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Quarter 3

LESSON: Produce Vegetables

Module 5: Maintain the Growth of Vegetable Crops


1. Apply recommended kind and rate of fertilizers
2. Perform irrigation and drainage practices
3. Practice weeding and cultivation
4. Control insect pests and diseases
5. Perform mulching

Content Standard Performance Standard


The learner demonstrates The learner independently
understanding in maintaining the maintains the growth of plants
growth of plants. according to the approved practices
as specified in the Vegetable
Production Manual (VPM).

Applying Recommended
Lesson 1 Kind and Rate of Fertilizers

Introduction

This module deals with the knowledge, skills, and attitudes in applying
the recommended kind and rate of fertilizer, performing irrigation and
drainage, weeding and cultivating, controlling insect pests and diseases, and
mulching.

Learning Competencies/Objectives

This lesson has the following learning competencies/objectives:

1. Kinds and rate of fertilizers


2. Plant food elements
3. Nutrient content of inorganic fertilizer
4. Fertilizer computation
5. Fertilizer application
6. Loss of nutrients from the soil
7. Methods of conserving soil fertility
8. Composting

Diagnostic/Pre-assessment

Directions: Read and understand the questions carefully. Write the letter of
the correct answer in your test notebook.

1. Plants need food to nourish their parts. Which refers to any organic or
inorganic materials of natural or synthetic origin which is added to the soil
to suppy certain elements essential for plant growth?
a. Fertilizers
b. Trace elements
c. Macroelements
d. Microelements
2. The amount of fertilizer to be applied depends on many factors. Which is
the least observed factor regarding the rate of fertilizer application?
a. Nutrient requirement of the plant
b. The manner of applying the fertilizer
c. Environmental factors particularly rainfall
d. The capability of the farmer to supply the neededfertilizer material
3. Which method of fertilizer application is most applicable to seedlings for
their starter solution?
a. Fertigation

b. Broadcasting
c. Foliar application
d. Localized application
4. There are several ways of determining soil fertility which are simple and
complicated. What method observes any abnormal appearance of the
growing plant which maybe caused by a deficiency of one or more
nutrient elements?
a. Soil analysis
b. Plant tissue analysis
c. Field fertilizer trials
d. Nutrient deficiency symptom
5. Which is the primary function of nitrogen?
a. Hastens maturity
b. Aids in seed formation
c. Forms and transfers starch
d. Gives dark green color to plant
6. When the fertilizer materials are uniformly scattered over the entire area,
what is the method of fertilizer application called?
a. Side-dressing
b. Broadcast method
c. Foliar application
d. Band or localized placement
7. Which is not a method of determining soil fertility?
a. Soil analysis
b. Field fertilizer trials
c. Nutrient deficiency symptom
d. Foliar application of fertilizer
8. Which is not a method of conserving soil fertility?
a. Composting
b. Application of organic fertilizer
c. Practice cover cropping and mulching
d. Practice green manuring and intercropping
9. Which fertilizer element hastens maturity, stimulates blooming, aids in
seed formation, and gives plants hardiness?
a. Calcium
b. Nitrogen
c. Phosphorus
d. Potassium
10. Which is not true about organic fertilizers? Organic fertilizers . . .
a. Decomposed farm manures
b. Improve soil physical conditions
c. Facilitate soil erosion
d. Retain soil humidity

KNOW

Activity 1

Human beings, animals, and plants need a lot of things in order to


live. These three living things have symbiotic relationships. The absence of
one will make life miserable.

The way humans, animals, and plants live differ from one another. Let
us find out how they live. Group yourselves into four for the following topics to
discuss. Discuss among yourselves, summarize your ideas, and then present
your output to the class for further discussion.

Group 1 – How do human beings maintain a healthy life?

Group 2 – How do animals live?

Group 3 – How do plants complete their life cycle?


Group 4 – What is the symbiotic relationship of humans, animals, and plants
like?

Reading Resources and Instructional Activities

Apply Recommended Kind and Rate of Fertilizers

Plant food. Plants and animals require food for growth and
development. This food is composed of certain chemical elements often
referred to as plant-food elements.

Table 7. Plant food elements and their functions (Mcvickar 1970)

Plant Chemical Functions


Macro- Nutrient Symbol
Elements Nitrogen N Promotes dark green color;
leaf, stem, and fruit
development; and hastens
growth and increases the
protein content of the crop.
Phosphorous P2O5 Favors rapid plant growth and
development; hastens fruiting
and maturity; and improves
the quality of the crop.
Potasium K2O Hastens maturity; stimulates
blooming; aids in seed
formation; and gives plants
hardiness.
Calcium Ca Corrects acidity; acts as
protective sieve for the nitrates
to set through in passing into
the cells; and acts as a
cement between the walls of
the cells to hold them together.
Magnesium Mg The key element in the
molecule of chlorophyll and
Mg combines with the
phosphates so that the latter
can move to their proper
places in the plant.
Sulfur S Gives green color to the
younger leaves including the
veins.
Manganese Mn Gives green color to the
younger leaves including the
veins.
Boron B Boron hunger results in a
reddish-yellow discoloration
and often there is purplish
tone, first seen on the margins
of the leaves or the tip half.
Copper Cu Helps in seedstalk formation.
Zinc Zn Treats abnormally small
leaves or leaves that are
yellow or mottled in
appearance.
Iron Fe Treats chlorosis
Molybdenum Mo Influences the utilization of
nitrogen by the plant and it is
requiredbefore nitrogen-fixing
bacteria can utilize
atmospheric nitrogen.
Chlorine Cl Tends to concentrate in some
plants, in the veins and floral
parts, and appears to be tied
up in some way in the
formation of the red, blue, and
violet pigments. Hastens
maturity.
Plant food refers to the necessary materials which a plant uses so it
can build new tissues and, at the same time, carry on its normal functions.

According to Mcvickar (1970), fertilizer is any manufactured or


processed material or mixture of materials that contains one or more of the
recognized plant-food elements, in liquid or dry form.

On the other hand, INGO (2005), claimed that a fertilizer is any organic
or inorganic material of natural or synthetic origin, which is added to the soil to
supply certain elements essential to plant growth. Fertilizers are used to
increase the growth rate, yield, and quality or nutritive value of plants. The
manual explained further that for many decades in the past, the term
fertilizers practically meant commercial fertilizers of non-living origin. In recent
years, however, increasing attention has been focused on organic and bio-
fertilizers that are biological sources of plant nutrients.

The proper usage of fertilizers requires knowledge not only of their


properties but also of their effects on soil. The amount of fertilizer to be
applied depends on many factors, which include the nutrient requirement of
the plants, the ability of the soil to supply nutrients, yield potential, other
management practices, the capability of the farmer, and other environmental
factors particularly rainfall.

Kinds of fertilizer

1. Organic fertilizers are farm manures, compost, crop residues, and other
farm wastes, which supply nutrients and improve soil physical conditions.
Organic fertilizer is generally the most valuable soil conditioner. As soil
conditioners, organic fertilizer helps prevent soil erosion, crushing, and
cracking of soil. They retain soil humidity and improve the internal
drainage of the soil. These fertilizers should serve as supplement to
inorganic fertilizers. These improve the physical make-up of the soil
making the soil porous and rich in organic matter as explained by
Sangatan and Sangatan (2000).
Again, Sangatan and Sangatan (2000) enumerated the sources
of organic fertilizer as follows:
 Animal wastes: cattle, carabao, pig, goat, poultry, and horse
manure or urine, etc.
 Crop wastes: rice straw, corn stalks, weeds, stubbles, plant
leaves, husks, etc.
 Human inhabitation wastes: night soil, sewage, and garbage
 Green manure: ipil-ipil leaves, legumes, and madre de cacao
leaves
 Water crops or plants: water hyacinth (water lily), water alligator,
and water lettuce
 Biological organic sources: azolla, and blue green algae
 Silt, river mud, and pond mud
 By-product of biogas digester, digested sludge, and effluent
 Other sources: animal bone, ash, seaweeds, and guano (bat
manure)
2. Inorganic (chemical) fertilizers) usually result from chemical
processes such as sulfuric acid treatment or rock phosphate to produce
superphosphate. It consists of materials processed or transformed into
a chemical material or fertilizer.
Types of fertilizer based on the fertilizer element present
1. Single element fertilizer contains only one of the major
fertilizer elements. Examples: Ammonium sulfate, urea, and
superphosphate
2. Incomplete fertilizer contains only two major elements like
ammophos (nitrogen and phosphorus).
3. Complete fertilizer contains the three primary plant food
elements: nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium.
Table 8. Analysis of common inorganic or commercial fertilizers (INGO 2005)

Percent

Material N P2O5 K2O

Anhydrous ammonia 82 0 0

Ammonium sulfate 21 0 0

Ammonium phosphate 16 20 0

Ammonium chloride 25 0 0

Urea 46 0 0

Superphosphate 0 20 0

Trial superphosphate 0 48 0

Muriate of potash 0 0 60

Sulfate of potash 0 0 50

Complete 14 14 14

Fertilizer Computation

To supply a certain amount of plant nutrients, determine the amount of


fertilizer to be applied per hectare based on the composition of the fertilizer
materials to be used.

Here are some examples of how to determine the amount of fertilizer.

According to Bautista as cited by Nitural (Undated), fertilizer grade or


analysis refers to the minimum guarantee of the nutrient content in terms of
percent total N, percent available P2O5, and percent water soluble K20 in a
fertilizer. For example, the fertilizer grade of ammonium sulfate contains 21 kg
available N but it does not contain P2O5 and K2O, therefore the remaining 79
kg represents the materials termed as ”carriers” or “fillers”. A mixed complete
fertilizer with a grade of 12-24-12 contains 12%N, 24% available P2O5 ,and
12% K2O, respectively.

The fertilizer recommendation is expressed in kilograms N, kilograms


P2O5 and kilograms K2O per hectare, respectively. In technical publications,
this is written as, 90-60-30. This recommendation involves the application of
90 kg N, 60 kg P2O5 and 30 kgK2O5 per hectare, respectively.

To calculate the weight of fertilizer, divide the recommended rate by


the nutrient content of the fertilizer material (from the grade or analysis).
Thus:

𝑅𝑒𝑐𝑜𝑚𝑚𝑒𝑛𝑑𝑒𝑑 𝑟𝑎𝑡𝑒
(1) Weight of fertilizer material= 𝑥 100
% 𝑛𝑢𝑡𝑟𝑖𝑒𝑛𝑡 𝑜𝑓 𝑓𝑒𝑟𝑡𝑖𝑙𝑖𝑧𝑒𝑟 𝑚𝑎𝑡𝑒𝑟𝑖𝑎𝑙

To get the number of fertilizer bags, divide the weight of nutrients required by
the weight of the nutrients per bag, thus:

𝑊𝑒𝑖𝑔ℎ𝑡 𝑜𝑓 𝑓𝑒𝑟𝑡𝑖𝑙𝑖𝑧𝑒𝑟 𝑚𝑎𝑡𝑒𝑟𝑖𝑎𝑙


(2) Number of fertilizer bag =
𝑊𝑒𝑖𝑔ℎ𝑡 𝑜𝑓 𝑛𝑢𝑡𝑟𝑖𝑒𝑛𝑡 𝑝𝑒𝑟 𝑏𝑎𝑔 (𝑘𝑔)

Or, divide the weight of fertilizer from formula (1) by the weight per bag, thus,

𝑊𝑒𝑖𝑔ℎ𝑡 𝑜𝑓 𝑓𝑒𝑟𝑡𝑖𝑙𝑖𝑧𝑒𝑟 𝑚𝑎𝑡𝑒𝑟𝑖𝑎𝑙


Number of fertilizer bag =
𝑊𝑒𝑖𝑔ℎ𝑡 𝑝𝑒𝑟 𝑏𝑎𝑔

Sample Computations:

a. Recommended rate: 90-60-30 NPK/ha

Available Fertilizer Materials:

a. Urea (46-0-0)
b. Ordinary Superphosphate (0-20-0)
c. Muriate of Potash (0-0-60)
General Formula:

Weight of Nutrient
Weight of Fertilizer Material (FM) = X 100
% Nutrient

90 𝑥 100 90
Step 1. Weight of Urea = or
46 .46

= 195.65 kg

60 𝑥 100 60
Step 2. Weight of OSP = or
20 .20

= 300 kg

30 𝑥 100 30
Step 3. Weight of MP = or
60 .60

= 50 kg

b. Recommended Rate: 90-60-30 kg NPK/ha

Available Fertilizer Materials:

a. Ammonium phosphate (Ammophos) (16-20-0)


b. Ammonium sulfate (21-0-0)
c. Muriate of potash (0-0-60)

Step 1.

