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Version 03 | November 2018
AFIRM Chemistry Toolkit | November 2018
Table of Contents
3. Where Are the Risks?............................................................................ 6 Phylmar staff members: Nathaniel Sponsler and Elena Slagle
5. RSL Testing......................................................................................... 11
Appendix A. Brand Strategy for RSL Management.............................. 13 Arun Upadhyay, Andy Chen, Frank Kempe, Frank Opdenacker,
Kitty Man, Mary Grim, Nathaniel Sponsler, and Ylva Holmquist
Appendix B. Model RSL Testing Program for Brands........................... 16
Phylmar staff members: Elizabeth Treanor, Eric Rozance, and
Appendix C. RSL Failure Resolution Form............................................ 19 Paige Stump
Appendix D. Examples of RSL Failures & Corrective Actions.............. 20 Outside contributors: Ben Mead, Dieter Sedlak, and Jane Murphy
Appendix E. Best Practices for Screen-Printing
Applications & Finishing......................................................................... 31
Apparel and Footwear International RSL Management (AFIRM) Group is the author of this work.
You may reuse or adapt this work, but we ask that you provide attribution to AFIRM Group as a courtesy.
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AFIRM Mission
AFIRM is the Apparel and Footwear International RSL Management (AFIRM) Working Group, established in 2004. AFIRM’s mission is “to reduce the use
and impact of harmful substances in the apparel and footwear supply chain.” AFIRM’s purpose is to provide a forum to advance the global management of
restricted substances in apparel and footwear, communicate information about chemical management to the supply chain, discuss concerns, and exchange
ideas for improving chemical management.
AFIRM Vision
AFIRM continues to be a recognized global center of excellence, providing resources to enable continuous advancement of chemical management best
practices. We do this based on transparency, science, and collaboration with relevant industries and experts to build safer and more sustainable chemistry
within the apparel and footwear supply chains. It is understood that in adopting this vision, AFIRM’s mission, objectives, and projects will continue to be
product-focused or RSL-related.
This Chemistry Toolkit provides an overview of basic information on how to begin to implement an RSL program, which is a highly customized process that
depends on many factors, including the products being produced and where they are sold.
Many brands also have implementation guidelines, and suppliers must follow those guidelines, where available. The reader should not rely on this document
to address specific questions that apply to a particular set of facts: All questions should be directed to the specific brand company whose products are at issue.
There is no warranty, express or implied, as to the completeness or utility of the information in this document, including, without limitation, that the information
contained herein will be error free. In addition, AFIRM assumes no liability of any kind whatsoever resulting from the use of or reliance upon the contents of
this document.
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1. Introduction
In response to feedback from the global supply chain, Apparel and Footwear International RSL Management
Working Group (AFIRM Group) has updated this Chemistry Toolkit as part of our ongoing mission “to reduce the
use and impact of harmful substances in the apparel and footwear supply chain.”
Definition of “Restricted Substances” Why Substances Are Restricted AFIRM Chemistry Toolkit Overview
Restricted substances are chemicals and Substances are restricted for many reasons. This Chemistry Toolkit focuses on the needs
other substances the use and/or presence Some substances are restricted due to of brands, suppliers, and upstream vendors—
of which has been banned or otherwise concern for the environment, while others are including raw material and chemical suppliers,
restricted by a brand. restricted due to health and safety concerns mills, dye houses, trim and packaging
for workers or consumers. Some are suppliers, screen-printers, factories, and other
Typically, a restricted substance must be restricted by legislation. business entities involved in the manufacture
absent from a finished product or present of apparel and footwear finished goods.
below maximum allowable levels. Substances are restricted in different ways.
As noted above, some substances are Notable additions to this update of the
Restricted substances may be restricted banned from use during the manufacturing Toolkit include an extensive Chemical
across many industries, across one industry, process or banned from finished products Guidance Document (Appendix H) and RSL
or in certain products or inputs. entirely. Other substances might be banned if Corrective Action Examples (Appendix D).
they are present above certain concentration Both references provide specific technical
Please see Appendix J for a glossary of limits or if they leach a certain amount from a information to help eliminate or reduce
other relevant terms. finished product under predefined conditions. restricted substances in finished goods
to meet brand requirements for restricted
In each case, a substance restriction is substances.
usually accompanied by a test method that
brands and suppliers can use to verify if a While this Toolkit is primarily focused on
chemical is present and, if so, to ensure eliminating restricted substances from
the chemical is below the restricted level. finished products, extensive information
about chemical discharge into wastewater,
air emissions, and solid waste is available in
Appendix H.
