Sei sulla pagina 1di 108

Tuyo with capers, chorizo and egg quesadilla, waffles

Issue 3,2015
FREE

4 week
Cook Healthy
(but not quite guilt free!)
Low-cal dishes
Hearty salads
Good-for-you
“fatty” food

The Big
Breakfast
Issue
15+ must-try recipes
for breakfast, brunch

50
or any time of the day

PLUS:
Where to have
brunch on weekends

Eggs Rule!
Shakshouka
by Wildflour
Café + Bakery

Yes, we can eat them everyday


Starter

Happy Eating

Photo by IA N C A S TA Ñ A RE S | Makeup by M AITA A BA D


I
go by a simple mantra on how to eat right: “Eating healthy means eating happy.”
After all, what’s the point of depriving oneself of food to the point of depression!
OK, I admit it’s not quite foolproof and I still fall prey to overindulging in sweets
and junk food. But it’s something to keep in mind, especially since we tend to
become overly fearful of everything we put in our mouths. No need to be afraid of
“evil” carbs and sugar, just enjoy them in moderation.
One bit of good news that makes me more than happy is the vindication of old
culprits like eggs and fat. It turns out they aren’t as bad for us as we thought they
were! It’s a great excuse to share recipes that don’t shy away from the high calories,
yet still qualify as healthy, more or less. We have bestselling egg-centric dishes from
Wildflour Café + Bakery, fabulous salad recipes from Mitchie Sison, and no-fuss
low-calorie meals from Nancy Dizon-Edralin. We also checked out the latest diet
delivery services for those who’d rather not cook.
In this issue, breakfast also plays a big part—it’s one meal that definitely makes
us happy. However, breakfast, for the most part, is usually treated as an afterthought,
hastily prepared during the morning rush. But here at FOOD, we always like to
give breakfast its due, not because we want you to wake up in the wee hours and
slave over the stove. Rather, we just love all of its classic components—eggs, bacon, Sign up for our FOOD
sausages, pancakes, garlic rice, tuyo—and wish we could enjoy them all day long! Tastings Cooking Class
Check out our great-tasting recipes that celebrate breakfast (and brunch) in all this September!
its savory goodness. Pixie Sevilla gives us a lesson on waffle-making plus she throws
Learn new and delicious ways
in some fun waffle variations. Aileen Anastacio of Marmalade Kitchen prepares a
sensational brunch of comfort food favorites. Portia Baluyut suggests easy and quick to cook healthy. Check out
morning recipes. Plus, in honor of our breakfast drink of choice, we dig deep into FOOD Magazine on Facebook
the history of Philippine coffee. for more details.
Whether it’s breakfast or any meal of the day, the most important thing is that
what we eat makes us happy (and not in an “I ate too much” kind of way). Let’s be
happy to derive pleasure from what we eat; happy to share a meal with our loved Like us on facebook.com/FOODMagazine
ones; and happy and thankful to be in good health.
Follow us on Instagram: @FOODMagazine

Editor-In-Chief

contributors
Tin Samson Miko Aspiras
felt like is one of the
“coming home” industry’s most
to produce well-regarded
this issue’s young pastry
Entertaining chefs. He has
brunch feature. won dozens of
From being awards both
the former here and abroad
associate editor for his creative, innovative desserts.
of FOOD Magazine, Tin Samson Together with Chef Kristine Lotilla,
now contributes to FOOD and he owns and runs one of the only
other magazines, and also works Paul Del Rosario shoots for several craft cookie shops in the Philippines,
in her family’s bakeshop. Tin loves magazines like Working Mom Scout’s Honor, and the Japanese-
everything Disney, Harry Potter, and and Metro Home. In this issue, he French bistro Le Petit Soufflé and
theater, and hopes to travel the whole composed the beautiful food shots in shares a few of its special dessert
world someday, find her prince, and Cook it 5 Ways and Home Basics. recipes in Home Basics.
have twin baby girls! 

2 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


F o o d Lo v e s
For an easy, homemade
healthy snack, I love
Photography by OCS ALVAREZ this hummus recipe
Styling by BEL ALVAREZ that you can make
ahead and reach for
when hunger pangs hit.

sensible
Nancy Dizon-
Edralin, recipe
developer and food
stylist

snacks
Red Lentil
Hummus
Serves 2

1 cup red lentils,


My snack of choice are hard boiled eggs rinsed
We don’t always eat drizzled with sriracha for flavor. Or, 1 1/2 cups water
healthy—who does? sometimes, nori. 1/2 teaspoon
But we’d love to share - Pia Puno, photographer kosher salt
2 cloves garlic
these smart selections The easiest snack is a banana, which 3 tablespoons
that will tide you over is rich in potassium and makes a great  WDKLQLSDVWHb
canvas for a lot of flavors. Spread it with 1 teaspoon
when hunger pangs hit peanut butter, cookie butter or Nutella. Spanish paprika
Grill it and drizzle with honey. Or dip in 2 tablespoons
a dark chocolate ganache, sprinkle with lemon juice
nuts then freeze. 3 tablespoons extra
- Cecille Esperanza, nutritionist virgin olive oil
and recipe tester NRVKHUVDOWDQGbJURXQG
black pepper,
For a hefty little snack, I go for to taste
overnight oats. Or a handful of mixed
nuts—they fill you up fast. 1. Place lentils, water
- Judy Arias, editorial assistant DQGVDOWLQDSDQb%RLO
RYHUPHGLXPKHDWb
2. Cook uncovered,
stirring occasionally,
until lentils are soft,
approximately 15
WRPLQXWHVb$GG
more water if needed.
Drain the lentils in a
ˉQHPHVKVLHYH6HW
DVLGHDQGOHWFRRObb
3. In a food processor,
blend garlic, lentils,
tahini, paprika and
lemon juice, scraping
down the sides of the
bowl. Continue to
purée, adding the olive
RLO$GMXVWVHDVRQLQJ
4. Transfer hummus
to a serving bowl.
Garnish with olive oil
DQGSDSULNDb6HUYH
with pita bread
RUSLWDFKLSVb

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 3


7HUKL:HS
)YLHRMHZ[
7\KKPUN
Its goi
a Love
Pan de Sal
Breakfast Pudding
Makes 6 to 8 individual ramekins
Ingredients
10 pieces regular sized day-old pan de sal,
sliced in half
¾ cup Dari Creme Buttermilk, reserve ½ cup for the pudding mix
4 eggs
½ cup sugar, plus 2 tablespoons for dusting
2 cups Magnolia PureFresh Natural Cow’s Milk, heated just until
simmering
START YOUR
½ cup grated Magnolia Cheddar Cheese
Extra Dari Creme Buttermilk for brushing the ramekin cups
MORNINGS WITH A
Caramel Sauce: SUMPTUOUS TOUCH
¼ cup Dari Creme Buttermilk
1/3 cup sugar OF
1 cup Magnolia All-Purpose Cream

Method:
UÊ Preheat oven to 375°F. Brush Dari Creme on bottom and sides of 6 to
8 ramekin cups.
UÊ Use ¼ cup Dari Creme to spread on each slice of pan de sal. Toast
until golden. When cool, slice into cubes and distribute bread cubes
evenly in ramekin cups. ;PUHWH
UÊ In a bowl, whisk eggs and ½ cup sugar until frothy. Add melted 6TLSL[[L
Dari Creme to the heated milk and slowly pour into egg mixture while 7PaaH
continuing to whisk. Pour milk-egg mixture evenly over bread cubes.
Sprinkle grated cheese and remaining 2 tablespoons sugar on top
of each ramekin. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes or until top is golden and
pudding puffs up.
UÊ While pudding is baking, make the caramel sauce. In a small
saucepan, melt Dari Creme and sugar over low heat until sugar
caramelizes. Pour in cream and let simmer until the hardened
caramel melts completely. Serve with the warm pudding.

Tinapa Omelette Pizza


Makes 1 9-inch pizza or 3-4-inch pizzas
Ingredients
6 tablespoons Dari Creme Classic, divided into 2
tablespoons each
2 big red tomatoes, diced
1 medium white onion, diced
1 cup, shredded tinapa (bangus or any smoked fish)
6 eggs
3 tablespoons Magnolia PureFresh Natural Cow’s Milk
Ground pepper, to taste
3 salted eggs, sliced into squares
Method:
UÊ In a 9-inch non-stick pan, heat 2 tablespoons Dari Creme and
sauté tomatoes and onion until liquid evaporates, add shredded
tinapa and sauté for a few minutes. Transfer to a bowl.
UÊ Whisk eggs, milk and 2 tablespoons Dari Creme until frothy.
UÊ Using the same pan, heat remaining 2 tablespoons Dari Creme.
Pour egg mixture evenly over pan. With a spatula or wooden
spoon, push edges of uncooked eggs to the center several
times, until egg mixture is almost cooked. Top with sautéed
tinapa. Scatter salted egg slices. Cover for a few minutes to let
the steam fully cook the eggs. Uncover and slide to a serving BREAKFAST IS THE DAY’S MOS
plate. Alternatively, you may use a small 4-inch non-stick pan to Wake up to a great start with these e
make personal size omelette pizzas. with a fun twist. Say goodbye to blan
up your taste buds with Dari Crem
Creative Direction by SHERWIN LLAMES
Text by KRISTEL DACUMOSÊUÊ*…œÌœ}À>«…ÞÊLÞÊPAOLO VALENZUELAÊUÊ,iVˆ«iÊ iÛiœ«“i˜ÌÊ>˜`Êœœ`Ê
Styling by TINA DIAZÊUÊ*Àœ«Ê-Ìޏˆ˜}ÊLÞÊATHENA FREGILLANA
ing to be Tuna and
Corn Muffin
Makes 18 muffins
Ingredients

ely Day
3/4 cup Dari Creme Classic, reserve 1/4 cup and melt 1/2 cup
for the batter
1 large white onion, chopped
1 cup canned tuna flakes, drained
1 can whole corn kernels
1 medium red bell pepper, diced
1 400-gram pack Magnolia Pancake & Waffle Mix
1 tablespoon sugar
;\UHHUK 2 eggs, lightly beaten
*VYU4\MÄUZ ½ cup Magnolia PureFresh Natural Cow’s Milk
Method:
UÊ Preheat oven to 375°F. Brush holes and surface of muffin pan
with reserved 2 tablespoons Dari Creme. Set aside.
UÊ In a large pan, sauté onions in remaining 2 tablespoons of Dari
Creme until transparent. Add tuna flakes and cook until excess
liquid evaporates. Fold in corn and bell pepper in the last minute
of cooking. Transfer to a bowl and let it cool.
UÊ Combine pancake & waffle mix and sugar in a large bowl. Make
a well in the center and add ½ cup melted Dari Creme, eggs
and milk. Stir using a wire whisk or wooden spoon just until dry
ingredients are moistened; batter should still be lumpy. Fold in
sautéed tuna mixture.
UÊ Spoon batter into muffin pans almost to the brim. Bake for 10
to 12 minutes until top rises and feels dry to the touch. Remove
from the oven and cool on a wire rack. Serve warm.

Honey-Dari Creme
Glazed Chicken Fingers
Makes 6 servings
Ingredients
½ kilo chicken breast fillet, sliced 1 cup water
into thick strips vegetable oil for deep-frying
1 teaspoon paprika
½ teaspoon garlic powder Honey-Dari Creme Glaze:
½ teaspoon onion powder 3/4 cup honey
1 teaspoon salt ¼ cup Dari Creme Classic
½ teaspoon ground black pepper ½ teaspoon paprika
1 cup Magnoila All Purpose Flour Salt and pepper to taste
1 cup cassava flour seasoned with Pinch chilli flakes, optional
1 teaspoon salt

Method:
UÊ Place chicken strips in a bowl. Combine paprika, garlic powder,
onion powder, salt and pepper and use to season chicken.
Dredge each piece in flour. Set aside.
UÊ In a non-stick pan, heat oil over medium fire. Deep-fry chicken
/VUL`+HYP*YLTL strips a few pieces at a time until golden. Drain on paper towels.
.SHaLK*OPJRLU UÊ Dissolve seasoned cassava flour in water. Coat cooked chicken
-PUNLYZ strip in cassava mixture and fry a second time until crisp. Repeat
with the rest of the chicken strips.
UÊ To make the glaze, place honey in a medium saucepan and let
simmer until slightly reduced, about 5 minutes. Turn off heat and
whisk in Dari Creme. Season with paprika, salt, pepper and chilli
flakes, if desired. Brush over chicken fingers and serve the rest
of the sauce on the side.

ST IMPORTANT MEAL, SO MAKE IT COUNT


easy-to-cook meals. A traditional breakfast menu
nd, boring cereals and simple toasts, and perk
me inspired dishes that reflect love on a plate Available in supermarkets and groceries nationwide. Dari Creme
comes in Classic & Buttermilk variants
Issue 3 2015

The
Breakfast
Issue

30
We Love Eggs
They simply make
breakfast better
By Anne Marie Ozaeta

38
In Search
of Philippine Coffee
We used to be one of
the world’s biggest
coffee producers. So
what happened?
By Troy Barrios
MENU
GUIDE
Vol. 1, Issue 3

Regulars
2 Starter
3 FOOD Loves
11 Tastings Entertaining
102 Events
59 The Beauty of Brunch
Columns Easy, elegant and
leisurely—is there a better
21 Sweet Stuff way to start your day?
A luxurious apple tart By Tin Samson
By Joey E. Prats
Home Basics
22 Farm Tales
The grain called adlai 78 Light and Right
By Sandra F. Celi Fill up with these hefty salads
By Mitchie Sison
23 Key Ingredient
Cooking with kale 81 Simply Desserts
By Jill F. Sandique French desserts with
a Japanese touch
24 Wellness By Miko Aspiras
The myth of the bad egg
By Gerry H. Tan 84 Cooking Class
Make the best waffles
Dining Out By Pixie Rodrigo Sevilla

25 Weekend Brunch 88 30 Minutes or Less


Hyatt Café, Il Ponticello, Breakfast dishes to beat
Kabila, Lung Hin, Vask the morning rush
By Portia Baluyut
Features
91 D.I.Y.
47 Cooking à la Madrid Make your own bottled fish
Fusiòn Manila By Aby Nachura
Choice recipes from the year’s
biggest culinary event Food Tour
50 The Marvelous Macapunô 94Taal Revitalized
This tribute to the native It’s time to revisit this
ingredient won the DGF dynamic heritage town
Food Writing Award 2015 By Michaela Fenix
By Jenny Orillos
108 Last Bite
52 Everyday Dinners Yana Gilbuena in Manila
The perfect meals: low in By Troy Barrios
calories, rich in flavor
By Nancy Dizon-Edralin

59 Cook It 5 Ways
Celebrating the good fats
By Tina Concepcion Diaz
contents Issue 3, 2015

RECIPE BOX
Breakfast 87 Protein overload Mains 67Pasta with browned
87 Bacon, egg and waffles 58 Baked fish tacos with butter and sage
tomato croissants 76 Smoked ham and mango salsa 80 Stuffed eggplant with
84 Basic waffles cheese savory muffins 58 Beef tenderloin steaks mushrooms
93 Bottled dried herring 36 Shakshouka with red wine sauce
with capers in corn 36 Wildflour breakfast 48 Dinuguan Desserts
oil with sausage 48 Dinuguan risotto 47 Barako coffee jelly
91 Bottled salmon belly caldo 21 French apple tart
with thyme and lemon Starters 22 Endulsao Chavacano 67 Lemon olive oil cake
in olive oil 79 5-spice prawn salad 49 Huevos rotos 81 Matcha and dark
92 Bottled tawilis with with avocado-mango 58 Prawns in red curry chocolate millefeuille
stuffed olives toss sauce 80 Peaches n’ creme
76 Breakfast banh mi 78 Chicken tandoori 103 Sinaing na tulingan Japanese pancake
85 Breakfast cereal kalabasa quinoa salad 58 Spicy chicken lettuce soufflé
waffles 80 Grilled kesong puti wraps 103 Pinindot
67 Breakfast granola and basil pizza topped 103 Taal adobo sa dilaw 79 Strawberry and yuzu
56 Breakfast steak and with melon salad 103Taal taghilaw lime pavlova
eggs 90 Potato and squash 48 Tuna roe and sperm
76 Chocolate pancakes crisps sac risotto, pata Drinks
with bananas and 3 Red lentil hummus Negros 47 Spiced coffee
caramel sauce 49 Shoestring potatoes 82 Sweet sunrise
76 Chorizo and egg 103 Sopas a la pobre Sides
quesadilla 67 Spring roll salad with 76Baked ziti with
36 Chorizo fundido peanut sauce bangers and mushrooms
86 Nola waffles 36 Wildflour salad 67 Marble potato
casserole
Editor-in-Chief Anne Marie Ozaeta Head, ABS-CBN Publishing, Inc. Ernesto L. Lopez
Managing Director Mark Yambot
Content and Editorial Director Christina N. Lopez
Managing Editor Regina Troy Barrios
Associate Publishers Abigail Pel
Finance Manager Rowena D. Dote
Art Director Noel Avendaño Finance Supervisor Sheryl A. Baria
API Ad Sales Head Phillip Cu-Unjieng, Monica
Associate Editor Ginny Mata Herrera, Racquel Valeriano Celi
Account Executives Dave Dera, Euniz Sunga, Jane Ramirez,
Copy Editor Romelda C. Ascutia Iaree Anico, Jenny Dayao, Melanie Magtira, Vanessa
Pinlac, Michelle Sy-Yap, Roselyn Bisquera
Nutritionist & Recipe Tester Cecilia R. Esperanza, rnd Digital Sales Manager Rex Anthony Fontanoza
Advertising Traffic Assistant Rizza Miralles

Editorial Assistant Judy Ann Arias


Teresita L. Villareal
Head, Marketing - Narrowcast
Marketing Officer Krizzia Santos
Interns Angelo Racelis, Coleen Elise Yu Marketing Artists Pat Buenaobra, Christian Louis Manuel
Events Manager Love Andaya
Editorial Operations Officer Zeny Orfano-Gonzales
Ruby Gonzalez
Advertorial and Special Executions Group Head
Columnists Senior Art Director Sherwin Llames
Sandra F. Celi, Joey E. Prats, Art Directors Raff Colmenar, Rainier Montevirgen
Jill F. Sandique, Gerry H. Tan Copy Editor Michelle Katigbak Alejandro
Print Producer Athena Fregillana
Editorial Assistant Arlyn Rosales
Photographers
Ocs Alvarez, Ian Castañares, Paul Del Rosario,
Special Projects, Head Kristine Hernandez
Cheryl Borsoto Nasol, Pia Puno, Paulo Valenzuela
Vendor Manager Joy T. Pedraza
Key Account Executives Sharleen Soon
Writers Logistics and Provincial Account Supervisor Fernando Tioyao
Angeli De Rivera, Michaela Fenix, Jenny Orillos, Tin Samson Account Executive GMA Jeanette Andaya
Sales/Admin. Assistant Lizzel T. Garcia
Stylists
Bel Alvarez, Angelique Castro, Nancy Dizon-Edralin, Pre-press Production Manager Andy Lizardo
Pixie Rodrigo Sevilla, Tina Concepcion Diaz Pre-press Sales Manager Teresita Bayani
Digital Imaging Supervisor Gil Cargason Jr.
Digital Artists Seb Cachola, Alex Dulay
Recipe Developers
Printing Coordinator Bert Acala
Aileen Anastacio, Miko Aspiras, Portia Baluyut,
Head, General Services Arnel C. Bon
Tina Concepcion Diaz, Nancy Dizon-Edralin, Aby
Nachura, Pixie Rodrigo Sevilla, Mitchie Sison

Head, Narrowcast and DTT Channels Antonio S. Ventosa


Myca G. Ramos
Senior Finance Officer - Narrowcast
Ad Sales Cluster Head Jenny Silverio

ABS-CBN Publishing, Inc. is a member of ABS-CBN Cable Channels


and Print Media Group.

8/F ELJ Communications Center, Mother Ignacia Avenue


cor. Eugenio Lopez Jr. Avenue, Quezon City 1103, Philippines
Editorial: Tel. No. 415-2272 local 4645; Fax No. 415-1215
or email food@abs-cbn.com
Advertising: Tel. Nos. 415-2272 local 4655; 924-4101 to 02 local 4668 to 74

Copyright August 2015 ABS-CBN Publishing, Inc.


All rights reserved. All submissions become the property of FOOD Magazine.
Printed in the Philippines. No part of this magazine may be used or reproduced in any
SHAKSHOUKA
manner whatsoever without the written permission of ABS-CBN Publishing, Inc.
Recipe by WILDFLOUR CAFÉ + BAKERY
Styling by BEL ALVAREZ For orders and subscription inquiries, please call
Photography by OCS ALVAREZ 415-2810 or 415-2272 local 4826, and look for Lizzel
trends | finds | news | media | travel

Healthy Meals to Go
Eating right has never been more convenient
By GINNY MATA
Photography by OCS ALVAREZ | Styling by BEL ALVAREZ

T
here’s never been a better market bland and unsatisfactory, to people who want to lose weight,
time to eat healthy. While they formulated their own diet plans, but also to those who have ailments
diet delivery services have and made nutritious, delicious and which require special diets (e.g.
been around for some time, satisfying meals for themselves. Out of diabetes, cancer, kidney problems, etc.).
nowadays there are dozens that came the entrepreneurial desire Thus, many of these services are fully
more to choose from that fit any to share their expertise with others. personalized and customizable. All these
dietary requirement, budget and Collaborating with chefs, dietitians packages include at least three meals per
location. and nutritionists, they have made day, unless stated otherwise.
What these healthy meal delivery eating healthy much more interesting
services have in common is that their and convenient for people with busy
founders all succeeded in losing schedules who may not have the time
weight by eating more healthfully. to cook for themselves.
Finding existing diet food in the These services don’t only cater

BETTER HEALTH PH
offers all-natural, gluten-
free, grain-free, dairy-free,
sugar-free, salt-free meals
in recyclable packaging,
delivered in a beautifully
designed “lunch box” for
easier transport. Packages
range from 1,200 to 2,000
calories per day, and come
in 3-day, 5-day, 10-day and
20-day sets, starting at P650
per day. betterhealthph.com

Chicken Tikka Salad

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 11


TASTINGS | trends

Grilled mahi-mahi fillet


with tropical fruit salsa

Penne pasta a la
cubana

PALEO MANIL A exclusively


follows the Paleo Diet. All meals
are gluten-free, dairy-free, grain-
free, salt-free and sugar-free, and DIET DIVA PH was
totally without GMO ingredients, awarded “The Most
food additives, preservatives and Outstanding Healthy Diet
chemicals. Depending on clients’ Services Provider for 2014”
level of commitment, packages are by National Customers’
weekly, monthly or VIP long-term at Choice, Philippines’ Best
P3,700/week and P14,800/month. World Quality Class Awards
paleomanila.com and National Product Quality
Excellence Awards. Packages
start at P1,900 for 5 days
at 1,200 calories/day.
dietdiva.ph

THE SEXY CHEF


is the longest running
diet delivery service
in Metro Manila, going
strong since 2004.
FITNESS GOURMET It offers South Beach
PH offers the Low Calorie Diet, Pounds Away (1,200
Plan (300 calories/day) to 1,400 calories per day),
at P1,800 for 5 days; the Eat Clean Detox, Tummy
HCG Diet Plan (taken with Trimmer, Tummy Trimmer
HCG drops) to achieve 'HWR[DQG%ORRG3URˉOH
weight loss of 40 pounds Based Meals. Programs
in 40 days at P2,800 for 7 cost P975 to P1,000/
days; and the High Protein day for breakfast, lunch,
meal plan for athletes dinner, and from P1,500
at P3,000 for 5 days. to P2,150 for 5-day lunch
Facebook.com/ and dinner packages.
FitnessGourmetPh thesexychef.com.ph

Granola and mixed 2YHQIULHGFKLFNHQˉQJHUV


berries parfait with yam home fries

12 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


Rolled oats and
fruit parfait

Fish cake patty


and red rice

MDF DIET TO GO
was started by dietitian
Michelle Fabella and her
husband Chef Dean Noel
Fabella in 2009. They
don’t believe in doing
DȟRQHVL]HˉWVDOOȠGLHW
Michelle personally meets
with all her clients to do
nutrition assessment and
weekly monitoring of their LUNCHBOX DIET provides
weight progress. Meals portion-controlled healthy,
start at P1,200 per day. balanced meals that range from
Facebook.com/pages/ 1,200 to 2,000 calories per
DIET-to-GO day, starting at P1,700/week.
Their executive chef likes using
ingredients that are fresh and
in season, and makes sure to
limit the amount of salt, sugar,
and fat content in their meals.
DIET BUDDY PH is Facebook.com/lunchboxdietph
one of the most affordable
diet delivery services
here. They specialize in
favorite Filipino dishes like
homemade chicken tocino,
beef tapa and lean pork Herbed chicken with
hamonado, but they also sweet potato mash and
green beans
try to avoid repeating their
meals within the month
so that their ‘diet buddies’
won’t get tired of them.
Their packages range from
P1,700 (1,200 calories/
day) to P1,900 (2,000
calories/day) for 5 days.
Facebook.com/
DietBuddyPhilippines

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 13


TASTING | finds

A Delivery Service for Your Party


From the Romulo Food group comes the newest food service
brand, The Party Kitchen, which specializes in serving all-time
favorite Filipino party foods such as Pancit Malabon, BBQ and
Lumpiang Shanghai, as well as other sumptuous dishes like
Lechon Roll, Chap Chae Noodles and Korean Chicken Wings that
are sure to be the perfect addition to any party’s buffet table.
:KHWKHULWȠVDWKRPHIRUWKHRIˉFHRUDQ\FHOHEUDWLRQ7KH3DUW\
Kitchen delivers restaurant quality food right to your doorstep.
Call (02) 519-1111 or visit www.thepartykitchen.ph

(Clockwise from top) Wingstop’s


delectable spread; Chicken
Tenders; Classic Buffalo Chicken (Clockwise
Wings from top)
Party
Kitchen’s
Flying With Flavor, Crispy Pata;
Baby Back
The Wingstop Experience A fast-casual Ribs; Fish
Fillet with
American restaurant specializing in Texas-sized, buffalo-style tartar sauce
ZLQJV:LQJVWRSKDVSHUIHFWHGQLQHUHFLSHVZLWKˊDYRUVWKDW
have earned them rave reviews, and have topped the “best of”
reader polls. Wingstop has been in the Philippines for about a
year, with seven stores currently open.
www.wingstop.com.ph.

