Battery Basics

HOW DO LEAD ACID BATTERIES WORK?

Lead Acid batteries have changed little since the 1880's although improvements in materials and
manufacturing methods continue to bring improvements in energy density, life and reliability. All lead acid
batteries consist of flat lead plates immersed in a pool of electrolyte. Regular water addition is required for
most types of lead acid batteries although low-maintenance types come with excess electrolyte calculated to
compensate for water loss during a normal lifetime.

BATTERY CONSTRUCTION
Lead acid batteries used in the RV and Marine Industries usually consist of two 6-volt batteries in series, or a
single 12-volt battery. These batteries are constructed of several single cells connected in series each cell
produces approximately 2.1 volts. A six-volt battery has three single cells, which when fully charged produce
an output voltage of 6.3 volts. A twelve-volt battery has six single cells in series producing a fully charged
output voltage of 12.6 volts.

A battery cell consists of two lead plates a positive plate covered with a paste of lead dioxide and a negative
made of sponge lead, with an insulating material (separator) in between. The plates are enclosed in a plastic
battery case and then submersed in an electrolyte consisting of water and sulfuric acid (see figure # 1). Each
cell is capable of storing 2.1 volts.

In order for lead acid cell to produce a voltage, it must first receive a (forming) charge voltage of at least 2.1-
volts/cell from a charger. Lead acid batteries do not generate voltage on their own; they only store a charge
from another source. This is the reason lead acid batteries are called storage batteries, because they only
store a charge. The size of the battery plates and amount of electrolyte determines the amount of charge lead
acid batteries can store. The size of this storage capacity is described as the amp hour (AH) rating of a battery.
A typical 12-volt battery used in a RV or marine craft has a rating 125 AH, which means it can supply 10 amps
of current for 12.5 hours or 20-amps of current for a period of 6.25 hours. Lead acid batteries can be
connected in parallel to increase the total AH capacity.

In figure # 2 below, six single 2.1-volt cells have been connected in series to make the typical 12-volt battery,
which when fully charged will produce a total voltage of 12.6-volts.

LEAD ACID BATTERY DISCHARGE CYCLE

In figure # 3, above a fully charged battery is connected to a load (light bulb) and the chemical reaction
between sulfuric acid and the lead plates produces the electricity to light the bulb. This chemical reaction also
begins to coat both positive and negative plates with a substance called lead sulfate also known as sulfation
(shown as a yellow build-up on plates). This build-up of lead sulfate is normal during a discharge cycle. As the
battery continues to discharge, lead sulfate coats more and more of the plates and battery voltage begins to
decrease from fully charged state of 12.6-volts (figure # 4).

In figure # 5 the battery is now fully discharged, the plates are almost completely covered with lead sulfate
(sulfation) and voltage has dropped to 10.5-volts.

NOTE:
Discharging a lead acid battery below 10.5 volts will severely damage it!

Lead sulfate (sulfation) now coats most of the battery plates. Lead sulfate is a soft material, which can is
reconverted back into lead and sulfuric acid, provided the discharged battery is immediately connected to a
battery charger. If a lead acid battery is not immediately recharged, the lead sulfate will begin to form hard
crystals, which can not be reconverted by a standard fixed voltage (13.6 volts) battery converter/charger.

NOTE:

Always recharge your RV or Marine battery as soon as possible to prevent loss of battery capacity due to the
build-up of hard lead sulfate crystals!

LEAD ACID BATTERY RECHARGE CYCLE

The most important thing to understand about recharging lead acid batteries is that a converter/charger with a
single fixed output voltage will not properly recharge or maintain your battery. Proper recharging and
maintenance requires an intelligent charging system that can vary the charging voltage based on the state of
charge and use of your RV or Marine battery. Progressive Dynamics has developed intelligent charging
systems that solve battery problems and reduce battery maintenance.

The discharged battery shown in figure # 6 on the next page is connected to a converter/charger with its output
voltage set at 13.6-volts. In order to recharge a 12-volt lead acid battery with a fully charged terminal voltage of
12.6-volts, the charger voltage must be set at a higher voltage. Most converter/chargers on the market are set
at approximately 13.6-volts. During the battery recharge cycle lead sulfate (sulfation) begins to reconvert to
lead and sulfuric acid.

During the recharging process as electricity flows through the water portion of the electrolyte and water, (H2O)
is converted into its original elements, hydrogen and oxygen. These gasses are very flammable and the reason
your RV or Marine batteries must be vented outside. Gassing causes water loss and therefore lead acid
batteries need to have water added periodically. Sealed lead acid batteries contain most of these gasses
allowing them to recombine into the electrolyte. If the battery is overcharged pressure from these gasses will
cause relief caps to open and vent, resulting in some water loss. Most sealed batteries have extra electrolyte
added during the manufacturing process to compensate for some water loss.

