Nähmaschinen Technik

Sewing technology
PFAFF Subclass Version A, B, C, CD, D for leather Machine

Subclass Needle hole tooth pitch Needle size Thread size

Version

A 1,0 1,0 1,0 60 80/3

A 1,2 1,3 60 – 70 80/3

B 1,6 1,5 80 – 100 60/3 - 40/3

C 2,2 1,8 110 – 140 30/3 – 20/3

C/D 2,6 2,2 160 – 180 20/3 – 15/3

D 2,6 2,2 160 – 180 15/3 – 10/3

Nähmaschinen Technik
Sewing technology
Fadendrehrichtung, (Thread direction)
Depending on the application, the twine or twine receives an S or Z twist.
Sewing threads (3-fold) are normally produced in a Z-rotation. They are
called a single-stage direct twist. The multi-stage twist is the one-step
twist twisted from single yarns. (Pre-twisting) which, upon further rotation,
result in the two-stage twist. By continuation of the twisting usually in the
direction of the pre-rotation up to four-stage twists arise. For a fourfold top
yarn, e.g. The yarn has a Z- the pre-twist a S- the end twine a Z-twist.

The Z rotation adapts to the gripper rotation direction of the industrial

machines insofar as the sewing thread is rotated about its own axis in the
twisting direction during the withdrawal from the needle and during its
travel around the gripper.

In 2 needle machines with two grippers rotating in the same direction, a Z-

twisted sewing thread is turned up by the opposing trigger from the left
needle and the seam pattern therefore deviates somewhat from that of the
right needle because of the loose twisting structure. S-twisted sewing
threads are only made separately for special purposes. An improvement
in the seam pattern produced with the left needle can be achieved by
slightly rotating the needle or by using a needle with a right-hand tip (CR).

Note: Nowadays almost exclusively Z-twisted sewing

S-turning threads are used.
Z-turning
left right
Nähzwirne, (Thread direction)
Nadeldicke zu Nähgarn, (Needle Size to Thread Tickness
Regel:
The sewing thread specifies the minimum needle size.
Thinner needles will not produce a good sewing result.
Thicker material may require a thicker needle.

Ideal needle size, the thread has the least force

best sewing result

Needle is too small Thread break / thread damage,

unclean seam look

Needle is too big. Missing stitches / thread damage

Nähmaschinen Technik
Sewing technology
Nadel Aufbau, Needle form
Kolbenstirn
Piston forehead
Kolben
Piston

Nadelkonus (Ansatz)
Needle Cone Schaft
Shaft

Lange Rille
Long Groove

Hohlkehle
Fillet
Öhr
Spitze Eye
tip
Nadel funktion, Needle function

Stichplatte
Needle plate
Nähgut
Fabric
Nadelfaden Nadelfadenschlinge
Needle thread Needle thread loop

Greifewelle
Nadel- Hook shaft
Schlingenhub
Needle rise

Greiferspitze
Grab tips
Nadel funktion, Needle function

Fadenführung mit der SAN 5.2

There are two grooves in the needle. On the side of the fillet is a short and on the other side a long groove. The
thread is placed in this groove so that it is brought through the material as smoothly as possible. Due to the friction
at the upper end of the short groove, the loop formation is supported during the upward movement of the needle.

Like all thread-leading parts, the eye of the eye must be carefully polished to avoid thread breakage.
Needle points Version for Shoes and Leather
LR-point
Cuts the leather to the right at
45° angle In the direction of sewing.
Slight to medium
Slanted stitch formation, depanding
on the Leather. The sewn thread
is slighty elevated. Stitch holes are
easily visible.
Suitable for short to medium stitches.
Application field:
For decorative seams to soft and
medium/hard leather type.
Can be used on almost every type
of leather.
LL-point
Cuts the leather to the left at
45° angle In the direction of sewing.
Straight stitch formation. The sewn
thread is slighty elevated. Stitch
holes are filled. Suitable for medium
to Short stitches.
Application field:
For all soft/medium leather type.
Sutiable for straight sewing.
Needle points Version for Shoes and Leather
S-point
Cuts the leather in direction of
sewing. Straight in -line stitch
appearance. In certain leather and
with paticular stitch lenghts, deep –
set stitches are formed. Long and
visible stitch holes. Suited for medium
to long stitch lenghts.
Application field:
For straight seams with deep –set
straight stitches.
Suitable for most leathers.
D-point
Cuts the leather with a prominent
triangular shape. The sewn thread is
slighty elevated. Stitch holes are
tivaly large. Medium to Short stitches.
possible
Application field:
For hard and thick leather.
Sutiable for straight sewing.
Needle points Version for Shoes and Leather

