OCCUPATIONAL SKILLS DEVELOPMENT

SHORT COURSE
For
Papua New Guinea Non-Formal Sector

GARMENT PRODUCTION
Learning to Sew TH007ii

RATIONALE

This short course was developed as a resource material for the trainer. This
module is one in a series of nine, which covers all competences standard in using
the tools and supplies in level one Garment Production. Due to the demand STRU
has developed this short course for the community and other stake holder to have
better knowledge and skills in handling the sewing equipment. Furthermore the
course aim is to create a link for training those unskilled people in the community
to have the opportunity to learn the basic skills in use of the tools and supplies.

p o box 1097, waigani

national capital district
papua new guinea.

tel: (675) 323 2633 The development of this short course was sponsored by the ADB-PNG
fax: (675) 323 0944 EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT (EOSDP) and
produced by curriculum officers at the SKILLS TRAINING RESOURCES UNIT
(STRU)
NOT FOR SALE
 Learning to Sew

TABLE OF CONTENT

CONTENTS PAGES

Course Outline 2

Competency Profile 3–4

• Learning to sew

Curriculum Guide 5

Overview of Learning Outcomes 6–7

• Define sewing
• Tools and supplies
• Sewing machine
• Sewing area

Appendix 5 7 – 14
• Instructional notes

Attachments 14 – 15
• Process of sewing

Acknowledgement 16

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 Learning to Sew

COURSE OUTLINE: Learning to sew

Program: TOURISM AND HOSPITALITY
Course: GARMENT PRODUCTION
Module code: TH007ii
Module name: Learning to sew

Module1:
Workplace Health and
Safety

Module 2:
Learning to Sew

Module 3:
Basic Hand Stitches

Module 4:
Decorative Stitches

Module 5:
Seams

Module 6:
Types of Fullness

Module 7:
Types of Attachments

Module 8:
Types of Hems

Module 9:
Types of Fasteners

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 Learning to Sew

COMPETENCY PROFILE: Learning to sew

Duty Task

A. Workplace A1. Safety regulations A2. Hazard/risk A3. Contingency

Health and measures
Safety

B. Introduction B1. Define sewing B2. Identify tools and B3. Sewing machine
to Sewing supplies operation
[NECESSITIES OF
SEWING]

B4. Sewing area

C. Basic Hand C1. Tacking stitch C2. Running stitch C3. Back stitch
Stitches
[BASIC CONSTRUCTION
TECHNIQUES]

C4. Slip stitch C5. Overcasting stitch C6. Blanket stitch

D. Types of D1. Chain stitch D2. Stem stitch D3. Satin stitch
Decorative
Stitches

D4. Scross stitch D5. Herringbone stitch D6. Lazy daisy stitch

D7. French knot stitch D8. Cretan stitch

E. Types of E1. Open seam E2. French seam E3. Flat seam
Seams

F. Types of F1. Construct darts F2. Sew gathering F3. Sew pleats
Fullness

F4. Sew tucks

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 Learning to Sew

COMPETENCY PROFILE: Learning to sew

Duties Task

G. Types of G1. Attach facing G2. Attach pocket G3. Attach collar
Attachments

G4. Attach sleeve G5. Attach cuffs G6. Attach placket

H. Types of H1. Sew a turned up- H2. Sew a faced edge H3. Sew an enclosed
Hems edge edge

I. Types of I1. Attach hooks and I2. Sew snaps for I3. Sew snaps
Fasteners eyes for overlap, overlap, just meet
just meet and edges and may
exposed edges show

I4. Sew self gripping I5. Make decorative I6. Attach zipper
fasteners fasteners

I7. Make buttons and

buttonholes

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 Learning to Sew

CURRICULUM GUIDE
Program: TOURISM AND HOSPITALITY
Course: GARMENT PRODUCTION
Module code: TH007ii
Module name: Learning to sew
Module purpose: The purpose of the module is to orient and equip participants with
essential skills and knowledge in sewing.
Nominal duration: The module will take approximately seven hours.
Prerequisites: There are no pre-requisites for this module.
Content: B1. Define sewing
B2. Tools and supplies
B3. Sewing machine operation
B4. Sewing area
Suggested delivery method: This module should be delivered using these methods:
1. Explanation (what we will do) 5%
2. Demonstration (how we will do it) 15%
3. Implementation (now you do it) 70%
4. Evaluation (how good did we do it) 10%
Instructor: The trainer preferred will be a recognized trainer from the community
or a trained vocational teacher who has sewing skill.
Resource requirement: Teaching notes, charts.
Assessment method: The assessment will be given in a holistic manner through:
• Short aswer
• Oral questions and observation
• Practical application
Assessment condition: In a classroom or a training hall with proper:
• Lighting, ventilation
• Tables and chairs
• Sewing tool and equipment
Reference: 1. Complete Guide to Sewing – The Readers Digest Association - 1976
2. Complete Book of Handcrafts – Susie Ting -1991

