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Applying Recommended
Lesson 1 Kind and Rate of Fertilizers
Introduction
This module deals with the knowledge, skills, and attitudes in applying
the recommended kind and rate of fertilizer, performing irrigation and
drainage, weeding and cultivating, controlling insect pests and diseases, and
mulching.
Learning Competencies/Objectives
Diagnostic/Pre-assessment
Directions: Read and understand the questions carefully. Write the letter of
the correct answer in your test notebook.
1. Plants need food to nourish their parts. Which refers to any organic or
inorganic materials of natural or synthetic origin which is added to the soil
to suppy certain elements essential for plant growth?
a. Fertilizers
b. Trace elements
c. Macroelements
d. Microelements
2. The amount of fertilizer to be applied depends on many factors. Which is
the least observed factor regarding the rate of fertilizer application?
a. Nutrient requirement of the plant
b. The manner of applying the fertilizer
c. Environmental factors particularly rainfall
d. The capability of the farmer to supply the neededfertilizer material
3. Which method of fertilizer application is most applicable to seedlings for
their starter solution?
a. Fertigation
b. Broadcasting
c. Foliar application
d. Localized application
4. There are several ways of determining soil fertility which are simple and
complicated. What method observes any abnormal appearance of the
growing plant which maybe caused by a deficiency of one or more
nutrient elements?
a. Soil analysis
b. Plant tissue analysis
c. Field fertilizer trials
d. Nutrient deficiency symptom
5. Which is the primary function of nitrogen?
a. Hastens maturity
b. Aids in seed formation
c. Forms and transfers starch
d. Gives dark green color to plant
6. When the fertilizer materials are uniformly scattered over the entire area,
what is the method of fertilizer application called?
a. Side-dressing
b. Broadcast method
c. Foliar application
d. Band or localized placement
7. Which is not a method of determining soil fertility?
a. Soil analysis
b. Field fertilizer trials
c. Nutrient deficiency symptom
d. Foliar application of fertilizer
8. Which is not a method of conserving soil fertility?
a. Composting
b. Application of organic fertilizer
c. Practice cover cropping and mulching
d. Practice green manuring and intercropping
9. Which fertilizer element hastens maturity, stimulates blooming, aids in
seed formation, and gives plants hardiness?
a. Calcium
b. Nitrogen
c. Phosphorus
d. Potassium
10. Which is not true about organic fertilizers? Organic fertilizers . . .
a. Decomposed farm manures
b. Improve soil physical conditions
c. Facilitate soil erosion
d. Retain soil humidity
KNOW
Activity 1
The way humans, animals, and plants live differ from one another. Let
us find out how they live. Group yourselves into four for the following topics to
discuss. Discuss among yourselves, summarize your ideas, and then present
your output to the class for further discussion.
Plant food. Plants and animals require food for growth and
development. This food is composed of certain chemical elements often
referred to as plant-food elements.
On the other hand, INGO (2005), claimed that a fertilizer is any organic
or inorganic material of natural or synthetic origin, which is added to the soil to
supply certain elements essential to plant growth. Fertilizers are used to
increase the growth rate, yield, and quality or nutritive value of plants. The
manual explained further that for many decades in the past, the term
fertilizers practically meant commercial fertilizers of non-living origin. In recent
years, however, increasing attention has been focused on organic and bio-
fertilizers that are biological sources of plant nutrients.
Kinds of fertilizer
1. Organic fertilizers are farm manures, compost, crop residues, and other
farm wastes, which supply nutrients and improve soil physical conditions.
Organic fertilizer is generally the most valuable soil conditioner. As soil
conditioners, organic fertilizer helps prevent soil erosion, crushing, and
cracking of soil. They retain soil humidity and improve the internal
drainage of the soil. These fertilizers should serve as supplement to
inorganic fertilizers. These improve the physical make-up of the soil
making the soil porous and rich in organic matter as explained by
Sangatan and Sangatan (2000).
Again, Sangatan and Sangatan (2000) enumerated the sources
of organic fertilizer as follows:
Animal wastes: cattle, carabao, pig, goat, poultry, and horse
manure or urine, etc.
Crop wastes: rice straw, corn stalks, weeds, stubbles, plant
leaves, husks, etc.
Human inhabitation wastes: night soil, sewage, and garbage
Green manure: ipil-ipil leaves, legumes, and madre de cacao
leaves
Water crops or plants: water hyacinth (water lily), water alligator,
and water lettuce
Biological organic sources: azolla, and blue green algae
Silt, river mud, and pond mud
By-product of biogas digester, digested sludge, and effluent
Other sources: animal bone, ash, seaweeds, and guano (bat
manure)
2. Inorganic (chemical) fertilizers) usually result from chemical
processes such as sulfuric acid treatment or rock phosphate to produce
superphosphate. It consists of materials processed or transformed into
a chemical material or fertilizer.
