TRIED AND TESTED 21 DAYS CONDITIONING

MY 21 DAY CONDITIONING KEEP, TIPS AND POINTER

By: FERDIE C. DUCEPEC

I have been fighting roosters regularly for roughly thirty years way back my high school days.
At that time when most of my peers were in to playing video games, chess or attending parties
and the like, yours truly was already busy tending and fighting roosters. Yes, the thirty years or
so of experience has taught and untaught me a lot of things and lessons regarding the art of
cockfighting. I had the privilege of owning and conditioning both imported and local fighting
cocks and raising most if not all the best and popular game fowl bloodlines that set foot in the
country. Of equal importance, is the privilege of having been associated with the best game fowl
conditioners especially when I was starting in the sport. These long years of experience has
taught me how to put my roosters in shape and ready for big time competition. What I shall
impart with you is based on my personal /first hand experiences.

Let us begin by the kind of roosters that we shall condition. Please remember the following: No
amount of scientific conditioning contained in this keep can transform a mediocre rooster to an
ace cock. All we can do to our second rate roosters is to bring them to their full potential. Thus, it
is best if you fight your mediocre fowls in hack fights where the chances of meeting class A
opponents is less.

**Only class A roosters stand a chance to win the Derby Championship in today’s top
competition **

What is a class A rooster? The following for me are the requisites: First, Your rooster must come
from a winning line or family that has been winning ‘consistently and currently’ in the derbies.
Second, the rooster must be fresh and in robust health ( he must not have been moderately or
severely ill throughout his life). Third, the rooster must possess nice conformation ( proportional
size and station in relation to his weight), Fourth, There must be no visible or physical defects
such as, severely curled toes, broken/damaged wing and or tail feathers, bumble foot, crooked
breast bones etc… , Fifth, he must be properly aged, ideally 30 months and above, where he is at
his physical and psychological peak., Sixth, He must be a good and consistent sparer, not an
erratic performer. All these requisites must be present for a rooster to be in the class A category.

**Preference and Taste**

I shall always give preference to an intelligent fighting and accurate cutting rooster over the
aggressive/rusher type. When I was new in the sport, I really wanted roosters that are aggressive,
rough and multiple hitters. In fact, It took me quite a number of years to realize that this type of
fighting will not yield the winning percentage I desired. It was sometime in the mid eighties
when I had a change of heart when I started looking for bloodline/s that would suit the new
fighting style of my preference. Over the years I have developed strains and families of
intelligent roosters that win a big majority of my fights. The fowls I have developed win quickly
with their accurate cutting and great timing without losing their gameness and power if needed
during a drag fight. Win, Lose or Draw the present fowls I breed and fight unleash powerful
single blows, well timed and deliberate, each intended to kill the opponent at the early buckles.
The number of championship trophies displayed in the farm plus my other victories were mostly
compliments of these type of roosters.

***FEEDING THE CHAMPIONS***

FEED MIXTURE FOR YOUR ROOSTERS ( GOOD FOR 6 COCKS)

-------------------------------------------------

25GRAMS - OAT GROATS

40GRAMS - CRACKED CORN

60 GRAMS - CONCENTRATE
75 GRAMS - PLATINUM
1 PC. FINELY CHOPPED BOILED EGG WHITE
1 TBSP FLAT- DEXTROSE POWDER
**SECRET WEAPON
**PURE HONEY
DIRECTIONS: Mix the 25grams oat groats, 40grams cracked corn and 60grams concentrate.
Wash three times then drain thoroughly.
Place the drained grains in a mixing bowl then add your 75grams platinum, 1 pc finely chopped
boiled egg white and one tbsp flat dextrose powder. Stir well and put 35grams of the mixture to
six feeding clay pots. Before giving rationed feeds to roosters, put three drops of secret weapon
and a drop of pure honey ( about a peso size ) on top of each individual ration. Feed the roosters.
Omit the secret weapon and pure honey in the afternoon feed.
For their drinking water, mix selectrogen or electrogen daily “only in their morning” drinking
water especially during the hot summer months. Give clean fresh in their afternoon drinking
water.
CARBOLOADING( 2 – 4 DAYS BEFORE FIGHT )
------------------------------------------
30 GRAMS - OAT GRATS
70 GRAMS - CRACK CORN
40 GRAMS - CONCENTRATE
60 GRAMS - PLATINUM
***FOLLOW THE SAME FEEDING & DRINKING WATER PROCEDURES
CARBOLOADING (1 DAY BEFORE FIGHT)
-------------------------------------
30 GRAMS – OAT GROATS
90 GRAMS - CRACK CORN
30 GRAMS - CONCENTRATE
50 GRAMS - PLATINUM
***CUT THEIR RATION TO 30 GRAMS PER COCK FOR THEIR MORNING AND
AFTERNON FEEDING.
CUT WATER INTAKE TO 8 DIPS IN THE MORNING AND 8 DIPS IN THE AFTERNOON.
CARBOLOADING AND POINTING ON FIGHT DAY