60x100
Weight of Ammophos =
20

= 300 kg

Note: since ammophos contains two elements, nitrogen (16%N) and


phosphorous (20%P2O5) therefore, we already satisfied the 60 kg
requirement for P2O5 and another 60 kg for nitrogen. Again, since the
recommended rate for N is 90 kg/ha therefore, we have not satisfied
yet its amount. However, we should not forget that ammophos contains
both nitrogen and phosphorus and these two are inseparable,
therefore, from the 300kg ammophos there is still nitrogen present. To
determine the amount of nitrogen in 300 kg ammophos, it can be
computed by multiplying the value by 16 and divide it by 100 thus,
300𝑥16
= 48 kilograms. Sincethe recommendation requires 90kg
100
nitrogen, 42kg N is still needed. This amount can be supplied by
42𝑥100
ammonium sulfate which contains 21% nitrogen, thus = 200
21

kilograms.

30𝑥100
For potassium, the amount of muriate of potash is =
60
50kg. So, to meet the 90-60-30 recommendation the following
materials should be applied:

Ammophos (16-20-0) = 300kg

Ammonium sulfate (21-0-0) =200kg

Muriate of potash (0-0-60) = 50kg

2. Recommended Rate : 100-60-60 NPK/ha

Available Fertilizer Materials:

4. Complete Fertilizer (CF) (14-14-14)


5. Urea (46-0-0 )
Step 1. Compute the amount of fertilizer (14-14-14) needed.

60𝑥100
Weight of CF =
14

= 428.57 kg
From this 428.57kg of complete fertilizer, 60kg each of nitrogen
(N), phosphorus (P2O5) and potassium (K2O) were already satisfied.
However, the recommendation for nitrogen is 100 kg, therefore, it is
short of 40kg. This remaining amount will be supplied by urea which
contains 46% nitrogen.

Step 2. Compute the remaining amount of 40kg nitrogen which will be


taken from Urea (46-0-0).

40𝑥100
Weight of Urea =
46

= 86.96 kg

Methods of fertilizer application

Villegas and Malixi (1977) stated that to get the maximum benefit, the
fertilizer must be applied where the plant can readily absorb it. Proper
placement of a fertilizer will provide an efficient and continuous supply of plant
nutrient and will prevent salt injury to the seedlings. The following are the
different methods of fertilizer application:

1. Broadcast method. The fertilizer material is applied uniformly over the


entire area before planting or while the crop is growing. Topdressing
refers to broadcast application on growing crops.
Uniform distribution of the fertilizer enables safe application of
large quantities of fertilizer without injuring the crop. However, it may
reduce fertilizer efficiency because of fertilizer fixation or by
volatization.
2. Localized application. The fertilizer is applied close to the seed or
plant, either in band adjacent to the plant rows (side dressing) or by
plow-sole application. In the plow-sole method, the fertilizer is covered
lightly with soil before seeding or planting. Localized application is
essential for high rate applications of high analysis fertilizers. This
method is commonly used for most vegetables.
3. Foliar application. Plant nutrients may be applied on the aerial part of
the plant. The dissolved nutrient must penetrate the cuticle of the leaf
or the stomata and then enter the plant cells. This method is usually
employed only in applying micronutrients. Marginal leaf-burn could
occur with the application of high concentrations of fertilizer.
4. Applied with the seed – Fertilizer is broadcast together with the
seeds or the seeds are coated with fertilizer by means of an adhesive
such as cellofas or gum Arabic.
5. Fertigation – This involves dissolving the fertilizer materials in water
and then applying it with the use of a sprinkler.

Methods of determining soil fertility

Training Manual in Horticulture NC II (2007),lists the methods of


determining soil fertility as follows:

1. Field fertilizer trials. As the term implies, field fertilizer trial experiment
is carried out in the field. It could be conducted in different places under
different seasons. When managed and conducted properly, the results
obtained from this method are very reliable.

2. Soil analysis. It is a rapid method of assessing the fertilizer needs of


crops. The principle involved is that the amounts of available nutrients in
the soil are directly related up to a critical point with the growth and yield
of crop.

Soil analysis consists of four phases namely:

1. Proper collection of soil samples

2. Chemical analysis

3. Interpretation of analytical results

4. Formulation of fertilizer recommendation


3. Plant tissue analysis. This is customarily made of fresh plant tissue
in the field. It is a quick test and is important in the diagnosis of the needs
of growing plants. Sap from ruptured cells is tested for assimilated N-P-K.
Tests for other elements such as Mg and Mn are also done. The
concentration of the nutrients in the cell sap is usually a good indication
of how well the plant is supplied at the time of testing.

4. Nutrient deficiency symptom. An abnormal appearance of the


growing plant may be caused by a deficiency of one or more nutrient
elements. This visual method of evaluating soil fertility is unique and it
requires no expensive equipment. It can also be used as a supplement to
other diagnostic techniques.

Loss of nutrients from the soil

The fertility of the soil is not lasting. It is usually lost through


mismanagement by farmers who work in the land. There are many ways
in which soil fertility is depleted.

 Loss of nutrient from the crops. Plants utilize large quantities of


nutrients from the soil for their growth. The plants having reached their
maturity are harvested and sold. Thus, the organic matters and the
minerals that composed the harvested crops are taken away from the
farm. The constant removal of soil fertility through the crops will make
the soil poor. This is the reason why production will decrease year by
year if we do not fertilize our crops.
The amount of soil nutrient lost through the crops depends on
the kind of crops grown. Crops may be classified into three categories:

1. Heavy feeders are those crops that utilize a large quantity of all the
three essential plant food elements or it may be a heavy feeder as
regards one element but a light feeder as regards to another.
2. Medium feeders consume not much of the essential plant food
elements.

3. Light feeders consume only a little amount of the plant food


elements.

 Loss of nutrients through surface run-off. Rain water or excess


irrigation water which runs off the surface of the ground may carry not
only soil particles and the food they contain but also the plant food
which gets dissolved in the running water.
 Loss of nutrients through leaching. Even if we do not plant, the
minerals in the soil may be lost by leaching, which is when the soluble
substances go with the water that drains down to the lower depths of
the soil beyond the reach of the roots. This is especially true in cases
of sandy soil.
 Soil erosion. This is the greatest enemy of the farmer. Erosion is the
removal of soil from the field through natural forces.

“Soil nutrients are lost through harvesting, leaching, prolonged wet


weather, flooding, and de-nitrification. Sustainable agriculture
involves returning nutrients to the soil in the form of green manure, crop
residues, composted manure, and other wastes to improve and maintain
soil life. During the growing season, plants fix carbon dioxide by
photosynthesis. Around 20 to 25 percent of this fixed carbon is returned
to the soil through plant roots.

Healthy soil consists of fungi, microbes, earthworms, macro fauna and


micro/mesofauna. Sustainable agriculture involves not only the physical
properties and mineral structure of the soil, but also the process by which
organic matter is transformed into humus by microbes, fungi, earthworms
etc. Incorporating crop residue and other organic matter into the soil
promotes microbial growth which in turn promotes humus production and
soil fertility”. http://ecochem.com/trial_fvr_master.html

“A heavy rainstorm may splash as much as 90 tons of soil per


acre. However, the majority of the soil splashed is not immediately lost
from the field. Most of the splashed soil particles do not leave the field;
they clog surface pores, which in turn reduce water infiltration, increases
water runoff, and increases soil
erosion”.http://www.extension.iastate.edu/CropNews/2008/0604MAlKaisiMHelmers.htm

Methods of conserving soil fertility


Soil is one of the most important natural resources. We need to
devise and implement ways of conserving soil.

Ways of conserving soil fertility according to http://www.buzzle.com/articles/10-


ways-to-conserve-soil.html

1. Plant trees: “Roots of trees firmly hold on to the soil. As trees grow
tall, they also keep rooting deeper into the soil. As their roots spread
deep into the layers of soil, they hold it tightly, thus preventing soil
erosion. Soil under a vegetative cover is saved from erosion due to
wind as this cover acts as a wind break.”
2. Build terraces:“Terracing is a very good method of soil conservation.
A terrace is a leveled section of a hilly cultivated area. Owing to its
unique structure, it prevents rapid surface runoff of water. Terracing
gives the landmass a stepped appearance, thus slowing the washing
down of soil. Dry stonewalling is a method used to create terraces in
which stone structures are made without using mortar for binding.”
3. No-till farming (zero tillage):“The process of preparing soil for
plowing is known as tilling. The process of tilling is beneficial in
mixing fertilizers in the soil, making rows and preparing the
surface for planting. But the tilling activity could lead to
compaction of soil, loss of organic matter, and the death of soil
organisms. No-till farming is a way to prevent the soil from this
harm.”
4. Contour plowing: “It is a method of plowing across the contour
lines of a slope. This method helps in slowing the water runoff
and prevents soil from being washed away along the slope.”
5. Crop rotation: “Some pathogens tend to build up in soil if the
same crops are cultivated repeatedly. Continuous cultivation of
the same crop also leads to imbalance in the fertility demands
of the soil. To save the soil from these adverse effects, crop
rotation is practiced. It is a method of growing series of different
crops one after another in a given area. It also helps improve
soil structure and fertility”.http://wwww.buzzle.com/articles/10-ways-to-
conserve-soil.html
“Crop rotation can also decrease the need for inorganic
supplements. Rotation also can have beneficial effects on pest
reduction, and mulches (as in cover crops during dry season)
can decrease weeds and increase retention of soil moisture”.
http://people.oregonstate.edu/~muirp/sustfert.htm

6. Apply fertilizers. This would involve applying fertilizer


only when the crop is there (or nearly there, as when it has just
been planted or just before that) and able to take it up .
http://people.oregonstate.edu/~muirp/sustfert.htm

7. Utilize crop residues more effectively.


8. Utilize manure more effectively.
9. Watering the soil: “Watering the soil is a good measure of
soil conservation. Watering the soil along with plants growing in
it is a way to prevent soil erosion caused by wind.”
10. Mulching. Mulch is any type of material that is spread or
laid over the surface of the soil as a covering. It is used to
retain moisture in the soil, suppress weeds, keep the soil cool
and make the garden bed look more attractive. Organic
mulches also help improve the soil’s fertility, as they
decompose.
http://gardening.about.com/od/gardenmaintenance/a/Mulch.htm

Organic Mulches and their Uses

 “Bark mulches are best used around trees, shrubs and in garden beds
where you won’t be doing a lot of digging, like front walkways and
foundation plantings. These woody mulches don’t mix well into the soil and
it can become a hassle to have to keep moving them aside to make way for
new plants.”
 “Compost and Composted Manure can be used anywhere, as long as
they are relatively well composted and weed free. You can use them as a
coating of mulch or simply side dress plants with them during the growing
season, to insulate and give a boost of slow released nutrients.”
 “Grass Clippings are a mixed bag and are best suited to remote areas of
your garden where you basically want to suppress weeds. Grass clippings,
like most green plant debris with high water content, decompose very
rapidly and in the process they can get somewhat slimy, with an unpleasant
odor - so use with discretion. Grass clippings also tend to mat down and
not allow water to pass through.
Ideally you should use a mulching mower and leave the clippings on the
lawn to add fertility to that soil. However if you bag your grass clippings,
don’t throw them away unless you have used weed killer or some other
pesticide on your lawn. Synthetic lawn care products can be bad for some
flowers and you certainly don’t want to use them in your vegetable garden.
But untreated grass clippings can either be dumped into your compost bin
or used to mulch open, unplanted areas.”

 “Newspaper as mulch is becoming more and more popular. Most


newspapers have switched over to organic dyes, especially for their black &
white sections. Shredded newspapers have been used for years to keep
plant roots moist while shipping. Layered sheets of newspaper also have
great moisture retention abilities and they act like other organic mulches as
far as suppressing weeds and controlling soil temperatures. They are also
great for smothering existing grass, to jump start a new garden bed.
To use as mulch in the garden, spread a layer of 4 - 8 sheets of newspaper
around the plants. Moisten the sheets to keep them in place. On windy
days it’s easier to moisten the sheets before you place them down. Cover
the newspaper with a 1-3 inch layer of another organic mulch and the weed
protection should last throughout the growing season.”

 “Shredded Leaves are nature’s favorite mulch. Shredded leaves can be


used as mulch anywhere and have the added bonus of being free.”

 Straw and Salt Hay are popular mulches for the vegetable garden. They
keep the soil and soil borne diseases from splashing up on lower plant
leaves and make paths less muddy. Straw decomposes very slowly and
will last the entire growing season. It also makes a nice home for spiders
and other beneficial insects that will move in and help keep the pest
population in control. And finally, it’s easy to either rake up or work into
the soil when it’s time to plant a new crop or put the vegetable garden to
bed. http://gardening

Soil conservation is a set of management strategies for preventing


the soil from being eroded or becoming chemically altered by
overuse, acidification, salinization, or other chemical soil contamination. It
is a component of environmental soil science.