Types of fertilizer based on the fertilizer element present
1. Single element fertilizer contains only one of the major
fertilizer elements. Examples: Ammonium sulfate, urea, and
superphosphate
2. Incomplete fertilizer contains only two major elements like
ammophos (nitrogen and phosphorus).
3. Complete fertilizer contains the three primary plant food
elements: nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium.
Table 8. Analysis of common inorganic or commercial fertilizers (INGO 2005)
Percent
Anhydrous ammonia 82 0 0
Ammonium sulfate 21 0 0
Ammonium phosphate 16 20 0
Ammonium chloride 25 0 0
Urea 46 0 0
Superphosphate 0 20 0
Trial superphosphate 0 48 0
Muriate of potash 0 0 60
Sulfate of potash 0 0 50
Complete 14 14 14
Fertilizer Computation
𝑅𝑒𝑐𝑜𝑚𝑚𝑒𝑛𝑑𝑒𝑑 𝑟𝑎𝑡𝑒
(1) Weight of fertilizer material= 𝑥 100
% 𝑛𝑢𝑡𝑟𝑖𝑒𝑛𝑡 𝑜𝑓 𝑓𝑒𝑟𝑡𝑖𝑙𝑖𝑧𝑒𝑟 𝑚𝑎𝑡𝑒𝑟𝑖𝑎𝑙
To get the number of fertilizer bags, divide the weight of nutrients required by
the weight of the nutrients per bag, thus:
Or, divide the weight of fertilizer from formula (1) by the weight per bag, thus,
Sample Computations:
a. Urea (46-0-0)
b. Ordinary Superphosphate (0-20-0)
c. Muriate of Potash (0-0-60)
General Formula:
Weight of Nutrient
Weight of Fertilizer Material (FM) = X 100
% Nutrient
90 𝑥 100 90
Step 1. Weight of Urea = or
46 .46
= 195.65 kg
60 𝑥 100 60
Step 2. Weight of OSP = or
20 .20
= 300 kg
30 𝑥 100 30
Step 3. Weight of MP = or
60 .60
= 50 kg
Step 1.
60x100
Weight of Ammophos =
20
= 300 kg
kilograms.
30𝑥100
For potassium, the amount of muriate of potash is =
60
50kg. So, to meet the 90-60-30 recommendation the following
materials should be applied:
60𝑥100
Weight of CF =
14
= 428.57 kg
From this 428.57kg of complete fertilizer, 60kg each of nitrogen
(N), phosphorus (P2O5) and potassium (K2O) were already satisfied.
However, the recommendation for nitrogen is 100 kg, therefore, it is
short of 40kg. This remaining amount will be supplied by urea which
contains 46% nitrogen.
40𝑥100
Weight of Urea =
46
= 86.96 kg
Villegas and Malixi (1977) stated that to get the maximum benefit, the
fertilizer must be applied where the plant can readily absorb it. Proper
placement of a fertilizer will provide an efficient and continuous supply of plant
nutrient and will prevent salt injury to the seedlings. The following are the
different methods of fertilizer application:
1. Field fertilizer trials. As the term implies, field fertilizer trial experiment
is carried out in the field. It could be conducted in different places under
different seasons. When managed and conducted properly, the results
obtained from this method are very reliable.
2. Chemical analysis
1. Heavy feeders are those crops that utilize a large quantity of all the
three essential plant food elements or it may be a heavy feeder as
regards one element but a light feeder as regards to another.
2. Medium feeders consume not much of the essential plant food
elements.
1. Plant trees: “Roots of trees firmly hold on to the soil. As trees grow
tall, they also keep rooting deeper into the soil. As their roots spread
deep into the layers of soil, they hold it tightly, thus preventing soil
erosion. Soil under a vegetative cover is saved from erosion due to
wind as this cover acts as a wind break.”
2. Build terraces:“Terracing is a very good method of soil conservation.
A terrace is a leveled section of a hilly cultivated area. Owing to its
unique structure, it prevents rapid surface runoff of water. Terracing
gives the landmass a stepped appearance, thus slowing the washing
down of soil. Dry stonewalling is a method used to create terraces in
which stone structures are made without using mortar for binding.”
3. No-till farming (zero tillage):“The process of preparing soil for
plowing is known as tilling. The process of tilling is beneficial in
mixing fertilizers in the soil, making rows and preparing the
surface for planting. But the tilling activity could lead to
compaction of soil, loss of organic matter, and the death of soil
organisms. No-till farming is a way to prevent the soil from this
harm.”
4. Contour plowing: “It is a method of plowing across the contour
lines of a slope. This method helps in slowing the water runoff
and prevents soil from being washed away along the slope.”
