Documenti di Didattica
Documenti di Professioni
Documenti di Cultura
Issue 3,2015
FREE
4 week
Cook Healthy
(but not quite guilt free!)
Low-cal dishes
Hearty salads
Good-for-you
“fatty” food
The Big
Breakfast
Issue
15+ must-try recipes
for breakfast, brunch
50
or any time of the day
PLUS:
Where to have
brunch on weekends
Eggs Rule!
Shakshouka
by Wildflour
Café + Bakery
Happy Eating
Editor-In-Chief
contributors
Tin Samson Miko Aspiras
felt like is one of the
“coming home” industry’s most
to produce well-regarded
this issue’s young pastry
Entertaining chefs. He has
brunch feature. won dozens of
From being awards both
the former here and abroad
associate editor for his creative, innovative desserts.
of FOOD Magazine, Tin Samson Together with Chef Kristine Lotilla,
now contributes to FOOD and he owns and runs one of the only
other magazines, and also works Paul Del Rosario shoots for several craft cookie shops in the Philippines,
in her family’s bakeshop. Tin loves magazines like Working Mom Scout’s Honor, and the Japanese-
everything Disney, Harry Potter, and and Metro Home. In this issue, he French bistro Le Petit Soufflé and
theater, and hopes to travel the whole composed the beautiful food shots in shares a few of its special dessert
world someday, find her prince, and Cook it 5 Ways and Home Basics. recipes in Home Basics.
have twin baby girls!
sensible
Nancy Dizon-
Edralin, recipe
developer and food
stylist
snacks
Red Lentil
Hummus
Serves 2
Method:
UÊ Preheat oven to 375°F. Brush Dari Creme on bottom and sides of 6 to
8 ramekin cups.
UÊ Use ¼ cup Dari Creme to spread on each slice of pan de sal. Toast
until golden. When cool, slice into cubes and distribute bread cubes
evenly in ramekin cups. ;PUHWH
UÊ In a bowl, whisk eggs and ½ cup sugar until frothy. Add melted 6TLSL[[L
Dari Creme to the heated milk and slowly pour into egg mixture while 7PaaH
continuing to whisk. Pour milk-egg mixture evenly over bread cubes.
Sprinkle grated cheese and remaining 2 tablespoons sugar on top
of each ramekin. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes or until top is golden and
pudding puffs up.
UÊ While pudding is baking, make the caramel sauce. In a small
saucepan, melt Dari Creme and sugar over low heat until sugar
caramelizes. Pour in cream and let simmer until the hardened
caramel melts completely. Serve with the warm pudding.
ely Day
3/4 cup Dari Creme Classic, reserve 1/4 cup and melt 1/2 cup
for the batter
1 large white onion, chopped
1 cup canned tuna flakes, drained
1 can whole corn kernels
1 medium red bell pepper, diced
1 400-gram pack Magnolia Pancake & Waffle Mix
1 tablespoon sugar
;\UHHUK 2 eggs, lightly beaten
*VYU4\MÄUZ ½ cup Magnolia PureFresh Natural Cow’s Milk
Method:
UÊ Preheat oven to 375°F. Brush holes and surface of muffin pan
with reserved 2 tablespoons Dari Creme. Set aside.
UÊ In a large pan, sauté onions in remaining 2 tablespoons of Dari
Creme until transparent. Add tuna flakes and cook until excess
liquid evaporates. Fold in corn and bell pepper in the last minute
of cooking. Transfer to a bowl and let it cool.
UÊ Combine pancake & waffle mix and sugar in a large bowl. Make
a well in the center and add ½ cup melted Dari Creme, eggs
and milk. Stir using a wire whisk or wooden spoon just until dry
ingredients are moistened; batter should still be lumpy. Fold in
sautéed tuna mixture.
UÊ Spoon batter into muffin pans almost to the brim. Bake for 10
to 12 minutes until top rises and feels dry to the touch. Remove
from the oven and cool on a wire rack. Serve warm.
Honey-Dari Creme
Glazed Chicken Fingers
Makes 6 servings
Ingredients
½ kilo chicken breast fillet, sliced 1 cup water
into thick strips vegetable oil for deep-frying
1 teaspoon paprika
½ teaspoon garlic powder Honey-Dari Creme Glaze:
½ teaspoon onion powder 3/4 cup honey
1 teaspoon salt ¼ cup Dari Creme Classic
½ teaspoon ground black pepper ½ teaspoon paprika
1 cup Magnoila All Purpose Flour Salt and pepper to taste
1 cup cassava flour seasoned with Pinch chilli flakes, optional
1 teaspoon salt
Method:
UÊ Place chicken strips in a bowl. Combine paprika, garlic powder,
onion powder, salt and pepper and use to season chicken.
Dredge each piece in flour. Set aside.
UÊ In a non-stick pan, heat oil over medium fire. Deep-fry chicken
/VUL`+HYP*YLTL strips a few pieces at a time until golden. Drain on paper towels.
.SHaLK*OPJRLU UÊ Dissolve seasoned cassava flour in water. Coat cooked chicken
-PUNLYZ strip in cassava mixture and fry a second time until crisp. Repeat
with the rest of the chicken strips.
UÊ To make the glaze, place honey in a medium saucepan and let
simmer until slightly reduced, about 5 minutes. Turn off heat and
whisk in Dari Creme. Season with paprika, salt, pepper and chilli
flakes, if desired. Brush over chicken fingers and serve the rest
of the sauce on the side.
The
Breakfast
Issue
30
We Love Eggs
They simply make
breakfast better
By Anne Marie Ozaeta
38
In Search
of Philippine Coffee
We used to be one of
the world’s biggest
coffee producers. So
what happened?
By Troy Barrios
MENU
GUIDE
Vol. 1, Issue 3
Regulars
2 Starter
3 FOOD Loves
11 Tastings Entertaining
102 Events
59 The Beauty of Brunch
Columns Easy, elegant and
leisurely—is there a better
21 Sweet Stuff way to start your day?
A luxurious apple tart By Tin Samson
By Joey E. Prats
Home Basics
22 Farm Tales
The grain called adlai 78 Light and Right
By Sandra F. Celi Fill up with these hefty salads
By Mitchie Sison
23 Key Ingredient
Cooking with kale 81 Simply Desserts
By Jill F. Sandique French desserts with
a Japanese touch
24 Wellness By Miko Aspiras
The myth of the bad egg
By Gerry H. Tan 84 Cooking Class
Make the best waffles
Dining Out By Pixie Rodrigo Sevilla
59 Cook It 5 Ways
Celebrating the good fats
By Tina Concepcion Diaz
contents Issue 3, 2015
RECIPE BOX
Breakfast 87 Protein overload Mains 67Pasta with browned
87 Bacon, egg and waffles 58 Baked fish tacos with butter and sage
tomato croissants 76 Smoked ham and mango salsa 80 Stuffed eggplant with
84 Basic waffles cheese savory muffins 58 Beef tenderloin steaks mushrooms
93 Bottled dried herring 36 Shakshouka with red wine sauce
with capers in corn 36 Wildflour breakfast 48 Dinuguan Desserts
oil with sausage 48 Dinuguan risotto 47 Barako coffee jelly
91 Bottled salmon belly caldo 21 French apple tart
with thyme and lemon Starters 22 Endulsao Chavacano 67 Lemon olive oil cake
in olive oil 79 5-spice prawn salad 49 Huevos rotos 81 Matcha and dark
92 Bottled tawilis with with avocado-mango 58 Prawns in red curry chocolate millefeuille
stuffed olives toss sauce 80 Peaches n’ creme
76 Breakfast banh mi 78 Chicken tandoori 103 Sinaing na tulingan Japanese pancake
85 Breakfast cereal kalabasa quinoa salad 58 Spicy chicken lettuce soufflé
waffles 80 Grilled kesong puti wraps 103 Pinindot
67 Breakfast granola and basil pizza topped 103 Taal adobo sa dilaw 79 Strawberry and yuzu
56 Breakfast steak and with melon salad 103Taal taghilaw lime pavlova
eggs 90 Potato and squash 48 Tuna roe and sperm
76 Chocolate pancakes crisps sac risotto, pata Drinks
with bananas and 3 Red lentil hummus Negros 47 Spiced coffee
caramel sauce 49 Shoestring potatoes 82 Sweet sunrise
76 Chorizo and egg 103 Sopas a la pobre Sides
quesadilla 67 Spring roll salad with 76Baked ziti with
36 Chorizo fundido peanut sauce bangers and mushrooms
86 Nola waffles 36 Wildflour salad 67 Marble potato
casserole
Editor-in-Chief Anne Marie Ozaeta Head, ABS-CBN Publishing, Inc. Ernesto L. Lopez
Managing Director Mark Yambot
Content and Editorial Director Christina N. Lopez
Managing Editor Regina Troy Barrios
Associate Publishers Abigail Pel
Finance Manager Rowena D. Dote
Art Director Noel Avendaño Finance Supervisor Sheryl A. Baria
API Ad Sales Head Phillip Cu-Unjieng, Monica
Associate Editor Ginny Mata Herrera, Racquel Valeriano Celi
Account Executives Dave Dera, Euniz Sunga, Jane Ramirez,
Copy Editor Romelda C. Ascutia Iaree Anico, Jenny Dayao, Melanie Magtira, Vanessa
Pinlac, Michelle Sy-Yap, Roselyn Bisquera
Nutritionist & Recipe Tester Cecilia R. Esperanza, rnd Digital Sales Manager Rex Anthony Fontanoza
Advertising Traffic Assistant Rizza Miralles
Healthy Meals to Go
Eating right has never been more convenient
By GINNY MATA
Photography by OCS ALVAREZ | Styling by BEL ALVAREZ
T
here’s never been a better market bland and unsatisfactory, to people who want to lose weight,
time to eat healthy. While they formulated their own diet plans, but also to those who have ailments
diet delivery services have and made nutritious, delicious and which require special diets (e.g.
been around for some time, satisfying meals for themselves. Out of diabetes, cancer, kidney problems, etc.).
nowadays there are dozens that came the entrepreneurial desire Thus, many of these services are fully
more to choose from that fit any to share their expertise with others. personalized and customizable. All these
dietary requirement, budget and Collaborating with chefs, dietitians packages include at least three meals per
location. and nutritionists, they have made day, unless stated otherwise.