“There are conventional practices that farmers have used for


centuries. These fall into two main categories: contour
farming and terracing, There are many erosion control examples such
as conservation tillage, crop rotation, and growing cover crops.
Windbreaks are created by planting sufficiently dense rows of trees at
the windward exposure of an agricultural field subject to wind erosion.
”http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soil_conservation
Students of the Jones Rural School performing composting (traditional way) during their TVE class.

Soil organisms. “When worms excrete egesta in the form of casts,


a balanced selection of minerals and plant nutrients is made into a form
accessible for root uptake. US research shows that earthworm casts are
five times richer in available nitrogen, seven times richer in
available phosphates and eleven times richer in available potash than the
surrounding upper150 mm of soil. The weight of casts produced may be
greater than 4.5 kg per worm per year. By burrowing, the earthworm is of
value in creating soil porosity, creating channels enhancing the
processes of aeration and drainage”.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soil_conservation

Importance of composting
Sangalang, et.al (1977) claim that the composting process involves
the decomposition of organic materials to form small bits of organic matter
called compost. The whole process is done by organisms that use organic
matter principally as a source of carbon and secondarily as a source of
nitrogen and other elements for their growth and reproduction.

If the organic matter contains little or no N, the microorganism gets it


from the soil. A majority of the decomposers are microorganism.
Microorganisms such as earthworms, termite, and other insects also
contribute in breaking down organic materials. Therefore, the two
requirements for the process to occur are (1) composting materials and (2)
decomposers to speed up the process. The composting materials must be
easy to decompose, and the needs of the microorganisms must be
adequately supplied.

What do compost organisms need?

According to INGO (2005), the needs of the compost organisms are:

1. Balanced diet of compost materials

 “Browns” – Browns are compost materials that are brown and dry.
Examples of which are sawdust, dried leaves, straw and small
twigs, and others. “Browns” are high in carbon, which for microbes
are energy food.
 “Greens” – Greens are compost materials that are green and moist
like kitchen wastes, grass cuttings, and the like. “Greens” are high
in nitrogen, which microbes need to make proteins
Composition of a balanced diet of compost organisms

If you add about 3 parts of browns to 1 part of greens, then the


compost organisms will have a balanced diet.

3. Right amount of air and water


If there is the right amount of oxygen and moisture, microbes
can rapidly grow and multiply. If there is too much or too little water,
then the microbes die.

Compost materials should have a thin film of water around


them, and many pore spaces filled with air.

3. Right temperature

Organic materials will eventually decay even in a cold compost


pile. However, the decay process is sped up in a hot compost pile.
When bacteria and fungi grow rapidly, they burn a lot of food, and give
off a lot of heat. If the compost pile is big enough, the heat will build up
inside the pile. Bacteria that grow well at high temperature take over
and speed up the decay process.

Methods of composting
Composting is the rotting down of plant and animal residues before it
is applied to the soil. The following are the different methods of
composting adapted fromhttp://www.compostjunkie.com/composting-
techniques.html.

1. Sheet Composting

“Sheet composting, also known as sheet mulching, can be a great way


to add organic matter back into your soils. Essentially, this composting
technique entails spreading thin layers of organic materials (i.e. compost
ingredients) on top of the soil surface. Some also consider this technique to
be "composting in place." Using green manure is another means of sheet
composting. This technique is often used on a large scale; however, it can
also be done successfully in your backyard.”

2. In-vessel Composting

“In-vessel composting is becoming more and more popular with large-


scale compost producers. This method involves composting within an
enclosed containment system, often a large cylindrical-shaped container. The
equipment involved in setting up an in-vessel composting system is typically
quite expensive, and therefore usually limits it's usage to industrial-sized
composting operations. There are numerous benefits of in-vessel composting,
such as an increased processing speed, year-round composting, and a highly
controlled environment.”
3. Anaerobic Composting

“Anaerobic composting describes the biological breakdown of organic


materials by living anaerobic organisms. This may not be the most odor-
rific composting method, but it can be quite effective. Some of the benefits of
composting anaerobically include the following: it is one of the most basic
means of producing compost; it can be done on a small scale; and it typically
produces more humus per unit of starting material than most other
composting methods.”

4. Trench Composting

“Trench composting involves digging holes in your garden soil and


burying raw compost ingredients. Some people swear by this method,
whereas others want nothing to do with it. Similar to anaerobic composting,
this method of decomposition is quite simple; however, the materials tend to
take longer to breakdown than when using other composting techniques.”

5. Bokashi Composting

“Bokashi is a Japanese term meaning fermented organic matter.


Therefore, bokashi composting describes the making of compost via
fermentation. To achieve optimal results, your compost materials are
inoculated with a microbial starter culture, and placed inside a sealed
container. These starter cultures consist of several different species of
microorganisms, all of which thrive in anaerobic conditions. One of the most
popular microbial inoculants is called Effective Microorganisms or EM.”

6. Composting Barrels

“Composting barrels, or compost tumblers, are a great composting


technique for backyard growers. They are self-contained, clean, and if big
enough, can produce a fair amount of compost in a short period.”

“You can buy composting barrels from a commercial supplier or you


save your money and make one yourself.”

7. Vermicomposting

Composting is the process of converting organic materials like


leaves and animal manure into “humus” an organic matter through
decomposition by the action of microbes and other organisms. Humus is
rich in nutrients and contributes to soil texture and water retention.

According to Lomat (undated), normal decomposition of grass cuttings can


take up to six months. However, this can be accelerated to as short as 30
– 45 days by the use of earthworms to digest the organic materials. This
is called vermicomposting (vermis in Latin) that yield beneficial by-
products known as vermicompost or vermicast. In a single process, two
products are produced: the vermicast which is pure worm excreta and the
worm biomass.

The production of vermi compost is timely since inorganic fertilizer


is now becoming very expensive and there is also an increasing demand
for organically produced agricultural crops. An added benefit is that the
earthworm can be made into high protein animal and fish feed
supplement.

Steps in vermicomposting

a. Gathering of materials
Composting materials such as rice straw, grass, leaves,
kitchen wastes, animal manure, and used mushroom substrate
will be collected and shredded as the earthworm may not be
able to digest them effectively. After which, some animal
manures will be added to increase the nitrogen content of the
materials.

b. Selecting the site


The site should be airy, dry, near water source, and raw
materials for the food of the earthworms. The temperature of the
area should be around 260C
c. Selecting the worm housing

Vermi bed/Wormbed, Courtesy of Bukig National Agricultural & Technical School (BNATS-
Aparri)

Vermi bed/wormbeds may be made out of different materials like iron bars, old
plastic basins, split bamboo, or hollow blocks.

Windrows
Windrows are piles of substrates that are decomposed before feeding them to
the worms. They are usually about one meter wide and at least a meter high and can
be of any length as desired.

Preparation of beddings. Bedding is the living medium for the worms and
also a food source. A wide variety of bedding materials can be used
including newspapers, sawdust, rice straw, pre composted manure, and
dried leaves. After preparing the bedding materials, they should be
subjected to either anaerobic or aerobic decomposition.

Anaerobic decomposition (10-14 days).

Arrange the bedding materials or substrate into a bed about two (2)
feet high under partial shade like a tree. Cover the bed with plastic for two
weeks for anaerobic decomposition by bacteria and fungi present in the
material until the temperature will rise to about 70°C

Aerobic decomposition (30-35 days)

Remove the plastic cover when the temperature of the bed cools. The
media should smell sweet.

Maintenance of the worm beds

When the bedding materials reached the moisture content of


about 60-80% (when a fistful is squeezed a few drops of water should
fall), the earthworms will be placed on top at the rate of 1 kg per square
meter. Put sidings of hollow blocks or sawali. Protect against birds, cats,
rats etc., as well as heavy rains as nutrients will leach.

Harvesting, Drying, and Storing. After 45-60 days the vermin compost can
be harvested by passing the composted materials through a sieve to
separate the worms from the decomposed leaves. The worms can be
recycled into other composting beds or made into vermi-meal. The compost
should be spread-over to dry for one day ready for sale. The vermi-cast is
then prepared for packaging. The final products are placed in bags ready for
storage, distribution or for use.

TIPS:
Compost is ready to use when it is dark brown, crumbly, and has
an earthy smell.
 Manual extraction. Pick worms by hand and transfer them to a
new wormbed. The vermicompost may be allowed to dry in the
shade for a few days
 Pyramid of Egypt. Under the shade, pile the vermicompost in
such a manner that it looks like a pyramid. After a day, you can
harvest the top part easily because the worms have gone to the
bottom of the pile. When you reach the bottom of the pile, you
can extract the worms manually.
 Migration. Move the contents of the whole bed to one side. Fill
the empty half with new substrate as food. Allow the worms to
move freely to the new food.

PARTIAL EXTRACTION WITH NET BAG

Fill an onion bag with fresh food and bury it in the middle of the
bed. After a week or so, the bag will be filled with worms that you can
empty to a new worm bed. This facilitates the gathering of worms.
Table 9. Composting materials showing the presence of carbon and
nitrogen (http://eartheasy.com/grow_compost.htm)

Material Carbon/Nitrogen Information

table scraps Nitrogen add with dry carbon items

fruit & vegetable


Nitrogen add with dry carbon items
scraps

eggshells Neutral best when crushed

leaves break down faster when


leaves Carbon
shredded

add in thin layers so they don't


grass clippings Nitrogen
mat into clumps

garden plants -- use disease-free plants only

lawn & garden only use weeds which have not


Nitrogen
weeds gone to seed

woody prunings are slow to break


shrub prunings Carbon
down

straw is best; hay (with seeds) is


straw or hay Carbon
less ideal

green comfrey
Nitrogen excellent compost 'activator'
leaves

pine needles Carbon acidic; use in moderate amounts

flowers, cuttings Nitrogen chop up any long woody stems

apply in thin layers; good source


seaweed and kelp Nitrogen
for trace minerals

only use ash from clean


wood ash Carbon
materials; sprinkle lightly
chicken manure Nitrogen excellent compost 'activator'

coffee grounds Nitrogen filters may also be included

tea leaves Nitrogen loose or in bags

avoid using glossy paper and


newspaper Carbon
colored inks

avoid using glossy paper and


shredded paper Carbon
colored inks

cardboard Carbon shred material to avoid matting

slow to decompose; best if


corn cobs, stalks Carbon
chopped up

dryer lint Carbon best if from natural fibers

high carbon levels; add in layers


sawdust pellets Carbon
to avoid clumping

wood chips /
Carbon high carbon levels; use sparingly
pellets

PROCESS

Activity 2
In your previous activities you discussed among your group
mates how to maintain living things. Among their needs, food is the
most important.

Go to your garden and observe/diagnose your plants. Are they


doing well? Do they need something? Remember that they are in their
vegetative growth. Present your findings and compare them to the
findings of your classmates. Make a summary of your observations
and submit it to your teacher.

REFLECT AND UNDERSTAND

Activity 3
In Activity 2, you found out that your plants suffer from nutritional
deficiency. What are you going to do? What type of fertilizer material are you
going to apply and why?
Do you need to consider the result of soil analysis? Why?

TRANSFER

Activity 4
Now you know what your plants need. The result of your soil analysis
is the basis of determining what kind and rate of fertilizer material you are
going to apply. Prepare your fertilizer and apply it to your plants. Practice the
methods of fertilizer application suited to your plants.

Activity 5
Construct a compost pit/pile in your area. Follow the steps in composting.
Your performance will be rated using the rubric below.
Rubric in making compost piles/pits

CRITERIA LEVEL 4 ( 5 LEVEL 3 ( 4 LEVEL 2 (3 LEVEL


points) points) points) 1(1 point)
1.Collaborative Willingly Needs Requires No
Effort participates encourageme prompting to involveme
in group work nt to work with nt
participate the group
with group
mates
2.Skills/Proces a. No
ses a. Proper use a. Good use a. Needs
attempt
a. Handling of of of assistance in
to
materials materials materials handling of
handle
b.Following b. Follows all b. Missed tools. tools.
steps steps some steps b. Does not
b. No
correctly. follow the
attempt
stepsto do
correctly.
the
work.
3.Safety Use of PPE all Uses PPE Requires No PPE to
Measures the time sometimes prompting to use.
use PPE
4.Use of Uses Fail to use 2 Fail to use No
materials complete and specific more than materials
specific materials. two specific to use.
materials. materials.

5. Timeliness Finishes work Finishes 75% Finishes 50% Finishes


before the of the work. of the work. 25% of
deadline. the work.
Quarter 4

LESSON: Produce Vegetables

Module 5: Maintaining the Growth of Vegetable Crops

1. Apply recommended kind and rate of fertilizers


2. Perform irrigation and drainage practices
3. Practice weeding and cultivation
4. Control of insect pests and diseases
5. Perform mulching

Content Standard Performance Standard


The learner demonstrates The learner independently
understanding in performing performs irrigation and
irrigation and drainage drainage practices according
practices. to approved practices.