5. Crop rotation: “Some pathogens tend to build up in soil if the
same crops are cultivated repeatedly. Continuous cultivation of
the same crop also leads to imbalance in the fertility demands
of the soil. To save the soil from these adverse effects, crop
rotation is practiced. It is a method of growing series of different
crops one after another in a given area. It also helps improve
soil structure and fertility”.http://wwww.buzzle.com/articles/10-ways-to-
conserve-soil.html
“Crop rotation can also decrease the need for inorganic
supplements. Rotation also can have beneficial effects on pest
reduction, and mulches (as in cover crops during dry season)
can decrease weeds and increase retention of soil moisture”.
http://people.oregonstate.edu/~muirp/sustfert.htm
“Bark mulches are best used around trees, shrubs and in garden beds
where you won’t be doing a lot of digging, like front walkways and
foundation plantings. These woody mulches don’t mix well into the soil and
it can become a hassle to have to keep moving them aside to make way for
new plants.”
“Compost and Composted Manure can be used anywhere, as long as
they are relatively well composted and weed free. You can use them as a
coating of mulch or simply side dress plants with them during the growing
season, to insulate and give a boost of slow released nutrients.”
“Grass Clippings are a mixed bag and are best suited to remote areas of
your garden where you basically want to suppress weeds. Grass clippings,
like most green plant debris with high water content, decompose very
rapidly and in the process they can get somewhat slimy, with an unpleasant
odor - so use with discretion. Grass clippings also tend to mat down and
not allow water to pass through.
Ideally you should use a mulching mower and leave the clippings on the
lawn to add fertility to that soil. However if you bag your grass clippings,
don’t throw them away unless you have used weed killer or some other
pesticide on your lawn. Synthetic lawn care products can be bad for some
flowers and you certainly don’t want to use them in your vegetable garden.
But untreated grass clippings can either be dumped into your compost bin
or used to mulch open, unplanted areas.”
Straw and Salt Hay are popular mulches for the vegetable garden. They
keep the soil and soil borne diseases from splashing up on lower plant
leaves and make paths less muddy. Straw decomposes very slowly and
will last the entire growing season. It also makes a nice home for spiders
and other beneficial insects that will move in and help keep the pest
population in control. And finally, it’s easy to either rake up or work into
the soil when it’s time to plant a new crop or put the vegetable garden to
bed. http://gardening
Importance of composting
Sangalang, et.al (1977) claim that the composting process involves
the decomposition of organic materials to form small bits of organic matter
called compost. The whole process is done by organisms that use organic
matter principally as a source of carbon and secondarily as a source of
nitrogen and other elements for their growth and reproduction.
“Browns” – Browns are compost materials that are brown and dry.
Examples of which are sawdust, dried leaves, straw and small
twigs, and others. “Browns” are high in carbon, which for microbes
are energy food.
“Greens” – Greens are compost materials that are green and moist
like kitchen wastes, grass cuttings, and the like. “Greens” are high
in nitrogen, which microbes need to make proteins
Composition of a balanced diet of compost organisms
3. Right temperature
Methods of composting
Composting is the rotting down of plant and animal residues before it
is applied to the soil. The following are the different methods of
composting adapted fromhttp://www.compostjunkie.com/composting-
techniques.html.
1. Sheet Composting
2. In-vessel Composting
4. Trench Composting
5. Bokashi Composting
6. Composting Barrels
7. Vermicomposting
Steps in vermicomposting
a. Gathering of materials
Composting materials such as rice straw, grass, leaves,
kitchen wastes, animal manure, and used mushroom substrate
will be collected and shredded as the earthworm may not be
able to digest them effectively. After which, some animal
manures will be added to increase the nitrogen content of the
materials.
Vermi bed/Wormbed, Courtesy of Bukig National Agricultural & Technical School (BNATS-
Aparri)
Vermi bed/wormbeds may be made out of different materials like iron bars, old
plastic basins, split bamboo, or hollow blocks.
Windrows
Windrows are piles of substrates that are decomposed before feeding them to
the worms. They are usually about one meter wide and at least a meter high and can
be of any length as desired.
Preparation of beddings. Bedding is the living medium for the worms and
also a food source. A wide variety of bedding materials can be used
including newspapers, sawdust, rice straw, pre composted manure, and
dried leaves. After preparing the bedding materials, they should be
subjected to either anaerobic or aerobic decomposition.
Arrange the bedding materials or substrate into a bed about two (2)
feet high under partial shade like a tree. Cover the bed with plastic for two
weeks for anaerobic decomposition by bacteria and fungi present in the
material until the temperature will rise to about 70°C
Remove the plastic cover when the temperature of the bed cools. The
media should smell sweet.
Harvesting, Drying, and Storing. After 45-60 days the vermin compost can
be harvested by passing the composted materials through a sieve to
separate the worms from the decomposed leaves. The worms can be
recycled into other composting beds or made into vermi-meal. The compost
should be spread-over to dry for one day ready for sale. The vermi-cast is
then prepared for packaging. The final products are placed in bags ready for
storage, distribution or for use.
TIPS:
Compost is ready to use when it is dark brown, crumbly, and has
an earthy smell.
