The first half is the measurement of the battery's State of Charge, or
SOC. This is "Key Off, Engine Off". About halfway over you'll notice a
slight drop as the ignition is turned to the "on" position. Look very
closely and you'll see one more drop as the key is turned to the "start"
position and the starter solenoid is energized.

B - This drop in voltage is often referred to as "in rush" voltage. Since
the scope is capable of reading the voltage input at very high sample
rates, what you're seeing here is the microsecond moment that the
starter is just beginning to move. It takes a lot to get the motor moving,
especially against the resistance of the engine.

Similar to a conventional loaded battery voltage test, this is an
indication of the battery's overall health and ability to deliver voltage
potential to the system. Unlike the normal 9.5 volt threshold we use for
a conventional test, this test is still considered a "pass" if this reading is
over 8.5 volts.

C - This section of the voltage waveform shows the starter motor's
impact on battery voltage as it starts turning the engine over. The first
few humps you see are caused by the added resistance to movement of
the pistons as they head toward the top of their respective
compression strokes. You'll notice that the humps quickly begin to
occur sooner and faster until finally, the engine starts. At that point, the
alternator starts charging, resulting in the sharp upward rise to D.

D - This section of the waveform is the charging system voltage and
should quickly stabilize. Be sure to check the service information of
your choice to see what this voltage level should be. While we were all
taught 13.5 volts to 14.5 volts was a good number, today's computer-
controlled "smart" charging systems may have no added voltage or
initially high voltages up to 17.0 volts.
















ANALYSIS - CURRENT



A - This is the same key position change as you saw in the voltage
pattern, only now we're looking at current. Anything above the "0" line
represents a discharge from the battery while anything below the "0"
line represents a charge.

REMEMBER TO CLAMP AROUND ALL OF THE GROUND CABLES THAT
ARE CONNECTED TO THE BATTERY, OR ALL OF THE POSITIVE CABLES
THAT ARE CONNECTED TO THE BATTERY IN ORDER TO GET A "NET"
CURRENT READING!

B - This highest peak is "in rush" current and can reach over 600 amps
as the starter motor is first engaged, and is considered normal.

C - As was "C" in the voltage pattern, this section of the waveform
represents the starter motor's current draw as it starts to turn and pick
up speed. Note, though, that at the end (as the engine starts and runs),
this current pattern shows when the starter motor disengaged and the
alternator began charging.

If the battery and charging system is in good shape, the alternator
should be able to replenish the battery charge very quickly, then drop
off and stabilize to somewhere around 3 -5 amps net positive charge.

D - Once the alternator's current to the battery has stabilized, note its
net charge. Anything higher than 5 - 10 amps (depending on OEM) can
indicate a sulfated cell in the battery. Maintaining this high a net charge
rate can overheat the alternator and lead to premature failure.






















ANALYSIS - KNOWN BAD



This pattern is obviously different from the "known good", isn't it?

And while the Pico scope used to capture this pattern has a great
"zoom" feature, this is a great place to talk about "AC Coupling".

AC Coupling simply means we are going to remove the DC voltage
component from the signal and leave the AC there for all to see. Using
this method allows us to more closely inspect patterns we otherwise
would not be able to see, and is a feature available on every scope I'm
aware of.

Just remember that we can't use AC Coupling to take specific
measurements, only changes in voltage.

Let's try one out.
First, make these adjustments to channel A:

Following your scope's operating manual, select "AC Coupling".

VOLTAGE - (+/-) 2 volts

(On some scopes, you may have to relocate the "zero" line to
midscreen to allow for negative and positive voltage measurements)

TIME - 10 ms per division
TRIGGER - user preference, REPEAT or NORMAL preferred



We've effectively "zoomed in" on the voltage line we captured in the
previous screenshot. This is called "AC Ripple" and is the effect of a
failed diode in the alternator.

The alternator produces AC voltage that has to be rectified to DC for
the battery to be able to use it. The presence of excessive AC RIpple can
impact the ability of the alternator to keep the battery charged and can
also impact computer processing. Known bad is considered anything
more than 0.50 vAC when measuring from peak to peak. Here's a
normal signal for comparison:














RELATIVE COMPRESSION TESTING



The relative compression test builds on the lesson we learned in the
battery/charging system current pattern. Each cylinder has an impact
on starter motor current draw relative to its compression stroke.
Weaker cylinders will show up as lower current draws and we can use
that to quickly identify potential mechanical issues without going
through the long process of performing a conventional compression
test.