Lesson 2 Performing Irrigation and


Drainage Practices

Introduction

This lesson deals with the knowledge, skills, and attitudes in


maintaining the growth of plants. It includes irrigation and drainage practices.

Learning Competencies/Objectives

1. Benefits of irrigation
2. Factors that determine water deficiency for irrigation schedules
3. Methods of irrigation
4. Causes of loss of irrigation water
Diagnostic/Pre-assessment

Direction: Write true if the statement is correct but if it is false change the
underlined word or group of words to make the sentence correct. Write your
answer in your test notebook.

1. All plants show temporary wilting when water is limited.


2. Irrigation by machinery is practiced in small areas like school and
backyard gardens.
3. Irrigation is a guarantee for the quick germination of seeds and for
securing early maturity of some crops.
4. Transpiration refers to the loss of water from plant parts, soil surface
and even from bodies of water with the aid of sunlight.
5. The removal of excess water from the field is called drainage.

KNOW

Activity 1

Plants do not only need plant food. They also need other things for
them to live vigorously. With a partner, talk about the following:

1. When do you irrigate and drain your plants?


2. What are the importance of irrigation and drainage?
3. What are the methods of irrigation?
List down your answers and compare them with the answers of the
other pairs. After comparing with all pairs, summarize your ideas and present
these to the class for further discussion.
Reading Resources and Instructional Activities

Perform irrigation and drainage practices

Agricultural irrigation is the application of water to crops through


artificial means. Irrigation is primarily used in areas with sporadic rainfall or
potential drought conditions to ensure that crop soil receives adequate water
for cultivation. The water utilized in agricultural irrigation can come from
various sources, such as groundwater, rivers, springs, lakes, wells, or surface
water.
Benefits of irrigation

1. Irrigation is insurance against drought.


2. It enables the growing of quick maturing crops.
3. It is a guarantee to the quick germination of seeds.
4. It is a means of securing early maturity on most crops.
5. It increases the quality, attractive appearance, and yield of crops.

How to measure soil moisture

According to Caoili and De Vera (1977), the technical methods used to


measure soil moisture content at periodic intervals during the growing
season are:

1. Direct method by gravimetric with oven drying. The method


involves the weighing of the wet sample, removing the water by oven
drying, and reweighing the sample to determine the amount of water
removed. The percentage of water in the sample on a dry-weight basis
is obtained by dividing the difference between wet and dry masses by
the mass of the dry sample, and multiplying by 100.
2. Use of tensiometer. Tensiometer measures soil water content. Water
content in the soil is then obtained from the calibration curve relating
soil suction to water content values for specific soils.
3. Electrical resistance method. A porous block connected by suitable
electrodes to an ohmmeter is imbedded in the soil. Equilibrium is
attained when water ceases to flow into or out of the block. The
electrical resistance corresponding to the water content at equilibrium
is recorded in the ohmmeter and is regarded as an index of soil water
content.
4. Temporary wilting. When water stress occurs in a plant, cells lose
turgidity and plants show symptoms of wilting. Temporary wilting
may occur at mid-day when water demand reaches its climax,
especially during the hottest months of the year. Soil moisture may
really be adequate but transpiration may outpace water absorption. If
this is the case, the plant will recover by evening. However, if plants
wilt in the morning continuously for 3-4 days, water may indeed be
lacking and the crop must be irrigated immediately.

5. Color of foliage. Not all plant show temporary wilting when water is
limited. Instead, their leaves turned yellowish as in beans and in
some cases bluish green as in eggplants, as the water is reduced in
the soil. Color is also an indicator of plant variety where there is
nitrogen supply so consider this when analyzing the situation.
6. Rate of growth of the plants. If the rate of growth of the crop is
sluggish, water may not be enough.
7. “Feel of the soil”. Get samples from a depth where most of the roots
occur and try to feel the soil. This depends on the type of the soil.

Table 10. Types of soil and when irrigation is needed.

Types of soil Irrigation is needed

Sandy Appears to be dry, but does not form a ball when


squeezed
Loam Somewhat crumbly but holds together

Clayey Somewhat pliable, forms a ball, and is oo dry to form


ribbon easily (ribbon is formed between thumb and
forefinger)

8. Sand-cum-soil-mini plot technique. It involves digging a one cubic


meter pit in one part of the field. Mix 5% sand to the soil that has
been dug and return it to the pit. Now the soil has reduced water
holding capacity. The crop including the test plot is planted as usual.
The plants in the test plot will start to wilt 2-3 days ahead of those in
the field. Irrigation must be done when wilting is observed in the test
plot.

Methods of irrigation
The are several methods of irrigating the field according to
http://www.wisegeek.com/what-are-the-different-types-of-agricultural-irrigation.htm

1. “Manual irrigation is one of the most basic types of agricultural


irrigation. Farmers or laborers use watering cans to saturate the crops
by hand. Since manual irrigation is often time consuming and
physically demanding, it tends to be used for small farms or in poverty-
stricken areas.”
2. “Before advances were made in irrigation technology, surface
irrigation tended to be the most implemented irrigation system for large
scale watering. In surface irrigation, small canals are dug across the
entire length of the crop area and water is poured at the top of the
canals. Surface irrigation uses no pumps or other mechanisms and
relies on gravity to distribute water across crops through the canals.”
3. “Sub-irrigation is a method often used for vegetable crops such as
peppers or tomatoes. The method applies water to crops from below
the soil’s surface. A pipe system is buried beneath the roots of the
crops and the water is pumped upwards into the roots to ensure the
roots receive the correct water amounts.”
4. “Center pivot irrigation uses an automated system of sprinklers that
are attached to fixed towers in the center of the crop area. The
sprinklers rotate in a circular motion to evenly distribute water across
the entire crop area. Center pivot is often used in flat, spacious crop
areas.”
5. Windmill irrigation is done by a machine that harnesses wind energy
for a purpose like grinding grain, pumping water, or generating
electricity.

Windmill (Courtesy of Bukig NATS – Aparri)

6. Drip irrigation is a system that delivers water directly to the root zone
of a plant, where it seeps slowly into the soil one drop at a time.
7. Irrigation by power machinery is done when water pumps are set in
the source of water. Water is then delivered to the field through a water
hose.
8. Irrigation by hand requires hand labor. This system is used only
where a valuable crop can be grown in a small piece of land, as in
school and home gardens. Water is applied either early morning or late
in the afternoon

Causes of loss of irrigation water

According to Calacala (1977), the causes of loss of irrigation


water are:

1. Over irrigation. A farmer should not use more water than his crop
needs. The amount of water needed by crops varies with the crop,
and a farmer should ascertain what amount is for each crop and how
it is best distributed among the different times of application.
2. Poor grading of land. When a piece of land to be irrigated is not
uniformly or properly graded, as for example, when certain spots are
high while others are low, or when there is hardly any grade at all to
allow movement of water by gravity, there will be loss of water.
3. Seepage is the horizontal passage of water from an irrigation canal
through the surrounding ground. Loss of water by seepage is
prevented by lining the canal properly with a clay puddle.
4. Deep percolation. Percolation is the vertical downward movement
of water. Water that sinks much deeper than the roots of the plants
is wasted water. Skillful cultivation should prevent much loss of
water due to deep percolation.
5. Run-off at the ends of fields or furrows. To avoid waste of water
in the form of run offs, it is necessary to supervise carefully the
irrigation work so that only enough water is allowed to flow in the
irrigation furrows.
6. Direct evaporation. This refers to the loss of water from plant parts,
soil surface and even from bodies of water with the aid of sunlight.

Drainage

Drainage is defined as the process of removing excess water


from the soil in order to increase its productivity.

Drainage is important on lands for growing vegetable upland crops.


This requirement has particular reference to fertilizer application,
mechanical weeding and cultivation, aeration, soil temperature and
structure, readiness for the next rotation of crop, early and deep root
development, and many others.

The lack of drainage systems where it is required leads to gradual


rise of the water table, water logging, salinity or alkalinity problems.
Lands with long years of poor drainage provisions may be rendered
unproductive (Caoili and De Vera, 1977).

According to Calacala (1977), there are benefits derived from


drainage as follows:

1. It improves the tilth of the soil.

2. It leads to the improvement of soil aeration.

3. It improves the temperature condition of the soil.

4. It increases availability of plant food.

5. It encourages multiplication and development of useful organisms


in the soil.

6. It increases benefits obtained from the use of fertilizers.


Systems of drainage

Drainage systems may be divided into two categories, surface and


subsurface. Each has several components with similar functions but different
names. At the lower, or disposal, end of either system is an outlet. In order of
decreasing size, the components of a surface system are the main collection
ditch, field ditch, and field drain; and for a subsurface system, main, submain,
and lateral conduits from the submain. The outlet is the point of disposal of
water from the system; the main carries water to the outlet; the submain or
field ditch collects water from a number of
outlets.http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/294780/irrigation-and-
drainage/67760/Types-of-drainage-systems

PROCESS

Activity 2

You have planted your vegetable garden plots. You found out that the
plants are wilting. Find out why your plants are wilting? Is it due to lack of
water? If it is so, what do you do? What method of irrigation are you going to
apply?
REFLECT AND UNDERSTAND

Activity 3

Conduct an interview with farmers about their irrigation and drainage


practices.

Prepare interview questions based on the following:

1. What crops do they need to irrigate?


2. What method of irrigation are they practicing?
3. How often they irrigate their crops?
4. What problems do they encounter in irrigating their field?

TRANSFER

Activity 4

This time proceed to the vegetable area of your school. Based on your
lessons in irrigation, what irrigation practices can be followed or applied.
Reason out your answers.

Activity 5

Conduct an educational field trip to various farm sites near your school
and observe the methods of irrigation being employed by the farmers
for their crops. Make a written report about your observations.
Summative assessment

Direction: Write true if the statement is correct but if it is false change the
underlined word or group of words to make the sentence correct. Write your
answer in your test notebook.

1. All plants show temporary wilting when water is limited.


2. Irrigation by machinery is practiced in small areas like school
and backyard gardens.
3. Irrigation is a guarantee for the quick germination of seeds and
for securing early maturity of some crops.
4. Transpiration refers to the loss of water from plant parts, soil
surface and even from bodies of water with the aid of sunlight.
5. The removal of excess water from the field is called drainage.
Quarter 4

LESSON: Produce Vegetables

Module 5: Maintaining the Growth of Vegetable Crops

Content Standard Performance Standard

The learner demonstrates The learner independently


understanding in weeding and
performs weeding and
cultivation.
cultivation following the
approved practices.

Lesson 3 Perform weeding and


cultivation

Introduction

This lesson deals with the knowledge, skills, and attitudes in cultivating
the soil and controlling the growth of weeds.

Learning Competencies/Objectives

1. Importance of weeding
2. Principles of weed control
3. Types of weeds
4. Methods of controlling weeds
5. Objectives and methods of cultivation
6. Frequency of cultivation
7. Time of cultivation
8. Depth of cultivation
9. Tools and implements in cultivation
Diagnostic/Pre- assessment

Directions: Read and understand the questions carefully. Write the letter of
the correct answer in your test notebook.

A. 1. Which of the following is not a good reason for removing or controlling


weeds?
a. Weeds increase land value.
b. Weeds cause a decrease in crop production.
b. Weeds increase labor cost and cost of production.
d. Weeds harbor plant pests, which may affect plant growth and yield.
2. Which of the following is a cultural method of controlling weeds?
a. Burning
b. Cutting
c. Cover cropping
d. Uprooting the weeds.
3. Which method of controlling weeds should be the last result because it is
not environmentally friendly?
a. Biological method
b. Chemical method
c. Mechanical method
d. Physical method
4. What is the most effective way to control the growth of weeds?
a. Spray herbicides.
b. Remove weeds as they appear.
c. Control weeds before their reproductive stage.
d. Cut the weeds before they grow taller than the plants.
5. What is the best time to cultivate the soil?
a. After draining the field
b. After watering or irrigating
c. Upon the appearance of weeds
d. After planting and before the crop covers the ground.

B. Fill in the blank with a word or group of words to complete the sentence.
Write all answers in your test note book.
1. The method of controlling weeds, which is not environmentally friendly, is
_________________.

2. ________________method of weed control is depriving the weeds of


complete sunlight, cutting, and burning.

3. _______________cause decrease in crop yield because they compete for


nutrients, moisture, light, and space.

4._______________is a tillage operation of loosening or breaking up the soil


to maintain it in a condition favorable for the crop.
5. Cultivating the soil around or between vegetable crops should be done at a
depth of about ____________.