Manual extraction. Pick worms by hand and transfer them to a
new wormbed. The vermicompost may be allowed to dry in the
shade for a few days
Pyramid of Egypt. Under the shade, pile the vermicompost in
such a manner that it looks like a pyramid. After a day, you can
harvest the top part easily because the worms have gone to the
bottom of the pile. When you reach the bottom of the pile, you
can extract the worms manually.
Migration. Move the contents of the whole bed to one side. Fill
the empty half with new substrate as food. Allow the worms to
move freely to the new food.
Fill an onion bag with fresh food and bury it in the middle of the
bed. After a week or so, the bag will be filled with worms that you can
empty to a new worm bed. This facilitates the gathering of worms.
Table 9. Composting materials showing the presence of carbon and
nitrogen (http://eartheasy.com/grow_compost.htm)
green comfrey
Nitrogen excellent compost 'activator'
leaves
wood chips /
Carbon high carbon levels; use sparingly
pellets
PROCESS
Activity 2
In your previous activities you discussed among your group
mates how to maintain living things. Among their needs, food is the
most important.
Activity 3
In Activity 2, you found out that your plants suffer from nutritional
deficiency. What are you going to do? What type of fertilizer material are you
going to apply and why?
Do you need to consider the result of soil analysis? Why?
TRANSFER
Activity 4
Now you know what your plants need. The result of your soil analysis
is the basis of determining what kind and rate of fertilizer material you are
going to apply. Prepare your fertilizer and apply it to your plants. Practice the
methods of fertilizer application suited to your plants.
Activity 5
Construct a compost pit/pile in your area. Follow the steps in composting.
Your performance will be rated using the rubric below.
Rubric in making compost piles/pits
Introduction
Learning Competencies/Objectives
1. Benefits of irrigation
2. Factors that determine water deficiency for irrigation schedules
3. Methods of irrigation
4. Causes of loss of irrigation water
Diagnostic/Pre-assessment
Direction: Write true if the statement is correct but if it is false change the
underlined word or group of words to make the sentence correct. Write your
answer in your test notebook.
KNOW
Activity 1
Plants do not only need plant food. They also need other things for
them to live vigorously. With a partner, talk about the following:
5. Color of foliage. Not all plant show temporary wilting when water is
limited. Instead, their leaves turned yellowish as in beans and in
some cases bluish green as in eggplants, as the water is reduced in
the soil. Color is also an indicator of plant variety where there is
nitrogen supply so consider this when analyzing the situation.
6. Rate of growth of the plants. If the rate of growth of the crop is
sluggish, water may not be enough.
7. “Feel of the soil”. Get samples from a depth where most of the roots
occur and try to feel the soil. This depends on the type of the soil.
Methods of irrigation
The are several methods of irrigating the field according to
http://www.wisegeek.com/what-are-the-different-types-of-agricultural-irrigation.htm
6. Drip irrigation is a system that delivers water directly to the root zone
of a plant, where it seeps slowly into the soil one drop at a time.
7. Irrigation by power machinery is done when water pumps are set in
the source of water. Water is then delivered to the field through a water
hose.
8. Irrigation by hand requires hand labor. This system is used only
where a valuable crop can be grown in a small piece of land, as in
school and home gardens. Water is applied either early morning or late
in the afternoon
1. Over irrigation. A farmer should not use more water than his crop
needs. The amount of water needed by crops varies with the crop,
and a farmer should ascertain what amount is for each crop and how
it is best distributed among the different times of application.
2. Poor grading of land. When a piece of land to be irrigated is not
uniformly or properly graded, as for example, when certain spots are
high while others are low, or when there is hardly any grade at all to
allow movement of water by gravity, there will be loss of water.
3. Seepage is the horizontal passage of water from an irrigation canal
through the surrounding ground. Loss of water by seepage is
prevented by lining the canal properly with a clay puddle.
4. Deep percolation. Percolation is the vertical downward movement
of water. Water that sinks much deeper than the roots of the plants
is wasted water. Skillful cultivation should prevent much loss of
water due to deep percolation.
5. Run-off at the ends of fields or furrows. To avoid waste of water
in the form of run offs, it is necessary to supervise carefully the
irrigation work so that only enough water is allowed to flow in the
irrigation furrows.
6. Direct evaporation. This refers to the loss of water from plant parts,
soil surface and even from bodies of water with the aid of sunlight.
Drainage
PROCESS
Activity 2
You have planted your vegetable garden plots. You found out that the
plants are wilting. Find out why your plants are wilting? Is it due to lack of
water? If it is so, what do you do? What method of irrigation are you going to
apply?
REFLECT AND UNDERSTAND
Activity 3
TRANSFER
Activity 4
This time proceed to the vegetable area of your school. Based on your
lessons in irrigation, what irrigation practices can be followed or applied.
Reason out your answers.
