Sergers Skill

28
Serging Skills
Objective
Summarize how the serger functions.
© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.
How the Serger Functions
• Sergers provide a factory-like finish to

home-sewn garments
• Also called overlock or overedge
machines
• In one step, sergers
– join two layers of fabric to form a seam
– trim extra seam allowance
– and overcast fabric edges
continued
• Sergers cannot be used

for all sewing tasks
• Most sergers only stitch
on fabric edges and not
inside areas
© BERNINA of America, Inc.
continued
• Newer machines have stitches similar

to regular sewing machine stitches but
cannot embroider, make buttonholes, or
insert zippers
• Most home sewers use the serger to
supplement—not replace—a
conventional sewing machine
continued
• Advantages of using a serger

– Works well on fabrics from lightweight
chiffon to heavyweight denim, as well as knit
and woven fabrics
– Make doing hems and ruffles quick and easy
– Give a professional seam finish to garments
such as unlined jackets, curtains, place
mats, and other items
continued
• A serger uses two, three,

four, or five cones of
thread depending on
the model
• It uses one, two, or
even three needles
• Instead of bobbins, it has
upper and lower loopers © Dmitry Kalinovsky/Shutterstock
that form the stitch

continued
• A serger loops thread around the needle

thread, encasing the fabric edge (a
sewing machine creates stitches by
interlocking bobbin and needle threads)
• Looper threads do not penetrate the fabric
• The needles and loopers form stitches
over the fabric edge as it passes through
• During stitching, knife blades trim the
seam allowances
continued
• A serger performs many functions at the

same time to create the stitches
– As you feed fabric into the machine, it
reaches the feed dogs first
– As fabric moves along, the knives trim
the edge
– Then loopers and needles form the stitches
on the fabric
– Fabric then feeds off the stitch finger behind
the needle
continued
• A serger runs much faster than a

conventional sewing machine
• Using a serger can reduce the sewing
time of a project by as much as half
Think About It
© Levent Konuk/Shutterstock
Why does using a serger reduce the time

needed to sew a garment?
Objective
Identify serger machine parts and

basic serger stitches.
Serger Machine Parts
• Although there are a variety of types

and models of sergers, they have
many similarities
• The instruction manual for a serger
identifies the parts of the machine and
the function of each
Basic Serger Stitches
• Serger stitches vary with machine

make and model
• Aside from common stitches, sergers
can produce decorative stitches for an
interesting look and extra emphasis
Overedge Stitch
• Overedge stitch
is used solely as
an edge finish on
garments
• Uses one needle
and one looper © BERNINA of America, Inc.
• Can prevent raveling in sheer

and lightweight fabrics
• Least bulky stitch
Flatlock Stitch
• Flatlock stitch
uses one needle
and one looper to
join a seam; a three-
thread stitch uses
two loopers © BERNINA of America, Inc.
• Used in sportswear or lingerie

elastic application
• Seam is visible from right side of garment
Rolled Edge Stitch
• Rolled edge stitch

creates a rolled
hem; seaming for
sheers, laces, or silk
• Use to stitch narrow
rolled hems to finish
scarves, ruffles, etc. © BERNINA of America, Inc.
• Use three-thread machines for light- to

medium-weight
Overlock Stitch
• Overlock stitch
is a three-, four-, or
five-thread stitch
• Core serger stitch
• Stitches, trims, and © BERNINA of America, Inc.
overedges a seam in one operation

• Suitable for a wide variety of weights
and types of fabric
Cover Stitch
• Cover stitch is a
stretchable stitch
mainly used for
hemming knits
• One looper thread
interlocks all the
needle threads
• Does not use
cutting blade
Chain Stitch
• Chain stitch does not

overlock fabric edge
• Functions as a standard
straight stitch when
cutting knives are
disengaged
• Top side looks like a
straight stitch; underside © BERNINA of America, Inc.
resembles a chain
Objective
Summarize how to select thread and

accessories for the serger.
Selecting Thread and
Accessories
• Special serger threads are available on
cones or tubes
• Advantages of serger threads include
– fineness for delicate finishing and less bulk
– strength
– cross-winding for smooth top feeding
during high-speed sewing
– larger quantities
– economy
continued
Accessories
• The cone adapter is used when the