What these healthy meal delivery eating healthy much more interesting
services have in common is that their and convenient for people with busy
founders all succeeded in losing schedules who may not have the time
weight by eating more healthfully. to cook for themselves.
Finding existing diet food in the These services don’t only cater
BETTER HEALTH PH
offers all-natural, gluten-
free, grain-free, dairy-free,
sugar-free, salt-free meals
in recyclable packaging,
delivered in a beautifully
designed “lunch box” for
easier transport. Packages
range from 1,200 to 2,000
calories per day, and come
in 3-day, 5-day, 10-day and
20-day sets, starting at P650
per day. betterhealthph.com
Penne pasta a la
cubana
MDF DIET TO GO
was started by dietitian
Michelle Fabella and her
husband Chef Dean Noel
Fabella in 2009. They
don’t believe in doing
DȟRQHVL]HˉWVDOOȠGLHW
Michelle personally meets
with all her clients to do
nutrition assessment and
weekly monitoring of their LUNCHBOX DIET provides
weight progress. Meals portion-controlled healthy,
start at P1,200 per day. balanced meals that range from
Facebook.com/pages/ 1,200 to 2,000 calories per
DIET-to-GO day, starting at P1,700/week.
Their executive chef likes using
ingredients that are fresh and
in season, and makes sure to
limit the amount of salt, sugar,
and fat content in their meals.
DIET BUDDY PH is Facebook.com/lunchboxdietph
one of the most affordable
diet delivery services
here. They specialize in
favorite Filipino dishes like
homemade chicken tocino,
beef tapa and lean pork Herbed chicken with
hamonado, but they also sweet potato mash and
green beans
try to avoid repeating their
meals within the month
so that their ‘diet buddies’
won’t get tired of them.
Their packages range from
P1,700 (1,200 calories/
day) to P1,900 (2,000
calories/day) for 5 days.
Facebook.com/
DietBuddyPhilippines
books
The Third Plate Judy Ann’s Kitchen By Buttercream Flowers Simply Delicious: 50
By Dan Barber Judy Ann Santos-Agoncillo By Valeri Valeriano and Years of Good Food
Top New York chef Dan Her love for food brought Christina Ong from Maya
Barber chronicles his trips her to publish her very own Learn essential techniques In celebration of having been
to farming communities cookbook. Teleserye queen of piping floral decorations part of Philippine households
around the world. From the Judy Ann Santos-Agoncillo for cakes and cupcakes from for more than 50 years, The
Spanish dehesa to ancient shares her well-loved recipes this London-based Filipino Maya Kitchen just released
tuna fishing and mixed- sectioned according to duo. From buttercream its new cookbook featuring
crop organic farms, among phases in her life—recipes recipes, basic petal strokes, over 150 kitchen-tested
other destinations, Barber she grew up with, meals color mixing to creating recipes. Enjoy stories and
builds a panorama of ethical she prepares for her friends multi-tiered cakes, this anecdotes from its 50 years
and flavorful eating with and family, and her personal book simplifies the steps for of history. Learn how to
the vision to refashion favorites—all contained in beginners and those who cook all-time favorites like
Americans’ deepest beliefs this best selling cookbook. wish to master cake flower Brazo de Mercedes, Silvanas,
about food. Available at National designs. Black Forest, Ube Macapuno
Available at Fully Booked Bookstore Available at Fully Booked Roll and Pineapple Upside-
Down Cake. Available
Jamie Oliver’s Comfort at National Bookstore and
Food By Jamie Oliver Powerbooks
This global celebrity chef ’s
latest book is all about the
food you really want to eat,
made exactly how you like
it. The book features exciting
and new versions of all-time
favorites like ramen and katsu
curry, super eggs Benedict,
and scrumptious sticky toffee
pudding, among others, and
also introduces cherished
dishes from countries around
the world
Available at Fully Booked APP
Photography by OCS ALVAREZ
Styling by BEL ALVAREZ Wine ‘n Dine
Foodies will surely love
TV website this photo sharing app
dedicated to food pics
only. Wine ‘n Dine allows
users to tag the restaurant
CHEF NEXT DOOR their featured dish is
This entertaining cooking show follows Chef Jonas from, giving followers the
opportunity to create lists
Ng as he goes about his high-pressure job in the of their favorites. It also
professional kitchen with a generous dose of wit, has unique features such as
science and humor. Head chef and owner of Huat “Wanna Try” and “Discover”
Pot Hotpot Restaurant and Le Jardin, Chef Jonas shares that help users answer two
restaurant-quality questions we often ask
every day: where and what
recipes, tips and hacks
to eat. Available at the
learned throughout NERDY NUMMIES App Store and Google Play
his ten years in the Check out this geeky cooking show on
industry. YouTube hosted by Rosanna Pansino.
Airs Mondays 10 Ro makes nerdy themed goodies. Her
PM, Tuesdays 5:30 famous creations include a Star Trek
AM, Wednesdays Voyager Cake, Harry Potter Golden
5:30 PM, Fridays Snitch Caramel Apple Cider, Pacman
12 AM and 9:30 Jello Jigglers, and Guardians of the
PM on the Lifestyle Galaxy Groot themed cookies, among
Network many others. Her channel has four
million subscribers and an average of
75 million views per month. www.
youtube.com/rosannapansino
HIDDEN
Be like the tourist who’s
thrown away his guidebook,
and join us as we poke about
the whimsical Poblacion
MAKATI
Crying Tiger
Street Kitchen
district in Makati
By TROY BARRIOS
El Chupacabra
I was there on a rainy
evening and the spatter of
raindrops didn’t seem to
matter. The place was still
jammed with diners wolfing
down the signature Street
Tacos in their soft shells—in
variants such as Carne Asada,
Baja Cal Fish Taco, Chorizo
con Papas and Vegeteriano.
Order some grilled boneless
chicken skewers, a bowl Juan, a social media expert exclusively Philippine and Cueritos Enfurtidos
of chili con carne (with obsessed with Philippine coffee, and soon there will (chicharones with salsa rojo),
a tortilla) and some cold coffee, Commune is not be local craft beers, too. a Taco sampler. The tequila
beer. You can even keep just a café but a place for Durban Street, is the real draw. If you’re a
track of the latest basketball people to gather and be Poblacion, Makati beginner, nurse a cocktail,
game by listening (and part of a community. The perhaps a margarita, and
watching via) the sports bar menu features rice meals A’Toda Madre expose yourself to a little
across the narrow street. like nilagang pork ribs or Right across the street tequila education. If you’re a
5782 Felipe corner Polaris chicken adobo made with from Hotel Durban, this pro, you might want a sip of
Street, Makati, (02) 895-1919 sustainable and/or organic tiny joint is the first tequila the Partida Elegante, one of
ingredients, all-day breakfasts bar in Manila carrying the most expensive tequilas
Commune (chicken longanisa, pork over 89 varieties of this in the world—it will set you
Cafe + Bar tocino), a harvest of veggie divine liquor. The menu is back by P2,800 per shot.
Now this is a stellar café that dishes and deli sandwiches. very spare. There’s Elotes G/F Sunette Tower, Durban
is unabashedly, wonderfully It’s also the only Third Wave Callejeros (grilled and Street corner Makati
Pinoy. The brainchild of Ros café in the city that carries buttered Mexican corn) Avenue, Poblacion, Makati
F
6W\OLQJE\ NANCY DIZON-EDRALIN
ADLAI IN FASHION
No longer just an alternative to rice
and corn, this local grain is becoming
a favorite among local chefs
Photography by PAUL DEL ROSARIO
Styling by TINA CONCEPCION DIAZ
E
ver heard of exotic grains complement to hearty meat
like quinoa, bulgur, dishes.
amaranth? They’ve Adlai has a neutral taste,
become popular and making it a perfect carrier for
trendy among health other flavors. You can cook it
enthusiasts and food lovers just like rice for an instant and
alike. The downside is they’re healthy meal. Consumption
expensive and difficult to of adlai can provide the body
source. But did you know that with essential nutrients like
we have our own local grain iron, calcium, potassium and
that could very well become zinc.
the next great fad? For a different take on
Adlai (coix lacryma-jobi adlai, try Gourmix which is
L.) is an indigenous crop a combination of adlai grits,
found in tropical parts of soy and monggo. Here’s how I
southern and eastern Asia. like to eat it: first I sauté a lot
From the same family as of garlic, then onions which
wheat, rice and corn, it I slowly caramelize. I mix in
grows abundantly in the sliced ginger or you can also
Philippines. It was never add shredded meat. Then
given much attention I finish with soup stock or
until the Department of coconut water. Once boiling,
Agriculture initiated its I add the Gourmix. You Endulsao Chavacano ADLAI:
research and development. can make it into a healthy By Chef Tippi Tambunting of 2 cups adlai
As a result, adlai is now porridge that you can season Massetto and Donosti Pintxos 2 cups water
being fashioned as a major and garnish to your liking. y Tapas
food staple alongside rice Gourmix is priced slightly Serves 6 to 8 1. Combine all the
and corn. After all, adlai is higher than rice because its ingredients in a pot and
accepted as an alternative recovery rate during harvest 1 kilo liempo (pork belly), simmer until pork is tender.
staple by indigenous peoples is lower. There is also a cut into cubes Season to taste if needed.
such as the Subanen tribe in glutinous variety that is so 1/2 cup soy sauce 2. CombineDGODLand
Zamboanga del Sur and in good for making our malagkit 1 cup pineapple juice water and cook in the rice
farming communities where delicacies. 1 bottle beer cooker. Serve with Endulsao
rice and white corn are not Thanks to greater 1/2 cup sugar Chavacano.