Activity 5
Conduct an educational field trip to various farm sites near your school
and observe the methods of irrigation being employed by the farmers
for their crops. Make a written report about your observations.
Summative assessment
Direction: Write true if the statement is correct but if it is false change the
underlined word or group of words to make the sentence correct. Write your
answer in your test notebook.
Introduction
This lesson deals with the knowledge, skills, and attitudes in cultivating
the soil and controlling the growth of weeds.
Learning Competencies/Objectives
1. Importance of weeding
2. Principles of weed control
3. Types of weeds
4. Methods of controlling weeds
5. Objectives and methods of cultivation
6. Frequency of cultivation
7. Time of cultivation
8. Depth of cultivation
9. Tools and implements in cultivation
Diagnostic/Pre- assessment
Directions: Read and understand the questions carefully. Write the letter of
the correct answer in your test notebook.
B. Fill in the blank with a word or group of words to complete the sentence.
Write all answers in your test note book.
1. The method of controlling weeds, which is not environmentally friendly, is
_________________.
KNOW
Activity 1
The last activity you did in your garden was supplying water and
removing excess water. You will find out that, as your plants grow, some
unwanted plants are also growing, but these plants are nuisance to your
cultivated crops.
Weeding. Weeds are many home gardeners’ biggest enemy. Herbicides and
other chemicals may seem like the best weapon in the arsenal against
weeds; however, many experts discourage the use of chemicals. They can
leach into fruits and vegetables. They can also runoff and trickle down into
groundwater.
Students of Jones Rural School, Jones, Isabela weeding their vegetable garden
Build healthy soil with compost and mulch – soil organisms protect
plants from many diseases and insect pests problems.
Select pest-resistant plants, and place them under the sun or under
shade with proper growing medium.
Clean up disease-infected plants, and compost dead plants to
reduce hiding places for insect pests.
Pull weeds before they produce seeds and spread.
Use a variety of plants, so if pests attack one plant, others can fill
its place.”
2. “Biological control. Natural predators often bring pests under control,
but they need time to work. Most bugs are good bugs: only about 5%
of the bugs in your yard are pests. “Good bugs” like ground beetles,
ladybugs, and lacewings help control pests. Do not spray at the first
sign of damage – nature may control it for you, or plants often just
outgrow the damage.
Other biological control measures are by pasturing and using
clean seeds for planting.”
Pesticides (weed and bug killers) can damage soil and plant health,
poison wildlife like birds and salmon, and harm our family’s health. The good
news is that we really do not need those chemicals to grow a healthy and
attractive landscape. Try these natural methods.
“Be sure to read, understand, and follow all of the label directions when
mixing and applying herbicides.
Make sure the label clearly states that the product can be used in the
manner you intend to use it.
Remember, more is not better. Use the application rate on the label.
Some herbicides are selective, and only kill certain types of plants,
while others are non-selective and kill almost any type of plant.
Some herbicides kill weeds quickly, others can take up to a week or
more.
Some herbicides persist in plants and soils for long periods, while
others only remain in plants or soil for a short time.
Some herbicides have active ingredients that are more likely to move
through soils towards groundwater. Others are much less likely to
move through soils.” http://npic.orst.edu/pest/weeds.html
4. Cultural methods
The different types of weeds are discussed by INGO (2005) and Calacala
(1977) as follows:
Philippines Bulangtiribuhan
Tagalog Bulangtiribuhan
Ilocano Dalakayang, Dakayan
Thailand Thai-Yak Nok Sri Champu
II. Sedges. Sedges are similar to grasses but have three-ranked leaves and
triangular solid stems. They frequently have modified rhizomes for storage
and propagation.
Examples of sedges
1. Fimbristylislittoralis Gaud.
Local names:
Tagalog Ubod-ubod
Pangasinan Gumi
Ilocano Siraw-siraw
2. Cyperusiria Linn.
Local names:
Philippines Alinang, sud-sud
Japan Kogome-gayatsuri
1. MonochariavaginalisPresl.
Local names:
Philippines Gabing-uwak
Tagalog Biga-bigaan
Ilocano Bil-lagut
Bicol Upiup
2. SphenocleazeylanicaGaertu.
Local names:
Philippines Dilangbutiki
Tagalog Silisilihan
Visaya Mais-mais
Cultivation
Benefits of cultivation:
1. Control the growth of weeds. Weeds are referred to as the chief plant
competitor. There is a saying that goes, “The best way to control
weeds is to remove the bitter roots,” and this is only accomplished
through cultivation.
2. Cultivation aerates the soil to facilitate the respiration of plant roots and
microorganisms as well as to supply nitrogen for nitrogen-fixing
organisms. During the rainy season, the soil lacks air because spaces
in between soil particles are filled with water. If you drain the soil, soil
air can circulate in between soil particles. Cultivation also creates more
spaces between soil particles to accommodate air.