thread is on a cone
continued
Accessories
• Place a spool cap
(or unreeling disk) over
the spool to provide
even feeding of thread
continued
Accessories
• Some slippery or
specialty threads
require the use of a
thread net that helps
prevent thread tangling
Objective
Demonstrate how to thread and

operate the serger, adjusting thread
tensions and stitches as needed.
Threading the Serger
• Follow the directions in the owner’s

manual provided with your serger
• Many machines are marked with a
color-coded threading guide
• Thread the loopers and needles in the
correct order; otherwise, the threads may
break or stitches may not form properly
continued
Threading the Serger
• Always thread the loopers before the

needles—the upper looper first
• Each time you change thread, you can
tie threads from the new spools to the
old threads to save time
Operating the Serger
1. Set all tension dials

to 5 (or as directed by
the instruction manual)
2. Make sure the upper
knife is lowered and in
the cutting position
3. Lower the presser foot
© Alex Hinds/Shutterstock
continued
4. Holding the thread chain or tails lightly

behind the presser foot, serge a
2- to 3-inch thread chain; this is called
chaining off
5. Place the fabric in front of the presser
foot where the longer feed dogs will
pull the fabric forward; do not push or
pull the fabric
continued
6. At the end of the seam, continue sewing

to form a 3-inch thread chain; do not
raise the presser foot
continued
7. Holding the fabric in one hand, pull the

thread chain over the thread cutter on
the presser foot shank
Adjusting Thread Tension
• Thread tensions may need to be adjusted

for changes in fabrics, threads,
stitch type
• A serger has a tension regulator for
each thread
• To make tension adjustments, turn the
dial by only half or one number; test sew
and check the results
Adjusting Stitch Length
and Width
• When fabrics, threads, or stitches are
changed, the stitch length and width may
need to be adjusted
• Use shorter, narrower stitches for
lightweight fabrics
• Use longer, wider stitches for
heavyweight fabrics
continued
and Width
• Length of the stitch is
distance in millimeters
(mm) between needle Stitch
width
penetrations
• Width of the stitch is length
Stitch
distance in millimeters
between the needle
thread and the trimmed
edge of the fabric
continued
and Width
• To change the length of the stitch, use
the stitch length adjustment dial
• To change the width of the stitch, some
sergers have an adjustable dial; other
sergers may require a change in the
needle plate
Objective
Demonstrate proper use of a serger to

construct a garment.
Using a Serger in Clothing
Construction
• A serger can be used three ways
One-Step Method
• Seams are stitched, trimmed, and

overcast all at one time by the serger
• Needle stitches on the seam line
• Knives automatically trim the correct
amount
Edge Finish Method
• Garment’s raw seam edges are

finished with the serger
• Garment is then stitched together with
a sewing machine
continued
Edge Finish Method
• Recommended when fit is uncertain

and for tailored garments sewn from
wools, linens, and silk
• Using the continuous overcasting
technique can save time
Narrow Double-Stitched
Seam Method
• Creates a narrow double-stitched seam
• Ideal for light- to medium-weight woven
fabrics or knit fabrics
• Use to reinforce areas of stress in
a garment
continued
Narrow Double-Stitched
Seam Method
1. Standard 5/8-inch
seam is stitched using
a sewing machine (two
lines of stitching are
shown to the right)
2. Seam allowances are
serged together (with
needle 1/8 inch from
the first line of stitching) © Frank Zosky, Photographer
Mock Flat-Felled Seam
• Mock flat-felled seam uses both the

conventional sewing machine and
the serger
• Useful with denim and other heavyweight
woven fabrics
continued
1. Stitch a standard seam with right sides

together using the sewing machine
2. Using a serger, overlock the seam
allowances together, trimming slightly
3. Press seam allowances toward one side
continued
4. Using a sewing machine, topstitch from

the right side next to the seam line
5. Topstitch again 1/4 inch away from the
first topstitching line through all layers
Think About It
Which two methods of using a serger in
clothing construction require the use of a
sewing machine as well?
© OfiPlus/Shutterstock © Levent Konuk/Shutterstock
Selecting a Pattern
• Many commercial patterns are designed

specifically for serger sewing, but the
serger can be used to sew a garment
from any pattern to some degree
• Since sergers trim seam allowances as
they sew, they are often used to sew
loose, unfitted, knitted garments that do
not require precise fitting
Transferring Pattern
Markings
• Mark garment pattern pieces with a
water-soluble or air-erasable marking
pen or tailor’s chalk
• Don’t use notches because stitching
with a serger removes them
Fit Before You Sew
• Be sure to fit before you sew