-------------------------------------------

30 GRAMS - OAT GROATS

100GRAMS – CRACK CORN
50 GRAMS – PLATINUM
****RATION 30 GRAMS PER COCK FOR MORNING FEED. NO REGULAR
AFTERNOON FEED**
CUT WATER INTAKE TO 4 DIPS IN THE MORNING.

DERBY TIPS AND POINTERS on FIGHT DAY

--------------------------------------------
***I DEDUCT 40 GRAMS OFF FROM EACH OF MY ROOSTERS’ WEIGHTS IN
ARRIVING AT MY ENTRY’S SUBMITTED/DECLARED WEIGHTS.(FOR EXAMPLE: MY
ROOSTER WEIGHING 2.040KGS. WILL BE SUBMITTED/DECLARED AS 2.000KGS.)
THIS IS SAFE ENOUGH AS THE USUAL ‘BAD WEIGHTS‘ IMPLEMENTED BY
VARIOUS COCKPITS ARE FROM 35-45GRAMS.
***LIMBER AND DROP ROOSTERS INSIDE 3X3 PENS EVERY 2 ½ HRS FOR
APPROXIMATELY 5-10 MINUTES FOR THEM TO EXCRETE DROPPINGS.
***IN THE AFTERNOON, TEST WEIGHT YOUR ROOSTERS EVERY EACH TIMETHEY
ARE DROPPED.
***IF THEY ARE ALREADY IN THEIR GOOD WEIGHT WITHIN 4 HOURS WITHIN
THEIR APRROXIMATE FIGHTING TIME, DON’T FEED OR THEM ANYMORE.
***IF THEY ARE WITHIN THE GOOD WEIGHT AND ARE EXPECTED TO BE FOUGHT
BEYOND 4 HOURS,
YOU MAY FEED THEM NOT MORE THAN 5 GRAMS OF CRACK CORN/PLATINUM
MIXTURE DEPENDING ON HOW MUCH WEIGHT THEIR WEIGHTS HAVE DROPPED.
***IF YOU ARE WITHIN GOOD WEIGHT AND YOUR FOWL’S DROPPINGS ARE TOO
DRY, YOU MAY GIVE THEM 2-3 DIPS OF WATER WITH SELECTROGEN BUT AT
LEAST 2 HOURS BEFORE FIGHT. THIS WILL PROVIDE MOISTURE TO THEIR
SYSTEM.
***IF YOU ARE WITHIN GOOD WEIGHT AND YOUR FOWL’S DROPPINGS ARE WET
OR TOO SOFT, YOU MAY GIVE THEM 7-9 PIECES OF PELLETS/PLATINUM AND 3-4
PIECES OF CRACKED CORN. THIS WILL ABSORB THE EXCESS MOISTURE IN THEIR
SYSTEM. DO THIS AT LEAST 2 HOURS BEFORE FIGHT TIME.
***ENSURE THAT THE CROPS OF YOUR FOWLS ARE EMPTY WHEN THEY ARE
FOUGHT. THUS, ALWAYS CALCULATE THE TIME YOUR COCKS SHALL BE FOUGHT
TO ENSURE THIS.( BASE YOUR CALCULATION AT 5-7 FIGHTS per HOUR)
***AVOID WETTING YOUR FOWLS EXTERNALLY TOO MUCH DURING FIGHT DAY.
THIS WOULD ONLY ADD UNNECESSARY EXTERNAL MOISTURE TO YOUR
ROOSTERS. A FEW SPRAYS OF WATER IN THEIR FACE AND VENT IS ENOUGH TO
FRESHEN THEM. TOO MUCH WETTING/SPRAYING ON FIGHT DAY WOULD DO
MORE HARM THAN GOOD.
MY 21DAY VITAMIN/SUPPLEMENT FORMULA
------------------------------------------
DAY 1 .3CC COMPLEXOR
DAY 2 ½ CENTRUM
DAY 3 CALCIUM
DAY 4 PANAX GINSENG
DAY 5 .25CC B-12
DAY 6 ½ CENTRUM
DAY 7 CALCIUM
DAY 8 ½ CENTRUM
DAY 9 .25CC B-12 = .25CC COMPLEXOR
DAY 10 PANAX GINSENG
DAY 11 ½ CENTRUM
DAY 12 CALCIUM
DAY 13 ½ CENTRUM
DAY 14 .4CC B-12
DAY 15 PANAX GISENG
DAY 16 ½ CENTRUM
DAY 17 VOLTPLEX
DAY 18 .4CC B-12
DAY 19 VOLTPLEX (LUNCH TIME)
DAY 20 PANAX GINSENG (LUNCH TIME)
DAY 21 – VOLTPLEX 6:00 AM (FIGHT DAY)
***FROM DAYS 1 – 18 GIVE DURING EVENING OR LATE AFTERNOON AFTER FEEDI