AFIRM Welcomes Your Feedback to Inform Future Toolkit Updates
The AFIRM training committee made a concerted effort to update this 2018 Chemistry Toolkit. Our aim is
n their journeys toward chemical
to make it as reader-friendly and useful as possible for brands beginning
compliance as well as for suppliers educating themselves on these topics. Reach out to us with suggestions
for topics to include in future updates as well as feedback regarding content you found unnecessary.
Your comments will help us improve the Toolkit to meet your needs! Contact: nsponsler@phylmar.com
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AFIRM Chemistry Toolkit | November 2018
that all footwear, apparel, accessories, and ensure that you are using the correct list. If a
RESTRICTED
SUBSTANCES
equipment comply with the requirements of customer does not have an RSL, the AFIRM
the RSL on an on-going basis. RSL is a good place to start.
AFIRM recommends that suppliers understand The AFIRM RSL lists substances currently LIST
Version 03 | 2018
the purpose of an RSL and develop their own subject to legislated limits around the world,
programs to ensure they comply with as well as limits based on best practices in the
their customers’ RSL requirements. apparel and footwear industries. New for 2018
• Updates to Test Methods and Limits
• Chemical Information Sheets:
Best Practices for Chemical Management
environmental and health and safety risk group.com/afirm-rsl/. Its policy has been
assessments, current and anticipated legal adopted by many brands—both AFIRM
members as well as non-members.
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NO
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series of Chemical Information Sheets. documents to address specific questions. All Best Practices for Chemical Management
Table 1, on the next page, provides links to questions should be directed to the specific Acetophenone and 2-Phenyl-2-Propanol
these publications in four languages. brand whose products are at issue.
Other Names Uses in the Supply Chain
There are few direct uses of acetophenone or 2-phenyl-2-
These documents serve as a single point of AFIRM assumes no liability of any kind
Acetophenone • Methyl phenyl ketone
• Acetylbenzene propanol in the supply chain. These two chemicals are
2-Phenyl- • 1-Hydroxycumene byproducts when a peroxide initiator called dicumyl peroxide
reference for the substances (or categories of whatsoever resulting from the use of
2-Propanol • Dimethylphenylmethanol (DCP) is used in ethyl-vinyl-acetate (EVA) foam production.
DCP initiates a cross-linking reaction in EVA foam by creating
peroxide radicals, and both acetophenone and 2-pheyl-2-
documents.
617-94-7 2-Phenyl-2-Propanol Why Acetophenone and 2-Phenyl-2-Propanol
Are Restricted
Acetophenone has a sweet pungent odor of orange blossom
restricted, as well as guidance on sourcing Sourcing Compliant Materials from Your Suppliers
• 2-Phenyl-2-propanol is not classified
compliant materials or safer alternatives. EVA polymers created using DCP as a cross linker may contain some level of acetophenone and 2-phenyl-2-propanol.
Engaging in a conversation with your material supplier to discuss this issue is the best way to procure materials with the
lowest levels of Acetophenone and 2-phenyl-2-propanol possible.
While it may be possible to reduce the amount of the byproducts with stringent processing controls, it is unlikely that a
complete absence of these two chemistries will be achieved when DCP is used.
Safer Alternatives
There are alternative recipes for creating EVA polymers that do not require DCP as a cross-linker, but each has the
potential to create other additional byproducts.
Resources
1
Acetophenone. U. S. Environmental Protection Agency. January 2000. Retrieved from
https://www.epa.gov/sites/production/files/2016-09/documents/acetophenone.pdf
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Formaldehyde
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5. RSL Testing
Many brands have specific RSL testing requirements. If your customer does not have testing requirements, AFIRM
recommends that all suppliers develop a testing program of their own. Appendix B represents a brand testing
program, which is from the brand’s point of view and may be helpful in understanding testing issues. If your
customer does not have testing requirements, suppliers are encouraged to trust, but verify, that vendors are RSL-
compliant through a testing program.
Brand-approved Laboratories Criteria for Selecting a Laboratory • Are in-house protocols documented in
manuals? Are they available to customers?
Typically, brands have their own lists of If your customer does not have a list of
approved laboratories, and test samples approved laboratories, here are some • Has the lab ever been denied or lost
must be sent only to laboratories approved considerations to keep in mind when certification?
by the brand. choosing a laboratory for your own testing.
• Is a list of key scientists, including their
• Does the lab hold certifications or degrees, certifications, etc. available?
accreditations? From whom?
• Is a list of major on-site analytical equipment
(Accreditation is required by the U.S.
available?
Consumer Product Safety Improvement
Act, enacted 14 August 2008.) • Is a list of reference methods the lab
routinely performs available?
• Does the lab follow good laboratory
practices (GLPs) or ISO 17025 guidelines? • Is a list of sample handling and preparation
capabilities available?
• Does the lab have a quality policy statement
or other document stating general quality • Approximately how many analyses does the
procedures? lab conduct per month or year?