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 Learning to Sew

Overview of Learning Outcome and Assessment APPENDIX 2: Training and Assessment Guide
Criteria: (Learning Outcome).
On successfully completion of the course the
Task B2: Tools and supplies.
participants will be able to:
Suggested minimum instructional time: 2 hours
B1. Define sewing.
B2. Identify tools and supplies used in sewing. Learning outcome B2.1:
B3. Use the sewing machine using correct • Identify tools and supplies used in sewing.
procedures.
Teaching strategy:
B4. Set up the sewing area to suit your need. Learning activities for the participants must
include the instructor to;
2.1 Identify sewing tools and supplies.
APPENDIX 1: Training and Assessment Guide 2.2 Identify and explain functions of different
(Learning Outcome). tools and supplies.
2.3 Demonstrate use of different tools and
Task B1: Introduction to sewing.
supplies.
Suggested minimum instructional time: 1 hour
Assessment condition:
Learning outcome B1.1: In a classroom situation or a training hall where
• Define sewing. the participants are provided with;
• Teaching notes
Teaching strategy:
Learning activities for the participants must • Sewing tools and supplies
include the instructor to;
Assessment criteria:
1.1 Explain what is sewing. The participant has;
1.2 Identify the importance of sewing. 2.2.1 Named sewing tools and supplies.
1.3 Identify sewing terms. 2.2.2 Listed the functions of different tools and
supplies.
Assessment condition:
In a classroom situation or a training hall where 2.2.3 Practiced use of different tools and supplies.
the participants are provided with;
Assessment method:
• Teaching notes The assessment will be given in a holistic manner
• Sample of fashions and designs through;
• Observation
Assessment criteria:
The participants have; • Oral questioning
1.1.1 Defined what is sewing. • Short answer questions
1.1.2 Outlined the importance of sewing.
1.1.3 Used sewing terms correctly in given
situations. APPENDIX 3: Training and Assessment Guide
(Learning Outcome).
Assessment method:
The assessment will be given in a holistic manner Task B3: Sewing machine operation.
through; Suggested minimum instructional time: 3 hours
• Observation
• Oral questioning Learning outcome B3.1:
• Operate the sewing machine using correct
• Short answer questions
procedures.

Teaching strategy:
Learning activities for the participants must
include the instructor to;
3.1 Identify types of sewing machine.
3.2 Identify parts and functions.
3.3 Explain the operation process of using the
sewing machine.