NATURAL TRAINING AND EXERCISE

BASIC FACILITIES AND EQUIPMENT NEEDED

SCRATCH BOX (WITH DRIED CORN HUSKS INSIDE)

4 X 4 SCRATCH PENS

FLYING PENS

RUNNING PENS

CORD AREA

RUEDA/PIT WITH LIGHTS

WEIGHING SCALE ( 5 GRAMS GRADUATION)

COCKHOUSE WITH RESTING COOPS

DAILY TRAINING ROUTINE/EXERCISE

**DAYS 1- 5 (START 4:00AM)

10 MINUTES EACH INSIDE SCRATCH BOX

1 HOUR LIMBER INSIDE RUEDA UNDER FLOURESCENT LIGHTS

5:00 – 5:30AM BACK TO CORD AREA

6:00 - 6:30AM PLACE IN RUNNING PEN FOR 30 MINUTES

FEED AND REST THEM 7:00AM

3:00PM 10 MINUTES EACH INSIDE SCRATCH BOX

4:30PM AFTERNOON FEED AND REST

***DAYS 6-10( START 4:00AM)

15 MINUTES INSIDE SCRATCH BOX

1 HOUR LIMBER INSIDE RUEDA –DO-

5:00-5:30AM CORD AREA –DO-

6:00-6:30AM RUNNING PENS –DO-

7:OOAM FEED AND REST

8:00AM – 9:00AM SUN BATHE INSIDE 4 X 4 SCRATCH PENS

9:00AM – 12:30PM REST IN CORD AREA OR 4 X 4 PENS INSIDE RUEDA

12:30PM – 4:00PM PLACE THEM INSIDE FLYING PENS

4:30PM AFTERNOON FEED AND REST

****DAYS 11-13 (START 4:AM)

-DO- SCRATCH BOX

-DO- LIMBER RUEDA

-DO- CORD AREA

7:00AM MORNING FEED

8:00AM– 3:00PM FLYING PEN

3:00PM 15 MINTUES SCRATCH BOX

4:30PM AFTERNOON FEED

7:00PM-8:00PM 1 HOUR LIMBER INSIDE LIGHTED RUEDA

*****DAYS 14-18 (START 4:00AM)

-DO- SCRATCH BOX

-DO- LIMBER RUEDA

-DO- CORD AREA

7:00AM MORNING FEED

8:00AM-8:30/9:00( DEPENDING ON HEAT OF SUN) AM SUN BATHE INSIDE 4 X 4 PENS

9:00AM-12:00PM REST THEM AT CORD AREA

12:00PM – 3:00PM REST THEM AT RUEDA INSIDE 4 X 4 PENS

3:00PM SCRATCH BOX 5 MINUTES ONLY

4:30PM AFTERNOON FEED

7:00PM-8:00PM LIMBER INSIDE RUEDA

******DAYS 19 AND 20

NO MORNING WORK, 4:00AM JUST LET ROOSTERS WALK INDIVIDUALLY INSIDE

LIGHTED RUEDA

FOR TEN MINUTES, THEN PUT THEM BACK INSIDE THEIR COOPS. REPEAT THIS AT
12:00PM AND

4:00PM AFTERNOON. BEFORE FEEDING THEM PLACE THEM INSIDE SCRATCH BOX
FOR ONLY FIVE

MINUTES MAXIMUM, JUST ENOUGH TO LOOSEN THEIR MUSCLES.

********DAY21 FIGHT DAY

TOTAL REST FOR ROOSTERS. GOOD LUCK!!!

TIPS ON SPARRING
Why do we spar roosters? Most often, roosters are sparred for entertainment purposes especially
when friends or buyers are around. It can show case each rooster’s fighting styles and abilities.
However, sparring roosters during the conditioning stage is done quite differently when they are
sparred during the pre conditioning and/or maintenance stage. When my cocks are in the pre
conditioning and maintenance stage, I see to it that they are sparred once or twice a month. My
stags are sparred at every other four days. I spar them just to have them accustomed to being
sparred and more importantly to monitor and record which among them are the very good and
consistent sparrers. You may at this stage spar them alternately on grass and at your rueda. Two
rounds of three buckles each is enough. I usually spar them before being fed in the morning or
afternoon. Rate them as follows C (Deficient), B (average), B+ (good), A (very good), A+
(excellent), A++(super). Don’t play favorites and be objective when rating them. For your
selection of candidate cocks/stags to be placed in your 21 day keep, only choose from among
those who are consistently rated as A and higher. Selection is key in winning derby
championships.