The battery shown in figure # 7 above has been fully recharged using a fixed charging voltage of 13.6-volts.
Notice that some lead sulfate (sulfation) still remains on the plates. This build-up will continue after each
recharging cycle and gradually the battery will begin to loose capacity to store a full charge and eventually
must be replaced. Lead sulfate build up is reduced if battery is given an Equalizing Charge once every 10
discharge cycles or at least once a month. An Equalizing Charge increases charging voltage to 14.4 volts or
higher for a short period. This higher voltage causes gassing that equalizes (re-mixes) the electrolyte solution.

Since most RV and Marine craft owners seldom remember to perform this function, Progressive Dynamics has
developed the microprocessor controlled Charge Wizard. The Charge Wizard will automatically provide an
Equalizing Charge every 21 hours for a period of 15 minutes, when the battery is fully charged and not in use.
Our 2000 Series of Marine Battery Chargers have the Charge Wizard feature built-in.

One disadvantage of recharging a lead acid battery at a fixed voltage of 13.6-volts is the recharge time is very
long. A typical 125-AH RV or Marine battery will take approximately 80 hours to recharge at 13.6 volts.
Increasing the charge voltage to 14.4-volts will reduce battery recharge time for a 125-AH battery to 3-4 hours.
Once a battery reaches 90% of full charge, the voltage must be reduced from 14.4-volts to 13.6-volts to
reduce gassing and water loss. The optional Charge Wizard automatically senses when a battery has a very
low state of charge and automatically selects its BOOST MODE of operation. BOOST MODE increases the
voltage of a PD9100 Series converter/charger to 14.4 volts. When the battery reaches the 90% charge level,
the Charge Wizard automatically reduces the charge voltage down to 13.6 volts to complete the charge.
Again, this is a standard feature on our Marine Chargers.

Another disadvantage of recharging a lead acid battery at a fixed voltage of 13.6-volts is that once it is fully
charged, 13.6 volts will cause considerable gassing and water loss. To prevent this from occurring the charging
voltage must be reduced to 13.2-volts. The Charge Wizard will automatically select its STORAGE MODE of
operation (13.2-volts) once the battery reaches full charge and remains unused for a period of 30 hours. This
feature is standard on all of Progressive Dynamics Marine Battery Chargers.

At a charging voltage of 13.2 volts, the converter/charger will maintain a full charge, reduce gassing and water
loss. However, this lower voltage does not provide enough gassing to prevent a battery condition called
Battery Stratification. Battery Stratification is caused by the fact that the electrolyte in the battery is a
mixture of water and acid and, like all mixtures, one component, the acid, is heavier than water. Therefore, acid
will begin to settle and concentrate at the bottom of the battery (see figure #8).

This higher concentration of acid at the bottom of the battery causes additional build-up of lead sulfate
(sulfation), which reduces battery storage capacity and battery life. In order to prevent Battery Stratification,
an Equalization Charge (increasing charging voltage to 14.4-volts) must be applied periodically. The Charge
Wizard automatically selects its EQUALIZING MODE (14.4 volts) every 21 hours for a period of 15 minutes.
This Equalizing Charge feature is standard on our Marine chargers.

As you have learned, in order to properly charge and maintain a lead acid battery you must use an intelligent
charging system. Progressive Dynamics, Inteli-Power 9100 Series RV converters with a Charge Wizard
installed, or one of our Inteli-Power Marine Battery Chargers will provide the intelligent charging system your
battery needs for a long life, with low maintenance.

ANSWERS TO COMMON QUESTIONS ABOUT BATTERIES

Do lead acid batteries discharge when not in use?

All batteries, regardless of their chemistry, will self-discharge. The rate of self-discharge for lead acid batteries
depends on the storage or operating temperature. At a temperature of 80 degrees F. a lead acid battery will
self-discharge at a rate of approximately 4% a week. A battery with a 125-amp hour rating would self-discharge
at a rate of approximately five amps per week. Keeping this in mind if a 125 AH battery is stored for four
months (16 weeks) winter without being charged, it will loose 80 amps of its 125-amp capacity. It will also have
severe sulfation, which causes additional loss of capacity. Keep your batteries charged while not in use!

Do lead acid batteries develop a memory?

Lead acid batteries do not develop any type of memory.

Do I need to completely discharge my lead acid battery before recharging it?

No, in fact you should never discharge your lead acid battery below 80% of its rated capacity. Discharging it
below this point or 10.5 volts can damage it.