• Once a seam is stitched, the seam
allowance is trimmed away
Construction Order
• Best way to assemble a serged garment

is to use the flat method of construction
• With this method, you sew flat pieces
rather than pieces in the round
• For example, you finish necklines,
armholes, sleeves, and hems before
serging underarm and side seams
Think About It
© Thomas M Perkins/Shutterstock
List the steps you would take in constructing

a T-shirt using this method.
Objective
Demonstrate how to serge various

types of seams.
Serging Seams
• Sewing seams with a serger is fast

and easy
• The type of seam you choose depends
on the garment design, type of fabric,
and durability desired
• You need to know how to serge curves
and corners and how to begin and end
a seam
Overlock Seam
• Basic overlock seam is made using

three or four threads
• Suitable for woven fabrics; ideal for
knits because seams stretch
• Seam allowance is cut off as you sew
so be sure of the fit before stitching
• To make this seam, place right sides of
the fabric together and serge on the
5/8-inch seam line
Serged and Topstitched
Seam
• Also called an
exposed seam;
stitches show on
garment’s right side
• (See right) A four-
thread overlock stitch © BERNINA of America, Inc.
gave the decorative edge; a sewing

machine stitched pocket to the garment
Lapped Seam
• This seam gives a decorative effect on

the outside of the garment; ideal for
reversible garments or thick, loosely
woven fabrics
1. Serge to the seam line on one side of
the seam; on the other side, skim the
edge of the seam with serging, leaving
the seam allowance
continued
Lapped Seam
2. Lap trimmed seam edge over the

other, aligning the 5/8-inch seam lines;
use fusible web or fabric glue to hold
layers in place
3. Using a conventional sewing machine,
topstitch the seam together
Flatlocked Seam
• This seam offers a

decorative effect
and is used on knit
sportswear
• Use for many fabric © BERNINA of America, Inc.
weights, but not with fabrics that ravel

• To make this seam, adjust your serger
for flatlocking according to the serger
manual
Serging Curves and
Corners
• To accurately serge inside or outside
curves, watch the knife rather than
the needle
• When serging in a circle, serge around
the circle and overlap the stitching for
one inch, then serge off the fabric’s edge
Serging Corners
• For outside corners

1. Stitch along one side of the fabric and off
the edge, leaving a chain
2. Stitch the next side, crossing and securing
the first line of stitching
continued
Serging Corners
• For inside corners

1. Mark the stitching line and cutting line
2. Clip corner to within 1/8 inch of stitching line
3. With the serger, stitch to the corner,
stopping when the blade reaches corner
cut marking
4. Pull the fabric toward you so the edge is
straight, but a pleat forms to the left;
continue stitching
Securing Seam Ends
• Serger stitches unravel if not secured

• If seams are crossed by other stitching,
ends are secured, otherwise you need
to secure the ends
• Ways to secure seam ends
– Knot the thread chain
– Bury the chain
– Secure the threads while stitching
– Use liquid seam sealant
continued
Securing Seam Ends
• To “bury the chain”

1. after stitching, pull chain
to smooth it out
2. thread it through a large-
eyed needle or loop
turner and run it under
1 to 2 inches of
overlocked stitches
3. trim excess thread
Stabilizing Seams
• Garment seams stitched with a serger

may require stabilizing
• Shoulder and neckline seams, front areas,
and crotch seams are often stabilized
• One method is to use a row of straight
stitching along the seam line
• Another method is to serge over twill tape,
seam tape, or ribbon
Removing Seams
• Serger stitches can be easily ripped out