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 Learning to Sew

3.4 Identify machine needle and inserting. Assessment condition:

3.5 Demonstrate threading and winding the In a classroom situation or a training hall where
bobbin. the participants are provided with;
3.6 Demonstrate threading the machine. • Teaching notes
3.7 Identify basic trouble shooting problems. • Sewing tools
• Charts
Assessment condition:
In a classroom situation or a training hall where Assessment criteria:
the participants are provided with; The participants have;
• Teaching notes 4.3.1 Outlined the area for set-up.
• Sewing tools and supplies 4.3.2 Set-up the layout.
• Charts
Assessment method:
• Sewing machine The assessment will be given in a holistic manner
through;
Assessment criteria:
The participant has; • Observation
3.1.1 Listed types of sewing machines. • Practical demonstration
3.2.2 Labelled parts and functions of the sewing • Practical application
machine.
3.3.3 Used the sewing machine following the
correct operation process. APPENDIX 5: Instructional Notes
3.4.4 Inserted the needle following the correct
procedure.
INTRODUCTION
3.5.5 Threaded and wound the bobbin. B1: Definition of sewing
3.6.6 Threaded the machine.
3.7.7 Outlined basic trouble shooting problems. Sewing is a craft involving the stitching of cloth
or other materials, using needle and thread.
Assessment method:
Sewing is used primarily to produce clothing and
The assessment will be given in a holistic manner
household furnishing as curtains, bedclothes,
through;
upholstery, and table linens. It is also used for
• Observation sails, below, skin boats and other items shaped
• Demonstration out of flexible materials such as canvas and
• Practical activity leather.
Most sewing in the industrial world is done by
machines. Pieces of a garment are often firstly
tacked together.
APPENDIX 4: Training and Assessment Guide
Some people sew clothes for themselves and
(Learning Outcome).
their families. More often home sewers sew to
Task B4: Set up sewing area. repair clothes, such as mending a torn seam or
Suggested minimum instructional time: 1 hour replacing a loose button. A person who sews for
a living is known as a seamstress, dressmaker
Learning outcome B4.1: tailor, or garment worker.
• Set up the sewing area to suit your need. “Plain” sewing is done for functional reasons:
making or mending clothing or household linens.
Teaching strategy: “Fancy” sewing is primarily decorative, including
Learning activities for the participants must techniques such as shirring, smocking,
include the instructor to; embroidery, or quilting
4.1 Identify the set-up area. Sewing is the foundation for many needle arts
4.2 Plan the style to use to set up. and crafts, such as appliqué, canvas work, and
patchwork.

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 Learning to Sew
SEWING TERMS
Special terms are often used in directions for
making up a garment. Some apply to fabrics and
the way to cut them; others apply to methods of
sewing. It is a help to know what they mean.
Words Definition
Absorbant Fabric that has the capability to
absorb moisture.
Alteration Making changes to a pattern to
provide a better fit or a garment
after it is made.
Batting Fiberfill, cotton, wool, or other
material that is flatten and usually
on a roll and purchased in precut
lengths or by yard.
Bias Runs diagonally to the straight
grain of the fabric. This is the
stretchiest part on the fabric.
Bias tape Strips of fabric cut on bias, often
turned under and pressed, and
used for binding, facings, or other
application where there is a need
for stretch or accommodation to
curve. Often found finishing
edges of a blanket or quilt. (see
binding below).
Binding Encasing the raw edges of a
blanket or quilt with another
piece of fabric. Binding also refers
to the fabric that is folded and
used for encasing of the raw
edges. (blanket, quilt, seam etc).
Blade The round, razor sharp portion of
a rotary cutter. Also the cutter
used on a serger.
Bleeding Colour seeping out of fabric in the
wash, when wearing (sometimes
colour will transfer to the body or
to a lighter fabric worn underneath
the bleeding fabric). Be sure and
wash fabric that bleeds with like
colours or by itself.
Bolt A large roll of fabric which can be
on a tubular roll or a rectangular
form. Fabric usually folded right
sides together lengthwise on a
bolt.
Butting Bring to edges together so they
touch but do not overlap.
Casing Fabric envelope of sorts for
encasing elastic, a drawstring, or
similar material, usually along a
waistline, cuff and hem.
Colour fast Holds colour even when in a wash.
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Words Definition
Cording A twisted or woven “rope” or
string that is used primarily in
piping and to act as a drawstring
in a waistband, or sterilizer for
frog closures.
Cutting line On a pattern, the outmost dart
line is the line upon which you
cut.
Dart A v shape, tapered adjustment to a
pattern to allow for more fullness
in the bust area or less fullness in
other areas.
Facing Fabric sewn on the raw edge of a
garment pieces that is turned
under and serves as a finish for
the edge as well.
Foldline This is the actual fold of the fabric
off the bolt or a fold of your own
creation.
Gathering Making a long piece of fabric to
fit with a shorter piece of fabric.
Overlock An overcast stitch to prevent
raveling of fabric.
Pleat A fold in fabric that is either
inverted of folded outward.
Press Using an iron in a press/pick
up/move/press pattern.
Prewash Washing fabric before using it for
a garment or project to allow for
any color bleeding.
Raw edge The edge of a fabric is not stitched
of finished.
Right side The right side of the fabric is the
design side.
Seam The result of when two pieces of
fabrics are sewn together along a
line.
Selvedge The edge of the fabric which
generally does not fray due to
manufactures’ finish.
Underlining Lining used to add body to a
garment.
Warp Threads running the length of a
woven fabric, sometimes known
as the lengthwise grain.
Weft Threads running at right angles to the
length of a woven fabric, sometimes
known as the cross grain.
Weft A method of covering the raw
edges of a pocket or other
opening, can be single or doubles.
Wrongside Wrongside The wrong side of the
fabric is the side upon which
there is no design.
 Learning to Sew

