Woodworker's Journal 2015 08

TODAY’S WOOD SCREW TECHNOLOGY: SURPRISING DETAILS (p.
44)
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W o o d w o r k e r ’ s J o u r n a l
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Contents
August 2015 Vo l u m e 3 9 , N u m b e r 4
Projects
Picnic Table Page 54

By A.J. Hamler
Translucent-Screen Shutters
A stylish backyard dinner is in your future with our By Larry Okrend
Mission-style picnic table. Simple construction, elegant eating!
Page 28 Let the light shine in, but keep your privacy
secure, with these opaque shutters.
Page 34
Easy-to-Build Benches
By Simon Watts
This bench is appropriate for indoor or outdoor use, and you can
easily adapt it to a size suitable for adults or children.
Greene & Greene-Inspired Nightstand

By Chris Marshall
Page 38 Sleep blissfully with a classic mahogany nightstand beside your bed.
Lovely lines and beautiful lumber combine to make a family heirloom.
4 WorldMags.net August 2015 Woodworker’s Journal

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Departments WorldMags.net
8 Letters 22 Woodturning 64 What’s in Store

A reader applies a formula to Some spindles have flat spots: Tool innovations and adapations.
calculate a radius. flat/round turning.
70 Finishing Thoughts
12 Tricks of the Trade 26 Techniques Water-based finishes and stains:
Snug up sloppy miter bars with Use triangles as a tool for accurate better than before.
metal HVAC tape. angle cuts on the table saw.
74 Hey … Did You Know?
14 Questions & Answers/Stumpers 44 Today’s Shop Old bodgers, wood for wet
Why do band saws have two Sandor Nagyszalanczy takes you bearings and more.
speeds? What’s the best shop on a tour of updates in wood screw
flooring? technology.
18 Shop Talk 52 Tool Preview

Veterans group discovers a Leigh’s new RTJ400 has turned
Civil War era flag and elaborately routing dovetails and box joints
carved frame. upside down.
woodworkersjournal.com
T
he fact that you’re reading this tells me that
you love learning about woodworking. I’m
guessing you may even get a little impatient
waiting for the next issue of Woodworker’s Journal to
arrive. I get it. I’m a woodworker, too, and I’m always
interested in hearing about the latest tools or looking
for a new project to tackle. One of the best ways I’ve
found to scratch that itch is by opening my weekly
issue of the Woodworker’s Journal eZine. It’s filled
with the latest tool updates, woodworker interviews, expert advice and
project plans. And, it shows up in my email inbox every week for FREE!
The eZine is no secret if you’re one of the over 270,000 woodworkers
who already subscribes and get your update every week. But if you’re not
getting the Woodworker’s Journal eZine, then find out what you’re missing.
It’s easy (and free): just go to woodworkersjournal.com/ezine/subscribe and
sign up now.
— Dan Cary
P.S. Know what else is online? Great deals like cool T-shirts!
Check out the new Woodworker’s Journal T-shirts: three

versions in two color choices — all with fun woodworking
sayings. They are $14.99 at woodworkersjournal.com/store

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Letters
WorldMags.net ROCKLER PRESS
THE VOICE OF THE WOODWORKING COMMUNITY
Styling in the Shop! AUGUST 2015

Volume 39, Number 4
IT’S T-SHIRT WEATHER! ROB JOHNSTONE Publisher
Not everybody likes T-shirts, but most woodworkers I know JOANNA WERCH TAKES Editor
wear them all the time. So, a while ago, in our eZine CHRIS MARSHALL Senior Editor
JEFF JACOBSON Senior Art Director
(www.woodworkersjournal.com/ezine) we hosted a contest
JOE FAHEY Associate Art Director
asking for great woodworking sayings that would look good
DAN CARY Senior Web Producer
on a T-shirt. Now, I am pleased to announce, we have put MATTHEW HOCKING Internet Production Coordinator
those slogans on T-shirts with groovy-looking graphics and MARY TZIMOKAS Circulation Director
have them for sale on our website store. The slogans are: KELLY ROSAAEN Circulation Manager
LAURA WHITE Fulfillment Manager
“I came, I sawed, I conquered!”
“In this world, nothing is certain but death, taxes and wood movement” Founder and CEO
ANN ROCKLER JACKSON
And my personal favorite:
“Woodworker’s Journal: Based in Minnesota for your protection.”
Publisher Emeritus
LARRY N. STOIAKEN
For me, looking good while letting folks know that I am a woodworker: that’s as good
Contributing Editors
as it gets. And even though my significant other has given me a list of where I can NORTON ROCKLER
wear (grocery store, out for a walk, yes) and where I can’t wear (church, business SANDOR NAGYSZALANCZY
ERNIE CONOVER
meetings, fancy restaurants, no) my new duds, I can’t wait until I see all the jealous
looks as I walk through the lumberyard. If you are looking for a bit of sartorial splendor, Advertising Sales
ALYSSA TAUER Advertising Director
see page 6 for more info. And if not, you’ll just have to make up your own slogans! atauer@woodworkersjournal.com
— Rob Johnstone DAVID BECKLER National Sales Representative
dbeckler@woodworkersjournal.com
(469) 766-8842 Fax (763) 478-8396
Disapproves of Design
In Ernie Conover’s article, “Carving
Editorial Inquiries
Linenfold Panels” [April 2015],
JOANNA WERCH TAKES
he commits two cardinal sins. jtakes@woodworkersjournal.com
The cabinet is built with flatsawn
rails and stiles, and he carved the Subscription Inquiries
linenfold panels out of the same (800) 765-4119 or
flatsawn lumber. The figure on the www.woodworkersjournal.com
Write Woodworker’s Journal, P.O. Box 6211,
wood fights with the design, such Harlan, IA 51593-1711
that it’s hard to read the design email: WWJcustserv@cdsfulfillment.com. Include mailing
of the cabinet. There’s a reason label for renewals and address changes. For gift
that rails and stiles are made with subscriptions, include your name and address and
straight grain lumber, which is your gift recipient’s.
the same reason that carvers
Book Sales and Back Issues
use wood with the least apparent Call: (800) 610-0883
grain: so you can read the design. www.woodworkersjournal.com
Ernie’s cabinet has a visual battle
royal going on. Woodworker’s Journal (ISSN: 0199-1892), is published in February,
Barry Saltsberg handle frame sizes up to 81⁄2" x 15". April, June, August, October and December by Rockler Press Inc.,
Plainview, New York I recently had the need to build 4365 Willow Dr., Medina, MN 55340. Periodical postage paid at
a larger size frame and found the Medina, Minnesota and additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send
all address changes to Woodworker’s Journal, P.O. Box 6211, Harlan,
Framing Jig Upgrade large adjustments using the star
IA 51593-1711. Subscription Rates: One-year, $19.95 (U.S.); $28.95
Although I originally built the knob to be tedious. My solution U.S. funds (Canada and other countries). Single copy price, $5.99.
“Framing Jig” which appeared in was to turn the star knobs into Reproduction without permission prohibited. Publications Mail Agreement
the April issue to handle mostly Number 0861065. Canadian Publication Agreement #40009401.
smaller frames, it will, as built, Continues on page 10 ... ©2015 Rockler Press Inc. Printed in USA.

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Letters continued
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Raymond LaRochelle upgraded
the adjustment system of his
Framing Jig by adding a crank.
cranks using a dowel, a piece A reader’s reaction to two

of HDPE plastic and a few articles in the April issue added
up to a mathematical formula for
bolts. To provide clearance
calculating a radius.
for the crank, I added 11⁄2"-
high feet to the base. Large
adjustments are now much
faster than before.
Raymond LaRochelle
Livermore, California
Dead Nails a Clincher

I smiled when I read your
trivia topic about deadening
nails [Did You Know, April
2015]. My family was in the
salvage business. Wood we
salvaged had the dead nails In Mike Loveland’s equation, C = the chord, R = the radius and h = the
removed. Dead nails really height distance between the chord and the radius.
There’s more online at work: I have doors on my
woodworkersjournal.com outbuildings that have nails followed by a refinement to Lock Miter Bit Routing
www.woodworkersjournal.com
that are bent dead. They are the design. Then I read about I enjoyed reading Michael
MORE ON THE WEB still solid with well over 100 Sandor Nagyszalanczy’s Crow’s “L. & J.G. Stickley-
Check online for more content years of use. “Mid-Century Coffee Table” Inspired Settle” article [April].
covering the articles below:
Dan Debenedetto, project. I was impressed It had some great tips on build-
Woodturning (page 22): Halfmoon, New York with his circle jig on the ing in the Arts and Crafts style.
Shoulder transition cuts on back patio. We woodworkers However, when routing with a
spindles with square spots (video) If you were a carpenter in the always have jigs, shop aids lock miter bit, Crow states that
Picnic Table (page 28): Midwest where the majority and template-making on the cut must be completed
Using a circular saw to cut a slot of them were of German the brain. in one pass. While it is true
normally done on a table saw descent, the “dead nail” bent Later, I read about Larry that you must not change the
(video) over was called “clinching.” Okrend’s “Bowfront Hall Ta- bit height between passes,
Greene and Greene Don Elenz ble.” In looking at his curved you can certainly change the
Nightstand (page 38): Using a Sun City, Arizona layout using three nails and a fence settings. I like to dial in
vacuum bag system for laying up metal straightedge, I then re- my fence setting for a perfect
thick veneer (video) Article Solves Another called Sandor’s patio setup. I lock miter. Then I add a 1/4"
Today’s Shop (page 44): I just finished reading the thought there must be a way spacer to make the first pass.
Improvements in wood screw April issue. The first thing to mathematically calculate After that, I remove the spacer
technology (video) that grabbed me was a letter any radius and then use the and complete the second pass.
Tool Preview (page 52): from Paul Johnson and I three-nail system for layout. It makes much cleaner cuts,
Overview of the Leigh RTJ400 quote, “One of the easiest Out came an old engineering and it is perhaps easier on the
Router Table Dovetail Jig (video) things to do is find fault with book, and there are some router as well.
Small Shop Journal (page 54): someone else’s design.” relatively simple equations. Willie Sandry
Using a routing jig to form lattices That gave me a chuckle. Mike Loveland Camas, Washington
(video) But, in reality, it’s usually Edmond, Oklahoma

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Tricks of the Trade
WorldMags.net
Clever Tweaks to Improve Tools
Tested and photographed by Chris Marshall
Simple Scribes are

in the Cards
When I need to scribe
an inside corner, two
playing cards make
it easy. I match the
shape by overlapping
the cards and fitting
them around it, then
holding them together
Cardboard Stands Save Effort with a few paper clips.
It’s tough to hold long pieces of quarter Now I’ve got an exact
round molding for priming and painting, but recently I template for scribing
had 300 ft. of it to prepare for our new home. So, I used the mating workpiece.
cardboard from our moving boxes to make four of these Serge Duclos
triangular stands, taped together, with V-notches cut Delson, Quebec
along the top. The notches were shallow enough to hold
the molding’s curved edge “proud” for easy finishing.
Tom Kaye
Louisville, Kentucky
Two Rules Tackle Fractions

Here’s an old carpenter’s trick for solving fractions that works
either with two tape measures or steel rules. If you need to
add or subtract two fractional measurements, place the two
side by side and align them according to the lengths that need
Bull’s-eye Level Keeps Drilling on Target to be added or subtracted. It doesn’t matter if the denomina-
Even though a drill press is best for drilling holes perpendicu- tors of the fractions match, because you’re simply comparing
lar to a workpiece, sometimes your only option is a hand drill. two distances, not computing two fractions. For instance, in
To help me drill more squarely, I attached an inexpensive the photo here, 31⁄16" (top rule) + 15⁄8" (bottom rule) = 411⁄16".
bull’s-eye level to the back of my drill with hook-and-loop tape. The ends of their overlaps tell you the sum. Subtract the same
Thanks to this fix, I can get very close to drill press accuracy way: the end of the overlap minus one rule’s length shows you
by keeping the bubble centered as I drill. the answer. No complicated math required.
Bill Wells Charles Mak
Olympia, Washington Calgary, Alberta

PICK
WorldMags.net OF THE
TRICKS
In addition to our standard payment

(below), Peter Moore of Oakland,
California, will also receive a
RIDGID 10” Dual Bevel Miter Saw
(R4112) for being selected as the
“Pick of the Tricks” winner. We
pay from $100 to $200 for all tricks
used. To join in the fun, send us
your original, unpublished trick.
Foil Tape Snugs Up Sloppy Miter Bar
Please include a photo or drawing
My portable table saw suffered from a loose-fitting miter bar in the table slots, which made
if necessary. Submit your Tricks to
it inaccurate. So, I applied a couple of layers of metal foil HVAC tape along the edge of the
Woodworker’s Journal, Dept. T/T,
miter bar to serve as shims. I was able to widen the bar just enough to allow for smooth,
“slop” free action. If you try this trick, apply full-length strips and not short pieces, and use P.O. Box 261, Medina, MN 55340.
a utility knife rather than your best scissors to cut it. The metal tape will dull them. Or send us an email:
Peter Moore tricks@woodworkersjournal.com
Oakland, California
Safety First Learning how to operate power and hand tools is essential for developing safe woodworking practices.
For purposes of clarity, necessary guards have been removed from equipment shown in our magazine. We in no way
recommend using this equipment without safety guards and urge readers to strictly follow manufacturers’ instructions and
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Questions & Answers
WorldMags.net
Plane
Answers ening process. The goal is to
create a curve that will make
a shaving that is about 90% of
the width of the blade.
Rounding the corners of
THIS ISSUE’S EXPERTS
the blade does not accom-
Ian Kirby is plish what the curved edge
the author of Sharpening with will give. The plane marks
Waterstones and the DVD are still there, just a little
Sharpening Planes and Chisels. less pronounced. Whether
Our expert
Sandor Nagyszalanczy is a explains that to the plane is a low angle or a
writer/photographer of several avoid plane marks normal bench plane makes
woodworking books and a in your work-
no difference — the blade
frequent contributor to piece, you need
to sharpen your is sharpened with a curve in
Woodworker’s Journal.
plane irons with a the same way.
Rod Burrow is quality assurance/ subtle curve. — Ian Kirby
customer service manager at
Q
RIKON Tools.
I’m getting ready to
Contact us
Q I have run across the
statement several times
that the corner on bevel-up
If you sharpen a blade
so that the sharp edge is
absolutely straight and then
retire in the coming
months and am in a position
to build an actual workshop
by writing to “Q&A,” plane blades (irons) must be use it to plane a piece of for my woodworking toys
Woodworker’s Journal, more pronounced than on wood that is wider than the instead of sharing with the
4365 Willow Drive, bevel-down blades. What is plane — say, a tabletop — garage. I know my wife
Medina, MN 55340, the reasoning behind this? you will take off a shaving would be happy to have a
R.E. Jones that is the full width of the place to park her car out of
by faxing us at (763) 478-8396
Saginaw, Michigan blade. This shaving will leave the elements. My question: if
or by emailing us at:
behind two steps on the I build a two-car garage, what
QandA@woodworkersjournal.com
Please include your home
address, phone number and
A The bodies of early
planes were made of
wood. The only metal in-
surface, one at each side of
the shallow groove you just
cut. The height of the step is
should I use for flooring?
I know standing all the
time on concrete is tiresome
email address (if you have one) volved was the blade assem- the thickness of the shaving and can cause problems
bly. It consisted of the iron — it’s called a “plane mark.” with leg issues that I would
with your question.
and the cap iron. The cap To avoid this, the blade is not like to avoid, but are rubber
iron has kept its name. Now sharpened straight but with mats the answer or should I
Flooring tiles like Dri-Dek allow most woodworkers refer to a slight curve. The curve is consider something else?
you to customize the areas you and the “iron” as the blade. visible if you hold the blade Lee Nalley
your tools stand on in the shop.
to the light and gently place a Ellerslie, Georgia
rule or a straightedge on it.
The amount of the curve
is related to the thickness of
the shavings you are going
A While you might want
to discuss the relative
merits — and costs — of
to remove. “Hogging” off installing a wood floor
the wood with thick shav- in your shop instead of a
ings requires more curve concrete one, you’re correct
than “cleaning up” when the in saying that rubber mats
shavings will be one or two are the cheapest way to
thousandths of an inch thick. make concrete floors more
Making the curve is a matter comfortable to stand on. I
of practice, and it’s done with find the 24" by 36" anti-fa-
a few strokes on the fine
stone at the end of the sharp- Continues on page 16 ...

WorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Stumpers
WorldMags.net
Questions & Answers
continued
”No More Free Milk”
photo courtesy of SteerPlanet.com

tigue mats made for use in
Or, “tough love, Old McDonald style” commercial kitchens and fac-
tories are just right for use in
front of benches, stationary
machines and workstations.
For more complete floor
Lavern Zimmerman of coverage, you might consider
Shiloh, Ohio, commented installing interlocking rubber
about the April issue mys- or plastic floor tiles typically
tery tool (from Rick Kerns sold as garage flooring. You
of St. Joseph, Missouri): “I Joe Price of Clinton, can customize tile layout to
Mississippi, noted that modern
am very curious to know cover all the areas of your
versions of the April mystery tool
how many other people are less aggressive. shop where you walk and
know what it is!” stand, yet save money by
Answer? 974. There’s purpose as “tough love, Old leaving the areas under
a lot of readers out there McDonald style.” “When machines, benches, cabinets,
with a farm background the calf tries to nurse, the etc., uncovered. Tiles are
(no word on whether prongs prick the cow,” said reconfigurable, should your
they’ve seen Par-ee), plus Byron DeLong of Ocqueoc, shop layout change in the
a few “bovine veterinari- Michigan. Keith Hodgin of future. There are two basic
ans” like Todd Plocher of Coleridge, North Carolina, types of interlocking tiles:
Salem, Ohio. said the cow’s reaction textured solid surface tiles
Grant Coffin of Black would be “evasive action,” (e.g., ModuTile workshop
Hawk, South Dakota, said, while Larry Darrow of tiles) and mesh-style “open
“This device is called, lo- Salina, Kansas, noted, “A few weave” tiles (e.g., Dri-Dek®).
What’s This? cally, a blab.” Other names, kicks from Mom, and the Solid surface tiles provide
from Syp Vander Dussen youngster learns that there a continuous, nonslip surface
This mystery tool belongs to Mark of Chowchilla, California, is no more free milk.” that’s easier to clean but
Patrick of Ionia, Michigan. Do you include “a calf trainer, or a It’s not always “Mom”: don’t typically provide the
know what it is? nose spider.” “It is a wean- “Sometimes, you have a same amount of cushioning
Send your answer to ing device for cattle,” said calf who thinks every cow that thicker mesh-style tiles
Carla Meyers of Curtis, around is a free meal,” said do. Open mesh tiles allow
stumpers@woodworkersjournal.com
Nebraska. David Miller of Mercer, spilled liquids or moisture
or write to “Stumpers,”
“The round balls go into Pennsylvania. Or, as Dick seeping through the concrete
Woodworker’s Journal, 4365 the calf’s nostrils,” explained Smith of Leawood, Kansas, to readily evaporate, but they
Willow Drive, Medina, MN 55340 Jim Pease of Waterville, said, “Occasionally a cow also trap sawdust as well as
for a chance to win a prize! Ohio. “You would tighten would get the habit of drink- accidentally dropped small
down the bolt to hold it ing her own milk, straight parts and screws. However,
snugly in place,” added Joe from the source.” you can usually vacuum the
Robertson of Chickasha, By the time the calf weaner sawdust out — and recover
Oklahoma. “Additionally, a is removed, said Dean lost parts — without having
strap is attached to the eye- Budde of Avon, Minnesota, to disassemble the tiles.
lets,” said J.M. Ferguson of the calf has “transformed its — Sandor Nagyszalanczy
Sweet Home, Oregon. nourishment source to the
Pat McDonnell of
Homer, Alaska, described its
green pastures surrounding
him/her.” Q Like most band saws,
mine has two speeds:
1,445 and 2,950. I’ve always
Woodworker’s Journal editor Winner! Ricky Schlatter of Cochran, been curious as to when
Joanna Werch Takes compiles Georgia, wins a Hitachi 23-Ga. Pin Nailer it is most beneficial to use
each issue’s Stumpers responses (NP35A). We toss all the Stumpers letters the slow speed. Is this a
— and reads every one. softwood/hardwood issue?
into a hat to select a winner.
I’ve always left my saw set

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at the higher speed because power the blade through Winner!
I’ve never had the need to rough cutting, such as For simply sending in his
change it. I’m sure that there resawing, without stalling. question on band saw speeds,
is a good reason for more The usefulness of a two-
Edward Burns of Mount Holly,
than one speed or it wouldn’t speed band saw is most
North Carolina, wins a
be there. Would you be so prevalent at low speed.
kind as to shed some light on With proper blade selection, General International 7-piece
this subject for me? one can cut plastic, foam, Deluxe 8" Dado Blade Set
Edward Burns composite and nonferrous (item 55-185).
Mount Holly, North Carolina materials. The best example Each issue we toss new
is the ability to cut a Lexan
questions into a hat and
A Band saws with a

two-speed option give
workers and artisans alike
sheet down to size to use as
a window for a picture frame
without melting or curling
draw a winner.
the ability to introduce the edges. Another example

different types of material cially if your saw is equipped is to cut brass strips to use as
into their workpieces. It is with cast-iron wheels. The inlay in a coffee table.
suggested to use high speed theory is to use the mass of — Rod Burrow
for all wood cutting, espe- the wheels to help the motor
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ShopWorldMags.net
Talk
Restoring Civil War Flag Frame
Below: Veterans Council
Commander Bob Page posed,
the week it was found, with the
flag and frame meant to honor
Solon A. Perkins (shown above).
photo courtesy of Richard P. Howe, Jr.
I
n January 2014, Steve Lowell Veterans Council, then Solon A. Perkins joined a
Purtell and Gus Kanakis under Commander Bob Page, cavalry unit, the Independent
made a discover y at which jumped into action to Battalion of Massachusetts,
the Veterans Memorial restore the flag and 73" wide later becoming part of the
Auditorium in Lowell, x 54" high frame, bringing it Third Massachusetts Cavalry.
Massachusetts: a Civil War to Camille Breeze of Museum Perkins was commissioned
flag and carved frame. Textile Services in Andover on February 20, 1862 and was
Steve Purtell said, “We for the restoration of the flag killed in a skirmish on June
found the flag leaning behind itself and to Melissa Carr of 3, 1863 in Clinton, Louisiana.
a piano one day in basement Masterwork Conservation in After his death, the flag was
storage and knew there was Arlington for the restoration sent to his mother.
much more history behind of the frame. Lowell historian Richard
this unique piece. I have Howe says, “We can’t know
This rifle detail from the frame’s left
never seen anything like it.” Whose Flag? for sure, but I believe he was
side is shown how it now looks They brought it to the The story behind this flag so highly regarded by his
after conservation treatment. attention of the Greater began when 24-year-old men that they sent the guidon

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The sword hilt is shown

at left before undergoing
Paint restorer Adeline Myers worked to clean and restore the inscription at the bottom rail of the restoration and, above,
inner frame: “Under this flag at Clinton, La., June 3, 1863, Solon A. Perkins was killed.” after treatment.
restoration photos courtesy of Melissa Carr

to his mother as a special other. There were three city of Lowell. I
honor for her.” Mrs. Perkins phases: cleaning, stabiliza- regard it as a way
kept it for many years, later tion and loss replacement. to communicate
giving it to Charles Knapp, a She also had to analyze the with the past.”
banker at Lowell’s Middlesex carvings. Were the carvings
National Bank, who commis- of the military equipment Legacy
sioned the elegant frame. replicas of actual weapons Conservator
The main purpose of a or simply approximations of Melissa Carr says,
“guidon” flag is to literally carbines, sabers, etc.? The “What struck me
“guide on” the troops. Sol- carbine, for example, was from the begin-
diers would know where and missing the trigger, trigger ning and all along
when they were to move by guard, sight and hammer the project is the
watching their flag. Histo- assembly. caring attached to
rian and consultant Steve The Internet was a this flag and frame.
The eagle is one of the three-
Hill, of the Dupage Military valuable resource, yielding The men originally with
dimensional carvings on the frame.
Flag Company, said of the photographs in enough Perkins cared enough to save The carving style is similar to that
piece, “Clearly this particular angles to be able to repro- this flag. How did his mother of John Haley Bellamy.
guidon, judging by the mag- duce the missing parts and feel when she received the
nificent job of framing, was identify it as a Joslyn .52 flag? What were the circum-
very important to those who caliber carbine, model 1862 stances that she gave the
originally carried it.” or 1863. Whoever carved it flag to Charles Knapp? Was
He also clarified that this had also carved the backs of she dying? There was a huge
particular type of guidon was the attachments as well as amount of care initially, then
common after 1862. “At the the front. They were in 3D, 120 years later, the Veterans www.woodworkersjournal.com
MORE ON THE WEB
beginning of the Civil War, even though those sections Council’s care. The veterans
For a video on the Greater
guidons were simple swallow- would not be seen. group came into my studio as
tailed flags of two colors: the The quality of the frame if they were carrying a new- VIDEO Lowell Veterans Council’s
upper half red, and the lower has led to speculation that it born baby. The word legacy efforts to restore the flag and
half white. The Union guidons might be the work of master is overused, but people have frame, please visit our website
were redesigned as small, nineteenth century carver kept caring about this flag woodworkersjournal.com and click
swallowtailed versions of the John Haley Bellamy, who was and frame.”
on “More on the Web” under the
Stars and Stripes.” in the area at the time — but At presstime, the Greater
that might never be known Magazine tab.
Lowell Veterans Council had
Preserving It for sure. raised $9,400 toward the
When conservator Melissa Historian Richard Howe $15,000 restoration costs.
Carr started the project, she says, “The guidon is a Further information can be
did a thorough evaluation of tangible object that was with found in their video or at
the frame, which was actually these men in Mississippi, www.lowellvets.org.
two frames, one inside the many of them from my home — Helen Hannon

Shop Talk continued
WorldMags.net
Colin McGuckin
John Gable
Christy Kobasa Cool Kids’ Stuff

From time to time,
Springfield High School
instructor George Trout
sends Woodworker’s Journal
updates on the work his
14- to 18-year-old students
have been doing in the
Industrial Materials pro-
gram at the Pennsylvania,
school. After purchasing
their own lumber, in the rough, from Delaware County
Supply Company, the students put problem-solving,
critical thinking and creative expression skills together
into their choice of project, which must be completed
within one school year. See more at
ssdcougars.org/webpages/gtrout.
Brooke Shea
Kayla Howard
Karlene Raines
WorldMags.net August 2015 Woodworker’s Journal

WorldMags.net

Woodturning
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Who Says a Spindle Has to Be Round?
By Ernie Conover
Our author describes how to use flat segments as an element of design and utility.
square section into which the

rails are mortised or bolted.
On wingnuts, ratchet paws
and other mechanical parts;
wooden forks and spoons;
and tool handles, you will
often find two sides flat.
One side may be flat on a
chair stretcher, to serve as
a footrest, or on the plug for
the mouthpiece of whistles
and recorder flutes.
These variations on the
theme are what I call “flat/
round” work.
Work Sharp
In turning spindles that have
portions left square or flat,
the importance of sharp
tools cannot be overempha-
sized! Spindle tools, like the
roughing-out gouge, spindle
gouge, skew chisel and
beading and parting tools,
have to be just as sharp as
W
e tend to think of to accept a rail into which bench tools, with long bevels
spindles as round, the balusters are mortised. in severe 25° to 30° angles.
but it is often nec- Turned bedposts need a Tools that are less than keen
MORE ON THE WEB essary to leave flat spots.
For a video on making In some cases, a spindle
VIDEO various shoulder may have four sides left
square. Most table legs have
transition cuts, please visit
a section at the top called
woodworkersjournal.com and
the “pommel,” left square
click on “More on the Web” to accept the aprons. Some
under the Magazine tab. table and chair legs also have
square sections near the
bottom to accept stretchers.
Most newel posts have a
square section at the top
to accept the railing, and These chairs in the Yale University Furniture Collection are prime exam-
also a section at the bottom ples of legs with square sections near the bottom to accept stretchers.

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The handles on these antique screwdrivers were made with flat spots,
which tell the user the alignment of the top and provide more purchase to
torque screws home. After first turning a handle with flat spots, it’s easy to
Most newel posts have a square section at the top to accept the railing, make it into an oval handle (see inset) by rolling the flats against a belt or
and a section at the bottom to accept a rail for the balusters. disc sander.
and/or have short bevels will that is cut to uniform squares For things like screwdriver
make leaving flat or square or rectangles is imperative. handles or forks and spoons,
portions much more difficult For spindles with areas left using a marking gauge and
by causing ragged and square, it is just a matter of dividers is the surest way to
chipped edges. accurate centering on each find center on both ends.
In flat/round work, precise end when mounting the
layout saves time and mate- blank. The easiest way to Lathe Speed
rial. It is the key to getting accomplish this is by scribing Enough, but not too much,
everything right the first diagonal lines between the speed on the lathe helps
time around. Jointed stock corners. This method works greatly in making the transi-
equally well with slightly tions from square to round.
rectangular stock. For 2" square and smaller
These ratchet pawls are on a

Swedish band loom. The tall
column to which the pawls are
attached is square with the top
section turned: it is flat/round.
The fipple plug for the mouth-

piece of whistles and recorder
flutes (seen above) has to have an
exactly sized flat spot so the right
For relatively flat boards that are going to be turned into things like salad forks, dividers and a marking gauge volume of air hits the sharp edge
(seen in the tool well in the photo above) give speed and accuracy to finding the center and the layout. of the bore.