When do I need to perform an equalization charge?

Equalizing should be performed when a battery is first purchased (called a freshening charge) and on a regular
basis (every 10 discharge cycles or at least once a month). Reduced performance can also be an indicator that
an equalizing charge is needed.

What is an equalizing charge?

An equalizing charge for a 12 volt battery requires that it be charged with a voltage of at least 14.4 volts for a
period of at least one hour once a month, or every 10 discharge cycles. An equalizing charge prevents battery
stratification and reduces sulfation, the leading cause of battery failure.

When should I add water to my batteries?

How often you use and recharge your batteries will determine the frequency of watering. Also, using batteries
in a hot climate will require more frequent watering. It is best to check your battery water level frequently and
add distilled water when needed. Never add tap water to your battery. Tap water contains minerals that will
reduce battery capacity and increase their self-discharge rate.

Warning

A brand new battery may have a low electrolyte level. Charge the battery first and then add water if needed.
Adding water to a battery before charging may result in overflow of the electrolyte.
What is the proper electrolyte level?

Battery electrolyte levels should be just below the bottom of the vent well, about ½ - ¾ inch above the tops of
the separators. Never let the electrolyte level to drop below the top of the plates.

Do I ever need to add acid to my battery?

Under normal operating conditions, you never need to add acid. Only distilled or deionized water should be
added to achieve the recommended electrolyte levels.

Can my batteries freeze?

If your battery is partially discharged, the electrolyte in a lead acid battery may freeze. At a 40% state of
charge, electrolyte will freeze if the temperature drops to approximately -16 degrees F. When a battery is fully
charged the electrolyte will not freeze until the temperature drops to approximately -92 degrees F.

What are the most common mistakes made by owners of lead acid batteries?

 Undercharging - Generally caused by not allowing the charger to restore the battery to full charge after
use. Continuously operating a battery in a partial state of charge, or storing the battery in the
discharged state results in the formation of lead sulfate (sulfation) on the plates. Sulfation reduces the
performance of the battery and may cause premature battery failure.

 Overcharging - Continuous-charging causes accelerated corrosion of the positive plates, excessive

water consumption and in some cases, damaging temperatures within the battery. Lead acid batteries
should be charged after each discharge of more the 50% of its rated capacity and during or after
prolonged storage of 30 days or more.

 Under-watering - In lead acid batteries water is lost during the charging process. If the electrolyte level
drops below the tops of the plates, irreparable damage may occur. Check your battery water level
frequently.

 Over-watering - Excessive watering of a battery results in additional dilution of the electrolyte, resulting
in reduced battery performance. Add water to your battery after it has been fully charged, never when
the battery is partially discharged.

Can I reduce the need to add water to my battery by lowering the charging voltage to 13 volts or less?

Lowering the charging voltage will reduce the need to add water, but this will cause a condition known as
battery stratification. Battery stratification is caused when the sulfuric acid in the electrolyte mixture separates
 from the water and begins to concentrate at the bottom of the battery.

This increased concentration of acid increases the formation of lead sulfate (sulfation). To prevent stratification,
your battery should receive a periodic equalizing charge (increasing the charging voltage to 14.4 volts or
above).

Battery Tutorial
Motorcycle Batteries All Batteries Battery Chargers 6–48 Volts Solar Chargers Pure Sine Inverters Battery Restoration Battery Products Fuel
Treatments Engine Cooling NiMH Rechargeables Power Tools Emergency
If you have done any research on how batteries work or what you should look for when selecting a battery, you are probably buried in
information, some of which is conflicting. At BatteryStuff, we aim to clear that up a bit.You have most likely heard the term K.I.S.S. (Keep It Simple,
Stupid). I am going to attempt to explain how lead acid batteries work and what they need without burying you with a bunch of needless
technical data. I have found that battery data will vary somewhat from manufacturer to manufacturer, so I will do my best to boil that data down.
This means I may generalize a bit, while staying true to purpose.

The commercial use of the lead acid battery is over 100 years old. The same chemical principal that is being used to store energy is basicly the
same as our Great Grandparents may have used.

If you can grasp the basics you will have fewer battery problems and will gain greater battery performance, reliability, and longevity. I suggest you
read the entire tutorial, however I have indexed all the information for a quick read and easy reference.

A battery is like a piggy bank. If you keep taking out and putting nothing back you soon will have nothing. Present day chassis battery power
requirements are huge. Consider today’s vehicle and all the electrical devices that must be supplied. All these electronics require a source of
reliable power, and poor battery condition can cause expensive electronic component failure. Did you know that the average auto has 11 pounds
of wire in the electrical system? Look at RVs and boats with all the electrical gadgets that require power. It was not long ago when trailers or
motor homes had only a single 12-volt house battery. Today it is standard to have two or more house batteries powering inverters up to 4000
watts.

