7/4/2019 Foodie Localism Loves Farming in Theory, But Not in Practice - Aeon - Pocket

EXPLORE BEST OF 2018 MUST READS TRENDING TECH

Advertisement

POCKET WORTHY · Stories to fuel your mind.

Foodie Localism Loves Farming in Theory, But Not in

Practice
Despite the popularity of local food, the average farmer is not thriving.
Aeon | Debbie Weingarten

Photo by Stijn
Stijn te
te Strake
Strake on Unsplash
Unsplash

A few years ago, as the co-owner of a direct-market vegetable farm, my life revolved around harvests and
freeze dates, farmers’ market sales and enrolment numbers for our Community Supported Agriculture
programme. I saw the great parts of the local food movement, but I also saw the holes – restaurateurs who
promised to buy regularly, but rarely did; chefs who ordered only twice a year, but continued to claim
products on their menus; farmers’ market vendors selling tropical produce in my arid part of North
America. I saw consumers who wanted so badly to believe that they were contributing to the local food

https://getpocket.com/explore/item/foodie-localism-loves-farming-in-theory-but-not-in-practice 1/5
7/4/2019 Foodie Localism Loves Farming in Theory, But Not in Practice - Aeon - Pocket

economy that they overlooked the price look-up code stickers on the perfectly uniform tomatoes being
sold in December.

For many on the inside of the local food movement, such instances of misrepresentation are too common.
The underlying issue is that, in the rush to satisfy the enthusiasm and demand of local food consumers, we
have forgotten about the people who drive the entire system: the farmers.

The United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) reported

reported in 2015 that the number of farmers’
markets increased by 180 per cent between 2006 and 2014. On the surface, that seems good. But the
explosion of farmers’ markets has been driven by consumer desire and convenience. The economic
realities for farmers still sit uncomfortably alongside the practice of many farmers’ markets. When an
entrepreneur decides to open a farmers’ market – or a restaurant based on the concept of farm-to-table –
without first considering whether the region has enough farmers able to support such a venture, the result
is a scramble to fill the new marketplace or restaurant with food that can pass for local. Misrepresentation
o ten follows.

When I was farming, it seemed like new markets were sprouting up all over town, o ten at random times
and places. A fellow farmer and I began composing an op-ed under the working title ‘No More Fucking
Farmers’ Markets’. In my town, where farmers had once been able to make sufficient sales with a single
weekly market, additional markets created a watering down of sales. With less sales potential per market,
farmers were forced to add new markets and distribution points to an already maxed-out schedule. The
USDA’s aforementioned Trends in US Local and Regional Food Systems: A Report to Congress (2015)
confirms this: ‘While the growth in farmers’ markets signals increased consumer interest, for some local
food farmers, marketing food in multiple locations can increase marketing and transportation costs,
reducing overall net farm income.’

Despite the popularity of local food, the average farmer is not thriving. During the years in which farmers’
markets took off (between the 2007 and 2012 Agricultural Censuses), the US lost lost 4.3
4.3 per
per cent
cent of
of its
its farms
farms
farms,
continuing a downward trend that began in the 1950s. This year, farm-sector
farm-sector profitability
profitability is
is forecast
forecast toto
decline for the third year in a row. Net farm income is projected to go down, as are farm asset values. The
decline
projected median farm income for 2016 is negative $1,473. Just about the only statistic
statistic projected to rise in
2016 is farm debt. Farmers will continue to rely on off-farm income to pay their bills. They will choose
loan payments over savings accounts, chicken feed over dental care. They will face the heartbreaking
decision to leave their farms.

While local food has emerged as an alternative to industrial food, many people have simply transferred
their expectations from the grocery store to the farmers’ market. Consumers still expect a global array of
products, despite natural restrictions in season or geography. Additionally, emotional expectations
surrounding food have increased. People want to imagine chickens free-ranging in a pasture without
knowing anything about their deaths. They want their farmers to be simple, iconic food heroes. It is
awkward to burst the bubble of this romantic image by raising issues that will make or break the entire
movement: wells running dry, the ballooning stress of our producers, the fact that farmer suicide rates are
twice that of the general population.