Woodturning continued
WorldMags.net
Shouldering the Burden:
The Most Difficult Area
It only stands to reason that if you have a flat area on a round spin-
dle, there is an area where the round changes to flat (or vice versa).
This is called a transition, and there are three basic ways to form the
transition — each can be modified to suit the turner’s aesthetic.
A hard square
shoulder transition
The author turned the stretcher on this three-legged stool in two axes,
is most commonly with an intentional flat spot meant to serve as a footrest.
encountered in table
spindles, 1,000 to 1,800 rpm also presents some pinch
and chair legs. The
is appropriate; however, the potentials in areas where the
best tool for this is higher end of this spectrum flat parts are spinning near
the skew, presented is for the experienced turner the tool-rest. The novice is
with a heavy lathe. The be-
with the toe down and
Hard Square Shoulder ginner, using a lighter lathe,
the edge absolutely is well advised to stay closer
vertical. The handle must be angled such that the appropriate bevel is to the 1,000 rpm speeds.
90˚ to the work, making it kiss the shoulder throughout the cut. For 4" square and larger
spindles, speeds between
For a half bead
500 and 800 rpm are better,
shoulder, the cut is depending on lathe and
made with a spindle experience.
gouge after first
The Transition
making a square The difficult part of leaving
face with a skew. It an area square focuses on
is a half bead, rolled the shoulders, where the
transition occurs. This transi-
mostly on air. It makes tion can take three different
Half Bead Shoulder
an elegant transition basic forms, as shown in
and is used mostly on table legs, bedposts, new posts and balusters. the photos in the sidebar at
left. (You can also watch me When he turned six replacement
It is helpful to draw a pencil line a set distance from the square face
make these three cuts in my balusters with tapered octagonal
to give yourself a starting point. More on the Web video.) sections, the author found the
The cut for a half As with learning any new turning easy. The difficult part was
tapering the octagon, which he did
cove shoulder is done technique, practice makes
at the bench with a #97 plane.
perfect, and testing these
entirely with a sharp various forms is best done on well advised to stop the lathe
spindle gouge. It dif- scrap lumber rather than on when moving the tool-rest or
fers from a half bead your prized stock intended the banjo. And for the same
for project use. reasons, it is a good idea to
cut only in that it is a
completely remove the tool-
cove instead of a bead. Safety Consideration rest during sanding.
Either is cut mostly on For some flat work, such
Half Cove Shoulder as salad forks, it is often Ernie Conover is the author of
air. The trick is to start
easier and safer to use the The Lathe Book, Turn a Bowl with
with the handle low and touch the bevel of the gouge to the work. band saw to remove excess Ernie Conover and The Frugal
Slowly bring the handle up until the edge just cuts. Now, roll the bead. material. Square and flat work Woodturner.

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Techniques
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Dead-on Angles in the Woodshop
By Al Goldstein
Here’s an inexpensive, easy and super-accurate way to align your crosscut

sled and miter gauge.
triangle to the saw kerf in the

sled base and the other 90˚
side to the front fence. This
is accomplished by placing
a flat reference surface in
the saw kerf to contact the
triangle. For standard saw
blades, I find aluminum bar
stock 1/8" thick works well.
Thinner blades will require
a thinner reference surface.
The reference surface must
be at least 1/8" proud of
the sled base to contact the
plastic triangle.
The second step is to use Hold the triangle so that
plastic drafting triangles to one 90˚ side is always in con-
set accurate angles. They tact with the aluminum bar
are inexpensive and highly and slide the triangle toward
accurate. the front fence. Take care
that the fence does not con-
Table Saw Sleds tact the aluminum bar. When
Plastic drafting triangles (or those When it comes to crosscut the other 90˚ edge of the
specifically made for woodworking) sled construction, the crucial triangle is in full contact with
can be used to verify that a crosscut element is setting the front the fence, it will be exactly
sled is cutting true 90˚ angles.
fence exactly perpendicu- perpendicular to the saw
lar to the saw kerf in the kerf. (See top photo, above
M
aking accurate sled’s base. After mounting left.) With a bit of practice,
angle cuts on the the unfinished sled on the you can align the front fence
table saw can be a table saw miter slot(s) and with your eyes closed.
challenge. This technique is partially cutting through its The triangle can also be
a great way to be sure that base, one end of the front used to verify that an existing
your setups are dead-on accu- fence is attached to the sled fence is properly aligned.
rate. It is easy to implement base and then rotated to be Place one 90˚ side against the
and does not depend on exactly perpendicular to the aluminum bar in the saw kerf
aging eyes or shaky hands. saw kerf. and then slide it toward the
Al Goldstein The first step is to verify The key to this technique index fence and verify that
that the table saw blade is is to use mechanical contact the other 90˚ side makes full
parallel to its miter slots. of one 90˚ side of a plastic contact with the fence. The

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An accurate woodworking
version of the drafting triangle
is available for purchase on
our website:
#31545 ....................... $15.99
woodworkersjournal.com/store
bottom photo, opposite page,

shows this verification, with After placing a miter bar into the right-hand miter slot and raising it up with pennies placed
the triangle in contact with underneath, the author uses a drafting triangle to set the miter gauge for a perfect 90˚ cut.
both the 1/8" aluminum bar
and the front fence of this sled.
Miter Gauge
The alignment of miter gauges
is accomplished in much the
same manner, making use
of both miter slots: the miter
gauge in one and a refer-
ence surface in the other. Of
course, this technique relies
on the fact that the two miter
slots are parallel.
The most convenient ref-
erence surface is a commer-
cially available — or shop-
made — miter bar placed in
one miter slot and elevated
higher than the table saw
surface by placing pennies
In a method similar to that for setting a 90˚ angle, the author can also set up his miter gauge
underneath as spacers. to cut a perfectly accurate 45˚ angle — a common-sense solution to a tricky setup.
Slide the miter gauge in
the other miter slot with its the miter gauge, and it will This method has the ben-
fence free to rotate. Position be dead-on perpendicular to efit of being highly accurate
the plastic triangle between the miter slots — and, hence, and easily repeatable. And, of
the two miter slots with one the saw blade. (See the top course, if you have other tri-
90˚ side held against the photo, above.) angles with other angles, you
elevated miter bar. Slide In a similar fashion, a 45˚ can also convert those into
the miter gauge toward the miter gauge angle may be dead-on angles for creating
triangle, allowing its fence to achieved accurately using great woodworking joinery!
rotate until it makes full con- a 45˚ triangle with its long
tact with the other 90˚ side side placed in contact with Al Goldstein is a retired medical
of the triangle. Make certain the elevated miter bar. The physicist, using his experience in
that the end of the elevated bottom photo, above, shows making accurate measurements
miter bar does not contact a 45˚ angle being aligned on to advance his woodworking to
the miter gauge fence. Lock a miter gauge. a higher level.

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MISSION PICNIC TABLE

By A.J. Hamler
With a slight twist on the usual flavor of picnic table design, you can dine al fresco in style.
I
f Yogi Bear had spent more time would have been the typical attached why a picnic table couldn’t be just as
building picnic tables instead of bench, A-frame style picnic table found sturdy and serviceable with a Mission
robbing from them, I suspect Ranger in every park. Yawn. flavor. (Who doesn’t love Arts & Crafts?)
Smith’s job would have been less stress- When I thought about the design for With its complementary horizontal and
ful. Not sure what Yogi’s furniture tastes this picnic table, it occurred to me that vertical lines along with the side slats,
were (he was probably more concerned most are boringly utilitarian. You rarely typical of the Mission style, you can
with what was in the pic-a-nic baskets), see one in a distinct furniture style. With bring flavor to your outdoor dining in
but chances are good that his table that in mind, I couldn’t see any reason more ways than one.

WorldMags.net Cut table components to size
per the Material Lists, but keep
in mind the variances common
in cedar’s width and thickness.
Wood Considerations all four sides) measure

The first thought for any outdoor 11⁄2" x 31⁄2", but a cedar 2x4
furniture is making it to withstand the (rough on all four sides)
elements. Regular pine dimensional measures 13⁄4" x 33⁄4". The
lumber is inexpensive but should be Material Lists on pages
painted or stained regularly if you want 31 and 33 list the actual
it to last. Treated construction lumber is sizes of the cedar used for
also commonly used, although it’s very this project.
heavy and sometimes oddly colored. If you’ve never worked
Although more expensive, the best with cedar before, take a
choices are woods that naturally resist look at the sidebar “Rough,
both weather extremes and insect but Ready” for some handy
damage. Almost any lumber suitable tips and advice.
for decks works great, with redwood,
Western red cedar and even white oak Getting Started
being favorites. For the perfect balance Cut your workpieces to size per the
between durability and weight, I’ve Material Lists. Keep in mind the
chosen Western red cedar. actual dimensions of the cedar you
Keep in mind that cedar typically get when cutting.
comes with one or more sides left Rough cedar has a surface that can be
rough, which can slightly alter the quite splintery, especially on the corners
dimensions from what you’re used to of all straight edges. To make the stock
working with. It’s important when using easier to work with — and lower your
cedar dimensional lumber to carefully chances of getting splinters — chamfer
measure your workpieces, and adjust or bevel the edges a bit. A small block The author chamfers the corners of his cedar
component sizes accordingly. For plane does great, as seen in the photo components. It not only helps to prevent slivers,
example, typical pine 2x4s (smooth on at right, but a sanding block with coarse but it looks great, too.
Rough, but Ready: Working with Cedar

Western red cedar is a delightful wood. It’s great for outdoor products, it takes screws and nails readily, and your shop smells wonderful when
cutting it. (And for days afterward!) But there are a couple of odd things about it you should know.
s Cedar typically comes with rough, unplaned faces; 1x dimensional cedar lumber usu-
ally has one rough face, while 2x stock is rough on all four faces. This roughness adds
both thickness and width wherever it occurs. A dimensional pine 2x4 measures 11⁄2” x
31⁄2”, but a cedar 2x4 is 13⁄4” x 33⁄4”. This extra thickness may vary from board to board
— or even within the same board — but count on an additional 1/8” for each rough
face. Always measure your stock, and adjust workpiece size and nail/screw length to
account for any variance.
Cedar width and thickness is typically a bit larger than When working cedar
comparable dimensional lumber. The rough cedar 2x4 with a dado cutter,
shown here measures 1 3⁄4” thick. watch out for flying
splinters.
s Cedar is splintery, really splintery, so handle it with care. Knock splinters off
edges and corners with a plane or sanding block whenever possible. Take extra
precautions when cutting cedar, particularly with a router or a dado cutter on
the table saw, as splinters and knots — some of them surprisingly large
— can fly in all directions even when using dust collection.

Mark the notches for
the vertical slats on
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the table and bench
end assemblies. A
square is a must for
this task.
With all the notches marked, start

each with a pass over the dado cutter
on your marks to define the width of
the notch, and then just remove the
waste in the center. Between the table
and the two benches, you’ll have a total
of 36 of these notches to cut, so pace
yourself accordingly.
Finish the preparation of the end piec-
es by mitering the corners for both the
top and bottom, and cutting the relief on
paper also works fine. If the underside of the bottom pieces. The
you’re feeling ambitious, a band saw is perfect for this, but a jigsaw
small roundover bit in your or handsaw works just fine, too.
router is another option.
I started the construction Assembling the Ends
process with the benches, Line up the top and bottom end pieces,
so that’s what you’ll see in making sure to orient the corner
most of the photos, but the notches toward the middle. Be aware
procedure for building the that 1x dimensional cedar is typically
ends of the main table and rough only on one side, so orient the
the benches is nearly iden- slats with the smooth side facing inside
tical: your construction can the benches and table to give a uniform
go in pretty much any order. appearance on the outside.
However, you might find it Apply weatherproof glue into each
more efficient to cut all your notch and bridge the top and bottom
mortises for the side slats pieces by dropping the slats into place.
on both table and benches Drill countersunk pilot holes, then drive
Cut each notch by first defining the ends, then plow out the at the same time. For this four exterior screws into each joint.
waste between them. Be sure to set the cutter height to task, I’ve installed a 3/4" With regular pine dimensional lumber
accommodate your stock’s actual thickness.
dado set in my table saw, 11⁄4" screws are best to avoid piercing
but you could also make the the other side, but with the typically
notches with a circular saw thicker cedar, you should be able to use
and bench chisels, as seen screws a full 11⁄2" in length. Be sure to
in my video. measure first.
Lay out the notches by Speaking of screws, you’re going to
first measuring the thick- need a bunch: With 36 of these joints to
ness of the 1x4 side slats secure, you’ll need 144 of them.
and setting the height of The boards for the tabletop and bench
the dado cutter to match. seats are secured via cleats from the
(Remember, it’s probably underside. However, before attaching
slightly more than the the cleats, give the inner top of each
typical 3/4".) Starting in the end piece a quick sanding to ensure that
center, carefully measure it’s flush across the slats. Due to the
the spacing of each notch nature of cedar lumber, there may be a
using a rule and square for slight variance in thickness at the end
accuracy. Since some of from one slat to another. The difference
Cut the profiles of the top and bottom components of the bench
your marks are pretty close probably won’t be much, if any, but you
and table end assemblies on the band saw as seen here, or together, it’s a good idea to want to be sure it’s flush for the cleat to
with a jigsaw or handsaw. mark the waste areas. attach securely.

WorldMags.net 5
6
3
4
5
1 Exploded View
4
MATERIAL LIST (Bench)

2
TxWxL
1 Bench End Bottoms (4) 13⁄4" x 33⁄4" x 16"
2 Bench End Tops (4) 13⁄4" x 33⁄4" x 101⁄2" Bench Assembly
3 Bench Slats (8) 7/8" x 31⁄2" x 151⁄4" (End View)
3
4 Bench Stretchers (4) 13⁄4" x 33⁄4" x 52"
5 Bench Cleats (4) 13⁄4" x 13⁄4" x 41⁄2"
6 Bench Seat Boards (4) 13⁄4" x 53⁄4" x 72"

1
The cleats themselves are 13⁄4" x 13⁄4"
strips that I ripped from a 2x4. After
making the cut, one side will be smooth

from the saw blade, so use this side for
the mating surface, and attach with glue
and screws. For the thicker cedar, use
3" screws, but slightly shorter screws if
using regular dimensional lumber.

Making the Frames

For rigidity, the bench and table frames
are joined with 2x4 stretchers under-
neath the top boards, while the table
gets some additional bracing.
Cut the stretchers to length — the making sure that everything is flush Topping it Off
bench stretchers are sized smaller to along the top. Now, drill 1/4" pilot holes Lay the top boards on your workbench
allow the bottoms of the benches to fit for four evenly spaced 5/16" x 41⁄2" lag or assembly table, orienting the boards
between the ends of the table for com- bolts through the bench and table ends, so their presentation sides are face
fortable seating. Clamp the stretchers then drive the bolts in with washers as down, and then upend and center the
to the ends of the mounting cleats, in the photo at left on the top of page 32. frames on your boards. The benches are
Set the vertical slats securely into their notches Before attaching the mounting cleats, sand Center the mounting cleats on the inside tops of
with weatherproof glue and exterior-grade the cleat location flush, if needed, to ensure a the table and bench end assemblies, and secure
screws for outdoor durability. secure attachment. with weatherproof glue and exterior screws.