A Chilean Favorite A Modern French Wine


Recognized as one of the Produced from four Estates in the Languedoc region of
leading brands in Chilean France, Arrogant Frog wines are created to be everyday
wines worldwide, Concha luxuries, a philosophy espoused by the company. Winemaker
Y Toro garnered the “Best Jean-Claude Mas says, “We operate at the scale of a New
Drinks Company of the Year” World winery with the same control as a small Old World
award in the international chateau.” Now available in Manila, the wines range from
category at this year’s London the friendly Tutti Frutti in blanc or rouge, to the more high
Wine Fair. Its largest premium end Elegant Frog. Available at Forth & Tay or for a list of
label is Casillero del Diablo, branches, visit forthtay.com
rated as one of the best value
wine brands in the world and
available in 135 countries.
In the Philippines, Casillero
del Diablo Reserva variants
include Merlot, Chardonnay,
Shiraz Tinto, Pinot Noir Tinto,
Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon
Blanc, Viognier, Sparkling Brut
Reserva and an enjoyable
Carmenere red with intense
notes of berries and forest
fruit and delicate hints of
coffee and toast. Available
in restaurants, bars and select
supermarkets nationwide. Visit
www.casillerodeldiablo.com

14 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


Not Your Ordinary A Luxurious Line of
Blast Freezer Olive Oils
The Freddy Hot + Cold by Irinox is so You have never tasted olive
much more than just a blast freezer. oil like Olivier&Co’s Olive Oil
Designed for the home, this high-tech Collection 2015. Rare, gourmet
appliance blast-chills hot food to keep and robust, these ten olive
it safe and to lengthen its shelf life. oils allow you to create dishes
It can blast-freeze, defrost (without of deeper eloquence. There
water seeping out), cook food at low is Agrolaguna, a rare oil from
temperature, and even proof dough. Croatia, pressed with Leccino
Call Magic-Aire Industries at (02) 733- and Picholine olives, with
076, or visit www.magic-aire.com and a smooth intense taste and
www.irinoxhome.com QXWW\ˊDYRUWKDWFRPSOHPHQWV
meat, cheese, vegetables
and dessert. Moulin La
Cravenco from Provence is
exceptionally creamy with a
hint of sweetness, suitable for
seafood and chicken. Monva, a
Spanish gem with robust tart
notes, adds zing to ice cream.
Made in small batches, they
bring nuance to your dishes.
Branches at 2/F Central Square,
Bonifacio High Street Central,
BGC and Greenbelt 5, Makati
City
TASTINGS | news

MEGA Heirloom Rice, Our


GLOBAL National Treasure
TURNS 40 Last May, the International Rice
Mega Global Corporation debuted Research Institute (IRRI) turned over
its latest line of world-class products two murals by National Artist Vicente
during its 40th anniversary celebration Manansala to the Museum, along
held at EDSA Shangri-La. A captivating with a sample of Philippine heirloom
visual presentation showcased the rice from the Cordilleras. Both are
canned products and ready-to-eat considered national treasures. Heirloom
viands to be released this year: Mega rice consists of traditional rice varieties
Premium Shrimp Paste, Oh My Ulam! handed down through generations
Regional Specials, Mega Creations of a clan or village. They have high
Bottled Sardines and Mega Tuna. With nutritional properties and are in limited
its innovations in packaging and food supply due to longer growing periods.
technology, Mega Global plans to tap “We want to empower our farmers,
markets outside the country to provide and to keep our heirloom rice from
its high-quality, value-for-money food disappearing. It’s about conserving our
products. “We’ll continue striving to be heritage, and encouraging ecological
the best brand locally and globally,” said diversity,” said Ana Habiling of
CEO and president William Tiu Lim. IRRI’s Heirloom Rice Project, a joint
initiative of IRRI and the Department
of Agriculture. They are currently
working with entrepreneurs to find
demand matches for these rice varieties
in the wider market. Philippine
heirloom rice varieties were also
featured in Madrid Fusión Manila last
April. Chefs Robby Goco, Amy Besa,
Chele Gonzalez, Jessie Sincioco and Margarita Forés served a dinner that evening
using the rice varieties from Benguet, Mountain Province, Kalinga and Ifugao.
The Manansala murals are on permanent display at the National Museum. For more
information about the Heirloom Rice Project, visit www.heirloomrice.com

Moms Swap Recipes with Lee Kum Kee


There’s no better source than moms (Clockwise from
top left) Busy
for recipes that are tried and tested. moms, from left,
At a recent Recipe Swap hosted by Eliza Santiago,
Michelle Lim,
Lee Kum Kee, TV personality Suzi Suzi Abrera
Entrata-Abrera shared her Thai and Michelle
Omelette recipe; aspiring yogini Aventajado;
Tofu Saute;
Michelle Aventajado demonstrated Thai Omelette;
her Grilled Salmon recipe; newbie Grilled Salmon;
homeschooler Michelle Lim shared Zenmeyang
Shucai
her Tofu Sauté and makeup artist Eliza
Santiago prepared Zenmeyang Shucai
(Sauteéd Asparagus), all using Lee
Kum Kee Panda Oyster Sauce. Karen
Mejia, owner of Terrace 45 Restaurant,
also shared tips and tricks to make
meal preparation even more fun and
hassle-free.
Lee Kum Kee is known as the
world’s first oyster sauce brand, with a reputable producer with over 200 are available at major supermarkets
its history going back as far as 1888. Asian sauces and condiments available nationwide. Visit philippines.lkk.com/
Since then, the brand has emerged as worldwide. Lee Kum Kee products en/Kitchen

16 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


The Peninsula Goes Pink
for Breast Cancer Awareness Month
This October, guests at The Peninsula Manila get to enjoy pink-themed treats and
participate in a charitable art auction in support of the global fight against breast
cancer. Enjoy The Art of Pink Peninsula Afternoon Tea, featuring rose-tinted
sweet and savory treats, and premium teas blended by The Pen’s tea masters, at
The Lobby. Try the pink pastries at The Peninsula Boutique, or order a special
“Belle Epoque” pink dessert—an airy confection of ivory chocolate, strawberry,
mascarpone and Madagascar vanilla—at any of the restaurants. Partake of pink-
tinted cocktails and mocktails at all the restaurants. Avail of these pink treats
together with a Peninsula in Pink ribbon pin and a donation will be made to
the Philippine Foundation for Breast Care, Inc. Call (02) 887-2888 for more
information

North vs. South Italy:


A Culinary Showdown at Sofitel
Against the dramatic
backdrop of Sunset Bay,
Sofitel Philippine Plaza
Manila celebrated the
flavors of northern and
southern Italy with a
culinary showdown
between executive chef
THE FIRST NOBU HOTEL IN Denis Vecchiato and
visiting chef Toni Rossetti,
ASIA OFFICIALLY OPENS chef-owner of Noti
Restaurant in Singapore.
While Nobu Hotel at City Hollywood producer Meir Chef Denis, representing
of Dreams Manila has Teper, plus Melco Crown northern Italy, and
already been hosting guests Entertainment’s Lawrence Venice in particular, made his signature Risotto Asparagus
for several months now, it Ho and James Packer. with Scallops, Penne Sautéed with Mixed Seafood, and Pizza
was only last May that this Together, they shared with Bresaula Brie and Rocket Salad. Chef Toni, who hails
“celebrity-inspired, fun- their enthusiasm for the from the Puglia region in southern Italy, whipped up a Mixed
luxury” hotel was officially Philippines’ development Mushroom Risotto, Orechiette with Sausage, and Pizza al
launched. In attendance were into a luxury leisure Metro. The winner, by popular vote, was Chef Denis, but Chef
Nobu Hospitality founding destination, with Nobu Toni showed good sportsmanship and even tried the balut.
partners led by Academy Hotel’s mix of sophistication, Both chefs agreed that good food tastes best in good company,
Award-winning actor bespoke hospitality and with light hearts and an element of fun. In the end, everything
Robert De Niro, Japanese outstanding Nobu-inspired was simply delizioso. CCP Complex, Roxas Boulevard, Pasay
chef Nobu Matsuhisa and cuisine leading the way. City, (02) 551-5555
TASTINGS | news

WAVES OF A Thai Food Festival at The Pen


FLAVOR, Spices Restaurant at The Peninsula
Manila transformed itself into a little
Thai, Chicken and Beef Satay, Som
Tam (papaya salad), Grilled Pork and

WITH slice of Thailand when it welcomed


Chamnan Thepchana, chef of Thai
Chicken rubbed with Thai spices, and
Gaeng Massam Nua (massaman curry

PACIFIC BAY Cuisine at The Peninsula Bangkok,


for a week-long “Tastefully Thai” food
with beef tenderloin and potatoes).
A cultural show and fruit carvings

SEAFOOD festival that highlighted the culinary


wonders of the Land of Smiles. The
menu featured such favorites as Phad
rounded off the evening’s entertainment.
Ayala corner Makati Avenues,
Makati City, (02) 887-2888
Ten notable chefs cooked up a feast
using the most delectable seafood
available for “Waves of Flavor,” an event
made possible by Pacific Bay.
Among the chefs involved were
Red Kitchen & Bar’s Michael Yambao
with his Spider Po-Boy and Scallops
Ceviche Salad; Tristan Encarnacion
of the Center of Culinary Arts’ Seared
Scallops, Seabass, Bacalao and Organic
Greens together with Chilled Pacific
Bay Tuna; Quenee Vilar of Your Local’s
special treat of Bacalao Ceviche Salad
with Coconut Broth; Bait’s Chef Joseph
Margate with his Softshell Chili Crab
Rolls; Le Jardin’s Jonas Ng’s Seared
Scallops with Lardon, Leek Fondue;
and a big pan of Arroz Abanda by Keith
Fresnido and Ivan Saiz from Vask and
Arrozeria.
A retail brand of Mida Food,
Pacific Bay provides a wide variety
of high quality seafood products to
major supermarkets across the country,
all portioned and packaged for the
convenience of the cook. Pacific Bay
is steadfast in their commitment to
bringing the best quality and freshest A Whimsical Red Tea from TWG
seafood from all over the world, to every A whimsical addition to the Haute
household. Couture Tea Collection is TWG’s
newest Red Balloon Tea. Bright
blueberries lend their tangy sweetness
to this airy, theine-free red tea which
sparkles with overtones of crunchy
nashi fruit. Red tea, or rooibos, is
produced from a bush known as the
Aspalathus linearis in South Africa,
and contains high levels of antioxidants,
vitamin C, mineral salts and protein,
making it ideal for adults and children
alike. It’s a delightful ode to youth and
innocence, and will please tea lovers of
all ages, encased in a luxurious gold-
embossed gift box.
TWG Tea is one of the finest luxury
tea companies in the world, and the
Red Balloon Tea is the perfect drink
to while away cozy evenings. Jump in
with the Red Balloon Tea on its maiden
expedition and discover new heights of Available at all TWG Tea Salon and
brilliance and artisry with TWG Tea! Boutique outlets. Visit twgtea.com

18 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


TASTINGS | media

books

The Third Plate Judy Ann’s Kitchen By Buttercream Flowers Simply Delicious: 50
By Dan Barber Judy Ann Santos-Agoncillo By Valeri Valeriano and Years of Good Food
Top New York chef Dan Her love for food brought Christina Ong from Maya
Barber chronicles his trips her to publish her very own Learn essential techniques In celebration of having been
to farming communities cookbook. Teleserye queen of piping floral decorations part of Philippine households
around the world. From the Judy Ann Santos-Agoncillo for cakes and cupcakes from for more than 50 years, The
Spanish dehesa to ancient shares her well-loved recipes this London-based Filipino Maya Kitchen just released
tuna fishing and mixed- sectioned according to duo. From buttercream its new cookbook featuring
crop organic farms, among phases in her life—recipes recipes, basic petal strokes, over 150 kitchen-tested
other destinations, Barber she grew up with, meals color mixing to creating recipes. Enjoy stories and
builds a panorama of ethical she prepares for her friends multi-tiered cakes, this anecdotes from its 50 years
and flavorful eating with and family, and her personal book simplifies the steps for of history. Learn how to
the vision to refashion favorites—all contained in beginners and those who cook all-time favorites like
Americans’ deepest beliefs this best selling cookbook. wish to master cake flower Brazo de Mercedes, Silvanas,
about food. Available at National designs. Black Forest, Ube Macapuno
Available at Fully Booked Bookstore Available at Fully Booked Roll and Pineapple Upside-
Down Cake. Available
Jamie Oliver’s Comfort at National Bookstore and
Food By Jamie Oliver Powerbooks
This global celebrity chef ’s
latest book is all about the
food you really want to eat,
made exactly how you like
it. The book features exciting
and new versions of all-time
favorites like ramen and katsu
curry, super eggs Benedict,
and scrumptious sticky toffee
pudding, among others, and
also introduces cherished
dishes from countries around
the world
Available at Fully Booked APP
Photography by OCS ALVAREZ
Styling by BEL ALVAREZ Wine ‘n Dine
Foodies will surely love
TV website this photo sharing app
dedicated to food pics
only. Wine ‘n Dine allows
users to tag the restaurant
CHEF NEXT DOOR their featured dish is
This entertaining cooking show follows Chef Jonas from, giving followers the
opportunity to create lists
Ng as he goes about his high-pressure job in the of their favorites. It also
professional kitchen with a generous dose of wit, has unique features such as
science and humor. Head chef and owner of Huat “Wanna Try” and “Discover”
Pot Hotpot Restaurant and Le Jardin, Chef Jonas shares that help users answer two
restaurant-quality questions we often ask
every day: where and what
recipes, tips and hacks
to eat. Available at the
learned throughout NERDY NUMMIES App Store and Google Play
his ten years in the Check out this geeky cooking show on
industry. YouTube hosted by Rosanna Pansino.
Airs Mondays 10 Ro makes nerdy themed goodies. Her
PM, Tuesdays 5:30 famous creations include a Star Trek
AM, Wednesdays Voyager Cake, Harry Potter Golden
5:30 PM, Fridays Snitch Caramel Apple Cider, Pacman
12 AM and 9:30 Jello Jigglers, and Guardians of the
PM on the Lifestyle Galaxy Groot themed cookies, among
Network many others. Her channel has four
million subscribers and an average of
75 million views per month. www.
youtube.com/rosannapansino

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 19


TASTINGS | travel

HIDDEN
Be like the tourist who’s
thrown away his guidebook,
and join us as we poke about
the whimsical Poblacion

MAKATI
Crying Tiger
Street Kitchen
district in Makati
By TROY BARRIOS

One evening in this humid,


crowded little joint will
have you overusing the
hashtag #hiddengem. It
serves really good Thai
food, plus other Asian
dishes, at very reasonable
prices. Go for the Thai
Fried Chicken or the
Malaysian Wings, thickly
coated in a sweet-spicy PLACES TO CHILL
marinade and grilled, not (Clockwise from
fried. Or order the Mee top left) Black
Pepper Tofu over
Goreng (spicy seafood Jasmine Rice at
noodles), Thai barbecue Crying Tiger;
or Thai omelet. Best of a cozy corner
at Commune;
all, there’s really decent the signature
liquor on the menu, from soft tacos at El
Chupacabra; the
bottles of Chang beer to logo of A’Toda
shots of Hendricks gin. Madre
Guanzon Street, Makati

El Chupacabra
I was there on a rainy
evening and the spatter of
raindrops didn’t seem to
matter. The place was still
jammed with diners wolfing
down the signature Street
Tacos in their soft shells—in
variants such as Carne Asada,
Baja Cal Fish Taco, Chorizo
con Papas and Vegeteriano.
Order some grilled boneless
chicken skewers, a bowl Juan, a social media expert exclusively Philippine and Cueritos Enfurtidos
of chili con carne (with obsessed with Philippine coffee, and soon there will (chicharones with salsa rojo),
a tortilla) and some cold coffee, Commune is not be local craft beers, too. a Taco sampler. The tequila
beer. You can even keep just a café but a place for Durban Street, is the real draw. If you’re a
track of the latest basketball people to gather and be Poblacion, Makati beginner, nurse a cocktail,
game by listening (and part of a community. The perhaps a margarita, and
watching via) the sports bar menu features rice meals A’Toda Madre expose yourself to a little
across the narrow street. like nilagang pork ribs or Right across the street tequila education. If you’re a
5782 Felipe corner Polaris chicken adobo made with from Hotel Durban, this pro, you might want a sip of
Street, Makati, (02) 895-1919 sustainable and/or organic tiny joint is the first tequila the Partida Elegante, one of
ingredients, all-day breakfasts bar in Manila carrying the most expensive tequilas
Commune (chicken longanisa, pork over 89 varieties of this in the world—it will set you
Cafe + Bar tocino), a harvest of veggie divine liquor. The menu is back by P2,800 per shot.
Now this is a stellar café that dishes and deli sandwiches. very spare. There’s Elotes G/F Sunette Tower, Durban
is unabashedly, wonderfully It’s also the only Third Wave Callejeros (grilled and Street corner Makati
Pinoy. The brainchild of Ros café in the city that carries buttered Mexican corn) Avenue, Poblacion, Makati

20 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


sweet stuff
By Joey E. Prats

OUR DAILY FRUIT


An apple (tart) a day keeps the doctor away
3KRWRJUDSK\E\ PAULO VALENZUELA

F
6W\OLQJE\ NANCY DIZON-EDRALIN

ruits are a great way to increase the nutritional value of


desserts. They are low in sugar, high in dietary fiber, and
with barely any fat. When picked in season, they are
delightfully flavorful. One of my favorite desserts that
never goes out of style is the classic French apple tart.
In this recipe, a quick and buttery pat-in-pan dough bakes
to a shortbread-like texture that gives the tart a sturdy base.
For intense fruit flavor, I packed the tart with a whopping
five pounds of apples, made more luxurious with butter and
apricot preserves. Apple slices arranged in concentric circles,
a thin coat of preserves and a final run under the broiler
provide an attractively caramelized finish and a distinctively
European flair.

French Apple Tart URWDWLQJWKHSDQKDOIZD\


Serves 8 WKURXJKEDNLQJ6HWDVLGH
XQWLOUHDG\WRˉOO
CRUST:
1 1/2 cups all-purpose FILLING:
 ˊRXU 10 large Golden Delicious strained preserves for Remove tart from oven and
1/4 cup + 1 tablespoon apples (or Fuji apples), EUXVKLQJWDUW heat broiler.
caster sugar peeled and cored 3. &XWUHPDLQLQJDSSOHV 6. :KLOHWKHEURLOHUKHDWV
WHDVSRRQˉQHVHDVDOW 3 tablespoons unsalted into 1/2-inch-thick warm reserved preserves in
1/2 cup + 2 tablespoons butter, divided ZHGJHV0HOWUHPDLQLQJ PLFURZDYHXQWLOˊXLGDERXW
unsalted butter, melted 1 tablespoon water tablespoons butter in the VHFRQGV%UXVKHYHQO\
1/2 cup apricot preserves QRZHPSW\VNLOOHWRYHU RYHUVXUIDFHRIDSSOHV
1. Adjust one oven rack to WHDVSRRQˉQHVHDVDOW PHGLXPKHDW$GGUHPDLQLQJ DYRLGLQJWDUWFUXVW%URLOWDUW
the lowest position and a DSULFRWSUHVHUYHVUHVHUYHG FKHFNLQJHYHU\VHFRQGV
second rack 5 to 6 inches 1.&XWDSSOHVOHQJWKZLVH DSULFRWVROLGVDSSOHZHGJHV DQGWXUQLQJDVQHFHVVDU\
from the broiler element. into quarters and cut each DQGVDOW&RYHUDQGFRRN XQWLODSSOHVDUHDWWUDFWLYHO\
Preheat the oven to 350°F. TXDUWHUOHQJWKZLVHLQWR VWLUULQJRFFDVLRQDOO\XQWLO FDUDPHOL]HGWRPLQXWHV
2. :KLVNˊRXUFDVWHUVXJDU slices. Melt 1 tablespoon DSSOHVDUHYHU\VRIWDERXW Let tart cool for at least 1
DQGVDOWLQDPL[LQJERZO butter in a 12-inch skillet 10 minutes. 1/2 hours. Remove outer
Add melted butter and stir over medium heat. Add 4. Mash apples into a purée PHWDOULQJRIWDUWSDQVOLGH
with a wooden spoon until apple slices and water and with a potato masher. thin metal spatula between
PL[WXUHIRUPVLQWRDGRXJK toss to combine. Cover and &RQWLQXHWRFRRNVWLUULQJ WDUWDQGSDQERWWRPDQG
3. 8VLQJ\RXUKDQGVSUHVV FRRNVWLUULQJRFFDVLRQDOO\ RFFDVLRQDOO\XQWLOSXU«HLV FDUHIXOO\VOLGHWDUWRQWR
RIWKHGRXJKWRWKH XQWLODSSOHVEHJLQWRWXUQ UHGXFHGWRFXSVDERXW VHUYLQJSODWWHU&XWLQWR
bottom of a 9-inch round WUDQVOXFHQWDQGDUHVOLJKWO\ minutes. ZHGJHVDQGVHUYH
tart pan with a removable SOLDEOHWRPLQXWHV 5. Transfer apple purée to
ERWWRP3UHVVUHPDLQLQJ 7UDQVIHUDSSOHVWRDODUJH EDNHGWDUWVKHOOˉOODQG This treat is little more than
GRXJKWRWKHˊXWHGVLGHV SODWHVSUHDGLQWRDVLQJOH VPRRWKWKHVXUIDFH6HOHFW apples and pastry but, according
of the tart pan. Press and OD\HUDQGVHWDVLGHWRFRRO 5 thinnest slices of sautéed to Chef Joey, such simplicity means
that imperfections like tough or
VPRRWKGRXJKWRDQHYHQ Do not clean skillet. DSSOHDQGVHWDVLGH6WDUWLQJ PXVK\DSSOHVXQEDODQFHGˊDYRU
thickness. 2. :KLOHDSSOHVFRRN DWRXWHUHGJHRIWDUWDUUDQJH and a sodden crust are hard to
4. Place tart pan on a microwave apricot preserves UHPDLQLQJVOLFHVWLJKWO\ hide. To learn more of Chef Joey’s
ULPPHGEDNLQJVKHHWDQG XQWLOˊXLGDERXWVHFRQGV RYHUODSSLQJLQFRQFHQWULF SDVWU\VHFUHWVYLVLW-RH\3UDWV
6FKRRORI%DNLQJDQG3DVWU\$UWV
EDNHRQWKHORZHVWUDFN 6WUDLQSUHVHUYHVWKURXJK circles. Bend reserved slices
on Facebook for his schedule of
XQWLOFUXVWLVGHHSJROGHQ DˉQHPHVKVWUDLQHULQWRD WRˉWLQFHQWHU%DNHWDUW lifestyle cooking and baking classes
EURZQDQGˉUPWRWKHWRXFK VPDOOERZOUHVHUYLQJVROLGV VWLOORQDEDNLQJVKHHWRQ and his three-month Fundamentals
DERXWWRPLQXWHV 6HWDVLGHWDEOHVSRRQV ORZHVWUDFNIRUPLQXWHV RI%DNLQJDQG3DVWU\$UWVFRXUVH

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 21


farm tales
By Sandra F. Celi

ADLAI IN FASHION
No longer just an alternative to rice
and corn, this local grain is becoming
a favorite among local chefs
Photography by PAUL DEL ROSARIO
Styling by TINA CONCEPCION DIAZ

E
ver heard of exotic grains complement to hearty meat
like quinoa, bulgur, dishes.
amaranth? They’ve Adlai has a neutral taste,
become popular and making it a perfect carrier for
trendy among health other flavors. You can cook it
enthusiasts and food lovers just like rice for an instant and
alike. The downside is they’re healthy meal. Consumption
expensive and difficult to of adlai can provide the body
source. But did you know that with essential nutrients like
we have our own local grain iron, calcium, potassium and
that could very well become zinc.
the next great fad? For a different take on
Adlai (coix lacryma-jobi adlai, try Gourmix which is
L.) is an indigenous crop a combination of adlai grits,
found in tropical parts of soy and monggo. Here’s how I
southern and eastern Asia. like to eat it: first I sauté a lot
From the same family as of garlic, then onions which
wheat, rice and corn, it I slowly caramelize. I mix in
grows abundantly in the sliced ginger or you can also
Philippines. It was never add shredded meat. Then
given much attention I finish with soup stock or
until the Department of coconut water. Once boiling,
Agriculture initiated its I add the Gourmix. You Endulsao Chavacano ADLAI:
research and development. can make it into a healthy By Chef Tippi Tambunting of 2 cups adlai
As a result, adlai is now porridge that you can season Massetto and Donosti Pintxos 2 cups water
being fashioned as a major and garnish to your liking. y Tapas
food staple alongside rice Gourmix is priced slightly Serves 6 to 8 1. Combine all the
and corn. After all, adlai is higher than rice because its ingredients in a pot and
accepted as an alternative recovery rate during harvest 1 kilo liempo (pork belly), simmer until pork is tender.
staple by indigenous peoples is lower. There is also a cut into cubes Season to taste if needed.
such as the Subanen tribe in glutinous variety that is so 1/2 cup soy sauce 2. CombineDGODLand
Zamboanga del Sur and in good for making our malagkit 1 cup pineapple juice water and cook in the rice
farming communities where delicacies. 1 bottle beer cooker. Serve with Endulsao
rice and white corn are not Thanks to greater 1/2 cup sugar Chavacano.
traditionally produced. awareness and marketing 2 cloves garlic, minced
During Madrid Fusión efforts, adlai is slowly making 1 onion, chopped
Manila last April, adlai made its way into restaurant menus 1 bay leaf
its grand appearance during as chefs continue to look 1 tablespoon chopped
a series of regional lunches for sustainable and flavorful ginger
sponsored by the Department alternatives to liven up their peppercorns
of Agriculture. Several dishes. So what was once
of the country’s top chefs pushed as an alternative to <RXFDQˉQG*RXUPL[DWWKHPRQWKO\2UJDQLF$JULSUHQHXU0DUNHWRU
used it in their dishes. This rice to help food sufficiency FRQWDFW5RZHQD7ROHQWLQRDW  )RUDQ\TXHVWLRQVHPDLO
featured recipe by Chef Tippi has now stepped up the WKHDXWKRUDWVSUHDGRUJDQLFDJULFXOWXUH#\DKRRFRP-RLQ6SUHDG2UJDQLF
Tambunting was a big hit as it ladder to become the latest $JULFXOWXUHLQWKH3KLOLSSLQHV 62$3 RQ)DFHERRNWROHDUQPRUHDERXW
showcased adlai as a perfect darling of the food world. LWVIUHHVHPLQDUVDQGWKHPRQWKO\2UJDQLF$JULSUHQHXU0DUNHW

22 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


key ingredient
By Jill F. Sandique

THE POWER OF KALE


This superfood isn’t just for salads anymore

W
Photography by PAULO VALENZUELA

hat is kale? Related to the cabbage family but


without a head in its center, kale is rich in beta-
carotene, vitamins C and K, as well as calcium. It
is also known to possess anti-cancer properties,
hence it is now listed as a “superfood.”
More familiar in Western cooking, this leafy vegetable is
often braised, fried, sautéed, baked as a vegetable gratin, or
simply served as a salad. About two to three years ago, kale
became a trendy ingredient that soon popped up in organic
food co-ops and juice bars in the United States. Soon after
kale gained in popularity in Asia as well.
In this recipe, I added kale as a healthy ingredient to a
usually boring egg white “omelette” which is baked instead of
cooked in a skillet. This nutrient-packed dish is delicious and
easy to prepare—perfect for breakfast or any time of the day.

Baked Egg Whites 1. Preheat oven to


with Kale and 375°F. Grease 2 oven-
Mushrooms proof containers with 1
Serves 2 tablespoon olive oil. Set
aside.
2 tablespoons olive oil, 2. Chop kale into bite-size
divided pieces. Set aside. salt and pepper. Remove
3 to 4 cups kale, trimmed 3. In a small, non-stick from heat and set aside
then blanched sauté pan, heat remaining EULHˊ\ Kale is readily available in local
1 onion, sliced into rings olive oil over medium heat. 5. In a bowl, whisk together organic markets, wet markets and
1/2 to 1 cup fresh Pan-grill onion until golden egg whites and skim milk. even select supermarkets. But if
mushrooms (button, brown and aromatic. Set $GGJULOOHGRQLRQDQG \RXFDQȠWˉQGLW&KHI-LOOVXJJHVWV
using a variety of kale called kailan
oyster, enoki, etc.) aside. In the same pan, add sautéed vegetables. Pour ZKLFKLVPRUHFRPPRQLQ$VLD
1 teaspoon minced garlic mushrooms and cook until into prepared containers and )HHOIUHHWRH[SHULPHQWZLWKRWKHU
salt and pepper, to taste liquid from the mushrooms top with paprika. Bake for 12 WRSSLQJVZKDWHYHUPHDWVVHDIRRG
4 egg whites has evaporated. WRPLQXWHVRUXQWLOˉUP RUYHJHWDEOHV\RXKDYHRQKDQG
&KHI-LOOLVDFXOLQDU\FRQVXOWDQW
2 tablespoons skim milk 4. Stir in garlic and cook and golden brown. OHDGWUDLQRUIRUWKH8QLWHG6WDWHV
paprika, to taste EULHˊ\$GGWKHNDOH&RRN 6. Serve hot with salad 'HSDUWPHQWRI$JULFXOWXUHDQGWKH
until wilted. Season with greens. RZQHURI'HOL]H&DNHVDQG3DVWULHV

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 23


wellness
By Gerry H. Tan, MD, FACP, FACE, FPCP, FPSEM

EGGS AREN’T
SO BAD
AFTER ALL
Time to reintroduce the good
kind of fat into your diet
Photography by PAULO VALENZUELA

N
Styling by NANCY DIZON-EDRALIN

utrition has always fascinated me.