DH-point VR -point
Leather is cut with a medium Technially obsolete point style.
triangular shape. Straight stitch Cutting effect, seam appearance
apperarnce. The sewn thread is and seam characteristics identical
slightly elevated. Stitch holes are to LR-point.
relatively large. Suited to medium to
long stitches. Application field:
For hard leather
Application field:
For medium hard and thick leather.
Sutiable for straight sewing.
Needle points Version for Garment
• Needle System Europe - Asia
• NEEDLE SIZE
• NM/Europe ASIA/Japan USA MR
• 50 6
• 60 8 .022 .1,0
• 65 9 .025 .2,0
• 70 10 .027 .2,5
• 75 11 .029 .2,5
• 80 12 .032 .2,5
• 85 13 .3,0
• 90 14 .036 .3,0
• 95 15 .3,5
• 100 16 .040 .3,5
• 105 17 .042 .4,0
• 110 18 .044 .4,0
• 120 19 .048 .5,0
• 125 20 .049 .5,0
• 130 21 .5,0 Garment Leder
• 140 22 .054 .6,0 Needle system 134 Europe Needle system 134 Europe
= DPx5 Asia = DBx1 Asia
• 160 23 .060 .6,0 (Needle shank = 2,0 mm) (Needle shank = 2,0 mm)
• 180 24 .078 .7,0
Nähmaschinen Technik
Sewing technology
Nähstichtypen, (Stitch type)

Es gibt 3 grundsätzliche Sticharten Handstiche (200), Kettenstiche, (100,

400,500,600,800), Doppelsteppstiche (300)

There are 3 basic stitches, hand stitches (200), chain stitches, (100,
400,500,600,800), Look stitches (300)

100 Einfachkettenstich (Single-thread Chainstitch )

200 Handstitch
300 Steppstich
400 2 Faden Kettenstich
500 Überwendlingstich
600 2 Nadel Überdeckstich
(Backstitch)
(Lockstitch)
(Two-thread chainstitch)
(Overedge chainstitch)
(Two-thread chainstitch covering stitch)
600 2 Nadel Überdeckstich (2 -thread chainstitch covering stitch)
Nähmaschinen Technik
Sewing technology
Maschinenausfühungen, types of sewing machine

Grundplattenmaschine, Flatbed machine

Freiarmnähmaschine, Cylinder bed machine

rechtsständige Armnähmaschine, right hand cylinder bed
Linksständige Armnähmaschine, left hand clyinder bed
Armabwärtsnähmaschine, Feed off the arm machine
Armaufwärtsnähmaschine, Feed up the arm machine

left right

Sockelnähmaschine
Säulenmaschine z.B Überwendlichnähmaschine
Post bed machine Sub frame (mono-block)
machine overedgers
Nähmaschinen Technik
Sewing technology
Fadenhebel Ausführungen, (Take up lever)

Kurvenfadenhebel Gleitfadenhebel Gelenkfadenhebel Umlauffadenhebel

A - Fadenhebel A - Fadenhebl A - Fadenhebel A - rotierende Scheibe
B - Kurve B - Gleitführung B - Lenker B - umlaufender
C - Rollerbolzen C - Fadenleitpunkt der
Scheibe
Nähmaschinen Technik
Sewing technology
Nähtechnik, (Sewing technology)

Die gebräuchlichen Schiffchen und Doppelsteppstichgreifer

The common boats and double-stitch grippers

Ringschiffchen, CD Schiffchen Barrel-Schiffchen Umlaufgreifer Umlaufgreifer

= Zentralspulen- an horizontaler Welle an Vertikaler Welle
Schiffchen = Horizontalgreifer = Vertikalgreifer
Nähtechnik, (Sewing technology)
Nähtechnik, (Sewing technology)
 Nähmaschinen Technik
Sewing technology

Schlingstichbereich Knotted stitches area

Knotted stitches area with different Hook and Shuttle

Buttonhole Hook Vertical Hook Horizontal Hook 2080

Einfädel- Einfädel-
richtung richtung
Threading Threading
direction direction

Einfädel- Threading Transportrichtung Transportrichtung

richtung direction Vorwärts Vorwärts
Transportrichtung Feeding direction Feeding direction Feeding direction
Vorwärts forward forward forward

Schlingstichbereich (Knotted stitches area)

Knotted stitches area with different hook and shuttle

CB Hook Beak Shuttle

Einfädel-
richtung

Threading
direction

Transportrichtung Feeding direction Transportrichtung Feeding direction

Vorwärts Forward Vorwärts forward
Einfädelrichtung Threading direction

Schlingstichbereich (Knotted stitches area)

Knotted stitches area with different hook and shuttleg
Zig Zag Hook 930
Zig – zag stitch
straight stitch Left penetration Right pentetration

Transportrichtung
Vorwärts
Feeding direction
forward
Einfädelrichtung
Einfädelrichtung
Threading direction
Threading direction

Schlingstichbereich (Knotted stitches area)