• What was the date and result of a recent • What percentage of the lab’s analyses are
external audit? Is a report available? subcontracted to a third party?
• Does the lab belong to a private quality • In what languages are reports available?
assurance organization?
• Are data processed by hand or computer?
• Does the lab regularly participate in any
round-robin or blind sample testing? • Does the lab have an automated laboratory
information management system (LIMS)?
• Is the lab open to a site visit or audit?
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6. RSL Implementation
A well-governed RSL management program enables suppliers to meet various brand requirements and manage
chemical risks. AFIRM recommends the following steps to implement an effective RSL program.
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RSL Management
Long-term goals
Appendix A outlines a path for
brands commencing robust 2 3
RSL compliance programs. FINISHED-GOODS MATERIAL SUPPLIER &
FACTORY MANAGEMENT VENDOR MANAGEMENT
Figure 3 shows each step, with
corresponding best practices for
managing a program described 4
in text. AFIRM strongly suggests MATERIAL TESTING POLICY
that brands build compliance with
RSL requirements into the buying 5
process so that it is an integral part PRODUCTS FOR
of sourcing decisions. ADDITIONAL SCRUTINY
8
CORRECTIVE ACTIONS
9
REVISE AND UPDATE THE RSL POLICY
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Examples of short-term goals: 3 Material Supplier & Vendor Management 5 Products for Additional Scrutiny
• Identify RSL risk by materials. (See Risk from vendors can vary greatly. Your RSL You may have high-volume products, products
Section 3 and Appendices B and D.) management strategy should include verifying for kids, or products that come into direct
vendors’ understanding of and commitment contact with the skin.
• Set up the RSL risk control strategy. to global standards regarding restricted
substances. Globally recognized vendors See Appendix B, Figure 7, for more details
• Develop tracking report/system for tend to have this knowledge, and non-global about performing additional testing on these
strengthening RSL risk management. vendors may also have this knowledge products.
through their efforts. Also consider supplier
• Report all RSL test results to management
and product track records of RSL compliance,
on a monthly basis.
analyses, as well as passes and failures. Chemical Testing of Materials
6
and/or Products
Examples of long-term goals:
Formulate your management strategy to
minimize risk from vendors: The best way to manage the RSL is to employ
• Create an evaluation system to track factory
staff with in-depth knowledge about product
and vendor compliance (i.e. a scorecard).
• Do you classify vendors by RSL risk? chemistry. Learning the processes and
• Use the result of evaluation for future chemicals used by vendors is an important
• How do you define high-risk and low-risk factor to understand product chemistry. This
sourcing decisions.
vendors? can be achieved either by studying the SDSs
• Share the RSL database with vendors. of materials or by speaking to suppliers and
• How do you ensure that new vendors
visiting their factories. (See Appendix H for
understand and meet RSL requirements?
examples and an explanation of SDSs.)
2 Finished Goods Factory Management
Chemical testing is another tool to better
Identify your factory locations and ensure 4 Material Testing Policy understand product chemistry. A thorough
you have a list that includes: knowledge of the chemistry of the
List the material suppliers that your finished manufacturing process is also necessary to
• Factory name goods factories use and the materials they identify additional RSL risks that might be
supply. Determine if any of these materials introduced during manufacture.
• Location pose an increased risk. For example:
Any testing should prioritize components that
• Factory RSL contact name • High-risk materials might include leather, pose the highest risk. (See Section 3 and
synthetic leather, TPU, metal, injection, ink, Appendix D.) If required, chemical testing of
• Factory RSL project team—the staff and paint. components and products is preferable to
members responsible for RSL compliance testing upstream materials.
• High-risk colors may include fluorescent
colors, black-colored items, or items with a
metallic finish.
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7 RSL Data Management System 8 Corrective Action 9 Update and Revise the RSL Policy
RSL testing as described by the AFIRM group Though we would like to eliminate all risks, we Worldwide legislation is constantly changing.
covers approximately 300 chemistries across recognize that there will be some component It is important to revise your policy on a
12 product types. Not all tests are appropriate failures. The cause(s) of individual failures yearly basis. AFIRM updates the AFIRM RSL
for all material types. However, even with a can be many and varied. Root-cause analysis in January each year, for example. The data
small sub-set of analytes being tested, there should be performed to determine how to best gathered in the previous years’ testing can be
will eventually be a large set of data for your reduce risk of RSL violations. See Appendix C used to inform updates to the policy as well.
brand. for a failure resolution form useful for recording For example, shifting focus onto materials your
and retaining this information for future supply chain is struggling to meet the policy
A robust data-management system is reference and to provide to brand customers. on and moving focus away from lower risk
essential for brands to have a state-of-the-art materials in your supply chain.
compliance program. Formulate a corrective action plan that works
best for non-compliance issues. Important
Such a system will allow a brand to: things to do immediately:
• More closely assess their own supply chain • Stop all further production of the non-
with respect to product types. compliant material/product.