KNOW

Activity 1

The last activity you did in your garden was supplying water and
removing excess water. You will find out that, as your plants grow, some
unwanted plants are also growing, but these plants are nuisance to your
cultivated crops.

Again, go to your own groupings and discuss the following topics:

1. What are weeds?


2. Why do we need to control the growth of weeds?
3. What are the methods of controlling weeds?
4. Why do we need to cultivate?

Reading Resources and Instructional Activities

Weeding. Weeds are many home gardeners’ biggest enemy. Herbicides and
other chemicals may seem like the best weapon in the arsenal against
weeds; however, many experts discourage the use of chemicals. They can
leach into fruits and vegetables. They can also runoff and trickle down into
groundwater.

Students of Jones Rural School, Jones, Isabela weeding their vegetable garden

Weeds can cause considerable yield losses in vegetable crops


because the weeds compete for light, water, carbon dioxide, and soil
nutrients with the cultivated crops and weeds can be alternate hosts
for crop pests and pathogens.

“Weeds, in general, precede crops on farming lands and are


major yield reducing factors. In ecological terms, most annual weeds
are strategists, establishing populations with high relative growth rate.
Thus, they produce numerous viable seeds and their populations
quickly build up, in an exponential pattern. Weed competition with
crops reduces agricultural output (quantity and quality), and
increases external costs by spreading them across farm boundaries. It
is also a major constraint to increased farmers’ productivity,
particularly in developing countries where weed control claims 20 to
50 % of farmers’ time and keep smallholders in a vicious circle of
poverty.” home/managing-ecosyhttp://www.fao.org/agriculture/crops/thematic-
sitemap/theme/spi/scpi-stems/integrated-weed-management/en/

Paller and Soriano (1977) explain that cultivating when weeds


are still small, and when the vegetables are still small, will result in
efficient weed control before weeds offer serious competition to the
crops.

Methods of weed control

The following methods of weed control were adapted from


http://www.seattle.gov/util/EnvironmentConservation/MyLawnGarden/PestWeedDiseaseCont
rol/index.htm

1. “Start with prevention. Prevention also known as exclusion begins


with securing clean seeds and feed sources. Every opportunity should
be taken to prevent new weeds from being introduced to the farm.
Care should be taken to select seeds and feed sources that are free of
weed species that are not currently present on the farm, particularly
invasive or noxious weed species.

 Build healthy soil with compost and mulch – soil organisms protect
plants from many diseases and insect pests problems.
 Select pest-resistant plants, and place them under the sun or under
shade with proper growing medium.
 Clean up disease-infected plants, and compost dead plants to
reduce hiding places for insect pests.
 Pull weeds before they produce seeds and spread.
 Use a variety of plants, so if pests attack one plant, others can fill
its place.”
2. “Biological control. Natural predators often bring pests under control,
but they need time to work. Most bugs are good bugs: only about 5%
of the bugs in your yard are pests. “Good bugs” like ground beetles,
ladybugs, and lacewings help control pests. Do not spray at the first
sign of damage – nature may control it for you, or plants often just
outgrow the damage.
Other biological control measures are by pasturing and using
clean seeds for planting.”

3. “Use chemical pesticides as the last resort. If you use a


chemical pesticide, use the least toxic product, and spot apply it. Do
not spread it all over the yard to kill a few weeds or bugs. It may be
best to have a professional who has all the protective gear do the
application, but don’t use services that spread chemicals over the
whole yard or spray on a calendar schedule. You want to apply
pesticides only when and where you really have a problem. Follow
label instructions exactly – more is not better. Moreover, be sure to
keep children and pets out of application areas.”

If a pest or weed problem develops, use the least toxic solution as


follows:
 Physical controls like traps, barriers, fabric row covers, or repellants
may work for pests.
 Long handled weed pullers pop dandelions out easily.
 Mulching once a year reduces weeds in beds.
 Less toxic products like soaps, horticultural oils, and plant-based
insecticides that work for many problems are now available in the
market.
 Beneficial insects that prey on problem bugs are available for sale, or
you can attract these “good bugs” by planting a variety of plants that
provide pollen and nectar all year round.
Think twice before using pesticides

Pesticides (weed and bug killers) can damage soil and plant health,
poison wildlife like birds and salmon, and harm our family’s health. The good
news is that we really do not need those chemicals to grow a healthy and
attractive landscape. Try these natural methods.

Tips for selecting and using herbicides:

 “Be sure to read, understand, and follow all of the label directions when
mixing and applying herbicides.
 Make sure the label clearly states that the product can be used in the
manner you intend to use it.
 Remember, more is not better. Use the application rate on the label.
 Some herbicides are selective, and only kill certain types of plants,
while others are non-selective and kill almost any type of plant.
 Some herbicides kill weeds quickly, others can take up to a week or
more.
 Some herbicides persist in plants and soils for long periods, while
others only remain in plants or soil for a short time.
 Some herbicides have active ingredients that are more likely to move
through soils towards groundwater. Others are much less likely to
move through soils.” http://npic.orst.edu/pest/weeds.html

4. Cultural methods

a. “Replace problem plants with pest-resistant ones. If a plant,


even a tree, has insect pest or disease problems every year, it
is time to replace it with a more pest-resistant, site-adapted
variety or another type of plant that does not have these
problems.
b. Crop rotation is the planting of different crops in succession in
the same field.
c. Field sanitation. Sanitation from the perspective of weed
management refers to the practice of minimizing the movement
of weeds that are found on the farm to other parts of the farm.
The primary activities of sanitation involve keeping equipment
free of seed or other reproductive parts of weeds, and ensuring
that field boundaries and other non-crop areas are kept free of
weeds capable of reproducing. There is significant overlap
between the activities carried out in both prevention and
sanitation.”
http://www.seattle.gov/util/EnvironmentConservation/MyLawnGarden/PestWeedDise
aseControl/index.htm

5. Mechanical/Physical control. This method of weed control is done by


depriving the weeds of complete sunlight, cutting them, and burning
them. The practices involved are hand pulling, hoeing, cultivation,
mulching, and smothering.

Why should we control weeds?

According to Reyes (1977), we control weeds because:

 Weeds cause a decrease in crop production because they compete


for nutrients, moisture, light, and space.
 Weeds increase labor and production cost.
 Some weeds harbor plant pests, which may affect plant growth and
yield.
 Weeds clog irrigation and drainage canals or ditches thus hampering
the flow of water which results in overflow and waste of water
resources.
 Some weeds are injurious to man and animals.
 Weeds lower land value.
 Roots of weeds interlace with roots of plants which makes cultivation
and weeding difficult.
 Weeds cause the wear and tear of farm implements or equipment.

Principles of weed control

To control weeds successfully, understand thoroughly their


nature, life cycle, habit of growth, and their methods of natural
reproduction.

 It is necessary to know if a weed is terrestrial or aquatic.


 It is necessary to know whether weeds are resistant to drought or to
water
logging or easily affected by these conditions.
 It is important to know if its method of reproduction is by seeds, by
underground vegetative parts, or both.
Types of weeds

The different types of weeds are discussed by INGO (2005) and Calacala
(1977) as follows:

1. Grasses are monocotyledonous plants, which have long, narrow, two-


ranked, usually flat leaves with parallel veins and round, hollow stems.
The common examples of grasses are:
Examples of Grasses
1. Echinochloacrusgali (L. Beauv.)
Local names:
Philippines Dayakibok
Tagalog Dauadaua
Bicol Lagtom
Japan Inubie
2. Echinocloacolunum or colona
Local name:

Philippines Bulangtiribuhan
Tagalog Bulangtiribuhan
Ilocano Dalakayang, Dakayan
Thailand Thai-Yak Nok Sri Champu

II. Sedges. Sedges are similar to grasses but have three-ranked leaves and
triangular solid stems. They frequently have modified rhizomes for storage
and propagation.

Examples of sedges

1. Fimbristylislittoralis Gaud.
Local names:
Tagalog Ubod-ubod
Pangasinan Gumi
Ilocano Siraw-siraw

2. Cyperusiria Linn.
Local names:
Philippines Alinang, sud-sud
Japan Kogome-gayatsuri

III. Broadleaves. These are dicotyledonous plants with net-veined leaves


Examples of broad-leaf weeds

1. MonochariavaginalisPresl.
Local names:
Philippines Gabing-uwak
Tagalog Biga-bigaan
Ilocano Bil-lagut
Bicol Upiup

2. SphenocleazeylanicaGaertu.
Local names:
Philippines Dilangbutiki
Tagalog Silisilihan
Visaya Mais-mais

Cultivation

Cultivation is a tillage operation of loosening or breaking up the soil


about growing crops or plants in order to maintain the soil in a condition
favorable for the plants.

Benefits of cultivation:

1. Control the growth of weeds. Weeds are referred to as the chief plant
competitor. There is a saying that goes, “The best way to control
weeds is to remove the bitter roots,” and this is only accomplished
through cultivation.
2. Cultivation aerates the soil to facilitate the respiration of plant roots and
microorganisms as well as to supply nitrogen for nitrogen-fixing
organisms. During the rainy season, the soil lacks air because spaces
in between soil particles are filled with water. If you drain the soil, soil
air can circulate in between soil particles. Cultivation also creates more
spaces between soil particles to accommodate air.
3. Cultivation helps conserve food materials in the soil. It is generally
known, however, that when cultivation control weeds, moisture is
conserved because dead weeds have no more chance to use the soil
moisture as well as food nutrients in the soil.
4. Cultivation makes the top soil loose to increase its capacity to absorb
water.
There are two ways of cultivating the crops according to the
Training Manual in Horticulture prepared by the Maddela Institute of
Technology (2007). These are:

 Hilling-up.
Hilling-up usually refers to loosening or breaking the around the
growing plants either in rows or per hill. This is done by cultivating the
soil towards the base of the plant. The primary purpose is to cover the
applied fertilizer, cover the base of the plant, and to control the growth
of weeds.

 Off – barring. The soil is cultivated away from the growing plants.

Frequency of cultivation
The ideal way of taking care of an annual crop like vegetables is
to keep the field free from weeds and the soil in good tilth all the time
through cultivation. This is usually done in gardening and so, when a
field receives about the same amount of attention, we often say we
“garden” the field. By this, we simply mean we give the field a very
intensive care just as we generally do to a garden.

Usually, however, we cultivate as many times as we can to keep


the weeds down and prevent them from existing in abundance.

Depth of cultivation

As a rule, cultivation should be done at a depth of about 5


centimeters. It should be deep to control weeds. It is not advisable to
cultivate deeper than it is necessary to kill the weeds because the roots of
the cultivated plants may be injured. The depth varies according to crops.

Time of cultivation

Cultivation is done after planting and before the crops cover the
ground. Since cultivation is actually a process of working the soil, the rules
governing plowing with reference to the condition of the soil should apply to
cultivation.
Below is the timetable of when to hill-up the following vegetable crops
according to the Training Manual in Horticulture prepared by the Maddela
Institute of Technology (2007).

Table 10. Schedule of cultivation for selected vegetable crops

CROP WHEN TO CULTIVATE

Beans and peas 2-3 weeks after planting

Eggplant 2-3 weeks after planting

Pepper 2-3 weeks after planting

Lettuce 2-3 weeks after transplanting

Chinese cabbage 2-3 weeks after transplanting

Celery 2-3 weeks after transplanting

Carrots 30 days after transplanting

Cabbage 2-3 weeks after transplanting

Cauliflower and broccoli 25-30 days after transplanting

Tomato 2-3 weeks after transplanting

Tools/implements/equipment in cultivation

The tools, implement, and equipment used in cultivation depend


on the area to be cultivated. For vegetable gardens in school and in
the backyard, the simplest cultivating tools such as the hand trowels
and hand forks are commonly used. In their absence, the bolo can be
used as a general tool.
In the case of wider area, hoes, next in simplicity among implements
for cultivation, are specially adapted for use on land where animal drawn
cultivators cannot be used, and for cultivating spaces between plants in the
row that cannot be reached by other cultivators.

Cultivator
A cultivator is an implement used for cultivation and consists usually of
a frame to which shares are attached. Cultivators may be either propelled by
hand or drawn by work animals, tractor, or cable and are used in cultivating
wide vast of land.
 Hand cultivators are cultivators that are used with hand power.
 Animal drawn cultivators are preferred than hand machinery because
they are more economical to operate.
 Tractor cultivators are not used in the culture of annuals or crops which
require fairly close distancing since the tractors need a good deal of free
space for passage.

PROCESS

Activity 2

In your own vegetable gardens, perform weeding and cultivation


following the knowledge and skills you have learned from your lesson. Include
weeding and cultivation operations in your diary of activities, which you are
required to prepare.
REFLECT AND UNDERSTAND

Activity 3

Prepare a poster about weeds. Use a one-half size sheet of cartolina.


Then make a three-stanza poem about weeds too. Your poem will be written
on the poster.