WorldMags.net www.woodworkersjournal.com
MORE ON THE WEB
For a video on cutting
VIDEO notches with a circular saw
and bench chisels, please visit
woodworkersjournal.com and click
Magazine tab.
of both the tabletop and bench seat

boards, as well. Another benefit of sand-
ing the top of the table is that removing
the roughness makes it easier to clean
Drill a pair of 1/4” pilot holes for each stretcher Upend the bench and table frames onto the 2x6 after your picnic.
through the bench and table ends, then drive top boards, and drive 3” screws through the
home 4 1⁄2”-long lag bolts for a solid frame. cleats to hold them in place.
pretty easy to handle, but you may want screws, countersink a diagonal pilot hole
to enlist a helper for the table frame. through each of the end pieces. Drive in
With the frame in place, drive a pair a 31⁄2" screw at each point to secure the
of exterior screws through the cleat edges of the outer boards.
and up into the undersides of each Construction of the benches is
board. Note in the photo at right (above) complete, but the table needs one last
that I’m using some small pieces of component. Because of their low height,
1/4"-thick scrap to act as spacers to get the stretchers in the benches are suffi-
the boards uniformly spaced along their cient to make them solid, but the table
length. As before, 3" screws work well requires a bit more bracing. Accomplish
with thicker 2x cedar, but adjust screw this with a pair of 361⁄2" braces, mitered
length accordingly for regular dimen- 45 degrees on each end. Locate the
sional 2x lumber. lower ends at the center of the table
The cleats don’t extend past the bottoms, allowing the tops to rest nat-
stretchers, so, for the last attachment urally where they fall on the underside
Finish up the table assembly with a pair of
of the table’s center board. Attach the
diagonal braces. Attach these underneath the
lower ends to the table sides with a table with 3” exterior-grade screws.
pair of countersunk 3" screws driven
from the inside. Check the table ends
for square, then anchor the upper ends
on the underside of the table the same
way, as seen in the top photo at right.
Finishing Up
By now you’ve certainly realized that ce-
dar can be splinter-prone. (You probably
got several while building; I know I did.)
To keep from getting small splinters
while dining at your new table, give the
tabletop and the tops of the benches a
good sanding to remove the roughness.
A first pass with 100-grit paper knocks
down the roughness quickly, while a
For the outer edges of the last boards, counter- followup with 150-grit gives a nice, To avoid getting splinters during use and to help
sink diagonal pilot holes through the bench and smooth surface. While you’re at it, it’s make the table and bench tops easier to clean,
table end pieces, and secure with screws. a good idea to lightly sand the edges sand the rough surface smooth.

WorldMags.net
12
8 11
13
10
13
9
11
10
7 Exploded View 8
MATERIAL LIST (Table)

TxWxL
7 Table End Bottoms (2) 13⁄4" x 53⁄4" x 35" 9
8 Table End Tops (2) 13⁄4" x 33⁄4" x 29"
9 Table Slats (10) 7/8" x 31⁄2" x 271⁄4"
10 Table Stretchers (2) 13⁄4" x 33⁄4" x 561⁄2"
11 Table Cleats (2) 13⁄4" x 13⁄4" x 211⁄2" 7
12 Table Top Boards (5) 13⁄4" x 53⁄4" x 72"
13 Table Braces (2) 13⁄4" x 33⁄4" x 361⁄2"
Test fit your Top Boards (pieces 12) so they fit flush to

Table Assembly the edge of the Table End Tops (pieces 8).
(End View)
Because cedar is naturally resistant
to both weather and insects, no finish
is really necessary. The table will last
for many years as the color of the wood

darkens to a silver-gray patina. If you’d
like, however, an application of a sealer
can extend the natural color a bit longer,
and make it even easier to clean after
picnicking. And if you like a darker
appearance, you’re in luck: almost any
sealer for outdoor wood darkens it. Any
product for decks or other outside wood

furniture, such as Thompson’s® Water-
Seal®, does a good job.
The unique styling of this Mission-
influenced picnic table will make your
backyard the envy of the neighborhood.
Ranger Smith would certainly approve.

A.J. Hamler is the former editor of Woodshop

News and the author of Civil War Woodworking,
Volumes I and II.

Easy-to-Build Benches
WorldMags.net
By Simon Watts
These easy-to-make benches are attractive and

practical. Our author suggests you size them to
fit your needs.
I
made the first of these benches any size, but I think the one at the top I used local white ash (I’d just bought a
from a large piece of driftwood that of the opposite page looks about right. butt log from our local sawyer), but any
had washed up on the beach of my With a 44"-long top, 11" wide, it seats reasonably hard wood such as maple,
island home in Nova Scotia. The sand, two comfortably. The overhang is only oak, walnut, cherry or even fir would do
of course, ruined the saw, and the gritty 81⁄2" long, so there is little chance of equally well.
wood was impossible to plane. I still flipping it by sitting on the end.
have that bench, it still smells of the sea, The only “tricky” joint is a sliding slip Bench
and I keep it as a reminder that drift- joint between the apron and the two For children, you could very well
wood is better left on the beach. supports. You can make this on the ta- reduce the overall size of this bench
You can adapt the basic structure of ble saw or cut it by hand — if you trust 80%, 75% or even 50%. It’s best not to
this bench to make one of practically yourself to hand saw to a line accurately. reduce the thickness of the supports by

WorldMags.net
The technical drawings and the

Material List on page 37 represent
the “adult-sized” bench in the
photo above.
makes excellent pattern

stock (photo at right). Use
the pattern to mark out
the two end supports, but
leave these as rectan-
gular blanks until after
sawing the slip joints.
That way, you can use
the table saw fence to make
accurate, identical cuts. Clamp a stop Use the gridded drawing
block to it, as shown below, so you don’t on page 37 to guide you as you
oversaw. Complete the cut by chiseling lay out the hourglass-shaped leg template.
Cut the template and fair the curve, then
out the waste or using a coping saw.
use it to transfer the leg shape to your
Finish cutting out the supports by band working stock.
sawing just clear of the curved lines,
then clean up the
sawn edges with an
inside spokeshave
that has a convex
sole. Finish with a 2"
drum sander mount-
ed either in a drill
press or a handheld
the same amount, or it will begin to look electric drill.
frail. The bench in the photo above is Cut out the
reduced 50% from the adult version, so stretcher, then notch
it is only 22" long and 8" high. Instead it on the table saw to
of reducing the width of the top in pro- fit the slots already
portion, I left it a little wider for stability cut in the verticals.
— 71⁄2" instead of 51⁄2". These must be a
The first step is to make an accurate, close, sliding fit: too
full-size, half-pattern of the hour- snug and you are The notched joinery on the legs and upper stretcher can be formed using
glass-shaped vertical supports. I use the likely to split the a table saw (as shown above), or cut by hand. The lower stretcher is held
1/8" plywood known as doorskin, which ends of the stretch- in place with dowels.

WorldMags.net Test the sliding slip
joint and adjust
it until the pieces
slide together with
a smooth friction fit.
Once those pieces
fit together, use a jig
to bore holes for the
dowels, chamfer the
edges, and do your
final sanding.
Then you’re ready to

get out your clamps
and glue the pieces
together, as shown
in the photo at right.
er; too loose, and you’ll end up with a toe out slightly — not more than 1/8" the blunted look of a soft, rounded edge.
bench that wobbles (see photo above). or 3/16". This helps compensate for the Chamfer the inside curves — both
A Japanese Shinto saw file, which has optical illusion of parallel lines appear- sides, inside and out — and be consis-
both a coarse and a medium side, is the ing to converge when seen from above. tent: make a uniform 1/8" or 3/32" flat.
best tool for fitting end grain joints such The top of this bench is best attached The child’s bench is made in exactly
as these. to the base with 1/2" dowels. To facili- the same way, but you may need to use
Now cut the stretcher to length and, tate dismantling for moving or storage, smaller dowel pins.
with the aid of a doweling jig, drill two glue the dowels into the base only, not
holes in each end for 3/8" dowels (see the top. Finishing
photos below). Use doweling points to Instead of rounding the sharp edges If you plan on using the bench indoors,
transfer the hole centers to the two sup- with a wood file or sandpaper, I think it you can finish with Watco® oil: two appli-
ports. Glue the stretcher in place and looks better to plane a neat 45˚ chamfer. cations, with a light sanding in between,
adjust the clamps so the two supports This makes a crisper impression than using #600-grit wet/dry abrasive paper
and oil as the lubricant. Be sure to wipe
off the surplus within 30 minutes, or
you’ll be contending with a nasty, yellow,
wrinkled finish. Remember to treat the
oily rags as incendiary bombs — douse
them in water or put them outside on a
safe surface to dry.
If the bench is going to live outdoors,
consider using a wood that weathers
well: teak would be my first choice,
The author used a mahogany second and any of the cedars
drilling jig to ac- third. If you use a wood such as red
curately locate the
oak, which is prone to check severely in
dowel holes in the
ends of the lower rain and sun, treat it with Epifanes®, a
stretcher and the penetrating outdoor sealer widely used
legs. Then he used on boats. Of course, the lowest mainte-
dowel points to nance finish of all is a couple of coats of
transfer the dowel
good paint — you might even acquire
locations to the
inside face of the the almost forgotten skills of painting
legs and the lower and graining it to look like teak!
face of the seat.
Simon Watts is a boatbuilder, teacher and writer.
He lives in San Francisco during the winter
months and on an island home in Nova Scotia
during summers.

WorldMags.net
1
5 2 Upper Stretcher
(Front View)

5

Exploded View
5
Seat
(Top View)
3
4

4

Leg Pattern (Each square = 1”)
MATERIAL LIST
TxWxL
1 Seat (1) 1" x 11" x 44"
2 Upper Stretcher (1) 1" x 4" x 33"
3 Lower Stretcher (1) 1" x 21⁄2" x 25"
4 Legs (2) 1" x 101⁄2" x 17"
5 Dowels (8) 3/8" Dia. x 11⁄2"
Assembled Bench
(Front View)

Use the red lines as

a guide for laying
out the angles at the
bottom of the legs.

Greene & Greene-
WorldMags.net
Inspired Nightstand
By Chris Marshall Here’s a tailored
complement to our
Greene & Greene
Bed project featured
in the February
2015 issue.
38 WorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
A clamp-on routing jig, with
a slot sized to match the
fixed shelf and bottom panel
plywood thickness, ensures
accurately made dadoes in
the legs. The author used
a piloted hinge-mortising
bit (see inset) to mill these
1/4"-deep, 1"-long cuts. A
back stop on the jig limited
the cutting length.
W
hen I delivered my client Jo and the fixed shelf and bottom panel for your plywood thickness (I used a
Ellen her Greene & Greene slip into shallow dadoes that intersect 23/32"-diameter undersized plywood
bed (February 2015 issue), those grooves. So, start with those pairs bit) and mill the back panel grooves
she soon asked about other pieces that of short dadoes. I routed mine using 1/4" deep. Set your router table fence so
could fill out her bedroom suite. So, this a simple shop-made, slotted jig (see these grooves are located 1/4" in from
custom nightstand is the second install- photos, above). Mill these 1/4" deep. Be the outside faces of the back legs. Stop
ment. I used quartersawn mahogany to sure to mirror the dado orientations on them 13⁄4" up from the leg bottoms.
capitalize on its handsome ribbon-stripe the front and back leg pairs. Then, head With the leg joinery now tackled, you
grain pattern, which also gave me the to the router table to rout the 1/4"-deep can chisel all the groove and mortise
chance to try my hand at vacuum- side panel grooves with a 1/2" bit. Stop ends square. Then, make a short
bagging the side panels’ special quarter- them 21⁄4" up from the leg bottoms. template of the legs’ cloudlift shape
sawn veneer. In all, it’s an ambitious and While you’re still at the router table, from scrap, and use it both to trace leg
fun project that’s well worth your effort. and with the same bit, you can cut 1/4"- profiles for initial rough-cutting at the
deep mortises on the inside edges of the band saw, then to template-rout the
Making the Legs front legs for the top, middle and bottom cloudlifts to final form. Drill some shelf
The Material List on page 41 lists quan- rails. The 3/4"-long top rail mortise is pin holes in the legs now, too — those
tities for one nightstand, and that’s how open at the tops of the legs, while the will be much tougher to do later.
I’ll describe the building process here. middle rail’s 1"- and bottom rail’s 11⁄2"-
Double the part list if you build two. long mortises are closed on the ends, as Building the Side Assemblies
Round up some 6/4 stock for four legs, usual. Position them all 3/8" back from The side rails are your next order of
and mill them to final-sized blanks, then the front faces of the legs. business. Cut four blanks to size, and
study the Drawings carefully. You’ll see This project’s back panel is 3/4" thick, head back to the router table to mill
that the side panels fit into long grooves, so switch to a router bit appropriate their side-panel grooves. Notice that,
Mill the front legs’ rail mortises at the router ta- The cloudlift leg profiles are best made against The side panels require two different groove
ble with a 1/2" straight bit. Mark the bit location a template secured with double-sided tape. Use depths in the side rail blanks (shown): 1/2” deep
on the table to guide these “drop” style cuts. a piloted flush-trim bit to follow the template. for the bottom rails; 3/4" deep for the top rails.

WorldMags.net
Roll wood glue onto the side panel veneer and
its substrate, then assemble the lamination and
tack near one edge to keep the panels aligned.
Form two side assemblies by gluing the legs, side rails and panels together. Glue the side panels
into their grooves — their veneer/plywood construction makes wood movement a nonissue here.
plate so you can mill these shapes onto of clamps to glue and press the veneer
the bottoms of the rail edges, too. and substrates together, but when I laid
Given the striking pattern of the door up these two panels, I tried a 26" x 28"
A heavy-duty vacuum bag, one-way valve and and top’s ribbon-stripe figure, it would Thin Air Press™ Kit from roarockit.com
hand pump made easy work of pressing the side have been a shame for the side panels (see center photo, left) instead. Vacuum
panel veneers flat against their substrates. to be made from mediocre-veneered pressure alone does the clamping work
plywood stock. Why not make these beautifully. Once my two custom-
while these centered grooves are all side panels showstoppers, too?! So, I veneered panels were out of the bag, I
1/2" wide, the bottom side rail grooves resawed and glued up some 3/8"-thick trimmed them to final size.
happen on top and are 1/2" deep, while panels of quartersawn mahogany for Final-sand and glue up the legs, rails
the top side rail grooves are situated on the side panel veneer, then planed those and side panels into two side assem-
their bottom edges at 3/4" deep; label down to 1/4" thick. I cut backer panels blies. Set them aside for now.
your rails and work carefully. Once the for these veneers from 1/4" mahogany
grooves are cut, raise 1/4" tenons on plywood, which fattened the overall side Assembling the Carcass
the rail ends at the router table or table panel thickness to 1/2". You could use a There’s plenty left to do while the side
saw. Then, make a double cloudlift tem- conventional veneer press and armloads assemblies dry. Continue on by follow-
Chop 1/2" x 1/2" mortises 1/4" deep into the top The back panel and rails form a third major subassembly, while the top and middle front rails and full
and middle front rails for the full slats. The half slats make a fourth subassembly. Gluing these parts together now reduces the total number of wet
slats have no tenons that would need mortises. glue joints in the final big carcass glue-up — and that makes the whole assembly process easier.

19
Nightstand
Hard-to-Find Hardware
Ball Tip Hinges 2’’ x 1 1⁄2’’ (1 pr.)
#56930 ................................. $25.99 pr.
WorldMags.net 18
20
Cloudlift Layout
(Front View)

21 19
1/4” Shelf Pin Supports (1 pk.)