Sparring sessions during the 21 day keep is done around 4:00 – 5:30 am. Your sparring days
shall be Days4, 10 and 15 during this 21 day keep. This will serve as your gauge as to which
among your candidate roosters are most worthy of being fielded in. Again, always record and
rate each rooster per session as objectively as you can. During the 21 day conditioning stage, you
must now always spar in your rueda under fluorescent lights. It is nice if you can also play a loud
radio to accustom them with the lighting and various noise conditions inside the pit as close as
possible. Try to heat and release your roosters as if you are already atop the pit in the actual
fight. Release your roosters in the manner you intend to release them come fight time. Two
rounds of 2 to 3 short buckles is enough. Always remember to bathe or shampoo your roosters
the day after their sparring day. I use mite free or Wash out shampoo for roosters which I find
both effective and fowl friendly. Remember this, “We do not intend to acquire stamina and
endurance during sparring, again this is only our gauge on how ready our roosters are”. Too
much and long sparring will only do more harm than good as it will sap the energy and vitality. It
also is the main reason for our roosters to sustain injuries such as sprains, muscle strains,
dislocated joints, damaged beaks and spurs not to mention broken tail and wing feathers. Worst
of all over sparring will only ruin your roosters’ sharpness and edge. Don’t spar your roosters to
the point of exhaustion. We want our roosters to be razor sharp as possible come fight time. We
want them to be on ‘edge’, thus be able to kill their opponents as quickly as possible and full of
vigor and reserved energy to be able to last the ten minute time limit during a long battering drag
fight if needed.

RANDOM TIPS AND POINTERS

________________________________

** DEWORM ALL CANDIDATE ROOSTERS 7 DAYSBEFORE THIS 21 DAY KEEP

REGIMEN AND

REPEAT DEWORMING 12-14 DAYS BEFORE THE FIGHT.

**BATHE AND/OR SHAMPOO ROOSTERS THE DAY AFTER EACH SPARRING
SESSION

**MAKE IT A POINT TO DOUBLE THE NUMBER OF YOUR CANDIDATE ROOSTERS

ESPECIALLY IN A BIG

EVENT YOU ARE PARTICIPATING. THUS, YOU MUST HAVE 8 GOOD CANDIDATE
COCKS FOR A 4 COCK

DERBY EVENT.

***NEVER NEVER USE STIMULANTS, STEROIDS AND OTHER ARTIFICIAL

DRUGS/SUBSTANCES TO YOUR

PRIZED ROOSTERS.THIS WILL ONLY RUIN THE WINNING CHANCES OF YOUR

COCKS AND HAMPER

THEIR FIGHTING STYLE. I HAVE ALREADY TRIED USING ALMOST ALL OF THESE
SO CALLED WONDER

DRUGS, MOST OF THE TIME UNSUCCESSFULL.YOU MUST JUST BELIEVE THAT

ACE ROOSTERS ARE

PRODUCT OF THE BROOD PEN.

***YOUR CHEAPEST INVESTMENT IN THIS SPORT IS THE ACQUISITION OF

QUALITY BROOD MATERIALS AS THIS WOULD DETERMINE YOUR DESTINY IN
THE SPORT.

***ACQUIRE BROODFOWL ONLY FROM ESTABLISHED BREEDERS WHO SHALL

SELL YOU HIS WINNING BLOODLINES. CONSISTENCY AND LONGEVITY IS THE
NAME OF THE GAME IN THE SPORT. SHORT LIVED BLOODLINES AND NICKS
COME AND GO, BUT THE BEST ONES ARE HERE TO STAY.

*** TRY YOUR DARNEST BEST TO FOLLOW STRICTLY WHAT I HAVE SHARED
WITH YOU AND IT WILL SURELY INCREASE YOUR WINNING PERCENTAGES
DRAMATICALLY FOR AS LONG YOU ARE USING QUALITY BATTLE FOWL. WHAT I
HAVE SHARED HERE HAS BEEN PROVEN OVER THE YEARS IN THE TOUGHEST
PITS IN ARANETA, ROLIGON, PASAY, MAKATI, CAINTA, SAN JUAN AND OTHER
TOP COCK FIGHTING VENUES.