traditionally produced. awareness and marketing 2 cloves garlic, minced
During Madrid Fusión efforts, adlai is slowly making 1 onion, chopped
Manila last April, adlai made its way into restaurant menus 1 bay leaf
its grand appearance during as chefs continue to look 1 tablespoon chopped
a series of regional lunches for sustainable and flavorful ginger
sponsored by the Department alternatives to liven up their peppercorns
of Agriculture. Several dishes. So what was once
of the country’s top chefs pushed as an alternative to <RXFDQˉQG*RXUPL[DWWKHPRQWKO\2UJDQLF$JULSUHQHXU0DUNHWRU
used it in their dishes. This rice to help food sufficiency FRQWDFW5RZHQD7ROHQWLQRDW)RUDQ\TXHVWLRQVHPDLO
featured recipe by Chef Tippi has now stepped up the WKHDXWKRUDWVSUHDGRUJDQLFDJULFXOWXUH#\DKRRFRP-RLQ6SUHDG2UJDQLF
Tambunting was a big hit as it ladder to become the latest $JULFXOWXUHLQWKH3KLOLSSLQHV62$3RQ)DFHERRNWROHDUQPRUHDERXW
showcased adlai as a perfect darling of the food world. LWVIUHHVHPLQDUVDQGWKHPRQWKO\2UJDQLF$JULSUHQHXU0DUNHW
W
Photography by PAULO VALENZUELA
EGGS AREN’T
SO BAD
AFTER ALL
Time to reintroduce the good
kind of fat into your diet
Photography by PAULO VALENZUELA
N
Styling by NANCY DIZON-EDRALIN
W e e k e n d Brunch
A Tuscan Feast at Il Ponticello
T
By ANGELO RACELIS | Photography by IAN CASTAÑARES
here is something comforting Tuscan home Benedetto, with mortadella answer to caramel bread
about the leisureliness cooking with some playful bologna, a velvety choron pudding) to modern treats
of a weekend brunch adaptations. sauce made with tomato like Cheesecake Caramel
that makes it feel Worthy of praise is the purée and a poached egg, Panna Cotta.
like a sanctuary from rich Lasagna Carbonara all layered on a mushroom With Il Ponticello’s
the hustle and bustle of city made with pancetta, Grana ciabatta. Meanwhile, young serene atmosphere and
life. For one such delightful Padano cheese, eggs and a diners can have fun creating cool-colored interiors, even
experience, we recommend generous dose of mozzarella. their own pizzas with four the busiest guests can take it
Brunchissimo, the Saturday Another standout is the different toppings to choose slow and enjoy themselves.
brunch menu at Il Ponticello, luscious Porchetta Plate, or from. But a Tuscan feast is So while breakfast may still
inspired by the rustic flavors pork belly roasted with herbs what Il Ponticello promises, be our most important meal
of the Italian countryside. to achieve a distinct flavor and nothing says that more of the day, at Il Ponticello,
Having been mentored by and perfect crunch. The than its all-you-can-eat brunch becomes our most
Italian chefs and nurturing Tuscan Polpettone, which Pancetta Arrotolata, dry- pleasurable one.
a reverence for the fresh Chef Panky calls his “Italian cured pork belly carved then
ingredients of Italy, head meatloaf,” is redolent with cooked just how you like it. 2/F Antel Corporate Center,
chef Panky Lopez uses fennel and paprika. Eggs Desserts range from classics 121 Valero Street, Salcedo
authentic Italian ingredients Benedict is given a southern like Tiramisu and Caramelo Village, Makati City, (02)
and techniques to create Italian twist as Uoya Alla di Semolina (an Italian’s 553-9971, 994-9512
ITALIAN FLAVORS
(Clockwise from top)
Best-selling roasted
Porchetta; Il
Ponticello’s rustic
appeal; Tuscan
Polpettone or
“Italian meatloaf”; a
hearty plate of steak
and eggs; a relaxed
weekend setting
BASQUE BITES
(Clockwise from
left) Vask’s quirky
interiors; cochinillo
and paella on a
plate; boquerones
in olive oil; an
assortment of
pintxos
W
hen Chef Chele the traditional flavors of vinegar and extra virgin olive fork-tender on the inside,
Gonzalez his hometown, the Basque oil; Croquetas de Jamon y crispy on the outside, and
announced his region in northern Spain. The Pollo, ham and chicken in completely irresistible. End
new weekend result is an extraordinarily bechamel sauce; and Patatas your meal with a selection of
brunch menu delightful Basque-style Bravas or deep-fried potato sweets from the dessert buffet
for Vask Modern Tapas brunch that is served almost cubes. The fresh flavors of and consider how, in the
& Gastronomic Cuisine, tapas-style in small plates. the coastal Basque region are space of a few hours, you had
eyebrows were raised and The dish selections are reflected in the Pulpos a la the privilege of tasting the
mouths watered. Chef very classic, authentic in Gallega, octopus and potatoes flavors of northern Spain in
Chele is well known for ingredients and flavor. You fried with paprika, and the the way only Chele Gonzalez
his devotion to modern can begin with a selection of Mejillones, mussels deep- can give you.
gastronomy, rooted in pintxos or Basque canapés fried with bechamel sauce.
the foodie capital of San paired with free-flowing The tapas-style character 5/F Clipp Center, 11th Avenue
Sebastian in Spain and having kalimotxo, a Basque-style of the buffet is part of its corner 39th Street, Bonifacio
trained in modernist temples sangria made with white charm, but you will inevitably Global City, (02) 217-6563.
Arzak and Mugaritz. Chef wine, mangoes, oranges and lose yourself in the star of the Weekend Brunch is available
Chele took a break from his peach Schnapps. These small buffet: a sumptuous cochinillo, Saturdays and Sundays,
high concept style to create plates include Boquerones cooked sous vide for 16 hours 11:30 AM to 2 PM
a brunch that celebrates or anchovies marinated in until it is perfectly juicy and
A boutique brunch
at Kabila
I W
By TROY BARRIOS | Photography by IAN CASTAÑARES
t will take the whole morning, perhaps luxury of Norwegian smoked salmon or hen Chef Jose
longer, to fully appreciate the Sunday meats from the carving station. Luis “Chele”
Boutique Brunch at Kabila Filipino Should there be nothing on the Gonzalez
Bistro. The tiny buffet hits just the buffet that catches your fancy, the announced
right spot with its luscious, carefully brunch menu will also allow you to his new
chosen dishes on offer. Start your choose from nine signature dishes, weekend brunch menu
meal with a selection of freshly baked including Bangus Belly Bistek Style, for Vask Modern Tapas
breads—rye, sourdough or multigrain— Grilled Chicken Tandoori and Asian & Gastronomic Cuisine,
to enjoy with flavored cheeses like Noodles. And soon, there will be sushi eyebrows were raised and
Cilantro Crusted Cream Cheese, Fried and other seafood specialties on the mouths watered. Chef
Garlic Crusted Cream Cheese, or Black menu. It’s a smorgasboard and Asian, Chele is well known for
Pepper Crusted Cream Cheese. The Continental and Filipino flavors. his devotion to modern
charcuterie bar has premium jamon With the soft morning sunshine gastronomy, rooted in
Serrano and calchichon, while the filtering in through the glass walls, the foodie capital of San
raw bar is piled high with fresh river Kabila is the perfect place for a casual Sebastian in Spain and having
prawns, Aklan oysters and mussels from family brunch. All to the tune of live trained in modernist temples
New Zealand. jazz music. Arzak and Mugaritz. Chef
For more breakfast-y choices, there Chele took a break from his
is a live cooking station for pancakes Located inside M Café, Ayala Museum high concept style to create
and omelets, as well as classic egg dishes Complex, Makati Avenue corner Dela a brunch that celebrates
like Croque Monsieur served with Rosa Street, Makati, (02) 757-3000 or
bechamel and Gruyère. Indulge in the 757-6000
T
By TROY BARRIOS | Photography by CHERYL BORSOTO NASOL
he hotel breakfast cooking). This Australian well-curated. There are the cream and halo halo. For an
buffet is a well-loved Wagyu, easily one of the usual breakfast classics—eggs extra fee, there’s unlimited
classic, combining best in the world, gives beef any way you want them, Prosecco, too.
the winning elements an exquisite juiciness and homemade waffles and With its high ceilings,
of luxury, a plethora tenderness, and a fine buttery crepes, steaks, lamb and interactive show kitchen
of cuisines to choose from, texture. You can choose to sausages. Explore the pizza and vibrant cooking, The
and beautifully-rendered take it as shawarma, steak or and pasta options (even Café is culinary theater that
versions of classic breakfast barbecue cut with a selection gluten-free) at the Italian makes brunch delicious,
dishes. At The Café at Hyatt of sauces—but we say you’ll station, or the Peking duck, entertaining and easy all at
City of Dreams Manila, need no trimmings to savor assorted dimsum and roasts once.
Sunday brunch has all these its tenderness and flavor. at the Asian station. Don’t
elements, and more. Beyond the Beast, there miss the French cheeses The Café, G/F Hyatt City
First, there’s The Beast. are six live cooking stations and freshly baked breads at of Dreams Manila, Aseana
This is a hundred-pound doing a la minute cooking the deli counter, while the Avenue corner Roxas
leg of Mayura Station so you can enjoy your food pastry and dessert counter Boulevard, Entertainment
Wagyu that takes four days as fresh as possible. The is where you can splurge on City, Parañaque, (02) 691-
to prepare (three days to selection is not the widest an assortment of cakes, bon 1234, cityofdreams@hyatt.com
marinate, one day of slow in the city, but it is very bons, financiers, cookies, ice or codmanilahyatt.com
BUFFET STYLE
DINING AT ITS BEST
(Clockwise from top)
Live cooking stations
brimming with fresh
fare; mini blinis
with caviar to pair
with champagne;
the Italian set meal,
for those who don’t
want to choose from
the buffet
CONTEMPORARY
CHINESE (Clockwise
from top left)
Steamed Pork Siomai
LQ7UXIˊH%DNHG
Barbecue Pork Buns;
Pan-fried Radish
Cake in XO Sauce;
Steamed Shrimp
Dumpling with Gold
Leaf; Lung Hin’s
classy interiors on
WKHWKˊRRU
B
By ANNE MARIE OZAETA black vinegar. Even the fried rice is a
notch above the usual, especially when
Photos courtesy of MARCO POLO ORTIGAS MANILA
runch doesn’t have to be about dimsum chef Ka Ming Pun, Lung Hin’s stir-fried with Angus beef and XO
bacon and eggs. Why not do traditional Cantonese menu has a sauce. And for dessert, you must order
dimsum instead? And for a refreshingly modern edge. The dimsum the chilled Avocado Sago, a bit heavy,
top quality selection, head to lunch menu may offer all the usual but with its creamy avocado purée and
Lung Hin, Marco Polo Ortigas favorites but Chef Sunny still manages coconut milk, worth all the calories.