It’s a challenge to help patients
realize how nutrition can affect
the way they live with their
disease. Some patients tend to
ignore doctors’ recommendations simply
because they see life as too short not to
enjoy food. And the kind of food they
enjoy best is usually highly dense, fat-
laden and carbohydrate-rich.
While it’s common knowledge that
we should cut fat from our diet, I have
always been a proponent of the high fat,
low carbohydrate revolution. I ask my
patients to follow the proper “metabolic”
nutrition guide consisting of the 40-20-
40 rule—40% of total calories from fat,
preferably high in monounsaturated fat,
20% from protein, and only 40% from
carbohydrates. Take note that I don’t
advise limiting cholesterol but only
saturated fats in general. This has been
my dietary advice for many years since I
believe carbohydrates are the culprit for
excess calories, which can lead to obesity.
It did not come as a surprise when
the U.S. dietary council “finally” changed
their stand on nutrition guidelines. There
has been too much focus on cholesterol I cannot overemphasize that eating too much sugar from
as the culprit when, in fact, dietary cholesterol has little simple carbohydrates from fruits, honey and pastries builds up
impact on the actual levels of bad cholesterol in the blood. calories that increase triglycerides, leading to fatty deposits in
More so, high blood cholesterol and the risk for heart disease the liver and clogging in the arteries.
are likewise due to genetics. Your genes, as it turns out, are The process of nutrition, cholesterol and our body is
a much bigger factor in whether or not you’ll have high bad complex. It is not as easy as 1 + 1 = 2. How the body regulates
cholesterol. “bad” or “good” cholesterol is also determined by genetics.
So in 2015, cholesterol is no longer considered a “nutrient Some people are more vulnerable than others. There are
of concern.”Although this may mean we can now eat eggs, people who can eat eggs every day without incident, and
lobster, crab and shrimps without guilt, we should still be there are those who inevitably become sick if they do.
careful of eating too much “fatty” foods, because they are
high in calories, and make us gain weight. Instead we can “My best nutrition advice to my patients and to the readers: There
focus more on limiting our intake of saturated fats from is no good or bad food… We are simply eating TOO MUCH!” says Dr.
Gerry. He encourages us to create a positive home environment that
red meat, fast foods and processed meats that are known to promotes healthy eating and exercise. Dr. Gerry is a Mayo Clinic-trained
significantly increase the risk of heart disease. In addition, endocrinologist based in Cebu. Visit his website at www.docgerrytan.com.

24 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


Dining Out

W e e k e n d Brunch
A Tuscan Feast at Il Ponticello

T
By ANGELO RACELIS | Photography by IAN CASTAÑARES

here is something comforting Tuscan home Benedetto, with mortadella answer to caramel bread
about the leisureliness cooking with some playful bologna, a velvety choron pudding) to modern treats
of a weekend brunch adaptations. sauce made with tomato like Cheesecake Caramel
that makes it feel Worthy of praise is the purée and a poached egg, Panna Cotta.
like a sanctuary from rich Lasagna Carbonara all layered on a mushroom With Il Ponticello’s
the hustle and bustle of city made with pancetta, Grana ciabatta. Meanwhile, young serene atmosphere and
life. For one such delightful Padano cheese, eggs and a diners can have fun creating cool-colored interiors, even
experience, we recommend generous dose of mozzarella. their own pizzas with four the busiest guests can take it
Brunchissimo, the Saturday Another standout is the different toppings to choose slow and enjoy themselves.
brunch menu at Il Ponticello, luscious Porchetta Plate, or from. But a Tuscan feast is So while breakfast may still
inspired by the rustic flavors pork belly roasted with herbs what Il Ponticello promises, be our most important meal
of the Italian countryside. to achieve a distinct flavor and nothing says that more of the day, at Il Ponticello,
Having been mentored by and perfect crunch. The than its all-you-can-eat brunch becomes our most
Italian chefs and nurturing Tuscan Polpettone, which Pancetta Arrotolata, dry- pleasurable one.
a reverence for the fresh Chef Panky calls his “Italian cured pork belly carved then
ingredients of Italy, head meatloaf,” is redolent with cooked just how you like it. 2/F Antel Corporate Center,
chef Panky Lopez uses fennel and paprika. Eggs Desserts range from classics 121 Valero Street, Salcedo
authentic Italian ingredients Benedict is given a southern like Tiramisu and Caramelo Village, Makati City, (02)
and techniques to create Italian twist as Uoya Alla di Semolina (an Italian’s 553-9971, 994-9512

ITALIAN FLAVORS
(Clockwise from top)
Best-selling roasted
Porchetta; Il
Ponticello’s rustic
appeal; Tuscan
Polpettone or
“Italian meatloaf”; a
hearty plate of steak
and eggs; a relaxed
weekend setting

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 25


Brunch goes basque at Vask
By TROY BARRIOS | Photography by IAN CASTAÑARES

BASQUE BITES
(Clockwise from
left) Vask’s quirky
interiors; cochinillo
and paella on a
plate; boquerones
in olive oil; an
assortment of
pintxos

W
hen Chef Chele the traditional flavors of vinegar and extra virgin olive fork-tender on the inside,
Gonzalez his hometown, the Basque oil; Croquetas de Jamon y crispy on the outside, and
announced his region in northern Spain. The Pollo, ham and chicken in completely irresistible. End
new weekend result is an extraordinarily bechamel sauce; and Patatas your meal with a selection of
brunch menu delightful Basque-style Bravas or deep-fried potato sweets from the dessert buffet
for Vask Modern Tapas brunch that is served almost cubes. The fresh flavors of and consider how, in the
& Gastronomic Cuisine, tapas-style in small plates. the coastal Basque region are space of a few hours, you had
eyebrows were raised and The dish selections are reflected in the Pulpos a la the privilege of tasting the
mouths watered. Chef very classic, authentic in Gallega, octopus and potatoes flavors of northern Spain in
Chele is well known for ingredients and flavor. You fried with paprika, and the the way only Chele Gonzalez
his devotion to modern can begin with a selection of Mejillones, mussels deep- can give you.
gastronomy, rooted in pintxos or Basque canapés fried with bechamel sauce.
the foodie capital of San paired with free-flowing The tapas-style character 5/F Clipp Center, 11th Avenue
Sebastian in Spain and having kalimotxo, a Basque-style of the buffet is part of its corner 39th Street, Bonifacio
trained in modernist temples sangria made with white charm, but you will inevitably Global City, (02) 217-6563.
Arzak and Mugaritz. Chef wine, mangoes, oranges and lose yourself in the star of the Weekend Brunch is available
Chele took a break from his peach Schnapps. These small buffet: a sumptuous cochinillo, Saturdays and Sundays,
high concept style to create plates include Boquerones cooked sous vide for 16 hours 11:30 AM to 2 PM
a brunch that celebrates or anchovies marinated in until it is perfectly juicy and

26 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


DINING OUT

THE KABILA APPEAL


(Clockwise from left)
Kabila’s relaxing,
expansive space
beside the Ayala
Museum; Bangus
Belly Bistek Style;
a comforting bowl
of Asian Noodles;
Chicken Tandoori
with Indian bread
and condiments

A boutique brunch
at Kabila

I W
By TROY BARRIOS | Photography by IAN CASTAÑARES

t will take the whole morning, perhaps luxury of Norwegian smoked salmon or hen Chef Jose
longer, to fully appreciate the Sunday meats from the carving station. Luis “Chele”
Boutique Brunch at Kabila Filipino Should there be nothing on the Gonzalez
Bistro. The tiny buffet hits just the buffet that catches your fancy, the announced
right spot with its luscious, carefully brunch menu will also allow you to his new
chosen dishes on offer. Start your choose from nine signature dishes, weekend brunch menu
meal with a selection of freshly baked including Bangus Belly Bistek Style, for Vask Modern Tapas
breads—rye, sourdough or multigrain— Grilled Chicken Tandoori and Asian & Gastronomic Cuisine,
to enjoy with flavored cheeses like Noodles. And soon, there will be sushi eyebrows were raised and
Cilantro Crusted Cream Cheese, Fried and other seafood specialties on the mouths watered. Chef
Garlic Crusted Cream Cheese, or Black menu. It’s a smorgasboard and Asian, Chele is well known for
Pepper Crusted Cream Cheese. The Continental and Filipino flavors. his devotion to modern
charcuterie bar has premium jamon With the soft morning sunshine gastronomy, rooted in
Serrano and calchichon, while the filtering in through the glass walls, the foodie capital of San
raw bar is piled high with fresh river Kabila is the perfect place for a casual Sebastian in Spain and having
prawns, Aklan oysters and mussels from family brunch. All to the tune of live trained in modernist temples
New Zealand. jazz music. Arzak and Mugaritz. Chef
For more breakfast-y choices, there Chele took a break from his
is a live cooking station for pancakes Located inside M Café, Ayala Museum high concept style to create
and omelets, as well as classic egg dishes Complex, Makati Avenue corner Dela a brunch that celebrates
like Croque Monsieur served with Rosa Street, Makati, (02) 757-3000 or
bechamel and Gruyère. Indulge in the 757-6000

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 27


The beast at The Hyatt Café

T
By TROY BARRIOS | Photography by CHERYL BORSOTO NASOL

he hotel breakfast cooking). This Australian well-curated. There are the cream and halo halo. For an
buffet is a well-loved Wagyu, easily one of the usual breakfast classics—eggs extra fee, there’s unlimited
classic, combining best in the world, gives beef any way you want them, Prosecco, too.
the winning elements an exquisite juiciness and homemade waffles and With its high ceilings,
of luxury, a plethora tenderness, and a fine buttery crepes, steaks, lamb and interactive show kitchen
of cuisines to choose from, texture. You can choose to sausages. Explore the pizza and vibrant cooking, The
and beautifully-rendered take it as shawarma, steak or and pasta options (even Café is culinary theater that
versions of classic breakfast barbecue cut with a selection gluten-free) at the Italian makes brunch delicious,
dishes. At The Café at Hyatt of sauces—but we say you’ll station, or the Peking duck, entertaining and easy all at
City of Dreams Manila, need no trimmings to savor assorted dimsum and roasts once.
Sunday brunch has all these its tenderness and flavor. at the Asian station. Don’t
elements, and more. Beyond the Beast, there miss the French cheeses The Café, G/F Hyatt City
First, there’s The Beast. are six live cooking stations and freshly baked breads at of Dreams Manila, Aseana
This is a hundred-pound doing a la minute cooking the deli counter, while the Avenue corner Roxas
leg of Mayura Station so you can enjoy your food pastry and dessert counter Boulevard, Entertainment
Wagyu that takes four days as fresh as possible. The is where you can splurge on City, Parañaque, (02) 691-
to prepare (three days to selection is not the widest an assortment of cakes, bon 1234, cityofdreams@hyatt.com
marinate, one day of slow in the city, but it is very bons, financiers, cookies, ice or codmanilahyatt.com

BUFFET STYLE
DINING AT ITS BEST
(Clockwise from top)
Live cooking stations
brimming with fresh
fare; mini blinis
with caviar to pair
with champagne;
the Italian set meal,
for those who don’t
want to choose from
the buffet

28 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


DINING OUT

CONTEMPORARY
CHINESE (Clockwise
from top left)
Steamed Pork Siomai
LQ7UXIˊH%DNHG
Barbecue Pork Buns;
Pan-fried Radish
Cake in XO Sauce;
Steamed Shrimp
Dumpling with Gold
Leaf; Lung Hin’s
classy interiors on
WKHWKˊRRU

Lung Hin’s Dimsum offers so much, you may still be tempted


to order from the main menu. If so,
must-haves are the Stir-fried Squid

Extravaganza with Mashed Salted Egg (also available


with scallops) as well as the Fish Lip
Dried Scallop Soup, best doused with

B
By ANNE MARIE OZAETA black vinegar. Even the fried rice is a
notch above the usual, especially when
Photos courtesy of MARCO POLO ORTIGAS MANILA

runch doesn’t have to be about dimsum chef Ka Ming Pun, Lung Hin’s stir-fried with Angus beef and XO
bacon and eggs. Why not do traditional Cantonese menu has a sauce. And for dessert, you must order
dimsum instead? And for a refreshingly modern edge. The dimsum the chilled Avocado Sago, a bit heavy,
top quality selection, head to lunch menu may offer all the usual but with its creamy avocado purée and
Lung Hin, Marco Polo Ortigas favorites but Chef Sunny still manages coconut milk, worth all the calories.
Manila’s signature Chinese restaurant. to surprise. A dollop of truffle sauce Don’t be intimidated by Lung Hin’s
Located on the 44th floor, Lung Hin tops Steamed Pork Siomai bursting with seemingly fine dining ambiance and
exudes elegance with its subdued tones meat. Steamed Shrimp Dumplings are refined service. It caters to everyone
and sleek furnishings—no gaudy red delicate yet substantial, topped with who appreciates authentic Chinese
décor in sight. While weekdays cater edible gold leaf. The Barbecue Pork fare prepared with quality ingredients,
to the business crowd, weekends are buns are heavenly, with a soft, pillowy attention to detail, and an extra bit of
more casual with families enjoying bun hiding behind a crunchy exterior. flair.
the excellent Cantonese food amidst Even better are the Fried Taro Puffs
commanding views of the city. without the starchiness, as well as the Marco Polo Ortigas Manila, Meralco
Thanks to its Hong Kong-bred Pan-fried Radish Cake with XO sauce. Avenue and Sapphire Street, Ortigas
executive chef Sunny Cheng and While the dimsum menu already Center, Pasig City, (02) 720-7777

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 29


Chorizo Fundido
+HUHȠV:LOGˊRXUȠV
version of a cheese
fondue, done
Mexican style with
lots of spices, the
wetter the better,
for easier dunking
RIEUHDG:LOGˊRXU
makes its own
Mexican chorizo
using ground pork,
chilies and a host
of other spices. You
can try this recipe
using your favorite
store-bought
chorizo. Just remove
the meat from the
casing and cook in
a pan before using.

30 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


Breakfast is always better when eggs are involved, especially
when paired with these spectacular all-day breakfast dishes

By ANNE MARIE OZAETA


Recipes courtesy of WILDFLOUR CAFÉ + BAKERY
Photography by OCS ALVAREZ
Styling by BEL ALVAREZ

A
dd an egg to a protein, we had to call Rice, or simply served
dish, any dish, in the experts. It so with butter and toast.
and it’ll instantly happens the chefs at According to Chef Allen
make you smile. the hugely successful Buhay, Wildflour’s four
We don’t quite Wildflour Café + branches use up to
understand why, but in Bakery like to cook with 14,000 eggs per week!
some mysterious way, eggs, lots of them. They Whatever the
eggs make any dish make up a big part of presentation—poached,
infinitely better and, as the restaurant’s daytime fried, scrambled,
we’ve learned thanks to menu, from breakfast to baked—eggs bring
recent studies, healthier, lunch. They’re added to that extra touch of
too. the bestselling Croque creaminess and easy
To help us have Madame, topped on luxury, the runnier the
fun with this versatile the popular Kimchi better, of course.

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 31


Breakfast Steak and Eggs
6WHDNIRUEUHDNIDVW"$EVROXWHO\$W:LOGˊRXU&KHI$OOHQ
likes to use Kitayama Wagyu rib-eye whenever possible.
With cattle grown in Bukidnon, Kitayama has emerged
as a top quality local Wagyu brand popular with many
RIWKHFRXQWU\ȠVWRSFKHIV<RXFDQˉQGDIXOOUDQJHRI
Kitayama beef cuts at the Kitayama Meatshop, 2292
Chino Roces Avenue, Makati City, (02) 887-5848.

32 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


:LOGˊRXU6DODG
This salad harks back to the classic Cobb
with its calorie-busting toppings of
avocado, bacon, chicken, cheese and
egg. But rather than traditional hard-
ERLOHGHJJV:LOGˊRXUXVHVSRDFKHG
eggs instead. Break the yolk and mix
it in as part of the salad dressing. It’s
a brilliant way to add creaminess to a
dish. (For an instant refresher on how
to poach eggs, check out the Home
Basics section of FOOD’s Issue 2, 2015.)

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 33


Shakshouka
<RXȠOOˉQGYHUVLRQVRIWKLV
popular breakfast staple
throughout the Middle
East and North Africa.
=HVW\ˊDYRUIXODQGVR
easy to make, it’s sure to
become an instant favorite
at home! Chef Allen uses
harissa paste from North
Africa to spice up this
tomato-pepper stew. You
FDQˉQGLWLQPRVWVSHFLDOW\
gourmet stores. But if you
don’t have any on hand,
add a generous amount
of chili powder or fresh
chopped chilies instead for
that necessary zing.

34 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


:LOGˊRXU%UHDNIDVW
with Sausage
The ideal breakfast platter
must have the following:
sausages, potatoes, bread
DQGHJJV:LOGˊRXUȠV
version may be simple and
straightforward but the
chefs make sure that each
component is as perfectly
prepared as can be, from
the just-right crispiness of
the potatoes to the all-meat
goodness of the sausages.
If you don’t want to make
your own sausages, try
good quality Johnsonville
breakfast sausages found in
leading supermarkets.

The Wildflour Way


J
ust celebrating its third Chef Walter for several years, techniques. And serve
anniversary with its Chef Allen Buhay moved unlimited amounts of its
fourth branch in Legaspi to Manila from the United fresh-baked artisan baguettes.
Village, Wildflour Café + States to head the kitchen
Bakery is a phenomenon that for a short six-month stint. G/F Net Lima Building, 26th
has truly transformed the Three years later, he is still Street corner 4th Avenue,
local restaurant scene. With here, reveling in the success Bonifacio Global City,
always-full tables and a rabid of Wildflour as well as its (02) 856-7600
customer following, this sibling ice cream parlor,
café-bakery has succeeded Farmacy. He shares, “Our G/F The Podium, ADB
beyond the wildest dreams menu is based on the farm Avenue, Ortigas Center, Pasig
of its owners, Los Angeles- and the market. We bring City, (02), 571-8588
based chef Walter Manzke in new ingredients and we
and his pastry chef wife make sure we’re not bound G/F V-Corp Tower, 125 L.P.
Margarita Manzke of by one cuisine.” This winning Leviste Street, Salcedo Village,
Republique fame, along with formula seems simple: Makati City, (02) 808-7072
Marge’s sister Ana Lorenzana support the farmers and buy
de Ocampo who is based in local as much as possible, G/F Frabelle Building,
Manila. invest in the best ingredients, Rada Street, Legaspi Village,
Having worked with work with the right culinary Makati City, (02) 833-9799

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 35


Chorizo Fundido Breakfast Steak in a bowl and toss 1 cup harissa paste to a big cast iron
Serves 1 and Eggs with green goddess 5 kilos overripe pan or ovenproof
Serves 1 dressing. Season with roma tomatoes or casserole. Crack eggs
130 grams salt and pepper. 3 cans (#10 size) on top and bake in a
Mexican chorizo 300 grams boneless 2. Arrange chicken, San Marzano 350°F oven until eggs
1 1/2 tablespoons rib-eye steak avocado, bacon, blue tomatoes are cooked to your
cheddar 190 grams potatoes cheese and candied 1/3 cup + 1 desired doneness.
2 tablespoons mornay 2 teaspoons salsa walnuts on top. tablespoon 6. Serve with yogurt
sauce (recipe below) verde (recipe below) Add poached egg or tomato paste or feta cheese and
1/4 cup mozzarella 2 fried eggs, eggs in the center. 2 teaspoons cumin top with fresh herbs.
cheese sunny side up Season egg with 2 teaspoons
1 fried egg salt and pepper. caraway seeds
15 grams arugula 1. Grill or sear 2 teaspoons Wildflour
baguette slices steak to desired GREEN GODDESS black pepper Breakfast with
DRESSING : 6 eggs Sausage
temperature. Make
1. Spread Mexican sure to rest steaks 6 egg yolks yogurt or feta Serves 2
chorizo on the for 5 minutes 1 cup white wine cheese, for serving
bottom of a cazuela or before serving. vinegar fresh herbs, 120 grams breakfast
ovenproof casserole. 2. Bake potatoes in 1/3 cup water for garnish sausage (or your
2. Top with the a 350°F oven until 1 teaspoon mustard favorite sausage)
cheddar cheese, tender. Break apart 3 cups neutral-tasting 1. In a big heavy cooking oil, as needed
mornay sauce and and fry until crispy. oil (like canola or bottom pot, heat 2 eggs
mozzarella cheese. 3. Serve steak with corn) olive oil and sauté 190 grams potatoes
3. Bake in a 350°F salsa verde on top juice and zest of 1 onions and garlic. 1/2 mini baguette
oven until bubbly. and fried eggs. lemon Season with salt butter, for serving
4. Place egg on juice and zest of 1 and let sweat. Add
SALSA VERDE :
top and garnish lime yellow, red and green 1. Brown sausages
with arugula. Serve 1 cup chopped parsley 1 garlic clove, minced bell peppers and in a pan with a
with baguette 1 cup chopped 1 tablespoon chopped cook until soft. little cooking oil.
slices for dipping cilantro tarragon 2. Add harissa paste 2. Cook eggs
into the fundido. 1/3 cup mint, 20 grams arugula, and roast for about according to your
julienned chopped 3 minutes. The paste desired style.
MORNAY SAUCE : 1 1/2 cups olive oil 2 teaspoons chopped will be very aromatic. 3. Bake potatoes in
3 cups milk juice and zest of 1 cilantro 3. Add tomatoes a 350°F oven until
1 cup heavy cream lemon 1 teaspoon chopped and tomato paste tender. Break apart
1/8 teaspoon nutmeg pickled chilies, basil and cook for a few and fry until crispy.
1/2 teaspoon black chopped 1 tablespoon chopped hours at low heat 4. Transfer sausages,
pepper salt and pepper, to parsley until the tomatoes eggs and potatoes
1 bay leaf taste salt and pepper, have developed to a serving plate.
FXSˊRXU to taste natural sweetness. Serve with warm
1/2 cup butter Mix all the ingredients 4. Season with cumin, baguette and butter.
1 cup grated Gruyère together. Season with 1. Put egg yolks, caraway seeds, salt
cheese salt and pepper. vinegar, water and and pepper. Set
salt, to taste mustard into a bowl aside to cool.
DQGZKLVNXQWLOˊXII\ 5. Before serving,
1. In a heavy Wildflour Salad 2. Slowly whisk in transfer tomato stew
bottomed pot, Serves 2 oil to emulsify the
combine milk, heavy dressing.
cream, nutmeg, black 30 grams arugula 3. Whisk in the rest of
pepper and bay leaf. 30 grams mesclun the ingredients and
Stir over low heat 30 grams romaine season with salt and
until scalding, being 2 tablespoons green pepper.
careful not to burn goddess dressing
the bottom. Set aside. to taste (recipe
2. In another pot, below) Shakshouka
make a roux by salt and pepper, Serves 6 to 8
FRPELQLQJWKHˊRXU to taste
and butter. Mix over 1/3 cup + 2 1/4 cup olive oil
ORZKHDWXQWLOˊRXULV tablespoons picked 1 kilo red onions,
cooked, being careful cooked chicken, roughly chopped
not to brown it too sliced 1/3 cup + 1
much. 1/2 avocado, sliced tablespoon
3. Slowly mix the 6 slices crispy bacon, chopped garlic
roux into the milk and roughly chopped salt, to taste
cream mixture until 2 tablespoons 1 kilo yellow bell
it thickens over low blue cheese pepper, roughly
heat. Remove from 2 tablespoons chopped
heat and add cheese. candied walnuts 1 kilo red bell pepper,
4. Season with salt. 1 to 2 poached eggs roughly chopped
Strain sauce to 1 kilo green bell
remove spices. Cool. 1. Put all the greens pepper, roughly
chopped

36 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


38 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3
Coffee is so much an intrinsic part of the Filipino heritage
that it’s a surprise how very little we really know about it
By TROY BARRIOS
Photography by OCS ALVAREZ | Styling by BEL ALVAREZ

I
f you are, like me, the kind of it!). But the truth is we don’t just where, like many hardy immigrants,
person who lives to drink coffee, grow barako, we are one of the few they thrived.
then this story is for you. It’s countries in the world that grows all Coffee adjusted so well to the
the story of the coffee of the four commercial varietals—arabica, local terroir that after half a century,
Philippines, from the beans to the robusta, excelsa and liberica. And by the 1800s, they were grown all
cup. There’s a rich history, a thriving we grow them in excellent quality over the country and we had become
and dynamic coffee culture. And all over the country. But, I’m getting the fourth largest producer of coffee
there’s a lot of irony as, for instance, I ahead of the story. in the world. The coffee trade made
chanced upon one morning at a small many people rich, most especially in
café. The sign behind the counter Lipa which became its main trading
said “Philippine coffee,” prompting A little bit of history point. The zenith came in the 1880s
the diner to say with a knowing We have to thank the friars for when an airborne fungus, Hemileia
look, “Ah, barako!” It’s a common bringing the first coffee plants over vastatrix, ruined all the coffee
misconception that all Philippine from Mexico. It’s said that some plantations in Indonesia, India and
coffee is barako, scientific name time in the 1740s, a Franciscan South America. Coffee prices in
caffea liberica. We’ve taken a kind priest arrived on a Manila galleon Lipa rose so high that the town was
of national pride in this drink, so full- with three ganta of coffee in his literally awash in cash, but as this
bodied and bracing that it’s name luggage. He was sent to Laguna windfall fell into the hands of only
literally means “wild boar.” The where he planted the first coffee a few families, this created a new
implication is that it’s a man’s drink, beans, and when he died, some of class of elite who became legendary
for the bold and the brave (subtext: his plants were taken to Barangay for their ostentatious display of
don’t drink it if you can’t handle Pinagtolongan in Lipa, Batangas wealth. There’s an anecdote about

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 39


how the wealthy would for home consumption.
order their servants to Barako, being considered
bring out sack upon unique to the Philippines,
sack of gold coins grown was sometimes offered
moldy and tarnished in to visitors (as a drink or
the storerooms, wash and as beans), a gesture of
polish these coins then Filipino hospitality.
spread them to sun-dry And then came
on the azoteas. This last Starbucks in 1997. The first
is most probably fanciful, store was a revelation to
but it gives you the flavor Manileños who had been
of the times. Of course it drinking instant coffee all
couldn’t last. In 1888, the their lives. Suddenly coffee
fungus epidemic finally had glamor. It was cool,
reached the Philippines fun and tasted good. And it
and destroyed the coffee was pricey, too. If anything,
plantations. They never Starbucks helped “teach”
really recovered. Filipinos how to drink
brewed coffee again. The
From instant to only Filipino brand that
Starbucks took advantage of the
You are what you drink newly-created market was
could be an adage for Figaro, which made its
how coffee is served in name selling Philippine
contemporary Philippines. coffee and opened
From the 1940s onwards, branches all over the
each generation has scene. And then, in 2013,
grown up enjoying coffee Third Wave coffee arrived
in a different way. My in Manila and the first
father, born during the café of that ilk that served
war, has spent his life only Philippine coffee was
drinking instant coffee Commune.
made popular by the
American G.I.s. My
generation was seduced
by American specialty
cafés like Starbucks and
Seattle’s Best. And now
there are the Third Wave
cafés with their emphasis
on craftsmanship, respect
for the bean, and an
almost cult-like devotion
to certain single origin
coffees.
But I digress. The
great coffee crash of the
1880s destroyed the coffee
industry, which didn’t
recover until the 1950s
with government support.
By this time, people
were drinking instant
coffee by the gallons, so
coffee farmers shifted to
planting robusta, which
is the main component of
instant coffee. The other
varietals were often left
growing in small farms and
backyards, occasionally
picked and hand-roasted