Average battery life has become shorter as energy requirements have increased. Life span depends on usage; 6 months to 48 months, yet only
30% of all batteries actually reach the 48-month mark.
A Few Basics
The Lead Acid battery is made up of plates, lead, and lead oxide (various other elements are used to change density, hardness, porosity, etc.) with
a 35% sulfuric acid and 65% water solution. This solution is called electrolyte, which causes a chemical reaction that produce electrons. When
you test a battery with a hydrometer, you are measuring the amount of sulfuric acid in the electrolyte. If your reading is low, that means the
chemistry that makes electrons is lacking. So where did the sulfur go? It is resting on the battery plates and when you recharge the battery, the
sulfur returns to the electrolyte.
1. Safety
2. Battery types, Deep Cycle and Starting
3. Wet Cell, Gel-Cell and Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM)
4. CCA, CA, AH and RC; what's that all about?
5. Battery Maintenance
6. Battery Testing
7. Selecting and Buying a New Battery
8. Battery Life and Performance
9. Battery Charging
10. Battery Do's
11. Battery Don'ts

1. We must think safety when we are working around and with batteries. Remove all jewelry. After all you don't want to melt your watchband
while you are wearing the watch. The hydrogen gas that batteries make when charging is very explosive. We have seen several instances of
batteries blowing up and drenching everything in sulfuric acid. That is no fun, and would have been a good time to use those safety goggles that
are hanging on the wall. Heck, just break out your disco outfit. Polyester is not affected by Sulfuric Acid, but anything with cotton will be eaten
up. If you do not feel the need to make a fashion statement just wear junk clothes, after all Polyester is still out of style. When doing electrical
work on vehicles it is best to disconnect the ground cable. Just remember you are messing with corrosive acid, explosive gases and 100's amps of
electrical current.

2. Basically there are two types of lead acid batteries (along with 3 sub categories); The two main types are Starting (cranking), and Deep Cycle
(marine/golf cart). The starting battery (SLI starting lights ignition) is designed to deliver quick bursts of energy (such as starting engines) and
therefore has a greater plate count. The plates are thinner and have somewhat different material composition. The deep cycle battery has less
instant energy, but greater long-term energy delivery. Deep cycle batteries have thicker plates and can survive a number of discharge cycles.
Starting batteries should not be used for deep cycle applications because the thinner plates are more prone to warping and pitting when
discharged. The so-called Dual Purpose Battery is a compromise between the two types of batteries, though it is better to be more specific if
possible.

3. Wet Cell (flooded), Gel Cell, and Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) are various versions of the lead acid battery. The Wet cell comes in two styles;
Serviceable and Maintenance free. Both are filled with electrolyte and are basicly the same. I prefer one that I can add water to and check the
specific gravity of the electrolyte with a hydrometer. The Gel Cell and the AGM batteries are specialty batteries that typically cost twice as much
as a premium wet cell. However they store very well and do not tend to sulfate or degrade as easily as wet cell. There is little chance of a
hydrogen gas explosion or corrosion when using these batteries; these are the safest lead acid batteries you can use. Gel Cell and some AGM
batteries may require a special charging rate. If you want the best,most versatile type, consideration should be given to the AGM battery for
applications such as Marine, RV, Solar, Audio, Power Sports and Stand-By Power just to name a few. If you don't use or operate your equipment
daily, AGM batteries will hold their charge better that other types. If you must depend on top-notch battery performance, spend the extra
money. Gel Cell batteries still are being sold but AGM batteries are replacing them in most applications. There is a some common confusion
regarding AGM batteries because different manufactures call them by different names; some of the more common names are "sealed regulated
valve", "dry cell", "non spillable", and "Valve Regulated Lead Acid" batteries. In most cases AGM batteries will give greater life span and greater
cycle life than a wet cell battery.
SPECIAL NOTE about Gel Batteries: It is very common for individuals to use the term GEL CELL when referring to sealed, maintenance free
batteries, much like one would use Kleenex when referring to facial tissue or "Xerox machine" when referring to a copy machine. Be very careful
when specifying a battery charger, many times we are told by customer they are requiring a charger for a Gel Cell battery and in fact the battery
is not a Gel Cell.