TRANSFER

Activity 4

Write a short report of about 100 words. The report should include:

1. How have you practiced weeding and cultivation?

2. What are the disadvantages of using chemicals to control weeds?

3. How did you feel about the work you have done in your garden?
Quarter 4

LESSON: Produce Vegetables

Module 5: Maintaining the Growth of Vegetable Crops

Content Standard Performance Standard

The learner demonstrates The learner independently


understanding in controlling
controls insect pests and
insect pests and diseases.
diseases according to
manufacturers’ instructions.

Lesson 4 Controlling Insect Pests


and Diseases

Introduction

This lesson deals with the knowledge, skills, and attitudes in controlling
the occurrence of insect pests and diseases.

Learning Competencies/Objectives

1. Insects and their characteristics


3. Life cycle of an insect
4. Types of insects
5. Methods of controlling insect pests
6. Insect pests of vegetable crops
7. The disease triangle
8. Common causes of plant diseases
9. Common diseases of vegetable crops and their control
10. Safety precautions in the use of pesticides
Diagnostic/Pre-assessment

Direction: Read and understand the questions carefully and write the letter
of the correct answer in your test notebook.

A. Building blocks in insects. Identify the statements below and fill in


each block with a letter that corresponds with your answer. The number
of blocks determines the number of letters of the correct answer. Write
your answers in you test notebook.

3
4

6
7

9
10

1. The first letter of the beginning of an insects’ life.


2. Are all insects harmful?
3. The initial letter of the three body divisions of an insect.
4. The stage of an insect with complete metamorphosis when the insect is in
its resting stage.
5. The last stage of an insect’s life cycle.
6. The body division with 3 segments where the 3 pairs of legs can be found.
7. They are characterized by 3 body divisions, 3 pairs of legs, with or without
wings.
8. The specialized mouthpart of a chewing insect.
9. The specialized mouth part of a sucking insect characterized by a needle-
like structure or tube use to suck plant juices, nectar, and blood.
10. A hard protective covering of an insect body. Exclude the first letter.

B. Matching type. Match the items in Column A with the items in Column B.
Write the letter of your answer in your test notebook.
COLUMN A COLUMN B
1. Entomology a. building or placing of effective barriers
2. Quarantine to control spread of diseases
3. Pathogen b. the study of insects and their control
4. Sucking insects c. causal organisms of diseases
5. Chewing insects d. any abnormal condition that will affect
6. Metamorphosis the normal function of plant parts
7. Roguing e. the changes in the life of an insect
8. Disinfection f. the removal of a diseased infected
9. Protection plant
10. Disease g. the direct killing of the pathogen while
it is in its host or in the environment
of the host
h. group of insects that sucks plant juices
i. group of insects that eats parts of the
plant
j. separation and restriction of movement
of persons, animals, plants, etc.
intended to stop the spread of
infectious diseases
KNOW

Activity 1

1. Divide the class into two. One group will imitate the actions of an
insect. The other group will guess the action done by the first
group. If the guessing group guesses correctly the action, the
acting group will earn a point. Then the groups will exchange task.
The guessing group will do the acting and the acting group will
guess.
2. This time go to your garden and catch some of the insects you find
there. Get also some parts of the plants damaged by insects.
Describe the insects and describe the damage done to the plants.

Reading Resources and Instructional Activities

Control of insect pests and diseases

Insects and their characteristic

Pests in any form are the farmers’ enemy and they cause enormous
damage to their crops. Most often, pests spell the difference between high
and little or no harvest at all. The quantity and quality of harvests are impaired
through the production of smaller produce, a change in the taste and smell,
discoloration of the plant, and even the presence of insects in the plants. The
quantity and quality of production does not only depend on the skill of the
farmer, but also the farmer’s knowledge of how to control pests.
http://www.reachoutmichigan.org/funexperiments/agesubject lessons/insect.html
Concepts and facts about insects
Concepts:

 An insect is a very small animal with particular characteristics.


 Insects are invertebrates. They have no backbone.
 Most insects walk, but some can fly and jump.
 Insects need water, air, and food to live.

Facts:

 Most insects have five basic physical characteristics

• Insects possess an exoskeleton or a hard, shell-like covering on the


outside of its body.
• Insects have three main body parts: head, thorax, and abdomen.
• Insects have a pair of antennae on top of their heads.
• Insects have three pairs of legs. They use the legs for walking, but
sometimes an insect may have a pair of legs that are specially
designed for jumping.
• Insects have two pairs of wings.
• Some insects are helpful to people and some are not.

Parts of an insect as shown in the CBLM of Tech-Voc (2007)


The grasshopper and its parts

The head is the anterior of the three body regions of an adult insect. It
bears the eyes (usually a pair of compound eyes), the antennae, and
the mouthparts.

The thorax is the middle of the three body regions of an adult insect. It
is composed of 3 segments. It bears 3 pairs of legs (one on each
segment) and usually 2 pairs of wings. Some insects have only 1 pair
of wings.

The abdomen is the posterior of the three body regions of an adult


insect. It is composed of 11 segments. The abdomen bears the
external genitalia of the insect. In female insects, these consist of an
ovipositor.

The wings. Most adult insects have two pairs of wings, but some (for
example flies) have only 1 pair of wings. Usually the wings are
membranous but in some insects, they can be leathery or hard.
Sometimes the wings bear hairs or small scales.

The legs. Adult insects have six legs. Each of the segments of
the thorax bears 1 pair of legs. The legs are segmented. Often the last
segment of the leg bears a small claw. In some insects, the legs are
specially adapted for jumping.

The antennae. The head of most adult insects bears a pair of


antennae. Insects use the antennae to detect odors or they use them
as tactile (touch) organs. Antennae can vary in form and size.

The mouth. The mouthparts of adult insects can be of different types.


In many species, they are of the chewing type, as exemplified by
grasshoppers and beetles. Others have sucking mouthparts for
example shaped as stylets in aphids for example or shaped like a
coiled tongue in butterflies and moths. The different types of
mouthparts determine how the insect feeds.
http://bijlmakers.com/entomology/bodypart.htm

A proboscis is an elongated feeding tube attached to the head


of an animal. The most well-known example of a proboscis in insects is
the feeding tube used by adult butterflies and moths. The proboscis is
a tube made by the elongated maxillae of the butterfly; these are u-
shaped and held together with hooks to form a tube. It is used to suck
nectar of flowers and animal blood by the mosquitoes.

Proboscis may also be used to describe the elongated


mouthparts of flies and weevils etc.
http://www.amentsoc.org/insects/glossary/terms/proboscis Retrieved
November 17, 2014

How does an insect grow?

Knowledge on the life cycle of the insects is important in the


development of control measures that do not rely on applying
pesticides. Injury caused by insects is greatest at certain stages of
their development.
Bautista, et.al (1977) stated that most insects go through a
complete metamorphosis (change) consisting of four stages: egg, larva
(worm), pupa and finally the adult. It is during the larval stage that
these insects do the most damage, as this is when most feeding and
growth take place. Larvae of moths and butterflies are more commonly
known as caterpillars those of beetles as grubs, flies as maggots,
certain groups of moths as cutworms, and click beetles as wireworms.

On the other hand, some insects undergo incomplete


metamorphosis. The eggs hatch into nymphs, which resembles the
adult insects but lacking wings. The nymphs then undergo several
stages before becoming adults. They feed on the same food plants as
the parents. Most insects of this type are the sucking ones.

According to INGO (2005), an insect begins its life as an egg


and changes its appearance as it grows. This is the process of
metamorphosis.

A small number of insects give live birth to their young, but for
most insects, life starts inside the egg. Hard shells protect insects’
eggs, and although they are tiny and inconspicuous, they are often laid
in vast numbers. A female housefly for example may lay more than
1,000 eggs in a two-week period.
The Egg

Adult fly depositing egg Eggs of insects

The larval stage of an insect is the most destructive stage. Most


damage is done to crops at this stage. The larvae grow from almost
microscopic size when hatched. Larvae are ravenous eaters. When full size
has been attained, the larvae either spin a cocoon or build a shell around
them and go to a resting stage.

The Pupa

The pupa is the rest period of the


insect. The pupa develops into
adult.
The adult

A mature adult emerges from the


pupa. At this stage, the adult
insect will lay eggs again to
continue the cycle.

The Life Cycle of a Butterfly (Complete Metamorphosis)

In other insects, such as grasshoppers and aphids, the young insect (nymph) looks
like the parent when hatched. It sheds its exoskeleton several times, as it grows. INGO
(2005).
Ways how insects damage plants

Calacala (1977) stated that insects are classified as to how they damage the
crops and how these insects are controlled.

1. by chewing
Insects feed by chewing some portions of the plant like leaves, stems, flower,
and fruits. They have horn-like jaws, which they use for biting and chewing
grasshoppers, caterpillars, grubs, and
beetles are examples of these insects.
Cutworm

2. by sucking

Insects also nourish themselves by sucking plant


juices and nectar. These are characterized by
sharp, slender, hollow beaks, which they insert
under the surface of plants to suck their juices. This mouth part is called proboscis.
San Jose scales, aphids, plant lice, squash bugs, and other tree bugs are sucking
insects.

2. by lapping
mouth parts of these insectsenable them to
lap or lick liquids from outer surfaces of
objects on which they feed. Apple maggots
and cherry fruit flies are examples of lapping
insects.

Methods of controlling insects

Insects are enemies of farmers. According to Reyes (1977), there are several
methods of controlling insects. These are:

1. Applied Control. This is a measure to destroy insects. Agriculturists have


found the following methods to be effective.
Chemical Control – This refers to the destruction of insect pests through the
use of chemicals, such as pesticides and insecticides. This method is not
environmentally friendly in the sense that it may kill other beneficial insects
and possibly harm other living things like animals and men.

a. Insecticides. These substances kill insects by their chemical action.

1. Stomach poisons are spray, dust, or dips that kill the insect
when they are swallowed.

2. Contact poisons are spray, dust or dips that kill the insects
without being swallowed.

3. Fumigants are chemicals in the form of a gas to kill insects


and are usually applied in an enclosure of some kind.

b. Auxiliary, synergistic or supplemental substances are materials


added to spray or dusts which are not primarily toxicant but which
make the insecticide cover more economically; stick or adhere
better to plants; spread over foliage, fruits, or the bark, or the
bodies of the insects more quickly or completely; bring insecticidal
substances into solution or emulsions; mask distasteful or repellent
properties of insecticides; or activate the chemical action of the
toxicant.

Examples:

 Carriers such as water in a spray, talc in a dust, or bran in


poison bait
 Emulsifiers such as flours, calcium, and blood albumen
 Stickers such as lime, resin, and glue
 Spreaders like wetting agents and detergents
 Stabilizers such as caustic soda, glue, gelatin
c. Attractants or attrahents. These are substances used in poison
baits, spray, or dust to induce the insects to eat the poisoned
materials or to lure insects into traps.

d. Repellants are substances that keep insects away from crops and
animals because of their offensive appearance, odor, or taste.

II. Mechanical and Physical Control. These special operations kill


insects by physical and mechanical action. Mechanical measures refer
to the operation of machinery or application of manual operations. This
is done through the following ways:

a. manipulation of water or humidity by draining, dehydrating or


flooding the breeding media

b. manipulation of temperature like burning

c. use of electric shock

d. use of light and other radiant energy

e. use of sound waves.

III. Cultural Control or Use of Farm Practices. Regular farm operations


are performed to destroy insects or prevent their injuries.

a. Rotating crops
b. Tilling of the soil
c. Varying the time or method of planting or harvesting
d. Destroying crop residues, weeds, volunteer plants, and trash
e. Using resistant varieties
f. Pruning, thinning
g. Fertilizing and stimulating vigorous growth
IV. Biological Control. This is the introduction, encouragement, and
artificial increase of predaceous and parasitic insects.
a. Protection and encouragement of insectivorous birds and other
animals
b. The use of growing plants to destroy, repel or prevent damage by
insects
V. Legal Control. This is the eradication of insects by controlling human
activities.

Inspection and quarantine laws prevent the introduction of new


pests from foreign countries or their spread within a country.
Isolation and quarantine are government policies to protect the
public, plants, and animals by preventing exposure to infected or
potentially infected persons, plants, and animals.

In general, isolation refers to the separation of persons, plants,


animals, and the like who have a specific infectious illness from
those who are healthy and the restriction of their movement to stop
the spread of that illness.

Quarantine, in contrast, generally refers to the separation and


restriction of movement of persons, plants, animals, etc who, while
not yet ill, have been exposed to an infectious agent and therefore
may become infectious. Quarantine of exposed persons is a public
health strategy, like isolation, that is intended to stop the spread of
infectious disease.

Both isolation and quarantine may be conducted on a voluntary


basis or compelled on a mandatory basis through legal authority.