#22765 .................................... $4.99 pk.
8

Brass Ball Catch 1 11⁄16" x 5/16" (1)
#28613 ................................... $6.99 ea. 5
To purchase these and other 9
products online, 21
visit www.woodworkersjournal.com/ 2
hardware 10
Or, call 800-610-0883 (code WJ1577). 24 12 13

Full Slat Mortise 1

6

Location 4 3

(Top View) 14

1
16 15
8
23
11
25
22 1
17 7
16
Exploded View 2
Front Leg Rear Leg 15 22

Mortise Groove
Locations Locations MATERIAL LIST
(Inside View) (Inside View)

TxWxL

1 Legs (4) 13⁄8" x 23⁄8" x 241⁄8"

Front and Back
Leg Groove 2 Side Rails (4) 1" x 2" x 133⁄4"

Locations 3 Side Panel Veneer (2) 1/4" x 133⁄4" x 195⁄8"
(Inside View) 4 Side Panel Substrates (2) 1/4" x 133⁄4" x 195⁄8"

Note: Mill the same 5 Front Rail, Top (1) 1" x 1" x 16"
grooves in all four legs for
the side panels. Then, the
6 Front Rail, Middle (1) 1" x 11⁄2" x 16"

front legs receive mortises 7 Front Rail, Bottom (1) 1" x 2" x 16"

for the front rails, while the 8 Back Rails (2) 1" x 2" x 16"
back legs require a wider
groove for the back panel. 9 Back Panel (1) 3/4" x 16" x 187⁄8"

10 Fixed Shelf (1) 3/4" x 133⁄4" x 171⁄2"
Plug Locations 11 Bottom (1) 3/4" x 133⁄4" x 17"
(Top View) 12 Full Slats (2) 3/4" x 3/4" x 6"

13 Half Slats (2) 3/8" x 3/4" x 51⁄2"

14 Adjustable Shelf (1) 3/4" x 13" x 171⁄4"

15 Door Rails (2) 3/4" x 11⁄4" x 133⁄4"

16 Door Stiles (2) 3/4" x 11⁄4" x 123⁄8"

17 Door Panel (1) 1/2" x 1311⁄16" x 105⁄8"

18 Top (1) 3/4" x 161⁄4" x 213⁄4"
19 Breadboard Ends (2) 1" x 2" x 161⁄2"

20 Pegs (6) 1/4" x 1/4" x 15/16"

21 Cleats (2) 3/4" x 3/4" x 131⁄4"

22 Hinges (2) 2" Butt

23 Door Pull (1) 7/16" x 1" x 41⁄2"

24 Catch (1) Brass, ball-type

25 Shelf Pins (4) 1/4" Antique brass

Woodworker’s Journal August 2015 WorldMags.net

WorldMags.net
Pocket screws driven from the bottom panel and fixed shelf A large raised-panel cutter with a cove shape reduced the door’s 1/2"-thick panel to fit
into the front bottom and center rails strengthen these joints the frame grooves while also adding a decorative profile around its face. Take several
and ensure that the visible seams are tight from above. rounds of deepening passes for safety and to help minimize burn marks.
ing the Drawings to make top, middle with 180-grit paper, bore pocket screw one front leg, depending on which way
and bottom front rails with 1/2"-thick, holes into the bottom faces of the fixed you want the door to swing. You can
1/4"-long tenons on their ends to match shelf and bottom panels along their front rout or chisel these shallow mortises; I
the front leg mortises. The bottom front edges: they’ll connect to the rails, later. made a simple clamp-on routing jig for
rail receives a cloudlifted bottom profile. Create blanks for the two 3/4" x 3/4" this job and routed the hinge mortises
The middle and top rails will also need a x 6" full slats next, then form 1/4"-long with my piloted hinge-mortising bit.
pair of 1/2" x 1/2"-square mortises, cut tenons on their ends to fit the top and You’re finally ready to glue and clamp
1/4" deep, along their inside edges to middle front rail mortises. the carcass together, with all the parts
house the full slats, yet to come. It’s time to dry-assemble the rails, you’ve made so far. While you’re at it,
Make two back rails now, as well. slats, back, fixed shelf and bottom on drive 11⁄4" pocket screws through the
These receive centered, 1/4"-deep the side assemblies to check the fit of all fixed shelf and bottom panel to draw
grooves along their inside edges to the carcass parts. If everything regis- these panels tight to the front rails.
house the plywood back panel. Cut the ters well, glue the back panel into the Glue up a panel of solid wood for the
grooves carefully: their width needs back rails to create a third subassembly. adjustable shelf next, and trim it to final
to match your plywood thickness, and Form a fourth glue-up of the top and size. Check its fit inside the carcass
the walls of the grooves are just 1/8" middle front rails and slats. before you sand, stain and apply finish.
thick. When the grooves are done, mill Bring the four subassemblies together
1/4"-long tenons on the back rails; their again in another dry fit. Rip and cross- Making the Door
thickness must match the groove width cut two half slats to fit against the legs The door’s construction is stone-simple
on the inside faces of the back legs. between the top and middle front rails. cabinetry work: stub tenons on the ends
Then template-rout a cloudlift profile Glue them to the legs to wrap up the last of the rails fit into the grooves in the
along the bottom edge of the bottom of the carcass parts you’ll need. At this stiles that also house the center panel.
back rail to match the front bottom rail. point, stain and topcoat these big com- Start by milling stock for the door rails
You’re ready to cut plywood blanks to ponents while you can still lay them flat. and stiles. At your router table or table
size for the back panel, fixed shelf and When the finish cures, cut the two saw, plow 1/4"-wide, 3/8"-deep contin-
carcass bottom. After a light sanding hinge mortises on the inside edge of uous grooves along the inside edges of
Continous tenons on the ends of the top panel fit into matching mortises in Square pins driven into the breadboard ends and through the panel tenons
the breadboard ends. Aim for a snug friction fit of these joints. fasten the parts together. The outer pegs fit into slotted tenon holes.

MORE ON THE WEB
VIDEO
WorldMags.net
For a video showing the side

panel vacuum-bagging process,
A simple shop-made jig
makes quick, precise
work of cutting the
hinge-leaf mortises.
please visit woodworkersjournal.com and Its opening matches
click on “More on the Web” under the the exact hinge-leaf
proportions.
Magazine tab.
all four door frame parts for the center short of each end and
panel. Then machine 3/8"-long stub centering them on the
tenons on the ends of the rails using a part thicknesses. The
dado blade in your table saw or at the panel received matching
router table. Lastly, glue up a 1/2"-thick tenons at the table saw,
panel of solid wood for the door panel, followed by a quick trip to
and trim it to final width and length. the band saw to trim their
I used a cove-shaped, raised-panel end shoulders 5/8" shy
cutter in the router table to add curved of the panel edges. After
profiles around the front face of the rounding their corners, I
door panel, and to reduce its edges to installed the breadboard
slip into the frame grooves. (It’s the ends with a bead of glue
same bit I chose for the bed’s two center along just the middle
panels.) Shape the panel in several 6" of tenon length, and
Rout the cloudlifted door pull’s finger slot first, “drop-cut” style, at
rounds of passes, raising the bit about three 1/4" x 1/4"-square
your router table. Then cut out the shaped profile and round over
1/16" each time, to minimize burning. pegs driven into mortised the edges before rip-cutting the pull free at your band saw.
Sand the door frame parts and panel, holes through the tenons.
then go ahead and stain and finish The center peg fits tight in the tenon, After hanging the door on its hinges, I
the door panel now. When that cures, but the two outer pegs are nested into made a cloudlifted pull for the door and
glue up the door frame with the panel 1/2"-long slotted holes in the tenons mounted it with a pair of countersunk
installed: this enables you to trim the that run cross-grain. This enables the #8 x 11⁄8" wood screws. A ball catch
“raw” frame to fit its opening, scrape or panel to expand and contract while still came last to hold the door closed. Rest
sand the corner joints flat, if needed, staying centered on breadboard ends. I the adjustable shelf inside on its shelf
and cut the door hinge mortises. Once gently sanded the top ends of the pins, and your graceful nightstand is
these tasks are done, stain and finish pegs to “pillow” them before ready for bedside sentry duty. Jo
the door frame to complete it. tapping them home. Their Ellen’s are next to hers now.
tops protrude 1/16" above
Forming the Top the faces of the breadboard Chris Marshall is senior editor of
Breadboard tops with thicker ends are ends — a nice tactile detail. Woodworker’s Journal.
quite common on Greene & Greene
furniture, and the ends of this top pro- Finishing Up
vide 1/8" “step-ups” that add attractive Once you’ve
shadow lines where they meet the thin- applied finish to
ner center panel. Glue up the top’s 3/4" your top, install
center panel, and cut a pair of 1"-thick it with a pair of
blanks for the two end pieces. cleats screwed
Since my panel is made from quar- to the top
tersawn mahogany, its cross-grain insides of the
wood movement will be minimal. So, side rails. I
I resolved that its tenons could be used four attach-
continuous, rather than divided up ment screws for
— an otherwise typical necessity for the top: the front
wide breadboard panels made of more two are driven
reactive, flatsawn stock. into round pilot
I started by routing 3/8"-wide, holes in the cleats
11⁄4"-deep continuous mortises in the and the back two
breadboard ends, stopping them 1/2" fit in slotted holes.

Today’s Shop
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Today’s Wood Screw Technology
By Sandor Nagyszalanczy
From heads to drives, points to threads, platings to coatings, our author gives you a
thorough education in the options available in the world of modern screws.
technological developments
in construction and wood
products manufacturing have
spawned an extensive range
of new screws in recent
decades. There are so many
choices, it’ll positively make
your head spin!
I’ve written this article to
serve as a short primer on
wood screws. Close exam-
ination of the various parts
of a screw — the material
it’s made from, the design
of its head, drive style, point
and threads, the platings and
coatings that protect it from
corrosion — will give you a
better understanding of all
the design and technology
that goes into the manufac-
ture of every single screw.
Hopefully, this exploration
will better empower you the
next time you need to choose
the right screws for the proj-
ect at hand.
S
crews are undoubtedly or adhesives (and unlike
the most versatile fas- glued joints, screws are Screw Types & Materials
teners used in wood- removable, so you can take Among the many materials
working. Wood screws are apart whatever you’ve built). wood screws are made from
handy for quickly building Screws are also good for — brass, bronze, aluminum,
jigs and clamping forms, reinforcing parts assembled etc. — steel screws are the
joining cabinet and furniture with traditional joinery — for most useful for woodworking
parts, mounting hardware example, pinning tenons in and interior DIY projects.
and trim, and much more. their mortises. They’re strong, affordable
Screws form strong connec- Choosing the right wood and readily available in a vast
tions between parts made screw used to be simple: range of sizes. But old-fash-
from solid wood, plywood pick a zinc or brass screw ioned tapered steel wood
and other sheet goods with- with the right size and length screws can be a pain to use.
out the need for cut joinery for the job at hand. But Many woodworkers switched

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Old-fashioned tapered steel wood screws are made from relatively weak Originally developed for the building and wood products industries, production
steel, so their slot recesses tend to deform and cam out. The shanks of screws, as well as construction and deck screws, are made from carbon steel
drywall screws often snap when driven with ambitious force. heat treated to provide a good balance of hardness and toughness.
to inexpensive drywall use, hardened steel screws trim head screws and bugle
screws when they became aren’t especially weather head screws have heads
readily available a few de- resistant, and they are best designed to automatically
cades ago. Made from harder reserved for indoor projects. sink flush in all but the www.woodworkersjournal.com
steel that can penetrate Deck screws are basically hardest materials (e.g., MORE ON THE WEB
wallboard and studs, drywall production screws that have rosewood, ebony). Bugle For a video on advances
screws drive in quickly and been plated and/or coated head screws drive in quickly VIDEO and advantages of modern
without the need for pre- to increase their corrosion and have good holding power screw technology, please visit
drilled pilot holes. However, resistance. They’re great in most materials. Trim head woodworkersjournal.com and click
they’re relatively brittle and for outdoor projects, like screws are a good choice
will snap when subjected to playhouses or decks. For when you only need modest
high drive forces or stress, even greater resistance to holding power and don’t want Magazine tab.
making them a poor choice rust and corrosion, the two the head of the fastener to
for projects requiring strong best screw materials are show too prominently. When
construction. silicon bronze and stainless driven into pre-drilled holes,
Fortunately, a different steel. Weaker than regular they are a better choice than
kind of screw has largely steel screws, chromium finish nails for setting door
replaced traditional tapered alloy stainless steel screws jambs or mounting trim and
and drywall screws. “Pro- come in two popular grades: moldings: trim head screws
duction screws” have points Grade 305 stainless is good are less likely to split thin or
and threads sharp and strong for applications where coated delicate wood parts.
enough to penetrate the deck screws don’t have suf- Traditional flat and oval
hardest woods and man- ficient corrosion resistance, head screws lend a nice clean
The best screw materials for re-
made materials — even some while grade 316 (sometimes look to projects but require a sistance to rust and corrosion are
metals. Their heads and referred to as marine-grade conical recess for their heads silicon bronze and stainless steel.
shanks are durable enough stainless) are best for proj- drilled with a countersink. In (Brass screws, shown second
to withstand high torque ects that are exposed to salt contrast, most flat head pro- from left, also work outdoors, but
will tarnish and aren’t as strong as
delivered during driving with air or in areas where severe duction screws are self-coun-
silicon bronze.)
a power drill or impact driver, corrosion is likely to occur.
and can withstand the pun-
ishing stresses that screw- Head Type
joined furniture or cabinet Regardless of a screw’s mate-
parts may be subjected to. rial, size or length, the shape
Hardened-steel screws with of its head has a significant
brands including GRK Fas- impact in how well it works
teners™, SPAX®, PowerPro™ in any particular application.
and Saber Drive™ are often Head designs can be divided
sold as “construction screws” into two groups: those that
or “multipurpose screws.” sink flush with the work
Unless they’re specifically surface and those that stand
plated/coated for exterior proud of it. In the first group,

Today’s Shop continued
WorldMags.net This offers a reasonable Drive Type
amount of hold in hard- Unless they are building
woods, but in softer species, period-style furniture, few
the smaller heads tend to woodworkers still use tradi-
crush the wood at the sur- tional tapered wood screws
face. When the joined pieces with slotted heads, as they
are stressed, the screw’s tend to slip off the screw-
effective hold is reduced. driver or driver bit and “cam
Screws with larger heads out” easily, especially when
offer more contact area with driven with a cordless drill or
the work surface and a great- impact driver.
er resistance to penetration However, many wood-
and pull-through. workers still do use Phillips
Truss head screws (aka head screws, which came
“mushroom head” screws) into production in the 1930s
have a head much like a and became popular be-
metalworker’s pan head cause their cross-slot recess
screw, only the overall head automatically centers on
is flatter and larger in diame- the tip of the screwdriver.
ter. These are a great choice They do have a tendency to
for mounting hardware such cam out, especially when
Screws with heads that sink flush tersinking: they create their as drawer slides, where used with power drivers.
(or near flush) with the work sur-
face are, left to right: bugle head,
own recess that allows the you want good contact with But a little-known fact is that
trim head, flat head and oval head. head to sit flush (see photo, the hardware but need the Henry Phillips designed his
above). Quickscrews’ unique screw head to not stick up screws to do this on purpose!
“Funnel Head” screws, de- too far. Washer head screws To help speed up automo-
signed for use with veneered look like regular round head bile production, the cam
plywoods and coated sheet screws with small wash- out helped prevent workers
materials like melamine, ers set under their heads. from over-tightening Phillips
have double serrations, with The added surface area on head screws with early
very fine teeth that cut into the underside of the head power drivers, which lacked
delicate surfaces without prevents them from sinking torque-limiting adjustability.
tearing them up. too deeply, especially when Today’s woodworkers reduce
Among the screw head driven with power drivers. the tendency to cam out by
types that sit proud of the Appropriately named “super carefully setting the clutch-
work surface are traditional washer head” screws have es on their power drivers.
round head, pan head and even larger diameter washer POZIDRIV®, a modern vari-
The underside of the heads of (left
cheese head (aka fillister heads. They excel wherever ant of the Phillips drive, was
to right) the SPAX MULTI Head,
Quickscrews’ Funnel Head and head) screws. Each has a two parts are joined but must developed to retain centering
GRK’s R4 has nibs or serrations relatively small head with a remain adjustable, such as while reducing caming out. It
that slice into the surface to create flat bottom that bears against attaching a drawer front to a is a good choice for larger/
their own recess. the surface of the workpiece. drawer box. Wafer head (and longer screws that require
flanged head) screws have lots of torque when driven
large, flat coin-like heads. into hard materials.
Most wafer heads, including Although there are dozens
FastCap®’s “PowerHead” of modern drive styles found
screws, are not only large, on screw fasteners (hex,
but are also very thin, giving polydrive, spanner head,
them great retaining power etc.), two have become
and a low profile. particularly popular in recent
Screw heads that stand proud of decades: Robertson square
the surface include: (front) round and TORX® star drives. The
head; (left to right, middle row) square “Robertson” drive
pan, fillister, truss; and (back was developed in Canada in
row) washer, super washer,
the early 1900s, but Peter
flange and wafer.