40 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


Kape: A Filipino Heritage

I
t’s almost impossible to in the mornings, around 4
be Filipino and not have AM, when coffee is poured
your life touched by coffee. and served with tapuy or
Blessed with fertile soils, just rice wine, as the family
the right tropical humidity gathers around the fire to
and climate, the country has exchange stories between the
been generous to the coffee generations.
plant. In Pampanga, coffee was
When you travel around traditionally brewed in a
the country, keep your eyes palayok or claypot with sugar
peeled for local beans. Coffee already added. The first brew
is grown in 22 provinces would be served to the men,
around the country. They and the considerably weaker
grow in the mountains, in second brew would be given
the foothills and in obscure
locations inhabited by
to the women. That was then.
Today’s women would never
Know Your Beans
When buying coffee for home ˊDYRUDQGMROWRIFDIIHLQH
indigenous communities. The stand for such nonsense. But use, it’s best to buy whole Some people prefer to buy
plots range in size from small the point is, coffee and its beans which stay fresh longer their beans green and will
family holdings, ancestral rituals are so much a part DQGNHHSWKHDURPDDQGˊDYRU roast them at home.
domains to larger farms. And of our national lives that intact for longer than the pre-
ground beans. It also helps to PEABERRY is a type
because so many of the trees you’d be hard pressed to find know your beans. of coffee bean (not
are off the beaten track, the a region without a unique DYDULHW\ WKDWLVD
beans don’t even find their coffee culture of its own. AR ABICA is naturally occurring
way to the markets. Because things have a one of the most mutation of the coffee cherry.
FRPPRQYDULHWLHV Ordinary coffee fruit contains
Just like the grapes grown way of coming full circle,
Usually grown in WZRVHHGVWKDWGHYHORS
to make wine, each location traditional coffee is finding the highlands, it ˊDWWHQHGVLGHVIDFLQJHDFK
has a unique terroir that its way from the provinces to is larger and more other. A peaberry coffee bean
influences the character the malls and urban centers. RYDOWKDQWKHUREXVWDDQG GRHVQRWˊDWWHQVRLWDSSHDUV
of the coffee grown there. KKK Coffee, a two-year- can reach twice the price of DVDQRYDOEHDQ3HDEHUU\FRIIHH
robusta in the commodities is a rarity that occurs in only
Mount Matutum, a volcano in old Filipino café, was born market. This is because RIKDUYHVWHGFRIIHHEXW
Mindanao, has rich, fertile soil when owner Brian Tenorio arabica has twice the sugar they require more labor. Since
perfect for its organic, shade- was advised by a consultant concentration of robusta, WKH\URDVWGLIIHUHQWO\IURPˊDW
grown arabica that produces that Filipinos “had to be JLYLQJLWPRUHˊDYRU EHDQVWKH\KDYHWREHSLFNHG
coffee with a full aroma and educated to drink coffee out and separated to ensure an
ROBUSTA is the HYHQURDVW6RPHSHRSOHSUHIHU
fruity complexity. In the the right way.” He said, smaller bean and peaberry coffee because they
Cordilleras, the high altitudes “Nagpantig ang tenga ko. The FDUULHVDELWWHUˊDYRU URDVWPRUHHYHQO\WKHURXQGHG
produce aromatic blends. right way? Did he mean that GXHWRKDYLQJWZLFH shape allowing the bean to
Wherever coffee grows, everything we’ve been doing as much caffeine as arabica. roll more easily in the roasting
7KLVEHDQJLYHVDNLFNWR\RXU chamber. The higher bean
you will find it enmeshed in Batangas is wrong?” The coffee. Most coffees are a GHQVLW\PDNHVIRUPRUHHIˉFLHQW
in the fabric of life. And I result is the café, which now blend of arabica and robusta, heat transfer during roasting,
don’t mean just the drinking has three locations, where to get that balance of aroma, resulting in a sweeter and more
of coffee. In Cavite and he serves local coffee made ˊDYRUIXOFRIIHH
Batangas, women handpick using traditional Filipino
and sort the coffee, nursing brewing methods, and using
their babies and gossiping as local beans sourced from
they do. Small children take northern Luzon. Brian calls so much that she invited Brian serving “Sulu-style” coffee
coffee berries to the market to this “comfort coffee.” “This is to do the coffee concoctions at made with beans grown in
exchange for candies. Tuition the coffee you drink at home. her one-time pop-up dinner their family plot in Sulu.
fees and household goods are It’s good old fashioned Pinoy- in Manila last summer. Imelda employs Tausug
paid for with money from the style coffee, not sosyal but it’s Another example is carpenters to build her café;
coffee harvest. certainly special.” This year, Imelda Ahalul-Dagus, an she buys beans from Tausug
In the mountains of he’s even experimented with OFW of Tausug ancestry, coffee farmers; and has
the Cordilleras, where the the menu, releasing Kapeng who was persuaded to Tausug baristas. In one fell
cold can penetrate into the Pandan which has coffee return to the Philippines swoop, the café brings their
marrow of your bones, coffee poured over pandan leaves, and revive her father’s old style of coffee to the larger
is kept brewing hot and ready and Kapeng Labuyo, with its coffee business in Jolo. community, empowering
for family and guests at any infusion of chili. KKK Coffee Choosing Zamboanga for her Tausug family. And
time of day. An important impressed visiting chef Yana her location, she opened there are many more stories
socialization ritual occurs Gilbuena of The Salo Series Dennis Coffee Garden like hers.

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 41


Back to
the Future
R
MYTHS & MISCONCEPTIONS
os Juan opened a lot of changes. In the early
Ros Juan’s advice for coffee drinkers
Commune in 2013 at days, the participants were
the very dawn of the just curious yuppies who
Third Wave. Her café wanted to take a day trip. But
had all the trappings of in recent years, coffee farm
ȕʕ Bitter coffee is strong coffee. Not
necessarily. What really makes coffee
a Third Wave establishment participants are mostly young
strong is the amount of caffeine it contains.
with one difference—she professionals with family-
Robusta, which has the most caffeine
only carried Philippine coffee owned farms who want to
content, is used in 3-in-1 coffees, so
beans. The house blend, learn how to make these
technically they provide “stronger” coffee
Commune, is a medium roast lands productive once more.
than a cup of brewed arabica.
blend of Benguet arabica and It’s very hopeful. Ros is also
robusta, perfect for espresso. involved in coffee training—
ȕʕ If the coffee has acidity, it’s old. There’s
pleasant acidity, and then there’s acidity
The lineup usually includes from training, to cupping
that’s assaulting to the senses. Some coffees
single-origin arabicas—from to post harvest production.
are simply more acidic than others. It’s a
Sagada, Mount Kitanglad, “There’s a real need to
matter of preference or taste.
Mount Matutum and educate the consumer,” she
Kapatagan from Davao—the says. But increasingly, too,
ȕʕ These beans are bad. Don’t be so quick
to blame the beans, if you’re not getting the
new buzzwords in Philippine training is happening at the
coffee you want. Coffee changes depending
coffee. farm and production levels—
on the kind of beans you choose, the type
Sourcing local beans essential to get consistently
of roast, and the preparation method.
takes up a lot of time, but good coffee.
For example, a medium roast bean might
Ros thinks it an essential “There are serious efforts
come out bitter if used in an espresso, but
part of her business. “We by small groups to develop
will have the right acidity when you use a
don’t have a super wide high-end quality coffee up to
pourover. Some coffees that are too bitter
selection, so it’s important specialty-grade coffee,” says
turn out milder with the hand drip method.
to maintain the quality of Robert Francisco of Boyd
I say, experiment before you blame the
our supply,” she says. When Coffee. The problem, says
beans.
checking and cupping Robert, is we are far behind
new single origin beans, in volume production, so
ȕʕ This coffee is rancid. It could be the roast.
A lighter roast produces more acidity, and
Ros keeps top of mind the far behind that we can’t be a
some roasters deliberately choose to roast
taste profile of the Filipino significant world producer.
light because they want the flavor profile
drinker. “The Pinoy But the solution might
of the beans to emerge. When you use light
flavor profile is still pretty be to make sure that the
roast, you can still get fruity flavor tones of
different,” she says, “and little coffee we produce be
the coffee bean. Dark roasts will start tasting
when I travel I notice this. exceptional. That will bring
the same. Taste some light roasts once in a
Our exposure is to Italian Philippine coffees into the
while to discover new flavors.
and French roasts, which niche and micro markets
are very dark. So to most where prices are higher.
ȕʕ All Philippine coffee is barako. Not at all.
The barako is a certain kind of bean with a
Pinoys, coffee is bitter. They But there are still a lot of
particular size and characteristics—and it’s
think bitter coffee is strong problems, from rejuvenating
just one of several varieties growing in the
coffee.” She feels our taste and replacing old trees
Philippines.
profile is closer to Europe to applying good farming
and Japan, where the coffee methods.
is not known for acidity. It’s going to be a long
“Just a bit of acidity, the nice haul before Philippine coffee stuff, just getting into coffee. At the end of the day,
kind,” Ros explains, “just achieves global status, the But they’re all very eager to coffee is such an intrinsic part
enough to make it feel juicy.” way it was in the 1800s. learn. A few are geeks who of our culture and heritage
Ros discovered Philippine But we’re growing, and will really check the coffee. and there’s just so much to
coffees as a high school we’re learning. Tastes are They want to see the beans, learn, there’s no need to be
student, when she would changing. Ros Juan shares, they want to smell the beans. pretentious. Enjoy coffee the
join the Figaro Coffee Farm “At Commune, we get a Their tastes have evolved. way you want to and grow
Tours in the early 2000s. mix of customers. A lot are Cold brews are really into it. That will be good
Over the years, she’s noticed transitioning from the sweet popular.” enough.

Commune Cafe + Bar, Durban Street, Poblacion, Makati City

42 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


Women in Coffee
Wherever in the world coffee is
grown, women make a difference.
They hand pick the cherries, they
sort the beans, they are at the heart
of coffee culture from the farm
to the cafés. Women in Coffee
is a program of the Philippine
chapter of the International
Women’s Coffee Alliance (IWCA)
to support women farmers and
coffee producers in the country. In
doing so, they give women a voice
and unearth the stories behind the
beans.
Like Princess, a woman from
Sulu who became a member in
2012. Princess is a social worker,
an entrepreneur and a coffee
farmer. In her village, she got the
community involved in planting
coffee in an area wrought with
terror and conflict. Because of
the coffee trees, incomes in her
community have grown from zero
in 2009 to P120,000 per year per
family in 2014. It’s a powerful story.
This year, Women in Coffee
launches the program Better
Barista, where underprivileged
women, mostly widows and girls
who did not finish school, are
trained to be baristas, a marketable
skill. The program also does
training at the farm levels, which
not only upgrades the quality of
coffee but also makes it possible to
ensure traceability of the coffee,
essential for branding single origin
beans.
Why focus on the woman?
United Nations statistics tell you
that women bring back 60% of
their income to the dining table, in
contrast to the men who give only
40%. Feed the woman and you feed
the family.

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 43


Spilling the beans
Our insider guide on where to find Philippine specialty coffee here and
abroad

MOUNT APO City; The Bottle Shop, Paseo


COCOTOS ESTATE de Magallanes, Makati; The
This single-origin coffee is Daily Jusa, 111A Maginhawa
made from pure mountain Street, Quezon City and 5
arabica grown on the family- West Capitol Drive, Kapitolyo,
owned farm located on the Pasig
slopes of Mount Apo, the
highest mountain in Mindanao. COFFEES FOR A
At 1,200 meters above sea CAUSE
level, the frost-free nights, dry This line of coffees is sourced
sunny days and fertile volcanic from small communities
soil come together to produce around the country through
this elegant, aromatic coffee. the assistance of the
Available only in small batches. Philippine Coffee Board Inc.
To order, call (0917) 836- (PCB) and the International
0888, email mace.coffee@ Women’s Coffee Alliance-
gmail.com Philippine chapter who work
closely with local farmers
TONG COFFEE to ensure quality. The line
This mom-and-pop includes Women in Coffee’s
distributor roasts coffee twice Benguet Arabica, the Peace
a week to ensure freshness. and Coffee Blend from Sulu,
The beans are sourced from and small batches of peaberry
all over the Philippines and coffee.
prepared using a family Available at Echostore, for
heirloom roasting process. list of branches visit www.
The lineup includes Casero echostore.ph
Blend with its smooth, fruity
notes, the dark and powerful KALSADA COFFEE
100% Batangas Barako, and Its name represents the
Cosmopolitan Blend, a full- journey of Filipino coffee,
bodied and very aromatic from seed to cup. Inspired by
dark roast. an ancient sepia photo that
Available at the Salcedo revealed Filipino coffee being
Saturday Market and the sold in Seattle in 1909—nearly
Legazpi Sunday Market 60 years before Starbucks
arrived in the Philippines—
GRUMPY NO MORE Carmel Laurino launched
If you don’t feel like brewing Kalsada Coffee in 2013. The
your own coffee at home, brand works with local
grab a few bottles of Grumpy farmers to bring specialty
No More. These handcrafted Philippine coffee to buyers
and bottled cold brew coffees outside the country. So far,
are made in small batches they’ve reached Seattle,
with a whole lot of love! Miami, Vancouver, Paris and
Available at Magpie Cafe, “everywhere in between.”
StrEAT FoodPark, 91 For more information, visit
Maginhawa Street, Quezon www.kalsada.org

44 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


 5HGFRIIHHFKHUULHVLQ%DJXLRUHDG\WREH
KDUYHVWHGIRU7RQ*&RIIHH  6HWWLQJXSIRU
DFRIIHHFXSSLQJ  .DW0XOLQJWDSDQJERDUG
GLUHFWRURIWKH,QWHUQDWLRQDO:RPHQȠV&RIIHH
$OOLDQFHDQGDFHUWLˉHG4JUDGHU TXDOLW\
JUDGHU KROGVDFXSSLQJVHVVLRQIRUFDIHRZQHUV
DQGFRIIHHHQWKXVLDVWVLQ'DYDR&LW\  JUHHQ
FRIIHHEHDQVDUHVRUWHGE\KDQG  DVDPSOHRI
*UXPS\1R0RUHERWWOHGFROGEUHZV

 &RXUWHV\RI7RQ*&RIIHH  3KRWRE\6KDLUD/XQD
DQG &RXUWHV\RI3DFLWD-XDQ,QWHUQDWLRQDO:RPHQȠV&RIIHH$OOLDQFH3KLOLSSLQHFKDSWHU  &RXUWHV\RI*UXPS\1R0RUH

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 45


No coffee snobs please Barako Coffee Jelly
Ȣ&RIIHHVKRXOGEHEODFNDVKHOOVWURQJDVGHDWK Serves 6
VZHHWDVORYHȣVD\VDQROG7XUNLVKSURYHUE%XW
WKHUHLVUHDOO\QRUHDVRQQRWWRHQMR\\RXUFRIIHH 4 cups strong brewed
DQ\ZD\\RXSOHDVH,Q&DYLWHIRUH[DPSOHWKHROG barako coffee
practice was to boil a kilo of ground coffee with a sugar, to taste
kilo of sugar in a palayok. Kept simmering all day, SDFNVXQˊDYRUHGJHODWLQ
the coffee would be ready for anyone in need of WDEOHVSRRQVFRIIHH
DMDYDMROW&KHI5REE\*RFRRI&\PDDQG*UHHQ  OLTXHXURSWLRQDO
3DVWXUHVVKDUHVKLVROGIDPLO\UHFLSHLQ7DDOZKLFK ZKLSSHGFUHDPIRUJDUQLVK
LQYROYHGPL[LQJUDZHJJV DQGVRPHWLPHVWKHHJJ Spiced Coffee
VKHOOV ZLWKWKHFRIIHHJURXQGVEHIRUHEUHZLQJ 1. In a pot, boil coffee. Serves 2
LQDYLQWDJHSHUFRODWRU:HVD\WRHDFKKLVRZQ Whisk in sugar and gelatin
coffee is friendly and democratic! Here are two XQWLOGLVVROYHG6WLULQ 1/4 cup ground coffee
HDV\ZD\VWRȢVSLFHXSȣ\RXUFRIIHHH[SHULHQFH coffee liqueur, of desired. caster sugar, to taste
2. 3RXULQWRDEDNLQJ FXSVFROGZDWHU
dish and chill until set. JURXQGFLQQDPRQ
3. &XWLQWRLQFKFXEHV FDUGDPRP
6HUYHLQDPXJDQGSRXU FORYHV
RYHUZKLSSHGFUHDP
1. 3XWFRIIHHDQGVXJDULQD
FRIIHHSRWDQGEUHZIRU
VHFRQGVRYHUORZKHDWRUXVH
D)UHQFKSUHVVLIDYDLODEOH
2. 3RXULQZDWHUVWLU
and simmer until foam
rises. Do not boil!
3. When foam has risen,
turn off heat and strain into
LQGLYLGXDOPXJV6SULQNOH
with cinnamon, cardamom
DQGFORYHVEHIRUHVHUYLQJ

46 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


FEATURE

Fiercely Filipino
Our local chefs dazzle with their superb innovations
inspired by Madrid Fusión Manila
By ANNE MARIE OZAETA

M
Photos courtesy of MADRID FUSIÓN MANILA

uch has already The theme, “Philippines- coconut’s importance in our dinuguan, reimagined as
been written and Spain: A 300 Year cooking. In a way, Madrid risotto. While these recipes
discussed about Gastronomic Journey,” set Fusión Manila challenged are very different from each
last April’s Madrid the tone for the presentations our local chefs to think about other, what they share is
Fusión Manila, of many of the local chefs, as Filipino cuisine in different a predilection for off-cuts,
regarded as the country’s they referenced much of the ways, within the context of offal and organ parts—quite
biggest culinary event of the history of Filipino cooking Spanish colonization. trendy among Western
year. A regional spin-off from vis-à-vis Spain’s colonial Here, we share three chefs, but something wholly
the world-renowned Madrid presence. What was evident recipes presented at (or familiar to most Filipinos.
Fusión, the Manila event throughout these talks is our inspired by) this seminal While these dishes may
brought in big names in the search for what is “native” event. J Gamboa of Cirkulo not be your typical home-
culinary world, like Elena in our cooking versus what creates a Filipino version cooked fare, they are meant
Arzak, Andoni Luis Aduriz, is “borrowed.” For instance, of a Spanish dish, using to showcase some of the
Quique Dacosta, Paco Claude Tayag of Bale Dutung sisig as its main component. most interesting ideas being
Roncero and Andre Chiang, worked on defining our Margarita Forés of Grace explored in contemporary
among others, along with adobo; Fernando Aracama Park and Lusso resurrects Philippine cooking. Daring
a contingent of local chefs of Aracama explored sour our use of roe and the as they may seem, they also
who all shared the concepts fruits as a distinctly Filipino seemingly obscure fish happen to be delicious, and
and inspirations behind their flavor base; while Myrna sperm. Juan Carlos de simple enough for home
cooking. Segismundo discussed the Terry gives us his take on cooks to replicate.

LIFE-GIVING SEAFOOD
Margarita Forés’
presentation intrigued with
the title “What Gives Life.”
And indeed, she focused
RQˉVKURHDQGVSHUP
that not only give life, but
LPSDUWGLVWLQFWˊDYRUVDQG
textures. According to Chef
0DUJDULWDVRPHSURYLQFLDO
FRRNVVLPSO\VDXW«LQRQLRQV
DQGWRPDWRHVZKLOHRWKHUV
GRDQDGRERYHUVLRQ6SHUP
(bagaybay) can be used
in kinilawZKLOHˉVKURH
(bihud LVRIWHQPDULQDWHG
in vinegar, garlic, calamansi
and salt, then deep fried.
2ULWFDQEHIHUPHQWHGLQWR
buro<RXFDQˉQGURHDQG
VSHUPDW)DUPHUȠV0DUNHW
HDUO\LQWKHPRUQLQJZKHQ
the large tuna are dressed.
Just order beforehand so the
YHQGRUFDQUHVHUYHVRPH
for you.

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 47


FEATURE

Tuna Roe and Sperm Sac DINUGUAN


REIMAGINED
Risotto, Pata Negros Juan Carlos de Terry
Recipe by Margarita Forés proudly carried
Serves 1 WKHˊDJIRUKLV
native Spain with
his talk on “Spain
TUNA ROE : as the Center and
ZKROHWXQDURH(bihod) Origin of Modern
8 cups vegetable stock Occidental Cuisine.”
1/4 cup butter But having called
the Philippines his
KRPHIRUPDQ\\HDUV
SEARED SPERM SAC : now, he has also
ZKROHVSHUPVDF(bagaybay) EHFRPHIDVFLQDWHG

Photo by JUAN CARLOS DE TERRY


VDOWDQGIUHVKO\FUDFNHGEODFN  with Philippine
pepper, to taste FRRNLQJˉQGLQJ
ZD\VRIUHLPDJLQLQJ
1 tablespoon butter RXUˊDYRUVDQG
ingredients in new
GARNISH : ways. Savor his
pata Negros latest brainchild, as
IUHVKguso (seaweed) KHWUDQVIRUPVRXU
native dinuguan,
UHGDPDUDQWK offal and all, into
extra virgin olive oil DUHˉQHG\HWVWLOO
hearty version of
1. In a pot, poach tuna roe in risotto.
YHJHWDEOHVWRFNIRUPLQXWHV
then allow to cool. Slice roe in
half, widthwise. Sauté in pan with Dinuguan Risotto Caldo ZKLWHRQLRQPLQFHG
EXWWHUURHVLGHGRZQ5HPRYHIURP Recipe by Juan Carlos de Terry 1/3 cup + 1 tablespoon pork liver,
pan then scrape cooked eggs and Serves 4 to 6 diced
transfer to a plate. Set aside. 3/4 cup native vinegar
2. &OHDQVSHUPVDFE\VOLFLQJRII 180 grams Arborio rice FXSVSRUNEURWK UHFLSHEHORZ
excess skin then cutting it 1/2-inch 2 cups dinuguan caldo (recipe below) 1 1/4 cups pork blood, sieved
thick, at a diagonal. Season sac with 1 1/2 cups dinuguan (recipe below) 1 cup coconut milk
salt and pepper. In a pan, add butter. salt, to taste ORQJJUHHQˉQJHUFKLOLHV
Once butter is brown, sear sac until 1 tablespoon butter 1 tablespoon rock salt
golden. Set aside. JUHHQˉQJHUFKLOLIRUJDUQLVK
3. 7RDVVHPEOHDUUDQJHULVRWWR 1. Sauté garlic in olive oil. Add onion,
(recipe below) on a plate. Top with 1. Cook Arborio rice in dinuguan caldo pork liver, and diced pork head and
URHDQGVSHUPVDF3ODFHDVOLFHRI XQWLOULFHLVDOPRVWDOGHQWH SRUNKHDUWIURPWKHEURWK UHFLSH
pata Negros and guso next to it. 2. Add dinuguanPL[WXUHRIPHDWDQG below).
*DUQLVKZLWKUHGDPDUDQWKDQGD sauce and continue to stir until cooked. 2. Pour in vinegar then let boil
drizzle of olive oil. 3. Season with salt and add butter. uncovered, without stirring until
Check consistency of rice. vinegar has evaporated.
RISOTTO : 4.6HUYHZLWKJUHHQˉQJHUFKLOLRQWRS 3. $GGSRUNEURWK&RYHUDQGVLPPHU
2 tablespoons butter IRUPLQXWHV
VPDOOZKLWHRQLRQFKRSSHG DINUGUAN CALDO : 4. Pour in sieved pork blood, stirring
100 grams 9-year-old Acquarello rice 2 kilos pork bones continuously to desired thickness.
WDEOHVSRRQVZKLWHZLQH 12 cups water 5. $GGIUHVKFRFRQXWPLONDQGˉQJHU
FXSVKRWVKULPSVWRFN 8 bay leaves FKLOLHVVLPPHULQJIRUPLQXWHV
VDOWDQGIUHVKO\FUDFNHGEODFN  40 peppercorns Season with rock salt.
pepper, to taste 2 onions, quartered
3 tablespoons salt PORK BROTH :
1. In a pan, sauté onion in butter NLORSRUNKHDG
until translucent. Add rice. Slightly In a stock pot, boil all ingredients for 1 SRUNKHDUW
WRDVWULFHIRUPLQXWHVWKHQGHJOD]H hour or until the bones extract to the 20 peppercorns
with white wine. broth. 4 bay leaves
2.3RXUDODGOHRIKRWVKULPSVWRFN 1 tablespoon rock salt
Stir with a wooden spoon. Turn down 3 cups water
WKHKHDWWRDVLPPHU.HHSDGGLQJ Dinuguan
ladlefuls of stock and stirring, Recipe by Juan Carlos de Terry Boil pork head and pork heart with
allowing the stock to be absorbed Serves 6 to 8 peppercorns, bay leaves and salt in
before adding the next. Continue ZDWHUXQWLOWHQGHU5HPRYHSRUNPHDW
until rice is soft but with a slight 3 tablespoons olive oil IURPEURWK'LFHPHDWDQGVHWDVLGH
bite. Season with salt and pepper. 1 1/2 tablespoons minced garlic Reserve broth.

48 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


SISIG SPANISH-STYLE
&KHI-*DPERDFORVHG
Madrid Fusión Manila’s
three-day conference with a
talk on “Nose-to-Tail Eating
in the Filipino-Spanish
0HQXȣ%HVWH[HPSOLI\LQJ
WKLVWKHPHLVKLVYHUVLRQRI
the Spanish Huevos Rotos
or Huevos Estrellados, fried
potatoes with runny eggs
and chorizo or morcilla.
While Spanish in origin, Chef
J brought a strong Filipino
FRPSRQHQWWRWKHGLVKZLWK
Cirkulo’s signature cabeza de
cerdoRUVLVLJPDGHIURPWKH
heads of suckling pigs. He
added a few drops of Pedro
;LPHQH]YLQHJDUWRFXWWKH
richness. Chef J advises
PL[LQJDOOWKHFRPSRQHQWV
together, with the eggs
serving as a binding
VDXFHb(QMR\LWDQ\WLPHRI
WKHGD\DVDOLJKWPHDORUD
fortifying snack.

Huevos Rotos
Recipe by J Gamboa
Serves 6 to 8 with salt and pepper. Bake the eggs. Place 2 drops of
LQDr)bRYHQIRUWR 3HGUR;LPHQH]YLQHJDURQ
SRUNKHDGSUHIHUDEO\IURP PLQXWHVRUXQWLOJROGHQ the eggs.
a suckling pig EURZQDQGFULVS\b6HWDVLGH 7. Sprinkle with chopped
salt and pepper, to taste DQGOHWFRROb2QFHFRRO SDUVOH\6HUYHLPPHGLDWHO\
WDEOHVSRRQbFRUQRLO UHPRYHPHDWDQGVNLQIURP
1 siling labuyo (bird’s eye the bones and chop into
 FKLOL VOLFHG 1/2-inch cubes. Shoestring Potatoes
1 small onion, minced 2. In a sauté pan, heat oil Serves 3 to 4
WDEOHVSRRQVbVR\VDXFH and sweat chili and onion
2 tablespoons calamansi IRUPLQXWHVRUXQWLOVRIW FRUQRLOIRUGHHSIU\LQJ
juice 3. Add cooked pork head 2 large potatoes, julienned
HJJVFRRNHGIRUKRXUDW DQGVDXW«IRUPLQXWHV on a mandolin
 r&LQDWKHUPDO  b'HJOD]HZLWKVR\VDXFH salt and pepper, to taste
 FLUFXODWRU RUXVHSRDFKHG and calamansiMXLFHb6HDVRQ
eggs) with salt and pepper. Set 1. In a deep-sided pot or
Pedro Ximenez vinegar, aside. ZRNKHDWFRUQRLOWRr&
to taste (or use balsamic 5.7RDVVHPEOHWKHGLVK 2. Carefully drop potatoes
vinegar) in a serving bowl, create a into the hot oil and cook
FKRSSHGSDUVOH\IRUJDUQLVK “nest” with the shoestring XQWLOFULVSWRPLQXWHV
potatoes. Crack the 2 eggs 3. 'UDLQSRWDWRHVRQSDSHU
1. Place pork head on a in the center of the nest. towels. Season with salt and
roasting pan, and season 6. Spoon pork sisig around pepper.