3. Cultivation helps conserve food materials in the soil. It is generally
known, however, that when cultivation control weeds, moisture is
conserved because dead weeds have no more chance to use the soil
moisture as well as food nutrients in the soil.
4. Cultivation makes the top soil loose to increase its capacity to absorb
water.
There are two ways of cultivating the crops according to the
Training Manual in Horticulture prepared by the Maddela Institute of
Technology (2007). These are:
Hilling-up.
Hilling-up usually refers to loosening or breaking the around the
growing plants either in rows or per hill. This is done by cultivating the
soil towards the base of the plant. The primary purpose is to cover the
applied fertilizer, cover the base of the plant, and to control the growth
of weeds.
Off – barring. The soil is cultivated away from the growing plants.
Frequency of cultivation
The ideal way of taking care of an annual crop like vegetables is
to keep the field free from weeds and the soil in good tilth all the time
through cultivation. This is usually done in gardening and so, when a
field receives about the same amount of attention, we often say we
“garden” the field. By this, we simply mean we give the field a very
intensive care just as we generally do to a garden.
Depth of cultivation
Time of cultivation
Cultivation is done after planting and before the crops cover the
ground. Since cultivation is actually a process of working the soil, the rules
governing plowing with reference to the condition of the soil should apply to
cultivation.
Below is the timetable of when to hill-up the following vegetable crops
according to the Training Manual in Horticulture prepared by the Maddela
Institute of Technology (2007).
Tools/implements/equipment in cultivation
Cultivator
A cultivator is an implement used for cultivation and consists usually of
a frame to which shares are attached. Cultivators may be either propelled by
hand or drawn by work animals, tractor, or cable and are used in cultivating
wide vast of land.
Hand cultivators are cultivators that are used with hand power.
Animal drawn cultivators are preferred than hand machinery because
they are more economical to operate.
Tractor cultivators are not used in the culture of annuals or crops which
require fairly close distancing since the tractors need a good deal of free
space for passage.
PROCESS
Activity 2
Activity 3
TRANSFER
Activity 4
Write a short report of about 100 words. The report should include:
3. How did you feel about the work you have done in your garden?
Quarter 4
Introduction
This lesson deals with the knowledge, skills, and attitudes in controlling
the occurrence of insect pests and diseases.
Learning Competencies/Objectives
Direction: Read and understand the questions carefully and write the letter
of the correct answer in your test notebook.
3
4
6
7
9
10
B. Matching type. Match the items in Column A with the items in Column B.
Write the letter of your answer in your test notebook.
COLUMN A COLUMN B
1. Entomology a. building or placing of effective barriers
2. Quarantine to control spread of diseases
3. Pathogen b. the study of insects and their control
4. Sucking insects c. causal organisms of diseases
5. Chewing insects d. any abnormal condition that will affect
6. Metamorphosis the normal function of plant parts
7. Roguing e. the changes in the life of an insect
8. Disinfection f. the removal of a diseased infected
9. Protection plant
10. Disease g. the direct killing of the pathogen while
it is in its host or in the environment
of the host
h. group of insects that sucks plant juices
i. group of insects that eats parts of the
plant
j. separation and restriction of movement
of persons, animals, plants, etc.
intended to stop the spread of
infectious diseases
KNOW
Activity 1
1. Divide the class into two. One group will imitate the actions of an
insect. The other group will guess the action done by the first
group. If the guessing group guesses correctly the action, the
acting group will earn a point. Then the groups will exchange task.
The guessing group will do the acting and the acting group will
guess.
2. This time go to your garden and catch some of the insects you find
there. Get also some parts of the plants damaged by insects.
Describe the insects and describe the damage done to the plants.
Pests in any form are the farmers’ enemy and they cause enormous
damage to their crops. Most often, pests spell the difference between high
and little or no harvest at all. The quantity and quality of harvests are impaired
through the production of smaller produce, a change in the taste and smell,
discoloration of the plant, and even the presence of insects in the plants. The
quantity and quality of production does not only depend on the skill of the
farmer, but also the farmer’s knowledge of how to control pests.
http://www.reachoutmichigan.org/funexperiments/agesubject lessons/insect.html
Concepts and facts about insects
Concepts:
Facts:
The head is the anterior of the three body regions of an adult insect. It
bears the eyes (usually a pair of compound eyes), the antennae, and
the mouthparts.
The thorax is the middle of the three body regions of an adult insect. It
is composed of 3 segments. It bears 3 pairs of legs (one on each
segment) and usually 2 pairs of wings. Some insects have only 1 pair
of wings.
The wings. Most adult insects have two pairs of wings, but some (for
example flies) have only 1 pair of wings. Usually the wings are
membranous but in some insects, they can be leathery or hard.
Sometimes the wings bear hairs or small scales.
The legs. Adult insects have six legs. Each of the segments of
the thorax bears 1 pair of legs. The legs are segmented. Often the last
segment of the leg bears a small claw. In some insects, the legs are
specially adapted for jumping.