B2: Sewing tools and equipment

SEWING TOOLS
MEASURING DEVICES
• Tape measure is essential for taking body
Chalk-filled pencil, makes Handle & metal wheel wtih
measurements. Best tape choice is flexible
temporary marks on fabric. teeth, used with tracing.
synthetic or fibre glass, which will not tear or
stretch: 60” length with both measurements SHEARS AND SCISSORS
on both sides. • Pinking shears cut zigzag, raven resistant edge.
• Yardstick is best device for taking long, Excellent for finishing seams and raw edges on
straight measurements. Good also for many types of fabric, also for decorative use.
checking grainlines, making hems. Be sure Should not be used to cut out patterns.
surface of wood is smooth. • Scalloping shears work like pinking shears but
• T-square is useful for locating edges cross cut more ravel-resistant edge-each round edge
edges. Altering patterns; squaring off becomes bias.
straightedges. Best type is transparent with • Embroidery scissors, useful as well for general
easy-to-read markings. needlework, ripping, clipping and buttonholes.
• Dress makers gauge measures different size • Sewing scissors come in 5” and 6” lengths.
scallops; straight side will measure One blunt point prevents the snagging of
buttonholes, pleats and tucks. fabric when trimming.
• French curve it is useful when re-drawing
construction lines on patterns, especially in
curve areas, such as armholes, necklines and
princess seams.
• Sewing gauge is a 6” ruler with a sliding
marker that adjusts to desired measurement,
keeps it constant when marking. Ideal for 1. Heavy Duty cutting of fabric.
hems, tucks, pleats or button holes. One handle larger than the 2. Used to trim threads. Two
other. handles same size.

3. Cuts a zig-zag edge

to prevent raveling.
Makes a seam finish.

SEWING SUPPLIES
• Threads a long, thin strand of cotton, nylon, or
other fibres used in sewing. Select thread
according to purpose. Use thread one shade
6” Long with slide, helps you 60” Long, takes pattern or darker than the fabric, for a print or plain use a
mark a hem or smaller amounts. body measurements.
dominant colour.
MARKING DEVICES
• Chalk in pencil form is used like any pencil;
makes a thin, accurate line, fine for making
pleats, buttonholes, and similar details. Chalk
colours include white and pastel shades.
• Tracing wheels are used with dressmaker’s
tracing paper to transfer pattern markings to
fabric. Usual choice is serrated edge wheel,
suitable for most fabrics. Smooth-edged wheel
makes firmer markings on hard-to-mark
fabrics, protects delicate, smooth ones.

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 Learning to Sew

• Straight pins to hold pieces of two fabrics Other types of needles

together, comes in several lengths and
thicknesses. Generally, the longer the pin, the Needle craft Darning Heavy Duty
thicker it is. Standard lengths for dress making Crewels Cotton darners Clovers
is 1/6th , this type known as seamstress or silk
pins, is suitable for light-weight fabrics. Chenille Double longs Sailmakers
Tapestry Yarn darners Curved needles
Beading

Used to hold pattern to fabric or 2 layers of fabric.

Must lay flat on fabric.

Different sizes and lengths. Used to sew by hand.

• Machine needles are selected according to
weight and other fabric characteristics, as well
as the thread type being used.
Ø Needle sizes range from fine (size 9) for
lighter weight fabrics to heavy (size 18) for
very heavy ones.
Ø Sizes 11 and 14 are used most often for
Flat pin Coloured ball pin T-pin
general sewing. Most of the needles sold
Metals of which straight pins are made; are made in a standard length that fits most
Ø Brass: Soft metal, does not rust, usually nickel- modern machines.
plated, retains sharp point for a long time. Ø Always replace dulled, bent, burred, or
Ø Steel: Sturdy metal, can rust, usually nickel- nicked needles; they can damage fabric.
plated, least expensive, can be picked up
magnetically.
Ø Stainless steel: Strong metal, does not rust, Shank
Flat
can also be picked up magnetically. side Round
* nickel plating sometimes leaves a black mark side
on fabric (discard all rusty pins).
Shaft
• Hand needle is a long, slender, object with a
pointed tip. Many types of needles are made Groove
for hand sewing, each for specific purpose. Scarf
Point
Type and size required varies according to the Eye
work to be done and the fabric use.
Side Front
General hand sewing
Ø Sharps: (sizes 1-12) a needle of average length
with a round eye, used for general sewing.
Ø Betweens: (sizes 1-12) short needles with Point
Front view
round eyes; generally used for tailoring.
Ø Ball-points; (sizes 5-10) resembles sharps
except for the point, which is rounded to Top Shaft Groove Eye
penetrate between knit yarns. Round side
Side view