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 49


FEATURE

Moon over Makapunô


This crazy coconut that’s brought to us by folk belief, science and faith
By JENNY B. ORILLOS 1st Prize, Doreen G. Fernandez Food Writing Award 2015

W
Photography by PAUL DEL ROSARIO | Styling by TINA CONCEPCION DIAZ

hen nature Before the 1960s, only Treasured Home Recipes, na (when it’s opened),” says
decided to a handful of coconut trees Julia A. Iturralde of Quiapo a vendor at Nepa Q-Mart,
play a trick on produced makapunô, recalls, in the days before the whose child took home
the farmer, it mostly from plantations in war, how her aunt Eriberta the day’s nut. In Quinta,
pulled off the Cavite, Laguna, Batangas, used to prepare sweetened Farmer’s, Paco and Libertad,
makapunô. From the outside, Quezon, Pangasinan, Albay makapunô the day before the meanwhile, there’s only niyog
it looks just like an ordinary and Davao. According to feast of the Black Nazarene. available.
coconut. But crack it open and the Philippine Coconut The gelatinous part was A farmer can identify
you’ll find the coconut water Authority-Albay Research poured into a bowl, while makapunô by feel from its
replaced by nut meat that fills Center, makapunô was the pulp was grated into heavy weight. When he
almost the entire shell. The conventionally propagated thin strips then mixed with shakes and taps on the nut,
core is semi-liquid, giving way by planting kabuwíg nuts, it. It was boiled in a sugar- it does not produce sound
to curd-like, gelatinous meat wherein seedlings from non- water syrup until the syrup because it’s filled with meat.
and its outer portion is soft makapunô nuts are planted thickened. The preserves Some makapunô nuts,
and tender white meat. This together with a makapunô nut were stored in beautiful glass however, will slosh as though
is how it got its name—punô is (kabuwíg means “from the jars with decorative covers. filled with thick liquid. I was
Tagalog for “filled.” same bunch”). In another Quiapo home, once tempted to shake all the
This unusual type of Trees that could be the favored dessert was fruit coconuts in a stall to find the
coconut seems to be alluded counted on to produce salad and inuhog na makapunô elusive nut, but the vendors
to in a Hiligaynon proverb in makapunô nuts were called (the term inuhog refers to might think I’d lost my mind.
Damiana Eugenio’s Philippine “segurado,” documents the makapunô’s mucous-like In the city, processed
Folk Literature: the Philippine Journal for texture). makapunô is available—in
Agriculture (1937). To The Iturralde makapunô strips or balls in syrup, candy,
Sa isa kadahug nga lubi ensure that a tree would bear belongs to an era when homes pastillas, tarts. But where
(In one bunch of coconuts) makapunô, some farmers still made their own bottled to find fresh makapunô in
may isa gid nga buang. practiced a coconut planting delicacies and the nuts were the middle of October? I
(there is one that is defective.) ritual: the planter cooked accessible in the palengke. found my answer in Santo
rice until very soft then kept Cookbooks from the 1950s to Cristo, Divisoria where men
While the Tagalog word his mouth full of this rice as the 1970s recorded makapunô haul sacks of coconuts into
for “defect” is generally used he planted the germinated recipes, showing its equal warehouses. An old man said
to refer to misfits of the coconut, writes Emma Yule of importance with ordinary I had to wait until February.
human population, in this U.P. Los Baños. coconut in our culinary “Dadagsa ang makapunô
case being “defective,” or at Makapunô does not culture. kapag December,” advised a
least different, is what sets germinate on its own, so The Manila Chronicle kind lady, the season when the
makapunô apart from the rest everything was left to chance Recipe Books include Iturraldes made sweetened
of the coconut family. until two scientists found a Macapuno Upside-Down makapunô.
Folk wisdom from the solution. Dr. Emerita V. de Cake, macaroons and Science has made it
Bikol region also likens Guzman developed the first mazapan. Makapunô has the possible to produce makapunô
coconuts to the moon, that makapunô embryo culture subtle flavor of fresh coconut. commercially, so we’ll
celestial body many have in the 1960s which produced It’s often cooked with pandan always have makapunô in ice
associated with lunacy: makapunô seedlings from or flavored with dayap, as in cream, cakes, pies and candy.
tissue culture. In the 1990s, Pat Limjuco Dayrit’s Suspiros Makapunô completes our halo-
Tiktikan, buksan, bulan. Erlinda P. Rillo developed a de Macapuno in Favorite halo. Served with ube and leche
(Hit with a bolo, open, and cloning protocol which yields Filipino Recipes. Nora Daza flan, it’s a combination Quijano
you find the moon.) up to 98% makapunô nuts. adds anise to the preserves in de Manila calls “proletarian
Because of the uncertainty Macapuno Chiffon Cake (Let’s festive fare.”
This proverb becomes of producing makapunô, Cook with Nora). I’ll consider myself lucky
even more significant to it is considered a precious Looking for makapunô in the next time I come across this
the makapunô (also spelled ingredient in many Philippine Manila these days is a gamble. misfit coconut. It’s a culinary
macapuno) which, because delicacies. The cook will pay “Minsan lang masuwerteng heritage made possible by folk
of its oddity, is also known as ten times more for makapunô mayroon,” Arranque Market belief, science and faith. To defy
mutant coconut or coconut than for an ordinary coconut. vendors say. “Nalalaman the norm is makapunô’s sweetest
sport. In her cookbook lang namin kapag nabiyak gift.

50 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


Food Writing
at its Best
Now on its 12th year, the Doreen
G. Fernandez Food Writing
Award is the only one of its kind
in the country. It is dedicated
to the memory of pioneering
food anthropologist and dean
of Philippine food columnists,
Doreen Gamboa Fernandez. Its
objective is to inspire research
into Philippine culinary culture
and to sustain a pool of increas-
ing new talents in food literature
and food journalism.

Winners 2014
Inspired by the theme of “coco-
QXWȣ-HQQ\2ULOORVZRQˉUVWSUL]H
at last year’s Doreen G. Fernan-
dez Food Writing Award. Previ-
ously, she placed second in 2008
and 2011. She has been writing
on food for the past ten years for
various publications, includ-
ing FOOD Magazine. Her latest
endeavor is National Bookstore
bestselling book, Panaderia: Phil-
ippine Bread, Biscuit, and Bakery
Traditions, co-authored with Amy
A. Uy and published by Anvil
Publishing.
Elmer Nocheseda won second
place with “Puso sa Lukay” while
C. Horatius Mosquera took third
place with his essay “The Sweet
Nectar of Life.” Lolita Lacuesta,
Ruby Cariño and Noelle de Jesus
won honorable mentions.

Call for entries: Herbs


Aspiring food writers are encour-
aged to submit entries to this
year’s DGF Food Writing Award
with the topic of “herbs.” Dead-
line for submission is October
11, 2015. The entry should be an
essay in English of not less than
4,500 characters or more than
5,000 characters (800 words),
double-spaced. Judging con-
tinues to be based on content
(50%), research (30%) and style
(20%).
Entries should be emailed to
dgfawards@yahoo.com.ph with
DVHSDUDWHˉOHFRQWDLQLQJWKH
author’s real name, pen name,
contact numbers, address and a
brief bionote. Each contestant
may submit up to two different
entries, each with a different pen
name.

For more information, visit Doreen


Gamboa Fernandez Food Writing
Award on Facebook.

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 51


EVERYDAY DINNERS

Cooking
Your Way
Towards
Health
Healthy, low-calorie food
can be delicious, satisfying,
and easy to prepare.
Recipes and styling by NANCY DIZON-EDRALIN
Photography by PAULO VALENZUELA
Text by GINNY MATA

I
n a city rife with fast food, all-you-can-eat buffets, and endless
options for all manner of fattening things, it can be challenging
to try to eat more healthfully. But as prominent cookbook author
Mark Bittman will say, “cooking solves everything.” It’s best to
cook your own food, so you can control exactly what goes into
it. The freshness and quality of the ingredients you use is also
important. If possible, try to source your vegetables directly from
the organic farms that produce them, which also deliver directly
to your doorstep (such as Down To Earth, Healthy Carabao, etc.),
or from stores that specialize in selling organic produce like Echo
Store, Ritual Shop and Café, Got Heart Foundation. There are also
online grocery stores from which you can order organic goods,
including The Healthy Grocery, The Green Grocer and Paleo
Manila. For more information, go to onthegreenlist.com

52 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


Stuffed Eggplants
with Mushrooms
Eggplants are low in calories,
at just 35 calories per cup.
They have no fat, and their
KLJKˉEHUFRQWHQWFDQKHOS
you feel full. But they can
EHUDWKHURLO\ZKHQWKH\
are fried, so we’ve opted
WRSDUWLDOO\EDNHWKHP
here as “shells” instead.
%HVLGHVEHLQJKHDOWKLHUDQG
OHVVFDORULˉFWKHVHEDNHG
eggplant shells also have a
ZRQGHUIXOO\VPRN\ˊDYRUWKDW
pairs very well with cheese,
PXVKURRPVDQGIUHVKEDVLO
Instead of eggplants, zucchini
RUUHGEHOOSHSSHUFDQEH
XVHGb$QGLQSODFHRIULFRWWD
cheese, you can also use
\RJXUWVRXUFUHDPFRWWDJH
FKHHVHRUPDULQDUDVDXFH

180
CALORIES
per
serving

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 53


EVERYDAY DINNERS

480
CALORIES
per
serving

Prawns in Red Curry Sauce


&RFRQXWPLONRIWHQJHWVDEDGUDSIRUEHLQJKLJKLQ
FKROHVWHUROEXWQHZVWXGLHVKDYHVKRZQWKDWIRRGVWKDW
DUHKLJKLQIDWKDYHOLWWOHEHDULQJRQRQHȠVFKROHVWHURO
OHYHOVDVORQJDVWKH\DUHHDWHQLQPRGHUDWLRQ%XWLI\RX
want to lessen the calories to this dish, just replace the
SUDZQVZLWKFKLFNHQDQGWKHFRFRQXWPLONZLWK\RJXUW
These prawns need to poached in the curry sauce gently,
RYHUORZWRPHGLXPKHDWEHFDXVHWKH\EHFRPHWRXJK
DQGUXEEHU\ZKHQWKH\DUHRYHUFRRNHG$IWHUGHYHLQLQJ
DQGEXWWHUˊ\LQJ\RXFDQUXEDOLWWOHVDOWDQGSHSSHURQ
the inside of each prawns. This is to ensure that all the
prawns are seasoned properly.

54 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


170
CALORIES
per
serving

Chicken Lettuce Wraps


These healthy low-calorie
wraps are very versatile: the
EUHDVWPHDWKHUHDFWVDVD
EODQNVODWHZKLFKWDNHVLQ
WKHˊDYRUVRILWVPDULQDGH
7KHGLVKȠVDFFRPSDQLPHQWV
FXFXPEHUJUHHQRQLRQV DUH
DOVRLQWHUFKDQJHDEOHZLWK
RWKHUFUXFLIHURXVYHJHWDEOHV
WKDW\RXPLJKWKDYHRQ
KDQGOLNHFDUURWVRUMLFDPD
depending on your chosen
ˊDYRUSURˉOH)RU$VLDQ
VR\EDVHGˊDYRULWȠVEHVWWR
go with green onions and
FXFXPEHUVIRUPRUH:HVWHUQ
ˊDYRUVOLNHKRQH\PXVWDUG
)XMLDSSOHVZRXOGEHJRRGDV
well. You can also use thinly
VOLFHGEHHIWHQGHUORLQRU
VOLFHGWRIXLQVWHDGRIFKLFNHQ

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 55


EVERYDAY DINNERS

280
CALORIES
per
serving

Beef Tenderloin Steaks


with Red Wine Sauce
)RUWKRVHRQDKLJKSURWHLQGLHW
HDWLQJEHHILVGHULJXHXU,WLVEHVWWR
SDQVHDUWKHEHHIWHQGHUORLQVWKHQ
place in the oven for the desired
GRQHQHVV3DQVHDULQJWKHPHDW
NHHSVLWPRLVWDQGWHQGHUb<RXFDQ
VHUYHWKLVZLWKPDVKHGSRWDWRHV
URDVWHGPL[HGYHJHWDEOHVVWHDPHG
YHJHWDEOHVRUZLWK\RXUIDYRULWHVDODG
7KHUHVLGXHOHIWDWWKHERWWRPRI
WKHSDQDIWHUWKHVWHDNVKDYHEHHQ
VHDUHGLVOLTXLGJROG7KHVHDUHXPDPL
ˊDYRUERPEVWKDWQHHGRQO\WREH
GHJOD]HGZLWKZLQHDQGEHHIVWRFN
WKHQVLPPHUHGGRZQWRPDNHDULFKO\
nuanced jus.

56 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


150
CALORIES
per Baked Fish Tacos with Mango Salsa
serving ,QDQ\KHDOWK\GLHWSODQLQFOXGLQJˉVKLV
DOZD\VDJLYHQ XQOHVV\RXȠUHDYHJHWDULDQ 
7RNHHSWKHˉVKˉOOHWIURPGU\LQJRXWLQ
WKHRYHQZKLOHLWȠVEDNLQJ\RXPD\DOVR
FKRRVHWRFRRNLWLQHQSDSLOORWHRUVHDOHG
LQSDUFKPHQWSDSHURUDOXPLQXPIRLOVR
that it gently poaches in its own juices,
WRJHWKHUZLWKWKHVSLFHVDQGWKHKHUEV
<RXFDQXVHDQ\ZKLWHˉVK FUHDPGRU\
FREEOHURUVROH IRUWKLVUHFLSHb<RXFDQDOVR
VXEVWLWXWHPDQJRZLWKDYRFDGRRUSRPHOR

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 57


EVERYDAY DINNERS

Stuffed Eggplants peeled, deveined, 0L[ZHOOXQWLOLWGLVVROYHV Baked Fish Tacos


with Mushrooms heads removed, tail on 3. +HDWDVNLOOHWRYHUPHGLXP with Mango Salsa
Serves 4 1 teaspoon lime juice KLJKKHDW$GGFDQRODRLODQG Serves 4
3 tablespoons fresh cilantro, VZLUOSDQWRFRDW$GGFKLFNHQ
6 medium-sized eggplants coarsely chopped VOLFHVDQGFRRNPLQXWHV ZKLWHˉVKˉOOHWVRXQFHV 
3 tablespoons olive oil, 1 tablespoon spring on each side or until done. each, like cobbler, cod, mahi-
plus extra for drizzling onion, chopped 5HPRYHFKLFNHQIURPWKH mahi, snapper, bass, trout
kosher salt and black 4 stems cilantro, for garnish pan and transfer to a plate. 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
pepper, to taste 4.,QWKHVDPHSDQDGGWKH 1/2 teaspoon salt
1 medium onion, 1. Heat olive oil in a large PDULQDGHPL[WXUHVLPPHU 1 teaspoon ground
 ˉQHO\FKRSSHG VNLOOHWWKHQDGGRQLRQDQG and reduce to half, then black pepper
JDUOLFFORYHVˉQHO\FKRSSHG JDUOLF0L[LQUHGFXUU\SDVWH WUDQVIHUWRDVHUYLQJERZO 1 tablespoon Spanish paprika
12 cherry tomatoes, cut in half FRFRQXWPLONFKLFNHQVWRFN 5. To plate, top each lettuce 1 tablespoon garlic, minced
1 cup white button mushrooms, ˉVKVDXFHDQGEULQJWRDERLO OHDIZLWKWRWDEOHVSRRQV 1 tablespoon fresh
coarsely chopped 2. $GGSUDZQVDQGOLPHMXLFH ULFHFKLFNHQVOLFHVDQG parsley, chopped
1 cup basil leaves, chopped &RRNIRUWRPLQXWHVRU FXFXPEHUVOLFHV6SULQNOH 4 small pitas
1 cup cottage cheese XQWLOWKHSUDZQVDUHFRRNHG ZLWKVHVDPHVHHGVDQG fresh cilantro, for garnish
1 cup mozzarella 3. 6SULQNOHZLWKFKRSSHG green onions. Serve with
cheese, shredded cilantro and spring onion. sauce on the side. MANGO SALSA:
Garnish with cilantro 1 ripe mango, large,
1. 3UHKHDWRYHQWRr) VWHPV6HUYHRYHUEDVPDWL Beef Tenderloin Steaks peeled, pitted, diced
2. Slice eggplants in half MDVPLQHRUSODLQULFH with Red Wine Sauce 1/2 red bell pepper, diced
OHQJWKZLVHOHDYLQJWKHVWHP Serves 4 2 tablespoons red
intact. Scoop out half of Spicy Chicken onion, chopped
WKHHJJSODQWˊHVKZLWKD Lettuce Wraps 2 teaspoons coarsely 2 tablespoons fresh cilantro,
teaspoon and set aside. Brush Serves 4 ground black pepper chopped, plus
the eggplants with olive oil. 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt more for garnish
Season with salt and pepper. MARINADE: 4 garlic cloves, minced 1 jalapeño pepper,
Place the eggplants in a 5 tablespoons low 4 beef tenderloin steaks, seeded, minced
EDNLQJGLVK&RYHUZLWKIRLODQG sodium soy sauce 4 to 5 ounces and 1-inch 2 tablespoons lime juice
EDNHIRUWRPLQXWHV 5 tablespoons dark thick each, trimmed 1 tablespoon lemon juice
3.:KLOHZDLWLQJKHDWWKH brown sugar 1 teaspoon canola oil salt and ground black
UHPDLQLQJROLYHRLOLQDQRQ 3 tablespoons dark sesame oil 1/4 cup red wine pepper, to taste
VWLFNSDQ$GGRQLRQDQGFRRN 2 tablespoons garlic, minced 1/4 cup beef stock
until soft. Chop the eggplant 1/2 teaspoon ground 2 tablespoons fresh 1. 3UHKHDWRYHQWRr)
ˊHVKDQGDGGLWWRWKHSDQ black pepper thyme, chopped 2. $UUDQJHˉVKˉOOHWVLQD
$GGJDUOLFDQGWRPDWRHV 1 tablespoon red pepper EDNLQJGLVKDQGGUL]]OHZLWK
DQGFRRNIRUWRPLQXWHV  ˊDNHVRUWRWDVWH 1. ,QDVPDOOERZOFRPELQH olive oil. Season with salt,
$GGPXVKURRPVDQGEDVLO EODFNSHSSHUVDOWDQG EODFNSHSSHUDQGSDSULND
Season with salt and pepper. CHICKEN: JDUOLF5XEHYHQO\RYHU 6SULQNOHZLWKJDUOLFDQGSDUVOH\
4. 5HPRYHHJJSODQWVKHOOV 1 teaspoon cornstarch WHQGHUORLQVWHDNV 3. 3ODFHˉVKLQWKHSUHKHDWHG
IURPWKHRYHQ$GGPXVKURRP sugar, to taste 2. +HDWDQRQVWLFNSDQRYHU RYHQDQGEDNHIRUWR
PL[WXUHWRWKHHJJSODQWV 6 chicken breast halves, PHGLXPKLJKKHDWDGGRLO PLQXWHVRUXQWLOFRRNHG
shells. Top with cottage cheese boneless, skinless, sliced and spread evenly on pan. 4. 7RPDNHWKHVDOVDLQDODUJH
DQGPR]]DUHOODFKHHVH 2 tablespoons canola oil 3ODFHVWHDNVLQWKHVNLOOHWDQG ERZOFRPELQHPDQJRUHGEHOO
5. 5HWXUQWRRYHQDQGEDNH 12 Bibb lettuce leaves UHGXFHKHDW6HDUDQGFRRN pepper, red onion, cilantro and
IRUWRPLQXWHVXQWLO 2 cups Jasmine rice, cooked HDFKVLGHIRUWRPLQXWHV MDODSH³RSHSSHU$GGOLPHMXLFH
WKHFKHHVHLVPHOWHG 2 English cucumbers, or until desired doneness. DQGOHPRQMXLFHDQGWRVVZHOO
sliced round 5HPRYHVWHDNVIURPSDQ Season with salt and pepper.
Prawns 2 tablespoons toasted 3. $GGZLQHDQGEHHI Refrigerate until ready to serve.
in Red Curry Sauce sesame seeds VWRFNWRSDQ6LPPHU 5. 3XWˉVKˉOOHWRQSLWDEUHDG
Serves 4 6 stalks green onions, sliced until reduced to half. 7RSWKHˉVKZLWKPDQJR
1/2 inch diagonally 4. 7UDQVIHUVWHDNVWRDVHUYLQJ salsa or serve on the side.
3 tablespoons olive oil plate. Drizzle with sauce. Garnish with cilantro.
2 tablespoons onion, chopped 1. ,QDPHGLXPERZOFRPELQH 6SULQNOHHDFKVWHDNZLWKIUHVK
2 tablespoons garlic, minced WKHPDULQDGHLQJUHGLHQWV WK\PH6HUYHZLWKURDVWHG
1 tablespoon Thai red curry $GGWKHFKLFNHQVOLFHVWRWKH PDUEOHGSRWDWRHVDQGVWHDPHG
paste, or as needed PDULQDGHDQGUHIULJHUDWHIRU asparagus, if desired.
1 cup coconut milk DQKRXU$IWHUKRXUUHPRYH
1/4 cup chicken stock FKLFNHQIURPWKHPDULQDGH
WHDVSRRQV7KDLˉVK 6HWDVLGHWKHPDULQDGH
sauce (nam pla) 2. $GGFRUQVWDUFKDQGVXJDU
1 kilo large prawns, WRWKHUHVHUYHGPDULQDGH

58 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


COOK IT 5 WAYS

60
FAT IS

IN
Good oils are the comeback kids that
deserve a big fat welcome in our kitchen
Story, recipes and styling by TINA CONCEPCION DIAZ

Photography by PAUL DEL ROSARIO

L
ong regarded as the bane of dieters and walls. When they say fats raise cholesterol
health buffs, fats in the form of butter levels, it’s not entirely a clear picture of what’s
and all sorts of oils have been sadly really happening inside. A review of several
banished from the table and pantry, to studies has established no direct link between
the great decline of flavorful food. saturated fat and heart disease.
But as it turns out, that smidgen of butter On the other hand, this finding isn’t about
you sneakily spread on your toast this to give anyone license to splurge on fats. Too
morning could be good for you after all. More much of anything always has a negative impact
importantly, it’s no longer the enemy it was on the body. Ultimately, it’s what we eat and
made out to be for the longest time. how much of it we consume that affects the
Saturated fats which butter, coconut oil state of our health.
and meats have plenty of, are found in studies It’s high time we welcome back our sorely
to raise the body’s levels of good cholesterol missed fats in all their pudgy glory and with
(HDL) and even change the quality of bad them, all the goodness and flavor that hang
cholesterol (LDL) from small, dense LDL that around them.
can cause heart disease, to large LDL particles Enjoy them to the fullest in moderate and
that have a hard time penetrating the artery appropriate amounts.
COOK IT 5 WAYS

Breakfast Granola
Enjoy a bag of nutritious granola anywhere and any time
by making this easy, just-dump-everything-on-a-tray
recipe, complete with crunchy nuts, fruits, honey, and
very healthy virgin coconut oil. This saturated fat is rich
in lauric acid, a fatty acid that has antibacterial properties
and helps improve the body’s cholesterol quality. Because
it’s more than 90% saturated, it can withstand high
temperatures and stays stable at room temperature for
months without going rancid. Use it for baking, frying or
as a salad oil.

62 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


Pasta with Browned Butter and Sage
6DYRUWKHVZHHWQXWW\ˊDYRURIEXWWHUZKHQXVHGDVJKHHZKLFK
KDVEHHQFODULˉHGDQGLWVPLONVROLGVFRRNHGWRJROGHQELWV(QMR\
its goodness knowing that butter is rich in fat-soluble vitamins like
vitamins A, E and vitamin K2 which studies have found to help in
calcium metabolism. It’s also a good source of butyrate, a fatty acid
ZKLFKKDVDQWLLQˊDPPDWRU\SURSHUWLHVEHQHˉFLDOWRWKHGLJHVWLYH
system.

FOOD | 2 0 1 5 I s s u e 23 63
COOK IT 5 WAYS

Marble Potato Casserole


Everything is made better with bacon, and the same
goes for its rendered oil. This animal fat smells
VRJRRGDQGLPSDUWVVRPXFKˊDYRUWRDGLVKWKDW
just a small amount is enough to heighten one’s
gustatory delight. Contrary to animal fat being
purely saturated, it turns out that grain-fed animals
provide oils that also possess monounsaturated fats,
both of which are resistant to high heat and don’t
cause fat to oxidize and turn toxic.

64 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


Spring Roll Salad
with Peanut Sauce
Put a little Asian twist to your
salad with just a douse of
peanut oil. Because it is high
in polyunsaturated fats which
are sensitive to heat, peanut
oil is best used cold in salads
DVDJUHDWˊDYRUHQKDQFHU
added at the end of cooking
or just for a quick stir-fry to
preserve its composition.

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 65


COOK IT 5 WAYS

Lemon Olive Oil Cake


Take your olive oil out of its savory
comfort zone and see how it
brings out the vibrant fruity notes
in your cake. Long known for its
KHDOWKEHQHˉWVDQGFRQVLGHUHGD
ˉ[WXUHLQ0HGLWHUUDQHDQFXLVLQH
olive oil teems with anitoxidants
that studies show may help lower
bad cholesterol and raise the level
of good cholesterol.

66 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


Breakfast Pasta with Marble Potato Spring Roll Salad Lemon Olive
Granola Browned Butter Casserole with Peanut Oil Cake
Serves 6 to 8 and Sage Serves 4 Sauce Serves 6 to 8
Serves 3 to 4 Serves 6 to 8
3 cups old-fashioned JUDPVEDFRQVOLFHV FXSVDOOSXUSRVH
oats FXSXQVDOWHGEXWWHU FXSZDWHU SALAD:  ˊRXU
1 cup sliced almonds IUHVKVDJHOHDYHV JUDPVPDUEOH  ODUJHWXUQLSSHHOHG FXSJURXQG 
FXSVXQˊRZHUVHHGV  VOLFHGLQWRWKLQVWULSV  SRWDWRHVULQVHG  and sliced into thin  DOPRQGVOLJKWO\ 
zest of 1 lemon  UHVHUYHVRPH   VFUXEEHGDQGKDOYHG  VWULSV toasted
FXSYLUJLQFRFRQXW  ZKROHOHDYHVIRU  KHDGEURFFROLDERXW ODUJHFDUURWSHHOHG WHDVSRRQEDNLQJ
oil  JDUQLVK 2 cups and sliced into thin soda
6 tablespoons honey FXSVXQGULHG  EURFFROLˊRUHWVSOXV  VWULSV WHDVSRRQEDNLQJ
1/4 teaspoon salt  WRPDWRHVVRDNHGLQ  WHQGHUVWHPV ODUJHFXFXPEHU   SRZGHU
FXSGDUNUDLVLQV  ROLYHRLOVOLFHG FXSFRRNLQJFUHDP  SHHOHGVHHGHGDQG 3/4 teaspoon salt
FXSGULHG FXSVXQˊRZHUVHHGV FXSVJUDWHGFKHGGDU  VOLFHGLQWRWKLQVWULSV 1/2 cup olive oil
FUDQEHUULHVRU  juice of 1 lemon  FKHHVHUHVHUYHFXSV NLORODUJHVKULPSV FXSDOOSXUSRVH
 FUDLVLQV VDOWDQGSHSSHUWRWDVWH  IRUWRSSLQJ  VWHDPHGSHHOHG  FUHDP
JUDPVVSDJKHWWL VDOWDQGSHSSHUWRWDVWH  GHYHLQHGKHDGV WDEOHVSRRQVIUHVK
1. Preheat oven to 325°F.  QRRGOHVFRRNHG  UHPRYHGDQGKDOYHG lemon juice
Line a baking tray with FXSJUDWHG  1. In a large pot, heat  OHQJWKZLVH zest of 1 lemon
non-stick parchment  3DUPHVDQ  bacon slices until they EXQFKURPDLQHOHDYHV ODUJHHJJV
paper. cheese release their fat. Cook  VOLFHGLQWRVWULSV FXSVVXJDU
2. Spread oats, almonds, until golden. Remove FXSFDQQHGPDQGDULQ FRQIHFWLRQHUVȠVXJDU
VXQˊRZHUVHHGVDQG 1. In a large pan, melt bacon from pot and  RUDQJHVHJPHQWV  IRUGXVWLQJ
lemon zest on prepared butter over low heat slice into bits. Set aside.  GUDLQHG IUHVKIUXLWVRIFKRLFH
tray. without stirring, until Preheat oven to 375°F.
3. In a measuring cup, it stops sizzling and 2. In the same pot, PEANUT SAUCE: 1. Preheat oven to
whisk coconut oil, honey remaining solids turn drain some of the bacon WDEOHVSRRQFUHDP\ 300°F. Line an 8 or
and salt vigorously with light golden brown. fat, leaving about 4  SHDQXWEXWWHU 9-inch round baking pan
a fork to lightly thicken 2. Add sage, sundried tablespoons of drippings 2 tablespoons honey with non-stick baking
it. Then drizzle over oats, WRPDWRHVDQGVXQˊRZHU in the pot. Add water 5 tablespoons hoisin paper and lightly oil the
seeds and nuts. Gently seeds. Pour in lemon and potatoes. Cover and sauce sides of the pan.
toss with two spoons or juice, season with salt cook over medium heat FXSJUHHQOHPRQ 2. ,QDERZOZKLVNˊRXU
a spatula. and pepper. Turn off for 10 minutes. juice almonds, baking soda,
4. Bake in preheated heat. 3. Add broccoli. Cover 1/4 cup peanut oil baking powder and salt.
oven for 20 minutes. 3. To the pan, add and cook for another 5 Set aside.
Remove from oven, stir cooked spaghetti, Toss minutes, then uncover 1. Place salad 3. Combine olive oil,
and gently toss the oats with Parmesan cheese. and let water evaporate, ingredients in a large cream, lemon juice, zest
and nuts to prevent Garnish with sage leaves leaving just the oil. bowl, cover with plastic and eggs in a mixing
burning. Return to oven when serving. Sauté potatoes and wrap and refrigerate bowl. Add sugar and mix
and bake at 15-minute broccoli for a few before serving. well with a wire whisk.
intervals, stirring and minutes. 2. To make the peanut $GGˊRXUPL[WXUHDQG
tossing each time until 4. Add cream, 1 cup sauce, whisk together gently stir until smooth.
oats are golden brown. grated cheese and half peanut butter, honey, 4. Pour into prepared
Fold in dried cranberries of the bacon bits. Stir hoisin sauce, lemon juice pan and bake for 50 to
or craisins and cool and season with salt and and peanut oil. 55 minutes or when top
completely. Store in an pepper. Transfer to a 3. Before serving, toss LVˉUPLQWKHPLGGOH
airtight container. Use as ceramic or glass baking the peanut sauce with 5. Remove from the oven
a topping for ice cream, dish. Top with remaining the salad ingredients. and cool on a wire rack.
fruits or as a snack. cheese and bacon. Bake Serve with additional To serve, dust top with
for 20 minutes or until peanut sauce on the confectioners’ sugar
cheese is golden. side. and arrange fresh fruits
COOK’S TIP: over it.
Flavor your
granola with
cinnamon or any
preferred spice to
complement your
fruit pairings.