AGM: The Absorbed Glass Matt construction allows the electrolyte to be suspended in close proximity with the plates active material. In theory,
this enhances both the discharge and recharge efficiency. Common manufacturer applications include high performance engine starting, power
sports, deep cycle, solar and storage battery. The larger AGM batteries we sell are typically good deep cycle batteries and they deliver their best
life performance if recharged before allowed to drop below the 50% discharge rate. The Scorpion motorcycle batteries we carry are a nice
upgrade from your stock flooded battery, and the Odyssey branded batteries are fantastic for holding their static charge over long periods of non
use. When Deep Cycle AGM batteries are discharged to a rate of no less than 60% the cycle life will be 300 plus cycles.

GEL: The Gel Cell is similar to the AGM style because the electrolyte is suspended, but different because technically the AGM battery is still
considered to be a wet cell. The electrolyte in a Gel Cell has a silica additive that causes it to set up or stiffen. The recharge voltage on this type of
cell is lower than the other styles of lead acid battery. This is probably the most sensitive cell in terms of adverse reactions to over-voltage
charging. Gel Batteries are best used in VERY DEEP cycle application and may last a bit longer in hot weather applications. If the incorrect battery
charger is used on a Gel Cell battery poor performance and premature failure is certain.

4. CCA, CA, AH and RC. What are these all about? These are the standards that most battery companies use to rate the output and capacity of a
battery.

Cold cranking amps (CCA) is a measurement of the number of amps a battery can deliver at 0 ° F for 30 seconds and not drop below 7.2 volts. So
a high CCA battery rating is especially important in starting battery applications, and in cold weather.This measurement is not particularly
important in Deep cycle batteries, though it is the most commonly 'known' battery measurement.

CA is cranking amps measured at 32 degrees F. This rating is also called marine cranking amps (MCA). Hot cranking amps (HCA) is seldom used
any longer but is measured at 80 ° F.

Reserve Capacity (RC) is a very important rating. This is the number of minutes a fully charged battery at 80 ° F will discharge 25 amps until the
battery drops below 10.5 volts.

An amp hour (AH) is a rating usually found on deep cycle batteries. If a battery is rated at 100 amp hours it should deliver 5 amps for 20 hours, 20
amps for 5 hours, etc.

5. Battery Maintenance is an important issue. The battery should be cleaned using a baking soda and water solution; a couple of table spoons to
a pint of water. Cable connections need to be cleaned and tightened as battery problems are often caused by dirty and loose connections. A
serviceable battery needs to have the fluid level checked. Use only mineral free water, Distilled is best as all impurities have been removed, and
there is nothing left that could contaminate your cells. Don't overfill battery cells especially in warmer weather because the natural fluid
expansion in hot weather can push excess electrolytes from the battery. To prevent corrosion of cables on top post batteries use a small bead of
silicone sealer at the base of the post and place a felt battery washer over it. Coat the washer with high temperature grease or petroleum jelly
(Vaseline), then place cable on the post and tighten. Coat the exposed cable end with the grease. Most folks don't know that just the gases from
the battery condensing on metal parts cause most corrosion.

6. Battery Testing can be done in more than one way. The most accurate method is measurement of specific gravity and battery voltage. To
measure specific gravity buy a temperature compensating hydrometer, to measure voltage use a digital D.C. Voltmeter. A quality load tester may
be a good purchase if you need to test sealed batteries.

For any of these methods, you must first fully charge the battery and then remove the surface charge. If the battery has been sitting at least
several hours (I prefer at least 12 hours) you may begin testing. To remove surface charge the battery must be discharged for several minutes.
Using a headlight (high beam) will do the trick. After turning off the light you are ready to test the battery.

State of Charge Specific Gravity Voltage

12V 6V

100% 1.265 12.7 6.3

*75% 1.225 12.4 6.2

50% 1.190 12.2 6.1

25% 1.155 12.0 6.0

 Discharged 1.120 11.9 6.0

*Sulfation of Batteries starts when specific gravity falls below 1.225 or voltage measures less than 12.4 for a 12v battery, or 6.2 for a 6 volt
battery. Sulfation hardens on the battery plates reducing and eventually destroying the ability of the battery to generate Volts and Amps.

Load testing is yet another way of testing a battery. Load test removes amps from a battery much like starting an engine would. A load tester can
be purchased at most auto parts stores. Some battery companies label their battery with the amp load for testing. This number is usually 1/2 of
the CCA rating. For instance, a 500CCA battery would load test at 250 amps for 15 seconds. A load test can only be performed if the battery is
near or at full charge.

The results of your testing should be as follows:

Hydrometer readings should not vary more than .05 differences between cells.

Digital Voltmeters should read as the voltage is shown in this document. The sealed AGM and Gel-Cell battery voltage (full charged) will be
slightly higher in the 12.8 to 12.9 ranges. If you have voltage readings in the 10.5 volts range on a charged battery, that typically indicates a
shorted cell.