A small number of insects give live birth to their young, but for
most insects, life starts inside the egg. Hard shells protect insects’
eggs, and although they are tiny and inconspicuous, they are often laid
in vast numbers. A female housefly for example may lay more than
1,000 eggs in a two-week period.
The Egg
The Pupa
In other insects, such as grasshoppers and aphids, the young insect (nymph) looks
like the parent when hatched. It sheds its exoskeleton several times, as it grows. INGO
(2005).
Ways how insects damage plants
Calacala (1977) stated that insects are classified as to how they damage the
crops and how these insects are controlled.
1. by chewing
Insects feed by chewing some portions of the plant like leaves, stems, flower,
and fruits. They have horn-like jaws, which they use for biting and chewing
grasshoppers, caterpillars, grubs, and
beetles are examples of these insects.
Cutworm
2. by sucking
2. by lapping
mouth parts of these insectsenable them to
lap or lick liquids from outer surfaces of
objects on which they feed. Apple maggots
and cherry fruit flies are examples of lapping
insects.
Insects are enemies of farmers. According to Reyes (1977), there are several
methods of controlling insects. These are:
1. Stomach poisons are spray, dust, or dips that kill the insect
when they are swallowed.
2. Contact poisons are spray, dust or dips that kill the insects
without being swallowed.
Examples:
d. Repellants are substances that keep insects away from crops and
animals because of their offensive appearance, odor, or taste.
a. Rotating crops
b. Tilling of the soil
c. Varying the time or method of planting or harvesting
d. Destroying crop residues, weeds, volunteer plants, and trash
e. Using resistant varieties
f. Pruning, thinning
g. Fertilizing and stimulating vigorous growth
IV. Biological Control. This is the introduction, encouragement, and
artificial increase of predaceous and parasitic insects.
a. Protection and encouragement of insectivorous birds and other
animals
b. The use of growing plants to destroy, repel or prevent damage by
insects
V. Legal Control. This is the eradication of insects by controlling human
activities.
VI. Natural Control. Not all of the control measures that destroy or
check insects do not depend upon man for their continuance or
success. Some cannot even be influenced by man. These
include:
1. Climatic factors such as rainfall, sunshine, cold, heat, and wind.
Bacterial wilt of melon – wilting Downy mildew of melon – leaf Downy mildew of luffa – leaf
plant symptoms symptoms
Fusarium wilt of cucumber – Cottony leak of cucumber – decaying Bacterial soft rot of cabbage
yellowing and wilting plants fruit and fungal mycelium of core and internal head
tissue
Xanthomonas leaf spot of Chinese Bacterial soft rot – collapsing Bacterial wilt – vascular
Cabbage fruit in the field discoloration in lower stem
and roots
Cercospora leaf spot (Frogeye) – Pepper mild mottle (PMMV) – Powdery mildew (Leveillula) -
gray-brown circular lesions with mild mosaic in leaves leaf yellowing and necrosis evident
light colored center the upper surface of leaves
A. Before application
1. Read the label
Determine the target organism.
Identify the rate and time of application.
Wear personal protective equipment (PPE).
Remember the antidotes and other safety measures.
Observe field re-entry intervals after treatment.
2. Check the sprayer
Fill the tank with plain water and test the sprayer to be used that
there are no leaks or loose connections and the equipment is
working properly.
Repair or replace any worn-out or faulty part.
3. Mixing and filling
Extra precaution is necessary when mixing and filling sprayers
because pesticides are concentrated.
Wear personal protective equipment.
Open pesticide container carefully to avoid splashes, spills, or
drifts.
Keep your head away from the opening of the sprayer.
Wash and change clothes immediately if pesticide is spilled on
clothing.
Do not use bare hands in mixing pesticides, nor allow concentrated
materials to touch bare skin.
B. During application
1. Wear personal protective equipment.
2. Do not eat, drink, smoke, or blow clogged nozzles with your mouth
while applying pesticides.
3. Do not spray when it is windy to avoid pesticide drift.
4. Spray areas near homes in early mornings or evenings when humans,
pets and livestock are less likely to be exposed.
C. After application
1. Store remaining pesticides properly.
2. Bathe and change clothing after application of pesticides.
3. Stay away from treated field one to two days. This prevents poisoning
through contact with treated plants, or inhalation of pesticide fumes.
PROCESS
Activity 2
Activity 3
A. Make a reaction with 100 words about the picture below showing a one-
year old boy chewing a fresh bitter gourd fruit from the garden.
Principle X - Do no harm.
This is really the first rule of plant pathology. Certainly, our state
and federal governments are ignoring this rule when they downgrade
our quarantine system. However, this rule is really aimed at the farmer
or homeowner who tries to control disease without really
understanding plant pathology. Diseases are commonly caused by
overwatering and over fertilization by well meaning gardeners. Plant
pathologists term efforts to control disease that result in worse disease
as boomerang effects. A classic example of the boomerang effect
occurs if a soil-borne pathogen reinvades fumigated soil. Without
natural enemies to reduce its spread, it often becomes far worse than it
would have been before fumigation. Disease trading is another term
that results when one disease is controlled but another is caused by
the same treatment.