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 67


Entertaining

Rise Brunch and


It’s the best of both worlds—just combine your favorite breakfast and lunch dishes
into one glorious (and easy to prepare) meal
By TIN SAMSON
Recipes and food styling by AILEEN A. ANASTACIO | Photography by IAN CASTAÑARES | Styling by ANGELIQUE ABESAMIS CASTRO

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 69


ENTERTAINING

S
imply a playful mix of the words
breakfast and lunch, brunch is a
great way to sleep in and still get
to indulge in the morning meal.
Or if you prefer, consider it an
early lunch with heavier meal options.
Brunch dates back to the end of the
1800s when servants in the United
Kingdom would prepare the hunting
party’s catch for the day, resulting in
a morning meal served later than the
usual. In the 1920s, the wealthy used the
meal as an opportunity to drink alcohol
in the daytime. Interestingly, brunch
has also been associated with hungover
college students.
Well, for whatever reason your
group of family or friends decide to
gather for brunch, here’s a sumptuous
yet simple feast prepared by Chef Aileen
Anastacio of Marmalade Kitchen to get
you up and about. The best part is, there
isn’t much prep time required on the
actual morning because you can prepare
much of it the day before, and you can
use leftovers as well. These recipes are
easy enough for the kids to help out in
the kitchen!

Menu
Prosecco mimosas

Cereal and milk


Yogurt and fruit parfaits
Scones, butter and jam

Smoked ham and cheese


savory muffins
Chorizo and egg quesadilla
Breakfast banh mi
Baked ziti with bangers
and mushrooms

Chocolate pancakes with


bananas and caramel sauce

Smoked Ham and


Cheese Savory Muffins
Chef Aileen opted to make savory
PXIˉQVUDWKHUWKDQWKHXVXDOVZHHW
ones. Whether they’re to-go or for
DVLWGRZQEUXQFKWKHVHPXIˉQV
DUHDFLQFKWRPDNHVLQFHDOO\RX
QHHGWRGRLVFRPELQHWKHZHWDQG
GU\LQJUHGLHQWV)RUDVPRN\ˊDYRU
she used smoked ham and smoked
FKHGGDU$QGIRUDKHDOWKLHUYHUVLRQ
XVHZKROHZKHDWˊRXULQVWHDG

70 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


Breakfast Banh Mi
7KLVGLVKZDVLQVSLUHGE\&KHI$LOHHQȠVWULS
to Vietnam. What gives this quintessential
9LHWQDPHVHVDQGZLFKLWVFKDUDFWHUDQG
NLFNDUHWKHSLFNOHGYHJHWDEOHV<RXFDQ
PDNHWKHPIURPVFUDWFKRU\RXFDQXVHRXU
Filipino atchara6RPHEDQKPLIHDWXUHS¤W«
EXW\RXFDQDOVRXVHPD\RQQDLVHMXVWOLNH
LQDUHJXODUVDQGZLFK&KHI$LOHHQORYHV
WKHLGHDRIXVLQJZKDWHYHU\RXPD\KDYH
LQ\RXUIULGJH,QVWHDGRIWKHFKLFNHQLQWKLV
UHFLSH\RXFDQXVHVPRNHGFKLFNHQWXUNH\
FROGFXWVURDVWSRUNRUDQ\OHIWRYHUPHDW
,WȠVDGHOLFLRXVDQGYHUVDWLOHVDQGZLFKWKDW
\RXFDQHQMR\DQ\WLPHRIWKHGD\%XWIRU
EUXQFKPDNHVXUHWRWRSLWZLWKDQHJJ

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 71


ENTERTAINING

Baked Ziti with Bangers


and Mushrooms
)RUVRPHWKLQJˉOOLQJJRIRUDEDNHG
SDVWDGLVK%XWLQVWHDGRIWKHXVXDO
EDNHGPDFDURQLWKLVGLVKLQFRUSRUDWHV
EUHDNIDVWIDYRULWHVOLNHEDQJHUV DQ
English pork sausage) and mushrooms.
&KHI$LOHHQDGGVVRPHFUHDPWRPHOORZ
WKHVRXUQHVVRIWKHWRPDWRVDXFH,I
\RXSUHIHUDFKXQNLHUWH[WXUHDGGGLFHG
WRPDWRHV$QGLQVWHDGRI]LWL\RXFDQXVH
PDFDURQLRUIXVLOOLWRPDNHWKLVGLVKHYHQ
PRUHSOD\IXO7KHEHVWSDUWLV\RXFDQ
SUHSDUHLWDKHDGRIWLPH7KHQMXVWSRS
LWLQWKHRYHQRQFH\RXUJXHVWVDUULYH

72 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


Chocolate Pancakes
with Bananas and
Caramel Sauce
$QLQGXOJHQWWUHDWPDGHIURPVFUDWFK
WKHVHWULSOHFKRFRODWHSDQFDNHVIHDWXUH
FRFRDSRZGHUFKRFRODWHPLONDQG
FKRFRODWHFKLSV0PPP$QGIRUHYHQ
ˊXIˉHUSDQFDNHVWU\ZKLSSLQJWKHHJJ
ZKLWHVVHSDUDWHO\WKHQIROGWKHPLQWRWKH
EDWWHU6XUHWKHXVXDOV\UXSFRXOGZRUN
EXWZHOHYHOLWXSHYHQPRUHZLWKFDUDPHO
VDXFH RUDGGDSLQFKRIVDOWWRWXUQLWLQWR
DVDOWHGFDUDPHOVDXFH )RUNLGVLQWKH
JURXS&KHI$LOHHQVXJJHVWVDSDQFDNH
EDU+DYHDWDEOHZLWKDOOWKHSDQFDNH
FRPSRQHQWV EDWWHUFDQEHSUHSDUHGRU
KDYHWKHNLGVPDNHLWIURPVFUDWFK ZKHUH
WKH\FDQPL[FRRNDQGWRSWKHSDQFDNHV
ZLWKZKDWHYHUIUXLWVDQGVDXFHVWKH\ZDQW

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 73


ENTERTAINING

Mix It Up!
Who says you have to stick to orange juice
(for mimosas) and peach purée (for bellinis)?
6SLFHWKLQJVXSZLWKGLIIHUHQWˊDYRUHGMXLFHV
THE BASICS GARNISH
The proportion is half )LQLVKLWRIIZLWKIUHVK
VSDUNOLQJZLQH ZH IUXLWVOLFHVIUR]HQIUXLWV
ORYH3URVHFFR DQGKDOI or mint
MXLFH RUWU\IUR]HQIUXLW
SXU«HV  AILEEN’S TIPS:
ȧ6HWXSDPLPRVD
JUICES AND FRUITS EHOOLQLEDUZLWKGLIIHUHQW
&UDQEHUU\ MXLFHRSWLRQV
Pomegranate ȧ&KRRVHDGU\VSDUNOLQJ
Grapefruit ZLQHIRUVRPHWKLQJQRW
6WUDZEHUU\SOXVPDQJR VRVZHHWRUJRVZHHWHU
OHPRQRUEDVLO ZLWK3URVHFFR
Grape ȧ0DNHLWNLGIULHQGO\
0HORQ ZLWKVRGDZDWHURU
0DQJR JLQJHUDOHVRWKH\FDQ
KDYHIXQOLNHWKHDGXOWV
WRR
%581&+$''216 &ORFNZLVHIURPWRS :KR
ZRXOGQȠWORYHWRZDNHXSWRGHOLFLRXVDQG
KHDOWK\RSWLRQVOLNH\RJXUWIUXLWSDUIDLWVFHUHDO
DQGPLONDQGIUHVKIUXLWVQRWMXVWIRUWHDWLPH
\RXFDQLQGXOJHLQVFRQHVDQGKRPHPDGHMDPV
OLNHWKHVHRQHVIURP0DUPDODGH.LWFKHQ IRU
EUXQFKLWȠVIXQZKHQ\RXKDYHDYDULHW\RI
3URVHFFRPLPRVDVWRFKRRVHIURPȝFUDQEHUU\
DSSOHEHUULHVDQGWKHFODVVLFRUDQJH

74 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


Chorizo and Egg
Quesadilla
&KRUL]RJLYHVLWWKDW7H[
0H[WRXFKDQGFRPELQHG
ZLWKVFUDPEOHGHJJVWKLV
LVEUHDNIDVWPXVW,QVWHDG
of making this into a
IULWWDWD&KHI$LOHHQDGGV
PRUHKHIWWRWKLVEUXQFK
GLVKZLWKWRUWLOODV&KRRVH
ZKROHZKHDWWRUWLOODVIRU
a healthier option. And if
\RXGRQȠWKDYHVRXUFUHDP
RQKDQGVXEVWLWXWHZLWK
mayonnaise instead.

Marmalade Kitchen’s Easy Charm

W
hatever time of to bake chewy cookies,
day you visit cupcakes, brownies and
Marmalade bars, to cooking everyday
Kitchen, you’re easy meals, regional cooking
sure to have a like Spanish or Thai, and
bright and sunny one. Even more. Aside from classes, the
before ordering from the kitchen studio can also be
menu of comfort food and used for workshops, private
all-day breakfast fare, it’s the dinners, children’s cooking
charming and cozy ambiance parties, bridal showers and
that will make you feel at product launches.
home at once. Add to that Even if you’ve had your
the scrumptious selection of fill of Marmalade Kitchen’s
desserts, and you’re all set for goodies for dine in, you can
a memorable visit. also take home the cakes,
One of the owners of this cookies, and scones with jams
café and retail store located and marmalade (such as the
in Bonifacio Global City ones included in our brunch
is Chef Aileen Anastacio, spread). And check out Chef
a cookbook author and Aileen’s own line of hand
teacher. She is also one of soaps and room scents!
the talents behind old-time
0DNHXSE\MAITA ABAD

favorite Goodies n’ Sweets Unit 2-5, Forum South Global


bakeshop. Since opening in Building, 7th Avenue corner
late 2013, Marmalade Kitchen Federacion Avenue, Bonifacio
has also been offering South District, Bonifacio
cooking and baking classes Global City, (02) 622-9196,
for children and adults. Take (0917) 837-0959
your pick from learning

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 75


ENTERTAINING

Smoked Ham and liver pâté $OORZWRVLPPHUIRUWR WRSZLWKVOLFHGEDQDQDVWKHQ


Cheese Savory 3 tablespoons pickled minutes. Then add parsley. GUL]]OHZLWKFDUDPHOVDXFH
Muffins vegetables b7RVVLQFRRNHG]LWL
Serves 6 to 8 2 sprigs cilantro QRRGOHV6WLUXQWLOZHOO
1/4 cup roasted FRPELQHGZLWKWKH CHEF’S NOTE:
FXSVDOOSXUSRVHˊRXU  FKLFNHQVOLFHG VDXFHb6HDVRQZLWK $VDVXEVWLWXWHWRWKH
2/3 cup sugar HJJVXQQ\VLGHXS salt and pepper. EXWWHUPLONVWHHSFXS
1 1/2 tablespoons 2 tablespoons 5.3ODFHPL[WXUHLQD PLONWDEOHVSRRQ
baking powder Sriracha hot sauce EDNLQJGLVK3RXUFUHDP YLQHJDURYHUORZKHDW
1/2 teaspoon salt PD\RQQDLVHRSWLRQDO over the noodles then top IRUWRPLQXWHV
1 1/4 cups corn oil ZLWKPR]]DUHOODFKHHVH EHIRUHXVLQJ
1 1/4 cups buttermilk 1. 6OLFHEDJXHWWHKRUL]RQWDOO\ 6.%DNHLQWKHSUHKHDWHG
1 large egg to open in half. Toast RYHQIRUPLQXWHVRU
1 teaspoon vanilla extract EDJXHWWHLQDWRDVWHU XQWLOFKHHVHLVVOLJKWO\ Chorizo and Egg
1 cup smoked RYHQIRUWRPLQXWHV EURZQHG5HPRYHIURPWKH Quesadilla
cheddar cheese 2. 2QWKHERWWRPKDOIRIWKH RYHQb$OORZWRFRROIRU Serves 2
bVWULSVVPRNHGKDP EDJXHWWHVSUHDGFKLFNHQ PLQXWHVEHIRUHVHUYLQJ
cooked until crisp OLYHUS¤W«$UUDQJHWKH 1 tablespoon olive oil
SLFNOHGYHJHWDEOHVRYHUWKH Chocolate Pancakes bSLHFHFKRUL]R
STREUSEL: S¤W«DQGVSUHDGHYHQO\7RS with Bananas and  WKLQO\VOLFHG
FXSDOOSXUSRVHˊRXU ZLWKWKHFLODQWURVSULJV Caramel Sauce 2 eggs
FXSEXWWHUFXEHG 3. /D\HUWKHVOLFHGFKLFNHQ Serves 4 to 6 2 tablespoons milk
and chilled RYHUWKHFLODQWUR3ODFHWKH VDOWDQGSHSSHUWRWDVWH
1/4 cup sugar HJJRQWRSIROORZHGE\WKH FXSDOOSXUSRVHˊRXU ˊRXUWRUWLOOD
1/3 cup smoked cheddar WRSKDOIRIWKHEDJXHWWH 1/4 cup cocoa powder 2 tablespoons sour cream
 FKHHVHJUDWHGRUFXEHG 4.3ODFHWKHVDQGZLFKRQD 1/4 cup sugar 2 tablespoons cheddar
2 tablespoons smoked VHUYLQJERDUG6HUYHZLWK 2 teaspoons baking powder  FKHHVHJUDWHG
 KDPFXEHG 6ULUDFKDVDXFHRU6ULUDFKD 1/2 teaspoon baking soda WRPDWRVDOVDVHUYHG
ˊDYRUHGPD\RQQDLVH 1/2 teaspoon salt on the side
1. Preheat oven to 1 1/4 cups chocolate milk VRXUFUHDPVHUYHG
r)b/LQHPXIˉQWLQV Baked Ziti with ODUJHHJJVVHSDUDWHG on the side
ZLWKSDSHUFXSV Bangers and 2 tablespoons melted butter
2. &RPELQHˊRXUVXJDU Mushrooms 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract 1. ,QDVDXW«SDQZLWKROLYH
EDNLQJSRZGHUDQGVDOW Serves 4 1/4 cup chocolate chips RLOFRRNWKHFKRUL]R
LQDPHGLXPERZO EDQDQDVOLFHG 2.,QDERZOEHDWHJJV
3.,QDQRWKHUERZOZKLVN 3 tablespoons olive oil FXSFDUDPHOVDXFHZDUP and milk together. Add
WRJHWKHURLOEXWWHUPLON FXSEDQJHUV RUDQ\ salt and pepper.
egg and vanilla. Pour over  SRUNVDXVDJH FKRSSHG 1.b,QDPHGLXPERZOZKLVN 3. Pour eggs into the pan.
WKHˊRXUPL[WXUHb0L[ FXSPXVKURRPV WRJHWKHUDOOSXUSRVHˊRXU &RRNXQWLOVOLJKWO\VHWEXWQRW
MXVWXQWLOFRPELQHG chopped FRFRDSRZGHUVXJDUEDNLQJ GU\7KHQUHPRYHVFUDPEOHG
4. $GGWKHVPRNHGFKHGGDU 1/4 cup chopped onion SRZGHUEDNLQJVRGDDQGVDOW eggs from the pan.
DQGKDP6WLUMXVWXQWLO 1/2 tablespoon 2.b,QDVHSDUDWHERZO 4. 3UHSDUHWKHˊRXU
FRPELQHG'RQRWRYHUPL[  JDUOLFPLQFHG FRPELQHFKRFRODWHPLONHJJ WRUWLOODb2QDKDOIVLGHRI
5.8VLQJDRXQFHLFHFUHDP 1/4 teaspoon red \RONVPHOWHGEXWWHUDQG WKHˊRXUWRUWLOODVSUHDG
VFRRSHUVFRRSWKHEDWWHU  SHSSHUˊDNHV YDQLOODb6WLUZHOO*UDGXDOO\ WKHVRXUFUHDP7KHQ
LQWRWKHPXIˉQFXSV 360 grams tomato purée add the liquid ingredients to OD\HUWKHVFUDPEOHGHJJV
67RPDNHWKHVWUHXVHO 2 tablespoons WKHGU\LQJUHGLHQWVb6WLUXQWLO DQGFKRUL]RDQGVSULQNOH
FRPELQHˊRXUEXWWHU  SDUVOH\FKRSSHG FRPELQHGEXWVWLOOOXPS\ WKHFKHHVHb6DQGZLFKWKH
DQGVXJDUb0L[XQWLO JUDPV]LWLQRRGOHV 3.b,QDERZORIDQHOHFWULF ˉOOLQJE\IROGLQJRYHUWKH
DERXWSHDVL]HGFOXPSV cooked as directed PL[HUEHDWWKHHJJZKLWHV RWKHUHQGRIWKHWRUWLOOD
IRUP$GGWKHFKHGGDU VDOWDQGSHSSHUWRWDVWH XQWLOVRIWSHDNVIRUPb)ROG forming a half moon.
FKHHVHDQGKDP6SULQNOH FXSKHDY\FUHDP LWLQWRWKHEDWWHU 5.+HDWDVDXW«SDQRQ
DERXWWRWDEOHVSRRQV 1 cup mozzarella 4.b:DUPDJULGGOHRQORZ medium high heat. Cook
VWUHXVHORQWKHPXIˉQV  FKHHVHJUDWHG KHDW3RXUFXSRI the folded tortilla until
7.%DNHPXIˉQVLQWKH EDWWHURQWRWKHJULGGOHb JROGHQWKHQˊLSWRFRRN
SUHKHDWHGRYHQIRUWR 1. 3UHKHDWRYHQWRr) b&RRNXQWLOWKHVXUIDFHLV WKHRWKHUVLGHXQWLOFULVS
PLQXWHVRUXQWLOWRSVDUH +HDWROLYHRLOLQDVDXW« FRYHUHGZLWKWLQ\EXEEOHV 5HPRYHIURPKHDWb
JROGHQ$OORZWRFRROIRU SDQ&RRNEDQJHUVXQWLO DERXWWRPLQXWHV 6. Transfer the tortilla
PLQXWHVEHIRUHVHUYLQJ JROGHQ5HPRYHIURPKHDW 6SULQNOHVXUIDFHZLWK WRDFKRSSLQJERDUG&XW
2. ,QWKHVDPHSDQDGG WDEOHVSRRQFKRFRODWHFKLSV LQWRWULDQJOHVWKHZD\
Breakfast Banh Mi PXVKURRPVDQGVDXW«IRU b)OLSWKHSDQFDNHVDQG \RXZRXOGFXWDSL]]D
Serves 1 WRPLQXWHVb$GGRQLRQDQG FRRNXQWLOWKHVHFRQGVLGH b6HUYHZLWKWRPDWR
JDUOLFb&RRNXQWLOIUDJUDQW LVJROGHQEURZQb5HSHDW salsa and additional sour
1 6-inch baguette 7KHQDGGUHGSHSSHUˊDNHV ZLWKWKHUHVWRIWKHEDWWHU FUHDPRQWKHVLGH
1 tablespoon chicken 3. $GGWKHWRPDWRSXU«H b6WDFNSDQFDNHVRQDSODWH

76 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


Photography by PAULO VALENZUELA | Styling by PIXIE RODRIGO SEVILLA

What’s in a Waffle?
We’ve all heard of the Belgian waffle—
that sweet, crispy waffle that can be
eaten on its own, without maple syrup,
whipped cream or sliced fruits. In
Brussels, it’s considered street food
(literally, it is eaten on the street), not
typical breakfast fare. The first version
of the Belgian waffle was actually a
yeast-leavened batter. These days, as
revised by the Americans, it’s no longer
leavened, and is closer to pancakes in
terms of flavor and taste. Our recipes
on page 110 echo the American version,
but ours are airier and lighter thanks to
the incorporation of meringue.  

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 77


HOME BASICS | light & right

Salads
Chicken Tandoori
Kalabasa Quinoa Salad
Serves 4

CHICKEN :
1 cup plain whole milk yogurt, divided

of substance 2 tablespoons lime juice


2 tablespoons curry powder
salt and pepper, to taste
VNLQOHVVFKLFNHQWKLJKˉOOHWV
These healthy greens will fill you 3 tablespoons melted butter

up and keep hunger pangs at bay SALAD :


1 cup quinoa (about 6 ounces)
Recipes by MITCHIE SISON | Photography by PAU LO VA L E N ZU E L A

I
1/2 cup chopped ripe mango
Styling by N A NC Y DIZON - EDR A LIN
1 cup kalabasa (squash), cut into
f you want to eat light, make yourself a salad. Don’t worry that you’ll 1/2-inch cubes and boiled
still be hungry after munching on your greens—it’s easy to add heft to 1/2 cup julienned red bell pepper
your salad with the right mix of flavorful proteins, fruits and vegetables, 1 small red onion, thinly sliced
plus a good dose of dressing. Yes indeed, a salad can be a filling and crosswise, separated into rings
substantial main dish. 1 cup chopped unpeeled cucumber
5 tablespoons chopped
green onions, divided
200 grams fresh spinach leaves
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro

1. Blend 1/2 cup of yogurt, lime


juice, curry powder, salt and pepper.
Add chicken and turn over to coat.
Cover and refrigerate overnight.
2. Preheat grill or grill pan to medium-
high. Place marinade-coated chicken
on the grill. Grill chicken until just
cooked through, about 12 minutes
per side, occasionally basting with
butter during the last 2 minutes.
Transfer chicken to a platter.
3. Cook quinoa in a medium pot of
boiling salted water over medium
heat until quinoa is tender but still
ˉUPWRWKHELWHVWLUULQJRFFDVLRQDOO\
about 12 minutes. Drain well and
cool. Transfer to a medium bowl.
4. Add mango, kalabasa, red bell
pepper, sliced red onion, cucumber, and
green onions to quinoa. Toss to coat.
5. Divide chicken tandoori among
the plates. Add spinach to each plate
and spoon quinoa salad over spinach.
Garnish with cilantro leaves. Drizzle
with remaining yogurt and serve.

Instead of quinoa
,I\RXFDQȠWˉQGTXLQRDRUDUHORRNLQJIRUDOHVV
expensive option, use bow tie pasta or couscous
instead. And here’s a handy tip—remove the
VWURQJSXQJHQWˊDYRURIWKHUHGRQLRQE\
soaking it in cold water for at least 30 minutes.
You can marinate, then freeze the chicken for a
week, then thaw and grill when needed.

78 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


$GGRQˊDYRU
)RUPRUHGHSWKWRWKHˊDYRU\RX
can grill the romaine lettuce before
adding it to the salad. Instead of
prawns, you can substitute cubed
chicken breast. And don’t forget to
drizzle lemon juice on the avocado
WRSUHYHQWEURZQLQJRUR[LGDWLRQb

5-Spice Prawn Salad with


Avocado-Mango Toss
Serves 6

12 tiger prawns, peeled, heads


removed, and deveined
water or chicken broth,
for blanching
1 carrot, shredded
4 cherry tomatoes, halved
1 avocado, halved and sliced
1 ripe mango, medium diced
1/4 cup sliced almonds, toasted
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
1 cup romaine lettuce,
cut into 2-inch strips

1. Blanch prawns in water


or chicken broth until fully
cooked. Set aside to cool. Once
cooled, slice prawns in half.
2. Place prawns in a bowl, add
carrot, cherry tomatoes, avocado,
mango, almonds and cilantro.
3. Pour dressing (recipe
below) into the bowl and
mix all ingredients well.
4. Place romaine on a serving
plate and top with the prawn
salad. Serve heated or cold.

DRESSING :
juice and zest of 1/2 lemon
1 tablespoon honey
1 tablespoon extra
virgin olive oil
WHDVSRRQˉYHVSLFHSRZGHU

In a small bowl, whisk


lemon juice and zest, honey,
DQGROLYHRLO6WLULQˉYH
spice powder. Set aside.

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 79


HOME BASICS | light & right

Roll the pizza


Convert this “pizza + salad” dish into a
rolled-up wrap. Just slice the pizza into
strips, add the salad on top and roll it up.
For the dressing, feel free to use pineapple
or orange jam instead of strawberry jam
for that extra dose of sweetness.

Grilled Kesong Puti and Basil


Pizza with Melon Salad
Serves 5

1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil


1/2 cup canned diced tomatoes
salt and freshly cracked black pepper,
to taste
ZKROHZKHDWˊRXUWRUWLOODV
2 tomatoes, thinly sliced
1 bunch fresh basil
8 slices fresh kesong puti
1 cup arugula lettuce
1/2 cup melon strips

1. Heat grill pan or fry pan to high.


2. In a bowl, make tomato sauce by
combining olive oil, diced tomatoes, salt
and pepper. Spoon tomato sauce on a
tortilla in an even layer. Layer tomato
slices, basil leaves, and kesong puti over
the sauce. Repeat this process until all of
the tortillas are prepared.
3. Grill or cook tortillas for 10 to 12
minutes, until kesong puti is melted and
tortilla begins to brown.
4. Toss arugula and melon strips with
the dressing (recipe below) and top over
freshly cooked pizza. Serve.

DRESSING :
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons strawberry jam

In a small bowl, whisk olive oil, balsamic


vinegar and strawberry jam. Season with
salt and pepper. Set aside.