1. Disable the fuel system or operate the engine in "Clear Flood" mode
2. Connect channel A to the high amp current clamp. Set the clamp to
its highest scale, zero the tool and then connect to either battery
positive cable or battery negative cable.
3. Scope settings:
VOLTAGE
Channel A - highest scale available on high amp current clamp
TIME - 500 ms per division
TRIGGER - user preference, Single capture mode recommended

To perform this test, hold the accelerator pedal to Wide Open Throttle.
With the fuel system disabled, crank the engine over for 2 - 3 seconds
or until you've filled the screen.

Be sure to verify that the battery is healthy prior to performing this
test.

KNOWN GOOD




ANALYSIS

Look for the pattern to first reach the same "in rush" peak we saw
when performing the battery/charging system test. Once the cranking
speed stabilizes, look for the peaks to remain even to one another.

Peaks that are lower than the others are suspect and may indicate a
mechanical issue in that cylinder. But keep in mind that this is a
"relative" test, comparing the cylinders to one another. Timing
between the cam(s) and crankshaft can also result in low compression
in all cylinders - and in that case, the pattern may look correct. The
difference here will be in the amplitude, or peak-to-peak height, of the
pattern. In the case of timing issues that cause low compression across
the board, the amplitude will be lower than normal.

KNOWN BAD



To identify the weak cylinder, add what is called a "reference" signal to
your scope. Any ignition coil makes a good reference because the spark
event occurs just before TDC on the compression stroke of its cylinder.

And it doesn't have to be #1 cylinder. Just use the firing order of the
engine matched with the ignition coil you selected to countdown to the
offending cylinder.


KNOWN GOOD WITH REFERENCE



KNOWN GOOD WITH REFERENCE CLOSE UP



KNOWN BAD



KNOWN BAD WITH REFERENCE AND FIRING ORDER ILLUSTRATED



RELATIVE COMPRESSION TESTING WITHOUT A HIGH AMP CURRENT
CLAMP

Remember the battery voltage test? Remember how the voltage also
dropped as the starter motor began to turn?

We can use that to also perform a relative compression test. And all
you have to do is connect your scope to the battery!

1. Connect channel A to battery positive and negative terminals
2. Scope settings:
VOLTAGE
Channel A - 20v total range minimum
TIME - 500 ms per division
TRIGGER - user preference, Single capture mode recommended

KNOWN GOOD



The difference here is that the peaks we need to focus on are going in
the opposite direction as the peaks we focused on in the relative
compression current pattern. But most scopes allow you to flip the
pattern around, or "invert" it, so it looks like this:



Or, even easier, you can simply swap the meter leads and connect your
negative lead to the positive battery terminal, and the positive lead to
the negative battery terminal!

You can take this measurement at the battery or at the Diagnostic Link
Connector, using a DLC breakout box.





BASE IGNITION TIME CHECK

In the old days, we checked ignition timing with a synchronized strobe
light and adjusted it by rotating the ignition distributor. But for many
years now, that is no longer possible.

Yet timing issues can still occur. How do you check ignition timing now?

Remember this pattern?



If the peaks of the current pattern (green) represent TDC of each piston
on its compression stroke, and the voltage pattern (blue) is the firing
line associated with an ignition coil AND the coil (at idle) fires just
before TDC, doesn't it make sense that this line should intersect the
current pattern just before that peak?





This also provides us with an indication of ignition timing! If the timing
belt or chain has shifted, the ignition event will also shift - typically to
the left - a noticeable amount.















TIMING CHECK USING CAM/CRANK SENSOR SIGNAL SYNCHRONIZATION



You can also use the camshaft sensor and crankshaft sensor signals to
verify timing. The only drawback to this test is that you MUST have a
KNOWN GOOD to compare to and that MUST be an exact match to the
engine/model/year that you are diagnosing.

You can also use this correlation to check VVT operation by
commanding the system "on" or "off" and noting the change in the two
signal's relationship.

To begin, review the system wiring diagram to identify the signal wires
for both sensors. You can attach the positive scope lead to the signal
wire and ground the scope lead to the battery's negative terminal.
Attach at the most convenient location - the sensor, an inline
connector, or at the ECM.

NOTE: Be careful of backprobing any ECU connector. If you pierce a
wire to gain access, be sure to seal the hole in the wire's insulation
using liquid electrical tape.

1. Connect channel A to crankshaft sensor signal.
2. Connect channel B to camshaft sensor signal.
3. Scope settings:
VOLTAGE
Channel A - 20v total range minimum
Channel B - 20v total range
TIME - 20ms per division
TRIGGER - user preference, REPEAT or NORMAL mode preferred




KNOWN GOOD



The "hash" you see on the pattern is noise under the hood. Some
scopes have the ability to filter out then noise for a clearer waveform.