Top Eye
Flat side

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 Learning to Sew

• Sewing aids: Samples of such sewing aids are Bobbins are spool-like thread holders that supply
listed here. In buying sewing tools and supplies, bottom thread for machinesewing. Made of plastic
it is wise to begin with a few basic ones, or metal, they come in different types to fit
purchasing more as the need arises. In addition specific machines.
to aids some common household items can be
used for sewing jobs.
Ø Bobbins are spool-like thread holders that
supply bottom thread for machine sewing.
Ø Bobbin case holds the bobbin
Ø Thimble protects middle finger while hand
sewing, Comes in sizes 6 (small) to 12
(large) for snug fit.
Ø Seam ripper has sharp, curved edge for
cutting seams open and a point for picking
A loop turner is a specially designed tool with a
out thread. Use ripper carefully to avoid
latch-hook device at one end. It is used to turn
accidental cutting of fabric.
Ø Bodkin is tool shaped like along, blunt
tubing or bias cording to the right side. (2)
A bias tape maker with the aid of an iron makes
needle and used for threading elastic or
single-fold bias tape. Bias tape makers are
cord through a casting.
Ø Pin cushion is a safe, handy place to store
available in _” to 2” (6 mm to 50 mm) sizes. (5)
A pointer and creaser is a flat wooden tool
pins or needles with their heads protruding
approximately 4” (10 cm) long. One end is
so as to take hold of them easily, keep them
pointed, the other is rounded. The pointed end is
accessible.
used for pushing out small corners; the rounded
end is used in conjunction with an iron to flatten
seamlines or to assist finger pressing. (4)
• Sewing equipment
Ø Sleeve board flat ironing surfaces on which
seams and details of narrow garments
section (sleeve and pants legs) can be
easily pressed.
Ø Iron is a tool that is used to straighten or
Stores pins, filled with sawdust which sharpens press fabric. The iron can be used with or
pins. without steam. It is a important tool for the
sewing.

Takes out sewing mistakes.

Protects your finger when hand sewing.

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 Learning to Sew

Parts and Functions of Sewing Machine

B3: Sewing machine operation
Models of sewing machine may differ, but their
fundamental features are remarkably similar.
TYPES OF SEWING MACHINES
10
There are different types of Sewing machines
11
used in the country. The sewing machines listed 8 7
below are in use.
• Manual hand sewing, manually operated 9 14 12
commonly used in parts of the country.
3
• Treadle sewing machine, manually operated 1
by paddling with foot, controlled by a machine 6 2
4 5 13
belt.
• Electrical sewing machine electricity operated
machine used for lightweight sewing.
• Heavy duty sewing machine used for sewing
15
heavy duty garments.
• Overlocker sewing machine neatening sides of
sewn seam (edging machine). 16

NO PART FUNCTION
1 Power stitch Connects to power.
2 Presser foot When lowered (using a lever on the back of the machine), this
holds the fabric in place.
3 Presser foot lifter Lift to release fabric after sewn.
4 Throat plate The all-purpose one is the zigzag plate, with an opening wide
enough for the needle to move back and forth.
5 Feed dogs Grips the fabric as you sew.
6 Needle clamp This holds the needle in place.
7 Take-up lever The top thread passes through the take-up lever, which moves up
and down in coordination with the needle.
8 Upper tension This controls the tension on the top thread. With proper tension,
the regulator top. thread and bobbin thread join together in
uniform stitches. If the tension is set too tight, the stitch will pucker
and break. Increase the tension if the stitches are weak and loose.
9 Thread guide From the spool, thread first passes through here.
10 Spool pin These hold the thread.
11 Bobbin winder The small spool is placed upon this while the bobbin is being filled.
12 Handwheel/ This raises and lowers the needle manually.
balance wheel
13 Stitch-length Use medium-length stitches for general sewing; shorter stitches
for regulator fine fabrics; longer stitches for heavier fabrics, basting,
and gathering.
14 Stitch-width regulator This determines the width of zigzag stitches.
15 Bobbin case/bobbin Holds the bobbin.
16 Foot control Controls the movement of needle.