• Pinpoint reliable and unreliable suppliers. • Assess scope of the problem and the
current location of the non-compliant
• Identify analytes of high concern in different material.
materials.
• Work with the vendor/supplier to ensure
• Prove compliance to appropriate legislators. they do not ship non-complaint material.
• Effectively track failure resolutions and Follow-up actions can include:
corrective actions.
• Understanding the root cause of the
• Be transparent with vendors and suppliers. problem.
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To ensure chemical compliance and the This testing program applies to all brand As part of their responsibilities, it is important
safety of finished goods. finished goods, including clothing, that brands perform a degree of analytical
accessories, jewelry, footwear, sport testing to monitor and prove product and
equipment, packaging, etc. supplier performance. Auditing suppliers and
2 Objective setting specifications alone is insufficient to
The protocol also covers products not ensure products are legal and safe.
All finished goods must be reviewed according branded but for which the brands have
to an agreed-upon testing program to ensure legal responsibility. Analytical testing is not designed as a tool
that they are safe and legal. to manage quality, although the information
gathered from this testing may be used to
monitor this indirectly.
Figure 4. Procedure for Product Surveillance • This product data will be used to ensure its
chemical compliance and safety
IDENTIFY PRODUCT Refer to Figures 5 and 6 • This product data could be used as part
AND SUPPLIER of their defense to prove compliance when
challenged by trading standards / courts /
media / consumer groups / NGOs.
IDENTIFY TESTS Refer to Figure 7
• Test results will be used internally to
PASS: RECORD RESULT IN demonstrate that management processes
YOUR INFORMATION SYSTEM are in place and operating correctly.
4. PRODUCT TO
SEND
REVIEW TEST REPORT
LAB FOR TESTING
OUT OF SPECIFICATION (OOS): 5 Procedure
RECORD RESULT IN OOS TRACKER
AND INVESTIGATE Figure 4 outlines an example of a general,
high-level procedure for product surveillance.
Details on the first two steps are found in
following sections.
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6 Risk Assessment 7 Tips for Deciding What to Test • Supplier has historically performed well in
testing (e.g. no fail results in the past 12
Understanding the chemical risks in your All new suppliers should be deemed high risk months).
supply chain, processes, and product is and subject to a high-frequency testing until a
critical in making good and appropriate level of confidence is established. • Supplier has historically performed well in
decisions. (See Understanding Chemical the chemical aspects of quality, process,
Risks on page 7). Low-frequency testing can be implemented environment, and social audits.
for all suppliers who have, at a minimum, met
It is important to know the composition of the following requirements:
your products in order to adapt your testing
protocol. For example: • Supplier has a chemical management
system in place (e.g. policy, internal control
• Leather components could contain plan, collection of certificates, training, etc.)
Chromium VI, Short-chain Chlorinated and has been certified by bluesign® or
Paraffins, Azo Dyes, or Formaldehyde ZDHC on that topic.
• Decide what kind of testing is required for • Does not have a chemicals management program in place
each supplier (see Figure 5). • Chemistry-related issues during quality, social, process, and
environmental audits
• Decide what testing is required for each • Product issues
product (see Figure 6 on the next page).
• Identify any chemical and physical testing DOES THIS SUPPLIER HAVE A HISTORY OF
required (see Figure 7 on the next page). GOOD PERFORMANCE?
• Testing history of pass results; no OOS reports LOW-FREQUENCY TESTING
• Chemicals management program in place
• No chemistry-related issues during quality, social, process,
and environmental audits
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Vendor Code Factory Name* Factory Code Sample Submitter Company* Sample Submitter Contact Name*
There are a variety of tools
available to define, analyze, solve, Sample Submitter Contact Info (phone/fax/email)*
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Table of Contents
APEOs 21
Azo Dyes 22
Disperse Dyes 22
Chlorinated Phenols 23
Formaldehyde 24
Heavy Metals 26
Organotin Compounds 28
Phthalates 29
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APEOs were found on fabric in excess of APEO was detected in an insole board. NPEO was detected in a pigskin handbag.
the RSL limit.
APEOs occur in many steps of the production NPEOs are usually associated with
Many scouring agents, which are used to process, as they are commonly found in degreasing agents.
remove oils and fats from textiles, contain surfactant-based chemistries.
APEOs as a surfactant.
Contamination from APEOs can be a Root Cause
There are many alternatives currently common problem.
• Due to a ban on raw material products from
available without APEOs.
Japan, supplier had switched to a new
Corrective Actions degreasing agent for leather. This formula
Corrective Actions was found to contain NPEOs.