TRANSFER
Activity 4
Summary/Feedback
Direction: Read and understand the questions carefully and write the letter
of the correct answer in your test notebook.
Building blocks in insects. Identify the statements below and fill in each
block with a letter that corresponds with your answer. The number of blocks
determines the number of letters of the correct answer. Again, write your
answer in you test notebook.
3
4
6
7
9
10
COLUMN A COLUMN B
Introduction
This lesson deals with the knowledge, skills, and attitudes in mulching.
Learning Competencies/Objectives
1. Importance of mulching
2. Kinds of mulch materials
3. Procedures in placing mulch materials
Pre – assessment
True or False. Write true if the statement is correct and false if it is wrong.
1. Organic mulches enrich the soil as they decay and
provide a better environment for plant growth.
2. Placing mulch over the garden plots conserve soil
moisture, control the growth of weeds and increase soil
erosion.
3. Mulching reduces the work of cultivation around the
growing plants, thus, decreases the labor and cost of
weeding.
4. Compost is the best mulching material for home and
school gardens.
5. Quality harvests are obtained when the soil is covered
with mulch materials.
KNOW
Activity 1
Have you ever seen garden plots covered with plastic? What do
you they are? Have you also seen garden plots covered with dried leaves,
sawdust, or rice hull? What is the gardener’s purpose of placing them there?
10. Mulching reduces the work of cultivation around the growing plants,
thus, cuts the labor of weeding to almost nothing.
Mulching materials
Many materials can be used as mulching materials. The
following mulching materials discussed below are good examples:
1. Compost is generally the best mulching material
for home and school gardens. It is usually free of
weed seeds and is inexpensive. They are just
present in the backyard. Apply at least 10 cm thick
as mulch layer.
2. Straw is short lived and coarse textured. More straw is needed for
the same effect as compost or lawn clippings. Place at least 7-8 cm
thick of this material for better effect.
3. Sawdust is a common mulching material that can be easily
collected. If well manage, it can be good mulch. It can result in a
temporary, but sharp, decrease in soil nitrogen. Add a small amount of
garden fertilizer to the soil after applying sawdust directly to a garden.
Even better, add nitrogen to sawdust, and then compost it before
spreading it on your garden.
4. Plastic is effective mulch if used properly. Use black plastic in the
summer to warm the soil. Black plastic keeps light from the soil and
prevents weeds from growing. Clear plastic warms the soil, but weeds
can grow beneath the plastic. Plastic mulches can be used not only
once, but, the disadvantage is plastic mulch cannot be turned under
the soil at the end of the season.
4. Quality harvests are obtained when the soil is covered with mulch
materials. Mulches prevent the direct contact of garden fruits with
the soil keeping them clean and other damages.
PROCESS
Activity 2
Activity 3
Activity 4
Summary/Feedback
Direction: True or False. Write true if the statement is correct and false if it is
wrong.
1. Organic mulches enrich the soil as they decay and
provide a better environment for plant growth.
2. Placing mulch over the garden plots conserve soil
moisture, control the growth of weeds and
increase soil erosion.
4. Mulching reduces the work of cultivation around the
growing plants, thus, decreases the labor and cost of
weeding.
5. Compost is the best mulching material for home and
school gardens.
6. Quality harvests are obtained when the soil is covered
with mulch materials.
GLOSSARY
References
Caoili, A.A. and M.R. De Vera. 1977. Water Management for Vegetable Crop
Production. In: Vegetable Production.
Garcia, L.B., P.C. de Castro, R.G. Asuncion, Jr., A.J. Gamiron, E.B. Javier,
E.D. Serrano, A.B. Resureccion, and S.A. Yano. 1991 Safety
Precautions When Working. In: Technology and Home Economic II.
First Edition. Instructional Materials Corporation (IMC), University of
the Philippines, Diliman, Quezon City, Philippines. 390 pp.
Reyes, P.L. 1977. Insects and their Control. Lecture Note in Agronomy 22-
Field Crop Production. Institute of Agriculture, Araneta University
Foundation.
Villegas, L.M. and M.M. Malixi. 1977. Principles of Fertilizer Use. In:
Vegetable Production,…..
http://www.agritech.tnau.ac.in/agriculture/agri_nutrientmgt_methodsoffertilizer
appln.html
eartheasy.com/grow-compost.htm
http://www.compostjunkie.com/composting-techniques.html
http://people.oregonstate.edu/~muirp/sustfert.htm
http://www.extension.iastate.edu/CropNews/2008/0604MAlKaisiMHelmers.ht
m
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soil_conservation
http://www.reachoutmichigan.org/funexperiments/agesubject
lessons/insect.html