Manila’s signature Chinese restaurant. to surprise. A dollop of truffle sauce Don’t be intimidated by Lung Hin’s
Located on the 44th floor, Lung Hin tops Steamed Pork Siomai bursting with seemingly fine dining ambiance and
exudes elegance with its subdued tones meat. Steamed Shrimp Dumplings are refined service. It caters to everyone
and sleek furnishings—no gaudy red delicate yet substantial, topped with who appreciates authentic Chinese
décor in sight. While weekdays cater edible gold leaf. The Barbecue Pork fare prepared with quality ingredients,
to the business crowd, weekends are buns are heavenly, with a soft, pillowy attention to detail, and an extra bit of
more casual with families enjoying bun hiding behind a crunchy exterior. flair.
the excellent Cantonese food amidst Even better are the Fried Taro Puffs
commanding views of the city. without the starchiness, as well as the Marco Polo Ortigas Manila, Meralco
Thanks to its Hong Kong-bred Pan-fried Radish Cake with XO sauce. Avenue and Sapphire Street, Ortigas
executive chef Sunny Cheng and While the dimsum menu already Center, Pasig City, (02) 720-7777
A
dd an egg to a protein, we had to call Rice, or simply served
dish, any dish, in the experts. It so with butter and toast.
and it’ll instantly happens the chefs at According to Chef Allen
make you smile. the hugely successful Buhay, Wildflour’s four
We don’t quite Wildflour Café + branches use up to
understand why, but in Bakery like to cook with 14,000 eggs per week!
some mysterious way, eggs, lots of them. They Whatever the
eggs make any dish make up a big part of presentation—poached,
infinitely better and, as the restaurant’s daytime fried, scrambled,
we’ve learned thanks to menu, from breakfast to baked—eggs bring
recent studies, healthier, lunch. They’re added to that extra touch of
too. the bestselling Croque creaminess and easy
To help us have Madame, topped on luxury, the runnier the
fun with this versatile the popular Kimchi better, of course.
I
f you are, like me, the kind of it!). But the truth is we don’t just where, like many hardy immigrants,
person who lives to drink coffee, grow barako, we are one of the few they thrived.
then this story is for you. It’s countries in the world that grows all Coffee adjusted so well to the
the story of the coffee of the four commercial varietals—arabica, local terroir that after half a century,
Philippines, from the beans to the robusta, excelsa and liberica. And by the 1800s, they were grown all
cup. There’s a rich history, a thriving we grow them in excellent quality over the country and we had become
and dynamic coffee culture. And all over the country. But, I’m getting the fourth largest producer of coffee
there’s a lot of irony as, for instance, I ahead of the story. in the world. The coffee trade made
chanced upon one morning at a small many people rich, most especially in
café. The sign behind the counter Lipa which became its main trading
said “Philippine coffee,” prompting A little bit of history point. The zenith came in the 1880s
the diner to say with a knowing We have to thank the friars for when an airborne fungus, Hemileia
look, “Ah, barako!” It’s a common bringing the first coffee plants over vastatrix, ruined all the coffee
misconception that all Philippine from Mexico. It’s said that some plantations in Indonesia, India and
coffee is barako, scientific name time in the 1740s, a Franciscan South America. Coffee prices in
caffea liberica. We’ve taken a kind priest arrived on a Manila galleon Lipa rose so high that the town was
of national pride in this drink, so full- with three ganta of coffee in his literally awash in cash, but as this
bodied and bracing that it’s name luggage. He was sent to Laguna windfall fell into the hands of only
literally means “wild boar.” The where he planted the first coffee a few families, this created a new
implication is that it’s a man’s drink, beans, and when he died, some of class of elite who became legendary
for the bold and the brave (subtext: his plants were taken to Barangay for their ostentatious display of
don’t drink it if you can’t handle Pinagtolongan in Lipa, Batangas wealth. There’s an anecdote about
I
t’s almost impossible to in the mornings, around 4
be Filipino and not have AM, when coffee is poured
your life touched by coffee. and served with tapuy or
Blessed with fertile soils, just rice wine, as the family
the right tropical humidity gathers around the fire to
and climate, the country has exchange stories between the
been generous to the coffee generations.
plant. In Pampanga, coffee was
When you travel around traditionally brewed in a
the country, keep your eyes palayok or claypot with sugar
peeled for local beans. Coffee already added. The first brew
is grown in 22 provinces would be served to the men,
around the country. They and the considerably weaker
grow in the mountains, in second brew would be given
the foothills and in obscure
locations inhabited by
to the women. That was then.
Today’s women would never
Know Your Beans
When buying coffee for home ˊDYRUDQGMROWRIFDIIHLQH
indigenous communities. The stand for such nonsense. But use, it’s best to buy whole Some people prefer to buy
plots range in size from small the point is, coffee and its beans which stay fresh longer their beans green and will
family holdings, ancestral rituals are so much a part DQGNHHSWKHDURPDDQGˊDYRU roast them at home.
domains to larger farms. And of our national lives that intact for longer than the pre-
ground beans. It also helps to PEABERRY is a type
because so many of the trees you’d be hard pressed to find know your beans. of coffee bean (not
are off the beaten track, the a region without a unique DYDULHW\WKDWLVD
beans don’t even find their coffee culture of its own. AR ABICA is naturally occurring
way to the markets. Because things have a one of the most mutation of the coffee cherry.
FRPPRQYDULHWLHV Ordinary coffee fruit contains
Just like the grapes grown way of coming full circle,
Usually grown in WZRVHHGVWKDWGHYHORS
to make wine, each location traditional coffee is finding the highlands, it ˊDWWHQHGVLGHVIDFLQJHDFK
has a unique terroir that its way from the provinces to is larger and more other. A peaberry coffee bean
influences the character the malls and urban centers. RYDOWKDQWKHUREXVWDDQG GRHVQRWˊDWWHQVRLWDSSHDUV
of the coffee grown there. KKK Coffee, a two-year- can reach twice the price of DVDQRYDOEHDQ3HDEHUU\FRIIHH
robusta in the commodities is a rarity that occurs in only
Mount Matutum, a volcano in old Filipino café, was born market. This is because RIKDUYHVWHGFRIIHHEXW
Mindanao, has rich, fertile soil when owner Brian Tenorio arabica has twice the sugar they require more labor. Since
perfect for its organic, shade- was advised by a consultant concentration of robusta, WKH\URDVWGLIIHUHQWO\IURPˊDW
grown arabica that produces that Filipinos “had to be JLYLQJLWPRUHˊDYRU EHDQVWKH\KDYHWREHSLFNHG
coffee with a full aroma and educated to drink coffee out and separated to ensure an
ROBUSTA is the HYHQURDVW6RPHSHRSOHSUHIHU
fruity complexity. In the the right way.” He said, smaller bean and peaberry coffee because they
Cordilleras, the high altitudes “Nagpantig ang tenga ko. The FDUULHVDELWWHUˊDYRU URDVWPRUHHYHQO\WKHURXQGHG
produce aromatic blends. right way? Did he mean that GXHWRKDYLQJWZLFH shape allowing the bean to
Wherever coffee grows, everything we’ve been doing as much caffeine as arabica. roll more easily in the roasting
7KLVEHDQJLYHVDNLFNWR\RXU chamber. The higher bean
you will find it enmeshed in Batangas is wrong?” The coffee. Most coffees are a GHQVLW\PDNHVIRUPRUHHIˉFLHQW
in the fabric of life. And I result is the café, which now blend of arabica and robusta, heat transfer during roasting,
don’t mean just the drinking has three locations, where to get that balance of aroma, resulting in a sweeter and more
of coffee. In Cavite and he serves local coffee made ˊDYRUIXOFRIIHH
Batangas, women handpick using traditional Filipino
and sort the coffee, nursing brewing methods, and using
their babies and gossiping as local beans sourced from
they do. Small children take northern Luzon. Brian calls so much that she invited Brian serving “Sulu-style” coffee
coffee berries to the market to this “comfort coffee.” “This is to do the coffee concoctions at made with beans grown in
exchange for candies. Tuition the coffee you drink at home. her one-time pop-up dinner their family plot in Sulu.
fees and household goods are It’s good old fashioned Pinoy- in Manila last summer. Imelda employs Tausug
paid for with money from the style coffee, not sosyal but it’s Another example is carpenters to build her café;
coffee harvest. certainly special.” This year, Imelda Ahalul-Dagus, an she buys beans from Tausug
In the mountains of he’s even experimented with OFW of Tausug ancestry, coffee farmers; and has
the Cordilleras, where the the menu, releasing Kapeng who was persuaded to Tausug baristas. In one fell
cold can penetrate into the Pandan which has coffee return to the Philippines swoop, the café brings their
marrow of your bones, coffee poured over pandan leaves, and revive her father’s old style of coffee to the larger
is kept brewing hot and ready and Kapeng Labuyo, with its coffee business in Jolo. community, empowering
for family and guests at any infusion of chili. KKK Coffee Choosing Zamboanga for her Tausug family. And
time of day. An important impressed visiting chef Yana her location, she opened there are many more stories
socialization ritual occurs Gilbuena of The Salo Series Dennis Coffee Garden like hers.
&RXUWHV\RI7RQ*&RIIHH3KRWRE\6KDLUD/XQD
DQG&RXUWHV\RI3DFLWD-XDQ,QWHUQDWLRQDO:RPHQȠV&RIIHH$OOLDQFH3KLOLSSLQHFKDSWHU&RXUWHV\RI*UXPS\1R0RUH
Fiercely Filipino
Our local chefs dazzle with their superb innovations
inspired by Madrid Fusión Manila
By ANNE MARIE OZAETA
M
Photos courtesy of MADRID FUSIÓN MANILA
uch has already The theme, “Philippines- coconut’s importance in our dinuguan, reimagined as
been written and Spain: A 300 Year cooking. In a way, Madrid risotto. While these recipes
discussed about Gastronomic Journey,” set Fusión Manila challenged are very different from each
last April’s Madrid the tone for the presentations our local chefs to think about other, what they share is
Fusión Manila, of many of the local chefs, as Filipino cuisine in different a predilection for off-cuts,
regarded as the country’s they referenced much of the ways, within the context of offal and organ parts—quite
biggest culinary event of the history of Filipino cooking Spanish colonization. trendy among Western
year. A regional spin-off from vis-à-vis Spain’s colonial Here, we share three chefs, but something wholly
the world-renowned Madrid presence. What was evident recipes presented at (or familiar to most Filipinos.