Introduction of laws enforce the application of control measures


such as spraying, the cleaning up of crop residues, fumigation, and
eradication.

Insecticide laws govern the manufacture and sale of the


insecticides and prevent the adulteration and misbranding of
insecticides.
Poison residue laws fix the tolerance of various insecticides
upon food products offered for sale or transportation.

VI. Natural Control. Not all of the control measures that destroy or
check insects do not depend upon man for their continuance or
success. Some cannot even be influenced by man. These
include:
1. Climatic factors such as rainfall, sunshine, cold, heat, and wind.

2. Topography factors such as rivers, lakes, mountains, type of


soil, other characteristics of the country that serve as barriers.

3. Predators and parasites including insects, birds, reptiles,


mammals.

Diseases of Vegetable Crops

Pictures showing signs/symptoms of diseases of vegetable crops

Bacterial wilt of melon – wilting Downy mildew of melon – leaf Downy mildew of luffa – leaf
plant symptoms symptoms
Fusarium wilt of cucumber – Cottony leak of cucumber – decaying Bacterial soft rot of cabbage
yellowing and wilting plants fruit and fungal mycelium of core and internal head
tissue

Xanthomonas leaf spot of Chinese Bacterial soft rot – collapsing Bacterial wilt – vascular
Cabbage fruit in the field discoloration in lower stem
and roots

Cercospora leaf spot (Frogeye) – Pepper mild mottle (PMMV) – Powdery mildew (Leveillula) -
gray-brown circular lesions with mild mosaic in leaves leaf yellowing and necrosis evident
light colored center the upper surface of leaves

Tomato mosaic (TOMV) – mild Gray wall (physiological) – gray


mosaic in leaves to brown sunken areas on the
fruit surface and brown internal
tissue on the fruit walls
Safety precautions in the use of pesticides (The-Voc CBLM)

Practically all of the pesticides commercially available are toxic to man


and animals. The people most likely to encounter these hazards are the
operators and applicators.

Pesticides enter the body in three ways: 1) by ingestion or swallowing;


2) by breathing the dusts or vapors; and 3) by absorption through the skin.
One form can prove just as fatal as the other, but most cases of poisoning
occur through taking in accidentally. Unfortunately, children are the most
frequent victims of such negligence by the adults. Because of this, all
materials should be kept in their original containers and locked up or placed
out of the reach of children.

A. Before application
1. Read the label
 Determine the target organism.
 Identify the rate and time of application.
 Wear personal protective equipment (PPE).
 Remember the antidotes and other safety measures.
 Observe field re-entry intervals after treatment.
2. Check the sprayer
 Fill the tank with plain water and test the sprayer to be used that
there are no leaks or loose connections and the equipment is
working properly.
 Repair or replace any worn-out or faulty part.
3. Mixing and filling
 Extra precaution is necessary when mixing and filling sprayers
because pesticides are concentrated.
 Wear personal protective equipment.
 Open pesticide container carefully to avoid splashes, spills, or
drifts.
 Keep your head away from the opening of the sprayer.
 Wash and change clothes immediately if pesticide is spilled on
clothing.
 Do not use bare hands in mixing pesticides, nor allow concentrated
materials to touch bare skin.
B. During application
1. Wear personal protective equipment.
2. Do not eat, drink, smoke, or blow clogged nozzles with your mouth
while applying pesticides.
3. Do not spray when it is windy to avoid pesticide drift.
4. Spray areas near homes in early mornings or evenings when humans,
pets and livestock are less likely to be exposed.
C. After application
1. Store remaining pesticides properly.
2. Bathe and change clothing after application of pesticides.
3. Stay away from treated field one to two days. This prevents poisoning
through contact with treated plants, or inhalation of pesticide fumes.

PROCESS

Activity 2

Learn about the pesticides used in vegetable gardening and


other plants that we eat. How harmful are these chemicals to people?
Does rinsing fruit and vegetables with plain water remove the
pesticides and make them safe for us to eat. Enumerate some
government laws/ policies/ regulations pertaining to pesticide use?

REFLECT AND UNDERSTAND

Activity 3

A. Make a reaction with 100 words about the picture below showing a one-
year old boy chewing a fresh bitter gourd fruit from the garden.

Courtesy: Jones Rural School, Jones, Isabela

i. This activity will give you more information about the


lesson you have just studied.

Ten Principles of Plant Pathology by John A. Menge and Elinor Pond,


Department of Plant Pathology, University of California, Riverside

Plant Pathology is the study of plant diseases including:1)


causes, 2) mechanisms by which diseases occur, 3) interactions
between plants and disease-causing agents, and 4) controlling
diseases. There are a large number of guiding principles in Plant
Pathology, which are often difficult to formulate because biology has so
few absolutes. Here are 10 principles, which may aid in understanding,
diagnosing and controlling diseases of plants.

Principle I - Disease is a malfunctioning of a plant, which results from a


continuous irritant by a pathogenic agent.

This definition of plant disease includes organismal causal


agents, which attack plants such as fungi, bacteria, mycoplasma,
viruses, nematodes and parasitic plants.

Principle II - Disease results from an interaction of the virulence of the


pathogen, susceptibility of the host, and the conduciveness of the
environment.

Most people overlook the concept that plant disease is not


caused by a single organism or disease agent. Plant disease is instead
caused by a combination of three factors: 1) a pathogen, 2)
environmental conditions, and 3) host response. This concept is
visualized by the “disease triangle” in which the three factors,
pathogen, environment and host make up the three sides of a triangle.
The disease triangle shows visually that a very weak and inefficient
pathogen could cause substantial disease if the environment is
conducive or if the host is extremely susceptible.

Principle III - Conditions, which favor plant growth and health


commonly, favor disease.

One of the most common misconceptions among horticulturists


and the public is that healthy plants are somehow more resistant to
plant disease and so abundant water and fertilizer are often treated as
pesticides to insure plant health. While this may be true for weak or
opportunistic plant pathogens it is not true for most competent
pathogens. For example, high levels of nitrogen fertilizers, which result
in rapid growth of plants, are often prescribed to improve plant health.
Not only does this commonly result in ammonia toxicity, but high levels
of nitrogen are known to exacerbate disease by many pathogens such
as Rhizoctonia, Pythium, Phytophthora, Fusarium, Armillaria,
Sclerotium, Pseudomonas, Corynebacterium,powdery mildews, rusts,
cyst nematodes and many others.

Principle IV - Overwatering and under watering plants both exacerbate


disease.

Perhaps the most common plant problems, for most home


owners and for ornamental plants in general, results from improper
watering. Plants damaged by growing in water saturated soil can often
be diagnosed by the foul hydrogen cyanide odor of the soil. Plants,
which are chronically drought stressed usually, have leaves, which
have brown necrotic tips or edges. However, most people are not
aware that overwatering or under watering can predispose plants to
disease. Predisposition is the environmental modification of plant
resistance making the plant more susceptible to disease

Principle V - The realistic way to manage plant disease is through an


integrated management strategy that includes: 1) cultural
practices, 2) epidemiology, 3) resistant varieties, 4) chemical
pesticides, and 5) biological control.

Plant diseases are often extremely difficult to control and require


a flexible approach that utilizes all of the tools available to us. In most
situations, utilizing several methods to control disease is more practical
and efficient than relying on a single method. An example of cultural
control is mulching which will often reduce root rot caused
by Phytophthora. Epidemiology is the study of factors affecting the
outbreak and spread of infectious disease. Familiarity with the
epidemiology of a pathogen will show how factors such as
temperature, rainfall, wind, and leaf wetness affect its ability to produce
spores, spread and infect its host. Knowledge of epidemiology will
often lead to the formulation of “models” which forecast or predict
disease. Simple models such as rainfall for longer than 24 hours when
the temperature is above 240C requires a fungicide spray are often the
best and most useful means of both controlling a disease and reducing
the amount of fungicide applied. Resistant varieties are often the
ultimate way to control disease. However, the resistance may break
down and for many ornamental plants, resistance is simply not
available. Chemical pesticides are often the only effective way to
control disease. New IPM (Integrated Pest Management) guidelines
stress using only enough pesticide to control the disease and to
constantly look for ways to reduce pesticide applications. Biological
control of plant pathogens is not as advanced as it is in insect control.
While there are substantial numbers of biological control agents on the
market, most are not very effective for control of diseases in the field.

Principle VI - A major approach to disease control is inoculum


reduction.

Inoculum is the pathogen or its parts, which can cause plant


infection. Reduction of inoculum is a two-pronged approach, which
includes inhibiting the pathogen and reducing its spread. Inoculum can
be fungal spores or survival structures, bacteria, or virus particles, but
it can also be a plant debris, infested soil, infected roots, diseased
parts of perennial plants, insect vectors or infected fruit or vegetative
organs. Inoculum must be reduced or eliminated to control disease.
Inoculum can be moved by wind, wind-blown rain, water, insects,
seeds, infected transplants, animals, humans, equipment, and pruning
tools. Care to prevent movement of inoculum to the plant will
effectively reduce the inoculum and control disease.

Principle VII - Wood decay organisms result in wind damage and


breakage in trees.

While this principle seems self-evident, it is amazing how many


homeowners are more interested in saving their tree than in the
potential danger to their house, car or their own person. Wood decay
organisms often damage only the dead, central heartwood portion of
the tree causing the tree to be hollow. The tree shows very little
outward signs of the damage since one or two outer rings of the trunk
can conduct all the water and nutrients to sustain the tree. Fruiting
bodies of the wood decay fungi, which resemble brackets or shelves,
are signs that the tree may in danger of breaking and falling over.

Principle VIII - Epidemics of introduced (invasive) species are more


severe than epidemics of endemic species.

Notices in airports and borders plead with visitors not to bring in


plant material, which may harbor new diseases. However, despite our
best efforts new diseases are introduced and because our plants have
little resistance to introduced species and there are no competitors or
predators to keep their numbers low, an epidemic occurs which is very
difficult to control.
Principle IX - Quarantine is often the best method for combating
disease.

This principle is really a corollary of Principle VIII, and is I am


afraid being ignored today in this atmosphere of free trade.

Principle X - Do no harm.

This is really the first rule of plant pathology. Certainly, our state
and federal governments are ignoring this rule when they downgrade
our quarantine system. However, this rule is really aimed at the farmer
or homeowner who tries to control disease without really
understanding plant pathology. Diseases are commonly caused by
overwatering and over fertilization by well meaning gardeners. Plant
pathologists term efforts to control disease that result in worse disease
as boomerang effects. A classic example of the boomerang effect
occurs if a soil-borne pathogen reinvades fumigated soil. Without
natural enemies to reduce its spread, it often becomes far worse than it
would have been before fumigation. Disease trading is another term
that results when one disease is controlled but another is caused by
the same treatment.

TRANSFER

Activity 4

Learn more about organic gardening. Talk with someone who


raises vegetables organically. What are involved? What are the
problems in producing organic vegetables? Are these foods safe to
eat? Why do they cost more than that of the non-organic foods?
Now, you already know how to produce vegetables that are safe
to eat. Collect from your neighborhood ten (10) empty containers of
mineral water of one-gallon capacity and convert them into plant pots
for your vegetables to grow at home. Practice organic vegetable
growing.

Summary/Feedback

Bio-fertilizers are microbial inoculants or groups of


microorganisms, which in one or another make nutrients available from
sources which those plants, cannot tap themselves. The nitrogen bio-
fertilizers include Rhizobium (for legumes), the blue-green algae
(BGA), Azospirillium, Azotabacter, and Frankia ( for non-legumenous
trees). The P bio-fertilizers are made up of bacteria and fungi that
solubilize unavailable forms of phosphorus, thus converting them into
available forms. Efficient phosphor-bacterial isolates have been
identified as Pseudomonas striata, P. rattonis and Bacillus polymyra.
Among the fungi, the efficient P solubilizers have been observed
among the Aspergillus and Penecillium groups. The mycorrhizae
constitute another group of bio-fertilizers in that they increase the
absorption of P from the soil and P-fertilizers.
Summative assessment

Direction: Read and understand the questions carefully and write the letter
of the correct answer in your test notebook.

Building blocks in insects. Identify the statements below and fill in each
block with a letter that corresponds with your answer. The number of blocks
determines the number of letters of the correct answer. Again, write your
answer in you test notebook.

3
4

6
7

9
10

1. The first letter of the beginning of an insects’ life.


2. Are all insects harmful?
3. The initial letter of the 3 body divisions of an insect.
4. That stage of an insect when they are in their cocoon.
5. The last stage of an insect’s life.
6. The body division with 3 segments where the 3 pairs of legs are found.
7. They are characterized with 3 body divisions, 3 pairs of legs, with or
without wings.
8. The specialized mouthpart of a chewing insect.
9. A needle like structure to suck plant juices, nectar and blood.
10. The protective covering of an insect body, which is hard. Exclude the first
letter.