• Vendor sourced an APEO alternative scour
• Vendor sourced an APEO-alternative scour agent with no cost increase.
agent, with no cost increase. Corrective Action
• Brand communicated concern about APEOs
• Brand communicated concern about APEOs with vendor. • Using the ZDHC chemical gateway, the
to vendor. supplier found a decreasing agent that
complied with the ZDHC MRSL and did not
contain NPEOs.
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Cord supplier used a dyestuff that Restricted disperse dye was found in a
contained prohibited Azo Dyes in a corded woven label.
children’s sweater.
Restricted disperse dyes are used in polyester
dyeing and can cause allergic reactions.
Corrective Actions
Corrective Action
Polye
ster S
hir t
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Problem Problem
Corrective Action
Root Cause
• Printer switched from guar gum to alginate
• PCPs were found as contaminants in the thickener to avoid contamination problems.
adhesive used to manufacture the shoe.
Corrective Action
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Formaldehyde (APEOs)
Discharge screen print failed RSL limit Backing fabric treated with resin stiffener Cotton t-shirt treated with resin stiffener
for Formaldehyde. failed the RSL limit for Formaldehyde. failed the RSL limit for Formaldehyde.
Many ink systems contain Formaldehyde Urea Formaldehyde resins are common Urea Formaldehyde resins are common
to break down the color of the garment- chemicals used in durable press resins. chemicals used in durable press resins to
dyed fabric. produce a wrinkled effect.
Corrective Actions
Root Cause Root Cause
• In the short term, caps were washed to
• Printer found ink system was using Zinc reduce the amount of Formaldehyde. • Wrinkle finish was originally cured for
Formaldehyde Sulfoxylate (ZFS) catalyst. too short a period of time and at a lower
• Backing fabric was replaced with passing temperature than recommended.
fabric for some of the hats.
Corrective Actions
• No process control could be established to Corrective Actions
• Printer worked with ink supplier to optimize prevent Formaldehyde failure; new material
printing concentrations and to find a was developed to meet standards. • In the short term, garments were washed
Formaldehyde-free catalyst system for to reduce the amount of Formaldehyde.
discharge prints. • Factory had not switched materials for all
customers, so contamination from drying • Processes were changed to improve
• Curing times units needed to be monitored. durability and RSL compliance
and temperatures
were kept • Conditions were carefully controlled to
consistent to manage finished product compliance.
meet RSL
requirements.
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Formaldehyde-releasing melamine resin Cotton fabric failed children’s Formaldehyde was found in a full-grain
failed the RSL limit for Formaldehyde. Formaldehyde standard. leather wallet.
• Measurements were taken to prevent • In the short term, the leather supplier
occupational hazards when utilizing Corrective Actions decreased the percent of Formaldehyde-
diisocyanate crosslinker alternatives: containing tanning chemical in the material
• Supplier changed quality control procedures formula to reduce Formaldehyde amount in
• Proper cure time, correct ratios, to review the formula before commencing finished products.
controlled printing conditions. production for future orders.
• Leather supplier found a Formaldehyde-
• Chemical supplier provided a • Testing for affected products was increased free chemical to replace the contaminated
Formaldehyde-free option, but EH&S during development and production. chemical in the re-tanning process.
needed to be considered for new
chemistries.
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LEAD IN SOCK LINERS CHROMIUM IN WOOL & CHROMIUM (VI) IN LEATHER SHOES
NYLON FABRICS
Problem Problem
Problem
Lead was detected in the coating on the Chromium (VI) was detected in leather
top cover fabric of sock liners. Chromium was detected on wool and shoes above the RSL limit.
nylon fabrics.
Heavy metals, including lead, are often used in Chromium (III) can oxidize into Cr(VI) with
low-cost pigments and inks. Chromium can be used in metalized dyes. high temperatures, exposure to sunlight, and
low humidity.
• Long term,
only compliant
materials should
be produced
to avoid
contamination
issues.
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Printed heat transfer failed for mercury. Foil screen prints on children’s t-shirts PFOA was detected in a webbing fabric.
were found to contain Organotins.
Mercury can be used as a pigment but Long-chain Perfluorinated and Polyfluorinated
often contamination is the reason for Organotins are often used as heat stabilizers Chemicals (PFCs), such as PFOA, are used as
Mercury failures. in low-quality adhesives and prints used in cheaper alternatives to short-chain PFCs in
printing and transfer processes. Many non- DWR treatments. They can also be found as
Organotin alternatives exist. contaminants in short-chain PFC finishes.
Root Cause
• Processes were changed to mix inks in • Supplier used a higher quality adhesive that • Supplier substituted an MRSL-compliant
disposable mixing containers. had a non-Organotin heat stabilizer. alternative, which was free of long-chain
PFCs (PFOS / PFOA).