Orientation of cords near multi-directional sewing with CB Hook

Threading direction
Nr. 1 = Light S - Layer with partly simple Knotted stitches
Nr. 2 = Normal S - Layer
Nr. 3 = Normal S - Layer
Nr. 4 = Normal S - Layer
Nr. 5 = Normal S - Layer
Nr. 6 = Z – Layer Double knotted stitch
Nr. 7 = Z – Layer Double knotted stitch
Nr. 8 = Z – Layer Double knotted stitch
Knotted
Stitches Area

Threading direction
Schlingstichbereich PFAFF CNC Maschinen
Knotted stitches area PFAFF CNC Machine
Knotted stitches area 3590_50x30, 50x40 Vertical Hook
Template feeding direction
forwards

Knotted area
Red line
Knotted stitch = Threading direction , Hook durning direction
and Feeding direction
3590 Portal Schlingstich Gesetzmäßigkeit Vertikal Greifer

Template feeding direction

forwards

Knotted area
Red line Knotted stitch = Threading direction , Hook durning direction
and Feeding direction
3590 Vario with out Needle bar turning and bobbin thread slide
Basic law of knotted stitches 3590 Vario with vertical Hook

1. Top thread and bobbin thread right of the needle seen from the threading
direction. Normal stitching , appearance of torsion „S“ angled
Basic law of knotted stitches 3590 Vario with vertical Hook

2. Top thread right and bobbin thread left of the needle.

Knotted stitch, appearance of torsion „Z“ angled
Basic law of knotted stitches 3590 Vario with vertical Hook

3. Top thread left and bobbin thread right of the needle.

Double knotted stitch, appearance of torsion „S“ angled
Basic law of knotted stitches 3590 Vario with vertical Hook

4. Top thread left and bobbin thread left of the needle. Normal stitching, appearance
of torsion „S“ angled. Forced position due of the needle turning and bobbin thread
slide
3590 Vario with Needle bar turning and bobbin thread slide
Nähmaschinen Technik
Sewing technology
100 Einfachkettenstich, (Single-thread Chainstitch)

1 2

3 4
Doppelkettenstich Ablauf, (Doppel chainstitich)

1 2 3

4 5 6
Nähmaschinen Technik
Sewing technology
Transportsysteme, (Transport systems)

Drop feed Drop feed and Unison feed Drop feed and Differential-Drop Differential-
Needle feed variable top feed feed and Top feed Drop feed
Compount feed

Drop feed and Wheel- needle feed Puller feed

Wheel needle feed Wheel feed and Drop feed and
and roller
Top feed and no driven roller roller presser Puller feed
(alternating) presser
presser
PFAFF Transportsystem Nummer, (PFAFF Transport systems Number)

Sample : 1245-6/01-900/56-911/97 CLPMN8

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0

Untertransport und Differential-

Untertransport und Untertransport Unter-Ober-und
Nadeltransport veränderlicher Untertransport
Nadeltransport
Drop feed Obertransport
differential
Compount feed Unison feed
Drop feed and variable drop feed
top feed
Nähtechnik, (Sewing technology)
Spannungskräuseln
entsteht vor allem, wenn ein relativ leichtes Material mit zu starker Spannung genäht wird oder der Nähfaden eine
zu große Eigenelastizität hat.

Tension Curl
Occurs especially when a relatively light material is sewn with too high a tension or the sewing thread has too
much inherent elasticity.
Nähtechnik, (Sewing technology)
Spannungskräuseln
Tension Curl
Eine zu hohe Fadenspannung einer der beiden Nähfäden verursacht eine ungünstige Fadenverteilung von Nadel und Greiferfaden
Too high a thread tension of one of the two sewing threads causes an unfavourable thread distribution of needle and hook thread

Ungünstige Fadenverteilung beim Doppelsteppstich Nadelfadenspannung zu hoch bzw. Greiferfadenspannung zu niedrig

Unfavorable thread distribution at double lockstitch needle thread tension too high or Looper thread tension too low

Ungünstige Fadenverteilung beim Doppelsteppstich Greiferfadenspannung zu hoch bzw. Nadelfadenspannung zu niedrig.

Unfavorable thread distribution at double Lockstitch Hook thread tension too high or needle thread tension too low
Nähtechnik, (Sewing technology)

Transportkräuseln, Transport curling

entsteht durch Lagenverschub. Besonders
empfindlich ist hierfür Nähgut mit glatter
Oberfläche.
is caused by shift of position. Particularly
sensitive is this material with a smooth surface.

Verdrängungskräuseln, Displacement frizz

hat seine Ursache in der Dichte des Nähgutes. Es tritt vor allem
auf, wenn die nähte genau in der Kettrichtung des Materials
liegen
has its cause in the density of the sewing material. It especially
occurs when the seams are exactly in the warp direction of the
material