Leather MD Briefcase (Doctor's Bag)

by Phiske in leather
One of my favorite style of briefcase is the doctor's bag. Basically that refers to any bag
that has an internal metal frame that is hinged to hold the mouth of the bag open. These
frames can be bought but are expensive and of bad quality. So being a Maker I figured
I'd make my own.

Step 1: Tools and Materials

I have quite a few leather tools that I've procured (mostly from Tandy Leather Factory)
over the years. The tools shown aren't all that I have but are the most used (Forgot my
strap cutter). You can get by in the beginning with just some basic tools such as a utility
knife, straight edge, makeshift awl, stitching needles. But as you expand in your leather
working you'll definitely want to get more tools. This will greatly improve the fun and
quality of your work. You'll also need sponges and rags for dyeing. A cutting surface is
essential. I have 4 plastic kitchen cutting boards screwed to my worktop for cutting.

Get a couple books to look through too. The ones shown are my favorites ( available
here )

I also use a Dremel with a flexible shaft that I've had for some 14 years. These come in
handy for tough leather if you have a hard time getting your stitching awl through. Just
pop a 1/16" drill bit in and you're all set. You can also use it with a small sanding drum
to even out glued up edges such as at the gussets or on the handle.

You will also need a drill,bits,oil and a hack saw to make the frame.

Materiales

10 sq.ft.8 0z. veg tanned leather

3 sq. ft 5 0z. veg tanned leather

1/8" x 1/2" x 4' steel

7" x 15" sheet metal

4 Dees 1"

2 Chicago Screws

1 Tuck catch

Thread

Leather Dye and Finish

Contact cement

Step 2: Dye Leather

I have found that dyeing your leather beforehand gets the best results. Sometimes after I
am done with a project I will go back with a darker color and antique it a bit. Follow the
manufacturers instructions.

Step 3: Cut Out Pieces

Dimensions for most of the parts are in the pic above. Only the gussets and the steel
wraps are made of 4-5 oz. leather. The rest is from 8 oz. or there about.
Step 4: Steel Frame
I made a frame for the mouth of the bag out of 1/8" x 1/2" construction steel. Draw it
out on a piece of paper and take your measurements of off it. The finished dimensions
are about 15 1/2" by 7 1/2" when open. Give enough room for them to be wrapped in
the 4-5 oz. leather and not rub to much. Drill holes for the hinge the same dimensions as
your Chicago screws about 1/2" from the end. Test it out.

Step 5: Wrap the Steel Frame

Wet a 3" by 26" piece of 4-5 oz. leather down the center and fold it over. Let it dry a bit
then cement this to the frame as in the pics. Cut out the hole for the chicago screws at
the hinge and fit it together. Leave the ends long for now.

Step 6: Handles
I don't have a pattern to share right now for the handle but I'll try to post it later. There
are two handles and each is made up of 2 pieces plus 2 tabs to attach it to the body.
Make sure to dye the backside of any parts that may be exposed. Follow pics above.

Step 7: Coffee Break

Step 8: Prepare Front and Back
Finish (dye and burnish) bottom and top edges of front and back. Cut stitching channel
all around the outside about a quarter inch in from edge. Punch stitching holes. Glue to
bottom as in pics. Stitch to bottom and add bottom feet and stitch.

Step 9: Add Frame and Bottom

Cement and stitch frame to front and back. You can remove the chicago screws to make
this easier. Cement sheet metal to bottom inside. This will keep your bag from sagging.
Cement a thin piece of leather over the sheet metal.

Step 10: Add Dividers to Gussets

The gussets are a bit tricky on this bag. Measure up a 1/2" from the bottom on flesh side
of gussets and 3 " apart from the center. This is where the bag dividers will be located.
Cement them in place then fold gusset over the divider. Use a hammer to crease it there
and then stitch the gusset from the outside through the divider. Check out the pics

Step 11: Install Gussets With Dividers

This is one of the hardest parts of this construction. The dimensions of the gusset have
been deformed by stitching in the dividers so a bit needs to be trimmed off of the
bottom sides to make it fit properly. Start by stretching and cementing the bottom of the
gusset to the case. You may need to try to fit it a couple of times to get it right. Just cut
a bit off at a time to get it. Cement, trim edges, burnish and stitch.

The ends of the steel frame wrap needs to be finished off at this point too. Trim it to
your liking and stitch.

Step 12: Add Handles and Lock Tab

I don't have a lot of pics for this step cuz I just wanted to finish it.

Locate your lock tab on the back side ( the side that overlaps the front) cement and
stitch it in place. It should run long to be trimmed after you locate the female end of the
tuck tab. Stitch that in place also.

Hold your handles flush together and then locate them on the body. Cement and stitch
them.

Step 13: Finish

I kind of antiqued the bag by adding darker stain o certain spots that would receive
more wear. Then I put a protective oil to finish the outside.

All done!