• Time frames were established for keeping
custom-mixed inks.
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In testing, screen-print inks containing PVC Company received consumer complaints Molded black rubber logo failed testing for
failed for DEHP (Phthalate). that flip-flop sandals had a sticky feeling Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAHs).
and were removing finishes on wood floors.
Phthalates are often used to soften ink and PAHs can be found as a contaminant in
prevent cracking. There are many non- Plasticizers are commonly used in plastics carbon black and are sometimes used in
Phthalate plasticizers available. and foams to increase flexibility and improve rubber production.
performance. Many Phthalate-based
plasticizers have been banned. Suppliers
Root Cause can use safer alternatives such as Root Cause
Acetyltributylcitrate (ATBC).
• The spray adhesive used to hold the • Supplier found that Naphthenic oil was used
garment in place during printing contained to produce the rubber.
DEHP, contaminating the finished garment. Root Cause
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Corrective Actions
Corrective Actions
• Production was stopped immediately.
• Tools were better handled, stored, and
sanitized to prevent contamination. • All current stock and shipments were
destroyed.
!!!!
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Curing Overview • Calibrate the oven regularly and keep a RESOURCE: Best Practices for
calibration record. (Note: The digital display
Many applications and finishes require curing, attached to the oven should be confirmed Screen-Printing Applications &
such as resin finishing for a 3-D effect, easy- to represent the actual temperature in the Printing
care, or screen printing. “Curing” is not limited oven.)
to drying materials or garments, but involves This slide deck provides examples and
chemical reactions that begin at specific • If a conveyor belt oven is used in factories pictures of best and worst practices at screen-
temperatures and take time to complete. It located in colder climates, understand the print facilities.
is important to understand and control the temperature gradient at different parts of
curing temperature and duration to fully react the oven, as this may result in inconsistent
chemicals. quality or concentrations of residual
chemicals in the finished garments.
Information about appropriate curing
conditions can be obtained from chemical • Start the curing time requirement when the
suppliers. Improper or incomplete curing may garment surface temperature reaches the
lead to both chemical product safety (RSL) required curing temperature, not simply
and performance issues (e.g., losing the 3-D/ when the garment is placed in the oven.
easycare effect after a few home launderings).
Temperature checking stickers are available,
but these only record the highest temperature
Best Practices on the garment surface. There are also digital
devices that can check the garment surface
Suppliers working with resins, screen prints, or
temperature at regular time intervals. These
other applications that require curing should:
devices can give a more detailed profile of
• Request technical data sheets (TDSs) from garment surface temperature differences,
chemical suppliers and follow the listed which allows for better control of the curing
curing condition instructions. process.
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1 Introduction ............................................................................................................................................ 6
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bluesign®
https://www.bluesign.com/index.html
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Meeting Customer Needs for as accredited to test products to one or more Information on Registered Substances
of these children’s product safety rules, as https://echa.europa.eu/information-on-
Chemical Data: A Guidance Document identified in the accreditation scope for each chemicals/registered-substances
for Suppliers laboratory.
Here you can search in the ECHA database for
Green Chemistry and Commerce information on registered substances.
Council (GC3) Global Regulation & Chemical The information in the database was provided
https://greenchemistryandcommerce.org/
resources/gc3-publications
Resources by companies in their registration dossiers.
You can find a variety of information on the
European Chemicals Agency substances which companies manufacture
Business-to-business communication of
http://echa.europa.eu or import: their hazardous properties, their
chemical data, such as chemical identity
and health and safety impacts, along supply classification and labeling and how to use the
The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) is an substances safely.
chains is critically important to product agency of the European Union that manages
manufacturers’ efforts to make informed the technical, scientific and administrative
decisions on the health and environmental aspects of the Registration, Evaluation, Consumer Product Safety
impacts of the products that they put on Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals Improvement Act
the market. (REACH) system. www.cpsc.gov/en/Regulations-Laws--
Standards/Statutes/The-Consumer-Product-
Forward-looking companies working to bring Information about the following can be found Safety-Improvement-Act/
safer products to market need the active on ECHA website:
engagement of suppliers to provide relevant
chemical information. This document provides REACH Legislation Information. REACH is The Consumer Product Safety Improvement
tools and examples in support of improved the Regulation for Registration, Evaluation, Act (CPSIA) of 2008 is a U.S. law imposing
supply chain communication between Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals. testing and documentation requirements,
suppliers and their customers, and in the It entered into force on 01 June 2007 to and sets new acceptable levels of several
development of more sustainable products. streamline and improve the former legislative substances. It imposes requirements on
framework on chemicals of the European manufacturers of apparel, shoes, personal
Union (EU). care products, accessories and jewelry,
Laboratory Resources home furnishings, bedding, toys, electronics
Substances of Very High Concern and video games, books, school supplies,
(SVHC). Substances that are included in educational materials and science kits.