If you have a maintenance free wet cell, the only ways to test are voltmeter and load test. Any of the maintenance free type batteries that have a
built in hydrometer(black/green window) will tell you the condition of 1 cell of 6. You may get a good reading from 1 cell but have a problem with
other cells in the battery.

When in doubt about battery testing, call the battery manufacturer. Many batteries sold today have a toll free number to call for help.

7. Selecting a Battery - When buying a new battery I suggest you purchase a battery with the greatest reserve capacity or amp hour rating
possible. Of course the physical size, cable hook up, and terminal type must be a consideration. You may want to consider a Gel Cell or an
Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) rather than a Wet Cell if the application is in a harsher environment or the battery is not going to receive regular
maintenance and charging.

Be sure to purchase the correct type of battery for the job it must do. Remember that engine starting batteries and deep cycle batteries are
different. Freshness of a new battery is very important. The longer a battery sits and is not re-charged the more damaging sulfation build up
there may be on the plates. Most batteries have a date of manufacture code on them. The month is indicated by a letter 'A' being January and a
number '4' being 2004. C4 would tell us the battery was manufactured in March 2004. Remember the fresher the better. The letter "i" is not used
because it can be confused with #1.

Battery warranties are figured in the favor of battery manufactures. Let's say you buy a 60-month warranty battery and it lives 41 months. The
warranty is pro-rated so when taking the months used against the full retail price of the battery you end up paying about the same money as if
you purchased the battery at the sale price. This makes the manufacturer happy. What makes me happy is to exceed the warranty. Let me assure
you it can be done.

8. Battery life and performance - Average battery life has become shorter as energy requirements have increased. Two phrases I hear most often
are "my battery won't take a charge, and my battery won't hold a charge". Only 30% of batteries sold today reach the 48-month mark. In fact
80% of all battery failure is related to sulfation build-up. This build up occurs when the sulfur molecules in the electrolyte (battery acid) become
so deeply discharged that they begin to coat the battery's lead plates. Before long the plates become so coated that the battery dies. The causes
of sulfation are numerous. Let me list some for you.

 Batteries sit too long between charges. As little as 24 hours in hot weather and several days in cooler weather.
 Battery is stored without some type of energy input.
 "Deep cycling" an engine starting battery. Remember these batteries can't stand deep discharge.
 Undercharging of a battery to only 90% of capacity will allow sulfation of the battery using the 10% of battery chemistry not reactivated
by the incompleted charging cycle.
 Heat of 100 plus F., increases internal discharge. As temperatures increase so does internal discharge. A new fully charged battery left
sitting 24 hours a day at 110 degrees F for 30 days would most likely not start an engine.
 Low electrolyte level - battery plates exposed to air will immediately sulfate.
 Incorrect charging levels and settings. Most cheap battery chargers can do more harm than good. See the section on battery charging.
 Cold weather is also hard on the battery. The chemistry does not make the same amount of energy as a warm battery. A deeply
discharged battery can freeze solid in sub zero weather.
 Parasitic drain is a load put on a battery with the key off. More info on parasitic drain will follow in this document.

There are ways to greatly increase battery life and performance. All the products we sell are targeted to improve performance and battery
life.

An example: Let's say you have "toys"; an ATV, classic car, antique car, boat, Harley, etc. You most likely don't use these toys 365 days a year as
you do your car. Many of these toys are seasonal so they are stored. What happens to the batteries? Most batteries that supply energy to power
our toys only last 2 seasons. You must keep these batteries from sulfating or buy new ones. We sell products to prevent and reverse sulfation.
The PulseTech products are patented electronic devices that reverse and prevent sulfation. Also Battery Equaliser, a chemical battery additive,
has proven itself very effective in improving battery life and performance. Other devices such as Solar Trickle Chargers are a great option for
battery maintenance.

Parasitic drain is a load put on a battery with the key off. Most vehicles have clocks, engine management computers, alarm systems, etc. In the
case of a boat you may have an automatic bilge pump, radio, GPS, etc. These devices may all be operating without the engine running. You may
have parasitic loads caused by a short in the electrical system. If you are always having dead battery problems most likely the parasitic drain is
excessive. The constant low or dead battery caused by excessive parasitic energy drain will dramatically shorten battery life. If this is a problem
you are having, check out the Priority Start and Marine Priority Start to prevent dead batteries before they happen. This special computer switch
will turn off your engine start battery before all the starting energy is drained. This technology will prevent you from deep cycling your starting
battery.