80 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


HOME BASICS | simply desserts

Quirky Classics
A new take on French traditional pastries, inspired by Japan
Recipes and styling by MIKO ASPIRAS

C
Photography by PAULO VALENZUELA | Text by GINNY MATA

reative chefs are always Theory, and Technique for even more evident: from brilliant pastry chefs behind
looking to experiment the Artisan Confectioner) flaky croissants filled with Le Petit Soufflé and Scout’s
with new, interesting have been incorporating azuki bean paste, to matcha Honor, Miko Aspiras and
flavors that may be Japanese flavors like matcha, macarons, to plated desserts Kristine Lotilla? You can try
out of their comfort yuzu and azuki bean into composed of yuzu cream, your hand at recreating their
zone. Prominent pastry their creations. In the pages passionfruit curd and green signature style at home with
chefs like Francisco Migoya of So Good Magazine: The tea genoise. these spectacular recipes, or
(Elements of Dessert) and Magazine of Haute Patisserie, Who better to bring this else try them first at Le Petit
Peter Geweling (Chocolates this cross-cultural pollination French-Japanese fusion of Soufflé, available starting this
& Confections: Formula, of East and West becomes styles here than the young, August.

CHEF’S NOTE:
,I\RXFDQȠWˉQG\X]X
you can substitute it
with lemon or lime
syrup. Combine 1/3
cup lemon or lime
juice and 3/4 cup
white sugar. Bring to a
boil until temperature
reaches 116°C. You
can add lemon zest
for additional texture.

An “easy”
meringue
The secret to this
Australian dessert is a
meringue that’s light as
Strawberry and meringue is glossy and stiff. GROORSRIFUHDPˉOOLQJ UHFLSH a feather, crisp on the
Yuzu Lime Pavlova 3. Whisk in cream of tartar below) in the center. Then outside and chewy on
Serves 8 and vanilla extract, then top with fresh strawberries the inside. Chef Miko
ZKLVNXQWLOPHULQJXHLVˉUP RUDQ\IUXLWDYDLODEOH DQG shares his easy version
MERINGUE: 4. Transfer the meringue garnish with mint leaves. which is piped. Pavlova
4 egg whites to a piping bag. Pipe small LVWUDGLWLRQDOO\ˉOOHGZLWK
3/4 cup + 2 tablespoons 3-inch circles creating a CREAM FILLING: FKDQWLOO\FUHDP ZKLSSHG
white sugar crater by making the sides 1 1/2 cups + 1 1/2 cream and confectioners’
1 1/4 cups powdered sugar a little higher than the tablespoons heavy sugar), and topped with
1 teaspoon cream of tartar center. Or feel free to be as whipping cream assorted fruits. Instead,
1 teaspoon vanilla extract decorative as you want. 1 teaspoon vanilla extract Chef Miko innovates with
5. Bake meringue shells in 2 tablespoons yuzu yuzu-infused cream. Yuzu
1. Preheat oven to 300°F. preheated oven for 25 to or lemon juice is currently the darling fruit
2. To make the meringue, 30 minutes. Cool down to 1/2 cup powdered sugar of the culinary world, as its
in a mixing bowl, whisk room temperature, then taste is more well rounded
egg whites until pale keep in a sealed container In an electric mixer, whip than that of a lemon or
and light. Add white and until ready to use. the cream and powdered lime.
powdered sugars then 6. To assemble, place the baked sugar until stiff. Fold in
continue to whip until meringue on a plate. Place a vanilla and lemon juice.

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 81


HOME BASICS | simply desserts

A deluxe version
Pancakes as we know them can be
boring. How many iterations of heavy
buttermilk pancakes and rich, cloying
maple syrup can one have? In Chef
Miko’s version, the batter is aerated
with meringue, and paired with
peaches and cream. The pancake is
light, almost ethereal, lingering just
long enough on the tongue before
turning into a pleasant, comforting
dream. If you’re pressed for time,
though, just substitute with a
traditional pancake mix. And feel free
to use other fresh fruits like mangoes
or strawberries.

Peaches n’ Creme Japanese FROSTING : pour in the milk. Whisk until smooth.
Pancake Soufflé 3/4 cup cream cheese 3. Whisk in eggs, vanilla and vegetable
Serves 6 3/4 cup powdered sugar oil. Fold in the whipped egg whites.
Set aside.
PANCAKES : TOPPINGS : 4. To make the frosting, combine cream
4 egg whites 6 halves canned peaches, sliced cheese and powdered sugar. Beat in an
3/4 cup white sugar 1/2 cup granola electric mixer until smooth.
FXSVDOOSXUSRVHˊRXU FXSVXQˊRZHUVHHGV 5. To cook the pancakes, heat a non-
2 tablespoons white sugar powdered sugar, for dusting stick pan with a teaspoon of butter.
2 teaspoons baking powder Pour a ladle full of pancake batter,
1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1. In a mixing bowl, whisk egg whites around 3 tablespoons, into the pan.
1/2 teaspoon salt and white sugar until stiff peaks form. When bubbles begin to form on the
1 1/2 cups milk Set aside. SDQFDNHˊLSWRFRRNWKHRWKHUVLGH
2 eggs 2. Meanwhile in another mixing bowl, 6. Top each pancake with cream cheese
1 teaspoon vanilla extract FRPELQHˊRXUVXJDUEDNLQJSRZGHU frosting, sliced peaches, granola and
2 tablespoons vegetable oil baking soda and salt. Whisk to remove VXQˊRZHUVHHGV'XVWZLWKSRZGHUHG
butter, for cooking lumps. Make a well in the center, then sugar.

82 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


How to Matcha and Dark 4. Bake in the preheated 3 1/2 tablespoons
match matcha Chocolate Millefeuille oven for 30 to 45 minutes or white sugar
Also known as Napoleon Serves 4 until puff pastry is golden 1/3 cup softened butter
or miglia foglia, it’s French brown in color and evenly 3/4 teaspoon good
for a “thousand leaves.” PUFF PASTRY : baked. Cool down and keep quality matcha powder
It refers to a rectangular 1 12 x 12-inch puff pastry in a sealed container. 1 1/2 tablespoons hot
pastry of three strips of sheet, store bought 5. To assemble the melted dark chocolate
puff pastry layered with 1 tablespoon white sugar millefeuille, spread matcha
cream, jam or another SDVWU\FUHDP UHFLSHEHORZ  1. In a mixing bowl,
ˉOOLQJ:KLOHLWVWUDGLWLRQDO 1. Preheat oven to 350°F. on top of one layer of puff whisk together whole
ˉOOLQJLVYDQLOODSDVWU\ 2. /D\ˊDWDVKHHWRISXII pastry. Then top it off with egg, egg yolk, vanilla and
cream, Chef Miko uses pastry on a non-stick or another puff pastry layer. cornstarch until there are
matcha mousseline parchment-lined baking Spread chocolate pastry no lumps, then set aside.
instead. Whereas matcha is tray. Generously punch the FUHDP UHFLSHEHORZ RQ 2. In a heavy-bottomed,
usually paired with white pastry with holes using top. Finish it off by topping medium-sized saucepot, boil
chocolate, here it cuts the tip of a fork. Sprinkle LWZLWKDˉQDOOD\HURI milk and sugar. Immediately
through the bitterness of generously with white sugar. puff pastry. Chill to set, pour approximately 1/4 of
dark chocolate, adding 'LYLGHSDVWU\LQWR then slice as preferred. the boiling milk into the
another layer of complexity four portions. egg mixture to temper
to an already impressive 3. Place another baking PASTRY CREAM the eggs. Stir egg mixture
GLVK'LYLGHSDVWU\SRUWLRQV tray on top of the puff (MOUSSELINE): until well mixed.
pastry to keep the pastry 1 whole egg 3. Pour egg mixture into
IURPSXIˉQJWRRPXFK 1 egg yolk the rest of the simmering
3/4 teaspoon vanilla extract milk. Whisk until mixture
1 tablespoon cornstarch is thick. Remove from
3/4 cup milk heat, cool down rapidly
by pouring mixture into
a bowl over ice water.
Whisk in softened butter.
Chill until ready to use.
4.'LYLGHWKHSDVWU\FUHDP
into two batches. Whisk
in matcha powder into
one batch. Whisk in hot
melted dark chocolate
into the second batch.

THE FRENCH -JAPANESE


CONNECTION
/H3HWLW6RXIˊ«PD\VRXQGOLNHD)UHQFK
restaurant, but it’s not. Instead it’s inspired
by how the Japanese regard French cuisine,
blending the traditional with the creative. The
brainchild of Chefs Miko Aspiras and Kristine CHEF’S NOTE:
Lotilla, together with restaurateur Charlie Paw You can substitute pastry
and businesswoman Katherine Go, Le Petit FUHDP PRXVVHOLQH ZLWK
6RXIˊ«KDVEHHQUHFHLYLQJUDYHUHYLHZVVLQFH whipped cream. Just divide 1
it opened several months ago. The chefs pride 1/2 cups dairy whipping cream
themselves in using only the best quality and 1/2 cup powdered sugar
LQJUHGLHQWVSRVVLEOH HJ9DOUKRQD LQWREDWFKHV:KLSWKHˉUVW
FKRFRODWH ZLWKDPHQXˉOOHGZLWKVZHHW half with 1/2 teaspoon matcha
DQGVDYRU\VRXIˊ«VGHFDGHQWFRPIRUWIRRG
dishes like the signature Foie Gras Mac and powder and the other half
Cheese, and showstopping plated desserts. with 1 1/2 tablespoons cocoa
3/F Century City Mall, Kalayaan powder. Whip until stiff peaks
Avenue, Makati City, (02) 888-3056 form.

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 83


HOME BASICS | cooking class

Waffle Wonders Learn how to make perfectly crisp waffles at home

W
Story, recipes and styling by Pixie Rodrigo Sevilla I Photography by Paulo Valenzuela

affles are a staple in any breakfast menu. We


usually enjoy them with a side of maple syrup
and freshly whipped butter or any topping of our Basic Waffle
choice. We can pair them with fruit compote or Recipe
slices of bacon. While making waffles may seem Serves 6 to 8
difficult, in truth, you can master them in no time—all it takes
is a good quality waffle maker and the following step-by-step 1 cup all-purpose
guide. Once you’ve perfected them, it’s time to get playful  ˊRXU
with these fun waffle recipes that break new ground. FXSFDNHˊRXU
2 tablespoons sugar
pinch of salt
3 3/4 teaspoons
baking powder
3 eggs, separated
1 1/3 cups milk
1/2 cup butter,
melted
2 teaspoons sugar
melted butter or
vegetable oil, for
brushing

1. Sift together the 2


NLQGVRIˊRXUVXJDU
salt and baking
powder. Set aside.
2. Combine egg yolks,
milk and melted
butter. Whisk into the
sifted dry mixture
until smooth.
3. In another bowl or
electric mixer bowl,
beat egg whites with
2 teaspoons sugar
until stiff.
4.)ROGWKHˊRXUHJJ
milk mixture into the
beaten egg whites
by hand. Cook the
ZDIˊHVLQDZDIˊH
maker following the
FOR EXTRA step-by-step guide on
CRISPY WAFFLES the next page.
A runny batter
equals a crispier
batter. You can
replace the melted
butter with an equal
amount of vegetable
oil. Another trick is
to replace 1/3 of
WKHDOOSXUSRVHˊRXU
with cornstarch.

84 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


Breakfast Cereal &RRNLQWKHZDIˊH
Waffles maker.
Serves 6 to 8 2. 6HUYHFRRNHGZDIˊHV
with milk on the side
1/2 cup colorful cereal to be poured on top.
like Fruit Loops, You can also serve with
Lucky Charms or any more cereal on the
cereal of your choice side.
EDVLFZDIˊHUHFLSH 3. Or else, break the
fresh milk ZDIˊHVLQWRVPDOOHU
pieces, place in a cereal
1. Fold cereal into the bowl and enjoy with
EDVLFZDIˊHEDWWHU milk and fresh fruits.

MAKE AHEAD
'RQȠWKDYHWLPHWRPDNHZDIˊHVIURPVFUDWFK
during the morning rush? Cook them in
WKHZDIˊHPDNHULQDGYDQFH:UDSWKHPLQ
airtight plastic bags and place in the freezer.
7RVHUYHMXVWWKDZWKHZDIˊHVWKHQKHDW
EULHˊ\LQWKHWRDVWHURUWRDVWHURYHQ

Using a Waffle Maker

1 2 3 4
Before making the To avoid spills, use a Avoid checking too To clean the waffle
batter, preheat the liquid measuring cup often if the waffle is maker, just wipe with
waffle maker. or small pitcher to pour cooked. You can rely a paper towel or clean
Lightly brush the the batter into the griddle. on the light indicator that cloth after every use. Avoid
preheated griddle of the Always pour in the center of most waffle makers have to using soap and water.
waffle maker with melted each waffle mold, allowing know if the waffle is ready.
butter or oil before using. the batter to spread to fill For extra crispy waffles, cook
Make sure to brush after the sides of the entire mold. them longer. Remember
every 2 waffles cooked to Fill the whole mold but not patience is key.
prevent them from sticking excessively since the batter
to the griddle. Usually, the will still expand as it cooks.
first waffle you make will be
deformed.
THE SECRET IS IN THE WAFFLE MAKER :DIˊHVXFFHVVVWDUWVZLWKDJRRGTXDOLW\
ZDIˊHPDNHU/RRNIRURQHWKDWIHDWXUHVHYHQKLJKKHDWDQGDKHDY\GXW\VWDLQOHVVVWHHOJULGGOHWKDW
UHWDLQVWKHKHDW7KH&XLVLQDUW7UDGLWLRQDO:DIˊH0DNHUIHDWXUHVDOLJKWVDIHW\LQGLFDWRUDOLGWKDWFDQ
ORFNWRHQVXUHHYHQEDNLQJFRROWRXFKVLGHKDQGOHVDQGWRQHVLJQDOVZKLFKLQGLFDWHZKHQWRˉOOWKH
JULGGOHZLWKEDWWHUDQGZKHQLWLVWLPHWRUHPRYHWKHFRRNHGZDIˊH7KH&XLVLQDUW7UDGLWLRQDO:DIˊH
Maker is available at Rustan’s Department Stores, Crate & Barrel, True Home, True Value, Anson’s, select SM
Homeworld branches, select Abenson’s outlets, SM Appliance Store and Landmark

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 85


HOME BASICS | cooking class

NEW ORLEANS STYLE Nola Waffles measurements and cornmeal


Here’s our version of the Serves 6 to 8 LQGLFDWHG&RRNLQWKHZDIˊH
Southern classic of fried maker.
FKLFNHQDQGZDIˊHV)RU EDVLFZDIˊHUHFLSH 2. Cook the fried chicken.
even more New Orleans (replace all-purpose 3ODFHRQWRSRIWKHZDIˊHV
ˊDYRUXVHEUHDGHGVKULPS  ˊRXUDQGFDNHˊRXU  3. Serve with jalapeño
RUFDWˉVKLQVWHDGRIIULHG with dry ingredients maple syrup.
chicken. Note that the below)
ZDIˊHVZRQȠWEHDVFULVS\ 1/4 cup all-purpose JALAPEÑO MAPLE SYRUP :
because of the addition  ˊRXU 2 cups maple syrup
of cornmeal. If you don’t 1/2 cup cornmeal 2 teaspoons to 1
want them spicy, just FXSFDNHˊRXU tablespoon jalapeño
VHUYHWKHZDIˊHVZLWK 1 pack ready-to-fry pepper slices
gravy, honey or plain breaded crisp fried
maple syrup. chicken 1. Boil maple syrup and
jalapeño maple syrup jalapeño together.
(recipe below) 2. Remove from heat and
let steep overnight in the
1. 3UHSDUHWKHEDVLFZDIˊH refrigerator, covered.
recipe, replacing the all- 3. Before serving, remove
SXUSRVHˊRXUDQGFDNH the jalapeños from the
ˊRXUZLWKWKHLUDGMXVWHG syrup.

86 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


BREAKFAST FAVES
Protein Overload Instead of bacon, use
Waffles FRUQHGEHHIˊDNHG
Serves 6 to 8 leftover adobo, cooked
ham or chorizo bits. You
EDVLFZDIˊHUHFLSH can also add slices of
8 lettuce or arugula tomato and cucumber.
leaves Or else, do an “eggs
6 to 8 large burger %HQHGLFWȣVW\OHZDIˊH
patties, grilled or with poached eggs and
pan-fried hollandaise sauce.
8 strips bacon
8 fried eggs, sunny
side up
ketchup, for drizzling
pinch of bottled garlic
 ˊDNHV

1. Prepare the basic


ZDIˊHUHFLSH&RRNLQWKH
ZDIˊHPDNHU
2. 7UDQVIHUDZDIˊHWRD
plate. Place lettuce on
top. Add a burger patty,
followed by bacon strips
and fried egg.
3. Drizzle ketchup on top
DQGVSULQNOHJDUOLFˊDNHV

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 87


HOME BASICS | 30 minutes or less

BREAKFAST
IN A FLASH
Tired of the usual pandesal or cereal? These fun and fast
meals will let you start your day with a smile
Recipes by PORTIA BALUYUT | Photography by PAUL DEL ROSARIO | Styling by TINA CONCEPCION DIAZ

Bacon, Egg and


Tomato Croissant
Squares
Serves 4

4 squares store-bought puff


pastry
4 slices American cheese or
any melting cheese, grated
4 eggs
4 bacon strips, cut into 2
extra egg, for brushing
pastry
cherry tomatoes
salt and pepper, to taste
smoked paprika

1. Preheat oven to 350°F.


2. Fold the sides of the puff
pastry square over, squeezing
the sides to create a well in
the center of the square. Or
else, slice 1-inch puff pastry
strips and layer them around
the sides of the puff pastry
square to create a well.
3. Sprinkle the cheese inside
the pastry well. Crack an egg
into the pastry well and top
with a slice of bacon.
4. In a separate bowl, whisk
extra egg. Brush pastry with
egg wash for a nice golden
brown puff pastry.
5. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes
until egg yolk is cooked to
your liking.
6. While pastry is baking, in
a separate pan, cook cherry
Anything goes tomatoes until skin is scored.
These croissant squares are the 7. Once puff pastry is
perfect vehicle for whatever perfectly brown and the
ingredients you have in your pantry: eggs and bacon are cooked,
Experiment with cream cheese and season with salt, pepper and
salmon. Instead of bacon, use your smoked paprika. Top with
favorite chorizo or substitute with cherry tomatoes for a pop of
crispy corned beef hash. Leftover color.
DGRERˊDNHVZRXOGEHJUHDWWRR

88 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


Morning blush
*HW\RXUYLWDPLQˉ[ZLWK
this fruit and veggie juice.
Instead of pineapple, try
it with orange for a more
citrusy treat.

Sweet Sunrise
Serves 1

1/2 cup sliced fresh


pineapple
1 apple, sliced
half a carrot, sliced
1/2 teaspoon beet juice
ice cubes

1. Juice all ingredients


together, except for beet
juice and ice cubes. Pour
into a tall glass.
2. Slowly pour the beet juice
into the fruit juice to create
a red swirl. Do not mix.
Serve with ice cubes.

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 89


HOHOME | D.I.Y. |RELIS
BASICS
ME BASICS HES
30 minutes or less

Potato and Cooking with Portia


Squash Crisps 0DQ\DOUHDG\NQRZ3RUWLD%DOX\XWIURPKHUVWLQWDVDˉQDOLVWRQ
Serves 6
Lifestyle Network’s Clash of the Toque-en Ones in 2010. Since then,
Portia has been keeping busy all-day breakfast restaurant, Rustic
Cooking oil, for deep Mornings By Isabelo in Marikina, where she dishes out lovingly
frying rendered comfort food in charming surroundings. She’s also back
1 1/2 cups grated on the small screen with A Pinch of Portia on the Lifestyle Network
potato where she shares her love for home cooking with viewers.
1 1/2 cups grated
squash Rustic Mornings By Isabelo, 11 I. Mendoza Street, Marikina City,
2 1/2 tablespoons (02) 681-2461, 425-8610
grated Parmesan A Pinch of Portia airs every Tuesday 7:30 PM, Wednesday 12:30
AM and 11:30 AM, Friday 2 AM, and Sunday 5 PM and 10 PM on the
cheese
Lifestyle Network.
2 tablespoons chopped
parsley

1. Fill a large pan


halfway with cooking
oil. Heat oil on stove at
medium heat.
2. In a large bowl,
combine potato and
squash. Squeeze the
mixture with both
hands to remove as
much moisture as
possible.
3. Add Parmesan and
parsley and mix well.
4. Using a 1/4 cup
PHDVXULQJFXSˉOOZLWK
potato-squash mixture
and drop mixture into
hot cooking oil. Do
not touch. Let it cook
for 5 to 8 minutes or
until bottom is golden
brown. Flip and cook
the other side.
5. Cook until golden
brown and crispy,
transfer to a plate
covered with a kitchen
towel to drain excess
oil.

Fry till crisp


These crisps are a hearty
ZD\WRJHW\RXUYHJJLHˉ[
If you’re having trouble
keeping the shape of the
crisps, add 1 egg to the
mixture to act as a binder.

90 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


HOME BASICS | D.I.Y.

A Bottle of Bottled Salmon


Belly with Thyme
2. Carefully place

(FISH)
salmon belly strips in
and Lemon a small saucepan. Pour
in Olive Oil in water and olive oil,
Makes 1 cup (240 making sure salmon
to 250 grams) does not stick to the
bottom of the pan.
200 grams salmon 3. Add garlic, 2
belly, scales lemon slices, thyme,
removed, cleaned bay leaf, crushed
and cut into peppercorns and salt.

Love
5-inch strips 4. Simmer mixture,
salt and pepper, partially covered in
to taste low heat, for about 8
3/4 cup water minutes. Remove cover,
1/2 cup extra virgin gently stir, simmer for
olive oil, plus another 5 minutes.
Tuyo, sardines or salmon—here’s extra for bottling 5. Remove pan from
how to make your favorite bottled 2 cloves garlic, crushed
3 round slices
heat and cool for 1
to 2 hours. Adjust
fish products from scratch lemon, with peel salt according to
3 to 4 sprigs taste. Discard cooked
Story and recipes by A BY N ACH U R A | Photography by PAU LO VA L E N ZU E L A

M
fresh thyme thyme and bay leaf.
Styling by PIXIE RODRIGO SE V IL L A
1 small fresh bay leaf 6. Transfer cooled
ake your kids’ breakfast and baon extra special. Simply paired 1/8 teaspoon crushed salmon mixture to
with garlic rice, sunny side up eggs or even toasted bread and peppercorns a sterilized jar. Add
hot chocolate, these homemade bottled fish recipes are a sure hit. 1/2 teaspoon remaining lemon slice
Prepare them in batches ahead of time and you’ll have a weekly  LRGL]HGˉQHVDOW and extra olive oil if
staple that’s definitely clean, healthy and super delicious. 1 sterilized jar/bottle desired. Store in the
with tight lid (240 refrigerator for 1 to
to 250 ml capacity) 2 days for stronger
ˊDYRU<RXFDQNHHS
1. Season salmon the bottled salmon
belly strips with in the refrigerator for
salt and pepper. up to one month.

Marinating is key
Keep the cooked salmon
in the refrigerator for more
than 24 hours to ensure
WKDWWKHULFKˊDYRUVRIWKH
salmon and light citrus
herbs blend well.

91 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3 FOOD |2015 Issue 3 91


HOME BASICS | D.I.Y.

Bottled Tawilis 2. $UUDQJHˉVKLQ


(Spanish Sardine a pressure cooker.
Style) with Add the rest of the
Stuffed Olives ingredients and the
Makes 1 cup (240 remaining water. Make
to 250 grams) sure that ingredients
are completely covered
WDEOHVSRRQˉQHVHDVDOW with liquid. Add more
2 1/2 cups water, divided oil if necessary.
200 grams tawilis, 3 to 4 3. Pressure cook for
inches long, with scales DERXWWRPLQXWHV
1 cup canola oil Cool before opening
2 cloves the pressure cooker.
3 garlic cloves, peeled Adjust salt to taste.
4 to 5 red pepper stuffed 4. Transfer cooked tawilis
olives, sliced into 3 to a clean, sterilized
1/8 teaspoon crushed bottle, arranging the
peppercorns ˉVKWREHVWDQGLQJXS
1/8 teaspoon Cover the jar and make
Spanish paprika sure lid is tightly closed.
1 teaspoon light 5. Steam bottled
soy sauce tawilis over high heat
3/4 cup tomato sauce IRUPLQXWHV
1 teaspoon brown sugar 6. Remove from heat.
2 tablespoons Let cool for one hour,
brandy, optional with cover side down.
1 sterilized jar/bottle 7. Once completely
with tight lid (240 cooled, store in the
to 250 ml capacity) refrigerator for 24
hours before serving
1. Combine salt and IRUVWURQJHUˊDYRU7KH
2 cups water. Soak bottled tawilis can be
FOHDQHGˉVKIRUWR stored in the refrigerator
15 minutes and drain. for up to one month.

Spanish or
Portuguese style
What’s the difference?
Spanish style is cooked
in tomato sauce while
Portuguese is cooked in
olive oil. Whatever the
style of sardines, the key
is to use a pressure cooker
WRFRRNWKHˉVKDQGVDXFH
quickly, allowing the sauce
to incorporate well with
WKHˉVKDQGWRVRIWHQWKH
ˉVKERQHVPDNLQJWKHˉVK
safe to eat whole, bones
and all. For this recipe, you
can use Salinas sardines,
galunggong or baby bangus
LI\RXFDQȠWˉQGtawilis.

92 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3 FOOD |2015 Issue 3 92


Bottled Dried Herring (Tuyo)
with Capers in Corn Oil
Makes 1 cup (220 to 240 grams)

200 grams tuyo (salted dried herring)


1/2 cup corn oil, divided
1 tablespoon capers
1 teaspoon tomato paste
2 cloves garlic, crushed
4 strips red bell pepper
1 siling labuyo (bird’s eye chili), halved
1 small bay leaf
1 sterilized jar/bottle with tight lid
(240 to 250 ml capacity)

1. Fry tuyo until just cooked.


2. Flake into big chunks and then
discard bones and head.
$UUDQJHtuyo chunks inside sterilized
bottle together with capers. Set aside.
4. Sauté tomato paste in 1 tablespoon
corn oil. Add garlic, bell pepper, sili and
bay leaf. Sauté for about a minute.
5. Add remaining oil. Pour immediately
into bottled tuyo. Cool slightly and
cover. Store for up to one month in the
refrigerator.

)U\LWˉUVW
It’s easier to remove the
scales and head after you
fry the tuyo. If you want to
reduce the saltiness, just
add about a tablespoon of
vinegar.

93 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3 FOOD |2015 Issue 3 93


FOOD T OUR

Taal in
TRANSITION
Taaleños far from their
hometown are coming back to
their roots, reopening heritage
homes for a glimpse of history
and a revisit of the community’s
unique cuisine and culture
By MICHAELA FENIX
Photography by PIA PUNO

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 95


FOOD TOUR

T
he flags were flying
high from many
of the houses in
Taal, revolutionary
flags with the
letters KKK prominently
displayed. These letters, as
all Filipinos should know,
stand for the Kataastaasang
Kagalanggalangang
Katipunan of the
revolutionary army. It
was two days before
Independence Day, and
the flags were an expected
sight in this heritage town,
serving as colorful reminders
of Taal’s illustrious residents
(the ilustrado) who had
risked their economic
standing, and even their lives
in the struggle against the
Spaniards. THE ILUSTRADO
LIFESTYLE (Clockwise
Just like in many other from top) The dining area
towns in the country, many at Goco House, which
of the residents of Taal represents the way of
life of the ilustrado class
have had to leave to study in Batangas; a classic
or work in urban centers. Taal dish, the Adobo sa
The houses they left behind Dilaw (recipe on page
131); the sitting room
have deteriorated, which is an example of how
is a shame, because there the Gocos have kept
intact the cozy feel of a
is so much history in these family home in spite of
homes. There is the home of antique furnishings; a
Marcela Marino Agoncillo, simple dessert of bandi,
caramelized peanuts
who designed and made and brown sugar; an
the Philippine flag while in assortment of salads
exile in Hong Kong. Another served by the family
cook, Reggie Agoncillo
house, belonging to Don
Eulalio Villavicencio, was
where the Katipunan leaders
held their meetings—and
made their escape through a
trapdoor in the dining room
that led to an underground
tunnel, thus eluding raids
by the guardia civil. The
well-preserved home of the
late diplomat extraordinaire
Felipe Agoncillo is located
at the very entrance of the was unimpressive, its ceiling religious pilgrimage like Doña Gliceria Marella y
town, coming from the stripped of its painted the Basilica and the nearby Legaspi, who had been
Alitagtag route, his statue “fresco,” which had been Our Lady of Caysasay active in the revolution. This
standing resplendent and rolled up and stored away. Shrine, known for its well of restored mansion features
formal before the gates. Even today, few remember miraculous water. antique tiles (some broken
that the fresco had once been The great story is how tiles have been replaced by
Focus on restoration there. Taaleños are returning to copies), waxed and gleaming
My first visit to Taal 20 years What a relief to learn revitalize their ancestral wooden planks for the
ago was disappointing. Many that in the last ten years, homes, restoring them to flooring, hand-painted walls
of the houses were in a sad rehabilitation of the Basilica their old glory. A prime and carved door frames that
state of disrepair. The Basilica and the ancestral houses is example is the ancestral showcase the artistry of local
of St. Martin of Tours, being carried out. This makes home of the Villavicencios, craftsmen. On display
imposing even then, built as Taal a must-see, especially a gift from Don Eulalio are the house treasures of
it was on a high promontory, for its history and sites for Villavicencio to his wife, ornate silver.