There are farmers’ markets that require vendors to declare the origin of their products, or simply don’t
allow resellers. There are also great restauranteurs who are honest in their advertising and who buy

https://getpocket.com/explore/item/foodie-localism-loves-farming-in-theory-but-not-in-practice 2/5
7/4/2019 Foodie Localism Loves Farming in Theory, But Not in Practice - Aeon - Pocket

regularly from local farmers. But there are also plenty of businesses exploiting the popularity of the local
food movement.

Certainly, I believe we are warranted in calling out the restaurants and farmers’ markets that are blurring
the line to satisfy a public that wants to support local food, and yet who is o ten disconnected from
seasonality and the realities of food production. Consumers should be dogged in insisting that food be
represented accurately. This includes asking questions and requesting labelling programmes at farmers’
markets. It also helps to know about crop seasonality in your region. Watermelons appearing at winter
farmer’s markets were not likely grown anywhere in North America, much less locally.

It’s up to consumers to advocate for policies that allow farmers to succeed. If you care about artisan cheese
wheels, you should care about dairy prices. If you enjoy getting your weekly Community Supported
Agriculture share, you should support programmes that increase the economic viability of our farmers.
Obvious options include expanding Individual Development Accounts for beginning farmers and adding
farmers to the Public Service Loan Forgiveness programme through the Young Farmer Success Act.
Funding for crisis lines and behavioural health resources for farm families is insufficient and should be
increased. Doing so acknowledges that the wellbeing of farmers is directly related to the availability of
good food. Land trusts can work with farmers to reduce land costs through tools such as conservation
easements, but this requires funding and o ten political support.

Local or not, food systems are built on the backs of people. While the conventional food system offers the
magical illusion that food exists in a vacuum, removed from the human beings who raise it, the local food
system is an opportunity to create a connection between eater and producer. But with that opportunity
comes a responsibility to ensure that our farmers and their needs remain at the very centre.

Debbie
Debbie Weingarten
Weingarten is a writer and editor at Cactus Wren Writing, and the co-founder of the Farm Education
Resource Network. She writes flash and short fiction, personal essays and creative non-fiction, and her work
appears in Edible Baja Arizona. She lives in Tucson, Arizona.

This post originally appeared on Aeon and was published June 5, 2018. This article is republished here with permission.

Advertisement

More Stories from Pocket

https://getpocket.com/explore/item/foodie-localism-loves-farming-in-theory-but-not-in-practice 3/5
7/4/2019 Foodie Localism Loves Farming in Theory, But Not in Practice - Aeon - Pocket

Mark Manson
Why Can’t The World’s The Benefits Of Optimism 7 Strange Questions That
Greatest Minds Solve The Are Real Help You Find Your Life
Mystery Of Consciousness? Purpose

What Pocket Users are Saying

Christian Eggert
August 8, 2016

Local or not, food systems are built on the backs of people. While the conventional food
system offers the magical illusion that food exists in a vacuum, removed from the human
beings who raise it, the local food system is an opportunity to create a connection between
eater and producer. But with that opportunity comes a responsibility to ensure that our
farmers and their needs remain at the very centre.

Levi Rokey
July 24, 2016

The United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) reported in 2015 that the number of
farmers’ markets increased by 180 per cent between 2006 and 2014. On the surface, that
seems good. But the explosion of farmers’ markets has been driven by consumer desire
and convenience. The economic realities for farmers still sit uncomfortably alongside the
practice of many farmers’ markets. When an entrepreneur decides to open a farmers’
market – or a restaurant based on the concept of farm-to-table – without first considering
whether the region has enough farmers able to support such a venture, the result is a
scramble to fill the new marketplace or restaurant with food that can pass for local.
Misrepresentation often follows.

Katlego Mathope
February 2, 2019

¡JustEat♧ColouredGreens♧

Discover more great stories—get Pocket.

Get Pocket
https://getpocket.com/explore/item/foodie-localism-loves-farming-in-theory-but-not-in-practice 4/5
7/4/2019 Foodie Localism Loves Farming in Theory, But Not in Practice - Aeon - Pocket

Pocket Worthy

Pocket Hits

Advertise with Pocket

Terms of Service

Privacy Policy

© Read It Later, Inc 2019

https://getpocket.com/explore/item/foodie-localism-loves-farming-in-theory-but-not-in-practice 5/5