9. Battery Charging - Remember you must put back the energy you use immediately. If you don't the battery sulfates and that affects
performance and longevity. The alternator is a battery charger. It works well if the battery is not deeply discharged. The alternator tends to
overcharge batteries that are very low and the overcharge can damage batteries. In fact an engine starting battery on average has only about 10
deep cycles available when recharged by an alternator. Batteries like to be charged in a certain way, especially when they have been deeply
discharged. This type of charging is called 3 step regulated charging. Please note that only special SMART CHARGERS using computer technology
can perform 3 step charging techniques. You don't find these types of chargers in parts stores and Wal-Marts. The first step is bulk charging
where up to 80% of the battery energy capacity is replaced by the charger at the maximum voltage and current amp rating of the charger. When
the battery voltage reaches 14.4 volts this begins the absorption charge step. This is where the voltage is held at a constant 14.4 volts and the
current (amps) declines until the battery is 98% charged. Next comes the Float Step. This is a regulated voltage of not more than 13.4 volts and
usually less than 1 amp of current. This in time will bring the battery to 100% charged or close to it. The float charge will not boil or heat batteries
but will maintain the batteries at 100% readiness and prevent cycling during long term inactivity. Some Gel Cell and AGM batteries may require
special settings or chargers.

10. Battery Do's

 Think Safety First.
 Do read entire tutorial
 Do regular inspection and maintenance especially in hot weather.
 Do recharge batteries immediately after discharge.
 Do buy the highest RC reserve capacity or AH amp hour battery that will fit your configuration.

11. Battery Don'ts

 Don't forget safety first.
 Don't add new electrolyte (acid).
 Don't use unregulated high output battery chargers to charge batteries.
 Don't place your equipment and toys into storage without some type of device to keep the battery charged.
 Don't disconnect battery cables while the engine is running (your battery acts as a filter).
 Don't put off recharging batteries.
 Don't add tap water as it may contain minerals that will contaminate the electrolyte.
 Don't discharge a battery any deeper than you possibly have to.
 Don't let a battery get hot to the touch and boil violently when charging.
 Don't mix size and types of batteries.
 Solar Tutorial
I am not sure what information most folks think they will find in a solar tutorial. Rain or shine we get a huge number of calls about
solar power each day. We will attempt to answer the questions most often asked so we can save you a phone call.

Before we get started we think you need to know that solar power is not the cure all for replacing spent energy. For example some are
trying to recharge batteries for a Trolling Motor, Boat, RV, House, Electric Scooter, Backwoods Cabin, etc. and they want it done in a
very short time, usually in just a few days. Assume you take a discharged 100-amp hour battery and charge it with a 30-watt solar
panel under ideal summer time light conditions. After a full week the battery will be just about fully charged. Using this example you
can see that it will take at least 100-watts of solar power to recharge a 100-amp hour battery in a few days. Keep in mind that it takes
direct sunshine on the surface of the panel to produce the maximum rated power of a solar panel. Conditions such as an overcast sky,
shadows, improper mounting angle, equatorial direction or short winter days will reduce the actual solar panel output to below the
rated values.

VOLTAGE RATING
Most solar products offer are designed for 12 VDC, but we do have limited availability on a smaller 24 volt panels. Typically when 24
volts or greater is needed, solar panels may be wired in series, or we can special order solar panels that are made to deliver more DC
Volts such as 24, 36, 48 etc.

Charge Controllers

Why use a charge controller? We recommend that you use a solar charge controller on any photovoltaic system when the total watt
output of your panels is 5 watts or higher. In simple terms, these units act as an on/off switch for your solar panel. This prevents the
panels from overcharging your battery or batteries when they reach full charge. The controller measures the voltage in the battery and
shuts off when fully charged, and turns back on when the battery voltage drops. This allows your panel to act as a smart battery
charger, giving you worry free solar battery charging.

CONTROLLERS
Anytime you use a panel that is over 5 watts rated output, we recommend using a solar controller. Actually, a charge controller is a
good idea in a majority of applications. A charge controller can provide several benefits such as preventing overcharge, improve
charge quality, and prevent battery discharge in low or no light conditions. Some solar panels are made with blocking diodes pre-
installed that prevent battery discharge during low or no light conditions. In most case where a 6-watt or larger solar panel is installed
use of a charger controller is highly recommended. In a nutshell, solar charge controllersact like an on and off switch, allowing power
to pass when the battery needs it and cutting it off when the battery is fully charged. Something to be aware of when selecting a
controller is that they are typically rated in amps, while photovoltaic panels are typically rated in watts. So the morningstar SS-6, 6
amp controller will work with nearly every panel we sell right up to about 70 watts.