96 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


AT HOME WITH THE
GOCOS (Clockwise from
top left) The airy living
space at Goco House
with its high ceilings and
elegant furniture; Taal
suman with a pot of hot
chocolate; Taal-style tapa
made with pork, not beef;
the Goco day tour of Taal
includes a visit to Jhun
Estacio’s halo-halo with its
XQEHOLHYDEO\ˉQHVKDYHG
ice; typical ilustrado-style
dining in Taal includes
simple homecooked meals
VHUYHGRQˉQHFKLQDDQG
silver, as in this Sopas a la
Pobre (recipe on page 131)

Sweet, familiar memories


Even with all these changes taking place, the food remains the same.
From my many visits to Taal, I have come to expect the dishes that
first introduced me to Taal’s cuisine. This happened at the home of
my first guide, Dindo Montenegro, and many of the ingredients that
made up the hometown dishes were cooked in the old wood-burning
stove. I remember how the late Ka Ely, Dindo’s mother, slow-cooked
bulanglang using vegetables gathered from her backyard. The muslo
or maliputo (jack), a prized fish from Taal Lake, was prepared two
ways: the part near the head was made into sinigang and the part near
the tail was charcoal-broiled.
In the afternoon, Dindo brought me to the cockpit to taste the
tinindag (pork barbecue). There were special skewers of pig ears,
heart and spleen (pale), flavorful from sauce made red by achuete

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 97


FOOD TOUR

(annatto). The tinindag, perhaps the


best of its kind in the country, can be
bought daily at the market where the
embers are never extinguished until late
at night.
The town is also known for its
panutsa—whole peanuts embedded in
discs of hardened brown sugar. Its name
can be confusing because, elsewhere in
the country, panutsa or panocha refers
to hardened brown sugar itself sold in
half spheres.

An ancestral home reawakens


Pio Goco worked in the United States
for years before deciding to come home
and reopen Goco House, the ancestral
home built by his great grandparents
Juan Cabrera Goco and Lorenza
Deomampo. The house is distinctive for
its rounded corners, where the capiz
windows have rounded frames, perhaps
the only one of its kind in the country.
Pio is creating a bed and breakfast
space soon so guests can sleep over.
Right now, he offers luncheon or dinner
by appointment as part of a guided
tour of Taal. On a usual day trip, he’ll
take you to see the spectacular view
of the sunset in his town as viewed
from the Basilica tower, the grim but
fascinating old cemetery meant only
for the Spaniards, perhaps followed by
a merienda of halo-halo with feathery
shaved ice made by Taal resident Jhun
Estacio.
At Goco House, the table is set
the way it must have been in the days
when such a residence required some
formality at mealtimes, with heirloom
plates, crystal and silverware. The
crocheted tablecloths were made by
Pio’s aunts, who he says used to take
care of them during their summer
vacations. Among the lunch dishes
served us was the quintessential Taal
adobo sa dilaw, chicken braised in
turmeric. Like their preference for the
yellowish adobo, the Taal version of
tapa is different too, being made of pork COLONIAL DINING (Clockwise from top) At Feliza
Taverna y Café the tables are set up in the style
instead of beef. of 19th century colonial dining; chicken galantina
What a treat to taste once more served with salsa monja; Chef Giney Villar’s
innovation is deep-fried crunchy eggplant that she
the taghilaw, in which innards of pork serves with callos
(intestine, spleen, kidney, liver) with
lean meat and brain are cooked like
paksiw, boiled in vinegar, peppercorns cook, Reggie Agoncillo, also has a way
and salt but are served dry. Pio named with salads and presented three versions
the soup sopas a la pobre perhaps to us, as well as two ways with kamias
because it was made of bulalo (beef (bilimbi), a jam that Pio had us pair with
shin) broth without the bone and its cheese (perfect!), and a relish of pickled
meat, but with misua (rice noodles) and kamias which had just the right mix of
speckled with malunggay (moringa) sweet and sour and can be partnered
leaves. The third-generation family with any fried fish.

98 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


OLD FASHIONED
ENTERTAINING (Clockwise
from top) Sinaing sa tulingan
cooking in a palayok (recipe
on page 131); Chef Giney
Villar demonstrating how to
clean tulingan; an antique
gramophone, one of the
interesting pieces in this
quaint bed and breakfast;
WKHVHFRQGˊRRUIXQFWLRQ
room at Feliza Taverna y
Café ; the welcome drink;
Chef Giney’s version of Taal
tapa which she serves with
fresh salad

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 99


FOOD TOUR

THE MANY FACETS


OF TAAL (Clockwise
from top left) Rowena
Yebra, famous for her
empanada; pan de
coco from Rosenie’s
Bakery; a glimpse of
the master’s bedroom
at Villavicencio
+RXVHˊDJVGUDSHG
from Agoncillo
House in honor of
Independence Day;
sticky sweet suman;
the suman stall run
by Marie; pancit
wrapped in paper and
banana leaves, eaten
with chopsticks; the
shrine of Our Lady
of Caysasay; (center)
Tamales

100 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


The favored fish in
Taal, and in Batangas in
general, is tulingan (big-eyed
mackerel). It’s cut like daing
(butterflied) but the two
sides are brought together,
pressed salt, then laid on a
bed of dried kamias, steamed
in low fire until the sauce
called patis is expressed.
Cooking it this way is known
as sinaing. Agoncillo says
that you’ll recognize a true
Batangueño if they serve this
fish fried.
Like Pio, many Taaleños
are now rebuilding their
heritage. Lito Perez opened
Villa Tortuga about six years
ago to serve lunch, and
make arrangements with
local guides for a tour of the
town. His main attraction is
having guests pose in period
costumes for their souvenir
photos.

Traditional tavern,
heritage meals
Chef Giney Villar closed her
restaurant Adarna in Quezon
City to open Feliza Taverna y
Café, an old-style restaurant
located in the former home of
Feliza Diokno, once secretary
to Emilio Aguinaldo. Many
of the fixtures have been
restored using original
materials like bamboo, and
employing Taal carpenters
and craftsmen who know
traditional methods. Villar
also refurbished two
bedrooms, making up her
small B&B.
Giney’s version of the MARKET DAY (Clockwise from
sinaing na tulingan deviates top left) Vangie Pasumbal sells
pancit and tamales only from 4
slightly from the traditional. to 9 AM daily; the reddish native
She doesn’t press salt into the barbecue called tinindag; Taal-
fish or butterfly-cut it, but style empanada is rich and hefty
keeps it whole with salt just
added. Giney is known to (stuffed chicken) had salsa drivers were eating breakfast known for her tamales, a
travel around the country to monja (Spanish sauce made from cone-shaped paper rice concoction shaped into
learn the proper procedure of shallots, olives and torn containers lined with small squares and wrapped
for preparing heritage food. bread pieces with olive oil) banana leaf. The pancit in banana leaves. It’s a local
She presented other ways on the side. was wrapped in the style of favorite, with tangy sauce
of serving her menu such as the balisungsung or cone, and smooth rice paste, so that
tapang baboy with a salad Of suman, pancit easy to display and to hold supply had run out by the
of greens and fruits, callos and pan de coco when eating. Some people time we arrived—luckily we
paired with fried eggplant Walking to the market prefer to eat this pancit with got a tip that a stall inside the
in place of the berenjena the next morning, we saw chopsticks, but plastic forks market still had some.
(eggplant salad), and instead tricycles parked near Vico’s are available, too. Owner We hurried over to find
of gravy, the galantina Pancit, where the vehicles’ Vangie Pasumbal is also a few tamales pieces left,

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 101


FOOD TOUR

and a lot of suman malagkit


(cylindrical rice cakes).
These are the best suman
in town, made with sticky
rice of the sungsong variety
mixed with a little ordinary
rice, combining the right
sweetness with a semi-soft
consistency, so that one tends
to eat more than a piece.
In a busy corner,
empanada (turnovers) was
being made—cooking the
filling of chicken or pork or
vegetables, stuffing the filling
into the pastry, frying the
finished empanada. Bong
and Weng’s Empanada stall
is also a carinderia offering
cooked food and halo-halo
for hungry locals and tourists
alike. Weng inherited the
empanada recipe from her
father, added chicken and
pork variety and tweaked Most visitors see Taal for just one day, but for a more relaxed and extensive experience it’s best
the batter. The buyers are to stay the night. We loved Paradores del Castillo, perhaps the most luxurious of the many bed-
constant and her whole and-breakfasts in town. Exquisitely restored with antique furnishings and with gardens shaded
troupe also has to fill the by fruit trees overlooking the neighboring town of Lemery and Balayan Bay, it’s an experience
orders for the day. The casing in itself. paradoresdetaal.com
is firm but crisp and the filling
has that well-cooked creamy
chicken, beef, pork mixture. Goco Ancestral House
We walked round the Marella corner Del Castillo Streets,
street corner to the old Taal, Batangas
bakery I had visited on an (0917) 373-7346
earlier trip while researching Facebook: Goco-Ancestral-House
about panaderia. There was
no signage, but we were told Feliza Taverna y Café
to ask for Rosenie’s Bakery. 6 Calle Felipe Agoncillo, Barangay
The pan de sal this bakery Poblacion, Taal, Batangas
is known for had run out so (043) 740-0113
we tried buho, what they call
pan de coco (bread with a Bong and Weng’s Empanada
sweetened coconut filling). Taal Public Market, (0915) 778-5825
We left Taal late that
afternoon, satisfied that Vico’s Pancit
we had done our rounds of 39 A. de las Alas Street beside Taal
ancestral homes, finished Public Market, (0908) 210-1502
our pilgrimage and blessed Open from 4 AM to 9 AM
ourselves with holy water
from the well, slept in Villa Tortuga
comfort and eaten the best Taal, Batangas, (0927) 975-1682
food the town has to offer. lito_pperez@yahoo.com
Still we wondered how
special Independence Day Villavincencio Wedding
would really be in Taal given Gift House
its history. For sure, the 32 Casa Gliceria Marella, Taal
flags will fly proudly—the (0920) 777-6271
flag of the Katipunan and
the flag of the Republic that Just a few hours from Manila, Taal is easy to access through Nimfa, Marie & Lestie Special
either the Alitagtag Road or via Tagaytay. For the most
was designed and sewn by comfortable, luxurious ride, the Nissan X-Trail provides a smooth Suman
Taaleño Marcela Marino journey with plenty of space for legroom, luggage and other Stall 289, Taal Public Market
Agoncillo. gear. Just hop aboard and drive. (0920) 777-6271

102 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


Taal Taghilaw

Sopas a la Pobre Sinaing na


Recipe from Goco Tulingan
Ancestral House Recipe by Giney Villar,
courtesy of Reggie Feliza Taverna y Café
Agoncillo Serves 6
Serves 6 to 8
banana leaf, for lining
1 kilo bulalo bones,  DQGZUDSSLQJˉVK
cut into pieces 1 kilo tulingan, about
8 cups water 4 to 6 pieces
2 tablespoons sea salt, to taste
cooking oil about 12 pieces dried Taal Adobo sa Taal Taghilaw Pinindot
1 onion, chopped kamias Dilaw Recipe from Goco Recipe by Giney Villar,
3 cloves garlic, 1 piece ginger, diced Recipe from Goco Ancestral House Feliza Taverna y Café
minced 150 grams pork fat Ancestral House courtesy of Reggie Serves 6 to 8
2 packs misua noodles water, enough to courtesy of Reggie Agoncillo
salt and pepper, to  FRYHUˉVK Agoncillo Serves 8 4 cups coconut milk,
taste Serves 6 second extraction
2 cups malunggay 1. Line a pot with 2 tablespoons cooking 350 grams galapong
leaves a piece of banana 2 tablespoons cooking oil   ULFHˊRXU VHWDVLGH
leaf. Clean tulingan. oil 1 onion, chopped about 1/4 cup
1. Simmer bulalo Remove tail by 2 tablespoons 1 tablespoon minced 2 cups coconut cream,
bones in a pot for twisting and pulling sliced luyang dilaw garlic  ˉUVWH[WUDFWLRQ
about one hour. Skim RII5XEˉVKZLWKVDOW (turmeric) 1 kilo pork loin 1 1/2 cups white
scum off the surface. and rinse until there is 1 onion, chopped (lomo), cut into sugar
Set aside. no more blood in the 3 cloves garlic, strips 1/4 cup tapioca
2. In another pot, heat rinsing water. minced 1 pork heart, boiled 1/2 teaspoon roasted
cooking oil and sauté 2. Wrap banana leaf 1 kilo chicken or pork, and cut into strips anise seeds
onion and garlic. Pour VWULSVDURXQGˉVK cut into cubes 1/2 kilo small pork
in beef stock together heads to keep them salt or patis, to taste intestine (isaw), 1. In a pot, simmer
with the bones. Bring from falling off cracked pepper, to boiled and sliced coconut milk on low
to a boil. during cooking. Layer taste into 1-inch long heat until reduced to
3. Add misua and tulingan in the pot and water, enough to pieces about 75%.
simmer. Season with top with salt, kamias, cover meat 1/4 kilo pork liver, 2. Roll galapong into
salt and pepper. Add ginger and pork fat. 1/4 cup vinegar boiled and cut into small balls. Using
malunggay leaves. 3. Add enough water strips your thumb, make a
Serve hot. WRFRYHUˉVK&RRNIRU 1. In a pan, heat salt and pepper, to small depression in
8 hours on low heat. cooking oil. Sauté taste each galapong ball.
Add water as needed. luyang dilaw, onion water, enough to Set aside.
Let cool. and garlic until cover meat 3. Dissolve reserved
4. Cook again the fragrant. Add chicken 1/2 cup vinegar, or to 1/4 cup of galapong
next day on low heat or pork and cook until taste in coconut cream. Set
for 6 to 8 hours until lightly brown. Season 3 green chilies aside.
liquid is reduced and with salt and pepper. 4. Add sugar to the
ˊDYRUIXO7KHGLVK 2. Pour in water and 1. In a casserole, simmering coconut
is ready when the vinegar. Cover and heat cooking oil and milk. Bring to a
ˉVKERQHVDUHWHQGHU simmer for about 20 sauté onion and boil until sugar is
enough to eat. You minutes, or until meat garlic. Add pork loin, dissolved.
can keep reheating is fork-tender and heart, intestine and 5. Add tapioca and
this for days since the liquid is reduced to liver. Cook for about cook until half done.
ˊDYRULPSURYHVWKH half. 10 minutes, stirring Add galapong balls
longer it is kept. 3. Transfer to a occasionally. Season and cook, stirring
serving platter. Serve with salt and pepper. until half done.
with rice. 2. Pour in water and 6. Add the coconut
vinegar. Let simmer cream-galapong
for about 30 to 45 mixture and bring to a
minutes or until meat boil. Stir. The mixture
is tender. Add chilies. should be very gooey
Serve hot. when done. Add
roasted anise seeds.

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 103


EVENTS
Restaurants Go Digital
The first Zomato Restaurant Summit helps restaurants get ahead in today’s digital age

RESTAURANT TREND WATCH (Clockwise from left) Linguini Fini’s


take on Italian comfort food; Filipino food advocates, from left, Chef
Sau del Rosario, Chef Tristan Encarnacion, Michaela Fenix, Margaux
Salcedo and Chef Rob Pengson; keynote speaker Domingo Ramon
Enerio III of the Tourism Promotions Board

H
ow can restaurants
achieve success in
Zomato in One Click
ȧ=RPDWRZDVIRXQGHGLQ
today’s digital era?
New Delhi, India in 2008 by
This question among
Deepinder Goyal and Pankaj
others was tackled
Chaddah. Since then, it has
during the first ever Zomato
become the world’s largest
Restaurant Summit held
online and mobile restaurant
last May 19 at the Makati
discovery service with over
Shangri-La Hotel. With
one million restaurants
the theme “Conquering the
across 22 countries.
Digital Age,” the summit
ȧ7KURXJKWKH=RPDWRDSS
covered issues like brand
or website, you can gain
building, service excellence,
access to restaurant listings
wooing millennials, food
with menus, photos, reviews
tourism and the evolution of
and geocoded coordinates
Filipino restaurants, among Marriott International.
accessed by over 80 million
many topics discussed during
visitors globally each month.
the whole-day event. ȕʕ,¿ì–×Þʕ©¿ʕÞ¦–ʕ¿–íʕ’©¡©Þ~¸ʕ
ȧ=RPDWR3KLOLSSLQHV
Zomato gathered marketplace which boasts
ERDVWVWKHKLJKHVWWUDIˉF
an influential group of over 40 million Filipinos
globally with an average of
restaurateurs who listened online, explained Francis
11 million app and website
to a host of speakers from Oliva of PLDT SME
visits monthly, accessing info
different fields who shared NATION.
on over 11,000 restaurants
the latest trends and ideas
in Metro Manila, Antipolo,
relevant to the industry. ȕʕ@©Œ¶óʕ#–¿©òʕÄáÞ¸©¿–’ʕ
Tagaytay, and soon Cebu.
Here’s a sampling: eating as a social experience, the evolution of Filipino
Visit www.zomato.com
in order to fashion concepts restaurants, while Chefs Sau
ȕʕ¿Þ©Œ©Ð~ޖʕÞӖ¿’×ʕ~¿’ʕ that fit, said Abba Napa of del Rosario, Rob Pengson
events, and take advantage The Moment Group (8Cuts, and Tristan Encarnacion
of these to connect with Mecha Uma, ‘Cue, Bistro du discussed the importance technology and ever
your customers. Be a part of Vin, Linguini Fini). of finding inspiration from evolving social media, the
the conversation in the lives our culinary traditions while industry needs find ways to
of your consumers, shared ȕʕ$–ÞʕÞÄʕ¶¿ÄíʕóÄáÓʕ maintaining these traditions’ keep up. With the summit,
Margot Torres, SVP for customers as expressive integrity. Zomato hopes to let the
marketing of McDonald’s. individuals, savvy and industry know that we
opinionated, experienced Anton Ojeda, country are here to lead the sector
ȕʕ:–~Ó¿ʕ~‹ÄáÞʕÞ¦–ʕ#©¸©Ð©¿Äʕ and indulgent, simple and manager of Zomato and help them take their
diner and his preferences, authentic, explained Brian Philippines, declares, “In businesses to a whole new
like the love for food and Winton, general manager of the advent of fast changing level.”

104 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


A LECHON FIESTA BY Celebrities Shared Recipes
PEPITA’S KITCHEN AT at Open Kitchen
DIAMOND HOTEL The UP Town Center Amphitheater was filled with showbiz
stars, their fans and food lovers who converged for “Best-
Dedet dela Fuente, owner of Pepita’s Kitchen, began serving kept Recipes of the Stars,” a three-day food market organized
her lechon degustation at private dinners in her home. Her by Deo Endrinal, owner of The Clean Plate and founder
stuffed lechon de leche comes in various variants, and has made of Dreamscape Entertainment. Judy Ann Santos-Agoncillo
her famous, attracting long lines at the World Food Congress shared her appetizing Dirty Breakfast recipe, as well as
in Singapore, and garnering Chowtzer’s “Tastiest dish in Asia” launched her bestselling cookbook, Judy Ann’s Kitchen.
award. Her next venue was at Corniche in Diamond Hotel, Must-tries included Sam Milby’s coffee concoctions at the
where her lechon took centerstage at the week-long Feasts from Third District Café, Vice Ganda’s delectable Rice Ganda,
the Filipino Kitchen buffet. Bestsellers were her truffled rice Aiza Seguerra’s Adobo in a Jar, fried chicken skin dipped in
and sisig rice lechon, but the buffet did offer other favorites from chocolate from JC de Vera’s The Burgery, and ABS-CBN
her Hayop sa Degustation menu, including Hiplog (shrimp and anchor Anthony Taberna’s Tunying’s Bread, among others.
salted egg) and Bone Marrow with Oxtail Marmalade. Diamond There were also mini-concerts by Kapamilya stars Angeline
Hotel’s chefs added to the Filipino menu with innovative Quinto, KZ Tandingan, Erik Santos, Kyla, Markki Stroem, and
dishes like Goto with Foie Gras and Balut Salpicao. The dining The Voice of the Philippines stars Bradley Holmes and Daryl
experience was rich, adventurous and irresistible. Roxas Ong. Open Kitchen satisfied everyone’s cravings and served
Boulevard corner Dr. J. Quintos Street, Manila, (02) 305-3000 as a chance for our local stars to show their culinary talent.

Happy Birthday, Purple Yam Manila!


Purple Yam Manila ingredients sourced from Carinderia, was dusted and edamame; crab claws in
celebrated its first all over the archipelago. with toasted pinipig cashew sampaloc garlic paste; and
anniversary with an intimate Hence, for starters, there and homemade chicharon. fresh sea shrimps in Vuqo
dinner last July. The menu, was a Noritaco made with Standouts included heirloom coconut vodka. The evening
designed by owner Amy adlai garnished with uni rice from Benguet and ended with a PYM halo halo
Besa, highlighted favorite sourced from Sorsogon. Mountain Province, fried bar. For reservations, call
signature dishes using local Pancit Pusit, from Asiong’s with shiitake mushrooms (02) 523-3497

PURPLE YAM
TURNS ONE (From
left) Celebrating
with buko pie
instead of cake; the
appetizer, noritaco
with adlai and uni;
broiled maya maya
with shallots and
mango vinegar
sauce; Amy Besa
blowing out the
candle; the Purple
Yam kitchen crew

FOOD |2015 Issue 3 105


EVENTS

TASTES LIKE PINOY SPIRIT


Filipino flavors and flair in focus at the 2nd FOOD Tastings Class
By ANGELI DE RIVERA

A FOOD-FILLED
AFTERNOON
(Clockwise from top)
Culinary experts JP
Anglo, Katherine Jao
and Sharwin Tee;
participants make
a beeline for the
demo dishes; Pancit
Canton with Maling
Pork Leg

H
ow do we define Filipino inadobo, sarsiado, sinigang this variety and techniques Tastings class was all about
food? Is it through its or sinuglaw? How ever we from which Filipino flavors capturing and savoring local
indelible ingredients such identify Filipino food is are made, that makes it flavors using new ways to
as suka, bagoong, patis, toyo ultimately personal—but it’s so refreshing to reinvent cook familiar dishes with the
and calamansi? Maybe it’s also why it’s fun and exciting every time. In keeping with theme “Let’s Cook Pinoy.”
with the homegrown method to cook or eat these dishes FOOD Magazine’s 20th year Held last June 6 at Sarsa
of cooking dishes like in every way possible. It’s anniversary, the 2nd FOOD Kitchen + Bar in Mall of

106 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3


Asia, the event was very well
attended by guests eager to
learn and taste the event’s
offerings.
Each featured chef
showcased their prepared
dish. Chef Sharwin Tee,
host of Curiosity Got The
Chef, started off the demo
with his unique take on the
classic Binagoogang Baboy
by making it into a hearty
BB Burger. Next, chef
consultant and food stylist OLD FAVORITES,
Katherine Jao showed how NEW FLAVORS
to make traditional dishes (From top)
A beautiful spread
like adobo, pork barbecue of Filipino viands as
and even dinuguan more styled by Katherine
Jao; Chef JP Anglo
appetizing with practical shows his plated
food styling tips. Sarsa’s Chef creations; Sharwin
JP Anglo prepared three Tee’s mouth-
watering BB Burger;
Pinoy dishes with unique an impressive plate
twists: Pancit Canton using of Sinuglaw; tasty
Maling Pork Leg, Sinuglaw Lapu-lapu topped
with Pinoy Sambal
made with fresh tangigue Sauce
kinilaw and grilled pork
liempo, plus Baked Lapu-
lapu complemented with
sambal sauce, Pinoy-style.
Guests were even asked
to be volunteers during
the demos making it a
fun interaction between
participants and the featured
chefs. This event was
sponsored by Datu Puti and
La Filipina pasta.
CHEF KATHERINE JAO’S FOOD STYLING TIPS:
Watch out for the next
1. Pick the right food vessel. Choose neutral
FOOD Tastings class colors to help enhance the food.
this September. For more 2. Little is more. Don’t overcrowd the plate.
information, visit FOOD 3. Use garnish that is applicable to the dish.
Magazine on Facebook Make it pretty and practical too!
(facebook.com/foodmag). 4. Use whatever props are available. Salt and
pepper shakers on you table? Even a spoon
on the dish makes a big difference.
5. Imperfection is perfection itself. A little
smear on the plate? Some crumbs falling
off? Make it part of the shot.
A Cook and a Patriot
Yana Gilbuena cooked Filipino pop-up dinners all over the
United States—and now she’s done it in the Philippines, too
By TROY BARRIOS

J
Photos courtesy of YANA GILBUENA

ust like her cooking, featured a five-course inevitable on the menu, was dinner, liquid chef consultant
Yana Gilbuena is menu designed by Yana in placed in a glass bottle, with Ervin Kalel Demetrio created
dynamic, intriguing, partnership with Chef Panky the smoky chicken meat a trio of cocktails using
inventive and Lopez. Just reading through rich with annatto seasoning Destileria Limtuaco’s Pinoy-
unfailingly patriotic. the description of the dishes and ready to be poured over inspired liquors, and coffee
Her pet project, The Salo pricks the curiosity and garlic rice. A lechon kawali was served by KKK Coffee.
Seriest, saw her whip up makes the mouth water. The was paired with paper- Thirty percent of the
50 Filipino-themed pop-up inspiration is traditional thin crisp ube and camote proceeds of each dinner goes
dinners in 50 U.S. states in Ilonggo cuisine but served chips, with sinamak on the to Yana’s chosen charity.
50 weeks. Yana was back in up with a cool, inventive side. Even Ponti’s signature Currently it’s the Relief
Manila last June for a trio spin. porchetta became “Ilonggo- Contingency Plan by The
of pop-up dinners, a rare The batchoy for instance, fied” with the infusion of National Alliance for Filipino
opportunity for Manileños was served deconstructed, lemongrass and served Concerns for victims of
to get a taste of her culinary Tsukemen style, with the with oyster mushrooms typhoon. We can’t wait for
magic. noodles separate from the and kangkong drizzled with Yana’s next series of Salo
The first dinner, called broth and topped with bits of bagoong. For dessert, there dinners.
“Migo Miga Ilonggo crisp chicharon, roasted garlic was avocado panna cotta
Moderno,” was held at Il and tender Japanese-style with condensed milk and To learn more, visit
Ponticello in Makati and pork belly. Chicken inasal, crispy pinipig.To round off thesaloproject.com

POP-UP FILIPINO STYLE (Clockwise


from top left) Tsukemen style
batchoy with liempo; chicken inasal
in a jar; Yana Gilbuena; Il Ponticello
goes native with banana leaf;
avocado panna cotta with pinipig

108 FOOD | 2015 Issue 3

Potrebbero piacerti anche