Fusión, the Manila event throughout these talks is our inspired by) this seminal While these dishes may
brought in big names in the search for what is “native” event. J Gamboa of Cirkulo not be your typical home-
culinary world, like Elena in our cooking versus what creates a Filipino version cooked fare, they are meant
Arzak, Andoni Luis Aduriz, is “borrowed.” For instance, of a Spanish dish, using to showcase some of the
Quique Dacosta, Paco Claude Tayag of Bale Dutung sisig as its main component. most interesting ideas being
Roncero and Andre Chiang, worked on defining our Margarita Forés of Grace explored in contemporary
among others, along with adobo; Fernando Aracama Park and Lusso resurrects Philippine cooking. Daring
a contingent of local chefs of Aracama explored sour our use of roe and the as they may seem, they also
who all shared the concepts fruits as a distinctly Filipino seemingly obscure fish happen to be delicious, and
and inspirations behind their flavor base; while Myrna sperm. Juan Carlos de simple enough for home
cooking. Segismundo discussed the Terry gives us his take on cooks to replicate.
LIFE-GIVING SEAFOOD
Margarita Forés’
presentation intrigued with
the title “What Gives Life.”
And indeed, she focused
RQˉVKURHDQGVSHUP
that not only give life, but
LPSDUWGLVWLQFWˊDYRUVDQG
textures. According to Chef
0DUJDULWDVRPHSURYLQFLDO
FRRNVVLPSO\VDXW«LQRQLRQV
DQGWRPDWRHVZKLOHRWKHUV
GRDQDGRERYHUVLRQ6SHUP
(bagaybay) can be used
in kinilawZKLOHˉVKURH
(bihudLVRIWHQPDULQDWHG
in vinegar, garlic, calamansi
and salt, then deep fried.
2ULWFDQEHIHUPHQWHGLQWR
buro<RXFDQˉQGURHDQG
VSHUPDW)DUPHUȠV0DUNHW
HDUO\LQWKHPRUQLQJZKHQ
the large tuna are dressed.
Just order beforehand so the
YHQGRUFDQUHVHUYHVRPH
for you.
Huevos Rotos
Recipe by J Gamboa
Serves 6 to 8 with salt and pepper. Bake the eggs. Place 2 drops of
LQDr)bRYHQIRUWR 3HGUR;LPHQH]YLQHJDURQ
SRUNKHDGSUHIHUDEO\IURP PLQXWHVRUXQWLOJROGHQ the eggs.
a suckling pig EURZQDQGFULVS\b6HWDVLGH 7. Sprinkle with chopped
salt and pepper, to taste DQGOHWFRROb2QFHFRRO SDUVOH\6HUYHLPPHGLDWHO\
WDEOHVSRRQbFRUQRLO UHPRYHPHDWDQGVNLQIURP
1 siling labuyo (bird’s eye the bones and chop into
FKLOLVOLFHG 1/2-inch cubes. Shoestring Potatoes
1 small onion, minced 2. In a sauté pan, heat oil Serves 3 to 4
WDEOHVSRRQVbVR\VDXFH and sweat chili and onion
2 tablespoons calamansi IRUPLQXWHVRUXQWLOVRIW FRUQRLOIRUGHHSIU\LQJ
juice 3. Add cooked pork head 2 large potatoes, julienned
HJJVFRRNHGIRUKRXUDW DQGVDXW«IRUPLQXWHV on a mandolin
r&LQDWKHUPDO b'HJOD]HZLWKVR\VDXFH salt and pepper, to taste
FLUFXODWRURUXVHSRDFKHG and calamansiMXLFHb6HDVRQ
eggs) with salt and pepper. Set 1. In a deep-sided pot or
Pedro Ximenez vinegar, aside. ZRNKHDWFRUQRLOWRr&
to taste (or use balsamic 5.7RDVVHPEOHWKHGLVK 2. Carefully drop potatoes
vinegar) in a serving bowl, create a into the hot oil and cook
FKRSSHGSDUVOH\IRUJDUQLVK “nest” with the shoestring XQWLOFULVSWRPLQXWHV
potatoes. Crack the 2 eggs 3. 'UDLQSRWDWRHVRQSDSHU
1. Place pork head on a in the center of the nest. towels. Season with salt and
roasting pan, and season 6. Spoon pork sisig around pepper.
W
Photography by PAUL DEL ROSARIO | Styling by TINA CONCEPCION DIAZ
hen nature Before the 1960s, only Treasured Home Recipes, na (when it’s opened),” says
decided to a handful of coconut trees Julia A. Iturralde of Quiapo a vendor at Nepa Q-Mart,
play a trick on produced makapunô, recalls, in the days before the whose child took home
the farmer, it mostly from plantations in war, how her aunt Eriberta the day’s nut. In Quinta,
pulled off the Cavite, Laguna, Batangas, used to prepare sweetened Farmer’s, Paco and Libertad,
makapunô. From the outside, Quezon, Pangasinan, Albay makapunô the day before the meanwhile, there’s only niyog
it looks just like an ordinary and Davao. According to feast of the Black Nazarene. available.
coconut. But crack it open and the Philippine Coconut The gelatinous part was A farmer can identify
you’ll find the coconut water Authority-Albay Research poured into a bowl, while makapunô by feel from its
replaced by nut meat that fills Center, makapunô was the pulp was grated into heavy weight. When he
almost the entire shell. The conventionally propagated thin strips then mixed with shakes and taps on the nut,
core is semi-liquid, giving way by planting kabuwíg nuts, it. It was boiled in a sugar- it does not produce sound
to curd-like, gelatinous meat wherein seedlings from non- water syrup until the syrup because it’s filled with meat.
and its outer portion is soft makapunô nuts are planted thickened. The preserves Some makapunô nuts,
and tender white meat. This together with a makapunô nut were stored in beautiful glass however, will slosh as though
is how it got its name—punô is (kabuwíg means “from the jars with decorative covers. filled with thick liquid. I was
Tagalog for “filled.” same bunch”). In another Quiapo home, once tempted to shake all the
This unusual type of Trees that could be the favored dessert was fruit coconuts in a stall to find the
coconut seems to be alluded counted on to produce salad and inuhog na makapunô elusive nut, but the vendors
to in a Hiligaynon proverb in makapunô nuts were called (the term inuhog refers to might think I’d lost my mind.
Damiana Eugenio’s Philippine “segurado,” documents the makapunô’s mucous-like In the city, processed
Folk Literature: the Philippine Journal for texture). makapunô is available—in
Agriculture (1937). To The Iturralde makapunô strips or balls in syrup, candy,
Sa isa kadahug nga lubi ensure that a tree would bear belongs to an era when homes pastillas, tarts. But where
(In one bunch of coconuts) makapunô, some farmers still made their own bottled to find fresh makapunô in
may isa gid nga buang. practiced a coconut planting delicacies and the nuts were the middle of October? I
(there is one that is defective.) ritual: the planter cooked accessible in the palengke. found my answer in Santo
rice until very soft then kept Cookbooks from the 1950s to Cristo, Divisoria where men
While the Tagalog word his mouth full of this rice as the 1970s recorded makapunô haul sacks of coconuts into
for “defect” is generally used he planted the germinated recipes, showing its equal warehouses. An old man said
to refer to misfits of the coconut, writes Emma Yule of importance with ordinary I had to wait until February.
human population, in this U.P. Los Baños. coconut in our culinary “Dadagsa ang makapunô
case being “defective,” or at Makapunô does not culture. kapag December,” advised a
least different, is what sets germinate on its own, so The Manila Chronicle kind lady, the season when the
makapunô apart from the rest everything was left to chance Recipe Books include Iturraldes made sweetened
of the coconut family. until two scientists found a Macapuno Upside-Down makapunô.
Folk wisdom from the solution. Dr. Emerita V. de Cake, macaroons and Science has made it
Bikol region also likens Guzman developed the first mazapan. Makapunô has the possible to produce makapunô
coconuts to the moon, that makapunô embryo culture subtle flavor of fresh coconut. commercially, so we’ll
celestial body many have in the 1960s which produced It’s often cooked with pandan always have makapunô in ice
associated with lunacy: makapunô seedlings from or flavored with dayap, as in cream, cakes, pies and candy.
tissue culture. In the 1990s, Pat Limjuco Dayrit’s Suspiros Makapunô completes our halo-
Tiktikan, buksan, bulan. Erlinda P. Rillo developed a de Macapuno in Favorite halo. Served with ube and leche
(Hit with a bolo, open, and cloning protocol which yields Filipino Recipes. Nora Daza flan, it’s a combination Quijano
you find the moon.) up to 98% makapunô nuts. adds anise to the preserves in de Manila calls “proletarian
Because of the uncertainty Macapuno Chiffon Cake (Let’s festive fare.”
This proverb becomes of producing makapunô, Cook with Nora). I’ll consider myself lucky
even more significant to it is considered a precious Looking for makapunô in the next time I come across this
the makapunô (also spelled ingredient in many Philippine Manila these days is a gamble. misfit coconut. It’s a culinary
macapuno) which, because delicacies. The cook will pay “Minsan lang masuwerteng heritage made possible by folk
of its oddity, is also known as ten times more for makapunô mayroon,” Arranque Market belief, science and faith. To defy
mutant coconut or coconut than for an ordinary coconut. vendors say. “Nalalaman the norm is makapunô’s sweetest
sport. In her cookbook lang namin kapag nabiyak gift.
Winners 2014
Inspired by the theme of “coco-
QXWȣ-HQQ\2ULOORVZRQˉUVWSUL]H
at last year’s Doreen G. Fernan-
dez Food Writing Award. Previ-
ously, she placed second in 2008
and 2011. She has been writing
on food for the past ten years for
various publications, includ-
ing FOOD Magazine. Her latest
endeavor is National Bookstore
bestselling book, Panaderia: Phil-
ippine Bread, Biscuit, and Bakery
Traditions, co-authored with Amy
A. Uy and published by Anvil
Publishing.
Elmer Nocheseda won second
place with “Puso sa Lukay” while
C. Horatius Mosquera took third
place with his essay “The Sweet
Nectar of Life.” Lolita Lacuesta,
Ruby Cariño and Noelle de Jesus
won honorable mentions.
Cooking
Your Way
Towards
Health
Healthy, low-calorie food
can be delicious, satisfying,
and easy to prepare.