WorldMags.net Wood screw drive and driver
styles include (left to right):
Outlaw, Posisquare (combo),
TORX (star), Robertson (square),
Phillips and traditional slotted
(which are most prone to
caming out: the driver slips out
of the screw head, distorting
the slot).
L. Roberston’s reluctance electronics. The majority of Both Robertson and TORX

to license his screws to TORX-drive woodworking drives have two qualities that
industrial users (like Henry fasteners are deck screws, make them a great choice
Ford) kept it from becoming but the drive style is gaining for woodworkers who use
popular in the United States. popularity for general-pur- power drivers: stick fit and
Only in recent decades have pose construction and cab- resistance to cam out. Stick
companies like online fasten- inet screws, too. Robertson fit is the ability of the driver
er retailer McFeely’s started drivers come in six sizes, but bit and drive recess to form a
marketing them to wood- #1 (green), #2 (red) and #3 temporary connection. Once
workers. TORX drive screws, (black) drivers are used for you set a square or star drive
with a distinctive six-point wood screws from size #3 to screw on the tip of a drive
star pattern, came out in the size #14. TORX drivers come bit, you can drive it without
late ’60s and quickly became in two dozen different sizes having to hold onto the
a popular production fastener (T1 to T100), but T15, T20 screw. This not only frees up
used on everything from cars and T25 drivers cover most your extra hand, but it allows
to motorcycles to consumer common wood screws. you to drive screws into all
Hiding or Covering up Screw Heads

Screws can provide a nice decorative detail on a project: imagine a If you’d rather enhance the presence of fasteners instead of entire-
row of shiny brass screws punctuating the edge of a walnut cabinet ly hiding them, decorative domed or button plugs or screw covers are
or a mahogany the way to go. You can see a variety in the photo below. Decorative
jewelry box. But wood plugs glue into counterbored holes and can lend a nice detail
when you don’t while keeping screws hidden. Craftsman-style hole plugs (available
want screw heads to from www.rockler.com) are sized to fit into 3/8" holes, but they have
show, hiding them square heads with pyramid-shaped tops that resemble the chiseled
or covering them ends of small through tenons traditionally used in Mission style
are both options. furniture. For modern style woodwork, try metal hole caps, available
The simplest way in various metallic finishes. I really like the look of black anodized
to make flat head aluminum plugs on a blond wood surface. Inexpensive and quick to in-
screws disappear stall, FastCap plastic screw cap covers have small tabs that snap into
is to set them into counterbored holes topped with flush-trimmed the head recesses of square drive, flat head screws. White caps are
wood plugs that match the workpiece. You can drill pilot holes and perfect for camouflaging screws in melamine cabinets, and you can
counterbores in separate steps, or use a special bit that performs both remove the caps if you need to disassemble the piece in the future.
®
tasks at once. Starborn Industries’ Pro Plug system is a very nice kit
designed to make the entire process quick and easy. It includes a spe-
cial countersink/counterbore bit, a glue bottle tip (as shown in photo
above) designed for applying glue into the holes, screws and tapered
wood plugs (available in a dozen different wood species).

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Screw Points & Threads fingers, so be careful when
A wood screw’s point and handling them! A self-tapping
threads have a mighty big flute just behind the point
task to accomplish. They cuts a hole through the sur-
must pierce the surface of face while channeling debris
wood, then pull the screw in, up the shank of the screw.
without causing the wood to This helps to pull the screw
split or splinter. Once driven, in while reducing outward
the threads have to hold the pressure that can cause splits
screw firmly in the wood so and bulges. In lieu of a fluted
that it doesn’t pull out or al- auger point, some SPAX
low the parts it joins to sepa- construction screws feature a
rate, even if they’re stressed. 4CUT ™ point with a squarish
The one-handed operation that’s
kinds of hard-to-reach places. An old-school tapered wood end that pushes aside wood
possible with square or star drives
allows you to drive screws into TORX and Robertson drives screw needs a pilot hole fibers as the screw is driven
places that are a stretched-arm’s both feature deep recesses when driven into all but the instead of cleaving them.
length away. into which the head of the softest materials: their points
driver fits snugly. The recess are relatively dull and their The Threads
has near-vertical sidewalls, shallow threads don’t offer Once the point has pulled
which means very little need much holding power. a wood screw down into
for down pressure on the In contrast, production, the material, it’s up to the
driver to keep it engaged. construction and deck threads to continue driving
This not only significantly screws have very sharp it the rest of the way in.
reduces the chance of cam points and threads that are Conventional wisdom has
out, but also reduces driver larger in diameter than the always been that screws
wear and damage. shank of the screw itself. with fine threads are best for
Two other screw drive This enables them to pene- hardwoods — oak, cherry,
styles are worth mentioning: trate most materials without maple, birch, etc. — while
Pozisquare® and Outlaw the need for a pilot hole, coarse-threaded screws drive
drive. Pozisquare (aka combo which adds up to a huge and hold better in softwoods,
drive) is a hybrid that com- time savings when installing plywood and composite
bines a #2 Phillips and a #2 them! There’s no area of sheet goods (particleboard,
square drive in a single screw wood screw development MDF, etc.). However, newer
head recess. You can use that’s seen more innovation thread designs have changed
either a Phillips or Robertson in recent years than thread the rules and made many
bit to drive them, but a special and point design. Let’s look production/construction
Pozisquare (combo) bit gives at both features in depth: screws suitable for use in a
you better stick fit and cam wide range of materials and
out resistance. The new kid The Point applications.
on the block, Outlaw Fasten- A good screw point bites into Some threads, including
ers, raised more than $100k non-pilot-drilled surfaces rap- the QuickCutter™, lead
via Kickstarter and created idly, pulling the screw down spiral and cross-cut threads,
their own line of unique deck quickly and creating an entry are designed to reduce the
screws. A three-tiered hex- hole for the screw’s shank torque needed to drive the
agonal head recess offers 18 and threads. The majority of screw. In some specialized
points of contact for a super production/construction/ screw threads, a section of
stick fit with virtually no cam deck screws rely on a Type knurled shoulder thread,
out. In lieu of using their 17 auger point to get this job just above the regular thread
A traditional tapered screw’s (left)
threads and shank are the same special driver, Outlaw screws done. This needle-sharp point of the screw, enlarges the
diameter; a production screw’s can be driven with a regular penetrates even the hard- hole slightly as the screw is
threads are larger. hex driver. est materials — and your driven, allowing the screw

WorldMags.net The sharp Type 17 auger point found on
most production screws enables the screw
to quickly penetrate most woods without
the need for a pre-drilled pilot hole.
and RSS™ screws; Outlaw or already-plated screws).

deck screws): A knurled Screws are plated and/or
shoulder just above the regu- coated for three reasons.
lar thread of the screw. 1. Prevent Corrosion
Reverse thread sec- Regular steel screws rust
tion (Starborn Cap-Tor xd quickly when exposed to
deck screws): A section of moisture. Plating not only
reversed thread just under helps keep the screw itself
the head of the deck screw from rusting, but prevents
helps prevent dimpling and rust that forms on the screw
mushrooming (raised area from staining the wood
around the screw head). A around it. The most common
similar reverse thread on plating on wood screws is
SPAX stainless steel wood bright zinc, largely a decora-
deck screws helps prevent tive finish that provides only
the screw from backing out a small amount of corrosion
shank to turn more easily as the lumber dries out. resistance. Zinc screws
while helping to increase Euro screw thread can develop a dull white
the clamping force between Melamine, particleboard, corrosion (“white rust”)
joined parts. Here are some and MDF are notorious for unless protected with a clear
of the newer thread designs their poor holding power coating or a colored chro-
and their intended advan- when joined with regular mate, such as yellow zinc.
tages: screws. In the 1970s, Ger- Bright golden yellow zinc
QuickCutter thread man hardware manufacturer screws have more corrosion
(Quickscrews production Hafele introduced Confirmat resistance than bright zinc,
screws): Deep threads and oversized screws specifically so this coating is common on
an extra-long flute above the for building ready-to- construction screws. Black
point. assemble Euro-style furni- oxide (black phosphorous)
Lead spiral thread ture and cabinets. Confirmat plating prevents steel screws
(Quickscrews Funnel head (or similar Firmit) fasteners from rust staining wood, but
screws): A spiral thread just act like threaded steel dow- offers little protection against
above the tip pulls the screw els, forming a strong, stiff serious corrosion.
into the wood quickly. butt joint between parts. Galvanizing processes,
Cross-cut thread (Power W-Cut™ thread (GRK RSS e.g., electroplating and hot
Pro outdoor wood screws): and Cabinet screws) and dipping, have traditionally
A dual thread design with a Serrated thread (Saber- provided screws with the best
standard outer thread and drive and SPAX screws): A protection against rust, but
an inner thread that helps saw-like serrated edge cut
reduce friction at the root of into the threads designed to
Modern screw thread designs (left
the screw. slice through wood like a cir- to right): QuickCutter, lead spiral,
Hi-Lo thread (Rockler cular saw blade. (See photo, cross-cut, Hi-Lo, CEE, reverse and
Hi-lo screws; Kreg® Hi-lo top of page 50.) Euro screw.
pocket-hole screws): A dual-
thread screw with a coarser, Plating and Coatings
sharper outer thread and a In the final step of manu-
finer inner thread. Creates facturing, most steel wood
a multipurpose screw that screws receive some kind
offers good holding power of plating (a metallurgical
and less strip-out in all woods process done to bare metal
and sheet goods. screws) or coating (applied
CEE™ thread (GRK R4™ to either bare metal screws

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resistance and come in four screws’ look works well with
colors (gray, green, red and contemporary style projects.
tan) to match treated lumber. To help hide fasteners
Climatek™: A GRK coating without counterboring and
consisting of six layers of plugging, some screws come
zinc and polymers; approved with heads coated with epoxy
for use with highly corrosive paint. White or sand (tan)
pressure-treated lumber. heads match the color of
HCR™: SPAX “high corro- white or almond melamine
sion resistance” screws have sheet material. Starborn’s
a dual barrier coating system HEADCOTE® stainless-steel
with an electrically applied screws have heads colored to
substrate and a proprietary match commonly used deck-
A serrated thread on a screw organic topcoat designed to ing lumber as well as PVC
reduces required driving torque modern deck and construc- extend the longevity of the and composite materials.
and splitting, and it allows the tion screws are also available screw even when used with 3. Reduce Friction
screw to develop and maintain
with high-tech coatings or treated lumber. The better the surface
high withdrawal strength.
plating/coating combinations Weather Maxx™ Bronze lubricity of a screw, the eas-
for outdoor environments: Ceramic Coat: Power Pro ier it is to drive and the less
Blue-Kote™ (Kreg pock- brand screws with multiple power it takes to drive it in.
et-hole screws): Blue screws layers of zinc and polymer- Slippery screws are also less
with three anti-corrosion based coatings. Recommend- likely to cam out, break or
layers; weather-resistant. ed for use with ACQ, CA and get stuck when they encoun-
NoCoRode PLUS Pro- CCA treated lumber, plus ter knots or dense grain.
Master wood screws (sold cedar and redwood where You can lubricate screws
by McFeely’s): almost 20 they won’t stain the wood. yourself by rubbing them
times more corrosion-resis- 2. Enhance Appearance with candle or beeswax
tant than standard yellow Other color choices are before driving them, but it’s
zinc plating; work well with available besides silvery much easier to buy screws
most outdoor woods. bright zinc. Brass-plated already treated with a
Epoxy Coated: Starborn’s screws mimic solid brass lubricating coating. Beren-
Deckfast® Epoxy Coated screws but are stronger and son coats both their plain
screws provide corrosion cost less. Black oxide plated and zinc-plated screws with
a thin wax coating, which
reduces friction and leaves
no residue. Square-X Drive
screws and Highpoint screws
have specially formulated
dry coatings that make
them easier to drive while
preventing surface corro-
sion (they’re recommended
for interior applications
only). For outdoor projects,
FastenMaster TrussLOK®
construction screws have an
anti-friction topcoat applied
over their corrosion-resistant
Metallic platings and
synthetic coatings provide epoxy coating.
wood screws with varying
degrees of protection against Sandor Nagyszalanczy is a
corrosion and staining the contributing editor to
wood they’re driven into.
Woodworker’s Journal.