B. Matching type. Match column A to column B. Write the letter of your


answer in your test notebook.

COLUMN A COLUMN B

1. Entomology a. building or placing effective barriers to


2. Insect control control the spread of diseases
3. Pathogen b. the study of insects and their causal
Organisms of diseases
4. Sucking
insects c. any abnormal condition that will affect the
5. Biting insects or chewing normal function of plant parts
insects d. the changes in the life cycle of an insect
6. Metamorphosis e. the removal of a diseased plant
7. Roguing f. the direct killing of the pathogen while it is
8. Disinfection on its host or in the environment of the host
9. Protection g. group of insects that sucks plant juices
10. Disease h.group of insects that eat parts of the plant

i. a small invertebrate animal having three

body divisions, three pairs of legs, and

usually with wings


Quarter 3

LESSON: Produce Vegetables

Module 5: Maintaining the Growth of Vegetable Crops

Content Standard Performance Standard

The learner demonstrates The learner independently


understanding in mulching.
practice mulching according to
approved practices..

Lesson 5 Performing Mulching

Introduction

This lesson deals with the knowledge, skills, and attitudes in mulching.

Learning Competencies/Objectives

1. Importance of mulching
2. Kinds of mulch materials
3. Procedures in placing mulch materials

Pre – assessment

True or False. Write true if the statement is correct and false if it is wrong.
1. Organic mulches enrich the soil as they decay and
provide a better environment for plant growth.
2. Placing mulch over the garden plots conserve soil
moisture, control the growth of weeds and increase soil
erosion.
3. Mulching reduces the work of cultivation around the
growing plants, thus, decreases the labor and cost of
weeding.
4. Compost is the best mulching material for home and
school gardens.
5. Quality harvests are obtained when the soil is covered
with mulch materials.

KNOW

Activity 1

Have you ever seen garden plots covered with plastic? What do
you they are? Have you also seen garden plots covered with dried leaves,
sawdust, or rice hull? What is the gardener’s purpose of placing them there?

Reading Resources and


Instructional Activities
Perform mulching
Students of the Jones Rural School help in placing plastic mulch in the Municipal Vegetable gardens
of Jones, Isabela

According INGO (2005) mulch is any material or substance


spread on the ground to protect plant roots from heat, cold or drought or
to keep fruit clean.

Mulches can be classified as inorganic or organic. Inorganic


mulches include plastics and other non-plant materials; whereas, organic
mulches include straw, compost, sawdust and similar materials. Plastic
is the only inorganic mulch used in vegetable garden.

According to INGO (2005), the following are the importance of


mulching in vegetable production:
2. Mulching the area will prevent erosion. A thin layer of mulch on the soil
surface specially sloping areas reduces the washing away of soil
particles by flowing water.
3. It conserves water. Therefore, mulching is most important when it is
impossible to adequately irrigate newly seeded areas.
4. Proper mulching in summer months keeps the soil cooler. Soils covered
with organic mulches keep soil below the mulch layer cooler in summer.
5. Organic mulches enrich the soil as they decay and provide a better
environment for plant growth. Soils that have high organic matter are
easier to till and better suited to vegetable gardening.
6. Mulches help plants by gradually increasing soil fertility. Organic
mulches when turned under and decomposed build the soil’s organic
matter content.
7. Most mulch also provides excellent weed control. Mulches do not
prevent weed seeds to germinate. However, weed seedlings are
blocked by mulch thick enough to exclude light.
Sangalan and Sangalan (2000) reported other importance of
mulching as follows:

8. Promotion of bacterial life. It has been shown a mulch layer promotes


the micro life of the soil particularly in the upper layer.
9. A better uptake of nutrients, particularly potash. The reasons are:
a. a. The potash content of the mulch layer. The potash in the plant straw
occurs in readily available form and easily moves with the
rainwater into the root zone.
b. Soils under the mulch layer remains more wet, thus checking
potash fixation.
c. The potash from fertilizer application remains more
available for the plants, owing to the more favorable moisture
condition of the upper layer of the soil.
d. The feeding roots of the plants under a mulch layer grows
into the most superficial soil layer where, especially in clay soils
the greater part of the fertilizer potash is absorbed.

10. Mulching reduces the work of cultivation around the growing plants,
thus, cuts the labor of weeding to almost nothing.

Mulching materials
Many materials can be used as mulching materials. The
following mulching materials discussed below are good examples:
1. Compost is generally the best mulching material
for home and school gardens. It is usually free of
weed seeds and is inexpensive. They are just
present in the backyard. Apply at least 10 cm thick
as mulch layer.
2. Straw is short lived and coarse textured. More straw is needed for
the same effect as compost or lawn clippings. Place at least 7-8 cm
thick of this material for better effect.
3. Sawdust is a common mulching material that can be easily
collected. If well manage, it can be good mulch. It can result in a
temporary, but sharp, decrease in soil nitrogen. Add a small amount of
garden fertilizer to the soil after applying sawdust directly to a garden.
Even better, add nitrogen to sawdust, and then compost it before
spreading it on your garden.
4. Plastic is effective mulch if used properly. Use black plastic in the
summer to warm the soil. Black plastic keeps light from the soil and
prevents weeds from growing. Clear plastic warms the soil, but weeds
can grow beneath the plastic. Plastic mulches can be used not only
once, but, the disadvantage is plastic mulch cannot be turned under
the soil at the end of the season.

4. Quality harvests are obtained when the soil is covered with mulch
materials. Mulches prevent the direct contact of garden fruits with
the soil keeping them clean and other damages.

Selection of mulching materials


The following should be considered in selecting mulch materials.

1. Cost of the material. Do not spend money on mulching material


when there are suitable and readily available materials in your
locality.
2. The crop you plan to mulch. Never use material from the crop that
is to be protected. Example, do not use potato vines from spring
crop to mulch fall potatoes because the possibility of the disease is
increased.
3. When the mulch is to be used. Select light-colored mulch during
the summer to reflect heat. Use dark-colored mulch in early rainy
season to help warm the soil and to permit earlier planting and
hasten early growth.

PROCESS

Activity 2

There are several sources of organic materials such as sawdust, rice


hull, and dried leaves to be used as mulching materials. Gather some and
place them in your garden.

REFLECT AND UNDERSTAND

Activity 3

Do some researches about mulching. The following questions will


guide you in your research work.

1. What plants need mulching materials?


2. When is the best time to place mulching materials?
3. If you use organic mulches, how thick the mulching materials would
be?
TRANSFER

Activity 4

Conduct a simple research about mulching. In your gardens planted


with eggplant, place-mulching materials in one garden and the other garden
do not place mulch. Observe the following in your experimental plots:

1. The growth of you plants


2. The growth of weeds
3. Quality of fruits

Summary/Feedback

Mulching could be done organically or inorganically. Organic mulching


is much better than inorganic mulching because when the organic mulches
decompose help enriching the soil. Organic mulches are readily available
and are inexpensive. On the other hand, plastic mulch can be used several
times and easy to apply not like that of the organic.

Mulching conserves soil moisture, decreases soil erosion, controls the


growth of weeds and decreases labor cost.
Summative assessment

Direction: True or False. Write true if the statement is correct and false if it is
wrong.
1. Organic mulches enrich the soil as they decay and
provide a better environment for plant growth.
2. Placing mulch over the garden plots conserve soil
moisture, control the growth of weeds and
increase soil erosion.
4. Mulching reduces the work of cultivation around the
growing plants, thus, decreases the labor and cost of
weeding.
5. Compost is the best mulching material for home and
school gardens.
6. Quality harvests are obtained when the soil is covered
with mulch materials.

GLOSSARY

 Cultivation - the stirring of the soil around and


between crop plants while they are growing.
 Drip irrigation – application of water through small
tubes and orifices or emitters, which discharge small
quantity of water to the base of the plant.
 Fertilizer grade – the minimum guaranty of plant food
content of a fertilizer mixture or material expressed in
terms of a total nitrogen, available phosphoric acid,
and water-soluble potash.
 Fixation – the process by which available plant
nutrients are rendered unavailable or “fixed” in the
soil. Generally refers to the process by which
potassium, phosphorus, and ammonia are rendered
unavailable in the soil. In addition, the process by
which free nitrogen is chemically combines either in
nature or synthetically.
 Foliar fertilizer – fertilizer formulation containing
nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium plus selected
micronutrient element such as Ca, Mg, Mn, Fe, Zn,
Cl, B, Cu, and S) applied by spraying on the foliage.
 Fumigant – a chemical compound, which acts in the
gaseous state to destroy insects and their larvae.
 Furrow irrigation – a method of supplying water
through a canal system wherein water flows down or
across the slope of the field.
 HACCP – Hazard Analysis Critical Control Point
 Hygroscopic – a term used to describe materials that
absorb moisture from the soil.
 Leaching – the process of removal of soluble salts
from soil by the passage of water through the soil.
This is a primary step in the improvement of saline
soils.
 Manure – the excreta of animals-dung and urine, with
straw or other material used as the absorbent.
 Nitrogen – a colorless, inert gas that makes up about
four-fifths of the air. Nitrogen for commercial purposes
can be “fixed” synthetically from the air by several
processes.
 Organic soil – a general term used to refer to soils
high in organic matter.
 pH – a term used to indicate the degree of acidity or
alkalinity of the soil.. A material that has a pH of 7.0 is
neutral. Values above 7.0 denote alkalinity, and below
7.0 denote acidity.
 Plant disease – a harmful alteration of a plant, its
organs or parts.
 Rodents – refer to rats and mice, which destroy
grains and other crops or stored products.
 Rouging - the removal of disease infected plants and
off types
 Sprinkler irrigation – a mechanical method of
supplying water over the standing crop by means of
nozzle, which is rotated by water pressure.
 TLC – Tender Loving Care
 Translocation - transfer of organic and inorganic
solutes and water with in the plant tissues.
 Transpiration - the loss of water through the stomata
of the leaves.
 Transplants – vegetable seedlings produced for
transplanting.
 Weeding - the process of removing or controlling the
growth of weeds.
 Weeds – are plants either wild or cultivated in living in
a place where they are not wanted. It also a plant
having no economic vale which intrudes in cultivated
fields, competes with crop plants, and tends to persist
inspite of man’s effort at eradication.

References

Anonymous. 2007. Training Manual in Horticulture NC II. Maddela Institute of


Technology, Dipintin, Maddela, Quirino.

Bautista, O.K. and T.G. Cadiz. 1977. Post-harvest Handling of Vegetrables.


In: Vegetable Production, …..

Calacala, Camilo N. 1977. Brochure in Agronomy 11. Nueva Vizcaya State


Institute of Technology, Bayombong, Nueva Vizcaya

Caoili, A.A. and M.R. De Vera. 1977. Water Management for Vegetable Crop
Production. In: Vegetable Production.

Garcia, L.B., P.C. de Castro, R.G. Asuncion, Jr., A.J. Gamiron, E.B. Javier,
E.D. Serrano, A.B. Resureccion, and S.A. Yano. 1991 Safety
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the Philippines, Diliman, Quezon City, Philippines. 390 pp.

Mcvickar, Malcolm H. 1970.Using Com.mercial Fertilizers:Third Edition, The


Interstate Printers and Publishers, Inc. Danville, Illinois

Nitural, P. S. Undated. Fertilizer Management in Vegetable Production.


Lecture Note in Horticulture 200 – Vegetable Production. Colege of
Agriculture, Central Luzon State University, Science City, Munoz,
Nueva Ecija, Philippines.

INGO (2005) Resource Manual on Integrated Production and Pest


Management (IPPM) in Vegetables. World Education (INGO)
Philippines, Inc. 2999 National Road, Amos, Los Banos, Laguna,
Philippines.
Paller, E.C. and J.M. Soriano. 1977. Weed Control in Vegetable Fields. In:
Vegetable Production, University of the Philippines at Los Banos,
College of Agriculture, College, Laguna, Philippines.

Reyes, P.L. 1977. Insects and their Control. Lecture Note in Agronomy 22-
Field Crop Production. Institute of Agriculture, Araneta University
Foundation.

Sangatan, P. D. and R.L. Sangatan (2000), Practical Guide to Organic


Gardening,Busybook Distributors, Quezon City.Philippine .

Villegas, L.M. and M.M. Malixi. 1977. Principles of Fertilizer Use. In:
Vegetable Production,…..

http://www.agritech.tnau.ac.in/agriculture/agri_nutrientmgt_methodsoffertilizer
appln.html
eartheasy.com/grow-compost.htm

http://www.compostjunkie.com/composting-techniques.html

http://people.oregonstate.edu/~muirp/sustfert.htm

http://www.extension.iastate.edu/CropNews/2008/0604MAlKaisiMHelmers.ht
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