Recipes and styling by NANCY DIZON-EDRALIN
Photography by PAULO VALENZUELA
Text by GINNY MATA
I
n a city rife with fast food, all-you-can-eat buffets, and endless
options for all manner of fattening things, it can be challenging
to try to eat more healthfully. But as prominent cookbook author
Mark Bittman will say, “cooking solves everything.” It’s best to
cook your own food, so you can control exactly what goes into
it. The freshness and quality of the ingredients you use is also
important. If possible, try to source your vegetables directly from
the organic farms that produce them, which also deliver directly
to your doorstep (such as Down To Earth, Healthy Carabao, etc.),
or from stores that specialize in selling organic produce like Echo
Store, Ritual Shop and Café, Got Heart Foundation. There are also
online grocery stores from which you can order organic goods,
including The Healthy Grocery, The Green Grocer and Paleo
Manila. For more information, go to onthegreenlist.com
180
CALORIES
per
serving
480
CALORIES
per
serving
280
CALORIES
per
serving
60
FAT IS
IN
Good oils are the comeback kids that
deserve a big fat welcome in our kitchen
Story, recipes and styling by TINA CONCEPCION DIAZ
L
ong regarded as the bane of dieters and walls. When they say fats raise cholesterol
health buffs, fats in the form of butter levels, it’s not entirely a clear picture of what’s
and all sorts of oils have been sadly really happening inside. A review of several
banished from the table and pantry, to studies has established no direct link between
the great decline of flavorful food. saturated fat and heart disease.
But as it turns out, that smidgen of butter On the other hand, this finding isn’t about
you sneakily spread on your toast this to give anyone license to splurge on fats. Too
morning could be good for you after all. More much of anything always has a negative impact
importantly, it’s no longer the enemy it was on the body. Ultimately, it’s what we eat and
made out to be for the longest time. how much of it we consume that affects the
Saturated fats which butter, coconut oil state of our health.
and meats have plenty of, are found in studies It’s high time we welcome back our sorely
to raise the body’s levels of good cholesterol missed fats in all their pudgy glory and with
(HDL) and even change the quality of bad them, all the goodness and flavor that hang
cholesterol (LDL) from small, dense LDL that around them.
can cause heart disease, to large LDL particles Enjoy them to the fullest in moderate and
that have a hard time penetrating the artery appropriate amounts.
COOK IT 5 WAYS
Breakfast Granola
Enjoy a bag of nutritious granola anywhere and any time
by making this easy, just-dump-everything-on-a-tray
recipe, complete with crunchy nuts, fruits, honey, and
very healthy virgin coconut oil. This saturated fat is rich
in lauric acid, a fatty acid that has antibacterial properties
and helps improve the body’s cholesterol quality. Because
it’s more than 90% saturated, it can withstand high
temperatures and stays stable at room temperature for
months without going rancid. Use it for baking, frying or
as a salad oil.
FOOD | 2 0 1 5 I s s u e 23 63
COOK IT 5 WAYS
S
imply a playful mix of the words
breakfast and lunch, brunch is a
great way to sleep in and still get
to indulge in the morning meal.
Or if you prefer, consider it an
early lunch with heavier meal options.
Brunch dates back to the end of the
1800s when servants in the United
Kingdom would prepare the hunting
party’s catch for the day, resulting in
a morning meal served later than the
usual. In the 1920s, the wealthy used the
meal as an opportunity to drink alcohol
in the daytime. Interestingly, brunch
has also been associated with hungover
college students.
Well, for whatever reason your
group of family or friends decide to
gather for brunch, here’s a sumptuous
yet simple feast prepared by Chef Aileen
Anastacio of Marmalade Kitchen to get
you up and about. The best part is, there
isn’t much prep time required on the
actual morning because you can prepare
much of it the day before, and you can
use leftovers as well. These recipes are
easy enough for the kids to help out in
the kitchen!
Menu
Prosecco mimosas
Mix It Up!
Who says you have to stick to orange juice
(for mimosas) and peach purée (for bellinis)?
6SLFHWKLQJVXSZLWKGLIIHUHQWˊDYRUHGMXLFHV
THE BASICS GARNISH
The proportion is half )LQLVKLWRIIZLWKIUHVK
VSDUNOLQJZLQHZH IUXLWVOLFHVIUR]HQIUXLWV
ORYH3URVHFFRDQGKDOI or mint
MXLFHRUWU\IUR]HQIUXLW
SXU«HV AILEEN’S TIPS:
ȧ6HWXSDPLPRVD
JUICES AND FRUITS EHOOLQLEDUZLWKGLIIHUHQW
&UDQEHUU\ MXLFHRSWLRQV
Pomegranate ȧ&KRRVHDGU\VSDUNOLQJ
Grapefruit ZLQHIRUVRPHWKLQJQRW
6WUDZEHUU\SOXVPDQJR VRVZHHWRUJRVZHHWHU
OHPRQRUEDVLO ZLWK3URVHFFR
Grape ȧ0DNHLWNLGIULHQGO\
0HORQ ZLWKVRGDZDWHURU
0DQJR JLQJHUDOHVRWKH\FDQ
KDYHIXQOLNHWKHDGXOWV
WRR
%581&+$''216&ORFNZLVHIURPWRS:KR
ZRXOGQȠWORYHWRZDNHXSWRGHOLFLRXVDQG
KHDOWK\RSWLRQVOLNH\RJXUWIUXLWSDUIDLWVFHUHDO
DQGPLONDQGIUHVKIUXLWVQRWMXVWIRUWHDWLPH
\RXFDQLQGXOJHLQVFRQHVDQGKRPHPDGHMDPV
OLNHWKHVHRQHVIURP0DUPDODGH.LWFKHQIRU
EUXQFKLWȠVIXQZKHQ\RXKDYHDYDULHW\RI
3URVHFFRPLPRVDVWRFKRRVHIURPȝFUDQEHUU\
DSSOHEHUULHVDQGWKHFODVVLFRUDQJH
W
hatever time of to bake chewy cookies,
day you visit cupcakes, brownies and
Marmalade bars, to cooking everyday
Kitchen, you’re easy meals, regional cooking
sure to have a like Spanish or Thai, and
bright and sunny one. Even more. Aside from classes, the
before ordering from the kitchen studio can also be
menu of comfort food and used for workshops, private
all-day breakfast fare, it’s the dinners, children’s cooking
charming and cozy ambiance parties, bridal showers and
that will make you feel at product launches.
home at once. Add to that Even if you’ve had your
the scrumptious selection of fill of Marmalade Kitchen’s
desserts, and you’re all set for goodies for dine in, you can
a memorable visit. also take home the cakes,
One of the owners of this cookies, and scones with jams
café and retail store located and marmalade (such as the
in Bonifacio Global City ones included in our brunch
is Chef Aileen Anastacio, spread). And check out Chef
a cookbook author and Aileen’s own line of hand
teacher. She is also one of soaps and room scents!
the talents behind old-time
0DNHXSE\MAITA ABAD
What’s in a Waffle?
We’ve all heard of the Belgian waffle—
that sweet, crispy waffle that can be
eaten on its own, without maple syrup,
whipped cream or sliced fruits. In
Brussels, it’s considered street food
(literally, it is eaten on the street), not
typical breakfast fare. The first version
of the Belgian waffle was actually a
yeast-leavened batter. These days, as
revised by the Americans, it’s no longer
leavened, and is closer to pancakes in
terms of flavor and taste. Our recipes
on page 110 echo the American version,
but ours are airier and lighter thanks to
the incorporation of meringue.
Salads
Chicken Tandoori
Kalabasa Quinoa Salad
Serves 4
CHICKEN :
1 cup plain whole milk yogurt, divided
I
1/2 cup chopped ripe mango
Styling by N A NC Y DIZON - EDR A LIN
1 cup kalabasa (squash), cut into
f you want to eat light, make yourself a salad. Don’t worry that you’ll 1/2-inch cubes and boiled
still be hungry after munching on your greens—it’s easy to add heft to 1/2 cup julienned red bell pepper
your salad with the right mix of flavorful proteins, fruits and vegetables, 1 small red onion, thinly sliced
plus a good dose of dressing. Yes indeed, a salad can be a filling and crosswise, separated into rings
substantial main dish. 1 cup chopped unpeeled cucumber
5 tablespoons chopped
green onions, divided
200 grams fresh spinach leaves
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
Instead of quinoa
,I\RXFDQȠWˉQGTXLQRDRUDUHORRNLQJIRUDOHVV
expensive option, use bow tie pasta or couscous
instead. And here’s a handy tip—remove the
VWURQJSXQJHQWˊDYRURIWKHUHGRQLRQE\
soaking it in cold water for at least 30 minutes.
You can marinate, then freeze the chicken for a
week, then thaw and grill when needed.
DRESSING :
juice and zest of 1/2 lemon
1 tablespoon honey
1 tablespoon extra
virgin olive oil
WHDVSRRQˉYHVSLFHSRZGHU
DRESSING :
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons strawberry jam
Quirky Classics
A new take on French traditional pastries, inspired by Japan
Recipes and styling by MIKO ASPIRAS
C
Photography by PAULO VALENZUELA | Text by GINNY MATA
reative chefs are always Theory, and Technique for even more evident: from brilliant pastry chefs behind
looking to experiment the Artisan Confectioner) flaky croissants filled with Le Petit Soufflé and Scout’s
with new, interesting have been incorporating azuki bean paste, to matcha Honor, Miko Aspiras and
flavors that may be Japanese flavors like matcha, macarons, to plated desserts Kristine Lotilla? You can try
out of their comfort yuzu and azuki bean into composed of yuzu cream, your hand at recreating their
zone. Prominent pastry their creations. In the pages passionfruit curd and green signature style at home with
chefs like Francisco Migoya of So Good Magazine: The tea genoise. these spectacular recipes, or
(Elements of Dessert) and Magazine of Haute Patisserie, Who better to bring this else try them first at Le Petit
Peter Geweling (Chocolates this cross-cultural pollination French-Japanese fusion of Soufflé, available starting this
& Confections: Formula, of East and West becomes styles here than the young, August.
CHEF’S NOTE:
,I\RXFDQȠWˉQG\X]X
you can substitute it
with lemon or lime
syrup. Combine 1/3
cup lemon or lime
juice and 3/4 cup
white sugar. Bring to a
boil until temperature
reaches 116°C. You
can add lemon zest
for additional texture.
