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Spinning, Knitting, Embroidery -

What you can do in this way Calculation of an arm ball with the
Pythagorean theorem

The first thing you need is an

armhole:
I always make it between 20 and 22
start page cm high . For larger sizes, it can also
be 25 cm, in men sizes 30 cm.
Over... (Because I always make a shoulder
slope (2 cm), resulting from the
archive bottom of the armhole 22-24 cm to
the top edge).
Hubertus dishcloth The depth of the section is calculated
by measuring my shoulder width. I do
Pythagoras arm ball this on the outer edge of the pointed
bone, which protrudes from the
Felt bags shoulder up there, for example, it is
36 cm. A front or back part is with me
Blogs and links 45-47 cm wide, so I take on both sides
each 4.5-5.5 cm away.
Net-Along Most are 10-12 stitches, which are
then spelled out as follows. In each
My granny 2nd row 1x3, 2x2, 3x1 (and in every
4th row 2x1) stitches. The armhole is
imprint ready.

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Guest book When the

front and
Contact back are
done,
you can
calculate
Subscribe to the arm
ball .
First, it's
about the
cut in
cm . For
this
Left measure
the

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the edge
of the
Photos of my works armhole,
as in the
drawing,
Arm ball guide
and call
this
Textile TV program value c.

[Example: I measured 25 cm edge length in my sweater]

*******

It should also be known how wide the sleeve is just before the
start of the arm ball. The half this width will be named a.
[In the example, this was 19 cm, half of 38 cm.]

Now you have to use the Pythagorean theorem, which applies to

any right triangle.
a² + b² = c².
a and c are known. b is interested in us, the height of the arm
ball.
By transforming
b² = c²-a²
and extracting roots
b = √ (c²-a²)
you get the formula, in which you can use the numbers.
******* [In the example we get for the unknown b = √ (25²-19²) = √
(625-361) = √264 = 16,248 ..., ie 16 cm. The arm ball should
therefore be 16 cm high.] Now you have to calculate the
number of rows on the basis of the mesh sample . [In the
example, a mesh of 23 stitches produced x 30 rows → 48 rows.]
Because you decrease in every 2 rows, you will have half as
many declines as rows to form the curve. This curve should - as
in the drawing - have the property that it rises gently, getting
steeper and then slowly flat again. That means you have to
chain off more, then less, then less and less, then more and
more stitches every other row.

In addition, one should end up at the end of a certain number of

stitches at once and finish the sleeve with it. In my experience,
the 8-12 stitches at needle size 3-4, of course, more or less
depending on needle size and resulting mesh size. As a rule of
thumb, you can, for example, take 14%.

[In my example I have 84 stitches at the beginning of the arm

ball, 14% of which are 12 stitches.]

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The difference between the number of stitches at the beginning
and the (for example) 12 at the end you have to decrease.
Because the decreases are symmetric, [In the example: 84-12
stitches = 72 stitches, ie 36 stitches per side. These stitches
must now be removed in 48 rows.]

Now comes pure empiricism. I usually begin with 1x4 stitches

and several times 2 stitches, then for a while only one stitch,
then several times 2 stitches, at the end 4 stitches.
[This resulted in following instructions: Slimming in every 2nd
row: 1x4, 3x2, 16x1, 3x2, 1x4 stitches, then the last 12
stitches. So 36 stitches taken in 48 rows. ]
Voilà!

But beware! If you use very thin needles, the arm ball can
sometimes be very many rows high, so you have to go in the
middle of the decreases to chain every 4 rows a stitch. Even if
you place value on very well fitting sleeves, the arms are very
steep.

As you can see on the drawing above, the "wavy" weight loss
automatically results in a longer distance than the previously
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measured c. So the curved line between A and B is a bit longer.
blog for free at [For me it was instead of 25 cm whole 30 cm]
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But that's just right and good, because you sewed such sleeves
in the upper third something "complied", so that the ball is
actually somewhat spherical.

Have fun!

August 2010

The Anti-Pythagoras

Finally! Long awaited, now available.

I had faked myself with my Pythagoras, but I am remorseful
and do that well. Because what you get with complicated
addition and root pull maneuvers, can also be displayed in a
single picture without much words:

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Man bekommt den Abstand ab Beginn der Armkugel bis oben.

Hier sind es zum Beispiel 13 cm. Das kann man auch einfach
abmessen und dank der Elastizität der Strickerei passt das dann
schon. Wichtig ist, dass man sich die Ränder an der unteren
Kante des Armausschnitts fixiert denkt (oder mal schnell mit
Sicherheitsnadeln fixiert), damit auch die Ärmellänge am
Handgelenk in Ordnung ist.

Komplizierter ist eigentlich die Kurve der Abnahmen, die nun

notwendig ist. Das ist das eigentliche Problem.
Here, for example, I have 88 stitches and I want to end up with
12, say. Now I have to determine the required number of rows
for the missing 13 cm and grading the declines for the arm ball
nice, for example, 44 rows, then I have 1x4, 1x3, 3x2, 12x1,
3x2, 1x3, 1x4 and the remaining 12 stitches ausketten.
So!
s

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