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Preview
Leigh RTJ400 Router Table Dovetail Jig
by Chris Marshall
Leigh’s newest dovetailing jig solution produces up to a dozen dovetail and box joint
sizes with quick setups, foolproof repeatability and minimal fuss.
The RTJ400 provides an inverted configuration

compared with many typical dovetail jigs: you
steer the jig and workpiece over the bit rather
than balancing a handheld router on the jig.
S
ome dovetail jigs are written manual, I milled the Leigh’s refinements to the
www.woodworkersjournal.com frustrating to learn: six different glue-ready joints template principle include a
MORE ON THE WEB hours upon hours of you see on the facing page. number of standout features
For a quick video overview test cuts, multiple adjustment That included jig change- that set it apart from other
VIDEO of the Leigh RTJ400 Router variables to resolve and the overs, just two or three test router table-specific jigs of
Table Dovetail Jig, please visit sinking feeling that you’ll cuts per joint and no previous this sort, and those are key
have to repeat the laborious experience. Impressive. to its simple and repeatable
woodworkersjournal.com and click
setup process for every new The RTJ400’s basic design performance.
on “More on the Web” under the project. Ugh. isn’t altogether revolution- For one, Leigh has incorpo-
Magazine tab. Thank goodness Leigh is ary: it consists of an aircraft rated its patented cam style
making router dovetailing grade aluminum template “eBush” guide bushings into
substantially easier with the fashioned to mill pin slots this system. Sized for typical
new RTJ400 Jig I tried re- on one side and tails on the 13⁄16" router plate openings,
cently. In about an afternoon, other. That styling has been they have numeric index
and thanks to the clearly around for decades. But, marks that allow you to adjust

WorldMags.net
a loose- or tight-fitting joint by
simply twisting the base col-
lar left or right. Its elliptical
bushing widens or narrows
in .001" increments to help
dial in a perfect cutting width
for the template slots. Even
better, in most cases you can
make the first side of a joint,
then refine the fit of just the
mating piece by changing the
eBush setting, rather than
re-routing both parts.
Leigh has designed the ver-
tical fence portion to unclamp
from the template. Then, pin
locators under the end han-
dles fit into various holes and
slots on the template. Those Numeric indexing on Leigh’s “e10” eBush makes adjust- A pin under each handle enables the vertical fence
ing the fit of a joint’s mating parts as easy as twisting the to be repositioned in template holes to well-marked,
are well-marked and automat-
elliptical bushing left or right and re-routing one piece. automatic settings for various joint sizes and styles.
ically position the fence for
different joint setups. No trial action happens in front of
and error process here. This the jig, so you do need to
pin-and-slot index enables the lean forward to monitor your
jig to cut five sizes of through progress. Luckily, the stance
dovetails in two pitches, three doesn’t feel awkward.
sizes of half-blind dovetails The RTJ400 comes with
and four box/finger joints in four carbide bits, “e10” guide
workpieces up to 16" wide. bushing, other necessary
Be aware that the pin and supplies and a tutorial DVD
tail pattern produced by the for around $359. An accesso-
RTJ400 is regular — there’s ry kit ($175) provides nine
no variable spacing option. more bits, an “e7” bushing
Another handy feature and a 1/2" to 8 mm collet
is the side stops: when you reducer, in order to cut the
center a board over the jig’s full range of dovetail and
template to cut the first half box joint sizes.
of a joint and tighten the side
stop against it, that sets the Chris Marshall is Woodworker’s Stepped side stops position pin and tail boards accurately — very helpful
Journal’s senior editor. for half-blind dovetails where both joint parts are milled simultaneously.
mating board’s position, too.
It’s particularly useful for
half-blind dovetails — proba-
bly the trickiest router-made
joint to dial in well, because
the pins and tails are cut in
one operation.
Sturdy cam-action clamps
lock workpieces securely,
and a handle on each end of
the fence makes the jig stable
to move around your router
table top. While a “business-
end-down” jig like this has
gravity working in your favor
— no tippy router to steer
You can form both dovetails
and balance — the cutting
and box joints with this new
RTJ400 Jig from Leigh.
WorldMags.net 53
SmallWorldMags.net
Shop Journal
Translucent-Screen
Shutters
By Larry Okrend
These interior shutters let

in light but don’t compro-
mise privacy. They’re a
straightforward millwork
project with parts that can
be produced in quantity
and adjusted to fit various
sizes of window casings.
W
indows are meant to deliver
light into your home’s interior,
but they can also provide an
unwanted view into your home. That’s
why almost everyone wants and needs
some form of window covering in their
home (unless you live in the middle of
nowhere or don’t care about privacy). Al-
though window treatments vary greatly
in style and function, I think the best
kind are the ones that ensure privacy
while still letting in light — and ones
that you can make in your shop.
This interior shutter project has a lot
going for it, including excellent light
transmission that doesn’t compromise
privacy and simple modular construc-
tion. You can use almost any wood for
these shutters, but typically it’s best to
either match or complement your exist-
ing woodwork. I used vertical-grain pine
that has a naturally attractive ribbon
pattern and a medium ivory color. It’s
also easy to work and relatively inexpen-
sive. A translucent shoji-style fiberglass
material works well for the screen, but
there are a number of other materials
you can use (see final caption, page 62)
such as rice paper and plastic-coated
paper. Keep in mind that this is a mill-
work project, so it doesn’t require quite

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the high level of workmanship

you might devote to a furniture
project. The thickness and
width of the parts work for
most window sizes, so you only
need to adjust the length. For
very large windows, you might
want to scale up the size of the
parts or add more lattice strips
to the grid. The variations on
A Festool Domino is a quick way to make strong mortise-and- When assembling the frames, spread glue evenly
this project are almost infinite, tenon joints for the shutter frames. Dowels, plate-joining inside the mortises and on the tenons. A silicone
so you’ll likely want to add your biscuits and pocket-hole screws are good alternative brush works well here and can be easily cleaned
own special touches. joining methods. because glue won’t adhere to it.
Measure, Mill, Join Frames a plate joiner is just as fast and makes
You’ll need to start by measuring your acceptably strong joints. You can also
window casing and checking it for attain very good results with dowels or
square. Measure the exact opening, pocket-hole screws.
then subtract about a quarter inch from Once you’ve glued and clamped the
the sides and top/bottom to allow a little frames, you can sand them with 150-grit
room for swing clearance and space for paper. Be sure to ease the edges enough
the hinges. (Most carpentry isn’t as pre- so they won’t splinter, but don’t round
cise as your woodworking, so you may them too much. If your shutters are a
need to make some adjustments after matching pair like this project, mark
you assemble the frames.) For large the top edges with arrows that point to
windows or ganged windows, consider the front and inside stile edges. This
making bifold or multiple shutters to will serve to keep the shutters paired
span the area. and correctly oriented. Check the bare
Because this project lends itself to frames in the window casing to be sure
mass production, it’s best to mill the they fit with some room to spare and
frame parts for all the windows you make necessary adjustments. If the fit is
intend to cover before doing any joinery, too tight, trim the inside stile edges that
to ensure consistency. (Read on to learn form the closure between the shutters.
more about making the lattice strips.) A Now is as good a time as any to cut
jointer and planer are almost a necessity the translucent screen material. This
to achieve straight, square and uniform should be done before fastening any
stock. You might want to sand the parts lattice parts inside the frame because
lightly before you start the joinery. the bare frame serves as a pattern. The
There’s a lot of flexibility when it easiest way is to lay the frame on top of
comes to joinery. I used a Festool the screen material and trace around
Clamp the frames with even pressure applied
Domino to make floating mortise- the inside with a pencil; then use a metal on the center of the joints. Check for square by
and-tenon joints. This tool can quickly straightedge and a utility knife to cut measuring diagonally across the frame from
make strong, precise joints. However, the material. corner to corner with a tape measure.

Small Shop Journal continued
WorldMags.net
Photo at left: To use a band saw to make the 3/8”-square lattice strips, rip pieces slightly less than 1/2” wide from larger stock. (The piece shown
is roughly 2 x 2”.) Photo at right: Next, with the band saw fence at the same setting, make the second cut. Use a planer to clean up the strips and
mill them to exactly 3/8” square. You could also make the strips on a table saw, but there would be more waste, due to the wider saw blade kerf.
Make Lattice Strips and Router Jig strips to remove about 1/32" and then or self-adhesive abrasive strips to the
If there’s a fussy part of this project, a third and fourth pass on the opposite carriage bottom to prevent stock from
it’s making the lattice. The 3/8" x 3/8" sides for the final 3/8" dimension. The shifting. To ensure that the jig makes
lattice strips must be uniform, and the strips might not be perfectly square, accurate cuts, all the parts should be
half-lap joints that form the grid must be but the deviation with pieces this small square, the carriage bolt holes should
precisely made. There are a number of will be insignificant — try making a align perfectly in the base and router
ways to make the strips, but I’ve found few practice pieces first. (If your planer carriage, and the fence on the base
that using a band saw and a planer is won’t adjust down to 3/8", you can should be perpendicular to the slot in
efficient and it keeps waste and dust to make a sub-base out of particleboard or the router carriage. The fence should
a minimum. MDF to fit under the planer’s cutter- be the last piece you install because it’s
First, rip wide pieces from 3" or 4" head.) Make more pieces than you’ll dependent on how the base and router
stock roughly 7/16" thick. Next, rip need because you’ll unavoidably have carriage are aligned. Finally, run the
7/16"-square strips from these pieces. some ruined pieces. router into the fence with a 3/8" bit to
Now you need to remove the saw marks You can use a table saw to make the create an alignment mark.
and mill the strips to exactly 3/8" half-lap joints, but I think a router jig is
square. Run the strips through your more accurate and makes cleaner joints. Cut Half-lap Joints
planer making four total passes: the The router jig (see Drawing, page 58) is There are several tips that can increase
first two on perpendicular sides of the simple and easy to make with MDF or your success in cutting the half-lap
particleboard and a joints. You should cut all the strips
few bits of hardware. to the exact length before you cut
There are two basic the joints. Use the shutter frames to
parts: the base and determine the fit, and you might want
the router carriage. to make dedicated sets of strips for each
The base has a thin frame in case there are slight dimen-
hardboard fence sional differences.
attached to it to Once you cut the strips, use masking
align to workpieces tape to gang them together with the
so they’re perpen- ends perfectly flush. Mark the joint
dicular to the router locations in pencil, and then scribe the
carriage. The router joint lines with a utility knife. This will
carriage is adjust- help prevent any chipping or tearout
able for different from the router. When you place the
The lap-joint jig (see Drawing, page 58) stock thickness with ganged strips in the jig, be sure they’re
allows you to gang-cut the lattice dadoes. the carriage bolts abutting the fence, that the joint lines
Tape the strips together and then mark the and should be made correspond with the router alignment
joint positions. Place the strips against to fit your router (or mark on the fence and that the carriage
the hardboard fence and align the marked
at least the guide bolts are securely tightened. Also, place
joint with the cutout in the fence from a previous router pass. (The router
carriage has been removed for photo clarity. Also, note the self-adhesive rails positioned for an extra piece of lattice to the outside of
abrasive strips on the bottom of the router carriage that prevent the your router’s base).
workpieces from slipping. Use sandpaper to make your own.) Adhere sandpaper Continues on page 58 ...

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MATERIAL LIST (Jig)

TxWxL
1 Base (1) 3/4" x 203⁄4" x 22"

2 Fence (1) 1/4" x 21⁄2" x 22"

3 Frame Sides (2) 3/4" x 2" x 191⁄2"
4 Frame Ends (2) 3/4" x 2" x 101⁄2"
5 Frame Bases (2) 3/4" x 5" x 18"
6 Guide Rails (2) 3/4" x 2" x 18"
7 Self-adhesive Abrasive (2) 21⁄2" x 19"
8 Carriage Bolts (4) 4" x 1/4"-20

9 Washers (4) 3/8"

10 Wingnuts (4) 1/4"-20
The inward facing lattice grid (the side that

faces into the room) is permanently attached to
the frame. Establish the grid’s 1/8” setback with
a combination square and pencil.
Use a plunge router and 3/8” straight bit to cut the dadoes in the lattice strips. Set the fences in the
router carriage to work with your router’s base. In this case, twisting the router between the fences Use a pin nailer to attach the vertical perimeter
produced the least amount of friction and the best stability and accuracy. strips first, then the horizontal strips. There’s
no need to glue the strips, and it’s unnecessary
the ganged pieces to help balance the provides visual balance when the shut- to fill the pin-nail holes because they’re
height of the router carriage. ters are open. almost invisible.
Rout the joints with a 3/8" straight bit Begin by marking the 1/8" setback
and make the cuts in two passes while guidelines for the front lattice inset
keeping the router pressed against the with a combination square and pencil.
guide rails. Work carefully and don’t Before you start, make a dry run to
force the router through the cut. Use ensure the grid strips fit properly in
dust collection if your router has it. It the frame. The strips don’t need to be
will enable you to see the start and stop glued; pin nails provide all the needed
of the cut much more easily. fastening. The holes made by the nails
are so small, they’re almost invisible
Assemble the Lattice and don’t need to be filled. Attach the Continue the grid assembly with the inside ver-
tical strips and, finally, the two inside horizontal
You’ll assemble the front lattice in the vertical lattice strips to the stiles, then
strips. Glue these joints together and use small
frame and the rear lattice as a stand- the horizontal ones to the rails. Now clamps if needed. Assemble the rear grids as
alone unit. The rear lattice acts as a stand-alone units; just be sure they fit into the
retainer for the screen material and Continues on page 60 ... frames easily.

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Small Shop Journal continued www.woodworkersjournal.com
WorldMags.net MORE ON THE WEB
VIDEO
For a video on using the jig
to form the lattices, please
visit woodworkersjournal.com and
each side. Three or more hinges
click on “More on the Web” under
can cause binding and complicate
installation. It’s important that the the Magazine tab.
screw holes are perfectly centered
to keep the hinges aligned. I used 6
a self-centering Insty-Drive bit for 1
this purpose. Remove the hinges 4
before finishing.
4
Shutter Sceen
(Front View)

The rear grid serves as a retainer for the trans-
lucent screen material and needs to be fastened
to the front grid with brass screws. Bore pilot
holes and countersinks for the screws in the
4 9
four intersections inside the grid.
3 7
5

3
5
5

Next, install the brass screws in each hole to
set the threads. You might want to use steel
screws of the same size because they’re less
likely to break. 4

you can add the inside vertical strips
with a little glue in the joints followed
9
by the horizontal strips.
The rear lattice goes together the
same way with glue in all the joints,
2
but it’s not permanently attached to 6
the frame. You just need to check that MATERIAL LIST*
it fits flush over the front grid and isn’t TxWxL
too large (or small) for the frame. To 1 Top Rails (2) 1" x 2" x 97⁄8" Exploded View
fasten the front and rear grids together, 2 Bottom Rails (2) 1" x 21⁄2" x 97⁄8"
you need to bore screw holes and 3 Stiles (4) 1" x 13⁄4" x 431⁄4"
countersinks for #4 x 5/8" brass screws 4 Horizontal Lattice Strips (16) 3/8" x 3/8" x 97⁄8"
through the rear grid into the four 5 Vertical Lattice Strips (16) 3/8" x 3/8" x 383⁄4"
inside grid intersections. Install the
6 Domino Tenons** (8) 8 x 50 mm
screws to cut the threads before you
7 Translucent Screens (2) 97⁄8" x 383⁄4"
finish and assemble the shutters.
8 Brass Screws (8) #4 x 5/8"
With the grids completed, now is a
good time to set the hinge positions. 9 Shutter Hinges (2 pr.) 3" Non-Mortise Butt Hinges
The shutter hinges have removable *The length of all pieces is dependent on the window frame size.
**Dominos can be substituted with plate-joining biscuits or 3/8"-dia. dowels.
pins so they work on the left or right
side. Unless your shutters are very
large or heavy, stick with two hinges on Continues on page 62 ...