POWER RATING WATTS AND AMPS

Solar panels manufacturers rate solar output in watts. As a rule of thumb a rating of 15 watts delivers about 1 amp per hour in direct
sunlight. As an example, the SP-5 panel can output one third of an amp per hour. This is a very popular panel for maintaining single
and dual batteries for stand-by and storage applications. Typically this power output is stored in a battery for use when the panel is not
producing energy. This energy is stored for later use and also allows the battery to act as a filter to prevent damage to any sensitive
electronics you may be powering.

HOW DO I FIGURE SOLAR PANEL SIZE

The first thing to remember about solar power is that it is all a matter of numbers. The power you require, vs. power the panel can put
out. Before you can even get started when purchasing a panel, you need to know how many amp hours or watts you will need to
produce in a set period of time; This figure could be measured in hours or days. Since there are 24 hours in a day, we suggest you use
that as a baseline. First, get your total electrical consumption in that time period. Then figure the amount of direct sunlight the solar
panel will receive in that time period and come up with a total amount of watts-hours needed. You should always err on the side of
caution and over-estimate your power needs. This will help compensate for variables like shade, clouds, panel angle, etc. Once you
have a good handle on your power requirements, I suggest you go to our Solar Calculator

OUTPUT CONDITIONS
Solar panels ratings are calculated in bright direct sunlight. Conditions such as indirect sunlight, overcast and partial shade will
decrease the output. We always recommend over-sizing the size of your solar array, as these conditions occur often. Also remember
that the length of daylight in summer vs. winter can be quite different.

OPERATING A DEVICE DIRECTLY FROM SOLAR PANEL

This can be done as long as the device is designed for such an application and not sensitive to voltage variations. It is best to use a
battery as a storage container for energy that will provide constant source of stable, reliable power.

ARE SOLAR PANELS WEATHER PROOF

Nearly all solar panels are designed for outdoor installation, as this is where they will recieve the best, most direct exposure to
sunlight. Remember that anything less than that will cause the panel to produce less than it's full rated power
DO I HAVE TO MAINTAIN SOLAR PANELS
A periodic inspection to remove dirt, debris and check electrical connections is all that is needed.Keeping the panel clear of snow and
debris will allow for better results.

HOW LONG DO SOLAR PANELS LAST

Performance from a solar panel will vary but in most cases guaranteed power output life expectancy is between 3 and 25 years. This
guaranteed life expectancy rating is usually 80% of the published rating of the Solar panel. Of course this will vary from manufacturer
to manufacturer, and as always, you typically get what you pay for. Watch out for those cheap panels made in Pakichinastan.

USE OF AN INVERTER
Many folks use an inverter to convert 12 VDC to 110 VAC. Inverters, because whenever you change power from one form to another,
are power gobbling monsters and should be avoided when possible. If you have a choice of a 12 volt dc powered device or 110 volt ac
device, go with the 12 volt DC device. There are DC devices on the market that either step down or step up DC power and these also
use significantly more power than otherwise.

FORMULA DC to AC via an Inverter

Formulas and Examples for 12 & 24 Volt DC Systems

This “Rule of Thumb” is intended as a general guide for estimating the DC amps required operating a DC to AC inverter. Since the
calculations yield approximate values, an appropriate safety factor should be considered when designing and specifying system
components, for example: wire, size, and length. This basicly is legalese for "oversise your system"

12 Volt DC Systems

Formula: 12 volt inverters require approximately ten (10) amps DC input for each 100 watts output power used to operate an AC
load.
Example: How many DC amps will a 12-volt inverter require to operate three 500-watt quartz lights, or a 1500-watt electric heater?
Answer:
1) Total watts = 1500
2) 1500 watts/100 (from formula) = 15
3) 15 X 10 amps (from formula) = 150 amps. This is the DC current the inverter will use to operate the 1500-watt load. Note; If these
150 amps are drawn from the battery for one hour, 150 amp hours of battery power will be used.
To support 150 amp hours of battery power 300 amps of battery capacity should be used for maximum battery life and performance.

24 Volt DC Systems
Formula: 24 volt inverters require approximately five (5) amps DC input for each 100 watts output power used to operate an AC load.

Example: How many DC amps will a 24-volt inverter require to operate three 500-watt quartz lights, or a 1500-watt electric heater?
Answer:
1) Total watts = 1500
2) 1500 watts/100 (from formula) = 15
3) 15 X 5 amps (from formula) = 75 amps. This is the DC current the inverter will use to operate the 1500-watt load. Note; If these 75
amps are drawn from the battery for one hour, 75 amp hours of battery power will be used.
To support 75 amp hours of battery power 150 amps of battery capacity should be used for maximum battery life and performance.