IGNITION PRIMARY - CAUTION

Often, it is easier to access the primary side of the ignition system than
it is the secondary side. If you can't access the coil directly, you can
always access a connection point or the control side of the coil directly
at the ECM.

However, there is a phenomenon known as "flyback" voltage that you
need to understand before testing an ignition primary coil or any other
electrical coil.

You understand that an ignition coil has two windings; a primary and a
secondary. The primary is energized and the current flowing through it
creates a magnetic field around it. When the circuit is opened, the
magnetic field collapses and this energized the secondary winding,
producing the voltage potential necessary to jump the plug's gap and
ignite the air/fuel mixture. That secondary output can be as high as
80,000 volts (80kV) on a modern automobile!

Not only is voltage produced in the secondary when the primary
magnetic field collapses, it is also produced in the primary as well. This
produces a mirror image of the voltage potential in the secondary that
we can use for diagnosis. It also produces a "flyback" voltage as high as
500v that can also damage our scope if we aren't careful!

To protect your scope, use an attenuator to reduce the actual voltage
getting to it. This tool usually goes in line with your scope lead and can
be either a 10:1 or 20:1 reduction. That is, for every 10 or 20 volts
coming in, 1 volt will go out to your meter.




SAMPLE ATTENUATOR



With the attenuator in place, you'll need to select it from your scope's
menu or adjust the voltage scale accordingly.














IGNITION PRIMARY TESTING - VOLTAGE AND CURRENT




NOTE: Connections at the coil for voltage measurements will vary from
one coil design to another. Using a system wiring diagram, identify the
control side of the coil. For COP coils using a power transistor, look for
the igniter signal from the ECM. (These coils will NOT provide a mirror
of the secondary, however).

1. Connect channel A to control side of the ignition coil.
2. Connect channel B to the low amp current clamp. Set the clamp to
20 amps, zero the tool and then connect to coil's power feed. NOTE:
This may be most easily accessed at the fuse box if the fuse powers only
the ignition coils.
3. Scope settings:

VOLTAGE
Channel A - 500v range (with attenuation)
Channel B - 20 amp range
TIME - 2ms per division
TRIGGER - user preference, REPEAT or NORMAL preferred

KNOWN GOOD



There is more information in this pattern then we have room to discuss
in this reference. Here is where you'll need to spend some time doing
some homework on your own!

Watch Jim Morton's presentation on interpreting ignition patterns
here: https://youtu.be/yCchGNQEMdE





INJECTORS AND SOLENOIDS - CAUTION

These, too, can produce "flyback" voltages that may be harmful to your
scope. It is always best to first use some form of attenuation first. You
can always remove the attenuation once you've determined that the
input voltage is lower than your scope's maximum allowable.

Some injectors on GDI engines as well as those used on diesel engines
may be piezoelectric, using high voltages to operate.

DO NOT attempt to test these using the included procedure and
settings. SCOPE DAMAGE AND PERSONAL INJURY COULD OCCUR.





















INJECTORS AND SOLENOIDS

This test can be used on ANY electrical solenoid to inspect both its
mechanical and electrical integrity, including solenoids that function as
fuel injectors, transmission shift solenoids, and EVAP purge or vent
solenoids.



1. Connect channel A to control side of the injector coil.
2. Connect channel B to the low amp current clamp. Set the clamp to
20 amps, zero the tool and then connect to coil's power feed. NOTE:
This may be most easily accessed at the fuse box.
3. Scope settings:

VOLTAGE
Channel A - 200v range (with attenuation if needed)
Channel B - 20 amp range
TIME - 2ms per division
TRIGGER - user preference, REPEAT or NORMAL preferred


KNOWN GOOD

NOTE: Ground side controlled solenoids are shown. Those controlled
on the power feed side will show as inverted when compared. Current
waveforms will remain the same.











ANALYSIS - VOLTAGE



A - The pattern starts off at system voltage, the same as running
charging system voltage. The vertical drop occurs when the ECM driver
pulls the solenoid circuit to ground.

If we look more closely at this point, we should see the voltage drop
from system voltage to roughly 0.70v when the scope is connected to
the battery ground terminal. The offset is referred to as a "floating"
ground and is common to any component whose ground first goes
through an ECU. It is there to prevent component interference.

To check the integrity of the ground path, you'll need to reference your
scope's ground to the solenoid's ground directly at the controlling ECU.

The time difference from the point where voltage is pulled to ground to
the point the ground is released (as noted by the sharp vertical rise in
voltage) is the "on time" of the solenoid. In the case of a fuel injector,
this time should be very close to the pulse width commanded by the
ECM as seen on your scan tool.