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 Learning to Sew

TO INSERT A MACHINE NEEDLE UPPER THREADING

1. Loosen the needle clam screw.
2. Push needle up into clamp as far as possible,
with the flat side of the shank facing away
from you and the groove of the needle facing
toward the last thread guide.
3. Tighten needle clamp screw. (this procedure is
correct for most machines but it is wiser to
check the instruction books that accompanies
your machine).
4. To remove a needle, reverse the insertion
process.
1. Place thread on the spool pin. Take hold of
thread end.
2. Pass thread and through first thread guide
3. Bring thread down toward the tension
assembly
4. Pass thread under and around tension discs,
taking care that it falls between two if the
discs.
5. Pull thread upward and then let it go slack.
This allows thread to be caught by the hook
and thread check spring, which hold thread in
position between tension disc.
6. Bring thread up and behind next thread guide.
7. Pass thread into take-up lever.
8. Bring thread down and through thread guides
9. Pass thread end through eye of the needle,
being sure that it goes in proper direction for
machine. Pull at least 3” of thread through
needle.

2 1
PROCESS OF USING THE SEWING MACHINE 7
3
1. Prepared plain exercise paper with ruled line.
6
2. Set up the hand sewing machine with the 5
machine needle attached (without the thread). 4
3. Lift the pressure foot at the back of the needle 8
bar.
9
4. Place the plain paper under the pressure foot
over the feed dog.
5. Bring the pressure foot down; it should hold
the paper firmly against the feed dog. THREAD AND WIND THE BOBBIN

6. Turn the handle slowing, your eye focusing on 1. Place thread on the spool pin.
the paper and the needle, once your 2. Bring thread to the thread guide.
concentration is focused, gradually increase
3. Down to the thread guide (where the tension is).
the speed .
4. Across to tension spring.
7. Sew; follow the ruled line on the paper until
you familiarized yourself in handling the 5. Roll around bobbin.
sewing machine. 6. Loosen nut where the wheel is.
7. Run the machine to wind the bobbin.
Note: See attachment

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 Learning to Sew
BASIC TROUBLE SHOOTING PROBLEMS IN THE PROCESS OF SEWING
PROBLEM
Needle is incorrectly inserted
Needle is wrong size
Needle is damaged or dirty
Trouble in stitching or unevenness in
stitching (uneven winding of bobbin)
Loose stitches on the top
Loose stitches at the bottom
Thread breaks while sewing
(wrong thread used)
B4: Sewing area
Find a space in the home to spare for your
sewing to take place. The sewing necessities are
actually very few, and can be accommodated in a
relatively small area.
To function efficiently, all items should be at a
convenient place where they can be reached
easily.
To set-up a sewing area specific items needed to
place in the sewing area:
• Work table: To set up the sewing machine,
making sure that the table is stable and strong,
about 30 inches high, approximately 18 to 20
inches from front to back and 35 – 40 inches
wide.
• Chair: Comfortable chair cushion seat, so no
body part gets all the pressure.
• Cupboard: To store all sewing tools and
supplies, a cupboard with different drawers for
specific items.
14 EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - SKILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT
SOLUTION
Carefully re-insert needles
Select needle of the proper conformation and size, and
insert.
Replace with a perfect needle
Bobbin must be evenly wind
Adjust the bobbin case (tighten or loosen nut) or the
thread the bobbin case correctly
Thread the machine properly
Adjust the tension, thread machine correctly or use
correct thread
ATTACHMENTS
ANATOMY OF A NEEDLE
The key features of a standard machine needle
are called out below. Their configuration varies
from needle type to type.
Shank
Top of needle that inserts into machine; most
often has round front and flat back, which seats
needle in right position.
Shaft
Body of needle below shank. Shaft thickness
determines needle size.
Front groove
Slit above needle eye, should be large enough to
"cradle" thread for smooth stitches.
Point
Needle tip that penetrates fabric to pass thread to
bobbin-hook and form stitch. Shape of point
varies among needle types.
Scarf
Indentation at back of needle. A long scarf helps
eliminate skipped stitches by allowing bobbin
hook to loop thread more easily. A shorter scarf
requires a more perfectly timed machine.
Eye
Hole in end of needle through which thread
passes. Needle size and type determine size and
shape of eye.
 Learning to Sew