An “easy”
meringue
The secret to this
Australian dessert is a
meringue that’s light as
Strawberry and meringue is glossy and stiff. GROORSRIFUHDPˉOOLQJUHFLSH a feather, crisp on the
Yuzu Lime Pavlova 3. Whisk in cream of tartar below) in the center. Then outside and chewy on
Serves 8 and vanilla extract, then top with fresh strawberries the inside. Chef Miko
ZKLVNXQWLOPHULQJXHLVˉUP RUDQ\IUXLWDYDLODEOHDQG shares his easy version
MERINGUE: 4. Transfer the meringue garnish with mint leaves. which is piped. Pavlova
4 egg whites to a piping bag. Pipe small LVWUDGLWLRQDOO\ˉOOHGZLWK
3/4 cup + 2 tablespoons 3-inch circles creating a CREAM FILLING: FKDQWLOO\FUHDPZKLSSHG
white sugar crater by making the sides 1 1/2 cups + 1 1/2 cream and confectioners’
1 1/4 cups powdered sugar a little higher than the tablespoons heavy sugar), and topped with
1 teaspoon cream of tartar center. Or feel free to be as whipping cream assorted fruits. Instead,
1 teaspoon vanilla extract decorative as you want. 1 teaspoon vanilla extract Chef Miko innovates with
5. Bake meringue shells in 2 tablespoons yuzu yuzu-infused cream. Yuzu
1. Preheat oven to 300°F. preheated oven for 25 to or lemon juice is currently the darling fruit
2. To make the meringue, 30 minutes. Cool down to 1/2 cup powdered sugar of the culinary world, as its
in a mixing bowl, whisk room temperature, then taste is more well rounded
egg whites until pale keep in a sealed container In an electric mixer, whip than that of a lemon or
and light. Add white and until ready to use. the cream and powdered lime.
powdered sugars then 6. To assemble, place the baked sugar until stiff. Fold in
continue to whip until meringue on a plate. Place a vanilla and lemon juice.
A deluxe version
Pancakes as we know them can be
boring. How many iterations of heavy
buttermilk pancakes and rich, cloying
maple syrup can one have? In Chef
Miko’s version, the batter is aerated
with meringue, and paired with
peaches and cream. The pancake is
light, almost ethereal, lingering just
long enough on the tongue before
turning into a pleasant, comforting
dream. If you’re pressed for time,
though, just substitute with a
traditional pancake mix. And feel free
to use other fresh fruits like mangoes
or strawberries.
Peaches n’ Creme Japanese FROSTING : pour in the milk. Whisk until smooth.
Pancake Soufflé 3/4 cup cream cheese 3. Whisk in eggs, vanilla and vegetable
Serves 6 3/4 cup powdered sugar oil. Fold in the whipped egg whites.
Set aside.
PANCAKES : TOPPINGS : 4. To make the frosting, combine cream
4 egg whites 6 halves canned peaches, sliced cheese and powdered sugar. Beat in an
3/4 cup white sugar 1/2 cup granola electric mixer until smooth.
FXSVDOOSXUSRVHˊRXU FXSVXQˊRZHUVHHGV 5. To cook the pancakes, heat a non-
2 tablespoons white sugar powdered sugar, for dusting stick pan with a teaspoon of butter.
2 teaspoons baking powder Pour a ladle full of pancake batter,
1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1. In a mixing bowl, whisk egg whites around 3 tablespoons, into the pan.
1/2 teaspoon salt and white sugar until stiff peaks form. When bubbles begin to form on the
1 1/2 cups milk Set aside. SDQFDNHˊLSWRFRRNWKHRWKHUVLGH
2 eggs 2. Meanwhile in another mixing bowl, 6. Top each pancake with cream cheese
1 teaspoon vanilla extract FRPELQHˊRXUVXJDUEDNLQJSRZGHU frosting, sliced peaches, granola and
2 tablespoons vegetable oil baking soda and salt. Whisk to remove VXQˊRZHUVHHGV'XVWZLWKSRZGHUHG
butter, for cooking lumps. Make a well in the center, then sugar.
W
Story, recipes and styling by Pixie Rodrigo Sevilla I Photography by Paulo Valenzuela
MAKE AHEAD
'RQȠWKDYHWLPHWRPDNHZDIˊHVIURPVFUDWFK
during the morning rush? Cook them in
WKHZDIˊHPDNHULQDGYDQFH:UDSWKHPLQ
airtight plastic bags and place in the freezer.
7RVHUYHMXVWWKDZWKHZDIˊHVWKHQKHDW
EULHˊ\LQWKHWRDVWHURUWRDVWHURYHQ
1 2 3 4
Before making the To avoid spills, use a Avoid checking too To clean the waffle
batter, preheat the liquid measuring cup often if the waffle is maker, just wipe with
waffle maker. or small pitcher to pour cooked. You can rely a paper towel or clean
Lightly brush the the batter into the griddle. on the light indicator that cloth after every use. Avoid
preheated griddle of the Always pour in the center of most waffle makers have to using soap and water.
waffle maker with melted each waffle mold, allowing know if the waffle is ready.
butter or oil before using. the batter to spread to fill For extra crispy waffles, cook
Make sure to brush after the sides of the entire mold. them longer. Remember
every 2 waffles cooked to Fill the whole mold but not patience is key.
prevent them from sticking excessively since the batter
to the griddle. Usually, the will still expand as it cooks.
first waffle you make will be
deformed.
THE SECRET IS IN THE WAFFLE MAKER :DIˊHVXFFHVVVWDUWVZLWKDJRRGTXDOLW\
ZDIˊHPDNHU/RRNIRURQHWKDWIHDWXUHVHYHQKLJKKHDWDQGDKHDY\GXW\VWDLQOHVVVWHHOJULGGOHWKDW
UHWDLQVWKHKHDW7KH&XLVLQDUW7UDGLWLRQDO:DIˊH0DNHUIHDWXUHVDOLJKWVDIHW\LQGLFDWRUDOLGWKDWFDQ
ORFNWRHQVXUHHYHQEDNLQJFRROWRXFKVLGHKDQGOHVDQGWRQHVLJQDOVZKLFKLQGLFDWHZKHQWRˉOOWKH
JULGGOHZLWKEDWWHUDQGZKHQLWLVWLPHWRUHPRYHWKHFRRNHGZDIˊH7KH&XLVLQDUW7UDGLWLRQDO:DIˊH
Maker is available at Rustan’s Department Stores, Crate & Barrel, True Home, True Value, Anson’s, select SM
Homeworld branches, select Abenson’s outlets, SM Appliance Store and Landmark
BREAKFAST
IN A FLASH
Tired of the usual pandesal or cereal? These fun and fast
meals will let you start your day with a smile
Recipes by PORTIA BALUYUT | Photography by PAUL DEL ROSARIO | Styling by TINA CONCEPCION DIAZ
Sweet Sunrise
Serves 1
(FISH)
salmon belly strips in
and Lemon a small saucepan. Pour
in Olive Oil in water and olive oil,
Makes 1 cup (240 making sure salmon
to 250 grams) does not stick to the
bottom of the pan.
200 grams salmon 3. Add garlic, 2
belly, scales lemon slices, thyme,
removed, cleaned bay leaf, crushed
and cut into peppercorns and salt.
Love
5-inch strips 4. Simmer mixture,
salt and pepper, partially covered in
to taste low heat, for about 8
3/4 cup water minutes. Remove cover,
1/2 cup extra virgin gently stir, simmer for
olive oil, plus another 5 minutes.
Tuyo, sardines or salmon—here’s extra for bottling 5. Remove pan from
how to make your favorite bottled 2 cloves garlic, crushed
3 round slices
heat and cool for 1
to 2 hours. Adjust
fish products from scratch lemon, with peel salt according to
3 to 4 sprigs taste. Discard cooked
Story and recipes by A BY N ACH U R A | Photography by PAU LO VA L E N ZU E L A
M
fresh thyme thyme and bay leaf.
Styling by PIXIE RODRIGO SE V IL L A
1 small fresh bay leaf 6. Transfer cooled
ake your kids’ breakfast and baon extra special. Simply paired 1/8 teaspoon crushed salmon mixture to
with garlic rice, sunny side up eggs or even toasted bread and peppercorns a sterilized jar. Add
hot chocolate, these homemade bottled fish recipes are a sure hit. 1/2 teaspoon remaining lemon slice
Prepare them in batches ahead of time and you’ll have a weekly LRGL]HGˉQHVDOW and extra olive oil if
staple that’s definitely clean, healthy and super delicious. 1 sterilized jar/bottle desired. Store in the
with tight lid (240 refrigerator for 1 to
to 250 ml capacity) 2 days for stronger
ˊDYRU<RXFDQNHHS
1. Season salmon the bottled salmon
belly strips with in the refrigerator for
salt and pepper. up to one month.
Marinating is key
Keep the cooked salmon
in the refrigerator for more
than 24 hours to ensure
WKDWWKHULFKˊDYRUVRIWKH
salmon and light citrus
herbs blend well.
Spanish or
Portuguese style
What’s the difference?
Spanish style is cooked
in tomato sauce while
Portuguese is cooked in
olive oil. Whatever the
style of sardines, the key
is to use a pressure cooker
WRFRRNWKHˉVKDQGVDXFH
quickly, allowing the sauce
to incorporate well with
WKHˉVKDQGWRVRIWHQWKH
ˉVKERQHVPDNLQJWKHˉVK
safe to eat whole, bones
and all. For this recipe, you
can use Salinas sardines,
galunggong or baby bangus
LI\RXFDQȠWˉQGtawilis.
)U\LWˉUVW
It’s easier to remove the
scales and head after you
fry the tuyo. If you want to
reduce the saltiness, just
add about a tablespoon of
vinegar.