• Use a seam ripper or sharp scissors
Methods for Removing
Seams
• Two-thread overlock—slide a seam
ripper or scissors under stitches; pull out
cut threads
• Three-thread overlock—cut loops every
three or four stitches; pull the needle
thread and the stitches will come undone
• Two-thread double chain stitch—cut
needle thread at end of seam; pull looper
thread and the stitches will come undone
Objective
Perform routine care of the serger.
Serger Care
• The serger will operate effectively with

proper maintenance
• Regularly clean the machine and oil
with sewing machine oil as specified by
the manufacturer
• Use a soft brush to remove the lint from
the knife area
continued
Serger Care
• Replace needles if stitches are not

forming properly
• Replace blades when fabric is not
cut smoothly
Review
1. Name the three operations sergers can
perform in one step.
join two layers of fabric to form a seam,
trim away extra seam allowance width,
and overcast (finish) the fabric edges
2. _____ in sergers replace the _____ in
regular sewing machines that form the
stitches.
Loopers; bobbin
continued
Review
3. Which serger stitch is used to create a very
narrow hem?
rolled edge stitch
4. Which serger stitch is considered the core
stitch because it can stitch, trim, and
overedge a seam in one operation?
overlock stitch
continued
Review
5. Name three advantages in using special
serger thread when using a serger.
(Name three) fineness for delicate
finishing and less bulk, strength, cross-
winding for smooth top feeding during
high-speed sewing, larger quantities,
economy
continued
Review
6. What is chaining off and when is it done?
serging a 2- to 3-inch thread chain while
holding the thread chain or tails lightly
behind the presser foot; done before
placing fabric in front of presser foot
7. Name the three methods of using a serger in
clothing construction.
one-step method, edge finish method,
narrow double-stitched seam method
continued
Review
8. Why is it important to check the fit before you
sew when using a serger?
once a seam is stitched, the allowance is
trimmed away, making it impossible to
alter seams
continued
Review
9. Describe the flat method of construction and
give an example.
sew flat pieces rather than pieces in the
round; example—finish necklines,
armholes, sleeves, hems before serging
underarm and side seams
continued
Review
10. Name four ways to secure seam ends.
knot the thread chain, bury the chain,
secure the threads while stitching, use
liquid seam sealant
11. Name two ways to stabilize a serged seam.
use a row of straight stitching along the
seam line; serge over twill tape, seam
tape, or ribbon

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28

Summarize how the serger functions.

• Sergers provide a factory-like finish to

• Sergers cannot be used

© BERNINA of America, Inc.

• Newer machines have stitches similar

• Advantages of using a serger

• A serger uses two, three,

that form the stitch

• A serger loops thread around the needle

• A serger performs many functions at the

• A serger runs much faster than a

Why does using a serger reduce the time

Identify serger machine parts and

• Although there are a variety of types

• Serger stitches vary with machine

• Can prevent raveling in sheer

• Used in sportswear or lingerie

• Rolled edge stitch

• Use three-thread machines for light- to

overedges a seam in one operation

• Chain stitch does not

Summarize how to select thread and

© BERNINA of America, Inc.

• The cone adapter is used when the

© BERNINA of America, Inc.

© BERNINA of America, Inc.

Demonstrate how to thread and

• Follow the directions in the owner’s

• Always thread the loopers before the

1. Set all tension dials

4. Holding the thread chain or tails lightly

6. At the end of the seam, continue sewing

7. Holding the fabric in one hand, pull the

• Thread tensions may need to be adjusted

Demonstrate proper use of a serger to

© BERNINA of America, Inc.

• Seams are stitched, trimmed, and

• Garment’s raw seam edges are

• Recommended when fit is uncertain

• Mock flat-felled seam uses both the

1. Stitch a standard seam with right sides

4. Using a sewing machine, topstitch from

© OfiPlus/Shutterstock © Levent Konuk/Shutterstock

• Many commercial patterns are designed

• Be sure to fit before you sew

• Best way to assemble a serged garment

List the steps you would take in constructing

Demonstrate how to serge various

• Sewing seams with a serger is fast

• Basic overlock seam is made using

gave the decorative edge; a sewing

• This seam gives a decorative effect on

2. Lap trimmed seam edge over the

• This seam offers a

weights, but not with fabrics that ravel

• For outside corners

• For inside corners

• Serger stitches unravel if not secured

• To “bury the chain”

• Garment seams stitched with a serger

• Serger stitches can be easily ripped out

© BERNINA of America, Inc.

Perform routine care of the serger.