SEWING MACHINE SAFETY RULES

Operation Safety Precautions
v Make sure all other participants/trainees keep
away from the immediate work area at all
times.
v Remove the cover from the sewing machine
and replace it on the back of the chair before
use.
v One person only is to operate a sewing
machine at anytime.
v Do not touch a sewing machine whilst another
person is operating it
v Turn the power off when making adjustments
to the sewing machine.
v Examples include changing the pressure foot
and the needle.
v Never raise the sewing machine at high speed.
Safety is very important in Sewing. To make sure
that everyone can learn and have fun in a safe
environment, keep the following rules in mind:
1. ALWAYS: Place your coats, books and bags in
separate places, away from your sewing area.
2. ALWAYS: Leave your shoes on during sewing
class. You do not want to accidentally step on
a pin or needle.
3. ALWAYS: Look under your fabric before
cutting with scissors and carry scissors with
the sharp edge pointing towards the floor.
When the scissors are not being used, place
them on the cutting table, sewing table, or in
your sewing box.
4. ALWAYS: Measure the thread to the length of
your arm.

v Take care not to machine over pins.

5. ALWAYS: Thread the needle with caution

v Make sure the take-up lever is in the upper

before starting to sewing on your fabric.
6. ALWAYS: Remove the pins from your fabric
most position before pulling out the fabric and
as you sew and place them in the pin cushion
cutting threads.
after you use them. NEVER put straight pins
MAINTENANCE or needles in your mouth.
7. ALWAYS: Place the iron in the upright
Oiling
v Keep the sewing machine well oiled. Oil it
position after use. When using the iron hold
it by the handle only.
every 8 -10 hours of actual sewing or once a
month or when you are sewing after the 8. ALWAYS: Let your teacher/trainer help you
machine has not been used for a few months. use the seam ripper (unpicker).
Be sure not to over oil. After oiling, sew a few 9. ALWAYS: Place your seam gauge, ruler,
stitches on a small swatch of fabric to observe scissors and pins in the sewing box after
any excess before beginning your project. using them.
10. ALWAYS: Listen to the teacher’s/trainer’s
Cleaning
v Along with oiling; it is important to keep the
instructions.
machine as free of lint (fine fibres which
separate from cloth or yarn during processing)
as possible. Remove needle plate to clean lint
from the feed dogs, under the needle plate,
and in the shuttle area of the bobbin. Do not
use “canned air’ to clean your machine as this
may push debris further into the machine.

Shining
v Wipe the surface of the machine with a clean
soft, damp cloth. Do not use abrasives on your
machine and do not place pieces of tape on it.
Seam guides can be purchased from the shops
or the dealer. Clean the LMD screen with a
soft, damp cloth and never use alcohol or
solvent on the machine.

Storage
v Avoid exposing the sewing machine to extreme
temperatures. Do not store it in a room that is
cold, hot or humid. Cover the machine when
not in use to keep and lint to a minimum.

EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - SKILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT 15

 Learning to Sew

Acknowledgement

This short course module, developed in Papua New Guinea, is based on the competency-based training
model.
The Skill Training Resource Unit (STRU) of Employment Oriented Skills Development Project (EOSDP)
in conjunction with Department (TVET) division and the implementing agency Department for
Community Development Services wish to express their thanks to the people who have contributed in
producing the module.
We hope it will provide basic knowledge and skills for the informal and the formal sectors especially the
women, men and the youth to be employed or self-employed through having better skills for tomorrow.

16 EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - SKILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT

p o box 1097, waigani
national capital district
papua new guinea.

tel: (675) 323 2633

fax: (675) 323 0944

The development of this short course was

sponsored by the ADB-PNG
EMPLOYMENT SKILLS DEVELOPMENT
PROJECT (EOSDP) and produced by
curriculum officers at the SKILLS
TRAINING RESOURCES UNIT (STRU)