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and click on the “Store” tab. Or, call 800-610-0883 (code WJ1577).
color of the wood was appealing the opposing shutter and can align the
without alteration. For a smooth pair. If the shutters are a little twisted
finish, sand lightly with 320-grit in the frame, you can try moving one of
The screen hinges don’t require mortising and they have paper between coats to remove the hinges slightly out to compensate.
removable pins, so they can be mounted on either the left
or right side. Use a self-centering bit to ensure that the
dust nibs. And if the gap where the shutters meet
screw holes are perfectly centered. Remove the hinges Once the finish has cured, isn’t even, use a shim behind the hinge
before applying finish. install the screen material. The leaf. When the shutters seem reason-
fiberglass shoji that I used is stiff ably well aligned, install the rest of the
Finish, Assemble, Install Shutters enough so that no glue, tape or staples screws. I installed a magnetic touch
Sand the assemblies with 150-grit were needed to retain it in the frame. latch to retain the shutters. It elimi-
paper and be sure to ease all sharp But you might need to fasten thin paper nates the need for knobs to open and
edges. There’s no need to sand too screen to the back of the front grid if close the shutters to maintain a clean
much or with a finer grit paper — the it doesn’t stay put. Install the rear grid appearance.
finish will hide many imperfections. over the screen and install the brass If you’re like me, once you’ve built a
Thoroughly clean off all the dust be- screws; then reinstall the hinges. few of these shutters you’ll want to make
fore applying finish. Installing the shutters isn’t difficult, more sets for other rooms in your home.
Because the shutters are next to but there a few steps you can take to re- They’ll help keep your rooms light and
windows, they’re exposed to more duce any possible frustration. Use a thin airy even on the most dreary days.
light and temperature variations than spacer between the window casing and
other woodwork in your home. A film the shutter to eliminate the possibility of Larry Okrend is the former editor of HANDY
magazine.
finish will help reduce seasonal wood binding. The hinges also have a slotted
movement and protect the wood from hole to allow for
wear and tear. I brushed on two coats vertical adjustment,
of a clear waterborne interior finish and so use only this hole
opted not to stain because the natural until you’ve installed
The author bought Synskin

fiberglass shoji material
from tapplastics.com; you
can also find paper, vinyl
or fiberglass options at
Before finishing, check the fit of the screen material and trim if necessary. decorativefilm.com or
There’s no need to glue or staple the material to the grid: the rear grid and Water-star Chinese rice
screws will retain it securely. paper at amazon.com.

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Precision, Adaptability
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he Bandy Clamp
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are priced at $19.99 a pair. non-slip and cushion grip PRS1015), the Precision
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The OLFA® line of utility or auto-lock mechanisms, and and the Multi-Purpose Shop
knives is manufactured by blade options that include a Stand (item KRS1035) into
a family-owned Japanese 25mm saw blade manufac- one system (item PRS1045),
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aftermath of World War II, to tool steel with a 59˚ edge an- nents are also available for
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The 90-040M1 12" Wood
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Woodworking Tools
WorldMags.net & Supplies Index
August 2015
For product information in the blink of an
eye, visit www.woodworkersjournal.com
and click on “Woodworker’s Marketplace”
under the Tools & Supplies tab.
ADVERTISER Page No. Web Address ADVERTISER Page No. Web Address
1-800-BunkBed 9 www.1800bunkbed.com/wj Howard Products, Inc. 17 www.howardproducts.com
3M 7, 9 www.3M.com Jantz Supply 7 www.knifemaking.com
Abrasive Resource 17 www.abrasiveresource.com JDS Company 25 www.jdstools.com
American Fabric Filter Co. 65 www.americanfabricfilter.com Jitterbug 59 www.jitterbugdirect.com
Armor Crafts 9 www.armorplans.com Lignomat 57 www.lignomat.com
Badger Hardwoods of WI, Ltd. 9 www.badgerwood.com www.moistureproblems.info
Briwax 15 www.briwax.com MDHearingAid 7, 63 www.mdhearingaid.com
CMT USA Inc. 67 www.cmtusa.com Next Wave Automation 13 www.nextwaveautomation.com
DR Burn Cage 11 www.burncage.com Osborne Wood Products, Inc. 3, 9, 21 www.woodencomponents.com
DR Trimmer/Mower 65 www.drtrimmers.com Preval 21 www.preval.com
Epilog Laser 3, 67 www.epiloglaser.com/wwj Rockler Woodworking
Fisher Forge LLC 67 www.fisherforge.com and Hardware 57, 75 www.rockler.com
Gorilla Glue 11 www.gorillatough.com SENCO 5 www.senco.com
Granberg International 7 www.granberg.com Titebond 2 www.titebond.com
Grex Power Tools 57 www.grextools.com Triton Precision Power Tools 21 www.tritontools.com
Grizzly Industrial, Inc. 3 www.grizzly.com Varathane 76 www.staining123.com
Harbor Freight Tools 51 www.harborfreight.com West Penn Hardwoods 9 www.westpennhardwoods.com
Hawk Woodworking Tools 61 hawkwoodworkingtools.com Woodworkers Source 9 www.101woods.com

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Finishing Thoughts
WorldMags.net
Water-based coatings are
becoming more popular, and
Water-based there are good reasons why.
Coatings Manufacturers have kept
what was good but fixed a
By Michael Dresdner
host of old problems.
to apply them. and, in some cases, even

We’ll also look improved resistance to abra-
in on some of the sion. There’s also a wider
newer offerings in range of materials available,
the field. with new items that make
the whole finishing expe-
What’s Different rience more pleasant and
The original water- varied. (More on that later
based coatings were in this article.)
difficult to brush and
spray, and did not What’s the Same
flow out well. They From the beginning, water-
were very sensitive based had some advantages,
to even the slightest and they’re still there.
surface contamination, Water-based coatings are
and demanded near ideal nonflammable, low odor,
temperature and humidity contain fewer hazardous
controls during application solvents, dry faster and have
and cure. To make matters a higher solids content. Why
worse, the final coats were the first three are advanta-
C
lear water-based often less durable than geous is pretty self-evident,
finishes have been many of their solvent-borne but the other two deserve a
around since 1980, counterparts. In short, they closer look.
but lately they’ve been were harder to work with Faster drying means that
gaining converts, with and sometimes left a poorer you may be able to finish a
some 50% of woodworkers final finish. project completely in one
saying they now use them. Thanks to some interesting weekend, something that
Why the change? additives, the new generation means a lot to those of us
To be honest, when of finishes go on and flow who only have limited wood-
water-based clear lacquers out much better. Those same shop time. Pair water-based
and polyurethanes first came additives make the coating stains and glazes with water-
on the market, they had lots less sensitive to contamina- based topcoats, and drying
Michael Dresdner of problems. Many of those tion and give them better and handling times plummet
is a nationally known finishing issues have now been solved, adhesion when applied over from days to hours. You’ll
expert. He shares his expertise on and some new finish options oil-based stains and sealers. wait less after staining and
the DVD The Way to Woodwork: have been added, making Along with better adhesion between topcoats.
Step-by-Step to a Perfect Finish, water-based a much more en- comes better films. Expect Higher solids is a less
available through the store at ticing alternative. Let’s look more durability across the obvious advantage. The
woodworkersjournal.com. at what’s changed, what’s board, with higher resistance solids content is the amount
the same, and the best ways to water, heat and chemicals, of finish that remains on

WorldMags.net
On the maple board above, you see the dramatic difference between a finish with
water-based polyurethane (left side) or oil-based polyurethane product (on the right).
the surface, as opposed to Unlike solvent finishes,

Contact us
the amount of solvent that water-based coatings do
with your finishing
evaporates off. For instance, not look particularly good
most solvent-based lacquer when wet, but they flow out questions by writing to
is shot at below 20% solids considerably during drying. Woodworker’s Journal,
after thinning. That means That’s especially true when 4365 Willow Drive,
for each coat you spray on, spraying. While wet, you’ll Medina, MN 55340,
less than one fifth of it re- see dramatic orange peel,
or by emailing us at:
mains to form a finish, with but don’t try to “fix” that by
finishing@woodworkersjournal.com.
all the rest evaporating. Wa- spraying heavier. Stop and
ter-based coatings typically wait, and it will eventually Please include your
have solids contents almost flow out far smoother than address, phone number
twice as high, so they tend to you expect. and email address (if you
build faster. I still prefer using a paint have one) with your thoughts
Then there’s the color, pad on large, flat surfaces,
or questions.
which can be either a boon either vertical or horizon-
or a bust. Most water-based tal. A paint pad has a huge
topcoats dry water clear, as application surface compared A paint pad provides a larger surface than
a brush for applying water-based finish —
opposed to the amber hue of to a brush, and it’s easier
it’s easier to apply a smooth, thin layer.
most solvent- and oil-based to lay down a
coatings. That can be an smooth, thin layer
advantage when you want to quickly. When you
keep light woods from turn- must resort to a
ing yellow. Of course, you brush or foam-on-
can always tint the coating a-stick applicator,
with amber dye, so you can be gentle. Flow
get the best of both worlds. rather than scrub
to avoid foaming
Application Techniques — those tiny air
Good application techniques bubbles that get
still make a big difference, trapped in the
and rule number one is to finish. If you work
apply it sparingly. Because quickly, you’ll now
of how water-based coatings have more work-
cure, you’ll get much better
results applying a coat that
The easiest way to apply
is just barely uniformly wet.
any stain, including the
Don’t pile it on; go for thin water-based variety, is
but evenly wet. Once it’s on, to flood it on liberally,
be patient. and wipe it off evenly.

Finishing Thoughts continued
WorldMags.net
ing time to blend and even
up the coat. If you’re curious,
my favorite bristle brush
For spraying water-based finishes, the Titan
options are Purdy’s Chinex®
Gravity Feed HVLP Spray Gun (above and
or Syntox™ brushes. left) works if you have a compressor that
will handle a conversion gun. If you don’t,
Spraying or want a freestanding option, you might try
When spraying, use a small the Earlex Spray Station 5500 (at far left).
fluid aperature (1 mm or
slightly larger) and
spray sparingly, until Color Add-ons
the entire surface is You’ll see a lot more
just barely wet. Use a water-based pigment
good quality gun that and combination stains and Pearl Effects
lets you control both available than ever be- (pearlescent colors) are
the fluid and air flows, fore, and they can be either thicker versions of stain that
and hold the gun a tad wiped on and off, or sprayed can be used on raw wood or
closer to the wood on. Dye stains, pre-mixed and in between coats of finish
(6" vs. 8"), especially ready to use, apply the same to create shading, antiquing
with HVLP or LVLP way, but without the mess of and special effects. Then
guns. With standard mixing and the fear of colors there’s their Enduro-Var
compressed-air guns, that don’t match from batch water-based polyurethane
dial the pressure to batch. All can be inter- varnish, which is the closest
back a bit so the finish mixed to create custom col- thing to “old world” oil var-
lays out gently rather than ors and can be added in small nish you can find in a faster
smacks onto the surface. amounts to clear coatings to drying water-based mode.
Oh, and clean the guns (and make tinting lacquers. Bottom line? If you haven’t
brushes) immediately and Some of the more entic- already done so, maybe it’s
thoroughly with soap and ing new offerings are from time to take another look at
water or, better yet, propri- General Finishes. Their water-based coatings.
etary cleaning solvents. Glaze Effects (solid color)
Hold an HVLP or LVLP spray gun

about 6” from the piece when
spraying water-based finishes.
Water-based dye stains can

be mixed to create custom
colors. Here, a 2:1 ratio of
General Finishes Orange
to Medium Brown creates
an appropriate color on
mahogany for Greene and
Greene style pieces.

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HEYDid You Know?
WorldMags.net
Woodworking trivia: a forest of facts
Bodgers were itinerant woodworkers who
set up in forests where they cut, hewed, shaped
and turned green wood on-site, making chair
PIKWERHWXVIXGLIVWXSFIWSPHMRFYPO8LIMV
tools included the shaving horse and drawknife,
WE[WE\IWERHTSPIPEXLI%XEPIRXIHFSHKIV
could make upwards of 12 dozen (144) legs
ERHWXVIXGLIVWMREHE]EPP[MXLSYXTS[IVXSSPW
And the award for most ornate

goes to … Coachmaker’s planes, like
What Does It All Mean? the one pictured at left, are among
A quick guide to terms from the the most unusually shaped hand
world of woodworking. TPERIW6EXLIVXLERGYXXMRKÀEXW
many were used to shape the
complex contours in fancy coaches.
Dimensional Lumber: Wood
building material cut to standard
sizes, both in width and thickness,
such as a 2x4, and sold in various
Lignum Vitae (Latin for “wood of
lengths
life”) is extremely hard and so dense
Hardwood: Any lumber from a MX[SR·XÀSEX8LI[SSHVIQEMRW
deciduous tree
self-lubricating both in and out of
Shaving Horse: A combination

water, and therefore has been used
photos courtesy of Lignum-Vitae-Bearings.com

bench and seat for carving; a as wet bearings (as seen at right) on
movable end piece is held with the HEQXYVFMRIWWYFQEVMRIWERHWLMTW-X
foot to clamp a workpiece in place,
has also been used as belaying pins,
freeing both hands
British police truncheons, mortars and
pestles — even the neck wood of the
PEXI4IXI7IIKIV·WFERNS
Submit your Your Trivia Test:

own trivia ... QWhat wood has been
Send in a curious fact about
your favorite topic and ours:
instrumental in keeping Navy
woodworking. If it is selected submarines running silent?
for use, you will win an
awesome prize! The wood bearings were very quiet
Father Chrysanthos of Etna, California, will receive a
Submit your Trivia to Woodworker’s
cently displaced by space-age substances.
SENCO FinishPro 23SXP 23-ga. Headless Pinner,
Journal, Dept. Trivia, 4365 Willow Drive,
used in propeller shaft bearings until re-
1 Gallon Finish & Trim Air Compressor (model
Medina, MN 55340. Or send us an email:
Seawater naturally lubricates lignum vitae,
PC1010N) and pack of 23-ga. Pins (item A101009) for
Answer
trivia@woodworkersjournal.com having his contribution selected for the Trivia page.

Edge clamping
WorldMags.net is about
to get a whole lot easier
Rockler Bandy Clamp™

(54258) $19.99/pair
The new Bandy Clamp™ quickly and easily applies pressure to edge molding
without marring the piece or the finish. The built-in rubber band
stretches over the molding, while the large clamp pads securely hold
everything in place while the glue dries. Your assembly times will be faster
than ever before, allowing you to get more done in the shop. Bandy Clamp: the
latest Rockler innovation to help you Create with Confidence.
Materials code 642
For a store near you or free catalog:

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TODAY’S WOOD SCREW TECHNOLOGY: SURPRISING DETAILS (p.

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FOR WHEN SMALL DETAILS MATTER

8 Letters 22 Woodturning 64 What’s in Store

18 Shop Talk 52 Tool Preview

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A Band saws with a

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The sword hilt is shown

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Woodworker’s Journal August 2015 WorldMags.net 23

24 WorldMags.net August 2015 Woodworker’s Journal

Introducing the Woodworker’s Journal

ORDER YOURS Woodworker’s Journal

Woodworker’s Journal August 2015 WorldMags.net 25

Here’s an inexpensive, easy and super-accurate way to align your crosscut

triangle to the saw kerf in the

26 WorldMags.net August 2015 Woodworker’s Journal

Woodworker's Journal 2015 08

Woodworker's Journal 2015 08

Making the Frames

A.J. Hamler is the former editor of Woodshop

MATERIAL LIST (Jig)