List of CPSC-accepted Testing the Candidate List have been identified
Laboratories as Substances of Very High Concern.
https://www.cpsc.gov/cgi-bin/labsearch/ Substances on the Candidate List
may subsequently become subject to
To provide an up-to-date resource to find a
authorisation by decision of the European
reputable testing lab, the CPSC-accepted list
Commission. Substances are added to
of testing labs is a good place to start. This
the Candidate List by ECHA. The inclusion
is a list of entities that have been accredited
of a substance in the List may have legal
to assess conformity with children’s product
obligations on companies.
safety rules as required by the CPSIA. The
laboratories in this list have been accepted
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AFIRM Chemistry Toolkit | November 2018
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency California State Safer Consumer California Proposition 65 (Prop 65)
www.epa.gov Products Act http://oehha.ca.gov/prop65.html
Formerly Green Chemistry Initiative
The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency California Department of Toxic Proposition 65 is a California law intended
(EPA) is an agency of the United States federal Substance Control to eliminate exposures to those chemicals
government charged with protecting human www.dtsc.ca.gov/SCP/index.cfm identified as harmful to the environment and
health and the environment, by writing and the citizens of the State of California.
enforcing regulations based on laws passed California state government is developing an
by Congress. This agency administers laws alternative analysis framework to stimulate Proposition 65 regulates substances officially
such as the Clean Air Act (CAA), Clean Water the rapid acceleration of replacing harmful listed by California as causing cancer or
Act (CWA), Comprehensive Environmental chemicals and ingredients with safer birth defects or other reproductive harm
Response, Compensation and Liability alternatives in products sold in California. in two ways. The first regulatory arm of
Act (CERCLA or Superfund), Resource Work performed under this initiative will Proposition 65 prohibits businesses from
Conservation and Recovery Act (RCRA), and become regulation under California law. knowingly discharging listed substances
Toxic Substances Control Act (TSCA). into drinking water sources or onto land
California Department of Toxic where the substances can pass into drinking
Substance Control (DTSC) has released of water sources. The second regulatory arm
EPA Integrated Risk Information System an outline of the Draft Regulations for Safer of Proposition 65 prohibits businesses from
www.epa.gov/iris/index.html Products as a second step in identifying knowingly exposing individuals to listed
chemicals of concern and fostering the design substances without providing a clear and
The Integrated Risk Information System (IRIS) of safer products sold in California. reasonable warning.
is a human health assessment program that
evaluates quantitative and qualitative risk The outline proposes guidelines for scientific
information on effects that may result from and systematic prioritization of chemicals Washington State Children’s Safe
exposure to environmental contaminants. and products of concern, certification of Products Act
IRIS was initially developed for EPA staff in alternatives assessment and development of Washington Department of Ecology
response to a growing demand for consistent DTSC’s regulatory response. With this outline, https://ecology.wa.gov/Waste-Toxics/
information on substances for use in risk DTSC will continue its collaboration with all Reducing-toxic-chemicals/Childrens-Safe-
assessments, decision-making, and regulatory stakeholders, governmental agencies, and the Products-Act
activities. public to transform the outline into the Green
Chemistry Regulations for Safer Products. The As of August 2012, the Washington State Child
The information in IRIS is intended for those outline builds from the conceptual framework Safe Product Act (CPSA) requires apparel
without extensive training in toxicology, but completed in March of 2010. The next step is companies to report concentrations of 66
with some knowledge of health sciences. creating draft regulations based on the outline substances down to the component level of
and framework. The draft regulations will be children’s apparel and footwear products.
released in the very near future.
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AFIRM Chemistry Toolkit | November 2018
Chemical & Risk • BPD (Biocidal Products Directive) active Global Portal to Information on Chemical
substances listed in Annex I or IA of Substances
Assessment Resources Directive 98/8/EC or listed in the so-called www.echemportal.org/echemportal/page.
list of non-inclusions, action?pageID=0
Agency for Toxic Substances and
• PBT (Persistent, Bioaccumulative, and The eChemPortal provides free public access
Disease Registry
Toxic) or vPvB (very Persistent and very to information on the properties of chemicals:
www.atsdr.cdc.gov
Bioaccumulative),
• Physical chemical properties
The Agency for Toxic Substances and • CLP/GHS (Classification, Labelling and
Disease Registry (ATSDR), based in Atlanta, Packaging of substances and mixtures), • Ecotoxicity
Georgia, U.S.A., is a federal public health CLP implements the Globally harmonised
agency of the U.S. Department of Health and System (GHS), Regulation (EC) No • Environmental fate and behavior
Human Services. ATSDR serves the public 1272/2008,
by using the best science, taking responsive • Toxicity
public health actions, and providing health • Export and Import of Dangerous Chemicals
eChemPortal allows simultaneous searching
information to prevent harmful exposures and listed in Annex I of Regulation (EC) No
of reports and datasets by chemical name
diseases related to toxic substances. 689/2008,
and number, and by chemical property. Direct
• HPVCs (High Production Volume Chemicals) links to collections of chemical hazard and risk
European Chemical Substances and LPVCs (Low Production Volume information prepared for government chemical
Information System Chemicals), including EU Producers/ review programmes at national, regional,
https://echa.europa.eu/information-on- Importers lists and international levels can be obtained.