Taal in
TRANSITION
Taaleños far from their
hometown are coming back to
their roots, reopening heritage
homes for a glimpse of history
and a revisit of the community’s
unique cuisine and culture
By MICHAELA FENIX
Photography by PIA PUNO
T
he flags were flying
high from many
of the houses in
Taal, revolutionary
flags with the
letters KKK prominently
displayed. These letters, as
all Filipinos should know,
stand for the Kataastaasang
Kagalanggalangang
Katipunan of the
revolutionary army. It
was two days before
Independence Day, and
the flags were an expected
sight in this heritage town,
serving as colorful reminders
of Taal’s illustrious residents
(the ilustrado) who had
risked their economic
standing, and even their lives
in the struggle against the
Spaniards. THE ILUSTRADO
LIFESTYLE (Clockwise
Just like in many other from top) The dining area
towns in the country, many at Goco House, which
of the residents of Taal represents the way of
life of the ilustrado class
have had to leave to study in Batangas; a classic
or work in urban centers. Taal dish, the Adobo sa
The houses they left behind Dilaw (recipe on page
131); the sitting room
have deteriorated, which is an example of how
is a shame, because there the Gocos have kept
intact the cozy feel of a
is so much history in these family home in spite of
homes. There is the home of antique furnishings; a
Marcela Marino Agoncillo, simple dessert of bandi,
caramelized peanuts
who designed and made and brown sugar; an
the Philippine flag while in assortment of salads
exile in Hong Kong. Another served by the family
cook, Reggie Agoncillo
house, belonging to Don
Eulalio Villavicencio, was
where the Katipunan leaders
held their meetings—and
made their escape through a
trapdoor in the dining room
that led to an underground
tunnel, thus eluding raids
by the guardia civil. The
well-preserved home of the
late diplomat extraordinaire
Felipe Agoncillo is located
at the very entrance of the was unimpressive, its ceiling religious pilgrimage like Doña Gliceria Marella y
town, coming from the stripped of its painted the Basilica and the nearby Legaspi, who had been
Alitagtag route, his statue “fresco,” which had been Our Lady of Caysasay active in the revolution. This
standing resplendent and rolled up and stored away. Shrine, known for its well of restored mansion features
formal before the gates. Even today, few remember miraculous water. antique tiles (some broken
that the fresco had once been The great story is how tiles have been replaced by
Focus on restoration there. Taaleños are returning to copies), waxed and gleaming
My first visit to Taal 20 years What a relief to learn revitalize their ancestral wooden planks for the
ago was disappointing. Many that in the last ten years, homes, restoring them to flooring, hand-painted walls
of the houses were in a sad rehabilitation of the Basilica their old glory. A prime and carved door frames that
state of disrepair. The Basilica and the ancestral houses is example is the ancestral showcase the artistry of local
of St. Martin of Tours, being carried out. This makes home of the Villavicencios, craftsmen. On display
imposing even then, built as Taal a must-see, especially a gift from Don Eulalio are the house treasures of
it was on a high promontory, for its history and sites for Villavicencio to his wife, ornate silver.
Traditional tavern,
heritage meals
Chef Giney Villar closed her
restaurant Adarna in Quezon
City to open Feliza Taverna y
Café, an old-style restaurant
located in the former home of
Feliza Diokno, once secretary
to Emilio Aguinaldo. Many
of the fixtures have been
restored using original
materials like bamboo, and
employing Taal carpenters
and craftsmen who know
traditional methods. Villar
also refurbished two
bedrooms, making up her
small B&B.
Giney’s version of the MARKET DAY (Clockwise from
sinaing na tulingan deviates top left) Vangie Pasumbal sells
pancit and tamales only from 4
slightly from the traditional. to 9 AM daily; the reddish native
She doesn’t press salt into the barbecue called tinindag; Taal-
fish or butterfly-cut it, but style empanada is rich and hefty
keeps it whole with salt just
added. Giney is known to (stuffed chicken) had salsa drivers were eating breakfast known for her tamales, a
travel around the country to monja (Spanish sauce made from cone-shaped paper rice concoction shaped into
learn the proper procedure of shallots, olives and torn containers lined with small squares and wrapped
for preparing heritage food. bread pieces with olive oil) banana leaf. The pancit in banana leaves. It’s a local
She presented other ways on the side. was wrapped in the style of favorite, with tangy sauce
of serving her menu such as the balisungsung or cone, and smooth rice paste, so that
tapang baboy with a salad Of suman, pancit easy to display and to hold supply had run out by the
of greens and fruits, callos and pan de coco when eating. Some people time we arrived—luckily we
paired with fried eggplant Walking to the market prefer to eat this pancit with got a tip that a stall inside the
in place of the berenjena the next morning, we saw chopsticks, but plastic forks market still had some.
(eggplant salad), and instead tricycles parked near Vico’s are available, too. Owner We hurried over to find
of gravy, the galantina Pancit, where the vehicles’ Vangie Pasumbal is also a few tamales pieces left,
H
ow can restaurants
achieve success in
Zomato in One Click
ȧ=RPDWRZDVIRXQGHGLQ
today’s digital era?
New Delhi, India in 2008 by
This question among
Deepinder Goyal and Pankaj
others was tackled
Chaddah. Since then, it has
during the first ever Zomato
become the world’s largest
Restaurant Summit held
online and mobile restaurant
last May 19 at the Makati
discovery service with over
Shangri-La Hotel. With
one million restaurants
the theme “Conquering the
across 22 countries.
Digital Age,” the summit
ȧ7KURXJKWKH=RPDWRDSS
covered issues like brand
or website, you can gain
building, service excellence,
access to restaurant listings
wooing millennials, food
with menus, photos, reviews
tourism and the evolution of
and geocoded coordinates
Filipino restaurants, among Marriott International.
accessed by over 80 million
many topics discussed during
visitors globally each month.
the whole-day event. ȕʕ,¿ì×Þʕ©¿ʕÞ¦ʕ¿íʕ©¡©Þ~¸ʕ
ȧ=RPDWR3KLOLSSLQHV
Zomato gathered marketplace which boasts
ERDVWVWKHKLJKHVWWUDIˉF
an influential group of over 40 million Filipinos
globally with an average of
restaurateurs who listened online, explained Francis
11 million app and website
to a host of speakers from Oliva of PLDT SME
visits monthly, accessing info
different fields who shared NATION.
on over 11,000 restaurants
the latest trends and ideas
in Metro Manila, Antipolo,
relevant to the industry. ȕʕ@©¶óʕ#¿©òʕÄáÞ¸©¿ʕ
Tagaytay, and soon Cebu.
Here’s a sampling: eating as a social experience, the evolution of Filipino
Visit www.zomato.com
in order to fashion concepts restaurants, while Chefs Sau
ȕʕ¿Þ©©Ð~ÞʕÞÓ¿×ʕ~¿ʕ that fit, said Abba Napa of del Rosario, Rob Pengson
events, and take advantage The Moment Group (8Cuts, and Tristan Encarnacion
of these to connect with Mecha Uma, ‘Cue, Bistro du discussed the importance technology and ever
your customers. Be a part of Vin, Linguini Fini). of finding inspiration from evolving social media, the
the conversation in the lives our culinary traditions while industry needs find ways to
of your consumers, shared ȕʕ$ÞʕÞÄʕ¶¿ÄíʕóÄáÓʕ maintaining these traditions’ keep up. With the summit,
Margot Torres, SVP for customers as expressive integrity. Zomato hopes to let the
marketing of McDonald’s. individuals, savvy and industry know that we
opinionated, experienced Anton Ojeda, country are here to lead the sector
ȕʕ:~Ó¿ʕ~ÄáÞʕÞ¦ʕ#©¸©Ð©¿Äʕ and indulgent, simple and manager of Zomato and help them take their
diner and his preferences, authentic, explained Brian Philippines, declares, “In businesses to a whole new
like the love for food and Winton, general manager of the advent of fast changing level.”
PURPLE YAM
TURNS ONE (From
left) Celebrating
with buko pie
instead of cake; the
appetizer, noritaco
with adlai and uni;
broiled maya maya
with shallots and
mango vinegar
sauce; Amy Besa
blowing out the
candle; the Purple
Yam kitchen crew
A FOOD-FILLED
AFTERNOON
(Clockwise from top)
Culinary experts JP
Anglo, Katherine Jao
and Sharwin Tee;
participants make
a beeline for the
demo dishes; Pancit
Canton with Maling
Pork Leg
H
ow do we define Filipino inadobo, sarsiado, sinigang this variety and techniques Tastings class was all about
food? Is it through its or sinuglaw? How ever we from which Filipino flavors capturing and savoring local
indelible ingredients such identify Filipino food is are made, that makes it flavors using new ways to
as suka, bagoong, patis, toyo ultimately personal—but it’s so refreshing to reinvent cook familiar dishes with the
and calamansi? Maybe it’s also why it’s fun and exciting every time. In keeping with theme “Let’s Cook Pinoy.”
with the homegrown method to cook or eat these dishes FOOD Magazine’s 20th year Held last June 6 at Sarsa
of cooking dishes like in every way possible. It’s anniversary, the 2nd FOOD Kitchen + Bar in Mall of
J
Photos courtesy of YANA GILBUENA
ust like her cooking, featured a five-course inevitable on the menu, was dinner, liquid chef consultant
Yana Gilbuena is menu designed by Yana in placed in a glass bottle, with Ervin Kalel Demetrio created
dynamic, intriguing, partnership with Chef Panky the smoky chicken meat a trio of cocktails using
inventive and Lopez. Just reading through rich with annatto seasoning Destileria Limtuaco’s Pinoy-
unfailingly patriotic. the description of the dishes and ready to be poured over inspired liquors, and coffee
Her pet project, The Salo pricks the curiosity and garlic rice. A lechon kawali was served by KKK Coffee.
Seriest, saw her whip up makes the mouth water. The was paired with paper- Thirty percent of the
50 Filipino-themed pop-up inspiration is traditional thin crisp ube and camote proceeds of each dinner goes
dinners in 50 U.S. states in Ilonggo cuisine but served chips, with sinamak on the to Yana’s chosen charity.
50 weeks. Yana was back in up with a cool, inventive side. Even Ponti’s signature Currently it’s the Relief
Manila last June for a trio spin. porchetta became “Ilonggo- Contingency Plan by The
of pop-up dinners, a rare The batchoy for instance, fied” with the infusion of National Alliance for Filipino
opportunity for Manileños was served deconstructed, lemongrass and served Concerns for victims of
to get a taste of her culinary Tsukemen style, with the with oyster mushrooms typhoon. We can’t wait for
magic. noodles separate from the and kangkong drizzled with Yana’s next series of Salo
The first dinner, called broth and topped with bits of bagoong. For dessert, there dinners.
“Migo Miga Ilonggo crisp chicharon, roasted garlic was avocado panna cotta
Moderno,” was held at Il and tender Japanese-style with condensed milk and To learn more, visit
Ponticello in Makati and pork belly. Chicken inasal, crispy pinipig.To round off thesaloproject.com