B - This is the "flyback" voltage produced as the power feed is closed
and the magnetic field that is used to open the solenoid collapses. It is a
good indication of the electrical health of the solenoid.

C - Look closely as the voltage level begins its return to system voltage.
See the little "bump"? This is called the "pintle hump" and is caused as
the solenoid valve is pulled closed by the return spring. As the metal
valve passes through the electrical winding, it creates a small magnetic
field and resulting small voltage potential you see here.

This verifies that the solenoid opened and it can be monitored while
running if you suspect the solenoid is sticking intermittently.












ANALYSIS - CURRENT


Note how the current "ramp" mirrors the "on time" of the voltage
pattern. Look closely - see the small "dip"? This is the pintle opening on
the solenoid and verifies that the valve opened mechanically. It can also
be used to check for an intermittent sticky solenoid by looking for a
shift in the dip's occurrence or absence altogether.

If you access the fuse that powers a series of injectors (or ignition coils
for that matter), you can "see" the current patterns for each
component. If one does have an electrical issue, it will stand out from
the others.

NOTE: Some older injector designs were called "peak and hold", and
will display patterns very different from the one shown here.

Additionally, some solenoid designs may "clip" the "flyback" voltage
to protect the driver in the ECU. Always review the system wiring
diagrams and theory of operation in the service information system to
identify what type of solenoid you are connecting to.


























FUEL PUMPS AND ELECTRIC MOTORS



Current patterns can provide a great deal of diagnostic information. The
use of "current ramping" to check the mechanical and electrical
condition of a conventional brush-type fuel pump is a technique that
has been used for the last few decades.

But it can also be used to inspect any kind of brush-type DC motor, like
the ones that operate the power windows and other systems on the
vehicle. And current is the easiest measurement to get - since you can
place the amp clamp on either side of the circuit. The easiest, though, is
accessing the circuit's power via the fuse in the fuse block using a fused
jumper wire or specialty tool often called a "Fuse Buddy".

1. Identify the fuse that powers the motor you wish to inspect.
2. Install the Fuse Buddy or use a fused jumper lead to replace the
component fuse.
3. Attach the low amp clamp to the Fuse Buddy or fused jumper wire.
4. Connect the low amp clamp to channel A of your scope.
3. Scope settings:

VOLTAGE
Channel A - 20 amp range
TIME - 50ms per division
TRIGGER - user preference, REPEAT or NORMAL preferred

To test the fuel pump, start and run the engine at idle. To test any other
electric motor, operate the motor (in both directions if that is a
component option) and save the results to your scope.

KNOWN GOOD FUEL PUMP



Each peak represents the connection of the motor's windings, through
the commutator, to the brushes and back to power and ground. A good
pump will have peaks that vary very little in amplitude (remember that
term?). If you notice that any of the peaks are choppy or flattened, it is
an indication that the brush/commutator point of contact is worn.

It is important to remember that resistance in a motor circuit is a bit
different than other circuits. Why? Because the motor is working
against some kind of load - opening a window or pumping fuel, for
example. If the load is restrictive, current demand will increase. And if
the load is not functioning or non-existent, current demand will drop.

Remember our starter motor current?

You can use your scope's cursors to measure the time it takes to
complete one revolution and do a little math do determine the rotation
speed of the pump.



You can also measure the actual average current draw by splitting the
difference between peaks across the pattern.







These two measurements, when compared with "known good", can
help you determine if the pump is working hard against a load or
spinning freely. Both can help determine the mechanical condition of
the pump and the system.

High current, slow speed: Suspect restriction in system downstream
from fuel pump or restricted movement of load being powered by
motor under test.

Low current, high speed: Suspect no fuel being pumped by fuel pump.
Fuel tank empty OR fuel filter feeding pump well is clogged.







WHAT'S THE BEST SCOPE TEST?

The best scope test is the one you imagine and execute. Techs have
used their scopes to identify a variety of engine mechanical issues, used
the scope to perform "if/then" tests to verify system and component
operation, even used their scopes to isolate the cause of a customer's
vibration complaint!

The best scope test is the one you perform TODAY, to get to know your
scope and its features, as well as its capabilities.

Use your scope to perform some kind of test or measurement on EVERY
car you service, begin to develop your own database of "known good"
captures and you, too, will become a scope master!

RESOURCES

Pico (UK): http://www.PicoAuto.com

AES: http://www.AESWave.com

Diagnostic Network: http://www.diag.net/

Automotive Test Solutions: http://www.AutomotiveTestSolutions.com

International Automotive Technicians Network (iATN):
http://www.iATN.net

Motor Age magazine on YouTube:
https://www.youtube.com/MotorAgeMagazine

TST on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/TSTseminars

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