chemicals Classification results according to national/
• IUCLID Chemical Data Sheets, IUCLID regional hazard classification schemes
The European Chemical Substances Export Files, OECD-IUCLID Export Files, or to the Globally Harmonized System of
Information System (ESIS) is a publicly EUSES Export Files, Classification and Labelling of Chemicals
available IT system from the European (GHS) are provided when available.
Commission Institute for Health and Consumer • Priority Lists, Risk Assessment process
Protection Joint Research Center. ESIS and tracking system in relation to Council The eChemPortal is an effort of the
provides information on chemicals, related to: Regulation (EEC) Organisation for Economic Co-operation and
Development (OECD) in collaboration with the
• EINECS (European Inventory of Existing European Commission (EC), the European
Commercial Chemical Substances) O.J. C Chemicals Agency (ECHA), the United States,
146A, 15.6.1990, Canada, Japan, the International Council of
Chemical Associations (ICCA), the Business
• ELINCS (European List of Notified Chemical and Industry Advisory Committee (BIAC),
Substances) in support of Directive 92/32/ the World Health Organization’s (WHO)
EEC, the 7th amendment to Directive International Program on Chemical Safety
67/548/EEC, (IPCS), the United Nations Environment
Programme (UNEP) and environmental non-
• NLP (No-Longer Polymers), governmental organizations.
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AFIRM Chemistry Toolkit | November 2018
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AFIRM Chemistry Toolkit | November 2018
REACH. The European Union’s regulation handling or working with that substance in a Usage ban. For several chemical substances
concerning the Registration, Evaluation, safe manner, and includes information such or substance groups a usage ban may be
Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals as physical data, toxicity, health effects, first defined. For these substances or substance
aims to improve the protection of human aid, reactivity, storage, disposal, protective groups intentional use in manufacturing
health and the environment through the equipment, and spill handling procedures. of articles is prohibited. That means that
better and earlier identification of the intrinsic The SDS is made up of sixteen sections, and chemical products (e.g. colorants or textile
properties of chemical substances and each section includes specific information auxiliaries) used for manufacturing of
‘articles’. REACH regulation must be met for all using a standardized classification method. articles must not intentionally contain these
articles entering the EU. Additional information This standardized method has replaced the substances or substance groups. The aim
can be found at www.echa.europa.eu. “MSDS”. See Appendix I for examples and of a usage ban is to avoid release of harmful
explanation of an SDS substances to the environment and to avoid
occurrence in the manufactured article by
Reporting limit. The AFIRM RSL uses applying the precautionary principle.
reporting limits—arbitrary limits set by the Solvent. A substance that could dissolve
Laboratory Technical Advisory Committee— other substances, such as oils, or in which
based on the LOQ across laboratories. another substance is dissolved, forming a Volatile. A substance is considered volatile
Reporting limits are useful for AFIRM brands, solution. if it has a low boiling point at normal
enabling them to capture data below a atmospheric pressure. Volatile chemicals
regulated limit, but not collect data down (e.g. Formaldehyde) can cross-contaminate
to the detection limit and encounter false Substances of very high concern (SVHCs). products because they can more easily
positives or inaccurate data. SVHCs are identified in REACH, which calls vaporize and travel.
for the progressive substitution of the most
potentially dangerous chemicals (referred to as
Restricted substances list (RSL). Defines “SVHCs”) when suitable alternatives have been Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals
those chemicals that are restricted or banned identified. (ZDHC) Programme. ZDHC Foundation
from finished products. oversees the ZDHC Programme. Their aim
is to advance towards zero discharge of
Technical data sheet (TDS). Documentation hazardous chemicals in the textile, leather,
Safety data sheet (SDS). An SDS is provided provided by chemical manufacturers and footwear value chain to improve the
by the chemical manufacturer containing containing a detailed technical description of a environment and peoples’ well-being. The
safety data relating to the properties of a chemical substance, along with specific areas programme includes an industry-aligned
particular substance. It is an important and scope of use. MRSL, Wastewater Guidelines, and a Gateway
component of product stewardship and for the distribution of chemical and wastewater
workplace safety, intended to provide workers quality data.
and emergency personnel with procedures for
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